rachel khoo's kitchen not: over 100 delicious recipes from my personal cookbook
TRANSCRIPT
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RachelKhoo
RACHEL KHOO ’S KITCHEN NOTEBOOK
Over100deliciousrecipesfrommypersonalcookbook
PhotographybyDavidLoftusIllustrationsbyRachelKhoo
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Contents
Introduction
Starters
Mains
Sweets
HomemadeTreats
Equipment
Cook’sNotes&Ingredients
Acknowledgements
FollowPenguin
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Icarryanotebookeverywhere,anditalmostalwaysendsuptattered,dog-earedandsplashedwithvariousfoodstainsfromeatingmywayaroundtheworldorcookinginmykitchen.Therecipes,illustrations,kitchentitbitsandtipsthatendupinmynotebookareallsomethingthatIwantedtoshare.Recipesthatreflectbothmyculinarypastandmypresent,theplacesI’vebeen,mykitchenexperiences…abookthattellsastoryofhowIcookinthekitchen.
Afterwritingtwocookbooksthatchronicledmyexplorationoflacuisinefrançaise,Ifeltitwastimetoshowmytruecolourswiththisbook.MychildhoodplayedabigpartinformingmyculinaryDNA,buttheexperiencesandculturesI’veexposedmyselftoinmyadultlifehavealsobeenformativeinthewaymycookingstylehasevolved.Thelastseveralyearshavebeenpackedtighterthanatinofsardineswithadventuresclosetohomeandbeyond.I’vevisitedaneclecticrangeofplaces,fromtheScandi-coolStockholmandthefragrantdelightsoftheEastinIstanbul,totheslightlyrough-around-the-edgesNaples,aswellasrediscoveringmyhometown,London,withitsvibrant,energeticfoodscene.
EventhoughI’velivedinParisforeightyears,Iamnot‘thatFrenchwomanoffthetelly’,asI’vefrequentlybeendescribedsincetheLittleParisKitchenTVshowaired.I’mquiteproudlyBritish(despitethemanyyearsofBritishfoodbashingIenduredinFrance),withacolourfulculinaryheritage,thankstomyMalaysiandadandAustrianmum.LivinginBavariaasateenagerhasalsoplayeditspart.Mytastebudswerestimulatedfromayoungagewithspices,flavoursandsmellsfromSouth-EastAsia,sweetandheart-warmingdishesfromAustria,aswellassomeBritishclassicslikeroastbeefandYorkshirepuddings.AlthoughIhadadiverseculinaryupbringing,myparentswerenotsnobbywhenitcametofood.Theyunderstoodtheimportanceofnutritioushome-cookedfood
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andtheritualofsittingdownforamealeverydayasafamily,buttheoddfastfoodtreatorTVdinnerwasstillallowed.Mymumhasalwaysbeenasavvyshopper,neverwastingathingandever-inventivewithleftovers.Ourso-called‘leftoversnight’,acommonthingathome,wouldoftenlooklikethefoodieequivalentofaUnitedColoursofBenettoncommercial,withschnitzel,shepherd’spie,rendangcurryandstir-friedriceallonthetableatthesametime.WhenIlookback,Ithinkmyparentswereunintendedfoodievisionarieswiththeirleftoverfusionfood.EatingAustriandumplingsoupwithsomecharsiuroastedporkandpickledchillieswasnotunusualintheKhoohousehold,andthiswasbackintheeighties,longbeforeKoreantacosorkebabpizzawerethenorm.
Icomefromacreativebackground.Ispentfouryearsatartcollege,workingonprojectswherethemainobjectivewastocommunicateanideathroughaparticularmedium,inmycasegraphic/webdesignandphotography.Iwasinitiallydrawntofoodbecauseit’sawayofexpressingmycreativitywithanaddedtastybonus.SinceIstartedwritingcookbooks,IfeellikeIhavehitthejackpot.Itcombinesmanyofmypassions:creativity,socializingandeating!
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ThewayIgoaboutcreatingarecipebookissimilartothecreativepracticeIlearntatartcollege.Justlikeanartproject,itallstartswithhands-onresearch,initialideasscribbledinmynotebook,whichevolveintoexperimentsandthenthefinalpiece.Iliketotravel,tomeetpeople,toexperiencethefood,theculture,theflavours,sights,soundsandsmellsfirst-hand,gatheringtheinspirationandresearchtofeedmybrainandtummywithideas.Thoseideasendupbeinganinitialscribbleandsketchinmynotebook.Then,whenitcomestotakingthesketchfromconcepttorecipecreation,chaosensuesinthekitchen,withpots,pansandmanyingredientsbeingthrownaround.Moreoftenthannot,therecipedoesnotturnoutquitethewayIimaginedonpaper.However,eventhefailuresareusuallysuccesses:Imightdiscoveranewflavourcombination,ortexture,orcookingtechnique.Ifit’sreallyatotaldisaster,itultimatelyhelpsmetowriteabetterrecipe,asI’llthenunderstandbetterwhatcangowronginthekitchen.Ialwaysbelievethatfailuresarepartoftheprocess.It’showyoudealwiththemthatwilleventuallyinfluencewhetheryousucceedornot.
ThefamouscommunicationphilosopherMarshallMcLuhanoncesaidthat‘themediumisthemessage’.Acookbookhasatactileandpersonalelementthata
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mediumisthemessage’.AcookbookhasatactileandpersonalelementthatarecipeonatabletorTVshowcan’thave.Readingatabletinthebathtubisalittlemoreriskythanreadingabook.Butthisgoesbeyondthephysicalobjectforme.IthinkofarecipeasalittlesnapshotofwhatI’veexperienced,andputtingthemtogetherinabookislikecollatingapersonalculinarydiary.
It’satime-consumingprocess,butIloveeverypartofit,fromtheresearch,recipedevelopmentandwritingaboutmypersonalstories,tothephotoshoot,wherethebookbeginstotakeavisualshape.Writingabookmaystartoffasasolitaryactivity,butthemorethebookprogresses,themoreessentialitistoworkwithpeopleyouadmireandfindinspiring(moreaboutthemintheAcknowledgements).Theyallplayapartinpushingmeasafoodwriterandmakingthebookthebestitcanbe.
Myideasstartwithataste,aflavourandasketchinmykitchennotebook,thenevolvefromexperimentsinmykitchenbackintothebookandeventually(Ihope!)toyourkitchenandyourmouths.Myculinaryholygrailistofindmycookbookonyourbookshelfwithgreasyfingerprints,food-stainsplattersandyourownpersonalscribblesontherecipes.
Thisbookisacollectionofrecipesthatwereinspiredbymytravels,adventuresandfoodexperiences,whichIhope,ultimately,inspireyoutocook!
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Lightbitesorsmalldishestotantalizeyourtastebuds:that’swhatstartersareallabout.Moreoftenthannottheysetatone,showingyourguestswhatculinarydelightsawaitthemandgivingthemalittletasteofwhat’sinstore.Startersalsomakeafantasticmealforoneortwo–seemylittlesoccacakeswithratatouilleormyhotbutterandsoysaucemackerelwithchoppedsalad.IoftenoptforaselectionofstartersratherthanonemaincoursewhenIeatout.I’mneverhappywithjustoneplateoffood;Iliketotrylotsofdifferentthings–andwithsmalldishesIcanleavetherestaurantwithoutfeelinglikeIneedaforklifttrucktotakemehome.SinceIbegandevelopingrecipesforaliving,Ioftenalsofindmyselfhavingastarterasalunchorlightdinner,andsometimesevenforbreakfast…orperhapsthat’sjustmyAsianheritagecomingtolight.
Startersaren’tjustreservedforspecialoccasions.OntheContinentitisperfectlynormal,andtotallysensibleinmymind,tokickoffahomemeal–guestsornoguests,mid-weekorbrunch–withalittleappetitewhetter;it’sagreatwayofprolongingtimespentatthetabletoo.WhenIcookedforaFrenchfamily,Idiscoveredthatastartercansimplybeasliceofperfectlyripemelonwithafewribbonsofsalty,sweetBayonneham.Forsomeothereasy,quickstarters,seemypoachedfennelwithpinkprawnsandtoastedalmonds,pancontomateortheratherunusualmorcilla,eggandcrisps.
Idon’tbelieveyouneedtoservesomethingcomplexinordertowowyourguests,butifyou’relookingtopushtheboatoutthensomeofmyfavouritesaremyultra-blingsmörgåstårtaormydaintybakedgoat’scheesecigarswithmelon,radishandcucumberslaw.
Andifyou’renewtothekitchen,orhaveatendencytoburnyourfood,Ievenhavearecipeforyoutoo:myburntleekparcelswithromescosauce.It’soneofthosefewrecipesinwhichburningyourfoodisnotsomuchundesirableasasought-afteroutcome.
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ThearchipelagoaroundStockholm,withitscrystal-clearwater,crispfreshairanduntouchedscenery,capturedwhatformeistheessenceofSweden.Itisthejuxtapositionofwaterandforestthatinspiredthisrecipe,and,ofcourse,theSwedes’loveofmeatballs.Iturnedtraditiononitsheadalittle,andletthecoastinspirethesefishballs.Butthesearen’tjustanyoldfishballs.
InsteadoftakingthemoretraditionalSwedishapproachtomakingmeatballs(groundmeatorfish,rolledintoaball),I’vetakeninspirationfrommyChineseheritage.IlovethechewytextureofChinesefishballs,whichiscreatedbyslappingtheflesharound.I’vespottedoldladiesinfishmarketsinMalaysiadoingthis.Thepoundingandslammingofthefishstretchesanduncoilsthepreviouslywoundproteinstrands,whichmakesforthisunusualbouncytexture.
Forthesoup1tbspoliveoil
2knobsofbutter2onions,peeledandfinelychopped2clovesofgarlic,peeledandminced
2sprigsofthyme500gportobellomushrooms,roughlychoppedseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper500mlgood-qualitybeeforchickenstock300mlsinglecreamzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonForthefishballs(makes16)
400gcodorpollackloin,skinnedanddeboned2tbspchoppedfreshdill,plusextratogarnish½tspseasalt¼tspwhitepepper50mlwater
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Forthetopping60gwildmushrooms(suchaschanterelles,girollesorpieddemouton),brushed,torniflarge
1knobofbutter2–3knäckebröd,orryecrispbread
Heattheoilandbutterinalargepan,addtheonions,garlic,sprigsofthymeandmushrooms,thenseasonwithsaltandpepperandcookuncoveredonalowheatfor15minutes,oruntilsoft.
Inthemeantime,preparethefishballs.Patthefishdrywithkitchentowel.Inafoodprocessor,blendthefishtoasmoothpastewiththedill,saltandpepper.Addabout40mlofthewaterandkeepblending.Checktheconsistencyandaddasmuchwaterasneededtobindintoapaste;youwantittobepaste-likebutnottoowettoformintoballs.
Nowit’stimetostartslappingyourfish.Takethemixtureinyourhandsandkeepslappingitdownonacleanworksurface,foraminuteortwo.Asthemixtureisthrowndownmoreandmore,youwillnoticeabouncedevelopinthetexture.
Dividethemixtureinto16andshapeintosmallballs.Ifyoufinditeasier,wetyourpalmsbeforerollingthemixtureintoneatballs.Placeonacleanplate.
Addthestocktoyourmushroomsandleavetosimmerforafurther10minutes,uncovered.Addthecream.Removeanddiscardthethymestalksandwhizzupthesoupwithahandblender.
Fillamediumsaucepanwithwater,bringittotheboilanddropthefishballsintocookfor3minutes,oruntiltheyfloattothetop.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetaside.Frythewildmushroomsinafryingpanwiththebutterfor2–3minutes,thensetaside.
Finishoffthesoupbystirringinthelemonjuiceandtastingforseasoning.Dividethesoupbetweenbowls,adding4fishballstoeach.Garnishwithsomeshardsofknäckebrödascroutons,somefreshdillandlemonzest.Scattersomeofthesautéedwildmushroomsontopofeachbowl.
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TipSoakthebowlofyourblenderorfoodprocessorimmediatelyaftermakingthefishpaste,asithasatendencytostick!
GetaheadYoucanmakethesoupadaybefore.Thefishballscanbeformedthedaybeforeserving,storeinanairtightcontainerandcookjustbeforeserving.
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TheNiceareatendstoproducegoat’scheeseratherthancheesemadefromcow’smilk,asthelandscapeistooruggedandroughforcowstograze.Eatinggoat’scheesefromthisregionreallycapturestheflavoursoftheterroir.Goatsgrazeonwhatevergrows,fromwildherbslikeoreganoandthymetoberries,andtheseflavourssubtlyinfluencetheendproduct.Thesemakeadelectablesummerstarteroranaperitifwithaglassofrosé,showcasingtheflavoursofProvence.
1–2rectangularfilosheets(dependingonthesizeofyoursheets)60gbutter,melted8sprigsofthyme,leavespicked125gsoftgoat’scheese4tsphoney(lavenderifpossible)Fortheslaw
1smallcucumberor½aregularcucumber½unripegaliamelon,seedsremoved6radishes,trimmedandslicedintothinroundsForthedressing
1tbspextravirginoliveoil½tbspredwinevinegarseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper,totaste
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).
Unrollasheetoffilohorizontallyonyourworksurface.Cutthefilosheetinhalflengthwaysandinhalfcrosswaystomake4rectanglesmeasuringapproximately15cm×20cm.Laythemalloutontheworksurface,thenbrushtherectanglesgenerouslywithbutter,ensuringthatabout1tablespoonissavedtobrushthetops.
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Sprinklesomethymeleavesalongthelonglengthofeachpastryrectangleandfolditinabout2cmtoencasethem.Crumblealineofgoat’scheeseinalinealongtheoppositeshortsideofthepastry.Drizzlethehoneyalongthegoat’scheeseoneachpastry.Startingatthegoat’scheeseend,rollthepastryoverthecheeseandallwaytothethyme,sealingthejoin.Repeattheprocesstomake4cigars.
Placeonalinedbakingtrayandbrushagainwiththeremainingbutter.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgoldenandcrisp.
Inthemeantime,makethesaladbyusingamandolinorspeedpeelertojuliennethecucumberandthemelonflesh.Placethemallinabowlwiththeradishes.Putthedressingingredientsintoasmallbowlorjamjarandmixwell.
Oncethecigarsarecooked,tossyoursaladwiththedressingandplaceinthecentreofyourplate.Servewiththecigarsontop.
TipsFilosheetsdryoutreallyquickly.Besuretostoretheminclingfilm.Begentlewhenbrushingthesheetsastheycanteareasily.
Youcanflavourthegoat’scheesewithanydriedherbsorspices,forexamplecayennepepper,smokedpaprika,groundcuminorchilli,alsotryaspoonfulofyourfavouritechutneyorcaramelizedonionsinplaceofthehoney.
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Oneofthegreatthingsabouttapasisthattheycanbewhippedupinaflash.Thisspeedylittlestewisathomeonatableladendownwithaselectionoftapas,orserveitfortwoandhaveatastymealinminutes.
8springonions
1tbspoliveoil1tbspfinelychoppedfreshrosemaryleaves
1tspsmokedsweetpaprika400gtinofcookedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed(drainedweight250g)
2chorizocookingsausages1×400gtinofcherrytomatoes
2tbspsherryvinegar
Chopthespringonionsintorounds,separatingthewhiteandgreenparts.Puttheoilintoalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Addthewhitepartofthespringonions,therosemary,smokedpaprikaandchickpeastothepanandfryfor2minutes.
Slicethechorizointo1cmrounds,addtothepanandcookfor2minutes.Addthesherryvinegar,turndowntheheatandcookgently,uncovered,forafurther5minutes,stirringoccasionally.
Addthetinnedtomatoesandcookforafurther10minutes.Tasteforseasoning,andadjustifnecessary.
Finishthestewoffwiththegreentopsofthespringonions,justbeforeserving.
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Finishthestewoffwiththegreentopsofthespringonions,justbeforeserving.
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OK,soitsoundsalittleoutthere,butthistastytapaisnotascrazyasyoumightthink.UnliketheBritishrelationshipwithcrisps,wherewemightstopbythecornershopforasneakybagofWalker’s,there’salong-standingtraditionofhandmade,freshlyfriedcrispsinSpain.IatethisdishinatapasbarinBarcelona;Ilovedtheideathatyoucanpimpupabagofcrisps,soIhaverecreatedithere.
100gbagofready-saltedcrisps150gmorcilla,skinremoved1tbspoliveorrapeseedoil
3eggs
Emptyyourbagofcrispsintoaservingdish.
Roughlycrumbleorchopthemorcilla.Heatalargenon-stickfryingpananddry-frythemorcillafor3–4minutesbeforescatteringitoverthecrisps.
Addtheoiltothefryingpan,heat,andcracktheeggsinonebyone.Cookfor2–3minutes,untilthewhiteissetbuttheyolkisstillrunny(putalidorplateoverthepantospeeditup).
Placethefriedeggsoverthemorcillaandbreakthemupwithyourforktoeat.
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WhenevertherearemezzebeingservedinTurkey,asmalldishoftzatzikiislikelytoappear.It’sasimpleblendofcucumber,garlicandcreamyyoghurt,buteachfamilyandrestaurantwillhavetheirownsecretmethodandratio,makingittheirsignature.
InmyviewtheperfecttzatzikiismadeusingacrunchyLebaneseorridgecucumberwiththeseedsscoopedout;saltingitinacolanderalsodrawsoutthemoisture.Pomegranateseedsaretheperfectwaytopimpupanydish,savouryorsweet,andtheyaddanexceedinglysatisfyingcrunch.
8razorclams½alemon75gGreekyoghurt1smallcloveofgarlic,peeledandmincedapinchofseasalt½aLebanesecucumberorridgecucumber,peeled
4tbsppomegranateseeds
Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Setupalargebowloficedwaternearby.Drop4razorclamsintotheboilingwater,thenfishthemoutalmostimmediatelywithapairoftongsanddropthemstraightintothecoldwater.Theyshouldopenbutnotcook.Repeatwiththeremainingclams.
Pulltheclamsoutoftheirshellsandprepthem:useapairofscissorstocuttheblacksacoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsinto
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blacksacoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsintothumbnail-sizedpieces.Puttheclamsintoabowlandsqueezealittlelemonjuiceoverthetop.Washanddry8half-shellsandsetaside.
Mixtogethertheyoghurt,garlic,saltandasqueezeoflemontotaste.Placeinadisposablepipingbagorfoodbagandsniptheendoff.
Cutthecucumberinhalflengthwaysandscoopouttheseeds.Cutintofinejuliennestripsonamandolinorbyhand.
Put2or3blobsofthegarlicyoghurtalongahalf-shell.Puttheclampiecesinbetweentheblobsofyoghurt.Garnishwithalittlecucumberandscattersomeofthepomegranateseedsover.Repeatwiththeremaininghalf-shells.
TipAgoodwaytotellifyourclamsarefreshistoticklethefoot,whichshouldretractstraightaway;ifthereisnosignoflife,don’tbuythem.
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OnthePrinces’IslandsinTurkey,seafoodisastaple.Midyedolma–musselsstuffedwithrice,pinenuts,currantsandspices–aresoldonthebeachfront,andservedastheinspirationforthislittlemezzeofmine.‘Mezze’meanstaste,flavour,snackorrelish,whichisliterallyhowtheseareintendedtobeserved–astasters,alongsideotherlittledishes.Butdon’tthinkyouhavetomakelotsofcomplicateddishesforasuccessfulspread;simplyusingonemainingredientandvaryingitwithsomesidesorgarnishesisalessfussysolution.Thisstuffed-clamrecipepairsperfectlywiththerazorclamswithtzatzikiandpomegranate.
50guncooked(or100gcooked)brownrice
8razorclams2tbspoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling1smallonion,peeledandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced8cherrytomatoes,roughlychopped1smallredchilli,deseededandfinelychopped
1tbspredwinevinegar1smallredRomanopepper,deseededandfinelychopped1tbspdriedmint
2sprigsofparsely
Cookthericeaccordingtopacketinstructions.Drainandleavetocoolundercoldrunningwater,thendrainagain.Preheatthegrill.
Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Setupalargebowloficedwaternearby.
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Drop4razorclamsintotheboilingwater,thenfishthemoutalmostimmediatelywithapairoftongsanddropthemstraightintothecoldwater.Theyshouldopenbutnotcook.Repeatwiththeremainingclams.
Pulltheclamsoutoftheirshellsandprepthem:useapairofscissorstocuttheblacksackoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsintothumbnail-sizedpiecesandputthemintoabowl.Washanddry8half-shellsandsetaside.
Putatablespoonofoilintoalargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addtheonion,garlic,tomatoesandchilli,andfryforabout15minutes,oruntilthetomatoesandonionsaresoftbutnotbrown.Blend(ahandblenderinasmalljugworkswellhere)withtheredwinevinegartoasmoothpaste.
Wipethefryingpanandpourinatablespoonofoiloveramediumheat.Addthebrownriceandfryforabout10minutes,oruntilgoldenandcrisp.Addtheclamsforthelastcoupleofminutes.
Spreadsomeofthesauceonthebottomofahalf-shell,followedbysomeofthecrispyriceandclamsandRomanopepperpieces.Sprinklewithalittledriedmintandparsley,anddrizzlewitholiveoil.Repeatwiththeremaininghalf-shells.
TipSeehere.
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InBrittanytheyhavecrêpesandgalettes(buckwheatpancakes),butinNicetheyhavesocca.It’sasortofpancakemadefromchickpeaflour,whichisbakedinawood-firedovenandhasacrispy,slightlyblistered,charredcrust.Athomeit’salittledifficulttorecreatethatsmokyflavour(unlessyouhappentohaveawood-firedoven),butit’sworthmakingnevertheless.
Fortheratatouille2clovesofgarlic,peeledandminced1onion,peeledandfinelychopped1tspfreshthymeleaves
3tbspoliveoil1aubergine,thinlysliced1smallcourgette,thinlysliced1yellowpepper,thinlysliced6tomatoes,cutintoquartersapinchofsugarseasalt
Fortheanchovysauce10anchovies(1×50gtinofanchoviesinoliveoil)2tbspextravirginoliveoiloroilfromtheanchovytinzestandjuiceof½anunwaxedlemon30mlwaterForthesocca200gchickpeaflour(alsoknowasgramflour)1tspdriedoregano
1tspseasalt3tbspoliveoilforthebatter,plusextraforfrying230mlwater
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).
Gentlyfrythegarlic,onionandthymeleavesin2tablespoonsofoil.Oncetheonionistranslucentandsoft,addtheaubergineandcookforaround5minutes,oruntilsoft.
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Tosstheremainingvegetablesinalargeroastingtinwithatablespoonofoil,thesugarandalittlesalt.Addthecookedonionandaubergine,andmixthemtogether.Coverthetraywithfoilorbakingpaper,thenbakefor1hour.
Inthemeantime,makethesauceinafoodprocessorbywhizzingtogethertheanchovies,oil,lemonzestandjuice,andwater.Thesauceshouldbetheconsistencyofdoublecream,soaddalittlemorewaterifnecessary.Setaside.
Nowpreparethesocca.Whiskthechickpeaflour,oreganoandsaltwiththeoilandwater.Put1teaspoonofoilintoanon-stickfryingpanoveramedium-highheat,thenladleabout3tablespoonsofbatterintoacircle,creatingan8cm-diameterpancake.Cookfor1minuteoneachside,oruntilgolden.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.
Dividethesoccabetweentheplates,thenaddagenerousheapofratatouille,followedbyadrizzleoftheanchovysauce.
TipBesuretogetthepanniceandhotforthesocca.
GetaheadThesoccacanbemadeinadvance,andkeptwrappedinclingfilm.Reheatintheovenat160°C(fan)for20minutes.
Youcanalsomaketheratatouilleinadvanceandreheatitintheovenat160°C(fan)for20minutes.
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Thisrecipeislooselyinspiredbythephenomenal‘meatfruit’atHestonBlumenthal’sLondonrestaurant,Dinner.Themostperfectlyglossymandarinarrivesatthetable,whichyoucutopentorevealasilkychickenliverandfoiegrasparfait.
Forthechickenliverparfait50gsaltedbutter1shallot,peeledandthinlysliced2clovesofgarlic,peeledandcrushed
2sprigsofthyme125gchickenlivers,trimmed
1tbspbrandy½tspseasalt¼tspfinelygroundpepperForthejellytopping
1gelatinleaf75mlorangejuice(juiceof1orange)1tbspsugar
1smallorangeorclementineFortheoatcakes
50grawbeetroot(approx.½abeetroot)30goats70gplainflour½tspbakingpowder½tspseasalt½tbspsugar50gbutter,meltedandcooledEquipment
a5cmcookiecutter1×250mlcliptopjarorramekin
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Meltasmallknobofthesaltedbutterinalargepanandaddtheshallot,garlicandthyme.Cookonalowheatfor5minutes,oruntiltheshallothassoftenedbuthasn’tbrowned.Turnuptheheatandaddtheliversandbrandy,thencookforabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilthelivershavebrownedbutarestillslightlypinkinthemiddle.
Leavetocoolfor5minutes.Removethethyme,thenwhizztheliversinafoodprocessororblenderwiththeremainingsaltedbutterandthesaltandpepper.Dividetheparfaitmixturebetweenthesmalljarsorramekinsandsmooththetopswithaspoon.Leaveinthefridgewhileyoumakethejelly.
Soakthegelatinleafincoldwaterfor5–10minutes.Pourtheorangejuiceintoapanwiththesugar.Heatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Squeezethegelatinleafandpourawaythewater.Straintheorangejuicethroughasievedirectlyontothegelatinleaf.Stirtodissolve.
Peelthesmallorangeorclementinewithaparingknife,removingallthepith,andsliceintothinrounds.Topthechickenliverparfaitwithanorangeround,thenpourthejellymixtureontop.Leavetosetforatleast2hoursbutpreferablyovernight.
Tomaketheoatcakes,preheattheovento160°C(fan).Peelandfinelygratethebeetroot,thenplaceinabowl.Addtheoats,plainflour,bakingpowder,saltandsugar,mixwell,thenaddthecooledmeltedbutterandbringtogethertoformaball.
Rolloutwitharollingpinbetweentwosheetsofbakingpapertoabout4–5mmthick.Cutintoroundsusinga5cmcookiecutterandputonalinedbakingtray.Rolltheleftoverdoughoutagainandcutoutsomemorerounds,sothatyouhave16oatcakesintotal.Bakefor25–30minutes,thenleavetocoolonarack.
GetaheadTheparfaitcanbemade1–2daysbeforeserving.
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IstanbullieshalfinEuropeandhalfinAsiaandthatfusionhasinfluencedthelocalfoodgreatly,justlikethemixofAsiansoysauceandEuropeanbutterthatsittogetherhappilyinthisdish.
MackereliseverywhereinIstanbul,whetherit’satthefishmarket,sofreshit’sstillfloppingaround,orbeingflippedoveronahotgrillonastreetfoodstand.It’scheapandverynutritious,richinomega3.
100gunsaltedbutter
Forthesalad
2tbspwhitewinevinegar½aredonion,peeledandthinlysliced1smallLebanesecucumberor½aregularcucumber,peeled5mediumtomatoes,quartered1tbspfinelychoppedfreshdillapinchofseasalt
1tbsppomegranatemolassesForthemackerel2tspchoppedfreshthymeleaves
1tspdriedmint4mackerelfillets,debonedbutskinlefton30mllightsoysauceortamariEquipmentacheeseclothormuslin
Startbyclarifyingthebutter.Heatitinasaucepanoveraverylowheat,untilit’smelted.Letitsimmergentlyuntilthefoamrisestothetop.Oncethebutterstopssplutteringandnomorefoamseemstoberisingtothesurface,removefromtheheatandskimoffthefoamwithaspoon.
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heatandskimoffthefoamwithaspoon.
Lineameshsievewithacheeseclothormuslinandsetthesieveoverabowl.Carefullypourthewarmbutterthroughthesieveintothebowl,leavingbehindanysolidsfromthebottomofthepan.Discardthemilksolidsleftinthecheesecloth.
Meanwhile,putthewhitewinevinegarintoasmallbowl,addtheredonionandleavetosoak.Deseedthecucumber,cutintosmallcubesandputintoalargebowl.Addthetomatoesanddill,sprinklewiththesaltandmixtogether.
Mixtogetherthethymeleavesanddriedmint.Heatalargenon-stickfryingpanandput1tablespoonoftheclarifiedbutterintothepan.Whenthepanissmokinghot,addthemackerelfilletsskinsidedown.Cookfor2minutesbeforeturningoverandcookingforanother2minutes.
Addthesoysaucetotheremainingclarifiedbutter.Drizzlethefishwiththesauceandsprinklewiththeherbmix.Tosstheonionwiththeothersaladingredientsandthepomegranatemolasses.
Servethemackerelonabedofsalad.Drizzleoveratablespoonofthecookingjuicesontoeachmackerelfillet.
TipIfyoucan’tfindpomegranatemolasses,useamixtureoflemonjuiceandhoneyinstead.
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Iloveasalad,andIoftenwishsaladsgotalittlebitmoreattentionasthehighlightofameal.Theyarealltoooftenseenasdietfood,carelesslypulledfromabagandtossedwithabottleddressing,butthat’snothowit’sdoneinmyhome.
Makingagreatsaladisallaboutbeingcreativewithyourpresentation.Don’tjustsliceorchop;playaroundwithdicing,makingribbons,batons…Differenttexturesandtemperaturesarealsokeytoagreatsalad.Crunchy,soft,creamy,hotandcold:don’tbeafraidtomixitup.Icertainlyhaven’twithmyEnglishgardensalad.
1tspcastersugar6tbspwhitewinevinegar
2tbspwater1redonion,peeledandthinlysliced2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1cmcubes8rashersofsmokedbackbacon,finelychopped1smallcucumberor½aregularcucumber300gcottagecheese(seehere,orshop-bought)8tbspcrèmefraîcheorGreekyoghurtasmallbunchoffinelychoppedchivesapinchofseasalt½tspfreshlygroundpepper8radishes,thinlysliced
2handfulsoffreshpeas2handfulsofsaladleaves,washed
Dissolvethesugarinthevinegarandwaterinasmallbowl.Addhalftheoniontothebowlandmix.
Placethecubesofpotatoinamediumsaucepan.Coverwithsaltedcoldwater,bringtotheboil,thensimmerforabout5minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.
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bringtotheboil,thensimmerforabout5minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.
Putthebaconintoalargenon-stickfryingpanonamediumheat.Fryfor2minutes,thenaddtheotherhalfoftheonionandcookinthebaconfatfor10minutes.Addtheparboiledpotatoesandcookforaround5–7minutes,oruntileverythingislightlygolden,stirringoccasionallysoeverythingbrownsevenly.
Meanwhile,peelribbonsfromonehalfofthecucumberwithaspeedpeeler.Cuttheotherhalfintosmallcubes.
Mixthecottagecheesewiththecrèmefraîche,chives,saltandpepper.Tasteandaddmoreseasoningifdesired.Draintheonionfromthepicklingliquid.
Toassemble,spreadthecottagecheesemixtureontofourplates.Dividethehotpotatoandbaconmixbetweentheplates,followedbythecubesandribbonsofcucumber,radishslices,freshrawpeasandsaladleaves.Placesomeofthepickledonionontop,andserveimmediately.
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Driedpulsesandlegumes(e.g.chickpeas,lentilsandharicotbeans)seemtobeamongthoseitemsthatareboughtonaspur-of-the-momenthealthwhim,butthenlieforgottenatthebackofthestorecupboardforacoupleofyears.
Blowoffthedustandmakeadeliciousdishlikethisharicotbeansalad.It’scheapandnutritious,andmakesasurprisinglytastyalternativetobog-standardroastpotatoesasasidedishformyProvençalroastchicken.
200gdriedharicotbeans2tbspredwinevinegar
3tbspextravirginoliveoilapincheachofseasaltandsugar1smallredonion,peeledandfinelychoppedahandfulofchoppedchivesfreshlygroundpepper
Soakthedriedharicotbeansinalargebowlofcoldwaterovernight,orforabout8hours.Drainthebeansandplaceinalargesaucepanwithplentyofcoldwatertocover.Bringtotheboil,skimmingoffanyscumthatcomestothesurface,andcookfor1–1½hours,toppingupthewaterwithjust-boiledwaterifnecessary.Whenthebeansaretender,drainthroughacolanderandsetaside.
Makethedressingfortheharicotsalad.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheredwinevinegarwiththeoil,saltandsugar.Addtheredonionandtossinthewarmharicotbeans.
Sprinklewiththechoppedchivesandpepper,andserve.
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Sprinklewiththechoppedchivesandpepper,andserve.
TipsThesaladcanbemadeinadvanceandservedatroomtemperature.Whenseeingifthebeansarecooked,checkafewdifferentonesastheycancookatdifferentspeeds.
Ifyoudon’thavetimetosoakthebeans,tinnedbeansareagoodalternative.Rinsethemwellbeforeusing.However,whentossingtheminthedressing,dosogentlyastheytendtobesofterthanthehome-cookedvariety.Theequivalentquantityforthisrecipeisabout2×400gtinsofcookedharicots(drainedweightapprox.460g).
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‘…everytimeachildsays,“Idon’tbelieveinfairies,”thereisafairysomewherethatfallsdowndead,’Peterreplies.
That’showIfeeleverytimeajournalistasksmewhatmyfavouritedishis.OK,maybecomparinganinterviewquestiontothedeathoffairiesisalittledramatic,butIdowanttosigheverytimeI’maskedthis.Howcanyouasksomeonewholovesfoodwhattheirfavouritedishis?It’slikeaskingCarriefromSexandtheCitywhatherfavouritepairofshoesis:it’simpossibletoanswer.WhatIfancyeatingdependsona)whattheweatherislike;b)whereIam;andc)thestateofmyfridge.
TherecipesI’vecrammedintothischapteraretheresultofvariousdifferentcravingsorscenarios.Onahotsummer’sday,trymychickensummersalad.Whenyouneedaquickdinnerbuthavehardlyanythinginthefridge,mycourgettelinguine,withthreedifferentsaucestopickfrom,isperfect.Whenyou’dliketoimpressthein-laws,there’smyvenisonsteakwithceleriacpurée,pickledblackberriesandcarrotpetals.Ifyou’reentertainingabunchofmates,myseafoodchilliwithtortillabowls.Foraveggie,low-carbdinner,mystir-friedcauliflowerrice.Forasimple,everydaydinnerforthefamily,myProvençalroastchickenwithroastedfennel;orforacomfortingTVdinnertokickbackwith,mypeepingmushroompasta.
AnotherquestionI’moftenaskediswhatyoushouldcookforaromanticmeal.Myanswer:don’t.Well,notonyourfirstdate,oryoursecond,andpossiblynotevenonyourthird.Nervesarenotwhatyouneedwhenyou’reslavingoveramealandtryingtolookyourbest.Trustme:havingworkedinprofessionalkitchens,Iknow.However,ifyou’rebeyondtheinitialawkwarddatingstage,thena)doyourhomeworkandaskyourdatewhattheydoordon’tlike(Ilearntthislessonthehardwayafterservingmeattoaveggie);b)keepitsimple;andc)don’tservetoomuchfood(asthiswillmakeyousleepy…yougetmydrift).Afewdishestohelpyouwithyourromanticencounters:myspeedysummerbolognese,myone-trayroastormymushroomstroganoffwithspinachandwildrice.
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Whateveryourappetite,there’sarecipesuretosatisfyit.
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BackwhenIwasakid,breakfastfordinnerwasfarmorederigueur,whetheritwasasneakyfry-up,beansontoast,orkippers.Thisisafancyversionofafry-up.Herethepillowypotatocrumpetsstandinforthemoretraditionalheavyhashbrowns,whiletheblisteredtomatoesareaspeedyandfreshsubstituteforketchup.
170mlmilk100–110mlwater160gpotatoflour80gplainwhiteflour7gfast-actionyeast250gcherrytomatoesonthevineseasalt½tspbakingpowder4–6tbspsunflowerorvegetableoil2largegammonsteaks(450gintotal)2tspEnglishmustard2tspmaplesyrup
4eggsEquipmentan8cmcookiecutter4×9cmpastryrings
Warmthemilkandwatergentlyinasmallsaucepan.Putthefloursandyeastintoabowlandmixwell.Addthemilkandwaterandwhiskuntilsmooth.Itwillbetheconsistencyofsinglecream.Coverwithclingfilmandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor1–2hours,oruntilbubbleshaveformedonthesurface.
Preheattheovento200°C(fan).Putthetomatoesonalinedbakingtray,sprinklewithsaltandplaceintheovenfor10minutes,oruntiltheyhaveburst.Setasideandturntheovendownto160°C.
Whisk½teaspoonofsaltandthebakingpowderintothecrumpetbatter.Puta
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Whisk½teaspoonofsaltandthebakingpowderintothecrumpetbatter.Putaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatandpourin2tablespoonsofoil.Oilapastryring,placeitinthepanandpour80mlofbatterintoit.Turntheheatdowntomedium-lowandcookfor5minutesorso,oruntilthesurfacehasjustsetandbubbleshaveformed.Removetheringandflipthecrumpetover.Cookfor2–3minutes,oruntilgoldenontheotherside.
Repeatwiththeremainingbatter;thisshouldmake5crumpetsintotal.Setasideonawirerack.
Putanothertablespoonofoilintoalargefryingpanandheatuntilmedium-hot.Addthegammonsteaksandcookfor1–2minutesononeside.Flipthemoverandfryfor1moreminute.Spreadthetopswiththemustard,thenthemaplesyrup,andslideoutofthepan.Usethe8cmcookiecuttertocutout4piecesfromthegammonsteaks.Keepwarmonabakingtrayintheovenwhileyoumaketheeggs.
Oilthepastryringsonceagain.Putatablespoonofoilinthepan,cracktheeggsintotherings,andfrytheeggsfor2–3minutes,oruntilthewhitehasset.Toserve,dividethepotatocrumpetsbetween4plates.Putagammonsliceandfriedeggontopofeachone,anddrapethevinetomatoesoverthem.
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Brisketisafattyandgreat-valuecutfromthefrontundersideofthecow.Itismostcommonlyusedtomakepastramiandsaltbeef,whichhasseenquiteacomebackinrecentyears.Formany,however,ithasalwaysbeenonthemap,particularlyforfanslikemyselfwhomakearegularpilgrimagetoBeigelBakeonBrickLanefortheirexemplarysaltbeefbagelswithlashingsofEnglishmustard.
1kgpieceofbeefbrisket1onion1carrot1stickofcelery1bayleaf5blackpeppercornscornichonsorslicedgherkins,toserveForthebrine
100glightbrownmuscovadosugar150gcoarseseasalt1tspblackpeppercorns4juniperberries,lightlybruised2staranise4cloves3bayleaves
1.5litreswaterForthedillvinaigrette10gfreshdill4tbspsunfloweroil4tbspwhitewinevinegar1tspseasaltalargepinchofcastersugarForthemash
1kgflourypotatoes(e.g.MarisPiperorKingEdward)2knobsofbutter100–200mlmilk,warmed1tbsphorseradishcreamseasalt
Placetheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepan.Bringtotheboilandsimmerfor5minutes,stirringtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Leavetocoolcompletely.
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completely.
Placeyourbeefinaplasticliddedcontainerandpourthebrineoverthetop.Makesureitisfullysubmerged(youmayhavetoweightitdownwithsomething)andplaceinthefridgeforaminimumof3daysandupto10days.Turnthemeatdaily.
Whenreadytocook,drainthebeef,discardingthemarinade,andrinseundercoldrunningwater.Placeinalargesaucepanandcoverwith3litresofcoldwater.Peelandhalvetheonion,carrotandceleryandaddtothepan,alongwiththebayleafandpeppercorns.Gentlybringtoasimmer,skimmingoffanyscumthatcomestothesurface.Poachreallygently,uncovered,for3–4hours,toppingitupwithjust-boiledwaterifnecessary.
Makethedillvinaigrettebywhizzingthedill(stalksincluded)inafoodprocessororblenderwiththeotheringredients,.Tasteandaddmoresaltifdesired.
Peelthepotatoesandboiltheminsaltedwaterfor20–25minutes,oruntiltender.Drainandputbackintothepanoveramediumheat,stirringconstantly,untildry.Oncethepotatoeshavestoppedsteaming,mashthem(apotatoricerorMouligivesthebestresults).Mixwiththebutterandaddenoughwarmmilktomakeasmooth,creamymash.Addthehorseradishcreamandalittlesalt.
Whenthesaltbeefisready,removeitfromthepanandplaceonaboard,thensliceitupthinly.Servethesaltbeef,warmorhot,withthemashonthesideandplentyofcornichonsorslicedgherkins.Drizzleoverthedillvinaigrette.
GetaheadThebeeffreezeswelloncecooked.Thevinaigrettecanbemadeadayinadvance.
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Thetraditionalrice-basedpaellahastravelledfarbeyonditsValencianbirthplace;IseegiantpaellapansbubblingawayatmylocalmarketonaSaturday.ButwhenIvisitedTocalMar,aquietnookalongtheSpanishcoast,Idiscoveredadelicious,little-knownvariationknownasfiduea,madewithvermicellinoodles.Inspiredbythisdiscovery,Idecidedtomakemyownversion,butmypaellanestsaretootantalizingasecretnottoshare.
2tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,peeled,halvedandfinelysliced1smallbulboffennel,trimmedandfinelysliced2clovesofgarlic,peeledandsliced1chorizocookingsausage,cutintothinrounds150mldrywhitewineagenerouspinchofsaffron750mlfishstock250gunshelledrawkingprawns200gcodormonkfishcheeks150gpurplesproutingbroccoli,roughlychopped,toughstalksdiscarded600gmixtureofclamsandmussels,cleanedForthevermicellinests140gricevermicellinoodles
2knobsofsoftbutterEquipmenta6-holemuffintin
Preheatyourovento200°C(fan).Puttheoilintoalargeliddedpanandsweattheonion,fennelandgarlicoveralowheatfor10minutes.
Putthenoodlesinabowl,pourboilingwateroverthem,thenleaveforabout20seconds,oruntiltheyarepliablebutstillhavebite.Drainandspreadoutonacleanteatoweltogetridofexcessmoisture.Patdrywithanotherteatoweluntiltheyarereallydry.Brushthemuffinholeswiththebutterandlinetheholeswith
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theyarereallydry.Brushthemuffinholeswiththebutterandlinetheholeswiththenoodles.Makesureyoupushthenoodlesrighttothetopofthemuffinholes,astheywillshrinkslightly.Placeintheovenfor20–25minutes,oruntilcrispandgolden.
Addthechorizototheonionmixtureandfryuncoveredfor8–10minutes,oruntilgolden.Addthewhitewineandsaffron,andsimmerforaminutebeforeaddingthestock.Bringtotheboil.Addtheprawns,fishcheeksandbroccolistalkstothepan,andstirthrough.Simmerfor1minute,thenaddtheclams,musselsandbroccolitops.Tossthroughthesauce,coverwiththelid,crankuptheheatandcookfor3minutes.
Strainthestewthroughacolanderoveralargebowl.Returntheliquidtothepanandsimmerforabout20minutes,oruntilreducedtoyourdesiredconsistency(eitherabrothorarichsauce).
Meanwhile,removesomeofthemusselsandclamsfromtheirshellsandreturntothefishandbroccolimixture,thencoverwithaluminiumfoiltokeepwarm.
Removethevermicellinestsfromtheovenanddividebetweenlargeshallowbowls.Addaladlefulloftheseafoodtoeachofthenests,thenpourthesauceoverthetop.Arrangethefishandbroccoliaroundtheedgeofthenests.
GetaheadThenestscanbemadeinadvanceandkeptinanairtightcontainerforadayortwo.
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Ifyoucookinthesamestyleasme,youprobablyvergeontheover-generoussideofportioncontrol.Somoreoftenthannotyouareleftwithplentyofleftoversinyourfridge.Ahashistheperfectwayofmakingsurenoneofthatgoestowasteandmakingleftoversgoabitfurther.IhadadeliciousoneatasmallcaféinEastLondon;itwasahamhockhashtoppedwithasunshineorangefriedegg.I’veswappedhamforsmokyhaddockandthestandardeggforsomesalmoncaviarthatpopsinyourmouth.Butfeelfreetoexperimentwithwhateverisleftinyourfridge.
1tbspoliveoil1onion,peeledandfinelychopped2mediumpotatoes,scrubbedcleanandcutinto1cmcubesapinchofseasalt150gsmokedhaddock,skinremovedandroughlychoppedblackpepper,totaste6cornichons,finelychopped3tbspcrèmefraîche1tsplemonjuice4tbspsalmoncaviar
2tbspfinelychoppedchives
Heatalargefryingpanwiththeoilandplaceoveramediumheat.Oncetheoilishot,addtheonion,potatoesandapinchofsalt.Fryonamediumheatwhilestirringeverysooftenfor20minutes,oruntiltender.Addthehaddocktothepotatoesandfryforafurther5minutes.Removefromtheheatandseasonwithplentyofblackpepper.
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Inthemeantime,mixthecornichonswiththecrèmefraîcheandlemonjuice.Dividethepotatomixbetweentheplatesanddotthecornichoncrèmefraîcheandsalmoncaviarontopofthehash.Sprinkleeachplatewithplentyofchives.
TipSmokedhaddockcanbereplacedwithothersmokedfishsuchasmackerel.Ifusingsmokedsalmonomitthecookingprocess,cutintoribbonsandgarnishontop.
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InspiredbytheclassicPotNoodle,thisrecipeisagourmetversionofthefastestoffoods.Youcanjazzupthissimplebowlofbrothandnoodleswithallmannerofmeatsandvegetables,thenaccessorizewithfreshherbs,spicesandseasonings.Hereyouhaveit:lunchin3minutes.
2–3cubesoffrozenreducedhamstock(seehere)orhotvegetablestock(don’ttopupwiththeboilingwater)15gricevermicellinoodles,brokenupandsoakedinboilingwaterfor1minute,thendrained30gsmokedtofu,sliced3freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced2babycorncobs,chopped
200mlboilingwater½asmallredchilli,deseededandsliced1tbspchoppedfreshcorianderoralfalfaandradishsprouts
2springonions,thinlyslicedoptional:apinchoftogarashi*orchilliflakesToserve
asqueezeoflimefishsaucelightsoysauce
Variation2–3cubesoffrozenreducedhamstock15gricevermicellinoodles,brokenupandsoakedinboilingwaterfor1minute,thendrained1tbsptomatopurée1tbspThaigreencurrypaste20gbroccoliflorets,blanched30groastchicken,shredded30gredcabbage,shredded
*aJapaneseseasoningwithchilli,orange,seaweedandsesameseeds
Placethehamstock,noodles,tofu,mushroomsandbabycorninthevesselyouareservingfrom,thenpourtheboilingwateroverthetop.Mixwellandaddthe
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restofthevegetables,herbsandspices.Servewithlime,fishsauceandsoytotaste.
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Allyouneedtocookthisisafryingpan.WhenIvisitedthePrinces’IslandsinTurkey,ImetaladycalledBuket,whorunsacharminglittlebohemiancafé.HerkitchenisastinyastheoneIhadinParis,butshestillmanagestorustleupdelicioustreatsforhercustomers.Shealsoprovesthatyoudon’tneedanoventomakefantasticpastries–inhercase,littlerose-shapedonesfilledwithspinach.Myversionslookmorelikesnails,andboastaheartyfillingofbutternutsquash.
oliveorvegetableoil3onions,peeledandfinelychopped350gbutternutsquash,peeledandcutinto1cmcubeszestof½anorange¼tspdriedthymeapinchofgroundcinnamonseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper100gfreshbabyspinach,washed
8largesheetsoffilopastry1egg,plus1tbspmilk,beaten,foreggwashForthespinachandcrispyspicedmincesalad
100glambmince
1tbspsumac½tspchilliflakes150gfreshbabyspinach,washedFortheyoghurtdressing
150gplainyoghurtjuiceandzestof½anorangeapinchofsugar
Put1tablespoonofoilintoalargefryingpan.Addtheonionsandfryfor5minutesbeforeaddingthebutternutsquash,orangezest,thymeandcinnamon.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thencoverandcookonalowheatfor15minutes,oruntilthebutternutistenderandtheonionsaresoft.Throwinthespinachand
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oruntilthebutternutistenderandtheonionsaresoft.Throwinthespinachandstir,coveragainandallowthespinachtowiltfor1minute.Tipthefillingontoalargeplateandsetitasidetocoolcompletely.
Unrollasheetoffilopastryhorizontallyonyourworksurface.Brushthefilowiththeeggwash,thenputanothersheetontop.Placeaquarterofthestuffinginathinlinehorizontally,about4cmfromtheedgeofthesheet,thenstartrollingthefilooverthefillingtocover.Whenyouhavealong,snake-likeroll,rollitintoaspiraltomakeasnailshape.Repeatwiththerestofthefilotomake4snailsintotal.
Put1tablespoonofoilintoalargenon-stickfryingpan.Placethefoursnailsinthepanandcookonagentleheatfor15minutes.Flipoverhalfwaythrough.Thesnailsshouldbenicelycrisponbothsides.
Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyoghurtdressingingredients,seasonwithsaltandpepperandsetaside.
Mixtogetherthemince,sumacandchilliflakes.Whenthesnailsaredone,placeonaplateandcoverwithaluminiumfoiltokeepwarm.Wipethepanandput1tablespoonofoilintothepan.Placeonaveryhighheat.Whenthepanbeginstosmoke,addtheminceandturntheheatdowntomedium-high.Mashthemincewithawoodenspoontobreakitup,andcookfor4minutes,oruntilcrisp.
Assemblebyplacingasnailonaplate,followedbyasmallheapoffreshbabyspinach.Drizzlewiththeyoghurtdressingandsprinklewiththecrispyspicedmince.Serveimmediately.
TipsWrapthesnailsreallycarefullyinclingfilmifyouaremakingtheminadvance,tostopthefilofromdryingout.
Ifyoucan’tfindsumac,replacewithsomefreshlyzestedlemonandapinchofpaprika.
Getahead
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Youcanmakethesnailsafewhoursbeforeserving,thenjustreheatintheovenat150°C(fan)for20minutes.
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Ihaveanenduringloveofporridgeanditdoesn’tstopatbreakfast.Igrewupwithsavouryporridgefordinner.Mymum,anever-so-thriftycook,madeanAsian-styleporridgeusingleftoverriceandroastchicken,spikedwithchilli,gingerandspringonions.Servingporridgefordinnermightnotbethemostobviouschoice,butpan-fryittocrispandgoldenperfectionandyou’llendupwiththemostamazingaccompanimenttoarichragù.
Fortheorangeduckragù
3ducklegsseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1tbspsunfloweroil4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced2tinnedanchovyfillets,drainedandchopped1onion,peeledandfinelychopped2carrots,peeledandroughlychopped1stickofcelery,roughlychopped150mlredwine1×400gtinofcherrytomatoes
1largesprigofrosemaryzestof1orange,removedinstripsusingavegetablepeelerForthecrispporridgewedges
200grolledporridgeoats250mlmilk350mlhotchickenstock
3tbspfinelychoppedchives60gParmesancheese,finelygrated
2tbspbutterEquipmenta20cm×20cmbakingtin,linedwithclingfilm
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Seasontheducklegswithplentyofsaltandpepper.Puttheoilintoalargeliddedsaucepanonamediumheat.Whenhot,placetheducklegsinthepan,skinsidedown,andfryfor3minutes,oruntiltheskinbeginstogogoldenandcrisp.Turnoverandcookforafurther2minutes.Removefromthepanandplaceonaplate.
Lowertheheatandaddthegarlic,anchovies,onion,carrotsandcelery.Fryuncoveredforabout5minutes,oruntiltheanchovieshavedisintegrated,thenaddthewine.Simmerfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatoes,rosemaryandorangezest.Bringbacktoasimmer,addthebrownedducklegs,thencoverandcookonalowheatforabout1½hours,oruntilthemeatistenderandfallingoffthebone.Discardtheorangezestandrosemary.Transfertheducklegstoaboardand,usingtwoforks,shredtheduckmeat,discardingtheskinandbones.Stirtheduckmeatbackintothetomatosauceandtasteforseasoning.
Meanwhile,placetheoatsinamediumsaucepanwiththemilkandstock.Leavetosoakfor10minutes,thenplaceonamedium-lowheatandbringtoasimmerwhilestirringcontinouslywithawoodenspoonorspatula.Whentheporridgeisthickandunctuous,takeofftheheat.Stirinmostofthechives(savingtherestforthegarnish),theParmesanandsomesaltandpepper,andstirwelltocombine.Pourtheporridgeintoyourlinedtinandspreadevenlyacrossthebase.Refrigerateforaminimumof30minutes.
Put1tablespoonofbutterintoalargefryingpanonahighheat.Cuttheporridgeinto4slicesandplacetheminthehotpan.Fryeachsliceonbothsides,about6–7minutesintotal,untilgolden.
Placeaporridgesliceoneachservingplateandtopwiththeragùandasprinkleofchives.
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I’mafirmbelieverinthemantra‘buttermakeseverythingbetter’,buttherearesomedayswhenIfancysomethingatouchlighter.TruetomyAsianroots,Iregularlyrustleupastir-fryfromafridgeraidofleftoverswhenIwantaquickbite;usingcauliflowerasaricesubstitutemakesthedishevenhealthier.
1smallheadofcauliflower(approx.300g),trimmedandseparatedintoflorets4springonions,whitesandgreenpartsseparatedandfinelychopped10babysweetcorn,cutintorounds1redpepper,deseededandcutintothinstrips2tbspsunfloweroil
4eggsapincheachofwhitepepperandseasalt1redchilli,deseededandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced1thumb-sizedpieceofginger,peeledandgrated30gcashewnuts,roughlychopped4tbsplightsoysauceortamari1lime,quartered,toserve
Placethecauliflowerinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetobreadcrumbconsistency.Putintoabowl,addthewhitepartsofthespringonions,thebabysweetcornandredpepper,andmix.
Placealarge(approx.26cm)non-stickfryingpanwith1tablespoonofoilonamediumheat.Cracktheeggsintoabowlandbeatwiththepepperandsalt.Pourtheeggsintothepanandswirlthepanaround,sothemixturecoversthewholebase.Cookforacoupleofminutes,oruntiltheeggsareset,thenflipoverandcookforafurther1–2minutes,oruntiljustset.Slidetheomeletteontoachoppingboard,leavetocoolslightly,thenrollupandcutinto1cm-widestrips.Setasideuntilneeded.
Puttheremainingtablespoonofoilintoawokorlargefryingpanonamedium
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Puttheremainingtablespoonofoilintoawokorlargefryingpanonamediumheat.Whenitgetshot,addthechilli,garlic,gingerandcashewnuts.Cookfor30secondswhilecontinuouslytossinginthehotoil.Addthecauliflowerrice,sweetcornandpepper.Continuetossingfor3–4minutes,untilit’snicelygolden.Addtheslicedomeletteandstirtoheatthrough,thenpourthesoysauceintothepanandtosswellbeforedividingbetweenbowls.Serveeachwithawedgeoflimeandsprinklingofthegreentopsfromthespringonions.
TipsUseateaspoontoscrapetheskinofftheginger.
Usetamariinsteadofregularsoysaucetomakethisgluten-free.
Stir-fryingisanexcellentwayofusingupanythingleftoverinthefridge,fromroastmeattoveg.
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Thatwholesomeimagethatlentilsconjureupalwaysleavesmewithasmugglowintheaftermathofeating–quiteunlikepastaorrice,whichcanleaveyoufeelingbloated.AfterlivinginFrance,there’sonlyonekindoflentilIliketoeat(callmealentilsnobifyoulike)andthat’sthePuy.Itkeepsitsshapeanddoesn’tendupmushy.Puylentilsareeasytotopwithanendlesscombinationofingredientsorcanbethrownintoasaladtogiveitsomebite.Don’tletyourlentilsgetpushedtothebackofthecupboard!
4smallbeetroots(350gintotal),peeledandcutinto2cmcubes250mlwater250mlredwinevinegar150gcastersugar4firmpears(IlikeConference),peeledbutwiththestalkon200gPuylentils100gGorgonzola,Dolcelatteorotherbluecheese50gwatercress
2tbspextravirginoliveoilseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Pourthewater,vinegarandsugarintoasmallsaucepan(thepearsshouldsitsnugly)andbringtoagentlesimmer.Stirtodissolvethesugar,thenaddthepearsandbeetroot.Takeapieceofbakingpaperlargerthanthediameterofthepan,crumpleitupandcutaholeorslitinthecentre.Placeincontactwiththeliquidandletsomeseepthroughtokeepthepaperinplace.Coverandsimmergentlyonalowheatforanhour.
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gentlyonalowheatforanhour.
Removefromtheheatandplacethepears,beetrootandalltheliquidinaseparatecontainer.Leavetocooltoroomtemperature,thenputinthefridgeandleavetopickleovernight.
Whenreadytoeat,cookthelentilsfollowingthepacketinstructions,thendrain.Removethepearsfromthecontainertoachoppingboardandtransferthebeetroottoabowl(discardtheliquidorsaveitforpicklingsomethingelse).Tossthelentilswiththebeetroot,thencrumblethebluecheeseintosmallchunksandaddthistothebowl.
Dividethemixturebetween4plates.Cuteachpearinhalfandplace2halvesoneachplate,withalittlewatercressontop.Drizzlewiththeoilandsprinklewithapincheachofsaltandpepper.
TipsIt’simportantthatthepearsarelarge,firmandnotoverripe,otherwisetheywillbecomemushyanddisintegratewhencooked.
Youcanuseanyothersoftcheese,suchasgoat’scheeseorfeta,toreplacethebluecheese.
GetaheadThelongerthepearsandbeetrootsitinthepicklingjuices,thedarkerthecolourandthestrongertheflavour.
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Iloveacolourfulplateoffood,especiallyonadrearywinter’sday.Luckily,eveninthewintermonthsyoucanaddsomecolourtoyourplatewithredchicoryandbloodoranges.Theyjusthappentobeinseasonatthesametime,andtherecouldn’tbeabettermatch.Bitterchicoryandsweet-and-sourbloodorangesarenotjusttheultimatecolourcombobutaperfectpalatepairingtoo.
4bloodoranges
2tbspextravirginoliveoil2headsofredchicory,endstrimmedandleavesseparatedseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper8scallopswithroes(removedfromthefridge15minutesbeforecooking)1tbspoliveoil
1tbspbutter20greenolives,pittedandfinelychopped
2tbspfinelychoppedchives
Topandtailtheorangeswithaparingknife,thenplaceuprightonthechoppingboardandsliceawaytheskinandpith,discardingthese.Cutbetweenthemembranestoremovetheindividualsegmentsoforange,thenplaceinabowl.Squeezethejuicefromtheremaining‘skeleton’ofthemembranesintoasaladbowl.
Addtheextravirginoliveoiltotheorangejuiceinthesaladbowlandwhisk.
Addthechicoryleaves,tosstodressandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
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Addthechicoryleaves,tosstodressandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
Peelawaythetoughcrescent-shapedtendonfromtheoutsideofthescallops.Dabthescallopswithkitchentoweltoremoveanymoisture,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepperonbothsides.
Putalargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandpourintheoliveoil.Whenthepanishot,addthescallops.Searonthefirstsidefor1–2minutes(dependingontheirsize),withoutmoving,sothattheygetanicecrust.Thenadd1tbspofbuttertothepan,flipthescallopsoverandcookfor1furtherminute,tiltingthepanonitssideandspooningthebutterover.
Scattertheleavesonaservingplateorindividualplates,followedbytheorangesegmentsandthegreenolives.Placethescallopsontopandsprinklewiththechives.
TipThescallopscanbereplacedwith150gofsalty,creamygoat’scheese.
GetaheadYoucansegmenttheorangesandmakethedressingafewhoursinadvance.
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ThereareafewthingsItrytogrowinmywindowboxes,andherbs,radishesandsaladareamust.OneyearIgrewcherrytomatoes,whichprovedsuchasuccessthatIcouldn’tpickthemquicklyenough.Myneighbourscomplainedthattomatoeswouldfallontheirheadswhentheywalkedintothemainentrancebelow.Ididn’tintendtobombmyneighbourswithtomatoes,sonowIkeepmyurbangardeningtoherbsandleafygreens,whichareeasytomaintain.Thisrecipereallyreliesonabountyofsummertomatoestobringitalive.Unliketheclassicspaghettibolognese,whichbenefitsfromaslow,gentlesimmer,thisisaquick,freshalternative.
500gmixedtomatoes(differentcoloursandsizes)1smallredonion,peeledandthinlysliced1tbspextravirginoliveoil
2tbsprapeseedoil1brownonion,peeledandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandcrushed200glamb’sliver,finelychopped8slicesofsmokedstreakybacon,finelychopped1tbspchoppedfreshthymeleaves,plusextratogarnish1tbspchoppedfreshoreganoleaves,plusextratogarnish400gspaghetti1tbsptomatopurée
3tbspredwinevinegarseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Cutthetomatoesintoquartersorhalves,dependingonthesize.Tosswiththeredonionandextravirginoliveoilandsetaside.
Puttherapeseedoil,brownonion,garlic,liverandbaconintoalargefryingpanonamediumheat.Addtheherbsandfryfor10minutes,oruntiltheonionandmeatbegintobrownnicely,stirringconstantly.
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Inthemeantime,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertotheboilandcookthepastaaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Draininacolander,settingasidesomeofthepastawater.Stirinthetomatopuréeandredwinevinegar.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
Tosstheliverandbaconwiththetomatoesandpastaandloosenwith1or2tablespoonsofthepastawater.Pourintoalargeservingdish,sprinkletheextraherbsontop,andserveimmediately.
TipTheliverandbaconcanbereplacedwithbeef,lamborporkmince.
GetaheadTheliverandonionmixturecanbemadeadayahead.Simplyreheatinapanwith1tablespoonofoil.
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Ifthere’sonethingIkeepinmyfreezer,it’snotatuboficecream:it’sarollofallbutterpuffpastry.It’sgreattohaveasabackupforallsortsofthings,fromlittleaperitifsnacksintheformoftwistedcheesestrawstotheseimmenselyversatilepuffpastrypies.
2×320gpacksofready-rolledallbutterpuffpastry(removefromfridge15minutesbeforeusing)
1egg,beaten,foreggwash
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).Unrollthepastrycarefullyfromthepaper.Cutsix10cmsquareswithalongknifeorpizzacutter,thenusetheremainingpastrytocut48stripsofpastry2cmwideand10cmlong(youmayneedtore-rollthelastpiecesforthefinalstrips).Brushthesquareswiththeeggwash,thenstickapastrystriponeachedgeofthesquarestomakeaborder.Topeachoftheborderswithanotherlayerofpastrystrips,thenbrushagainwitheggwashandplacethesquaresonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper.Putintheovenandbakefor25–30minutes,oruntilgolden,crispandpuffy.
Youcaneithermakethepiecasesatthesametimeasthefillingsbelow,ormakethecasesupto3daysinadvanceandstoretheminanairtightcontaineruntilreadytouse.Reheatfor15minutesat160°C(fan).
TipThesepuffpastrypiescanbefilledwithanythingyoufancy,aslongasthefillingisn’ttoosoggy.
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2×200gtinsofgood-qualitytuna,drained(300gdrainedweight),or2×70gfilletsofsmokedtrout,flaked100gtinnedsweetcorn,drained1tbspcapers,roughlychopped
4cornichons,roughlychopped6tbspmayonnaise(seehere)
Inasmallbowl,mixtogetherthetunaortrout,sweetcorn,capersandcornichons.Dividebetweenthepiecasesanddotthemayonnaiseonthetop.
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3smallonions,peeledandquartered6free-rangeporksausages1tbspoliveoil6mediumapples
6tspEnglishmustard
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).Placetheonionsandsausagesinalargeroastingtrayanddrizzleovertheoil,tossingtocoat.Wrapeachoftheapplesinapieceofaluminiumfoilandplaceintheroastingtray.Roastfor30–40minutes,oruntilthesausagesaregoldenandcookedthroughandtheonionsaresoft.
Removethetrayfromtheoven.Wearingacleanpairofrubbergloves,carefullyremovetheapplesfromthealuminiumfoilandmashthefleshwithafork,discardingtheskinandcore.Spread1teaspoonofmustardinthebaseofeachpiecase,anddividethemashedapplebetweenthecases.Cuteachsausageinhalfandarrangeinthebases,alongwith2onionquartersperpie.Serveimmediately.
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aknobofbutter1tbsplightbrownsugar9smallishplums
2tbsplemonjuice
Putamediumliddednon-stickfryingpanonamedium-lowheat.Putthebutterandsugarinthepanandletthemmeltfor2minutes.Cuttheplumsinhalf,gougethestoneoutifyoucan(ifyoucan’t,youcandothismoreeasilyoncetheyarecooked),andplacefleshsidedowninthepan.Cookfor5minutes,thenaddthelemonjuiceandspoonthesauceovertheplums.Placealidonthepanandcookforafurther10minutes,oruntiltheyaretenderbutholdingtheirshape.Place3halvesineachofthepiecasesandspoonoverthepanjuices.Servewithadollopofcrèmefraîche,whippedcreamoricecream.
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NormallyI’mnotonetomakemyownpasta,despitehavingboughtapastamachinemanyyearsagoonmyfirsttriptoNaples(whichwassoheavyIendeduppayingextrabaggagefees).Gettingthemachineoutandhavingtodealwithallthecleaningafterwardshasalwaysputmeoff.However,asIdiscoveredwhenIwastestingthisrecipe,makingyourownpastadoesn’thavetobehardortime-consuming.Anddon’tbeputoffbytheideaofthewholemealflour.It’snottraditional,butitworksparticularlywellwiththerobustflavourofthespinach.
500gfrozenspinachsaltandfreshlygroundpepper2tbspcrèmefraîche
4eggs50ggratedParmesancheeseorotherflavoursomehardcheese,toserveForthepastadough
100gwholemealflour,plusextratodust½tspseasalt½tspfreshlygratednutmeg1egg
1tbspwater
Mixtogethertheflour,saltandthenutmeginalargebowl.Crackin1eggandaddthewater.Bringtogetherwithaspoon,thenturnoutontoaflouredworksurfaceandkneadintoasmoothball.Wrapinclingfilmandleavetochillinthefridgefor30minutes.
Placethefrozenspinachinamediumsaucepan.Coverandcookonamediumheatfor5minutes,thenuncover.Cookforanother10minutes,untilallthe
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heatfor5minutes,thenuncover.Cookforanother10minutes,untilalltheexcessliquidhasevaporated,stirringoccasionally.Tasteandseasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper,thenstirinthecrèmefraîche.
Meanwhile,dustyourworksurfacewithflour,cutthedoughinto4partsandrolleachwitharollingpinintoaverythinpastarectangle(about20cm×14cmand1mmthick).
Bringamediumsaucepanofsaltedwatertoagentlesimmerandalargesaucepanofsaltedwatertotheboil.Crack1eggintoaramekinorglass(Ifindthismakesiteasiesttoguidethemintothewater),thenstirthewaterinthemediumpan,makingalittlewhirlpool,andpourtheeggintothecentre.Repeatwiththerestoftheeggsandleavetocookfor2–3minutes.Useaslottedspoontoremovetheeggsfromthewateranddrainonacleanteatowelorkitchentowel.Youcancutoffanystraybitsofwhiteifyouwanttotidythemup.
Plungethepastasheetsintothelargepanofboilingwaterfor2–3minutes,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddividebetween4shallowbowls.Addadollopofthespinach,followwithanegg,thenfoldthetopofthesheetbackovertoencasetheegg.SprinklewithplentyofParmesancheese.
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Shanksseemtobethechoicecutoflambingastropubsandrestaurants.Moreaffordablethanshoulder,perfectforslowcooking,theyrequireminimumeffortformaximumflavour.Lambcanbeabitofaflavourbully,dominatingadish,soyouneedsomedistinctflavourstostanduptoit.Thecherriesandredwineinthisdishformfruitynotesthatreallymellowoutthelamb.There’snotmuchtomakingit:browningthemeat,poppingtheingredientsinandlettingthemagichappeninthepot.
3tbspplainflour1tspeachseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper4lambshanks,350–400geach1–2tbspoliveoil400mlredwinesuchasPinotNoirorBeaujolais600mlchickenstock2×440gtinsofstonelesscherries,drained300gbasmatirice50gbutter1onion,peeledandfinelychopped50gpistachios,roughlychopped2sticksofcelery,finelychopped1largecarrot(200g),peeledandfinelychopped2tspcornflour
2tbspwaterahandfuloffinelychoppedfreshparsleyzestof1unwaxedlemon
Preheattheovento160°C(fan).Mixtheflour,saltandpepperinalargebowlandaddthelambshanks,dustingeachonewellintheflour.Pourtheoilintoalargeliddedovenproofcasserolepanoveramediumheatandbrowntheshanksinbatches.Pourinthewine,stock,andoneofthetinsofcherries.Bringeverythinguptotheboil,coverandputintheovenfor2hours,oruntilthemeatfeelsverytenderwhenpokedwithaknife.Removethelidandcookforafurther30minutes.
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30minutes.
Twenty-fiveminutesbeforethelambisready,starttomakethepilaf.Rinsethericeinwater,drain,thenrepeat3times.Cookthericeinalargepanofboilingsaltedwaterfor5minutesanddrainwell.
Meanwhile,putthebutterintoalargeliddednon-stickfryingpanonamedium–lowheat.Addtheonion,pistachios,celeryandcarrotandfrygentlyfor10–15minutes,oruntiltheysoften,thenstirinthepar-cookedriceandseasonwithsalt.Wrapthelidofthepaninacleanteatowelandplaceontop(theteatowelwillabsorbmoisturesothericestayscrispy).Cookfor25minutesonaverylowheat–youwantthericetocrispuponthebaseofthepan.
Putthecornflourandwaterintoasmallbowlandmixtoasmoothpaste.Removethelambshankstoaplateandwrapinfoiltokeepwarm.Pourthesaucethroughasieveintoajugtoremovethecherries(reservingthemforlater).Pourthesauceintoalargepan,thenskimoffthefatwithalargespoonandwhiskinthedilutedcornflour.Bringtoasimmerandcontinuewhiskingfor10–15minutes,oruntilthesaucecoatsthebackofthespoonandbecomesglossy.Seasonwithplentyofpepper,andsaltifneeded.Putthecherriesbackintothesauce,alongwiththesecondtinofcherries,andwarmthrough.
Toserve,fluffupthepilafwithaforkandtossintheparsleyandlemonzest.Dividebetweenplates,placeashankoneachplateandpouroversomecherrysauceandcherries.
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I’vealwayshadakeeninterestingettingtotherootsofanidea.Todiscoverthattheword‘dessert’originatesfromtheFrenchwasnosurprise,butitsetymologywasnotwhatIexpected.Itslinguisticrootscomefromthemid-sixteenth-centuryworddesservir,whichmeans‘toclearawayatable’.Backinmedievaltimes,bothsavouryandsweetdisheswouldsharethetablesimultaneously,andtheservingofadessertattheendofthemealwasnotderigueuruntilacoupleofcenturieslater.However,Ican’tthinkofabetterwayoffinishingamealthanonasweetnote,leavingyourguestsonasugarhigh.
Dessertsareinmyblood.Frommyfondchildhoodmemoriesoflickingcakebatteroffspoons,makinggingerbreadwithmymum,orsittingatmyAustriangrandma’stableandwatchingherstretchoutstrudeldough,tomyperfectingabutterypainauchocolatinParis,IfeelathomewhenI’mwhisking,folding,whippingorpiping.There’ssomethingverysoothingandsatisfyingaboutdelicatelysmoothingicingontoacakewithstrokesofyourspatula,orplacingthatlastcherryontoadesserttocompleteadish.TheskillandcraftsmanshiparewhatinitiallydrewmetostudypatisserieinParis;unlikeothersortsofcooking,thereisacertainscientificprecisiontodesserts.Toomuchbutterandthebatterspreads;toohotandthecakecracks–butdon’tletthatputyouoff.It’sveryreassuringtoknowthatifyouweighyouringredientsandfollowthemethodintherecipe,allwillgowell.Andthenthere’sthegreatpleasureinbringingthedesserttolifewiththedecoration–likethemarblingonmypistachio,yoghurtandpomegranatecake,ortheJacksonPollack-esquechocolate‘dribble’onmychocolateandcourgettefondantfancies.
Butit’snotjustabouttheeyecandy,ithastotastegoodtoo!Whetherit’scombiningclassicflavourslikecherryandchocolateintheBlackForestgâteaubowls;orunusualoneslikethoseinmyminiorangetrifleswithcandiedcarrotsordifferenttextures,suchasthecrunchandcreamyelementsintheedibleforestfloor,therecipesinthischapterwillsurprise,exciteandtickleyourtastebuds.
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Thesedelightfultartletsareeasytomake,andlookimpressivewithalittlebouquetoffreshberriesperchedontop.
2–3tbspcastersugar
175gpuffpastry150–200gfreshberries(strawberries,raspberries,blueberries),washedoptional:icingsugarForthecreamcheesefrosting90gsoftunsaltedbutter
125gicingsugar90gfull-fatcreamcheese(removedfromthefridge30minutesbeforeusing)Equipment
anon-stick6-holemuffintin
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).
Dusttheworksurfacewithhalfthecastersugarandrolloutthepastryinalandscaperectangle,roughly15cm×20cm.Dustwiththeremainingsugarandrolltherollingpinoverittopressthesugarin.Tightlyrollitup,startingfromthehorizontalsideclosesttoyou.Cuttherollinto6equal-sizedpieces,roughly3cmwide.Takeonepieceandplaceitspiralsideupinthemuffintin.Useyourthumbtopushthedoughoutwards,evenlyliningthebaseandsidesofthetin.Repeatwiththerestofthespirals.
Prickthebaseofeachonewithafork,thenlinewithsmallroundsofbakingpaperandaddceramicbakingbeanstoeach.Bakefor20minutes,thenremove
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paperandaddceramicbakingbeanstoeach.Bakefor20minutes,thenremovethebeansandbakingpaperandreturntotheovenforafurther10–15minutes,oruntillightlygoldenandcookedthrough(checkbyliftingoneoutofthetin).Removefromthetinimmediately(otherwisetheywillcaramelizeandstick),andleavetocoolonawirerackbeforedecorating.
Usinganelectrichandwhisk,beattogetherthebutterandicingsugarfor2minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Beatinthecreamcheeseuntilwellblended.
Toassemble,dollopthefrostingontoeachofthetartletbases.Decoratethetopswithberries,anddustwithicingsugarifyoulike.
GetaheadOncecooled,thebakedtartletbasescanbekeptinanairtightcontainerfor5days.Theyalsofreezewell.
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TheSwedishforestinspiresthisdessert.I’vespentmanysummersinSwedenpickingberries.Plateddessertsareacommonsightonrestaurantmenusandcanlookintimidatingtothehomecook,butit’ssimplyacaseofbringingtogetherdifferenttastes,texturesandsometimestemperaturestoworkinharmony.Hereyougetcrunchfromthemeringue,richnessfromtheganache,creaminessfromtheyoghurtandtartnessfromtheberries.It’sthecombinationoftheseelementsthatmakesthedessertwork.
100gBourbonorotherchocolatebiscuits100gblueberriesorberriesofyourchoicefreshmintleavesForthemeringuemushrooms35geggwhite(from1mediumegg)apinchofseasalt50gcastersugar
1tbspcocoapowderForthedarkchocolateganache100gdarkchocolate(70%),brokenintopieces100mldoublecreamapinchofseasalt
Forthemilkchocolateyoghurt160gmilkchocolate,brokenintopieces200gnaturalfull-fatyoghurtEquipmentpipingbagswith1cmand3–4mmnozzlesachopstick
Preheattheovento100°C(fan).Tomakethemeringuemushrooms,puttheeggwhiteandsaltintoalargeglassbowlandwhiskwithanelectrichandwhiskoruseastandingmixer.Whenreallyfrothy,graduallyaddthesugar,whiskinguntilthemeringueisthickandglossyandformsstiff,shinypeaks.
Lineanoventraywithbakingpaper.Spoonthemeringueintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cmnozzle,andsqueezeoutinto12roundmounds,2–3cmwide,tomakethemushroomcaps.Tomakeeachstem,separatelysqueezeoutabitof
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themushroomcaps.Tomakeeachstem,separatelysqueezeoutabitofmeringueontothetray,thenpullthebagstraightupsoeachonestands3–4cmhigh.Dipyourfingerinwaterandsmooththetopofthemushroomcapssothatthey’rerounded.Bakeinthecentreoftheovenfor1½hours,thenturntheovenoff.Don’tpeek.Leavethemfor2hoursorovernightuntilcompletelycoolanddriedout.
Tomakethedarkchocolateganache,placethechocolateinaheatproofbowl.Putthecreamandsaltintoasmallsaucepanandbringtoasimmer,thenpouroverthechocolate.Leavetositfor2minutes,thenstiruntilthoroughlyincorporated.Leavetocoolforabout30minutes,oruntilroomtemperature,thenspoonintoapipingbagwitha3–4mmnozzle.
Toassemblethemushrooms,useachopsticktomakeasmallholeintheundersideofeachmushroomcap.Pipeasmallamountofchocolateganacheintoeachhole,thenstickthestemsin.Dustwithatinyamountofcocoapowder.
Forthemilkchocolateyoghurt,placethechocolateandyoghurtinaheatproofbowloverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Stiruntilthechocolatehasdissolved,usingawhisktomixwell.
Toassemble,spreadalayerofchocolateyoghurtontoeachdessertplate.CrumbleovertheBourbonbiscuits,andpipedotsofthedarkchocolateganacheonrandomly.Stickafewmushroomsontop,thendotovertheberriesandmintleaves.
TipDon’trefrigeratetheganacheorthechocolateyoghurtastheywillbecometoohardtouse.
GetaheadThemeringuemushroomswithoutganachewillkeepforaboutaweekinanairtightcontainer.
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Turkishpastries,suchastheintenselysweetandextremelystickybaklava,werenothingnewtome;however,thepomegranatejuicestandsthatcroppeduponIstanbul'sstreetcornerswereadelightfuldiscovery.Thedarkredjuicemakesforarefreshingdrink,andalthoughit’sanightmareifyougetitonyourclothes,it’sperfectforcolouringicingthenaturalway.
Forthesponge2×150gpotsofnaturalyoghurt100gpistachiokernels1×150gyoghurtpotofcastersugar1×150gyoghurtpotofsunfloweroil2eggs,lightlybeaten
1tspvanillaextract2×150gyoghurtpotsofplainflour
2tspbakingpowder½tspseasalt
Fortheyoghurticing½apomegranate250gicingsugar50gnaturalyoghurt
Equipmenta20cmspringformtin,butteredandfloured
Preheattheovento160°C(fan).
Emptythecontentsoftheyoghurtpotsintoabowl,thenwashanddrythemreadytomeasuretheremainingingredients.You’llneedoneforwetingredientsandonefordryingredients.Whizzthepistachiostoafinepowderinablender.
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Putthecastersugarandoilinalargebowlorstandingmixerbowl,thenmixtogetherwithanelectrichandwhiskorthewhiskattachmentfor2minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Graduallyaddtheeggsandvanillaextract.Foldintheyoghurt,thenaddtheflour,bakingpowder,saltandgroundpistachiosandgentlyfoldthemin.
Spoonthebatterintothetin.Bakefor50minutesoruntilaskewercomesoutclean.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforeturningoutontoawireracktocool.
Whenthecakeiscool,placethepomegranateskinsideupinyourhandwithyourfingersspreadout.Holdthepomegranatejustinsideabigbowlbeforehittingthebackofthefruitwithawoodenspoon.Theseedswillfallthroughthegapsbetweenyourfingers.
Sifttheicingsugarintoabowl,thenaddtheyoghurtandmixwelltogetathickpouringconsistency.Pourontopofthecooledcake,gentlyguidingitdownthesides.Oncetheicinghasstoppeddripping,takethepomegranatejuiceanddotseveraldropsalongthetopofthecake.Dragaskewerortoothpickinafigure-of-eightpatternthroughthedripsofpomegranate,swirlingitallaroundthecake.
Stickthepomegranateseedstothesideofthecakewhentheicinghasstoppeddripping.Ifit’sdifficulttomakethemstick,chillthecakefor10minutesinthefridgefirst.
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There’snothingmorehomelythanthesmellofcinnamonandbakingapples.Thiswouldbetheperfectcaketobakeifyouweretryingtosellyourhome.
IhadanamazingsliceofapplecakewhenIwasinAmsterdam,wheretheypridethemselvesonit:butterycaramelpastrywithamixofbothsofttenderapplepiecesandoneswithbite(acombinationofapplesareamust).I’veaddedroastedgroundhazelnutstomybatter,whichgivesthefinishedproductadeliciouslynutty,almostfrangipaneflavour.ThepastryissimilartooneusedintheAustriancakemymumandauntsmake,Linzertorte(hazelnutpastrywithraspberryjam)–oneofmyfavourites.
200gblanchedhazelnutsoralmonds360gsoftunsaltedbutter225gsoftlightbrownsugaragoodpinchofseasalt3mediumeggs,lightlybeaten400gplainflour
4tspbakingpowderoptional:1tbspicingsugar,toserveForthefilling
30gsoftlightbrownsugar(plusextraforthetopping)
1tbspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundginger¼tspgratednutmeg
2tbspcornflour3firmapples(suchasBraeburn,RoyalGala,Cox)
5mediumBramleycookingapplesEquipmenta30cmsquarecaketin,butteredapipingorfoodbag
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a30cmsquarecaketin,butteredapipingorfoodbag
Preheattheovento160°C(fan).
Putthenutsintoadrypanonamediumheat.Toastforabout5minutes,oruntilthenutsaregolden,stirringfrequently.Removefromthepanandletthenutscoolcompletely,thenblendtheminafoodprocessortoafinepowder.
Creamtogetherthebutter,softlightbrownsugarandsaltinalargebowl.Mixintheeggsgradually.Inaseparatebowlmixtogethertheflour,bakingpowderandgroundnuts,thenfoldgentlyintothebuttermix.
Spreadtwo-thirdsofthebatteracrossthebaseofthecaketin.Keepthebaseeven,butscrapeitupalittleatthesidestocreateanedgetoholdthefilling.
Tomakethefilling,mixthesoftlightbrownsugar,spicesandcornflourinalargebowl.Peel,coreandcuttheapplesinto2cmcubes,thentosswellinthespicemix.Scatterthefillingoverthecakebatterandleveloutevenly.
Placetheremainingcakebatterinapipingbagorfoodbagwiththeendsnippedoff,andpipe4linesofbatteronewayoverthetopofthecake,then4linestheotherway,tomakealatticepattern.Bakefor50–60minutes,oruntilthecrustisgoldenbrown.
Leavetocoolfor10minutes,thenremovefromthetinanddustwithicingsugar(ifusing).Servingwarmwithadollopofwhippedcreamorascoopofvanillaicecream.
TipIfyoucan’tfindblanchedhazelnuts,roastunblanchedonesfor8–10minutesat120°C(fan)andrubtheskinsoffwithacleanteatowel.
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Ilovethewibble-wobbleofjellyonaplate.ThetextureisimmenselysatisfyingwhenpairedwithlashingsofChantillycream,provingthatjellyisn’tjustfunforkids.
Fortheplumjelly2kgpurpleorredplums750mlwater650gcastersugar
12gelatinleavesForthecrystallizedbasilleaves
1eggwhite4–6tbspcastersugarahandfulofbasilleavesFortheChantillycream
525mlwhippingcream75gcastersugar
3tbspelderflowercordialEquipmenta1.5litrejellymould,lightlyoiled
Halvetheplums,leavingthestonesin,andplaceinalargesaucepanwiththewaterandsugaroveramediumheat.Bringtoasimmer,stirringfrequentlytohelpdissolvethesugar,thenlowertheheat.Simmertheplumsuncoveredfor15–20minutes,oruntilmushy.
Halffillalargewidecontainerwithcoldwater,thenaddthegelatinleavesoneatatime,sotheydon’tsticktogether.Leavetosoakfor10minutes.
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Draintheplumsinacolandersetoveralargejugorbowl,reservingthesyrup.Thenpasstheplumsthroughafinesieveintothejugorbowl,pressingoutasmuchoftheplumjuiceasyoucan.Discardthestones,butkeepthestewedfruitforanotherday(seetips).
Squeezethewaterfromthesoakedgelatinleavesandaddtotheplumsyrup.Stiruntildissolved,thenpourintoyourjellymould.Dabwithkitchentowelifthereisanyscumatthetop.Leavetocoolcompletely,thencoverandputinthefridgeforatleast12hoursorovernight.
Whenthejellyhasset,crystallizethebasilleaves.Placetheeggwhiteinabowlandwhisklightlytoloosen.Placethesugaronaplate,andhaveacleanplatetohand.Dipacleanpaintbrushorpastrybrushintotheeggwhiteanddelicatelycoatabasilleaf.Sprinkletheleafwithsugar,thenplaceonthecleanplate.Repeatwiththeremainingleavesandsetasideinacool,darkplace.
Beforeserving,whipthecreamwiththesugaruntilitformssoftpeaks,thenfoldintheelderflowercordial.Removethejellyfromitsmouldandplaceonacakestand.DolloptheChantillycreamaroundtheedgeofthejellyandarrangethebasilleavesontop.
TipsTheleftoverstewedfruitgoeswellwithyoghurtandgranola.
Toremovethejellyfromthemould,dipthemouldquicklyinhotwater.
Usethebasilleaveswithin1–2hoursofservingastheytendtolosetheirvibrantcolour.
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ThisrecipeisatwistononeofmyfavouriteMalaysiandesserts,cendol.Cendolisabrightgreensweetnoodle,usuallymadewithmung-beanflourandpandanleaf.Theflavourandcolourcomesfromthepandanleaf,whichhasanaromaticsweetalmondandvanillaperfume.Thenoodlesarethenmixedwithshavediceandredbeansanddousedwithcoconutmilk.
I’veswitchedsomeoftheingredients(pandanleafandmung-beanflour)foronesthatareeasytobuyinthesupermarket(riceflour,cornflourandtropicaljuice).Therearenoredbeansinsight,butinsteadacolourfulassortmentoftropicalfruits.Noneedforanicemachinetoshaveiceeither;aquick-to-makecoconutgranitareplacesthat.
6ripepassionfruits½asmallmango½agaliaorcantaloupemelonjuiceandzestof1limeForthecoconutgranita100gcastersugar100mlwater1×400mltinofcoconutmilkForthetropicalcendol
25griceflour25gcornflour250mltropicalorexoticfruitjuiceEquipment
amedium-sizedpipingorfoodbag
4sundaeglasses
Tomakethecoconutgranita,dissolvethesugarinthewaterinamediumsaucepanoveralowheat,swirlingthepangently,thenbringtoasimmerfor1minute.Takeofftheheatandstirinthecoconutmilk.Pourthemixintoaplastic
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minute.Takeofftheheatandstirinthecoconutmilk.Pourthemixintoaplasticliddedcontainer.Placeinthefreezerandleavefor6hours,forkingeveryhourorsoafterthefirst2hours(makesureyouforkthesidestoo,otherwiseitwillfreezesolid).Oncethemixtureisfirm,coverorwraptightlyinclingfilm.
Tomakethetropicalcendol,placethefloursinasmallsaucepan.Whiskthefruitjuiceintotheflours,thencookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutes,oruntilthemixturebecomesverythickandglossy,whiskingcontinuously.Takeofftheheatandleavefor2minutes.
Preparealargebowlfulloficedwater.Transferthecendoltoamedium-sizedpipingorfoodbagandsnipoffasmallcorner.Wearingwashing-upgloves(asthemixtureinthebagisstillveryhot),pipethecendolinlongpiecesstraightintotheicedwater.Setasidefor15minutes.
Meanwhile,preparethefruit.Removethepulpfromthepassionfruitsandputintoalargebowl.Stonethemangoanddeseedthemelon,thenchopthefleshintobite-sizepieces.Tossthefruitwiththelimejuiceandzest(savingalittlezestforthegarnish).
Whenreadytoserve,take4sundaeglasses,forkupthegranitaandplacesomeatthebottomofeachglass.Drainthewaterfromthecendolandaddsometoeachglass,thenaddaspoonfuloffruit.Addanotherlayerofgranita,cendolandfruit,thensprinklewithalittlelimezest.Serveimmediately.
TipThegranitacanbemadeupto2–3weeksinadvance.Justremovefromthefreezerforabout15minutestosofteniffrozensolid.
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Last,butcertainlynotleast,Ileaveyouwithmyfinalchapter.FromcookiesandSwedish-stylebuns,totrufflesandsweetchillisauce:eventhemostunstoppableofcooks(myselfincluded)havebeentemptedtobuysomeoftheseratherthanmakethemathome.Buthomemadeisalwayssomuchbetterthenshop-bought,andwhiletheymightbemoretime-consumingtomake,you’lldefinitelyreaptherewardslater.
FrommytimeinFranceandbeyond,theaperitifculturewillalwaysstickwithme,andinthischapteryou’lldiscoversomeimpressiverecipesforservinginthatoft-neglectedtimebeforeameal.There’smyhome-curedduckbreast,fromwhichyoucansimplysliceoffsomesliversforanimpromptuaperitif.Ormyhomemadegrissini,sounbelievablysimple,you’llwonderwhyyouneverbotheredmakingyourownbefore.
Ediblegiftscomeinmanyguises,andmychocolatebarkmakesforareallyspeedylunchboxtreatforkidsorevenever-so-luckyotherhalves.Thentherearethecook’scheatstomakeeverydaylifealittlebitmoregourmet;takemystockcubes,ormyhomemadecottagecheeseandputyourownstamponthemwhenyouusethem.
ThischapterisfilledwithaselectionofmyrecipesIhavecollectedalongtheway,manyofwhichhavebecomemymosttrustedandused.Ihopetheybecomeyourstoo.
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Makingyourownchocolatebarkcouldn’tbesimpler.Greatforasnack,after-dinnerchocolatesortheperfectediblegift.
200gdarkchocolate(70%),brokenintopieces15gmixedseeds(e.g.sunflower,pumpkinandsesame)15gpistachiokernels
20gdriedcranberries
Putthechocolateintoaheatproofbowlandplaceoverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted.Lineatraywithbakingpaperandpourthechocolateontoit,thenspreadwithaspatulaorpaletteknifeintoarectangleabout18cm×22cmandaround0.5cmthick.
Immediatelysprinkletheseeds,pistachiosandcranberriesevenlyoverthetop.Transfertothefridgetosetforatleast1hour.Onceset,breakthebarkupintojaggedpieces.
TipThetoppingsyoucanuseforthisareendless.IusuallyseewhatIhaveleftoverinmycupboard–fromdriedapricots,figsorfreeze-driedfruit(greatforcolour),tohazelnuts,pecansandsugarsprinkles.
GetaheadChocolatebarkkeepsinthefridgeforupto2weeks.
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Ilovefreshfigs:they’relikesweetsforme.WhenIlivedinParisIwouldgotomylocalmarketandpickupabag,andbythetimeIgothometheywouldbegone.It’sdifficulttofindperfectlyripefigswhenthey’renotinseason,sofortherestoftheyearIhavetogetmyfigfixwiththedriedversion.Driedfigsaremoreintenseandsweeterthanthefreshones,andpairbeautifullywithbitterdarkchocolate.
85gdriedfigs85gMedjooldates,stonesremoved40gpistachiokernels
20gsoftunsaltedbutter½tspseasalt100gdarkchocolate(70%)
70gblanchedalmonds,toastedandfinelychopped
Removeanddiscardthetoughstalksfromthetopsofthefigs.Chopthefigs,thenplaceinafoodprocessorwiththedates,pistachiokernels,butterandsalt.Whizzuntiltheyformapaste.Tipthepasteoutoftheprocessorandrollinto12smalltruffle-sizedballs,thenplaceonatray.
Putthechocolateintoaheatproofbowloverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Leavetomelt.Placethechoppedalmondsonaplate.
Dipthetruffleballsintothemeltedchocolateoneatatime,usingacoupleofforkstocoatwell.Immediatelytransfertothechoppedalmondsandrolltocoat.Placeonaplateorasmallbakingtraylinedwithclingfilm,thencoatthe
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remainingtruffles.Putintothefridgetosetfor1hour.
TipExperimentwithotherdriedfruitornutstofillorcoatyourtruffles.
GetaheadThesekeepwellinthefridgeforaweekorsoinanairtightcontainer.Youcanalsofreezethembeforecoatingthemwithchocolate.Theyaregooduncoatedtoo.
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IcedgemswouldalwaysappearinabowlonthepartybuffettablewhenIwasakid.Thoselittleroundbiscuitstoppedwithcandy-colouredicingwereveryhardtoresist.Sometimesmemoriesarebestleftinthepast,however,aswhenItastedthemrecentlyIrealizedhoweasilysatisfiedIwaswithfoodasachild.Iwasnofoodconnoisseurbackthen!Despitethefactshop-boughtonescanbealittledisappointing,homemadesavouryonesaretheperfectwaytokickoffaparty.Thesebite-sizebutterycrackerstoppedwithcolourful(allnatural!)toppingsareatreatforbotholdandyoung.
Forthecrackerbases80gplainflour75gwholemealplainflour½tspseasalt1tbspcastersugar
1tsppaprika80gcoldbutter,cubed
2tspvodkaForthedevilledegg
3largeeggs2tbspmayonnaise(seehere)
1tspEnglishmustardseasaltandfreshlygroundpepperFortheavocadocream
1ripeavocado1tsplimejuiceorlemonjuiceapinchofsaltFortheharissacreamcheese
1tspharissapaste100gcreamcheeseormascarponecheeseEquipment
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3cmcutter3pipingbagswitha4–5mmstarnozzle
Preheattheovento170°C(fan).Tomakethecrackerbases,mixtogethertheflours,salt,sugarandpaprikainalargebowl,thenrubthebutterinwithyourfingersuntilyouhaveasandytexture.Addthevodkaandbringthemixtogetherintoaball.Rolloutwitharollingpinto5mmthicknessbetweentwosheetsofbakingpaper.
Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.Withthecutter,stampout50cookies,re-rollingthedoughasnecessary.Putonthetrayandbakefor10–12minutes,oruntilthebasesaregolden.Takeoutoftheovenandtransfertoawireracktocool.
Meanwhile,makethesavourycreams.Forthedevilledeggcream,placetheeggsinapanofboilingwaterandboilfor10minutes.Removewithaslottedspoonandrunundercoldwatertocool.Peeltheeggsandremovetheyolkfromthewhite(discardingthewhite).Mixtheyolkswiththemayonnaise,mustardandsaltandpeppertotaste.Blendtoapurée(asmallfoodprocessorisidealforthis)andsetaside.
Scoopthefleshoutoftheavocadointoasmallbowl,addthelimeorlemonjuiceandsalt,thenmixandblendtoapurée.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheharissaintothecheeseandblendthistoapuréetoo.
Placethedevilledeggpuréeintoapipingbagwiththestarnozzleandpipelittleblobsontoathirdofthecooledcrackers.Cleanthenozzle,thenrepeatwiththeotherpuréesandcrackers.
TipsIfthepastrybecomestoosoftwhenhandling,placeinthefreezerfor5minutesandrunyourhandsundercoldwater.
Addingvodkatothepastrywillmakeforaflakierpastrythanusingice-coldwater.Thealcoholevaporateswhenbaked.
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Thisistheperfectloafforthosewithlimitedpatiencewholovefreshbread.Unlikeatraditionalloafthisbreadreliesonbicarbonateofsodaratherthanyeast,andaslittlemixingaspossibletomakeasoftandtendercrumb.Withaslightlysweetandbitternotefromthetreacle,itgoesdownatreatwhenwarmandbuttered.Homemadebuttermightseemliketakingittoofarbutthere’snothingtoitapartfromover-whippingthecream(plustheexcessbuttermilkcomesinhandyforthebread).
Forthewhippedbutter500mldoublecream2pinchesofseasalt
3tbspfinelychoppedchivesForthequickbread125gplainflour125gryeorwholemealflour1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspbrownsugar
1tspgroundseasaltflakes40–70mlplainyoghurt75gtreacle
1tbsprolledoatsEquipmenta450gloaftin,greasedandfloured
Preheattheovento180°C(fan).
Whiskthedoublecreamonahighspeedinafreestandingmixerwithwhiskattachment,untilitseparatestobuttersolidsandbuttermilk–thistakesabout5minutes.Drainoffthebuttermilkandsetaside.Continuetowhiptheremaining
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minutes.Drainoffthebuttermilkandsetaside.Continuetowhiptheremainingbutteruntilsoftandfluffy,addingthesaltandchoppedchives.
Mixtogethertheflours,bicarbonateofsoda,brownsugarandsaltflakesinalargebowl.Makeawellinthecentre.Measureoutthebuttermilkandaddenoughyoghurttobringtheweightupto200g.Pourthebuttermilkandyoghurtintothecentreofthedryingredients,mixtogetherandaddthetreacle.Mixtogetheruntileverythingisincorporated.Trynottooverworkit.Putthemixtureintothetinandspreaditoutsothatitislevel.Sprinklewithoats.
Bakefor30minutes,oruntiltheskewercomesoutcleanfromthecentre.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforetakingoutofthetin.Coverwithadampteatowelwhilecooling.Servewiththebutterontheside.
TipsBesteatenwhilewarmorthefollowingdaytoasted.
Ifyouwanttoavoidmakingthebutter,replacethebuttermilkandyoghurtinthebreadrecipewithacombinationof100mlwholemilkand100gplainyoghurt.
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Iwokeuponemorningwithanoverwhelmingcravingforadeepdarkchocolatecookiestuddedwithcherries.Mostimportantly,ithadtohavetherighttexture:crispontheedgesandchewyinthemiddle.Afewfactorsareinvolvedinmakingtheperfectchewycookie:bakingfortherightamountoftimeattherighttemperature;andusingdarkbrownsugar,whichmakesforamoistercookie.
100gsaltedbutter80gdarkbrownsoftsugar80glightbrownsoftsugar½tspseasalt100gplainflour2½tbspcocoapowder(20g)½tspbakingpowder
1egg½tspbitteralmondessence100gdarkchocolate(70%),roughlychoppedintosmallpieces100gtinnedblackstonelesscherries(drainedweight),choppedinhalf
Meltthebutter,sugarsandsaltinamediumsaucepan,thenleavetocoolslightly.
Sifttheplainflour,cocoapowderandbakingpowderintoabowlandmixtogether.Makeawellinthecentre,addtheeggandalmondessenceandbegintomix.Pourintheslightlycooledbutterandsugar.Mixtogetheruntiltherearenolumps.
Layoutalargepieceofclingfilmonasmallbakingtrayonyourworksurface.Pourthecookiemixontothefilmandspreadintoaneatsquare,about2cmthick.Usetheexcessclingfilmtocoverthebatterandplaceinthefreezeronthe
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thick.Usetheexcessclingfilmtocoverthebatterandplaceinthefreezeronthetrayfor30–45minutes(orinthefridgefor1–2hours),untilfirmenoughtocutinto16squares.
Preheattheovento170°C(fan).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperandplacethecookiesquaresonthem,leavinga3–4cmgapbetweeneachcookie(theywillspreadoutafairbitastheycook).Pressthechocolateandcherrieslightlyintothecookies.Bakefor12–14minutes,oruntilslightlycrispontheoutsidebutstillsoftinthemiddle(theywillhardenwhentheycool).Leaveonthebakingtrayfor10minuteswhenyouremovethemfromtheoven,thenuseafishsliceorspatulatotransfertoawireracktocool.
TipForaplaincookie,replacethecocoapowderwithplainflour.Thecherriesandchocolatecanbereplacedwithotherflavourings,suchaswhitechocolateanddriedcranberries,ordarkchocolateandwalnuts.
GetaheadThecookiesfreezewell,eithercookedorasadough.Addanextra5minutestothecookingtimeifbakingfromfrozen.Thesearebesteatenonthedayyoubakethem.
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WhenIwasinBarcelonaIvisitedaclassicchurrería,whichfeltlikethelocalspottogather,abitlikethelocalcaféwhereyouwouldgrababuilder’scupofteaandcatchupwiththelatestgossip.Itwascheapandcheerful,andtheymadesinfullygoodchurros,servedwithrichhotchocolatesothickthatyoucouldstandthemupinit.Althoughtheyaretraditionallyabreakfastfood,ifyouswitchaningredientortwotheymakeagreatsavourydish.
Forthepotatochurros75gbutter100gpotatoflour100gplainflour
1tspcastersugar½tspseasalt¼tspbakingpowder
2eggs1litresunflowerorvegetableoil,fordeep-frying½tspsweetsmokedpaprikaFortheredpeppersauce
4redpeppers1cloveofgarlic,peeled1tbspextravirginoliveoil
6cherrytomatoesseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperEquipment
apipingbagwitha1cmstar-shapednozzle
Meltthebutterinamediumsaucepan,andwhenitstartstobubblegentlybeatinbothoftheflours,alongwiththesugar,saltandbakingpowder.Mixwitha
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bothoftheflours,alongwiththesugar,saltandbakingpowder.Mixwithawoodenspoonuntilitcomestogether,thencrackintheeggsonebyone,andmixagain.Placethechurrosbatterinapipingbagfittedwithastar-shapednozzle,andleavetochillinthefridgewhileyoumakethepeppersauce.
Preheatthegrilltohigh.Cutthepeppersinhalfandremovetheseeds.Placeskinsideuponanoiledbakingtrayandgrillfor15–20minutes,oruntilblackenedandtender.Placeinaplasticbagandleavetosteamforabout20minutes.
Whencoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardtheskinsandplacethefleshinablenderwiththegarlic,oliveoilandtomatoes.Blitzuntilverysmooth.Tasteforseasoning.
Heatthesunfloweroilinalargeheavy-basedpanonahighheat–youwantittoreach170°C.Testthetemperatureoftheoilwithatinyamountofthebatter.Ifitfizzeswhenithitstheoil,youarereadytostartfrying.
Pipethebatteroutdirectlyintothehotoil.Useapairofscissorstosnipeachchurroatthepipingnozzlewhenit’sabout10cmlong.Frythechurrosintwobatchesfor5–6minutes,oruntillightlypalegolden.Theywillneedtobeturnedcarefullyafewtimeswithalong-handledslottedspoon.
Drainonpapertowel.Sprinklewithalittlesmokedpaprikawhilestillhot,andservewiththeredpeppersauceontheside.
GetaheadThesaucecanbemadeinadvance,butthechurrosarebesteatenhotfromthefryer.
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Makingyourowncottagecheesemightseemalittleunnecessarybutthehomemadestuffisnothingliketheshop-boughtvariety.ItmakestheperfectbaseformyEnglishgardensalad(seehere).
2litreswholemilkseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperjuiceof4lemons
Inalargepan,heatthemilkwithafewgrindsofsaltandpepper.Justbeforeitcomestotheboil,takeitofftheheat.Stirinthelemonjuice,thencoverandsetasidefor30minutes.Themilkwillcurdleandseparateintowheyandcurd.
Pourthroughasievelinedwithacleanteatowelormuslin.Hangtheteatoweloverthesinkforthecurdtodrainforaround30minutes.Whendrained,twisttheteatowelaroundthetopofthecheeseandsqueezeitdry.
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Havinggoodstocktohandmeanshavingaconstantsourceofflavourtoplaywith.Butinasmallkitchenitcanbetrickytostorefreshstockallthetime.Reducingstockdownuntilit’sintenselyconcentrated,thenfreezingitinicecubetrays,isagreatwayofmakingitavailableforanyoccasion,withouttakinguptoomuchpreciousspace.
1litrefreshhamstock(usethestockfromthesmokedhamhocksonhere)
Equipmenta14-holeicecubetray
Placethestockinalargewidepanandsimmerforaround45minutes,oruntilreducedtoabout200ml.Pourintoanemptyicecubetrayandleavetocoolbeforeplacinginthefreezer.
TipYoucanusethisstockwheneveryoulike;it’sperfectformyspeedyonepotnoodle.
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1tbspeachofchoppedcapers,choppedcornichons,choppedparsley,choppedtarragonandchoppedchervil1quantityofmayonnaise,asabove
Stirthecapers,cornichonsandherbsintothemayonnaise.Servewithsnap,crackleandpopfish(seehere).
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Ihavequiteacollectionofchillisaucesinmyfridge,fromthesuper-fierystufftothisone,whichyoucanprettymuchputonanythingifyoufancyasweetandspicykick.
200gcastersugar180mlwhitewinevinegar3cmpieceofginger,peeledandfinelychopped3–4smallredchillies,veryfinelychopped,withseeds
1tbspcornflour
Place200mlofwaterinasmallsaucepanwiththesugar,vinegar,gingerandchilliesonahighheat.Bringtotheboil,thencontinuetoboilfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.
Whisk1½tablespoonsoftheliquidintothecornflourinasmallbowl,thenaddbacktothesaucepan.Turntheheatdowntolowandcookforabout5minutes,untilitthickenstoajust-pourableconsistency,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Decantintosterilizedjarsandleaveforaround30minutestocoolcompletely.
Servewiththesoftsteamedbuns.
TipDependingontheheatofthechilliesandyourpersonalpreference,youcanadjustthenumberusedandremovetheseedsifdesired.
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GetaheadThesaucecanbemadeaheadanddecantedintosterilizedjars.Tosterilizeglassjars,washthoroughlyanddrainupsidedown.Placeonatrayinanovenat180°C(fan)for10minutes.Sterilizethelidsbyplacinginboilingwateronthehobfor10minutes,thenremovecarefullyandleavetodryoncleanteatowels.
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I’vealwaysbelievedthatyoudon’tneedthelatestgadgetsandgizmostomakeadeliciousmeal,andhaveoftencookedinplaceswherenoteverythingistohand.I’vebuiltupmykitchenequipmentovertheyears,butifIhadtodoitalloveragainonasmallbudgetthesearethethingsIwouldinitiallyinvestin:
LargecocottePerfectforslowcookingdishes.Alsogreatbecauseyoucantransferitfromhobtooven.Notthecheapestitemtobuy,butagood-qualityonewilllastyoualifetime.I’vefoundafewthatareingoodnickatcharityshopsandfleamarkets.
LargefryingpanInvestinonewithaheavybase(itconductstheheatbetter)andagood-qualityhandle(usuallythefirstthingtobreak).
SmallsaucepanForthesmallerjobswhereyoudon’tneedalargecocotte.
SpeedpeelerOneofmyfavouritetools,notbecauseIlovepeelingpotatoesbutmorebecauseyoucanuseittomakeribbonsoutofcucumbers,courgettes,carrotsandmanyotherthingstojazzupyoursalad.
SmallandlargestainlesssteelorglassmixingbowlsPlasticbowlsarehardertogetsuperclean.They’remorelikelytohavetracesofgreasefrombeingusedbeforehand,whichisthelastthingyouwantwhenyou’remakingameringue.Aspotlessbowlisessentialformakingmeringuesandstainlesssteelorglassmixingbowlsareperfectforthis.Theyalsocomeinhandyformeltingchocolateoverasimmeringpanofwater.
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handyformeltingchocolateoverasimmeringpanofwater.
Achef’sknife,aserratedbreadknifeandasmallvegetableknife,plusaknifesharpenerIfthere’sonethingyoushouldspendmoneyonit’sknives.Welllookedafterandkeptsharp,theyshouldlastyouatleastadecade,ifnotalifetime.Makesuretostoreyourknivesinaknifeblockoronamagneticknifestrip,notinadrawer.
HeatproofspatulaBetterthanawoodenspoon,aheatproofspatula(siliconeisgreat)canscrapethesidesandbottomofthesaucepantoensurenothingendsupburning.Canalsodoubleupforgentlyfoldingbatter.
DigitalscalesIusedtoteachFrenchbakingtoAmericantouristsinParisandIwasconstantlytryingtoconvincethemthatweighingingredientsisanabsolutemustwhenitcomestobaking.Soinvestinoneofthese!Italsocomesinhandywhenmeasuringliquids(1ml=1g),meaningnomeasuringjugisneededandyoucanbeaccuratetothedecimalpoint.
OventhermometerIregularlyendupusingovensinmanydifferentkitchens,andnomatterwhatthethermometersaysontheovenitismoreoftenthannotincorrect.Havinganadditionaloventhermometerisagoodwaytomakesurethetemperatureiscorrectforbaking.
WhiskWhenyou’rebuyingawhisk,lookforonewithsturdymetal‘spokes’.Flimsyonesmeanitwilltakelongertowhipupeggwhitesandcream.
Fine-meshedsieveDoublesupforsiftinglumpsoutoficingsugarordrainingoffliquids.
SpringformbakingtinProbablythemostpopularsizewhenitcomestobakingis20cmdiameter.Aspringformwithitseasyreleaseleverwilllimittheriskofcakesstickingtothe
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sides.
Choppingboard(woodorplastic)Ifyouwanttotakegoodcareofyourknives,makesurenevertochoponaglassormarblesurface.Don’tdragtheknifebladeacrosstheboardtoscrapeingredientsintoapot,insteadturnthebladeupsidedowntoscrape.Usingthebladetoscrapetheboardisthequickestwayofbluntingtheblade.
Notamustbutsomeadditionalfavourites:
JapanesemandolinComesinhandyformakingequallythinslicedpotatoesforyourgratin.Thegraterbladeforjuliennevegetablesmakesthecrunchiestslaw(ratherthanasoggyone).Justmakesuretobecarefulandusethehandguard!
MicroplanegraterPerfectforzestingcitrusfruitasitonlytakesthefinelayerofzestratherthanthepith,andequallyusefulforfinelygratinghardcheeses.
PipingbagwithasetofpipingnozzlesIfyou’reabuddingbaker,thenagoodpipingbag(goforthesilicone-coatedoneswhichcanbeeasilycleanedratherthantheold-fashionedclothones)andasetofpipingnozzles(startipandround)areamust.
ContainersWheneverIuseupajarofjamorhoneyitgetswashedoutandusedtostoredryingredients–it’smuchbetterthanhavingopenpacketslyingaround.InadditiontojamjarsIalsohaveaselectionofgood-qualityairtightcontainers;perfectforstoringleftoversinthefridgeorfreezingthem.
FlatandangledspatulasIhavemini(12cm)spatulas,bothangledandstraight,aswellaslargeones.Theymakeeasyworkoficingcakesandthelargeronesarehandyformovingcakesaround.Alsogreatforliftingupingredientstoseewhetherthey’recookedunderneath.
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Thisisalittleglimpseintomyfridgeandkitchencupboards.You’llalwaysfindtheseingredientshangingabout,evenifIhaven’tbeenforarecentgroceryshop.
EggsIloveeggswhetherthey’refried,poachedorsoftboiled;hencemesplashingoutalittlemoreforeggswitharichyolk.Youcanseethedifferencewhenyoumakeapastrycream(suchasfortherhubarbandcustardmillefeuille)asitwillhavearicheryellowhue,makingitmoreappetizing.Forme,afriedeggservedsunnysideupwillimmediatelybrightenupeventhedullestgreywinter’sday.Therecipesinthisbookweremadeusingmediumfree-range(andorganic)eggs.ItendtokeepthematroomtemperatureinmykitchenasIgetthroughthemquicklyanditmakesthemlesslikelytocrackwhenboilingthemforasoft-boiledegg.Forbakingalso,itishandytohaveallyouringredientsatroomtemperaturewhenyoustart.
ButterMymantra‘Buttermakeseverythingbetter’stemsfrommyAustriangrandma’sloveofthegoldenstuff.Idon’tneedtosaymuchabouthowaddingaknobofbuttertoadishwillgiveitasmoothtaste.Youcaneventryyourhandatmakingyourownonhere.
CheeseTosayIlovecheeseisanunderstatement.Ihaveaseriousproblem.There’salwaysapieceofcheese(preferablythepungentkind)inmyfridge.Pairedwithafewcornichonsorpickledonionsandsomecrackers,it’sthelazy,butdelicious,dinnerIturntowhenI’vebeencookingallday.
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Crèmefraîche(orthickGreekyoghurtforthelighterdays)Aversatileingredient:asimpleblobofthecreamystuffwithsomefreshberries,adrizzleofmeltedchocolateanddessertissorted.Alsoperfectforsaladdressings,addingtosoupsormakingsauces.
SaltForseasoningIalwaysuseaflakyseasaltsuchasMaldon.
MeatAlwaysbuythebestqualitymeatyoucanafford.IwouldprefernottoeatitifIamunsureofhowitwasraised,soItryhardtosourceminefromtrustworthysuppliers.Iamalsoabigfanofslow-cookingcutsandoffal,whicharetastierinmyopinionandfarmoreaffordablethatchickenbreastsorfilletsofbeef.TurnerandGeorge(www.turnerandgeorge.co.uk)areanexcellentsourceofallthingscarnivorous,andtheydeliveracrosstheUK.
FishIamfortunatetohaveaccesstoanexcellentlocalfishmongerthatonlysellsfishcaughtinasustainablemanner.Don’tbeafraidtoaskyourfishmongerwherethefishcomesfromandlookoutforthesealofapprovalfromtheMCSortheRSPCAFreedomFoodschemeifyouarebuyingtinnedorfrozenfish.
FreshherbsEvenlivinginthecityIstillhaveawindowboxortwowithplentyofherbsandtheoddradishgrowinginit.It’smuchcheaperandsignificantlymorerewardingthanbuyingthem.Beforethecoldwinterhitsyourharvest,popyourherbsinthefreezer.
WinevinegarIprefertodressmysaladswithredorwhitewinevinegar,ratherthanbalsamic,whichcanbeoverbearinglysweetandsticky.Winevinegarhasacleanertaste.Ialsouseitinsaucestoaddaofbitaciditywhenneeded,suchasinmysummerspaghettibolognesesauceormychilledcucumbersoup.
ChillisauceIhaveatleastthreetypesofchillisauceinmyfridge:asweetone(perfectfor
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dippingspringrolls,likemyownchillisauce),afieryone(Ilovespicyfoodandwilloftenusechillisaucelikeakidwouldliberallyusetomatoketchup)andTabasco–perfectforseasoningabloodymary.
TinnedcherrytomatoesSweeterandmoreflavourfulthantheirplumcousins.I’veusedtheminquiteafewrecipes,suchasmycreamoftomatosouportheseafoodchilli.
Lentils–PuyorbelugaIalwaysfeelalittlevirtuouswhenIeatlentils,unlikewithpastaorpotatoes.YoumightcallmealentilsnobasIprefertheslightlymoreexpensivetype,butbothPuyandbelugaholdtheirshapebetterandhaveadeliciousnuttyflavour.
OvenIusethefansettingformostofmycookingasIfindthattheheatdistributesmoreevenly.Ifyouhaveaconventionaloventhenadd20°Ctothetemperature.Itishelpfultokeepathermometerforprecision.
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Spacetoaddyourownscribblesanddoodles.
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Thankyou!
Liketheoldsaying‘behindeverysuccessfulmanisastrongwoman’goes,asimilarthingcouldbesaidaboutasuccessfulfoodwriter.Behindthescenes
thereisabrilliantteamofpeoplewhosupportmywritingandensurethebookisthebestitcanbe.Withoutthesepeopletherewouldbenobook.SoaBIGthankyouto:mypublisher:PenguinandthefantasticteamatMichaelJosephmy
editors:LindseyEvansandTamsinEnglish
myartdirector:JohnHamilton
myphotographer:DavidLoftus
myfoodstylist:FrankieUnsworth
mypropstylists:LydiaBrunandOliviaWardle
myliteraryagent:LizzyKremer,HarrietMooreandtheteamatDavidHighammyassistantsandrecipetester:LibbyDavis,HelenVass,CharliePhillipsand
BrenParkins-KnightAndlastbutnotleastmyfriends,familyandRobertWiktorin.
Andthefollowingbrandsforthelovelyclothes:PetitBateauwww.petit-bateau.co.uk
MrsPomeranzwww.mrs-pomeranz.com
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Andthefollowingshopsandbrandsforlendingussomebeautifulprops:RockettStGeorge
www.rockettstgeorge.co.uk
TheDeliDownstairswww.thedelidownstairs.co.uk
FiredEarth(specialthankstoElizabethofMar)
MostoftheFiredEarthtilesusedforthepurposeofthisshootarewalltilesandnotsuitableforsurfaces.Formoreinfoontheirtiles,pleasevisittheFiredEarth
website.www.firedearth.com
PresentandCorrect(specialthankstoNeal)
www.presentandcorrect.com
LeCreusetwww.lecreuset.co.uk
TheSalvationArmywww.salvationarmy.org.uk
Anthropologiewww.anthropologie.eu
Leila’sgeneralstorewww.leilasgeneralstore.com
JuliaSmithceramicswww.juliasmithceramics.com
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THEBEGINNING
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MICHAELJOSEPHPublishedbythePenguinGroupPenguinBooksLtd,80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,EnglandPenguinGroup(USA)Inc.,375HudsonStreet,NewYork,NewYork10014,USAPenguinGroup(Canada),90EglintonAvenueEast,Suite700,Toronto,Ontario,CanadaM4P2YR(adivisionofPearsonPenguinCanadaInc.)PenguinIreland,25StStephen’sGreen,Dublin2,Ireland(adivisionofPenguinBooksLtd)PenguinGroup(Australia),707CollinsStreet,Melbourne,Victoria3008,Australia(adivisionofPearsonAustraliaGroupPtyLtd)PenguinBooksIndiaPvtLtd,11CommunityCentre,PanchsheelPark,NewDelhi–110017,IndiaPenguinGroup(NZ),67ApolloDrive,Rosedale,Auckland0632,NewZealand(adivisionofPearsonNewZealandLtd)PenguinBooks(SouthAfrica)(Pty)Ltd,BlockD,RosebankOfficePark,181JanSmutsAvenue,ParktownNorth,Gauteng2193,SouthAfricaPenguinBooksLtd,RegisteredOffices:80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,Englandwww.penguin.com
www.rachelkhoo.com
Firstpublished2015
Textcopyright©RachelKhoo,2015Photographycopyright©DavidLoftus,2015Illustrationscopyright©PeasinaPotLtd,2015
ThemoralrightoftheauthorhasbeenassertedAllrightsreservedISBN:978-0-718-18073-7