refueled issue 8

Winter 11/12

MUSIC // STYLE // ADVENTURE

Issue No. 08

Winter 11/12


In the last six months, myself and Refueled senior photographer Gustav Schmiege have traveled coast to coastexploring America. We met a lot of great folks who inspired us, who told us their stories, and who shared their souls.Each issue of Refueled is a personal journal of sorts. The people and things that I dig.

I invited the people in this issue to open up their journals and share part of their America. From California to New York,and everywhere in between, folks doing their thing and living their America.

refueledmagazine.com

Chris Brown, Publisher/Creative Director

Publisher/Creative Director: Chris BrownSenior Photographer: Gustav Schmiege

Contributing Editors-at-Large: Scott G Toepfer, Cicero DeGuzman Jr.

Contributing Writers/Photographers:Cory Smith, Laura Dart, Jarrod Renaud, Cari Wayman

Issue No. 08

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Letter // No. 001

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Made // No. 002

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Denim and jeans, why and how?

I get asked this all the time and Inever have an adequate answer. Iknow it disappoints Man's Searchfor Meaning, but I really don't knowwhy I started making jeans. It justoccurred to me one day that I could.It was either this or bending neon.

"How" is much more interesting andre la tab le . I had a rud imentaryunderstanding of the sewing machineand I had seen industrial onesbefore. My parents used to call methe wheeler-dealer when I was littlebecause I constantly had some dealgoing on with someone to trade, buyor sell a bike, skateboard, go kart ormotorcycle. As I was coming in thedoor with a different bike, my momjust loved to say "that's it, buy high,sell low..." The point is, that I like tobuy and sell stuff and that's exactlywhat I s tar ted do ing wi th themachines and a bunch of other crapthat I had laying around.

At the same time I had to learn tosew, which is pretty easy. But the

construction of jeans can be confusing.I was able to work it out pretty welland eventually got to where I feltpretty optimistic. Understand though,that this was no business venture. Itwas more like building time machineor a boat in my basement. It wasn'tuntil I started showing people thatsome folks wanted to actually pay forthem. It was really a pressure-filledexperience for me, what with notknowing what the hell I was doing.

Had you had a love of denim orclothes before starting Roy Denim?

Clothes, yes, very much. I was a thriftstore shopper. I didn't know muchabout vintage or anything, I was justlooking for what I liked. As far asdenim, no, I had little to no awarenessof denim. I had some jeans, but Iliked wearing work slacks better.Sears made some good ones called"Roebucks" that I wore for years. Iwould see other dudes on the streetwearing them and we would rapabout how much better they are thanDickies except for that rip that split inthe seam when you sag 'em too

much. Clothes are awesome though,I love clothes. Now I like jeans, mostlybecause its something I envision andmake exactly how I want. I make a lotof my own clothing now and since Ihave attained an understanding oftextiles, I get more excited about thevarious fabrics.

What part did your love formachinery play in jean making?

Originally nothing; I was just trying toget the right tools. Like anything, thegreater the understanding the greaterthe love. I spend so much time readingrepair manuals and patent datasheets that somewhere along theway I turned into a trainspotter aboutit. I need to know about everymachine ever made. Nowadays, themachines and the making are sointerrelated that I don't think of themas separate at all. Its one subject tome. Honestly, if I could get paid torestore old machines, I'd probably dothat and make jeans and other clothingon the side.


Did you dive into this completelyby yourself or did you seek help and advice?

Well, no one exists independent ofothers, so its not like I invented anythingnew. However, I was pretty alone intrying to navigate the seas ofmisinformation. I would be truckin'along - trial and error - then every sooften some angel would fly by andsay, "You're doing it wrong."

The help would always come when itwas needed, but I never really wentlooking for help. I am always justlooking for a good conversation. Iwould listen up when I was aroundthe right folks. Since people enjoytalking when they're not beingconstantly interrupted with annoyingquestions, they'd occasionally spitout some gem of wisdom that I wouldfile away for later. Seriously, that washow it went. The ratio was about 6months of frustrating trial and error to1 minute of The Answer. But, withoutthe struggle, I'd have never heardthem say the answer--if you followme--which is to say that I wouldn'thave known that what they just toldme something kind of key.

What drives your creativity? Yourinspiration for the style of theRoy jean?

I just make things that I would like to

wear or in the case of women'sstyles, what I would wear if I was awoman. I'm really just starting to becreative now, whereas I've beenmore of a technician up until now. Mypast work in the building trades hasmostly seen me working with designersthat didn't have much technicalknowledge and making theirconceptual work become buildable.I'd like to think that within theparameters of the equipment I eitherhave or know about and adjust adesign to be realistically produced.

Probably the most creatively fruitfulpractice I do is just closing my eyesand thinking about nothing. I wind upsewing in my mind, working out atricky sequence of construction - inan almost automatic way--then haveit blossom into a full design. Thestream of consciousness just beforesleep is a gold mine.

What details sets you jeans apart from the rest?

Maybe just the quality. It depends onwhat you are referring to as the rest.The spectrum is broad and I amdoing something unique if you wantto really parse the various categories.There are other individuals makingjeans, but there is no one else doingexactly what I am doing in that what Iproduce is a "factory" product actuallydesigned, drafted, graded, cut, sewn

and trimmed by one person.

By a "factory" product, I'm referencingthis thing we used to say at a shopwhere the two of us made almostanything you could imagine frommetal, wood and plastic. We'd say,"wow, that looks factory" meaningthat it was so clean that it couldn'thave been handmade by one person,yet it had. These could be the ends ofa scale: farm and factory. Thats whatI'm trying to do anyway; make avolume of factory quality handmadegoods by myself and have themshow my personality in the details,which is actually what you wereasking about. I sort of answered adifferent question there.

The details vary. I usually wind upwanting to use a machine that I'vebeen working on or fixing up andmaybe it does some special stitchand I'll work that in somewhere onthe jeans. That's how the shell stitchthing started. The same thing with theembroidered pockets.

You're a skater from Texas. Whendid you move to California?

Actually, I'm a skater from Arizona. Iwas born in El Paso and lived inDallas in 2nd and 3rd grade, but Iwent to high school in Phoenix andlearned to skate there. I moved to the

Bay Area a few years after getting

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out of school, when the skate scenein SF was the place to be. Thereshould really be an EMB movie oneday, like that Dogtown movie. MaybeMark Walberg could play JamesKelch. I had visited a cousin inBerkeley before and I knew it waswhere I wanted to live. I've been inOakland about 20 years now, soI consider myself from here now. Ihave more connection to this citythan any other.

Did you ever want to go pro?

Everybody wants to go pro. I wasn'teven close to good enough for that.Its a special kind of person that canskate at that level and not destroytheir body.

What is it about vintage sewingmachines that you dig so much?

I like old stuff in general becausemost older, metal things are madebetter. I can feel quality with myhands. I was buying a knife yesterdayat a knife store and I came in the doorasking for a cleaver that I could uselike the Yan Can Cook. Like how hechops and then picks it all up like alittle shovel. I have one now, but its

too thick and not really that greatfor my vegetables. The guy handedme a cleaver that looked right andwas the size I envisioned. I sort ofheld it and pretended to chop. I said,"how come it feels cheap?" He endedup giving me a lesson in knifemaking and selling me a reallyexpensive german, forged cleaverthat was in the back. As soon as I held it, I was sold.

What I'm getting at is that the oldmachines are really sweet and workwell. They don't go quite as fast asmodern stuff, but thats partly whythey work well. They feel good andthey feel like quality. I can't exactlyput into words what I feel when I puta hand on them. Every form of matteris vibrating; there is a resonance Ifeel with these machines.

Will Roy Denim ever expand toother goods, say, denim workshirts?

Well first, it's not "Roy Denim" it's justRoy. Somebody is holding Roy.comfor ransom so I had to have the webaddress roydenim.com. My friendwarned me that people would thinkthat was the moniker and I guess he

was right. I will definitely make otherthings. I already do, for myself andfriends. It's all a matter of getting thefabrics and the right machines tomake the items exactly as I wantthem to be for sale. I'm pretty slow atmaking shirts yet, so thats a hurdle. Itwas three years of listening to peoplearound here asking me when I wasgoing to start selling jeans before Iwas ready. I'm very impatient in otherrespects of my life, but apparently notthis. I'll do it soon though. There areso many different things I'd make if Icould get the fabrics and machines.It'll happen.

Whats a perfect day for Roy?

I would wake up and hear the din of aspontaneous parade in celebrationthat somebody had figured out whathell we're doing here. We'd spendthe day talking about this new GreatTruth and laughing at ourselves forfalling for all the other stuff. Picturebeing overjoyed because there'sanother human being standingbefore you to talk to. It would beperfect.

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Style // No. 003

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The Inward Morning by Henry David Thoreau

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hattiewatson.tumblr.com

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Store // No. 004

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How did you get started in thevintage business? And when wasyour first buying trip to the USfrom Japan?

I came to NYC to study English in1983 and to check out America. I didn'tlike early 80's mainstream music andfashion so I started to buyvintage/used clothes. It was cheaper,better quality, unique and cool towear. Not many people were intovintage at that time. One day I foundan industrial fan at a junk shop that Ithought was cool. I asked the priceand he gave it to me for free becausethe motor was broken. I ended updisplaying it in my apartment next toan old '50's fridge that came with therental. Then I just ended up buyingnecessities such as dishes and lightfixtures, etc. for my apartment since Ijust moved to NYC. I found all thesethings at the flea market, thrift andantique stores. That's when I discoveredthe quality of old things were moresuperior and had good design. In1983, I traveled across America on aTrailways bus. I made a couplefriends in L.A. and after I got back toNYC, one of my L.A. friend's friendfrom Japan came to NYC for the firsttime. He had a collectible/antiqueshop in Tokyo. When he visited my

apartment, he saw my fan and otherold stuff I had and really liked what Idid with them. So, he asked me tobuy/ship stuff and send it to Japan.That's how I started my business. Ididn't plan to come to America to dothis at all.

My first buying trip was in 1984 withtwo guys from Japan and a stationwagon. We drove from NYC down toFlorida, from there we went toAlabama, Tennessee, Missouri,Kansas, Illinois, Wisconsin, Ohio,Upstate New York and back. It tookalmost a month to travel through.Whenever the car filled up we wouldship everything to a shipping compa-ny in L.A. that forwarded everythingto Japan. We found lots of 50'sConverse and Keds sneakers, 40's-50's casual wear such asThunderbird and snowflake printedgabardine jackets, Rockabilly typeclothing and early 60's Ivy Leaguetype clothing such as white LEVI'S,cotton chinos, madras check shirts,etc. At the time, we saw a lot hippietype clothing but we didn't buy itbecause there wasn't a market for it.

Where did your interest in vintagecome from? Did you collect as achild?

I grew up in Yokohama, an internationalport city with US military bases. Mostof western culture came throughYokohama which influenced mygeneration. I was very interested inAmerican culture and clothes in 1972when I was 12 years old. At that time,Ivy League style was still popular inJapan although this type of clothingbecame popular in America in theearly 60's. Not many stores carriednew American brands and if they did,they were very expensive. Instead, Istarted buying American current(notvintage) used clothing such asLEVI'S, Lee, Wrangler, Maverick, OP,Hang Ten, Sundeck, Liberty Bell andSierra Designs. At that time, I didn'teven know what vintage was orlooked like. But sometimes I accidentallybought 40's-50's western shirts and60's denim. After I came to the US, Istarted to recognize the differencebetween new and old. Most '50'sclothing was made with 100% naturalfibers and most new Americanclothing in the 80's was made withmixed blends.


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EXTRA opened when?

June 2010

Please talk about what v intageEXTRA carries.

We carry some vintage flight, motorcycleand denim jackets. In addition, we carryfolk art, interesting found objects, lightfixtures, small furniture, sunglasses,space guns and toys, vintage skateboards(roller surfing), Whole Earth catalogs,photography books, vintage workwearsigns, blankets, quilts, blackboard map,paintings, totem poles, money clips,indian jewelry, vintage photos and vintage shoes and boots.

When did your interest in denim begin?

In the mid-'70's, I was interested inAmerican brand jeans such as LEVI'S andLee. After I came to the US, I becameinterested in vintage LEVI'S 501XX, Lee101-J and old painter pants, etc. I

discovered the color of indigo and realized the old ones had the best color.

You carry Post Overalls in the store. You'refriends with Takeshi Ohfuchi, right?Yes, I met Takeshi at a flea market in NYCaround 1986 before he started Post O'Allsand we became friends. He gave me a30's US Army denim shirt and introducedme to the world of workwear. One time wewent looking for vintage dead stock together.We nearly spent one month in the cartogether searching for stuff.

What other brands are available, and how/why did you chose them?

I carry only Post O'Alls right now.I respect Takeshi's knowledge ofvintage and his philosophy for makingclothing. I've been wearing Post since1993 since the company started. I don'twear replica brands or distressed made-to-look-old clothes. Even if Takeshi wasn'tmy friend, I would wear his clothes.

You're a surfer/skater. Do you still find

time for both? Where is your favoritesurf spot?In 1976, I went on a school trip toCalifornia and home stayed for a month.That was when I bought my first glassfiber skateboard. Since then, I startedskateboarding. From 1977, I started surf-ing until I came to the US in 1983.Nowadays, I skate with my sons some-times. But I'm really into surfing more now.My favorite surf spots are Long Beach NY,Cove New Jersey and Kamakura, Japan,but any tropical and exotic point is nice.

What are you digging in the storeright now?

I'm digging my folk art pieces andold photos.

What's in the future for yourselfand EXTRA? Maybe a Koji brand?

I'm a "let it be" kind of guy...something willnaturally happen. I don't plan my lifemuch.

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Style // No. 005

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alabamachanin.com

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Ride // No. 006

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I prepare a hot cup of tea to keep mefrom calling up Curtis to make surehe is awake and on his way over.Gas up the motorcycle, check theoil level, warm up the gloves in apocket...busy work.

When I started doing this regularly, Ionly carried a sleeping bag, twocameras, some film, and a change ofclothes. It was a simple solution tothe limited storage space a motorcycleallows. We all owned an elastic netand a couple bungee cords andcame up with new and elaborateways of storing our belongings whilestill maintaining some sort of comfort.Some of our rides called for 8-10hours of riding a day, and sometimes

that extra bit of whatever was just notnecessary. The unpredictable natureof necessity was always a wild card.

Curtis is here finally...I always thinkhe is late, but I check my watch andhe is on the dot. Time for a quickdonut around the corner, where wewill meet with the rest of the guys,hopefully none of them have come upwith an infinitely clever excuse forabsence. The simple and childishbreakfast has become a mainstay forthe road trips we take. For whateverreason, the sugar puts us all at anease and starts a conversation thatwill last for a few days. Comments onwho has brought far too much, or toolittle, are commonplace here. The

jesting is exactly what I need to startshooting and get into a groove withthe camera early on.

Yes, there were some long and coldnights, wrapped up in the bag ineverything I could wear, trying tokeep from waking anyone else withmy discomfort. Occasionally I wouldhear one of the other guys shift orshake, and remember I wasn't alonein this game. Often we'd surround thefire with the bikes, and sleep in thespace between the two, solving boththe elements of wind and cold. Evenstill I would wish for that extra blanketI left in the garage.


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We never really suffered much, you'dbe surprised how fine you are onceyou've sat in front of the rising sun fora few minutes. Over the past year ortwo, we've become a bit smarter inthat we've saved for some warmerand smaller bags, the occasional solo tent, and thicker socks.

75 miles into the ride, through themountains lining the California coast-line, my motorcycle dies. We areprobably 40 miles from anythingresembling a shop, so we all emptyour respective toolbags and sort outa makeshift set of jumper cables toget my bike enough juice to startback up. The ingenuity of roadnecessity is wonderful, you'll findyourself becoming MacGuyver quitequickly when faced with walking a500lb machine anywhere near thehorizon. This bike is over 30 yearsold, and has its quirks (as we all do),but I can't imaging myself reallygiving this one up. The mid-sized ver-tical twin motor has been in my

garage for a year, transforming ascash and time allows, and I love it alittle more every time I'm able to kickit to life. Even though it occasionallydecides to take a break on its own, Ilove it just the same.

I'd argue that wherever anybodylives, there is a destination worthgetting to within a few hours on theroad. Occasionally I'm told 'I wish Icould do what you are doing,' and Ialways respond with 'do it!' If it is foran afternoon or a weekend or amonth, via car or motorcycle, theroad will take you in, guide you to aplace of palpable beauty, and returnyou home a better individual. Thereisn't an excuse for putting it off. Notwhen our families today spendmore time watching television than anything else.

We wrap around the Eastern edge ofthe coastal range for a full tank ofgas, to a place known only tothose who inhabit it...The Petroleum

Highway. Many California nativesdon't know the full extent of the oil-rich history, and it is only truly evidentalong this stretch of highway. Themajor oil companies have pulledcrude up through this land for over100 years, and billions of barrels of it.The landscape is riddled with rigs ofvarious ages, and the smell of it fillsthe air for the entire stretch.

As we fill up, we realize that our tanksonly allow ~100 miles..and round tripfor our destination from the spot westand is 104-109 miles. We fill up acouple of water bottles with gas, andhope that only 1 of us needs it. Wechase the setting sun through thefoothills and enter Carrizo Plain whilecoasting the bikes through a windydownslope to conserve gas. Thetemperature is a good 10 degreeswarmer on the plain than in the hills,for which we are grateful as the nightbegins.

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As the last bits of twilight are on thewestern horizon, we race throughbeaten county roads towards acampground none of us has beento. This is often part of our adventures...the time when we hope that there isone last sign to help us get from themiddle of nowhere to the place we

intended to camp. The roads are nowunpaved messes, and we climbtowards Selby Rocks, near the camp-ground. A few sharp turns later wecruise into a half full campground.Not expecting the crowd in thisseemingly deserted part of California,we are informed that it is the first

weekend of the deer hunting season,and the early birds are ready. We settle our gear and our bikes forthe night, thankful for the safe arrival,the good company and another warmcan of chili.

Explore America.

sgtoepfer.com


Explore // No. 007

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Once known as the “CaliforniaRiviera”, the Salton Sea is now calledone of America’s worst ecologicaldisasters. This was one of the mostbarren and surreal landscapes I'veever set foot on. The scene is astagnant, salty lake, that coughs updead fish and birds by the thousandsin frequent die-offs that occur. Thewater is saltier than the Pacific ocean

and the only fish that can survive areTalapia which eventually die off andlitter the shoreline by the thousands.A small town exists of mobile homeparks and abandon run downbuildings. Wreckage of a flood thatwiped the town out in the 1950's hasnever been cleaned up and stillexists. The heat and the offensivesmell of dead fish was overwhelming.

You could literally taste the smell andthe salt. A white silt coated your body,clothes, and vehicles. The place hada very bizarre energy, maybe it wasthe heat but I felt a similar body highto a psychedelic experience. All of mysenses were torqued and although itwas sadly beautiful I was very happyto leave.

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Photography by Gustav Schmiege

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Adventure // No. 008

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I enjoy the unexpected and often findmyself intentionally getting lost just todiscover what was down that countrydirt road. It is this same sense ofwonder that led me to the field ofphotography. Traveling with a cameraheightened the experiences andallowed me to connect with thepeople and places I was discoveringin a more intimate way. I was now

experiencing the world, both in theeveryday and the fantastical placesthat exist in the imagination. Theinspiring souls I meet on this journey,fuel my desire to create.

“These are the days that must happento you”, is a line from the WaltWhitman poem Song of the OpenRoad. The celebration of time and

place are present within its verses, aswell as the challenge to discovermore outside of the confines of inkand paper. To him, the road representsa communal place where people fromall walks of life come together toshare a path of discovery. The roadalso signifies mobility, allowing one totravel to new places, spaces, statesof mind and land.

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I scoured websites daily, daydreamingof finding the perfect one. Aftermonths of this, I finally decided totake the plunge when I happenedupon a 1953 Boles Aero trailer. I hadseen this model of trailer a few othertimes in photographs, but it wasalways out of my price range. The

unique feature of this trailer is it’scedar lined interior, giving it a logcabin feel when you are inside. Thistrailer is pretty rare and thereforequite expensive. However, when Ifound this particular one at a decentprice, I knew it was meant to be mine!I convinced my boyfriend to take a

few days off of work and travel withme to California to retrieve it. After afew days of coaxing, he agreed andset out on his own search for a JeepWagoneer to pull the Boles home toOregon. A winning bid of a vintage‘Woody’ on ebay and we were on ourway to explore America!

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Then, a return trip with a scenic driveback up the coast. It is adventureslike these that bring a whole newmeaning to exploration for us. Themarriage of past and present allowedus to create new stories with a piece

of history. The eve before our tripbegan, I sat amidst a plethora ofmemories already made. A beautifulvintage trailer and jeep were purchasedfor an adventure comprised ofdesires. A time of leisure left room for

collaboration and companionship tobe free. This meant little preparationin destinations and maps to be full ofsurprises. With cameras in tow, anadventure of discovery awaited us outon the open road.

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dartphotographie.com

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Made // No. 009

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Who is K/LLER?

Michael: My name is Michael Miller (theLLER), I make jewelry with KatieMaguire deGuzman (the K).

Katie: Just deGuzman.

M: Just deGuzman.

So congrats on your first year.Pretty exciting.

K&M: Thanks! We're stoked.

Lets do some of the basic stuff,how long have you two knowneach other?

M: We've known each other since 2002.We met at Parsons through a friend.

K: I think it was Becka, my best friend,she said, "You seen that Michael?" Shewas dating the hot tech. So all the girlswere like, who's that girl dating the hottech? 'cause all the gays were trying to get on him.

Did you guys look weird back then?

M: Yeah way weirder than we do now.

K: Michael had a short faux hawk, thatwas always bleached down the middle.And she was always sewing up her earswith all kinds of crazy threads.

M: I would run a needle and threadthough the holes in my ears and itwould create a pattern.

K: And I had white girl dreads. Not hippydreads, more punk rock dreads, thoughI wasnt punk rock. They were multicolored and I wore shoes the size ofvolkswagon beatles.

M: You always had hover crafts on!

K: Fuckin huge shoes. The biggerthe better.

When did that end?

K: After college. After I growed up. OnceI finally decided you needed to kindalook pretty.

You guys were in the city atthe time?

K: Yeah. My first apartment was in thewest village with like a thousand girls.

M: I lived in Queens with my sister. Ididnt have a bedroom. I slept on a loftedbed in the living room with my littledog, Harlow.

I like hearing stuff like that. Becauseeverybody starts the same way,you know?

M: Yeah, it was awesome though, livingwith my sister.

You two weren't jewelry majors atschool were you? How'd you twoget into jewelry?

K: No. We studied furniture design, andI did a semester learning silversmithingin Glasgow. Early on, I got a job with agoldsmith and that's when I really beganlearning something about the jewelrymaking process. I also did some benchwork for Philip Crangi.


Now, K/LLER Collection is available at over 20 stores worldwide, including Eva Gentry, Sucre, Ten Over Six, GrangeHall, Need Supply, and coming in January, Helmut Lang. To find a stockist near you, visit KLLERCOLLECTION.COM

M: In school I had zero interest in jewelry.Never wore it growing up. Hated earings,the whole bit. I think the first piece ofjewelry I ever made were these thickvinyl bracelets, and the hot tech workedat a print shop and a guy he worked withprinted on the vinyl. I just wanted some-thing I could make and wear. A littleinstant gratification. Later, I fell in lovewith metalsmithing. Katie knew I wasinterrested in metals, and put me intouch with this girl, and I got a jobmetalsmithing and restoring furniture.

The two of you went out there andstarted working, designing for somepretty influential brands, and thenwhat happened?

K: There's really been something crazy

to it, because Michael and I have losttouch alot over the past 10 years, butsomething out there keeps pulling ustogether.

M: Yeah definitely! We'd sort of come inand out each other's lives, then last yearwe ran into each other, and we wereboth out of work. We didnt really knowwhat we were going to do. No direction.No plan. We met up one afternoon hadsome hummus and wine... and said,"Lets just make some jewelry and seewhat happens."

K: We had been hanging out makingjewelry for maybe a month, with no ideawhere the jewelry was going. Then Iwent into this store in Soho, and thischick liked the jewelry I was wearing

and I told her my partner and I designedit, and we were just about to launch aline. I was basically talking out of myass. And then she was all, "Cool, sendme a lookbook."

M: So suddenly it was like, "Shit! Weneed a lookbook!" So we picked aname, made a logo, and produced abook. What's funny is the actual dealdidn't even go though... but it was thatconversation that stimulated the launchof our line, and we literallly madeK/LLER happen in 3 days.

That's rad. Cheers to that then.

Made in the U.S.A,


refueled issue 8

Documents

music style adventureissue

music style adventurein

theconstruction of jeans

love of denim orclothes

people thatsome folks

roy denim

coastexploring america

issue of refueled