report on industrial attachment at texeurop (db) ltd

1

REPORT ON

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

AT

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD.

A REPORT

By

TARIKUL ISLAM

H. M. SIRAJ UDDIN

MD. TAUFIKUL ISLAM

MD. RIAZ MAHMUD

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

DHAKA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY

GAZIPUR-1700

From 06th

February to 03th

March 2016

2

REPORT ON

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

AT

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD.

A REPORT

By

TARIKUL ISLAM H. M. SIRAJ UDDIN

Student No: 115001 Student No: 115017

MD. TAUFIKUL ISLAM MD. RIAZ MEHMUD

Student No: 115028 Student No: 115044

Supervisor: Dr. Md. Abdus Shahid Associate Professor & Head

Department of Textile Engineering

Submitted to the

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

DHAKA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY,

GAZIPUR. In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of the degree

of

BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING

From 06th

February to 03th

March 2016

i

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER 1

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

1.1 Name of the Project

1

1.2 Type of the Project 1

1.3 Year of Establishment 1

1.4 Investors 1

1.5 Address 1

1.6 Location 2

1.7 Vision and Mission of the Project 3

1.8 History of the Project Development 3

1.9 Project Cost 3

1.10 Annual Turnover 4

1.11 Certification And Award 4

1.12 Project Layout 5

1.13 Physical Infrastructure 5

1.14 Production Type 6

1.15 Production Capacity 6

1.16 Final Products Name 7

CHAPTER 2

MANPOWER ORGANOGRAM

2.1 Manpower Organogram 8

2.2 Organogram of Production Section 9

2.3 Different Departments 10

2.4 Management Information System (MIS) 11

2.5 Information Medium 12

2.6 Responsibilities of General Manager 12

2.7 Responsibilities of Production Manager 12

2.8 Responsibilities of Production Officer 12

2.9 Responsibilities of Floor In-Charge 13

ii

CHAPTER 3

MACHINE DESCRIPTION

3.1 Knitting Section 14

3.1.1. Circular Knitting Section 15

3.1.2. Flat Knitting Section 17

3.1.3. Cloth Inspection Section 17

3.2 Dyeing Flore Layout Plan 18

3.2.1 Layout Indication 19

3.2.2 Layout Description 19

3.3 List of Machines 19

3.4 Specification of Different Machines 21

3.4.1 Dyeing Machine 21

3.4.2 Finishing Machinery 27

3.4.3 Garments Section 35

CHAPTER 4

RAW MATERIALS

4.1 Raw Material for Knitting 48

4.1.1 Raw Material for Knitting Section 48

4.2 Price of Raw Materials 48

4.2.1 Raw Material for Dyeing 50

4.3 Annual Requirements of Dyes 60

CHAPTER 5

LABORATORY

5.1 Laboratory 61

5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments 61

5.3 Laboratory Equipment‟s 61

5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries Are Used In Laboratory 61

5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries 62

5.6 Selection of Stock Solution for Lab Recipe 62

5.7 Ratio between Salt and Soda According To Shade Percentage 63

5.8 Order Flow Chart of Lab Dip 63

5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure 64

5.10 Flow Chart of Lab Dip Submission 64

5.11 Machine Program for Dyeing Procedure of Different Dyes in Lab 65

5.12 Calculation for Lab Dip Preparation 65

5.13 Color and Chemical Calculation 66

iii

CHAPTER 6

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND SEQUENCE OF

OPERATION

6.1 Names of the Buyers 67

6.2 Buyer‟s Requirements 69

6.3 Production Parameters 70

6.4 Production Flow Charts 71

6.4.1 Batching 71

6.4.2 Dyeing Section 73

6.4.3 Finishing Section 79

6.5 Occurring Faults and Instant Remedy 81

6.5.1 Faults & Remedies of Knitting Section 81

6.5.2 Faults of Dyeing, Their Causes and Remedies 82

6.5.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments Section 84

6.6 Quality Control Unit 84

6.6.1 Objectives of Quality Control 84

6.6.2 Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection 85

6.6.3 List of Equipment‟s 85

6.6.4 Name of the Test for Quality Assurance of Grey Fabrics 85

6.6.5 Procedure of GSM Measurement by GSM Cutter 85

6.6.6 Dyeing Quality Control 85

6.6.7 Quality Control of Finishing Section 86

6.6.8 Inspection Checking Points of Finishing 86

6.6.9 Line of Quality Control 87

6.6.10 Measurement of Fabric Width or Dia 87

6.6.11 Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage and Spirality) 88

6.6.12 Rubbing Fastness Test (Dry) Procedure 89

6.6.13 Color Fastness to Washing (ISO105:C06) 89

6.6.14 Quality Assurance Procedure 90

6.6.15 Quality Standard 90

6.6.16 Rejection Criteria for Body & Ribs 91

6.6.17 Rejection Criteria for Collar & Cuff 92

6.6.18 Finished Fabric Inspection 93

6.6.19 Inspection Checking Points 93

iv

CHAPTER 7

GARMENTS MERCHADISING

7.1 Introduction 94

7.2 Definition 95

7.3 Activities of Merchandising 96

7.4 Merchandising Activities on Quality Control 96

7.5 Scope of Marketing Activities of a Merchandiser 97

7.6 Flow Chart of a Merchandising Section 98

7.7 Garments Consumption and Costing 99

7.8 Major Buyer and Product Label 99

7.9 Product Label 100

7.10 Package Size & Label Market 101

7.11 Local Market 101

CHAPTER 8

CONTROL OF KNIT FABRIC PARAMETERS

8.1 Preparing Comparative Table for Different Required

and Performed Data on Dia, GSM, Shrinkage & Spirality 102

8.2 Relation Between Finished G.S.M. And

Yarn Count Of Variousfabrics 106

CHAPTER 9

GARMENTS SECTION

9.1 Introduction 107

9.2 Garments Making Sequence 107

9.3 Production Section 112

9.3.1 Different Sewing Machines SPI Range and Thread Consumption 112

9.3.2 Number of Machines Required as Per Products 112

9.3.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments 112

9.3.4 Total Production in Sewing Section 113

9.3.5 Production Time and Cost 113

9.4 Different Calculation Related to Production Efficiency 113

9.5 Processes Sequence of T-Shirt Making 115

v

CHAPTER 10

MAINTENANCE

10.1 Objectives of Maintenance 116

10.2 Organogram of Maintenance Section 117

10.3 Maintenance of Machinery 117

10.4 Economic Consideration of Maintenance 118

10.5 Maintenance Flow Chart 118

10.6 Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance 119

10.7 Functions of Maintenance Personnel 119

10.8 Maintenance Tools/Equipment‟s & Their Functions 120

Maintenance Procedure 121

10.10 The Following Tasks are generally done during Maintenance 122

Maintenance Schedule of the Machines 122

CHAPTER 11

UTITLITY SERVICES

11.1 Essential Utility and Source 125

11.2 Functions of Utility 125

11.3 Electricity 126

11.4 Power Consumption of Different Sections 127

11.5 Water 127

11.6 Water Supply Details 128

11.7 Hardness Test Method 128

11.8 Calculation 128

11.9 Steam Supply 128

11.10 Compressed Air Supply 130

11.11 Specification of Compressor 130

11.12 Gas 131

11.13 Cost of Different Utilities 131

CHAPTER 12

STORE & INVENTORY


12.2 Objectives of Inventory Control 132

12.3 Scope of Inventory Control 132

12.4 Frequency of Inventory Update 133

12.5 Inventory Procedure 133

12.6 Inventory Control System for Raw Materials 133

vi

12.7 Grey fabric store 133

12.8 Stages of Grey Fabric Inventory Control 134

12.9 Inventory Control System for Finished fabric 134

12.10 Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control 135

12.11 Inventory Control System for Spare Parts 135

CHAPTER 13

COST ANALYSIS


13.2 Costing Of the Product 136

13.3 Price of the Product 137

13.4 Price Range of Different Products 137

13.5 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics 137

13.6 Dyeing Charge of Different Fabrics 137

13.7 Finishing Charge of Different Fabrics 138

13.8 Costing Of the Product 138

CHAPTER 14

WATER & EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

14.1 Process Sequence of WTP 140

14.2 Determination of Hardness of water 142

14.1.1 Objectives of ETP 143

14.1.2 Requirement of discharge effluent as per World Bank 143

14.1.3 Chemical used 144

14.1.4 Chemical using procedure 144

14.1.5 Product Quality Check 144

14.1.6 Typical Output of the Plant 144

14.1.7 Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment 144

vii

LIST OF TABLE

Table 3.1 Total no of machine at a glance 15

Table 3.2 Specification of circular knitting machine 15

Table 3.3 Specification of flat knitting machine 17

Table 3.4 Specification of Twill tape knitting machine 17

Table 3.5 List of machines 19

Table 3.6 Setting according to fabric construction 29

Table 3.7 Settings Stenter machine 31

Table 3.8 Diaminosoftware 37

Table 3.9 List of machineries 39

Table 3.10 Machine of finishing section 47

Table 4.1 The frequently count of yarn used in the factory 48

Table 4.2 Price and Source of Raw Materials 49

Table 4.3 Chemicals & Auxiliaries 53

Table 4.5 List of dyes 55

Table 5.1 Specification of lab dip machine 62

Table 5.2 Selection of stock solution for lab recipe 62

Table 5.3 Ratio between salt and soda according to shade percentage 63

Table 5.4 Machine programs for different dyeing procedure 65



Table 6.3 Defect of knitted fabric, their causes and remedies 81

Table 6.4 Run the program in the following way 90

Table 6.5 Four point grading system 91

Table 6.6 Grading calculation based on Points 91

Table 6.7 Rejection criteria for body & ribs 91

Table 6.7 Rejection criteria for collar & cuff 92

Table 8.1 For single jersey fabric 102

Table 8.2 For lycra-single jersey fabric 103

Table 8.3 For Lycra pique 104

Table 8.4 For (1×1) rib 105

Table 8.5 Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of s/j and rib fabric106

Table 8.6 Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of knitted fabrics 106

Table 8.7 Relation between GSM and yarn count of fleece fabric and

double lacoste 106

Table 9.1 SPI range & thread consumption 112

Table 9.2 Production time and cost 113

Table 9.3 Processes sequence of t-shirt making 115

Table 10.1 Maintenance tools/equipment & their functions 120

viii

Table 10.2 Maintenance of Stenter machine 121

Table 11.1 Essential Utility and Source 125

Table 13.1 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics 137

ix

LIST OF FIGURE

Fig 1.1 Location of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. 2

Fig 1.2 Satellite View of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. 2

Fig 1.3 Project Layout 5

Fig 2.1 Manpower organogram of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. 8

Fig 2.2 Organogram of production section 9

Fig 2.3 Order flow sequence 11

Fig 3.1 Layout of dyeing and finishing section 18

Fig 3.2 Hydro extractor machine 27

Fig 3.3 Silting machine 28

Fig 3.5 Stenter machine 31

Fig 3.6 Compactor machine 32

Fig 3.7 Schematic diagram of the compactor machine with

the fabric flowing path 33

Fig 3.8 Sueding machine 34

Fig 3.9 Dizit Board 35

Fig 3.10 Plotter machine 35

Fig 3.11 Pattern cutter machine 35

Fig 3.12 Straight knife 38

Fig 3.13 Band knife 39

Fig 3.14 Chain stitch Machine 41

Fig 3.15 Lock stitch Machine 42

Fig 3.16 Button holing machine 43

Fig 3.18 Bartaking Machine 44

Fig 3.19 Overlock Machine 45

Fig 6.1 Processing curve for dark Color 74

Fig 6.2 Processing curve for white Color 76

Fig 6.3 Processing curve for Turquois Color 78

Fig 6.4 Flow chart of the finishing process 80

Fig 6.5 Rubbing fastness test (dry) procedure 89

x

Fig 9.1 Garments pattern and component 107

Fig 9.2 Sample of a T-Shirt 108

Fig 9.3 Marker making 109

Fig 9.4 Sewing or assembly 110

Fig 9.5 Garments inspection 111

Fig 9.6 Final inspection 111

Fig 10.1 Organogram of maintenance section 117

Fig 10.2 Maintenance of machinery 117

Fig 14.1 Water Reserve Tank 141

Fig 14.2 Different tanks of WTP process 141

xi

ACKWOLADGEMENT

The internship opportunity we had with “Texeurop (BD) Ltd” was a great chance for learning

and professional development. Therefore, we considered our self as a very lucky individual as

we was provided with an opportunity to be a part of it. We are also grateful for having a chance

to get many knowledge about the project during our internship period.

At first we would like to thank our gratitude to Associate professor Dr. Md. Abdus Shahid

Head of the Department of Textile Engineering and also express our deepest thanks to him for

taking part in useful decision & giving necessary advices, guidance and arranged all facilities to

make our internship easier. We choose this moment to acknowledge his contribution gratefully.

We would like to give thanks the Management & Human Resources Department of “The

Texeurop (BD) Ltd.” for giving us the opportunity to make our industrial attachment at the

Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

We are also grateful to Engr. Md. Shahidul Alam Muzumder, General Manager (Dyeing),

Texeurop (BD) ltd.

At last our thanks to the Supervisors, Technicians, Operators & all the other staffs of Texeurop

(BD) Ltd. who are most helpful to us.

1

CHAPTER 1

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

1.1 Name of the Project : TEXEUROP (BD) LTD.

1.2 Type of the Project : Composite knit fabrics & garments (with dyeing &

finishing) factory. (100% export oriented industry).

1.3 Year of Establishment : 2004

1.4 Investors : Mr. Md. Abdul Mazid Khan

Managing Director.

A major portion of project cost is financed by Dutch-Bangla Bank ltd.

1.5 Address:

Factory & Corporate office:

Vogra, Joydebpur Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Tel. : +880-2-9261986, 9261988, 9261993, 9262163-4, 9262701-2,

Fax : +880-2-9261582

E-mail : [email protected]

Website : www.texeuropbangladesh.com

2

1.6 Location

Fig 1.1: Location of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Fig 1.2: Satellite View of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Vogra Joydevpur

Chowrasta

Tangail road

North

Dhaka-Mymensingh Road

South

Texeurop

(BD) Ltd.

3

1.7 Vision and Mission of the Project:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is a Composite Knit Dyeing Factory that producing &

manufacturing Knitted Fabric and Garments with a mission to be one of the leading

exporters by providing the good quality knitted garments from Bangladesh to various

customers around the globe.

It‟s the policy of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. to ensure:

a. Customer satisfaction by all means.

b. Providing quality product as per requirement of the buyer.

c. Ensuring quality services in communication & timely delivery of the product.

d. To decrease the percentage of rework.

e. Evaluate the suppliers on yearly basis.

f. Give safe and hygienic working environment to workers.

g. Improve continually in the Quality Management System with every year to

come.

h. Reducing environmental pollution with proper treatment of effluents.

i. Providing a better working environment for both employers and employees by

strictly following rules & regulation of various complains issues.

1.8 History of the Project Development:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has been established with the objective and vision to satisfy the

needs of 21st century of worldwide knit apparels markets from one stop service being

committed to One-time Delivery, Quality Assurance, Price Affordability and Social

Accountability. Basically Pantex garments factory was the mother textile at

Narayangonj of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. from which the factory was expanded with

collaboration of European partner. The project is located in Vogra Joydebpur under

the district of Gazipur, about 25 km distance from the International Airport Dhaka,

Bangladesh. A well-developed Road Communication is there to reach the factory

from the Airport as well as from the Dhaka City.

1.9 Project Cost:

The initial cost of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. establishment is about 400 million Taka. But

the gradual enlargement & enhancement of the mill increasing the project cost. So it

is very difficult to measurement the actual cost of the project.

4

1.10 Annual Turnover:

Annual turnover of the factory is approximately Tk 140 core.

1.11 Certification and Award:

There are several buyer(s) / their representative conduct social audit in this factory

and found the results are satisfactory. The following buyers/ their representative

conduct social audit:

1. SGS conduct audit on 30.11.2005 for Okaidi and found results are satisfactory.

2. H & M conduct their first audit on 31.07.2006 and found results are

satisfactory. They also had done a follow-up audit on 24.04.2007.

3. Omega Compliance had done an audit on 29.01.2007 for Kwintet AB and

found satisfactory.

4. CSCC had done an audit on 14.03.2007 for MAD Engine Inc. and found

satisfactory.

5. It‟s had done an audit on 15.05.2007 for Cotton Group based on BSCI and

found results are satisfactory.

6. BKMEA had done an audit on 15.07.2007 and found results are satisfactory.

7. CSCC had done an Audit based on buyer‟s code of conduct for Street One on

17.02.2008 and results are satisfactory.

8. BKMEA had done an audit on 05.04.2008 and found results are satisfactory.

9. H&M had conducted their follow up audit on 05.05.2008.

10. TUV SUD had conducted an audit based on buyers COC for MPL. On dated

22.06.2008 & 23.06.2008 and found results are satisfactory.

11. H&M had conducted a Full Audit Program on dated 02.11.2008 and we

achieved “Yellow” Assessment.

12. Intertek had conducted an audit in the Global Security Verification Program.

A comprehensive Supply Chain Security verification to determine the

minimum security measures, as published by the U.S Bureau of Customs and

Border Protection on dated January 04, 2009. and they found that we had

implemented and maintained throughout the facility and scored Green

Certificate.

5

13. WAL-MART had conducted an Ethical Standards audit on dated March 03,

2009 and we received a “Yellow” Assessment certificate.

14. CSCC (A STR Company) had conducted a Social audit on dated March 14,

2009 for Street One, GmbH and results scored “Acceptable”\

15. CSCC (A STR Company) had conducted a Social Audit on dated April 01,

2009 for Redcats Group and we scored rating 98% as “Acceptable” grading.

16. H&M had conducted a follow-up audit on 05.05.2009.

1.12 Project Layout:

Fig 1.3: Project Layout

1.13 Physical Infrastructure:

The factory is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the

mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guardrooms & dining

room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick Martials. . The whole area is

surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set up for m/c‟s are built of corrugated iron

& iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation & scope for passing

light & air.

6

Total area of the industry : 12500 sq. Meter

Factory land area : 10000 sq. Meter

Building : 8 Storied.

Floor space (Knitting) : 5000 SFT

Floor space (Dyeing &Finishing) : 20,000 SFT

1.14 Production Type:

a) Knitted grey fabrics : Plain single jersey, Heavy Jersey, Polo Pique, Lacoste, Rib

&Interlock double jersey , Drop needle, 2/3 Thread fleece(Brushed/ Un-brushed),

Collar & cuff etc.

-100%Cotton

-100%Polyester -Grey mélange (15% viscose + 85% cotton,

30% viscose + 70% cotton

10% viscose + 90% cotton

1% viscose + 99% cotton)

-Cheap value of cotton

-Polyester-Cotton blends.

b) Knit Garments: T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweat shirt, Golf shirt, Cardigan, Jogging suit,

Short/Trouser, Legging, Fashion dress & Children wears etc.

1.15 Production Capacity:

Knitting Section: 4-5.5 tons/day.

Dyeing Section: 25 tons/day

Garments Section: 20,000 pcs/day.

7

1.16 Final Products Name:

a. Basic T - Shirt, d. Long Sleeve T - Shirt, g. Hood Jacket,

b. Polo Shirt, e. Knit Jacket, h. Infant Knitwear

c. Ladies Jacket, f. Kids Jacket,

Remarks:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Is a Modern textile industry. Every facility of a modern textile

factory exists in this factory. It has a no. of renowned buyers especially at Europe. So

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is getting popular throughout the Textile sectors and its buyers.

This Factory has a good communication system from the capital city Dhaka.

8

CHAPTER 2

MANPOWER MANAGEMENT

2.1 Manpower Organogram:

Fig 2.1: Manpower organogram of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Chairman

GM

(Dyeing)

GM

(Operation)

Managing

Director

Manager (Compliance)

AM

(Admin)

AGM

(Production)

AGM (Accounts)

AGM

(Store)

Manager (Commercial)

Manager

(Quality)

AGM

(Fabric)

AGM

(Maintenance)

Manager

(Dyeing)

9

2.2 Organogram of Production Section:

Fig 2.2: Organogram of production section

GM

(Dyeing)

Director

(Production)

QC.

Technician

Asst.

Technician

QC. Officer

Helper

Asst. Lab

Technician

Lab

Technician

Asst. Lab

Officer

Lab Officer

GM

(Operation)

In charge

(Cutting)

AGM

(Garments)

Operator

Supervisor

Manager

(Cutting)

Helper

Operator

Line

Supervisor

Line In

charge

In charge

(sewing)

Manager

(sewing)

Manager

Maintenance

AGM

(Maintenance

)

Asst.

Supervisor

Supervisor

Maintenance

Officer

Helper

Operator

In charge

(Finishing)

Supervisor

Helper

Operator

Manager

(dyeing)

Production

Officer

Asst. Manager

In charge

Helper

Operator

Asst. Supervisor

Supervisor

Asst. Supervisor

Sr. Production

Officer

10

2.3 Different Departments:

a. Knitting section

Knitting

Inspection

b. Dying section

Batch section

Dye house

Dyeing Lab

Quality Control

Finishing

c. Garments Section

Merchandising

Sample

d. Maintenance Section

Electrical

Mechanical

e. Store Section

Supporting Departments

a. Personnel Administration

b. HRD

c. Marketing

d. Procurement

e. Finance and accounting

f. Security department

11

2.4 Management Information System (MIS):

There are three shifts of working in the mill .the most of the top level officers do their

job in general shift .But the others have to do their job in alternate shifts. There are

two dyeing managers in dyeing section do day shift. One Asst. dyeing manager do

constant A shift. Three Sr. production officers do alternate shifting duty and four

production officers do alternate shifting duty also.

Shift arrangement are as follows:

General Shift : 9.00am-5.00pm

A Shift : 6.00am-2.00pm

B Shift : 2.00pm-10.00pm

C Shift : 10.00pm-6.00am

Order Flow Sequence:

G.M

A.G.M

D.M

D.A.M

Sr. P.O

P.O

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

Fig 2.3: Order flow sequence

12

2.5 Information Medium:

● Intercom telephone ● Oral ● Fax

● Mobile ● Written letters

2.6 Responsibilities of General Manager:

To discuss with the buyer or party for order

To control dyeing and finishing floor.

To control lab and Q.C.

To control all manpower

2.7 Responsibilities of Production Manager:

To plan the production schedule with capacity and volume of order.

To observe dyeing finishing.

To supervise senior production officer and production officer.

To rectify any kinds of problems during dyeing.

To match shade as required.

2.8 Responsibilities of Production Officer:

To preparation and pH check.

Control of supervisor, operator, assistant operator & helper.


To find out dyeing and fabric fault as early as possible.

To recover the finished fabric this is rejected from quality department.

To register each batch dyeing condition.

To check daily production report.

To check water level in dyeing stage.

To maintain connection with finishing and quality control department.

To maintain connection with maintenance department etc.

Check recipe.

Batch

13

2.9 Responsibilities of Floor In-Charge:

To check Lab recipe and Prepare Production Recipe.

Batch preparation and pH check.

Control of supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing floor.


To find out dyeing and fabric fault as early as possible.

Remarks:

Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault

of any machine they fix and work under technical in-charge. Production officers‟

takes account of daily production by running after the two supervisors and workers so

on.

14

CHAPTER 3

MACHINE DISCRIPTION

Introduction:

Texeurop (BD) LTD. is an integrated computerized company. It has total 23 dyeing

machines among of them 13 machines are known as sample dyeing machine on the

basis of their production capacity. The machines are controlled by high skilled

operators. On the other hand Knitting section contains 45 machines, among of them

23 are circular knitting machine, 4 are Auto stripe machines, 5 are flat bed machines

for collar and cuff and another 3 are Twill tape machine.

3.1 Knitting Section:

Process requirements:

In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. three types of machines are used for producing and inspecting

knitted fabrics.

These are:-

1) Circular knitting machine (Single& Double Jersey Machine).

2) Flat knitting Machine (Cuff & Collar).

3) Fabric inspection machine

And the whole knitting section is divided in four sections,

1. Circular knitting section

2. Flat knitting section

3. Fabric inspection section

4. Store section

15

Table 3.1: Total no of machine at a glance

M/c type Total no of machine Ground total

Single jersey 13

45

Rib 04

Fleece 06

Auto Stripe 04

Flat bed 15

Twill tape 03

3.1.1. Circular Knitting Section:

This section contains 27 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of

different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications.

In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different

specifications of different machines are given one after another

Table 3.2: Specification of circular knitting machine

M/c no Brand of

machine

Origin of

machine M/c type

Dia

(inch) Gauge

No of

needle

No of

feeder

01 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan Rib 36 18 2040*2 72

02 JIUNN


03 JIUNN


04 JIUNN


05 - 08 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan

Single

jersey 36 24 1740 69

16

09-10 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan

Single

jersey 34 24 1812 72

11 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan

Single

jersey 24 24/20 1872 75

12 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan

Single

jersey 28 24 2112 84

13-15 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan

Single

jersey 30 24 2256 90

16-17 ORIZIO Italy Single

jersey 30 28 1680 72

18-19 GOANG

LIH Taiwan Fleece 36 20 2256 102

20-21 GOANG


22 GOANG


23 GOANG


Auto Stripe

24-26 Lisky Taiwan

Single

jersey 4

color

28 24/22 1344 70

27 Lisky Taiwan

Single

jersey 4

color

36 24/28 1420 90

17

3.1.2. Flat Knitting Section:

Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section

there are 5 flat knitting machines, all of them are same type and also have same

specification. The specification of all machines is given below.

Table3.3: Specification of flat knitting machine

Serial no Machine

brand

Country

of origin

Maximum

width

Machine

type

Machine

gauge

No of

feeder

01 -05 JIUNN

LONG Taiwan 68” V-Bed 14 8

06-15 JIUNN

LONG China 40” V-Bed 14 8

Table3.4: Specification of Twill tape knitting machine

Serial no Machine brand Country of origin No of head

01-03 Nobletex China 10

3.1.3. Cloth Inspection Section:

In cloth inspection section one machines is available. Specification of this machines is

given below.

Type Cloth Inspection Machine

Manufacturer name Uzu fabric Inspection

Country Thailand

Model No. UZ 900.31

18

3.2 Dyeing Flore Layout Plan:

8 7 6 5

4 3

2 1

10 11 12 13 14 15

17

20

19

18

5 9

Exit

16

24

21 22 23

25

30 26

31

32

27 28

29

33 34 35

Exit

37

38

North

West East

South

South

Fig 3.1: Layout of dyeing and finishing section

19

3.2.1 Layout Indication:

Name of Machine Machine Number

Dyeing (Sample & Bulk) : 1-20, 38

Slitting m/c : 21-22

Squeezer : 23

Hydro-extractor : 24

Dryer : 25

Tube Compactor : 26

Stenter m/c : 27-28, 37

Open Compactor : 29-30

Sueding : 31

Calendar : 32

Inspection Table : 33-34

Shrinkage Table : 35

3.2.2 Layout Description:

Machine

No.

Capacity

(kg)

Machine

No.

Capacity

(kg)

Machine

No.

Capacity

(kg)

01 10 07 1500 13 750

02 60 08 2000 14 600

03 120 09 1120 15 560

04 280 10 1500 16 30

05 150 11 500 17 30

06 250 12 1000 18 & 19 10

37 2400

20

3.3 List of Machines:

Table3.5: List of machines

Department Machine type No. of machine

Grey Fabric Store &

inspection

Fabric inspection machine 1

Batching Turning machine 02

Overlock machine 03

Dyeing floor

Sample dyeing machine

all are high pressure

10

Winch dyeing machine

(Atmospheric) Bulk

08

Winch dyeing machine (High

temperature) Bulk

05

Dark Room Light Box 03

Lab

Lab Dip Machine 03

Electric Pipet 02

Electric Balance 02

Spectrophotometer(Data Color) 01

Computer 01

Printer 01

Philips Hot Iron 01

Washing Machine 01

Tumble Dryer 03

GSM Cutter 03

Crock meter (wet & dry Rub) 01

21

PH

Meter 01

Dryer 01

Washing Section

Washing Machine 07

Hydro Extractor 01

Tumble Dryer 03

Finishing Section

Hydro extractor 01

Squeezer 01

Slitting & Dewatering machine 02

Dryer(tube) 01

Tube Compactor 01

Open Compactor 02

Stenter 02

Stenter (Mahlo) 01

Calendar 01

Brushing machine 01

Sueding Machine 01

3.4 Specification of Different Machines:

3.4.1 Dyeing Machine:

Dyeing Machine Fongs-01, 02, 03, 04:

Type : Small production Dyeing Machine

Name : Jet Dyeing Machine

Manufacturer name : FONG‟S

Country : HONGKONG

Temp. Range : 00-140

0C

Used Utilities Water, Steam, Electricity, Compressed Air

22

No. of Nozzle : 1, 1, 1, 1

Production Capacity : 10 Kg, 60 Kg, 120 Kg, 280 Kg

Winch speed : 250-300 m/min

Dyeing Machine Fongs-05:

Name : Dyeing Machine

Type : Jet Dyeing Machine


Country : HONGKONG

Model No. : ECO-38-1T


0C


No. of Motor : 7

No. of Nozzle : 1

Production Capacity : 150 Kg





Country : HONGKONG

Model No. : HSJ-2T


0C


No. of Motor : 7

No. of Nozzle : 1



23




Country : HONGKONG



0C


No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 6






Country : HONGKONG



0C


No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 8

Production Capacity : 2000 K



Type : HT/HP Dyeing Machine


Country : HONGKONG

24

Model No. : HSJ-4T


0C


No. of Motor : 13

No. of Nozzle : 4






Country : HONGKONG



0C


No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 6






Country : HONGKONG


Year of manufacturing : 2003

Temp. Range : 00-1400C


25

No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 2






Country : HONGKONG




0C


No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 4






Country : HONGKONG




0C


26

No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 4


Sample Dyeing Machine Fongs-14:




Country : HONGKONG



0C


No. of Motor : 8

No. of Nozzle : 4


Dyeing Machine-15:


Type : HT/HP Dyeing Machine


Country : HONGKONG

Model No. : GN-6-2T


0C


No. of Motor : 13

No. of Nozzle : 4

27


Dyeing Machine Fongs-16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22:

Type : Sample Dyeing Machine

Name : Jet Dyeing Machine


Country : HONGKONG


0C


No. of Nozzle : 1, 1, 1, 1, 1

Production Capacity : 30 Kg, 30 Kg, 10 Kg, 10 Kg, 10 Kg





Country : HONGKONG




0C


No. of Motor : 12

No. of Nozzle : 8

3.4.2 Finishing Machinery:

01. Hydro extractor machine:

28

Model : Local.

RPM : 700-746(max).

Extraction % : 60%(approx.)

Use : Loose structure fabric like rib, interlock etc.

Capacity : 3000kg

Fig

3.2: Hydro extractor machine

02. Slitting machine:

Function:

To cut the tubular fabric for opening.

To check the fabric fault.

Rubber pressure roller removes a slight amount of water.

Softener can be at the tank.

Utility Used: Air, Water, Electricity.

Main points:

Speed: 100 m/min.

For single jersey fabric line

speed is maintained as 5 m/min.

For other fabric line speed is

maintained as 1 m/min.

Production capacity: 7000kg/day

Fig 3.3: Silting machine

29

04. Squeezer:

Main parts:

Revolving platform.

J-box squeezer.

Detwisting unit.

Stretching unit(for adjusting dia)

1st tank to remove dust, hairy fiber etc.

Over feed system.

2nd tank to apply different chemical

finishes like flame retardant, softener,

and fixer.

Speed : 80 m/min(max)

Pressure of 1st padder : 3

Pressure of 2nd padder : 4-5

Water extraction% : 36-40%

Capacity : 7000kg

Fig 3.4: Squeezer machine

04. Dryer machine:

Function:

To dry the fabric properly.

To dry the fabric without tension.

To gain the finished GSM.

Specially used for Lycra, piping, twill tape, Rib collar.

Main parts:

1. Heat chamber. (3)

2. Burner. (3)

3. Blower. (6)

4. Exhaust fan.

30

5. Synthetic blanket.

6. Folding device.

Steam pressure: 5.5 Kg/sq. cm (

Speed: 45 m/min (max)

Blower Speed: 230 rpm (max)

Table3.6: Setting according to fabric construction

Fabric type Speed

(m/min)

Temperature

(0C)

Overfeed Speed

(%)

Single jersey 14-16 140 20

Interlock 10 140 25-30

Rib 12-13(220 gsm),

9-10(250 gsm)

140

150

15-20

14-16

T/C, P/C, Viscose 20-23 130 20-25

Lacoste 30 140 20-25

Collar 12 160 20-25

Lycra fabric 17 130 15-20

05. Stenter machine (4 chamber):

For Lycra fabric Heat setting is available only.

Width is set in such a way so that it gives the required GSM & shrinkage.

Suitable for open compactor.

Course and wales become align and even distribution by Mahlo in the feed

side i.e. to ….minimize Bias& Boeing problem.

For Rib Fabric blower speed is less due to its loose structure.

8 burner, 4 chamber, 8 blower.

In case of heavy fabric temp 2100C and for light fabric it is 180-190

0C .

Maximum width is not used because pin penetration is difficult and chains are

locked.

31

Over feed speed is maintained as per delivery speed so that it can give the

desired quality.

Temperature control depends on shade condition.

In every chamber fabric width should be same.

Glue is used along the selvedge to prevent curling.

Two set of panders with tank are used to apply chemical finishes & squeezing.

Padder pressure must be controlled carefully.

Controlling points:

Fabric speed.

Fabric width.

Temperature.

Over feeding speed.

Utility used:

Gas.

Electricity.

Steam.

Fig: 3.5: Stenter machine

Table3.7: Settings Stenter machine

Fabric type Over feeding

(%)

Temperature

(0C)

Speed

(m/min)

Blower Speed

Single

jersey

65% 140-150 20-30 60

Rib 50% 170-190 20-30 35-45

Interlock 55% 160-170 20-30 40-45

Lacoste 50% 145-150 20-30 45-55

T.C 60% 190 20-30 40-50

P.K. 50% 140-150 20-30 50

32

For heat-setting overfeed % is kept 20%.

For heat-setting temperature is kept 1800-185

0ċ.

Overfeed%: Fabric↑ tension ↓ Shrinkage ↓ GSM ↑

Machine Specification:

Brand name : Ferraro

Type/model no : COMPTEX-RE 2800.

Company : Italy

No of motor : 08

Over feed : 35%

Machine speed : 80 m/min

Speed range : 30-40m/min

Temperature range : 100-1500C

Maximum width : 86”

Minimum width : 36”

Applied for : Open fabric

Left over feed : -20%→+20%

Right over feed : -20%→+60%

High production : -20%→+60%

Front over feeding cylinder : -20%→+60%

Production Capacity : 24 tons/day

06. Open compactor:

Functions:

To impart dimensional stability.

To provide better cohesion.

To obtain required width and

G.S.M.

Main parts:

Heated cylinder (steam)

Steaming device.

Blanket.

Fig 3.6: Compactor machine

33

Teflon roller.

Sensor.

Overfeed % : up to 50%.

Steam pressure : 5-6 bar

.

Schematic Diagram of Compactor or Open Width Finishing

Machine:

Fig 3.7: Schematic diagram of the compactor machine with the fabric flowing path

07. Tube Compactor:

Functions:

To minimize the shrinkage.

Overfeed given to achieve the finished gsm.

Hairy Fibers can be removed to improve the handle.

Spirality& Boeing can be minimized.

Special finishing machine:

01. Sueding:

A sueder is sometimes referred to as a sander since the machine consists of one or

more rolls covered with sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics traveling over these rolls

develop a very low pile and the material's surface can be made to feel like suede

Tension

Feeder Damping

Cylinder

Cylinder

Blanket Tension

Roller

Blanket

Cooling

Cylinder

Guide Rollers

Swinging Frame

with rollers

34

leather. The hand will depend on the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn

and the intensity with which the fabric is worked.

Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will have a

softer hand. It also known as pitch finish or carbon finish.

Tasks:

To develop soft feeling at the face side.

To increase the aesthetic properties on the garments

To provide warm feeling to the garments.

Sueding machine:

Machine quantity : 01

Brand : Unitech- Santalucia

Model : 10 GS X 1952

Origin : Italy

Voltage : 400 V

Normal Current: 96 amp.

No of Pile : 03

No of Counter-Pile : 03

Setting Point :

Taker-in-Tension (14 K/g)

Drum Tension (47 K/g)

Fig: 3.8: Sueding machine

02. Raising machine:

Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing process of lifting a layer of fibers from

the body of the fabric which stand out from the surface. Raising is most commonly

done for Fleece fabric.

Tasks:

To provide warm and smooth feeling.

To satisfy the buyer needs like heavy, medium & light brushing.

35

To produce a heavier surface made of fibers.

Machine specification:

Brand name : I KVANG M/C Works Ltd.

Type/model no : RG2-200

Country : Taiwan

No of motor : 04

No of pile roller : 35

Speed of main drum : 50 rpm

Manpower Required : Worker: 05

Production Capacity : 2 tones/day

Actual production : 1.5 tones/day

Utility : Electricity, Compressed air

Remarks:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has different type of dyeing machines for small to large scale

production. As the quality of the machineries of dyeing, finishing & testing section

are good, so the quality level of the product is also good. The machines are controlled

by skilled and experienced operators. The machines are erected at the dyeing floor at

two rows at a well-planned manner that facilitates loading and unloading of the fabric

on the machines.

3.4.3 Garments Section:

Here the machines are categorized by the concerned section. These are section of the

TEXEUROP BD Ltd garments section.

Sample section Cutting section

Sewing section Finishing section

Sample Section

CAD Room:

CAD room has the following machine:

36

01. Dizit board-copy the hand

marking pattern

Fig 3.9 : Dizit Board

02. Printer:

a. consumption(mini print)

b. plotter(big print)

Fig-3.10: Plotter machine

03. Pattern cutter machine:

Brand: Winda

Fig-3.11: Pattern cutter machine

04. Software:

a. Madarite software (for design+parts+grading)

b. Diaminosoftware (for marker making)

Table 3.8: Diaminosoftware

37

SL

NO

MACHINE TYPE NO OF

MACHINE

DESCRIPTION

O1 PAIN MACHINE (LOCK STITCH) 57 1 NEEDLE

02 OVERLOCK MACHINE 27 4 THREAD (2

NEEDLE,2 LOOPER)

03 FLAT LOCK MACHINE 22 3,4,5 THREAD

04 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE

05 BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE

06 BARTACT MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE

07 SNAP MACHINE 1

08 PREQUITTING MACHINE 2 2/4 NEEDLE

09 RIB CUTTING MACHINE 1

10 FEED OF THE ARM 1

11 KANSAI SPECIAL(CHAIN STITCH) 2 SPECIAL

12 KANSAI SPECIAL(BACK TAP) 1 SPECIAL

13 KANSAI SPECIAL(SMOKE

MACHINE)

7 SPECIAL

=124

Cutting section

In cutting section following machines are use-

1. Cutting m/c

Completely manual: Hand operated scissor.

Manually operated powered knife:

Straight knife

Band knife

Computerized cutting machine:

Garber Cutting machine

2. Spreading machine

Brio 1000(no of machine 4)

Konsan (no of machine 1)

Equipment‟s in cutting section

Cutting table

Perforated paper

Marker

Auto sticking m/c

38

Gsm tester

Gsm cutter

Electric balance

Machine specification:

Knife specification:

Tools to be used : 2.4 * 8.5 blade (thickness* width)

Speed : 30 m/min

Acceleration : 3 m/s2

Vibration : 5000-5500 turns/min

Machine requirements:

m/c power supply-electric voltage-440v

knife pneumatic supply -6 bar

Straight knife:

No of machine :1

Company : BLUISTER

Knife length : 8‟‟ & 10‟‟

Knife width : 2cm

Knife thickness : 0.1cm

Cutting height : 4 (standard)

Fig-3.12: straight knife

In this machine is movable but fabric is fixed suitable for cutting large garments parts.

Band knife:

No of machine :2

Model : max-700A

Voltage :220V

Knife length : endless

Knife width : 0.5cm

Knife thickness : .02cm

G.W : 295 kg

N.W : 230 kg

Origin : China

In this machine is movable but fabric is

fixed.

Suitable for cutting small garment parts,

round shape etc.

Fig-3.13 : Band knife

39

No of motor : 2

1 for perforated bed for easy cutting

Another for m/c running

Sewing section:

Table 3.9: List of machineries

SL

No

SWEING MACHINE QUANTIT

Y

BRAND

1 1-NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH 551 JUKI,BROTHER,SUNSTA

R,PUFF

2 1-NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH 25 JOJE,FEIYUE

3 VERTICAL TRIMMER 50 JUKI,SUNSTAR

4 2-NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH 22 SUNSTAR

5 2-NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH 50 KANSAI, JOJE,FEIYUE

6 MULTI NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH 46 KANSAI

7 4-THREAD OVERLOCK (WITH

ELECTRICAL CHAIN CUTTER)

451 JUKI,PEGASUS,KANSAI

8 2-NEEDLE PIPING (BACKTAPE) 25 PEGASUS,KANSAI

9 2/3-NEEDLE COVERING

STITCH (FLATLOCK)

461 JUKI,PEGASUS,KANSAI

10 ZIG-ZAG MACHINE 10 JUKI,SUNSTAR

11 BARTACK MACHINE 110 JUKI,BROTHER,SUNSTA

R

12 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 63 JUKI,BROTHER

13 BUTTON SWING MACHINE 65 JUKI,BROTHER

14 SMOCKING MACHINE(12 & 33

NEEDLE)

15 KANSAI

15 PICO TING MACHINE 11 KANSAI

40

16 RIB CUTTING MACHINE 31 IDEA,IU-922

17 BLIND STITCH(OVERLOCK) 58 PEGUSUS

18 SNAP BUTTON 33 NYTO,UZU,MAX

19 FUSING MACHINE 15 HASHIMA

Grand

Total=2948

CHAIN STITCH MACHINE:

Description:

The machine comes with a thread spreading mechanism and an adjustable needle

guard to prevent stitch skipping. The thread clamp mechanism, tension release

mechanism and needle thread draw-out mechanism enable the machine to leave

thread of a uniform length after thread trimming, and prevent slip-off of the needle

thread. All of these mechanisms contribute to upgraded sewing.

Fig 3.14: Chain stitch Machine

Model Name : MH481

Maximum sewing speed : 5500st/min

Stitch length : 1-4mm

Pressure foot : By knee 4mm

Needle : TV×7

41

LOCK STITCH MACHINE:

Description:

The thread take-up mechanism, feed mechanism, thread paths and hook have been

further improved to enhanced responsiveness to material changes & ensure stitch

quality

Fig 3.15: Lock stitch Machine

BUTTON HOLLING MACHINE:

The LBH-1790A Series follows the world's highest sewing speed and dry-head

mechanism of its predecessor model. In addition, this machine comes with the latest

model operation panel which is installed with a USB port. Furthermore, all drive

mechanisms have been digitalized to manage each sewing pattern individually.

Model name : LBH-1790A

Max. sewing speed : 3,600sti/min

Number of stitches : 54～345 (by gear-change method)

Model name : DDL-8300N

Max. sewing speed : 5500sti/min

Max. stitch length : 5mm

Needle : DB×1

42

Buttonhole length : 6.4～38.1mm

Needle : DP×5 #11J, 134 Nm75

Fig3.16: Button holing machine

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE

LK-1903B Series

The machine achieves sewing speed of 2,700sti/min. The machine's starting, stopping,

thread-trimming and automatic presser lifting speeds have been increased to

significantly shorten total cycle time.

Fig 3.17: Button sewing machine

Model name : LK-1903B


Number of stitches : 8, 16, and 32 stitches

Feed length (crosswise feed) : 2.5～6.5mm

43

Applicable button : Shank button, Wrapped-around button, Snap, Label,

Metal button, Stay button

Button size : φ10～28mm

Needle : TQ×1 (#16) #14～20

BARTACKING MACHINE:

LK-1850 series

The machine is provided with a material-drawing mechanism which draws the right

and left parallel portions of an eyelet buttonhole near to one another. The machine

performs bartacking with the right and left parallel portions of the eyelet buttonhole

drawn near to one another after the buttonhole is clamped under the work clamp foot,

thereby finishing highly durable and well-tensed eyelet buttonholes

Fig 3.18: Bartaking Machine

Model name : LK-1850


Lift of the work clamp : Max. 17mm

Needle : DP×5

OVERLOCK MACHINE:

MO-6700 series

Since the machine comes with a needle-thread take-up mechanism as well as a looper

thread take-up mechanism, to offer upgraded responsiveness from light- to heavy-

weight materials with a lower applied tension.

44

Fig 3.19: Overlock Machine

Model Name : MO-6700

Types : 3, 4 & 5 threads

Stitch Per Minute (SPM) : 6500-8500

Stitch Class : 500

Group : Chain stitch

Seam class : Super imposed

TPI : 15-16 (3 thread),

17-18 (4 thread)

21-22 (5 thread)

Needle no : 1 needle, 2 loppers (3 Thread);

2 needles, 2 loppers (4 Thread)

2 needles, 3 loppers (5 Thread)

Uses of Machines:

Plain m/c : All types of Woven fabric stitching.

Over lock m/c : All types of sewing of light and heavy fabric garments for edge

neating and side joining.

Double needle m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light weight fabric garments.

45

Flat lock m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments

specially for hemming and decorative purpose.

Button hole m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments for

button holing.

Button attaching m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments for

button attaching.

Bartack m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments.

Specially in the seam joining area, belt loop trouser.

Chain stitch : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments.

Blind stitch m/c : All types of sewing of light and heavy fabric garments

hemming.

Machine brand:

Machine brand : Country

Sunstar : Korea

Kansai special : Japan

Juki : Japan

Pegasus : Japan

Brother : Japan

Puff : Japan

46

Finishing Section:

In finishing section following machines are use:

Table 3.10: Machine of finishing section

Serial no Finishing machine Quantity Brand

01 STEAM IRON 158 VEIT,SLIVER

STAR,NISHO

02 VACCUM TABLE 148 VEIT,SLIVER

STAR,NISHO

03 METAL DETECTOR 3 CINTEX

04 NEEDLE DETECTOR 12 CINTEX,HASHIMA

05 HAND METAL DETECTOR 5 KM,HASHIMA

06 STRAPPING MACHINE 2 TOYO

07 SPOT REMOVING MACHINE 12 UZU

08 TAG ATTACHER MACHINE 6 ARTEKA

TOTAL 346

Remarks:

Texeurop is a well-planned factory. Everything which is necessary is available here is

a well-furnished factory.

47

CHAPTER 4

RAW MATERIALS

4.1 Raw Material for Knitting:

4.1.1 Raw Material for Knitting Section:

As we know the raw materials for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide

range of count are used for this purpose. In yarn store section we had the chance to

know about different yarns of different count used in Texeurop (BD) Ltd. knitting.

We also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting

section i.e. sources of yarn. . There are different types of yarns are used as raw

materials in this factory. These are:

Table 4.1: The frequently count of yarn used in the factory

Generally used yarn Count

Cotton 10S

,18 S

,20 S

,24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S, 32

S, 34

S,

38s,40

S

Polyester 75D, 100D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26

S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S, 26

S, 28

S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

CVC 24S, 26

S, 28

S, 30

S

4.2 PRICE OF RAW MATERIALS:

Price of yarn varies mill to mill and as different count. Here, we collect a price sheet

of overall price for all the spinning mills of home and abroad of different count from

merchandizing section:

48

PRICE AND SOURCE OF RAW MATERIALS:

Table 4.2: Price and Source of Raw Materials

Yarn Types. Yarn Count Source of Yarn Price of Yarn

100% Cotton,

Combed.

40/s Shinha Tex $ 3.55/kg

100% Cotton,

Carded.

40/s Rahmat Tex $ 2.90/kg

100%Cotton,

Combed.

34/s Akij Tex $ 3.08/kg

100%Cotton,

Carded.

34/s Shamim Tex $ 2.70/kg

100% Cotton,

Carded.


100% Cotton,

Carded.


100%Cotton,

Combed.


100%Cotton,

Combed

30/s Keya Tex $ 3.00/kg

100%Cotton,

Combed.


100% Cotton,

Carded.

26/s Keya Tex $ 2.45/kg

100% Cotton,

Carded.


100%Cotton,

Combed.


100%Cotton, 20/s Keya Tex $ 2.90/kg

49

Combed

Grey mélange(85%

Cotton +15%

viscose)


Grey mélange (”) 26/s Shamim Tex $ 2.85/kg

Spandex ( Lycra) 20/d Korea,Chine&Taiw

an

$ 08-18/kg

Other source of raw materials is as follows:

Jamuna Spinning Mill Ltd,

Paradise Spinning Mill Ltd

Utha Spinning Mill Ltd

Amber Spinning Mill Ltd

J.K Spinning Mill Ltd

Cotton concern Spinning Mill Ltd

Square Spinning Mill Ltd

Talha Spinning Mill Ltd

Viyellatex LTD.

Annual Requirement of Yarn:

This factory required 1200 to 1300 tons yarn per year.

4.2.1Raw Material for Dyeing:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is a knit composite textile industry. In this industry the raw

materials used for production of colored or white finished fabrics which are ready for

the preparation of garments are:

1. Grey fabrics

2. Dyes

3. Chemicals.

50

Grey Fabric Source:

Dyeing department of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. receive grey fabric from knitting

department of this company. According to buyer order, store officer receive the grey

fabric and he maintains the delivery of finished fabric.

Annual Requirements of Grey Fabric:

Determination of annual requirements is very tough. It mainly depends on the buyer

order and subcontract order. When the buyer order is large then the consumption is

high and vice-versa. The annual requirements of grey fabric depend on the buyer

order and the requirements of dyes and chemicals depend on the colour depth.

1. Grey Fabric:

According to Fibers:

100 % Cotton fabric

CVC fabric

PC fabric

Lycra twill fabric

Grey mélange.

According to Fabric Structure:

Single jersey

Single jersey with lycra

Polo pique

Single & double lacoste

Fleece

Interlock & its derivatives

Interlock with lycra

Rib & its derivatives (1Χ1 Rib, 2Χ2 Rib)

Rib with lycra

Different types of collar & cuff

Piping, Twill tape & other decorative accessories.

51

2. Chemicals:

List of Chemicals Used In Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Acid

1. Acetic Acid

2. Hydrochloric Acid

Detergent

1. Felosan NOF

Washing Agent

1. Cibapon R

Levelling Agent

1. Cibacel DBC

Sequestering Agent

1. Invatex CS

Salt

1. Gluber Salt

2. Common Salt

Whitening Agent

1. Uvitex BAM

2. Uvitex BHV

3. Hostalux ETBN (For polyester

fabric)

4. Bluton BBV

Softener

1. Alkamine CWS

2. Sapamine FPG

3. Sapamine 544

4. Magasoft TET

5. Megasoft FMG (For White

Fabric)

Fixing Agent

1. Sandofix EC

Reducing Agent

1. Hydrose

Bleaching Agent

1. H2O2

Enzyme

1. Bioace

2. Tinozyme 44L

Stabilizer

1. Tinoclarite CBB

Anticreasing Agent

1. Cibafuid C

PH

Controller

1. Acid

2. Neutracid RBT (Non volatile)

3. Soda Ash

4. Caustic

Per-oxide Killer

52

1. Invatex PC

Table 4.3: Chemicals & Auxiliaries

SL

No

Trade Name Source Origin Type Price

Tk/Kg

1 Imerol PCLF Clariant Switzerland Wetting Agent 177.49

2 Sirrix 2UD LIQ Clariant Switzerland Sequestering Agent 120

3 Kappasoft SM Kappa Chem Germany Softening Agent 253.71

4 Kappasoft BD Kappa Chem Germany Softening Agent 250

5 Kappaquest FE Kappa Chem Germany Multifunctional 134.28

6 Prozyme Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Enzyme

7 Prostab S2 05 Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar

San Ve Dis TIC

L

Turkey Stabilizer 99.24

8 Ionactive PP 105 Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Levelling Agent 116.30

9 Cleanol RB 104 Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Washing Agent 98.29

10 Fixoline FZ-106 Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

Turkey Fixing Agent 189.09

53

TIC L

11 Provent POL

103

Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Anti-Creasing

Agent

98.98

12 Geistab RS Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Stabilizer 97

13 Geisoftcan Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Anti-Creasing

Agent

97

14 Geiclean WA Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San Ve Dis

TIC L

Turkey Washing Off Agent 97

15 Geisoft WCS Omar

EndustrailKimya

sallar San

Ve Dis TIC L

Turkey Whitener 250

16 Syno White 2BX Orient Chem Taiwan

17 Syno White

BYB

Orient Chem Taiwan

18 Sapamine CWS Huntsman Switzerland Softening Agent 277.50

19 Hydrogen

peroxide50%

H P Chemicals Bangladesh Bleaching Agent

20 Hydrose BASF Germany Reducing Agent 167.14

54

21 Acetic Acid Jubilent India Acid 102.20

22 Soda Ash Orient Link

(Hong Kong)

Limited

China Alkali 19.47

23 Caustic Soda Opsonin Bangladesh Alkali 55

24 Glaubar Salt Orient Link

(Hong Kong)

Limited

China Electrolyte 11.67

25 Jinfix SR Orient chem Taiwan Fixing agent 325.40

26 Antimussol HTS Oasis India Anti-foaming agent 275

27 GSS Kappa Chem Germany Exhausting Agent 1390

28 Green Acid Huntsman Switzerland Acid 90

29 Common Salt Opsonin Bangladesh Electrolyte 9.73

30 Invatex PC Huntsman Switzerland Peroxide Killer 139

Dyes:

Following are the dyes that are used for the coloration of the Scoured & Bleached

Fabric. The Dyes are listed below:

Table 4.5: List of dyes

SL

No

Trade Name Source Origin Dyestuff

Type

Price

Tk/Kg

1 Reactobond Blue

RR

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd.

India Reactive 718.87

2 Reactobond Red

RR

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd


3 Reactobond

Yellow RR

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd


55

4 Remazol Blue

RR

Dystar Singapore Reactive 829

5 Remazol Red

RR

Dystar Singapore Reactive 738.45

6 Remazol Yellow

RR

Dystar Singapore Reactive 1090

7 Imcozine Blue

E-NR

Impocolor Germany Reactive 2101

8 Imcozine Red E-

3BF


9 Imcozine Yellow

E-3R


10 Indofix/Reactive

N Blue ME-GL

Perfect Dye-Chem India Reactive 364

11 Indofix/Reactive

Yellow ME4GL

Perfect Dye-Chem India Reactive 485.85

12 Reactive Orange

ME-2RL


13 Reactive Black

HFGR


14 Reactive Red

ME4BL


15 Reactive

G.Yellow MERL


16 Reactive Black

B


17 Parfix Black

WNN


56

18 Drimarine

Yellow CL2R

Clariant Switzerland Reactive 2500

19 Drimarine Red

CL5B


20 Drimarine

Yellow CL2R


21 Drimarine

Yellow HFR


22 Drimarine Navy

CLB


23 Drimarine Blue

Turquis CLB


24 Reactive Turo.

Blue H2GP

KIRI TEX India Reactive 560

25 Solazol Blue

RSPL

Solar Fine Chemical

CO. Ltd.

Taiwan Reactive 390

26 Syno White 4BK Orient Chem Taiwan Brightener 300.03

27 Reactobond

Orange 3R

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd.

India Discharge 488.82

28 Solazol Navy

WB

Solar Fine Chemical

CO. Ltd.

Taiwan Discharge 450

29 Remazol Dark

Blue SLT

Dystar Gemany Reactive 560

30 Reactobond Red

3GX

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Reactive 1250

31 Reactobond Red

BB

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Discharge 1218

32 Reactobond Meghmani Dyes And India Discharge 560

57

Navy DB Intermediates Ltd

33 Reactobond

Black DX

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Discharge 470

34 Reactobond

Yellow RGB

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Discharge 600

35 Reactobond Blue

H2R

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd


36 Reactobond N.

Blue GG

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Discharge 650

37 Reactobond Blue

BB

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd


38 Levafix Blue CA Dystar Germany Reactive 1841

39 Levafix Fast Red

CA

Dystar Germany Reactive 2071

40 Levafix Amber

CA


41 LevafixRubine

CA


42 Novacron Brill

Red Fn-3GL

Huntsman Switzerland Reactive 2400

43 Novacron Blue-

FNR


44 Novacron Red

FNR-01


45 Novacron

Yellow FN-2R


46 Disperse Red

CBNSF

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 2600

58

47 Disperse Black

EXNSF

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 374.13

48 Disperse Blue

SGL

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 648.41

49 Disperse Orange

RSF

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 400

50 Disperse Yellow

F-5GL

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 550

51 Dispertex Black

RK7

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 170

52 Dispertex Blue

MN 12

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 460

53 Dispertex

Marine RS

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 530

54 Dispertex Red

FRC 46

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates

India Disperse 490

55 DispertexCarmin

Ln

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 510

56 Dispertex

Orange FR

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 475

57 Dispertex

Yellow GR

Meghmani Dyes And

Intermediates Ltd

India Disperse 510

59

4.3 Annual Requirements of Dyes:

The annual requirement of Dyestuffs, Chemicals & Auxiliaries was not determined as

necessity of these are assessed by volume of production. Annual requirement of dyes

& chemical depend on the order of production. But for various reasons such as

improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes, uneven process

control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities& for

different unwanted expenditure, extra dye consumption increased dye & chemical

requirement.

Remarks:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Fabrics Ltd is very careful & conscious about its raw materials.

The raw materials are always collected from those suppliers who supply the dyes &

chemicals of higher quality. The best Quality Raw Materials are selected to ensure

and satisfy the Buyers requirements.

60

CHAPTER 5

LABORATORY

5.1 Laboratory:

In an organization, especially in a textile industry Lab is the main key point, with a

higher precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before the

bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is prepared and sent to the

buyer, as per the requirements that the buyer mentioned. The lab dip is prepared in a

lab considering the economical aspects.

5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments:

● Lab dip machine ● Electric balance

● Crock meter ● Spectrophotometer

● Light box ● Stirrer

● Dryer ● pH meter

● Electronic pipette

5.3 Laboratory Equipment’s:

● Dryer ● Iron ● Computer

● Balance ● Scissors ● Light box

● Calculator ● Stirrer ● conical flax

● Beaker ● Manual pipette ● cylindrical flax

5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries are used in Laboratory:

● Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) ● Acetic acid (CH3COOH)

● Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4) ● Caustic soda (NaOH)

● Detergent (Sand clean/Imerol PCLF) ● Soda Ash (Na2CO3)

● Hydrous (Na2S2O4) ● Gluber salt (Na2SO4.10H2O)

● Dispersing agent (Jinlev –RLF) ● Leveling Agent (Ionactive PP 105)

61

5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries:

Table5.1: Specification of lab dip machine

Sl.

No.

Name of

Machine

Brand Manufacturer Supplier Origin

1 LAB DIP-

1,3,4,5

Capacity-24

pots (250ml)

F&P Heshan Project

Dyeing Equipment

Ltd.

Manufacturer China

2 LAB DIP-2

Capacity-24

pots(250ml)

Labortex Centrary Faith

Industrial Ltd.

Manufacturer Taiwa

n

3 ELECTRIC

BALANCE

Adventurer

Balance

Ahaus corporation SMH Engg.

&Trading Co.

USA

4 CROCK

METER

Crock

Meter-67

James H heal &

Co.

TH

Corporation

UK

5 SPECTROPHO

TOMER

Specta flash

sf-600x

Data Color Data color USA

6 LIGHT BOX VERIVIDE Roaches

International Ltd.

PENDORA UK

7 DRYER Labtech Daiham Labtech

Co.

TH

Corporation

Korea

8 pH METER Microproces

sor Bench

pH meter

HANNA

Instruments

TH

Corporation

Italy

5.6 Selection of Stock Solution for Lab Recipe:

Table 5.2: Selection of stock solution for lab recipe

Shade % Stock solution %

Above 5 % 2%

0.10%--5% 1%

Below 0.10% 0.10%

Glauber salt% 25%

Soda ash% 10%

62

5.7 Ratio between Salt and Soda According to Shade Percentage:

M: L = 1:10; Salt solution = 25%; Soda ash = 10%

Table 5.3: Ratio between salt and soda according to shade percentage

Shade% Salt (g/l) Soda (g/l)

0.00-0.09 10 2

0.10-0.20 15 3

0.20-0.40 20 4

0.40-0.80 25 5

0.80-1.20 30 6

1.20-1.60 40 10

1.60-2.50 50 12

2.50-3.50 60 15

3.50-4.50 70 17

4.50-5.50 78 18

5.50-10 80 20

10-16 100 25

5.8 Order Flow Chart of Lab Dip:

Buyer

↓

Merchandiser (Buying house)

↓

Merchandiser (Factory)

↓

Lab dip receiving (Lab)

↓

Input samples code no.

↓

Entry in lab register

Figure 5.1: Order flow chart of dyeing lab

63

5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure:

Collect standard swatch/pantone number from buyer.

↓

Select appropriate combination of dyes and making recipe with required fabric from

available reference or data color

↓

Making stock solution as per respective dyes & chemicals

↓

Pipetting by manually or digitally from stock soln. according to dye percentage

& liquor ratio (M: L)

↓

Taking a fabric of 5gm weight

↓

Dyeing in m/c by keeping exact parameter as per percentage & dyestuff (migration

& fixation)

Cooling, washing, & drying

↓

Sample matching with swatch

5.10 Flow Chart of Lab Dip Submission:

Lab preparation

↓

Checking light box or Spectrophotometer

↓

Lab dip submission

↓

Keep submission in register

↓

Re-submit if not pass

↓

Shade receive from buyer

↓

Transfer to dyeing floor with recipe

Figure 5.2: Lab Dip Making Procedure

Figure 5.3: Flow chart of lab dip submission

64

5.11 Machine Program for Dyeing Procedure of Different Dyes in

Lab:

Table 5.4: Machine programs for different dyeing procedure

Dyes M/C Program Process Temp (°C) Time(min.)

Reactive F1 L0 Migration 50 40

F1 L1 Dyeing 65 60

F1 L2 Cooling 50 10

Drimarine F2 L0 Migration 60 40

F2 L1 Dyeing 60 60

F2 L2 Cooling 50 10

Turquoise F3 L0 Migration 50 40

F3 L1 Dyeing 70 60

F3 L2 Cooling 50 10

Disperse F4 L0 Dyeing 130 40

F4 L1 Cooling 50 10

Disperse

( with

carrier)

F5 L0 Dyeing 100 40

F5 L1 Cooling 50 10

Black F6 L0 Migration 50 60

F6 L1 Dyeing 65 60

F6 L2 Cooling 50 10

Fastness F7 L0 Wash 60 40

5.12 Calculation for Lab Dip Preparation:

Weight of sample = 5 gm

Liquor ratio = 1:10 (Material : Liquor) For cotton fabric

Liquor ratio = 1: 10 (For polyester and cotton blended fabric)

Required Stock solution for dyes =

Required Stock solution for Chemical =

65

5.13 Color and Chemical Calculation:

Necessary Data, for 1 gm of fabric,

Color recipe Chemicals

R/B Blue RR → 1.6% Salt → 60 g/l

R/B Red RR → 0.52% Soda → 15 g/l

R/B Blue RR → 0.746% Sample weight → 5 gm

Solution

We know,

Required dye solution in cc =

For R/B Blue RR =

= 8 cc [stock solution 1%]

For R/B Red RR =

= 2.6 cc [stock solution 1%]

For R/B Yellow RR =


Total amount of salt =

= 12 cc [stock solution 25%

Total amount of salt =


Required amount of water = Total liquor – Total dyes & chemicals

= {50-(12+7.5+8+2.6+3.73)} cc

= 16.2 cc

66

CHAPTER 6

Production planning & sequence of Operations

6.1 Names of the buyers: Table 6.1: Name of the buyers

Customer Buyer

1. Texeurop

S. Oliver

Gerry Weber, Piere Carding

Mustang

C&A, H&M

Lerros

Street One

Poly Concept

American Eagle

Tom Tailor

US Polo, Dr Leonards, Foue

H, Dustin EL-CORTE,

CHEROKEE

2. Pantex

HAV

Zero

TAO

Brice

Camiu

Cecil

MED

Price

67

3. Scarlet

Part two, Texman,

Dristicentr

Cache cache, Takko

Primark, AWG, Primark

DPAM, bonobo, Innovation

Club

Jeans Fritz, Cotton field

Afibel, Marks, Parksene

Saint Tropez, Matinique

4. Dip Knitwear

Multiline

Fareast

Li & Fung

Fiat Fashion

Indeshore

Well Lord

5. Z-3 composite Mim

Wal-Mart

6. Aswad Composite Prim ark

Mim

7. M.M Composite

Hawks Head

BHS

France Telecom

Orange Telecom

8. Mymun/DBL H&M

Wal-Mart

9. Needle Touch Unitex

68

10. Brine Knit

CDF

Kids Concepts

Midline Fashion

11. Square H&M

12. Mondol

Arina

Carine

PH-40/09

13. Matrix Centrotex, LPP

Losan

6.2 Buyer’s Requirements:

Different buyers have different requirements. Someone wants wash fastness, someone

wants light fastness, someone wants rubbing & wash fastness, someone wants

softness & pilling free (abrasion resistance), someone wants hazard substance free

(azo free, chlorine free) & acceptable formaldehyde range for human body.

Requirements of buyers for 100% export quality products

Light fastness (As buyer requirement)

Shade, dia & G.S.M. (as buyer requirement).

Softness (Medium soft, normal soft, super soft).

Rubbing fastness (3, 4 or as buyer requirement) in wet & dry state.

Wash fastness (3, 4 or as buyer requirement).

Azo & chlorine free.

Shrinkage (±5% along length & widthwise, actually widthwise shrinkage 0%

or positive).

Spirality (±5% or as buyer requirement).

Pilling resistance (as buyer requirement).

Abrasion resistance (as buyer requirement).

Meta-meric free.

pH of the substance (Neutral state)

CPI, WPI & yarn count in case of knitting (as buyer requirement).

69

6.3 Production Parameters :

Table 6.2 Production parameters

Process Temp(▫C) pH Time min M : L ratio

Scouring -Bleaching 80 11.5-12 60' 1:8

Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 60' 1:8

Enzyme Deactivation 70 10'

Reactive Dyeing (Light Shade) 60 10.2-10.8 60' 1:6

Reactive Dyeing(Dark Shade) 60 10.9-12 60' 1:6

White Shade 95 10.5-11.5 20' 1:6

Turquish color dyeing 80 10.9-12 90' 1:6

Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45' 1:6

Softening Water 40 4-5 45 1:6

Salt dosing: Linear dosing (dosing rate 0%)

● For light color : 30 minutes

● For dip color : 20 minutes

● For turquoise or critical color : 40 minutes

Soda dosing: Progressive dosing (dosing rate 70%)

● Dosing time : 30-40 minutes

Migration

● For light color : 30 minutes

● For dip color : 40 minutes

Water level: High level of water hydrolyzes more dyes and causes light shade.

So water level must be maintained accurately.

Wash: After dyeing incorrect wash caused light or dip shade. So proper wash must

be done.

70

6.4 Production Flow Charts:

Lab dip approved

↓

Grey fabric inspection

↓

Batching

↓

Scouring & Bleaching

↓

Enzyming ( If required Or buyer requirements )

↓

Dyeing

↓

Bath Drain

↓

Cold Wash

↓

Neutral With Acetic Acid

↓

Soaping

↓

Fixing (If required )

↓

Softening

6.4. 1 Batching :

Batching preparation is the process where inspected grey fabrics are divided into

different batches with reasonable quantity according to machine capacity, nozzle

number in order to make them suitable for the further operation In batching. It must

be carefully observed that each Nozzle of a machine contains equal length of fabric.

After batching some fabrics are tuned to backside to minimize the risk of faulty

dyeing.

71

Following are the fabrics those are tuned back by turning machine:

Single Jersey

Lacoste (Single & Double jersey)

Fleece(if asked)

Sequence of Batching:

Grey fabric divided into batches

↓

Batches divided nozzle wise according to length & Dia

Instrument used:

Turning m/c

Plaiting m/c

Weighting m/c

Back sewing m/c

Overlock m/c

Information checked:

Order No

Color

Yarn Count

Yarn lot

Yarn brand

Knitting factory

Machine No

Roll No

72

6.4.2 Dyeing Section:

Program for Different Color and Shade

Procedure of Dark Shade: (When Dye Bath Enzyme):

Machine Fill & Raise at 600c

↓

Required amount of wetting agent & Anti Crease (if required) is added.

↓

Fabric loading

↓

Sequestering agent & stabilizer is added also.

↓

Caustic Dosing for 5‟

↓

H202 dosing for 5‟

↓

Temperature raise at 800c & Runtime 60‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

1st Hot wash 90

0c 10‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

2nd

Hot wash

↓

Drain & Fill

Acid 600C×15‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

PH Check

↓

Enzyme Inject at 550c Temperature

↓

Color dosing for 30‟ at 550c

↓

Salt inject

↓

PH Check

↓

Runtime 60‟ from enzyme inject

↓

Soda Dosing for 30‟at 550c

↓

Dyeing sample cut at 650c

↓

Bath drop and drop sample cut then fill

73

↓

Rinse for 10‟

↓

Drain & fill

↓

Acid Room temperature for 20 „

↓

Drain & fill

↓

Hot wash 900c for 10‟ Running sample cut

↓

If OK then drain fastness check & fill

↓

Rinse for 10‟

↓

Drain & fill

↓

Softener

Fig 6.1: Processing curve for dark Color

Dyeing Process White Colour:


↓


↓

Fabric loading

Hot

was

h

90 °

C×

10‟

Hot

was

h

90 °

C×

10‟

Fab

ric

load

ing

&

NaO

H ,

H2

O2

do

sin

g

40°C

5

-10

60

°C×

5‟

80

°C×

60

‟

60

; S

cou

ring

& B

leac

hin

g

Finwet OSR

Arboquest 340

Prostab S-205

55

0C

×60‟

PH

Ch

eck

En

zym

e in

ject

Co

lor

do

zing

fo

r 3

0‟

& s

alt

inje

ct

Rin

se 1

0‟

Aci

d

60 °

C×

15‟

65

0C

×30‟

Aci

d 2

0‟

Hot

was

h

90 °

C×

10‟

Rin

se 1

0‟

Soft

ener

74

↓


↓


↓


↓

OBA Dosing 10‟

↓


↓

Drain & Fill

↓

Hot wash 900c 10‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

Acid 600C×15‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

PH Check

↓

Enzyme Inject at 550c Temperature

↓

Runtime 550C×60‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

Rinse

↓

Softener

75

Fig 6.2: Processing curve for white Color

Procedure of Separate Enzyme for Turquoise/ Royal Navy Blue Shade:


↓


↓

Fabric loading

↓


↓


↓


↓


↓

Drain & Fill

↓

Hot wash 900c 10‟

↓

Hot

was

h

90 °

C×

10‟

Fab

ric

load

ing

&

NaO

H ,

H2

O2

do

sin

g

40°C

5

-10

60

°C×

5‟

80

°C×

60

‟

60

; S

cou

ring

& B

leac

hin

g

Finwet OSR

Arboquest 340

Prostab S-205

55

0C

×60‟

PH

Ch

eck

En

zym

e in

ject

Co

lor

do

zing

fo

r 3

0‟

& s

alt

inje

ct

Rin

se 1

0‟

Aci

d

60

°C

×15‟

Soft

ener

76

Drain & Fill

↓

Acid 600C×15‟

↓

Drain & Fill

↓

PH Check

↓

Enzyme Inject at 550c Temperature × 60‟

↓

Temp Raise at 700C × 10‟

Drain & Fill

Temp Raise at 800C

↓

PH Check

Color dosing for 300c at 800c

↓

Salt inject 15‟

↓

Runtime 15‟

↓

Soda Dosing for 30‟at 500c

↓

Dyeing sample cut at 800c

↓

Bath drop and drop sample cut then fill

↓

Rinse for 10‟

↓

Drain & fill

↓

Acid Room temperature for 20 „

↓

Drain & fill

77

↓

Hot wash 900c for 10‟ Running sample cut

↓

If OK then drain fastness check & fill

↓

Rinse for 10‟

↓

Drain & fill

↓

Softener

Fig 6.3: Processing curve for Turquois Color

Dwell Time or Cycle Time:

The Dwell/Cycle Time is the time that is required for a roll of fabric (knitted fabric in

rope form) to complete a complete revolution inside the dyeing chamber (in winch

dyeing machine). This time has great significance in wet processing of knitted fabrics.

Upon this the action of dyes and chemicals is largely depended. Normally the lighter

fabric GSM the more the dwell time.

Dwell time calculation

Weight of fabric = 960 kg, Dia (tube) = 36, inch GSM = 140, No. of Nozzles = 4

Colo

r 30‟

& s

alt

15‟

Soda

30‟

Hot

was

h

90

°C

×10‟

Hot

was

h

90

°C

×10‟

Fab

ric

load

ing

&

NaO

H ,

H2

O2

do

sin

g

40

°C

5-1

0

60

°C×

5‟

80

°C×

60

‟

60

; S

cou

ring

& B

leac

hin

g

Finwet OSR

Arboquest 340

Prostab S-205

Rin

se 1

0‟

Aci

d

60 °

C×

15

‟

Aci

d 2

0‟

Hot

was

h

90

°C

×10‟

Rin

se 1

0‟

Soft

ener

55

0C

×60‟

PH

Ch

eck

En

zym

e in

ject

70

0C

×10‟

80

0C

50

0C

80

0C

×30‟

78

Dwell time =

=

= 3.10 min

Significance of Dwell Time

Dwell time = 3 min [better performance]

Dwell time > 3 min [causing uneven shade]

Dwell time < 3 min [best for the process]

6.4.3 Finishing Section:

Introduction:

Finishing is the last manufacturing step in the production of textile fabrics. As an

integral part of wet processing, finishing is the operation where the final fabric

properties are developed. Finishing is not restricted to wet processing alone since any

operation for improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric after it leaves the

loom or knitting machine can be considered a finishing step. Finish can be either

chemicals that change the fabric's aesthetic and/or physical properties or changes in

texture or surface characteristics brought about by physically manipulating the fabric

with mechanical devices. It can also be a combination of the two.

Finishing is commonly divided into two categories

Chemical and

Mechanical.

In chemical finishing, water is used as the medium for applying the chemicals. Heat is

used to drive off the water and to activate the chemicals. Mechanical finishing is

considered a dry operation even though moisture and chemicals are often needed to

successfully process the fabric.

79

Flow Chart of the Finishing Process:

Dyed Fabric

Open line Tube line

Slitting Squeezering

Stentering Drying

Compacting Compacting

Inspection (visually) Inspection (visually)

Packing Packing

Fig 6.4: Flow chart of the finishing process

6.5 Occurring Faults and Instant Remedy:

6.5.1 Faults & Remedies Of Knitting Section:

Table 6.3: Defect of knitted fabric, their causes and remedies

Faults Causes Remedies

Loop Thick, thin and dust in yarn.It is

seen along wales line.

By using regular and clean

yarn.

Dirt Improper cleaning of dirt ,as a

result dirt remain in yarn and

cause defective knitting.

By using dirt free yarn.

Pin hole Incorrect setting of machine and By providing proper setting

80

problem of Needle. & using defect free needle.

Lycra out Incorrect tention of lycra &

broken of lycra. By providing correct tention

& identifying broken lycra.

Slub Yarn thickness greater than

average thickness.

By using average thickness

yarn.

Set up/

Large hole

Absent of yarn feeding due to

dust.

To ensure yarn feeding by

cleaning dust.

Needle mark Due to damage of needle hook or

latch.

By providing proper hook or

latch needle

Contamination Due to knit of dust & other

materials such as yarn, lint etc.

By arranging sufficient

blower.

Hair Attachment of hair in yarn during

spinning & knitting.

To ensure absence of hair.

Hole Needle doesn‟t work because of

very thick yarn &flowing dust

clog the hook.

By using regular yarn &

providing sufficient blower.

Lycra drop Incorrect tention of lycra . providing correct tention of

lycra

Sinker mark Blent or damage sinker. By using defect free sinker.

Patta Due to thick-thin, count& lot

variation of yarn.

By using defect free & same

count yarn.

Oil spot/Oil

mark

Due to over lubricating,

inadequate air pressue & m/c

fault (lickage ).

By providing correct

lubricating, air pressure &

lickage free m/c.

6.5.2 Faults of Dyeing, Their Causes and Remedies:

a) Uneven shade

Causes:

81

Uneven scouring.

Improper dosing of salt, soda & dyes.

Variation of dwell time for different nozzle.

Remedies:

Properly scouring.

By washing (hot wash, soda wash).

By stripping with hydrose.

b) Running shade

Causes:

Incorrect combination of dyes.

Bad brand color.

Variation of dwell time for different nozzle.

Faulty dyeing process.

Remedies:

By leveler wash → soda wash → scouring → stripping.

c) Shrinkage

Causes:

Loop deformation.

Elasticity of fiber.

Tension during dyeing.

High dwell time.

Remedies:

By compacting.

d) Spirality or Twisting

Causes:

High twist in the yarn.

Improper tension during dyeing.

Remedies:

Yarn should be checked before knitting.

82

Proper tension during dyeing.

e) Hairiness

Causes:

Insufficient enzyme processing or using of bad enzyme whose activity is

lower.

Abrasion of fabric with dyeing machine during dyeing process.

Remedies:

By using high quality enzyme & proper killing of enzyme processing time.

By using anticreasing agent which act as a lubricating agent, so that abrasion

between fabric & dyeing machine occur less.

f) Crease mark

Causes:

Fabric becomes rope form which is the main reason of crease mark during

dyeing.

Friction of fabric with dyeing machine & fiber to fiber friction.

Sometime crease mark is occurred due to improper fabrics feeding.

Remedies:

By using anti-creasing agent which reduce fabric to machine & fibre to fibre

friction.

Squeezing should maintain properly.

g) Softener spot

Causes:

Using of bad softener.

Water hardness is one of the reasons of softener spot

Remedies:

By using soft water & high quality softener.

83

6.5.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments Section:

Skip stitch. Sewing rejection. Dirty spot

Broken stitch. Printing problem. Oil stain

Open stitch. Embroidery defect. High low

Needle mark Shading problem. Creased mark

Puckering. Yarn contamination.

6.6 Quality Control Unit:

Introduction:

The quality control department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of

the material in process & various stages of its manufacturing. Quality is an attribute,

property or special features.The nature, kind or character of any material is known

quality. Control is to check or verify and hence to regulate.

6.6.1 Objectives Of Quality Control:

Research Selection of raw material

Process control Process development

Product control Product development

Specification test

6.6.2 Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection:

Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric-

Buying good quality yarn.

Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.

G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.

Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after 15 days.

Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.

6.6.3 List of Equipment’s:

Inspection Table Scissors

Electronic balance GSM cutter

Indication sticker Measuring tape

Washing machine Dryer

84

6.6.4 Name of the Test for Quality Assurance of Grey Fabrics:

G.S.M Stitch length

Faults Dia

6.6.5 Procedure Of GSM Measurement By GSM Cutter :

At first cut the fabric using G.S.M cutter.

Weight the fabric using electric balance.

The cut sample is 100 sq.cm .The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.

The result is the G.S.M of that particular fabric.

Suppose ,

The weight of the fabric is 2.10 gm. That means the G.S.M of the fabric is 210 gm.

6.6.6 Dyeing Quality Control:

Shade check : The shade is checked several times during process as well as after

finishing the process to ensure buyers demand under recommended light source.

Generally the shade is checked at the following stage:

During dyeing ● After dyeing ● After drying

After trial for finishing ● After finishing

6.6.7 Quality Control of Finishing Section:

Flow chart of the quality control department unload fabrics from dyeing m/c.

Check color fastness and hand feel, fabrics surface (quality of dying) and reporting

to QC Manager/AGM/GM & keep record.

After dyeing and stenter check hand feel, shrinkage & online fabrics inspection

and also on table 30% fabric inspection & keep record. (Inspection point are

mentioned on QC table).

After compacting fabric check by 4 point system at least 40% of the total batch &

keep record. Check GSM Rib body match, shrinkage & keep record.

85

6.6.8 Inspection Checking Points of Finishing:

Uneven on fabric surface Color spot on fabric surface

Running shade on fold to fold Bowing line

Oil spot on fabric surface Bias on guide line

Line mark on fabric surface Softer spot on fabric surface

Dia variation into one roll Needle mark/ Slit mark

fabric surface Crease

GSM of the fabric against Dia

required GSM Shrinkage and Spirality

Neps, contamination, Brush quality

thick & thin place Patta problem

Suided finish quality Stripe bowing

Fabric elasticity Pin mark of the fabric surface

Color fastness to wash by water Fabric strength

Shade match with approved lab

Rubbing test on dry and wet

6.6.9 Line of Quality Control:

Online Quality Control: The qualities which are checked during running the process

and take instant action to control required quality is called online quality control.

Online quality control includes,

Dia or width GSM

Color spot Hand feel

Shade (standard swatch match, Shrinkage and Spirality measurement

roll to roll variation)

Offline Quality Control: The qualities which are checked outside of the process and

then again start the process with controlling the checking parameter is called offline

quality control. Offline quality control includes

Shrinkage and Spirality measurement

Color fastness to wash, rubbing (dry and wet) and perspiration acid and alkali.

Color fastness to light

Pilling test

86

6.6.10 Measurement of Fabric Width or Dia:

After finishing the fabric diameter or width is measured by a measuring tape. If the

width is more or less compactor is used to set the required width. If width is more

then lengthwise tension is increased and if width is less it is increased by shape. This

is the online width measurement. Offline measurement of fabric width should be

made in a standard testing atmosphere whenever possible.

Width variation allow in British Standard Hand book as below:

0.1˝ for 18˝ fabrics

0.05˝ for 4 to 18˝ fabrics

0.02˝ for upto 4˝

6.6.11 Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage and Spirality):

This two properties are minimize as soon as possible. Shrinkage 5% is allow.

Shrinkage test procedure:

At first fabric is relaxed from dryer or stenter (Lycra/PK fabrics 2 hour & normal

fabrics 40 minutes).

Measure the sample size (50 cm × 50 cm, 35 cm × 35 cm, 10 cm × 10 cm).

Sewing the sample three sides by over lock sewing machine and one side open.

Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer‟s choice.

(Standard recipe: detergent 2 g/l for 45 min at 450C).

Then drying the sample by tumble dryer.

Relax the fabric for 30 min.

Measure the sample after wash.

Shrinkage Test Calculation

Shrinkage % = ×100

Spirality test calculation

Average Spirality S = and Spirality =

Where, S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.

S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.

L = Length before wash.

87

6.6.12 Rubbing Fastness Test (Dry) Procedure:

Sample collect (before squeezing)

Sample dry by dryer or iron

For wash For rubbing Std swatch

Croking cloth set the croking finger.

Testing cloth set with basement plate and hold by holder.

(Fabric size at least 20 cm 10cm)

Croking finger move on the testing sample 10second or 10 cycle and wt. use 9N.

Then match with grey scale which scaling grading (1-5).

6.6.13 Color Fastness to Washing (ISO105:C06):

Procedure

Size of specimen : Cut sample at 10 cm 4 cm & Multi-fiber component at

10 cm × 2 cm and then the both are stitched together.

Detergent : Detergent 4 g/l

Fig 6.5: Rubbing fastness test (dry) procedure

88

Table 6.4: Run the program in the following way

Prog.

No.

Test

No.

Temp.

(0C)

Liquor

(ml)

Time

(min)

Number of

Steel ball

Adjust

pH

1 A 400C 150 ml 30 10 N/A

2 B 500C 150 ml 30 25 N/A

3 C 600C 50 ml 30 25 10.5±01

Rinse the sample twice with cold water.

Dry at 600C by hanging or by flat iron pressing but temperature should not be

more than 1200C.

Then match with grey scale which scaling grading (1-5) grey scale value high

color fastness quality high that means color bleeding low & vice versa.

6.6.14 Quality Assurance Procedure:

Body & Rib Inspection:

All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the

inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults

like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line,

slubs etc. are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four

point system.

1) Collar & Cuff Inspection:

Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor faulty

collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round

problem etc. properly counted and recorded.

6.6.15 Quality Standard:

Texeurop(BD)Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9002 standard in case of quality. They also

posses SGS & Oeko tex certificate Therefore, the four point system is followed to

inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded

in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed

by inspection at Texeurop(BD)Ltd.

89

Table 6.5: Four point grading system

Size of defects Penalty

3 inches or less 1 point

Over 3 inch but not

over 6 inch

2 point

Over 6 inch but not

over 9 inch

3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

Hole <1 inch 2 points

Hole >1 inch 4 points

The following formula is used for determining points/100 sq. yds. in a roll of a

fabric:-

Points/100 sq. yds. = (0.08*Roll points*A.GSM) / Roll wt. in Kg

Table 6.6: Grading calculation based on Points:

Points Grade

Up to 10 points A

10-20 B

20-30 C

30- 40 D

Above 40 Reject

Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection

section at Texeurop (BD) Ltd.:

6.6.16 Rejection Criteria for Body & Ribs:

Table 6.7: Rejection criteria for body & ribs

No. Faults Response

1. Needle mark Major needle line is rejected

2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected

3. Barre mark Rejected

4. Contamination & fly Approved for color but for white

shed 1 point is assigned

90

5. Slubs 1 point

6. Thick thin place Reject

7. Pin holes 1 point

8. Wrong design Reject

9. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager

10. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected.

11. Missing yarn Use 4 point

12. Holes Do

13. Oil line/stain Do

14. Chemical Do

15 Dirt stain Do

16. Crease line Do

17. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspection

section at Texeurop (BD) Ltd.:-

6.6.17 Rejection Criteria for Collar & Cuff:

Table 6.7: Rejection criteria for collar & cuff

No. Faults Response

1. Wrong ply Reject

2. Hole Reject

3. Needle line Reject

4. Slubs Reject

5. Wrong design Reject

6 Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white

7. First round problem Reject

8. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

9. Missing yarn Reject

10. Crease line Reject

11. Rust line Reject

12. Oil stripe Reject

13. Thick-thin Reject

14. Wrong tube Reject

91

6.6.18 Finished Fabric Inspection:

4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection. Defects found in

the final inspection:

1. Uneven shade

2. Oil spot

3. Neps

4. Crease mark

5. Machine Stoppage mark

6. Listing

7. Line mark

8. Pick missing

9. Double yarn

10. Dead cotton

11. Bowing

12. Fly yarn contamination

6.6.19 Inspection Checking Points:

1. Enzyme quality.

2. Hand feel on fabric surface

3. Uneven on fabric surface

4. Running shade on fold to fold.

5. Color spot on fabric surface

6. Softener spot on fabric surface

7. Oil spot on fabric surface.

8. Bowing line

9. Bias on Grid line

10. Line mark on fabric surface

11. Dia variation in one roll fabric surface

12. GSM of fabric against required GSM

13. Needle mark or slit mark

14. Pin mark on fabric surface

15. Sinker mark

16. Crease mark

17. Dia mark

18. Neps, contamination, thick & thin place.

92

19. Pattern problem

20. Stripe bowing

21. Fabric elasticity

22. Fabric strength

23. 2Brush quality

24. Suided/piece finish quality

25. Color fastness to wash and water

26. Rubbing fastness to dry and wet

27. Shrinkage and Spirality.

Remarks:

In this modern world the buyer requirement is increasing day by day. And they are

conscious about quality of product. In order to fulfil this requirements QC department

need to do a number of task. QC also check the following fault- hole, fly yarn, dye

stain, chemical stain, uneven shade , meter to meter variation, compactor crease,

patchy dyeing, yarn contamination, sinker mark, dyeing crease etc.

93

CHAPTER 7

GARMENTS MERCHANDISING

7.1 Introduction:

Garment merchandising attempts to the structural changes in the textile industry,

focusing on the export of textile and garments. Garment merchandising is a

complicated and detail oriented job. If this task can be performed successfully &

properly then it will bring both money and reputation for the industry. But when

a merchandising department of an industry fails it will be a great threat for the

existence of industry. For this reason the merchandiser of textile industry must be

highly qualified, well trained and experienced. The textile industry employs several

mode of production. Apparel merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell

products to consumers.

7.2 Definition:

Generally, Merchandising is planning, developing and presenting product lines for

identified target markets, with regard to pricing, assortment, styling and timing.

Merchandising is the central co-ordinating point for the product line.

The responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to them are:

a) Sampling,

b) Lab dips,

c) Accessories & trims,

d) Preparing internal order sheets,

e) Preparing purchase orders,

f) Advising and assisting production,

g) Advising quality department about quality level,

h) Mediating production and quality departments,

i) Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,

j) Helping documentation department,

k) Taking responsibility for inspections and

l) Following shipment

m) Internal & external communication,

94

7.3 Activities of Merchandising:

Merchandising Activities on Product Development:

Sequence of Sampling

↓

Counter sample/Style sample/Salesmen sample

↓

Fitting sample/ Size set sample

↓

Pre-Production

↓

Pre-Shipment Sample

↓

Shipping Sample

↓

Photo/ Advertisement/ Catalog Sample

7.4 Merchandising Activities on Quality Control:

The main objective of quality control is to ensure that goods are produced to the first

customer (Direct Order) and hopefully to the second customer (Recorder/Alter order/

new order) as well. If both customers can be satisfied then the manufacturer products

are more likely to continue to be in demand. Satisfactory quality can only be ensured

through (from the manufacturer pint of view)

a) Knowing the customers‟ needs.

b) Designing to meet them Faultless construction- manufacture.

c) Certified performance and safety.

d) Clear instruction manuals.

e) Suitable packing.

f) Prompt delivery.

g) Feedback of field experience.

Qualities and Skillness of a Good Merchandiser

Communication Skill: The communication is very much important to promote

the business activity. The merchandiser should remember that communication

must be lurid and should having face to face conversation with the buyer.

Planning Capability: Merchandiser should be capable of planning, based on the

planning the order is to be followed. If the planning is not done properly it will

directly affect the delivery time of the order.

95

Decision making: For a Merchandiser, decision making power is most

important. He should think about the decision to be taken and to act in a right

way.

Loyalty: Loyalty is an essential character of human beings. Especially for the

business people like merchandiser it is a must.

Knowledge about the field: Merchandiser should have adequate knowledge

about the garments, Computer knowledge, and technical knowledge to

communicate with different people in the business is a must.

Co-ordinate and Co-operate: Merchandiser is the person who is actually

Co-ordinate with the number of departments. To Co-ordinate with different

people in the industry he should be co- operative.

Monitoring ability: Merchandiser should monitor to expedite the orders.

Other qualities: Education, Experience, Situational Management, Ability to

Evaluate, Dedication, knowledge of expediting procedures.

7.5 Scope of Marketing Activities of a Merchandiser:

Marketing activities is mainly controlled and performed by the merchandiser. The

activities of merchandising are as follows:

Initial inquiry.

Initial research & development.

Costing.

Cost sheet approval.

Order booking status management.

Sampling process.

Information handling & forwarding.

7.6 Flow Chart of a Merchandising Section:

Pre-meeting between buyer & Supplier

Receiving Specification sheet

Developing offer sample

Sending offer sample & getting approval

Order confirmed & P.O sheet received

Fit sample sending

96

Fit sample approval

Lab dip arrangement

Lab dip approval

Sending fabric & garments for testing attest center

Making SCOTA & sending for approval

After approval of SCOTA conducting PP meeting

Doing size set

In line Inspection

Booking for inspection at myshipment.com

If fail then booking for third party inspection

If pass, then sending goods at CTG port for dispatch

7.7 Garments Consumption and Costing:

Fabric consumption is an important task for garments merchandiser. Because 50%

cost for garments making is fabric. If fabric consumption and calculation is not

correct then company will face to huge loss. There are two formula or process of

fabric consumption for basic t-shirt. One in Centimeter and another in Inch. They are

given below.

1. Formula in Centimeter:

Fabric consumption =

2. Formula in Inch:

Fabric consumption =

In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. They just use the “Formula in Inch” for T-shirt.

Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:

Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),

(Yds.)

Here, Body Width = {(Waist Width + HIP) / 2} + {(Thigh + Bottom) / 2}

97

7.8 Major Buyer and Product Label:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Is a 100% Export oriented industry no product can be marketed

at the Local market. The goods produced at this factory are exported at different

countries of the world. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has a number of renowned buyers.

Following are the important buyers of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Tom-Tailor

American Eagle

J.C. Penny

Lerros

Street One

Innovation Club

Gerry Weber

TK International

Primark

Walmart

MMC

Following are the different local Buyer whose provide Sub-contracts for

Texeurop (BD) Ltd.

Teba Group

Pantex and Scarlet (Garments industry of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.)

Epic Group

Islam Group

Hi-Fashion

Matrix

Needle touch

Brine Knit

Dip Knit

7.9 Product Label:

There are following labels used by this mill:

1) Care Label: It contains washing in hot or cold water, chemical cleaning, drying

conditions etc.

2) Size Label: It contains size of garments.

98

3) Composition Label: It contains the fabric composition of different fibre type.

4) Decorative Label: Decoration is as buyer or consumer choice wise.

7.10 Package Size & Label Market:

Package size & label differs from buyer to buyer. The Package size & label are

prepared according to the buyer requirements. Normally the following package sizes

are used: -

60 x 40 x 40 cm.

58 x 33 x 44 / 43 / 42 cm.

58 x 33 x 25 cm.

58 x 33 x 13 / 16 / 18 cm.

7.11 Local Market:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is 100% export oriented mill. So there is no local market

involved in it. But the knitting section takes some sub-contact for knitting an amount

of fabrics from their given yarn.

Importing Countries:

There are some countries which are importing goods from Texeurop (BD) Ltd. which

are given below:

United State of America

England

France

Germany

Italy

UK

99

CHEPTER 8

CONTROL OF KNIT FABRIC PARAMETERS

8.1 Preparing Comparative Table for Different Required and Performed Data on Dia, GSM, Shrinkage & Spirality.

Table 8.1: For single jersey fabric

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD

SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC

Sl No Buyer

Name

Order

no.

color Yarn

Count

Com

b/

Card

Knitting

Dia/G

S.L Req.

Dia

Afte

r

Dia

Req.

G.S.M

After

G.S.

M

Shrinkage %

Compac

tion %

Spirali

ty %

Ope

n/Tu

be

L

W

01 Scarlet 39795 Cream 24 Card 30/24 2.7 75 75 180 165 -5.0 -4.0 15 1 Ope

n

02 Hi

Fashion

39692 black 26 Com

b

30/24 2.9 32 32.7 160 157 0 -5.0 10 1 Tube

03 Pantex 39593 Red bud 22 Card 28/24 2.7 60 59 190 194 -5.0 -2.0 20 0 Ope

n

04 Pantex 39749 Grish

chin

22 Card 25/24 2.7 25 25.5 190 192 -2.0 -5.0 10 1 Tube

05 Brine

Knit

39797 black 70 71 120 121 -4.0 -10.0 10 5 Ope

n

06 Mondol 533165 orange 72 72.5 150 151 -7.0 -5.0 5 4 „‟

07 Needlto

uch

Willso

m

Yellow 38 38.5 180 175 -5.0 -2.0 - 1 Tube

100

Table 8.2: For lycra-single jersey fabric

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD

LYCRA-SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC

SL. No

Buyer

Name

Order

no.

Color Yarn

Cou-nt

Comb/

Card

Knittin

g

Dia×G

S.L Req.

Dia

Afte

r Dia

Req.

G.S.M

After

G.S.

M

Shrinkage %

Spiralit

y %

Compac

tion % Open/

Tube

L

W

1 Pantex 39765 Grish

chin

34 Card 34×24 3 73 74 190 189 -4.0 -8.0 2 15 Open

2 Teba 39775 4016 40 „‟ 30×24 3.1 69 69.2 160 160 -5.6 -5.2 2 10 „‟

3 Grey

Weaber 39822 334 34 „‟ 30×24 2.95 62 60.5 190 177 -3.5 -6.0 2 3 „‟

4 Sea Tex 39798 Mid

.night

32 „‟ 30×24 2.85 60 63 220 247 -5.5 --8.0 4.5 15 „‟

5 ” 39788 Mid

night

„‟ 32×18 68 68.5 220 252 -5.0 -12.5 2 14 „‟

6 FRC 39762 Grey

Mellan

ge

30 „‟ 30×24 3 154cm 158

cm

210 205 -6.0 -5.0 1.5 14 „‟

7 Walmart 39765 White 34 „‟ 32×24 68 68 190 192 -5.5 -3.5 3 12 „‟

101

Table 8.3: For Lycra pique

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD

FABRIC: L PIQUE

SL. No Buyer

Name Order

no.

COLOU

R

Yarn

Cou-

nt

Comb/

Card

Knittin

g

Dia*G

S.L (mm)

Req

.

Dia

Afte

r Dia

Req.

G.S.M

After

G.S.M

Shrinkage

% Compecti

on (%)

Spira

lity(

%)

Ope

n/T

ube

L

W

1 Pantex 39744 Violet 36 Comb 34*18 2.7 84 83.5 210 197 -12.0 -3 10 2 Open

2 Pantex 39744 Violet 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60.5 220 222 -3.66 -9.66 10 0.2 Open

3 H & M 71332

1 27980 42 Comb 36*18 2.65 56 56 220 119 -4.0 -6.0 5 3 Open

4 H & M 71333

1 87764 42 Comb 34*18 2.65 56 57 200 180 -10.16 -5.33 5 0.5 Open

5 H & M 71332

0 87810 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60 58 220 235 -6.83 -10.6 10 0.0 Open

6 H & M 71335

1 28062 36 Comb 34*18 2.7 57 58 220 203 -7.66 -5.16 5 2.5 Open

7 H & M 71323

0 87815 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60 60.5 220 114 -1.5 -7.5 4 3 Open

102

Table 8.4: For (1×1) rib

TEXEUROP (BD) LTD

FABRIC: (1×1) Rib

SL.

No

Buyer

Name Order

no.

Color Yarn

Coun

t

Comb/

Card

Knitting

Dia×G

S.L (mm)

Req. Dia

(Inch)

After Dia

(Inch)

Req.

G.S.

M

After

G.S.

M

Shrinkage

%

Spiral

ity

(%)

Compa

ction

(%)

Open/

Tube

L

W

1 Pantex 39757 L.laven

der

26 Card 34×18 2.72 70 70.5 220 202 -6.5 -8.0 1 10 Open

2 “ 39757 “ 26 „‟ 34×18 2.72 70 70 220 204 -7.5 -11 1 12 „‟

3 “ 39778 White 24 „‟ 32×18 2.75 67.0 67.2 220 210 -6.5 -

10.5

1 14 „‟

4 V.baudet 39802 Stripe 30 „‟ 34×18 2.72 68 70 180 178 -6..89 -

6.81

2 5 „‟

5 Teba 39790 3010 30 „‟ 36×18 2.7 72 72 180 182 -8.0 -8.0 1 10 „‟

6 Lerros sample Red+

Navy

60 61 160 153 -7.0 -5.0 2 12 „‟

7 Teba sample stripe 30 „‟ 32×18 2.75 68 66.5 180 212 -1.0 -7.0 1 15 „‟

8 Lerros develop

ment

Blue+N

avy

26 „‟ 36×20 2.75 60 60 220 224 -7.5 -3.5 1 5 „‟

103

8.2 Relation Between Finished G.S.M. and Yarn Count of Various

Fabrics

Table 8.5: Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of s/j and rib fabric

Single Jersey

Rib

Yarn count Finished G.S.M. Yarn count Finished G.S.M.

18 s 220-230 18

s 280-290

20 s 200-220 20

s 260-280

24 s 180-190 24

s 240-250

26 s 160-170 26

s 230-240

28 s 150-160 28

s 220-230

30 s 140-150 30

s 200-220

34 s 120-130 34

s 180-200

Table8.6: Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of knitted fabrics

Interlock Lycra S/J

Yarn count Finished G.S.M. Yarn (Lycra) count Finished G.S.M.

34 s 250-270 30

s +20D 190-200

36 s 230-250 34

s+20 D 180-190

38 s 200-210 38

s+20 D 160-170

40 s 190-200 40

s+20 D 150-160

Table8.7: Relation between G.S.M. and yarn count of fleece fabric and double lacoste

Fleece Fabric (100% Cotton) Double Lacoste

Yarn count G.S.M. Yarn count G.S.M.

34s+34

s+10

s 260-270 22

s 240-260

30 s +34

s+10

s 280-290 24

s 220-240

28 s+30

s+10

s 290-300 26

s 200-220

26 s+30

s+10

s 310-320 28

s 180-200

24 s

+30 s+10

s 340-350 30

s 160-180

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CHAPTER 9

GARMENTS SECTION

9.1 Introduction:

Bangladesh is a developing country and her development mostly depends on earnings

of foreign currency & other industries. Among the industries, garments industries

plays a vital role to earn foreign currency about 85% compared to other industry or

products. Most of the garments are export oriented and export their RMG (T-shirt,

Polo shirt, Hood jacket, Denim, Trouser, various types of dresses & wearing etc.)

products. But in present situation, large number of countries are competitors of

Bangladesh, for example; China, India, Pakistan, Srilanka etc. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is

also an export oriented, compliance and first category composite factory that exports

various type of knitted garments to USA, Canada, Germany and European countries.

9.2 Garments Making Sequence:

Pattern Design:

The pattern maker now develop first pattern for the designing any one standard size.

This is made by pattern drafting method to make the sample garment for test fit.

Fig 9.1: Garments pattern and component

Sample Making:

The first patterns are sent to the sewing unit for assembling them into garment. This is

usually stitched on calico or muslin which is an inferior quality of fabric and it

reduces cost. This sample is constructed to analyze the pattern fit and design too.

105

After the sample garment is stitched it is reviewed by a panel of designers, pattern

makers and sewing specialists. Here the necessary changes are done.

Fig 9.2: Sample of a T-Shirt

Production Pattern:

The pattern design is now taken for creating the production patterns. The production

pattern is one which will be used for huge production of garments. The pattern maker

makes the patterns on standard pattern making paper. These papers are made-up of

various grades. A garment sewing pattern or garment fabric & patterns draft is

developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements;

(a) direct sample (b) specification sheet/ measurement chart (c) actual body size

measurements (d) ease allowances (e) sewing allowance. These allowances are

different for different type of fabrics and patterns.

Grading:

The purpose of grading is to create patterns in different standard sizes. Grading a

pattern is really scaling a pattern up or down in order to adjust it for multiple sizes.

Pattern sizes can be large, medium and small or else there are standard patterns of size

10, 12, 14, 16 and so on for different Fig and statures sizes. This is generally how we

get S M L XL XXL sizing. Pattern grading by manual method is a cumbersome task

because the grader has to alter the pattern on each and every point from armhole, to

neckline, sleeve cap and wrist etc

Marker Making:

The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and

size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric

layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the

patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples.

Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during

cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how

106

much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore

careful execution is important in this step.

Computer marking is done on specialized software. In computerized marking there is

no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical

calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Fig 9.3: Marker making

Fabric Spreading:

Fabric is spreaded either manually/ with the help of a spreading machine. Lay after

lay are spreaded for cutting. For stripe/check fabric cutting extra care is taken to

match the check.

Fabric Cutting:

Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for

making garments. Fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable

for the type of the cloth. Straight knife is used to cut off the cloths according to the

marker.

Sorting or Bundling:

The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them.

This step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns

can create severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style size

and the marker too is attached with it.

Sewing or Assembling:

The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment

manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to

other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality

107

control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye

on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process.

There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In

this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One

operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet

another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various

industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make.

These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work

sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang

machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a

single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that

station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are

assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.

Fig 9.4: Sewing or assembly

Inspection:

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches,

improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of

the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely. During processing

the quality control section needs to check each prepared article against these defects.

Fig 9.5: Garments inspection

108

Pressing or Finishing:

The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to

change the finished surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain

other combination. Pressing, pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes.

Creasing is mostly done before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff.

Creasing is also done before decorating the garment with something like a pocket,

appliqués, embroidered emblems etc.

Final Inspection:

Fig 9.6: Final inspection

For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and

standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, designs and the final finished

garments. Quality control in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales

service, delivery, pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or

exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like

Sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects should never be over looked.

Packing:

The garments are then packed in the poly bag with provided stickers, tags etc.

Cartooning:

The packed garments are then put in carton according to instruction or size ratio,

mentioned in order sheet.

Shipment or Dispatch:

Then the garments are sent to the part mentioned from buyer side

9.3 Production Section:

9.3.1 Different Sewing Machines SPI Range and Thread

Consumption:

Table 9.1: SPI range & thread consumption

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Machine type SPI No of thread Thread consumption

Plain machine 9-10 2 3

Over lock 13-14 3 9

Flat lock 9-10 3 17

9.3.2 Number of Machines Required as per Products:

T-shirt → 22 Hood jacket → 65

Trouser → 56

9.3.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments:

Skip stitch. Sewing rejection. Dirty spot

Broken stitch. Printing problem. Oil stain

Open stitch. Embroidery defect. High low

Needle mark Shading problem. Creased mark

Puckering. Yarn contamination.

9.3.4 Total production in sewing section:

T- Shirt = 14000-15000 pcs/day

Trouser = 800 pcs/day

Hood jacket = 1300 pcs/day

9.3.5 Production Time and Cost:

Table 9.2: Production time and cost

Line Stop

machine

Quantity

From To Hours Total

Hours

Loss

(BDT)

01 10 12.00am 05.00pm 4 40 3120

02 50 08.00am 12.00am 4 200 115600

10 8 02.00pm 00.50pm 3 24 1872

11 10 02.00pm 00.50pm 3 30 2340

16 2 10.00pm 11.00am 1 2 156

Total 80 15 296 23088

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9.4 Different Calculation Related to Production Efficiency:

a) Factory efficiency % = 100

For T- Shirt = × 100 = 77% For Hood jacket = × 100 = 86%

For Trouser = × 100 = 88% For Polo shirt = × 100 = 87%

Man to machine ratio Cut to ship ratio

Total no. of machine = 417 Total cut

= Buyers quantity 8 3 % extra cut Total worker & helper = (425+96)

= 521 Suppose order quantity

= 10000 pcs T-shirt Man to machine ratio = 521:417

= 1.25:1 Cut to ship ratio = 10300:10000

= 1.03:1

b) Order to ship ratio = 1:1

c) On time delivery = ×100

= ×100

= 100 %

d) Style change over time = 5-6 hours for trouser

= 3-3.5 hours for T-shirt

= 3-4 hours for hood jacket

e) Right first time quantity% = 100

= 100

= 93%

f) Average defects per hundreds units = 100

= 100 = 5%

g) Down time % = ×100

h) Average down time = hrs

=

111

= 2-3.3 hrs

Down Time Percentage = × 100 = 20%

i) Absenteeism = 2%

j) Labor turnover

= total no of employees that have left the company during the week / total no. of

employees beginning of week%

= × 100

= 2.857%

9.5 Processes Sequence of T-Shirt Making:

Table 9.3: Processes sequence of t-shirt making

Sl.

No.

Process Machine

Type

No. of

Needle

No. of

Thread

Production

/hour

1 Shoulder tape join Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs

2 Neck join with rib Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs

3 Rib cut Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

4 Neck closing Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs

5 Back tape piping Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs

6 Can tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

7 Front neck top sin Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs

8 Back neck top sin Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs

9 Size label Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

10 Shoulder scissoring Scissor 100-120 Pcs

11 Sleeve tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

12 Sleeve join Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs

13 Side seam Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs

14 Sleeve tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

15 Hem tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

16 Bottom hem Flat lock 3 6 100-120 Pcs

17 Sleeve hem Flat lock 3 6 100-120 Pcs

18 Security tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

19 Care label joining Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs

112

CHAPTER 10

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is considered as important as other engineering functions. It makes

responsible for provision of a condition of machines, buildings and services that will

permit uninterrupted implementation of plans requiring their use.

10.1: Objectives of Maintenance:

To keep the factory-plants, equipment‟s, machine tools etc. in an optimum

working conditions.

To ensure specified accuracy to products and time schedule of delivery to

customers.

To keep the down time of machines to the minimum thus to have control over

the production program.

To keep the production cycle with in the stipulated range.

To modify the machine tools to meet the augmented need for production.

To improve productivity of existing machine tools and to avoid sinking of

additional capital.

To reduce the maintenance costs as for as possible thereby leading to a

reduction in factory overheads.

To prolong the useful life of the factory, plant and machinery, while retaining

their acceptable level of accuracy of performance thus avoiding or postponing

incurring of heavy capital expenditure involved in their replacement.

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10.2 Organogram of Maintenance Section:

10.3 Maintenance of

Machinery:

Fig 10.2: Maintenance of machinery

Preventive maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time

inspection/checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production

break downs or harmful description.

Asst. General Manager

Asst. Engineer

Sub Asst. Engineer

WTP Generator

Unit Compresse

d

Air Unit

Boiler

Unit

Operato

r

Helper

Operato

r

Operator Operato

r

Helper Helper Helper

Operato

r

Helper

ETP

Fig 10.1: Organogram of maintenance section

114

Break down maintenance:

In this case repairs are made after the equipment is out of order & it cannot perform

its normal functions.

Routine maintenance:

Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance

department. Normally in case of dyeing machine Maintenance after 30 days complete

checking of different important parts are done.

10.4 Economic Consideration of Maintenance:

It is very profitable activity & ensures maximum productivity at minimum

costing.

It improves product quality.

It ensures less time to produce a specific product.

It improves machine accuracy.

It maintains a long life of the machine.

10.5 Maintenance Flow Chart:

Head of Maintenance

↓

Technician

↓

Assistant

10.6 Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance:

A Shift 6 AM - 2 PM

B Shift 2 PM - 10 PM

General Shift 9AM - 6 PM

10.7 Functions of Maintenance Personnel:

Inspection or Check-Ups:

External inspections: Watching and detecting defects form abnormal sound,

vibration, heat, smoke etc. when machine is in operation.

Internal inspections: Inspection of parts such as gears, bushes, bearings,

tolerances in the parts etc. when machine is under pre-planned shutdowns.

115

Inspections of important machines: Machines, which can disrupt whole of

the production, are delicate and require much time for the repair. Attentions

are given for inspection of these machines and schedule for inspection,

cleaning lubrication are done rigidly.

Inspections of ordinary machines: Frequency of inspection of ordinary

machines is kept as low as they do not affect the production.

Lubrication: Mechanical components like gears, bearings, bushes and other

friction surfaces etc. give good performance for long periods when they are

systematically lubricated. Systematic lubrication means the application of right type

of lubricants at the right time, at right place and in right quantity. For lubrication, a

lubrication schedule should be prepared and that should be followed strictly. Here

lubrication is done whenever is needed.

Planning and scheduling: Every preventive maintenance work should be

preplanned in detail on the basis of the analysis done on the past records. A scheduled

programmed thus prepared should be followed strictly. Thus programmed should be

in detail specifying the point-requiring daily, weekly, monthly, half yearly or

yearly attention.

Records and analysis: Good record keeping is essential for good maintenance, as

it helps in for casting maintenance. For this purpose following records are generally

maintained:

° Operation manual

° Maintenance and instruction manual

° History Cards and History Registers

° Spares Procurement Registers

° Spare Procurement Register

° Inspection Register

° Log books

° Defect Register etc.

Training of Maintenance personnel: For the success of maintenance sound training is

essential for the maintenance personnel. Hence the technicians and supervisors are

trained to carry out maintenance, inspection and repaired in a systematic way.

116

Storage of Spare Parts: Sometimes machine remains idle for want of spare parts

for considerable time and thus it affects considerable loss of production. Hence it is

essential to keep the spare parts so as to avoid loss of production.

10.8 Maintenance Tools/Equipment’s & Their Functions:

Table 10.1: Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions

Maintenance tools/equipment’s Functions

Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts

Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting

Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting

Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt fitting

Hammer To apply load where required

Screw driver To release any screw

Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft

Lock Opener To open the clip of bearing

Hack saw To cut any metallic thing

Outside calipers To measure outside dia

Inside calipers To measure inside dia

Slide calipers To measure very small dia

Vernier scale To measure very small dia

Chain ton To lift heavy load

10.9 Maintenance Procedure:

Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure

following points should be checked:

Table 10.2: Maintenance of Stenter machine

SL. No. Items need to be checked & Serviced

1. Check and tightening all motor terminals and clean the motor fan (30days).

2. Check activity of wide and sensor and pneumatic regulator.

3. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals

4. Clean the A/C ventilation fans of panel board

5. Check the fan and the heat sink o the inverters in the panel board.

6. Check and tightening the edge sensors.

117

7. Check and tightening the photo sensor terminals.

8. check and tightening the safety light barrier and tightening the terminals.

9. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel.

10. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and the emergency switch.

10.10 The following tasks are generally done during maintenance:

Inspections & check ups

Lubrications

Planning & scheduling

Record analysis

Training of the maintenance crew

Collection or purchase of spares

10.11 Maintenance schedule of the machines:

Boiler Maintenance Schedule:

Daily:

Check gas pressure

Maintain log sheet

Chemical dosing

Weekly:

Check all steam line

Fire quality of boiler

Monthly:

Check all steam line

Fire quality of boiler

Gas consumption report

Burner clean.

Quarterly:

Burner clean

Economizer clean

Feed tank clean

Chemical tank clean

Sight glass clean

Half yearly:

118

Burner clean

Feed tank clean

Chemical tank clean

Economizer clean

Replace gasket

Replace valve

Check gas line & filter & pressure

Yearly:

overhauling of boiler

Chemical cleaning of boiler

Safety valve test

Economizer clean

Feed tank clean

Chemical tank clean

Burner clean

Check safety valve setting

Replace valve & gasket

Boiler inspection by authority & gasket

Boiler inspection by authority

Dyeing machine maintenance Schedule

Daily:

Check belt tension

Check steam or water system & air supply

Check chemical pump

Machine clean

Weekly:

Bearing & belt check

Check leakage of air, steam &

Water line

Greasing bearing points

Add gland packing at pump

119

Monthly:

Greasing bearing points

Replace bearing points (if required)

Gasket check

Clean steam trap

Lubricating all chemical pump

Quarterly:

Replace belts

Repairing of pulley, shaft & bearing housing

Painting m/c & pipe line

Clean steam trap

Replace seals (if leakage)

Change gasket of steam of water lines

Half yearly:

Replace belts

Repairing pulley, shaft & bearing housing

Painting m/c, pipe line

Replace seals

Machine body repairing

Yearly:

Machine overhauling

Remarks:

The maintenance department of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is well equipped. It has sufficient

maintenance manpower including mechanical and electrical engineers. They do the

maintenance of them machine during the Eid vacation. Otherwise, they do the

breakdown maintenance. To increase the lifetime of the machineries and ensure the

proper running of the machinery.

120

CHAPTER 11

UTITLITY SERVICES

Production and profit are closely related. In order to get quality final product it needs

fresh raw materials as well as effective manpower and machinery in good condition.

Utility in conjugation with the three M‟s plays an important role to maximize the

production as well as the profit.

11.1 Essential Utility and Source:

Table 11.1: Essential Utility and Source

Utility Source

Electricity Generator

Gas TITAS

Compressed air Compressor

Steam Boiler

Water Natural Water by pump

Temp.Control AC

11.2 Functions of Utility

Utility ensures power supply by generator.

Utility ensures water supply by pump.

It ensures steam by boiler.

It ensures compressed air handling by vacuum planning system.

It provides fuel and gas supply.

It provides workshop facilities.

11.3 Electricity

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has two generators for power supply to ensure continuous dyeing

& knitting operation and help to fulfill their target production in garments. Gas

generator is widely used because of lower production cost.

Specification of generator:

Generator-1:

121

Type : Gas Generator

Manufacturer : Bangla cat

Manufactured Country : USA

Year of Construction : 2005

Rated Power : Prime

Capacity : 1030 KW

Efficiency : 90%

Voltage : 440

Frequency (Hz) : 50 Hz

Rotating Speed (RPM) : 1500

No of pump : 2

Gas pressure : 14 psi (9 psi minimum)

Oil required : 6-7 litter/day

Cylinder No : 16

Gas consumed : 5 lac in BDT

Generator-2:

Type : Gas Generator

Manufacturer : Bangla cat

Manufactured Country : USA

Year of Construction : 2005

Rated Power : Prime

Capacity : 1600 KW

Efficiency : 90%

Voltage : 440

Frequency (Hz) : 50 Hz

Rotating Speed (RPM) :1500

No of pump : 2

Gas pressure : 14 psi (9 psi minimum)

Oil required : 9-10 litter/day

Cylinder No. : 16

Gas consumed : 6 lac in BDT

Besides these two generator, Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has 10 KW national power grid

electric

connection.

122

11.4 Power consumption of different sections:

In Dyeing floor : 700-750 KW

Knitting floor : 5.5 KW/machine

In garments : 450 KW.

11.5 Water:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has own source of water from deep tubewell by a submersible

pump.

Water treatment plant:

Water Softening Method : Base Exchange Process

Depth of each pump : 500 ft.

Production capacity : (of deep tube well)

Pump-1 : 175-200 m3/hr. with 50-55 hp

Pump-2 : 150 m3/hr. with 38-42 hp

Delivery of Soft water:

Pump-1 : 150 m3/hr.

Pump-2 : 100 m3/hr.

Required water : Average less than 200 m3/hr.

Hardness of unprocessed water: 80-130 ppm

Hardness of processed water : 0-5 ppm

Total project cost : 143 lac

11.6 Water Supply Details:

There are two deep tubewell for supplying water in the factory. This unit collects

water from the underground and supplied into Oxidation tank of 40ft diameter and

16ft depth. Then water taken into Sand filter by a pump and then to the Resin filter.

SODIUM XEOLITE is used as Resin. For dyeing section 02-05 ppm hardness is

maintain. This collecting water is reserve in reserve tank and then supply everywhere

in the factory by the booster pump .Back wash: It is done to remove the waste from

the filter (sand or resin) and it is given for 1 hour. Salt wash: When the desired

hardness of water can‟t be found then a salt wash is done. Here a salt solution is

poured into the resin filter for 15 min during that time the valve of sand filter remain

123

closed. After 15 min the valve is open and then normal and salt water mixed and

come through resin filter. Then hardness measured is time to time until desired

hardness is found.

11.7 Hardness Test Method:

Procedure:

1. Take 100 ml of sample water in a beaker.

2. Add 5 ml (NH)4 Cl Buffer solution.

3. Pour 1-2 drops of Erichrome black T solution.

4. Finally titrate it against EDTA (0.01M) solution.

11.8 Calculation:

1 ml of 0.01 M EDTA = 1 mg

Total hardness = volume of EDTA * 10 ppm.

100 ml sample are taken. But for ppm sample will be 1 litter, so the result will be 100

times more.

11.9 Steam Supply:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd use two boiler to supply steam for different operation where it is

necessary.

Specification of boiler:

Boiler -1:

Type of Boiler : Fire tube boiler

Company name : Cleaver & books

Model : CB700600150

Country : USA

Max working Pressure : 150(PSI)

Running working pressure : 100 psi

Capacity : 10 ton steam/hr.

Actually produce : 9.4 ton/hr.

BTU/HR : NAT

Heating surface : 3000 sft

Vapor Production capacity : 20700lb/hr.

Electricity Required : 25 KW

Boiler-2:

Type of Boiler : Fire tube boiler

124

Company name : Cleaver & books

Model : CB400600150

Country : USA

Max. working Pressure : 150(PSI)

Running working pressure : 100 psi

Capacity : 10 ton steam/hr.

Actually produce : 9.4 ton/hr.

BTU/HR : NAT

Heating surface : 3000 sft

Vapor Production capacity : 20700lb/hr.

Electricity Required : 25 KW

Power Supply : 3 phase

Frequency : 50 Hz

Volts : 415 volts, 54 amp

Min .circuit ampacity : 61.5 amp

Max. rating of circuit protection: 216 amp

Blower motor : 20Hp

Air compressor : 7.5 hp

Oil heater : 7.5 KW

Control circuit : 120V, 1 phase, 50 hz,

Oil pump motor : 415 V, 3 phase, 50 hz, 1.8 amp.

Source of water in Boiler : Soft water from water treatment plant are used in this

two fire tube Boiler

Chemicals used : There are two chemicals are used in boiler for

removing scaling. And this chemicals are dosed with

soft eater into the boiler throughout 24 hours by drop.

Chemicals are Protector 2001 (scale inhibitor for

boiler) Eraser 1001 (water scale inhibitor)

Approximately 16 lac BDT has been invested in this two Boiler.

11.10 Compressed Air Supply:

Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required.

In Texeurop (BD) Ltd .There are two compressors are used to produce and deliver

compressed air to different section.

125

11.11 Specification of Compressor:

No of compressor : 02

Manufacturer : ATLAS Copco Airpower

Origin : Germany

Type : GA55C

P max. : 10 bar, 145 psi, 1 MPa

P motor : 55KW, 75 hp

n motor : 2975 r/min

Air pressure : 08 bar (For factory)

Max pressure : 10 bar

Air suck : 5.83m3/min

- Temperature of compressor should not exceed 100 C

- Normal temperature : 94-98 C

- No of Reservoir : 1

- Capacity of Reservoir : 1000 L

- 30% of total produced compressed air is used in Dyeing floor and others are used in

Knitting and garments.

11.12 Gas:

The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD.

The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water)

from the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.

11.13 Cost of Different Utilities:

Electricity cost:

REB : 3.8 TK / KW-HR

Gas generator : 1.80 TK / KW-HR

Gas cost:

For boiler : 4.94 Tk/m³

For generator : 3.66 Tk/m³

For domestic purpose : 4.5 Tk/m³

Steam cost:

Per kg of fabric : 4.30 Tk.

126

CHAPTER 12

STORE & INVENTORY

12.1 Introduction:

Inventory is planning and execution involves participation by most of the

fundamental segment of business sales, production, purchase, finance and

accounting. Inventory is a wider sense is defined as any idle resource of an

enterprise however it is semi-finished packing spares and other stocked in order to

meet an expected demand or distribution.

12.2 Objectives of Inventory Control:

1) Financial activities:

a) To save amount of investment

b) To know the cash position

2) Property Protection:

a) Preventable waste

b) Insurable damage

c) Unauthorized use

3) Operating:

a) To obtain the best overall balance between production and inventory carrying

cost.

b) To minimize losses

c) To avoid stock out and to keep inventory holding costs in costs in balance.

12.3 Scope of Inventory Control:

Raw materials

Dyes store.

Other chemicals.

Grey fabrics.

Finished fabric.

Spare parts.

General store:

Capital equipment‟s.

127

Accessories.

Stationary.

Maintenance parts.

12.4 Frequency of Inventory Update:

1. Monthly inventory control

2. Annual inventory control

12.5 Inventory Procedure:

Bin Card

Store Requisition

Store Ledger Account

Daily Inspection & Package Report

Monthly Stock & Consumption Report

Monthly L/C wise Delivery Report

Received Delivery & Balance Stock

12.6 Inventory Control System for Raw Materials:

Dye store & other chemicals store.

Both of these are received by the store in charge.

First he sends these to quality in-charge for inspection. If they are found to be

of required quality then they are taken to store by the storekeeper.

Store in-charge supplies these when required and records the date, type of

material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book.

12.7 Grey fabric store:

Grey fabric is usually stored in another storeroom, which is separate from

dyeing shade.

Grey fabric is first sent to the QC department for quality assurance and then

taken to the storeroom.

Grey fabric is received by fabric store in-charge.

He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of


At present the grey fabrics store of Texeurop (BD) LTD. containing the

following types of fabrics-

Single jersey.

1x1 Rib.

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2x2 Rib.

2x1 Rib.

Mélange.

Pique.

Single jersey (with Lycra attachment)

1x1 Rib (with Lycra attachment) etc.

Single locust

Double locust

Fleece

Terry Fleece

Interlock

12.8 Stages of Grey Fabric Inventory Control:

After knitting production.

Grey inspection.

Warehouse.

Batch preparation.

Dye house.

In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. we found grey fabric inventory amount is:

Weight = 1,56,733 kg.

12.9 Inventory Control System for Finished fabric:

Finished fabric from the compactor or Stenter goes to inspection team. Here

inspection is done by a four points system.

Required GSM, width (diameter), shrinkage, spirality, wash fastness, rubbing

fastness etc. are tested from the lab before packaging.

After finishing the fabric is kept in package before their transfer to the

garments department.

It is controlled by the finishing in-charge who keeps a list of total finished

product. He also keeps a list of delivery products.

He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of


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12.10 Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control:

Finishing section.

After final inspection.

In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. we found finish fabric inventory amount is:

Weight = 1,40,700 kg .

Others:

There is a central store at Texeurop (BD) Ltd. In that store the various types of forms,

papers; stationary & other necessary goods are kept.

12.11 Inventory Control System for Spare Parts:

Spare store officer keeps the spare parts in store and makes a list of spare

parts.

If the spare parts are little in stock he gives requisition to maintenance

manager.

Maintenance manager gives requisition to head office. Head office imports

spare parts or buys from local market as per requirement.

As new spare parts arrive to store officer, he receives and catalogues them.

He supplies the spare parts as per requirement and records the date, type of


Remarks:

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods and spare

parts. The store of dyestuff and chemicals are not so clean. There is not enough space

to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area.

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CHAPTER 13

COST ANALYSIS

13.1 Introduction:

Costing system mainly describes how the cost of the final product is fixed by the

company/beneficial. So Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is

calculated. It is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.

And it is also strictly followed in the Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Costing of the products

considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers,

distributions and advertisement expenses etc. All direct and indirect expenses are need

to be considered during costing. It is determined by a team of accountants with advice

and consultancy of executive director.

13.2 Costing Of the Product:

The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in Texeurop (BD)

Ltd. Is:

Total cost of yarn

Cost of fabric Production

Total dyes & chemical cost

Total utility cost

Salary

Payment

Transport cost1

Miscellaneous cost

Government cash incentive

13.3 Price of the Product:

Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the total

expenses. So,

Price of products= (Direct expenses + Indirect expenses + Factory

Overhead) + Required profit

13.4 Price Range of Different Products:

T-Shirt = $0.75 - $4.50 /Pcs

Polo Shirt =$2.00 - $6.50 /Pcs Kids Wear ==$0.75- $2.15 /Pcs

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13.5 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics:

Table 13.1: Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics

Fabric name Charge per kg (Tk)

Single Jersey 09

Single Jersey with Lycra 30

Single lacost 16

Double Lacost 16

Rib 17

Rib with Lycra 30

Interlock 25

Fleece 22-25

13.6 Dyeing Charge of Different Fabrics:

Name of fabric process Charge per kg

(Tk)

White with Enzyme : 35

White without Enzyme : 30

Avg. color with Enzyme : 85

Avg. color without Enzyme (Light& med.) : 75

Deep shade with Enzyme (Black) : 110

Deep shade without Enzyme (Black) : 95

Only wash (Tubular) : 25

Only wash (Open) : 45

Double dyeing (Face & Back) :115

13.7 Finishing Charge of Different Fabrics:

Name of fabric process : Charge per kg

(Tk)

Slitting only : 5

Stenter only : 25

Compacting only : 15

Stenter + Compacting : 35

Stenter + Compacting+ wash : 50

Tube Compacting : 10

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13.8 Costing Of the Product:

Let price of yarn is : $ 3.00/ kg.

Process loss of yarn for knitting (10%) = $ 0.30

Knitting fabric cost = $ 3.30

Cost of dyes & chemicals = $ 2.50

Process loss for dyeing (12%) = $ 0.30

Dyed fabric cost = $ 6.10

Packing cost = $ 0.05

Production cost of fabric = $ 6.15

Fabric price (with 25% margin) = $ 7.79

Fabric consumption/ doz. =

(Body length + Sleeve length) x Chest length x 2 x GSM x12 /10000000

Garments specification (For a particular garment):

Body length =78 cm

Sleeve length =33 cm

Chest length =62 cm

GSM =210

Fabric consumption/ doz. = {(78+33) x62x2x210x12}/ 10000000 = 3.469 kg

Fabric consumption/ doz. (with 10% wastage) = 3.816 kg

Body fabric cost / doz. = $ (7.79x 3.816)

Cost of collar& cuff/ doz. = $ 4.00

Cost of Trims = $ 2.25

Cost of Trims (with 5% Process loss) = $ 2.36

Production Cost of Garments/ doz. = $36.09

Garments Price/ doz. (with 25% Profit) = $ 45.12

Remarks:

Proper Costing is very important for a productive factory. Without proper costing all

production will go to vain. Because a factory cannot reach to its goal without

achieving good profit and good profit is not possible without proper costing. So

costing should be done by a group of intelligent, experienced, highly qualified

personnel. Every Factory has some rules and regulations. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. did not

provide us all the documents of costing, because it‟s confidentially. So this Chapter is

not so sufficient to analyze the costing of product.

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CHAPTER 14

WATER & EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Water Softening Method : Base Exchange Process

Source of water : deep tube well. 6 inch, two well.

Pump Type : Submersible.

Production capacity : 100 m3 /hr.

14.1 Process Sequence of WTP:

Deep tube well (450~500ft, 6 inch, 2 pump)

↓

House

↓

WTP (2 plant)

↓

Stone Filter

↓

Resin Filter

↓

Pump

↓

Soft Water reservoir.

Fig 14.1: Water Reserve Tank

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Soft water

Tank

Resin Tank-1

Resin Tank-2

Fig 14.2: Different tanks of WTP process.

14.2 Determination of Hardness of Water:

Reagents

Ammonia – Ammonium Chloride Buffer solution.

Erichrome Black –T solution.

0.01M EDTA standard solution.

Preparation of Ammonia – Ammonium Chloride Buffer solution: Dissolve 67gms,

ammonium chloride to 570 ml concentrated ammonia and then make up the solution

to one litter by distilled water.

Preparation of Erichrome Black- T solution: Dissolve 75 ml Tri-ethanolamine to

25 ml ethanol and then add 0.5 gm Erichrome Black –T in 100 ml volumetric flask.

Preparation of 0.01m EDTA standard solution: Dissolve 3.722 gms EDTA (

Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid) to one litter distilled water.

Procedure

Take 100 ml of sample water in a beaker.

Then add 5 ml (NH4)Cl Buffer solution in it.

Then add 1-2 drops of Erichrome Black –T solution and titrate it against EDTA

solution. The required amount (ml) of EDTA solution indicates the hardness of

water in degrees.

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THE EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

The Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has well organized Effluent treatment plant. Normally the

effluent generated from different sections of a textile mill must be treated before they

are discharged to environment. Various chemicals & physical means are introduced

for this purpose. The effluent treatment plant in Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is chemical

biological combination process.

14.1.1 Objects:

This process is provided for treating the effluents of dyeing, printing, finishing,

weaving & thus allow to discharge effluent as per by World Bank dept. of environment

of Bangladesh.

Capacity : 40 tons/ hr.

Cost : Tk. 6 / Litter

10 lac BDT spend per month in ETP.

14.1.2 Requirement of discharge effluent as per World Bank:

PH : 6 – 8

BOD : < 50

COD : < 250

SS : < 100

TDS : Not stated

Colour : Clear

14.1.3 Chemical used:

1. Ferrous Sulphate.

2. Lime.

3. Polyelectrolyte.

4. HCl

14.1.4 Chemical using procedure:

- 80 Kg Ferrous sulphate is mixed with 1000L water.

- 50 Kg Lime is mixed with 1000L water.

- 1 Kg Polyelectrolyte is mixed with 1000L water.

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14.1.5 Product Quality Check:

Following chemical tests are carried out to check the quality:

BOD

COD

Total suspended solids

Total dissolved solids

Colour

PH

14.1.6 Typical Output of the Plant:

Raw effluent Colour : Black/deep purple

Raw effluent pH : 10

Raw effluent BOD : 175-200

Treated effluent Colour : Light greenish

Treated Effluent pH : 6-6.5

Treated Effluent Temp : 380

C

Treated effluent BOD : 60-100

14.1.7 Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment:

Raw effluent

↓

Equalization Tank

↓

Flash mixing Tank

↓

Flocculation tank

↓

Tube settler tank-1

↓

PH correction channel

↓

Bacteria reactor-1

↓

Bacteria reactor-2

↓

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Tube settler tank-2

↓

Filter feed sump

↓

Sludge Separation:

↓

Sludge of Tube settler

↓

Sludge thickening plant

↓

Centrifuge platform.

Remarks:

As the project Texeurop (BD) Ltd, it has vast utility systems. There is a skill

manpower, group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these

utility services. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of

responsibility for any type of problem due to utility supply.

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Compliance Policy:

The Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices. Our

goal is to continuously improve our Human Resource policies and procedures through

education, training, communication, and employee‟s involvement. To that end the

Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has identified eight (8) areas of importance. The Company

commits to management review, employees „open communication, policy

development and coordination with the SA 8000 standard to comply with all

State/Local laws and Industrial/Factory laws of Peoples Republic of Bangladesh to

provide a favorable employment environment that respects understands the needs of

its employees. The company commits to inform all employees of its policy and

position on the SA 8000 standard. All employees will be made aware of the Policy

and Company Statement upon implementation. Going forward all new employees will

be trained on SA 8000 in new employees‟ orientation. Periodically throughout the

year the company will reaffirm its commitment to the SA 8000 policy through

employee communications such as office notice, demonstration and payroll stuffers.

The eight (8) identified areas are:

a) Child Labor

b) Forced Labor

c) Health and Safety

d) Freedom of Assembly/ Right to Collectively Bargain

e) Discrimination

f) Disciplinary Practices

g) Working Hours

h) Remuneration/ Compensation

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Conclusion:

We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of almighty

Allah.

Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The

completion of the four weeks Industrial attachment at Texeurop (BD) Ltd. we have

got the impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit

composite complex in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few years ago, it

has earned “very good reputations” for its best performance over many other export

oriented textile mills.

During our training period, talking with the clients of this factory we knew that the

mill is fulfilling the country‟s best export oriented white finished fabric as well as

very good colored fabric due to its modern machinery & good management system.

Factory is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for

twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power

consumptions of the mill.

We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this

mill. During the training period we are received co-operation and association from the

authority full & found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working

condition. All stuffs & officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve

their goal.

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REFERENCES

1. Bellal, Allimuzzaman. Understanding Textiles For A Merchandising. 1st edn,

BMN3 foundation, Dhaka, Bangladesh. 2009

2. Kashem, Prof. M.A, Garments Merchandising. 2nd

edn, Books Fair, Dhaka,

Bangladesh. 2012

3. Factory Website: http//www.texuropbangladesh.com

4. Booth J E, Principles of Textile Testing, 3rd edn, Butterworth, London, 1968

5. Seville, B P, Physical Testing of Textiles, 1st edn, Textile Institute, Manchester,

1999.

6. Spencer, J David, Knitting Technology, Wood Head Publishing Ltd. 3rd

edn,

Cambridge, England. 2001.

7. Morton W E and Hearle JWS, Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, 3rd

edn,

Textile Institute, Manchester, 1993.

8. J G Cook, Handbook of Textile Fibres, 5th

edn, UK: Merrow Publish. Co., 1984.

report on industrial attachment at texeurop (db) ltd

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