E10 SUNDAY • APRIL 14, 2019

Puppies!Well, hello there, littlefellas!You’re so cute!

“I justwant to get everyone’sattention for aminute,” saidAlexYoung,whomight aswell havebeen tossing out $100billswhiletrying to rein in our groupof ninevisitors.

I felt bad for ignoringYoung,our tour guide atSoutheasternGuideDogs, anonprofit breeding,raising and training facility inPalmetto, Fla., but not enough tolisten towhat shewas saying.Because, puppies!

We’d spotted the five 7-week-old yellowLabrador retrieversbehindawindow, two snoozing ina spoonpositionand the restcompeting for space ona ledge togreet us, their tiny tailsmovinglikemini-wipers onhigh speed. Inreturn,weoohedandcooed,speaking inbaby talk.

Young finally toreus away, andstarted the tourwith an introduc-

tory videonarratedbySoutheast-ernCEOTitusHerman.

“I knowyou’re nothere to seeme,” hebegan. “You’re here to seepuppies.”

Indeed, the folkshere knowwhat they’re upagainst. Theyhope visitorswill learna few thingsabout this training ground forservicedogswhile intermittentlytakingus toworkareas thatmightcontainpuppies!

SinceSoutheastern startedbusiness in 1982, it hasbred, raisedand trained thousandsof dogs—Labrador retrievers, golden re-trievers andamixof the twocalledgoldadors, all working toward themissionof transforming the livesof people inneed. Its programstakedogs frombirth topuppypreschool andkindergarten tovolunteer “puppy-raiser” homesoff campus, thenback for ad-vanced training andultimatelyplacementwith the twomaincategories of people they serve.Guidedogs go to visually impaired

people, and servicedogs are forveteranswithdisabilities andGoldStar families.

Theorganization, housedona33-acre campusbetweenSt. Pe-tersburgandSarasota, employssomeof themost innovative scien-

tists and trainers in theworking-dog industry and says it operatesthemost advanced training facili-ties of any servicedogorganiza-tion in theworld. Southeasternmatches about 100 guide andservicedog teamsyearly and

estimates aprice tagof $50,000perdog tobreed, raise, train andmatch the canines.All services,including training and lifetimefollow-up, are free to recipients,and theorganization is fully

SERVICE DOG TRAINING CENTER’S MAIN DRAW: PUPPIES!They steal the show on public tours in Palmetto, Fla.,aimed at raising awareness at the nonprofit facilityBY DIANE DANIEL

A new puppy in the Southeastern Guide Dogs preschool is ex-posed to a variety of sights, sounds and textures.

SOUTHEASTERN GUIDE DOGS

If you go

Public tours at SoutheasternGuide Dogs are held several timesa week year-round and must bereserved in advance.

Address: 4210 77th St. E., Pal-metto, Fla.

Costs: Guided walking tours cost$15, and the multimedia presen-tation “Creation of a Superhero”costs $10. Walking tours, limitedto groups of nine, often sell out inadvance.

Gift shop hours: Open to thepublic 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.Monday through Saturday.

Contact: (941) 729-5665; guide-dogs.org

SEE DOGS • E12

In dizzyingly exoticMorocco, I’ll scurry past

snake charmers and lurching cobras, hang

onto a bouncy camel for dear life and haggle for

bargains inmysterious carpet-swathed ancient

medinas. And now, in the serene far-flung

mountains, I’m stooped inside a cubbyhole lime-

stone cave watching a crouching 75-year-old Berber

nomad namedAhmed hospitably brewmint tea for

me while his baa-ing sheep graze nearby. A father of

five with a weather-beaten, lined face, he’s cloaked

in a traditional beige djellaba robe and tagelmust

turban wrapped on his head and under his chin’s

graying beard. Although he speaks no English, he

welcomes a dozen of us who are on a rugged half-day

hike in the spectacular sheer-sided TodraGorge

when we stumble into his rockymakeshift camp.

“American.BarackObama,”myBerber translator-guidesoon tells him, pointing tome, the loneYankee, aswe siphottea inside a fraying goat-hair tent.

“Ahh,” the septuagenarian’s crinkly eyes light up.Henodsathis 3-year-old son—yes, his son—who it turns out is alsonamedBarack. (Ahmed’swife ismuchyounger, plus “nomadsare very strong,”mygrinning guide later explains.)

Thismemorableencounter—andmanymore—occursonmycaptivating15-day, 1,200-mile roadtripcrisscrossing theNorthAfricancountry ina tourvanwithsmall-groupadventurecompanyExodusTravels.We journeypast crumbling fairy-talefortressesonthepalm-tree-garnished“RouteofaThousandKasbahs,” exploreUNESCOWorldHeritagesites that lookstraightoutofaHollywoodmovie (in fact, “Gladiator”wasfilmedatonemedievalmud-brickenclave), andwithourExo-dusguideMohamedare immersed in thecolorful indigenousBerbercultureateverystop. (So far, I’ve swallowedanocean fullof “BerberWhiskey,” thealways-offeredsweetmint tea that isceremoniouslypoured into little clearglasses fromaheight—asnomadAhmeddid—toshowrespect toguests.MostBerbersareMuslimsandabstain fromalcohol.)Foraddedatmosphere,wesleep incenturies-oldmosaic-festoonedhomes(riads), aquirkycasbah-motif hotel andaBerberdesert tentcampsetdeep in titanic sanddriftsnearAlgeria.

“Balak!Balak!” shoutdonkey cart drivers,meaning “Moveaside!”which Ido, although I’mdistractedby two furry sev-ered camel headsdangling fromthe camelmeat shop inFez’s

The crumblingKasbah Telouetonce housed anotable familyand is amongmany castle-likecasbahs foundin Morocco.

The ancient mud-brick city Ait Ben Haddou,once a stopover for camel caravans, is now aUNESCO heritage site and backdrop forHollywood movies.

A Berber nomad pours tea for Westerners who arehiking past his campsite near the Todra Gorge.

Camel herders in Morocco cross the Erg Chebbi dunes, a sweeping sea of sand reaching skyscraperheights in some places.

ROADTHROUGHMOROCCOUp-close community visits, Berber hospitality filled 15-day tour with adventure, memories

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NORMAMEYER

SEEMOROCCO • E11

E11THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE SUNDAY • APRIL 14, 2019

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narrow, hustle-bustleUNESCO-laudedmedina.Theninth-century-foundedold town is amesmerizingtwistymazeof 9,400 skinnylanes, alleys anddeadendsjammedwithmerchandise-packed souks (spices, olives,rugs, brocade sequinedgowns forMoroccanbrideswhomayhaveup to sevenchanges of clothesduringtheirwedding), and intricatezellij-tiledmosques, cedar-carved Islamic academiesand iron-doored residences.Our local guide,Aziz, sternlywarnsus to followhim;hesays— jokingly, I think—that female touristswhogetlost endup inharems. It’slivinghistory on sensorysteroids—caftan-wearingcraftsmen loudly poundcopper andbrass intoteapots, pans and lanterns;weavers spin silk fromagavecactus into rainbow-brightbedspreadsand scarves,andgag-smelly tanneriesproduce leather goods fromanimal hidesdipped intovats of dye.

Forty-eighthoursafterfreneticFez,we’re in theexpansivepeacefuldesertonacrispFebruaryday. I’veriddenacamelbefore,but theone I teeteruponthis time issurely theworld’s tallestdromedary,his everystepsinking intobottomless sandontherollingErgChebbiduneswhile I tilt, flounceanddeath-grip smallhandlebars.The landscape is storybookbeautiful— just turquoiseskiesand infinitehoney-huedsandthatcanreach500 feethigh, thesame fableddesertthatancient camel caravanstraversedcarryingsalts, goldandspices toTimbuktu.

Abumpy90minutes later,atour simple tentcamp, Idismount (pitching forwardovermycamelwithascream).Mohamed, inBerber-style indigo-bluecloakand flowing turban,soon leadsusupagiganticdune, our shoespunchingcraters in flawlessly smoothsand.Fromatopthepowderypeak,we’re transfixedas thesettingsunradiates fieryorangeandpinkglowsoverwavywind-sculpteddunesthatgoon forever.Thenextpre-dawnmorning, I’mawak-enedbybellowingcamelsoutsidemytent (thinkofT-Rexroars).Ontherideback,myone-humpungulatefeels steadier, but then I’mentrancedby thedazzlingeggyolk-yellowsunrise.

What I like aboutExodus—besides alluring itinerar-ies andprices— is the com-pany’s charitable involve-mentwith visited communi-ties (this ismy third interna-tional tripwithExodus; 10 ofmyBritish travelmates aremulti-repeat customers).Oneafternoon,miles afterour excellentdriver, Youssef,deftly handles clifftophair-pin turns,wearrive at adirtpath for a 90-minutewalk—mules takeour luggage—tothe remote rural village ofTighza 6,200 feet up in thesnowcappedHighAtlasMountains.Here, some

olderBerberwomenhavetribal chin tattoos of dark,straight lines andgatherhefty bushels of alfalfa andbarley from fields.Also, thisiswhereExodus in 2012fundedandbuilt a custom-aryhammam,which is apublic bath that is an impor-tantplace for localwomen tosocialize. Tighza’s hammamalso generates income forvillagers sinceExoduspaysfor its ownclients,whoeachadd inanother 40dirham(about $4).

The followingday, I’mbasically in thebuff lyingface-uponaheated tile floorof an empty roomalongsidethree similar prone femaleExodus cohorts. Eachof ushas anassignedwomanvillager, allmodestly dressedandwearing traditionalheadscarfs,whobrisklyscrubsourbodywith anexfoliatingmitt andblack-olive-oil soap. I’malmostslap-happyaswood-heatedwarmwater is ladled from

largeplastic buckets andrepeatedly dousedoverme.This hammam is awonder-ful authentic experience,andanhour laterwhen it’sover, I’m rubber-kneedrelaxed.

Earlier, anotherBerbernamedAhmed—this one is32 years old—strollswithme throughTighzabeforegraciously invitingme formint tea inhis kitchenwithhismother and15-month-olddaughter. “Exodushasbeenvery very good tous,”he says.ThehammamandotherExodusdonationshaveprovidedmoney “forschools, for people to getoperations at thehospital ...to fixwater pipes, to rebuildhousesdestroyedby theflood” in 2014.Our groupsoondelivers packageswe’vebrought fromhome—classroomsupplies, garden-ing gloves and toothbrushes—toagrateful teacher at thevillage school.

Throughout our adven-

ture, hours on the roadareneverdull.We stop toamblethrough thedramaticRo-man ruins of onetime capitalVolubilis; peer at bizarreclimbinggoatswhoperchonhighbranches of argan treesto eat fruit, andwanderthroughaBerber open-airmarket sellingdehydratedchameleon lizards formag-ical cures. In the verdantValley of theRoses,webuyfloral toiletries at awomen-rundistillery before I devouranother lunchof cumin-spiced vegetable taginedelivered in anifty simmer-ing cone-shapedpot.

Wealso exploreAitBenHaddou, a stunningmedi-eval fortified city (ksar) ofclaydwellings onceonacrucial trade route andnowonRussell Crowe’s résumé.“Gladiator,” “GameofThrones,” “LawrenceofArabia” andotherHolly-wood farehave filmedwithinits invader-deterring earth-enwalls.

Then, surf’sup.Webunktwonights inEssaouira, ahistoricport townandwind-surfinghotspotontheAt-lanticOcean.TheUNESCO-listedmedinacharmswith itswhitewashedbuildings,royal-blueshuttersandEuro-peantouch. Justbewareofthebirds.At thehecticdocks,in frontofan imposing18th-century turretedcitadel,zillionsof squawkingseagullsswoopdowntopickup fishheadsandscraps thatwork-ers cutoff recentcatches.“Animalsarepeaceand love,”says robedvendorAbdul, ashe feedssardine leftovers tomeowingcats “JimiHendrix”and“BobMarley.”Thehu-man legendsvisited thisonetimehippiehaven in the’60s.

Our journey ends inwildly vibrantMarrakech,where I’m fendingoff hennatattooartists andnavigatingthrough leapingdrum-thumpingdancerswhen Ialmost stepon three cobrascoiledon thepavementwaiting for their star turn intheUNESCOsquare. I lovethis chaoticmassiveme-dina, teemingwith locals inpointy-hoodedankle-lengthdjellabas andcrammedwithbargain-ready souksover-

flowingwithMoroccanpottery, artisan lanterns,embellishedbabouche slip-pers, round loaves of khobzbread, andeven teeth-cleaning “Berber tooth-picks”made fromdriedfennel flowers.To combatthebad-karma “evil eye,”jewelry anddoor knockersare fashioned into the amu-letHandofFatima, namedafter prophetMuhammad’sdaughter. (Noworries I’llslip in the shower—thetowel hook inmyMarrakechriadbathroom is this five-fingeredpalm.)

Lookingback, thedayoftheTodraGorgehike andnomadAhmed,wehave latelunchat aBerber family’smud-and-strawabode,where I play catchwith thetoddler sonanddine onfluffy couscouswhile cus-tomarily sitting on floorcushions over a low table.Afterward, nextdoor at thevillage carpet shop, tur-banedmerchantMustafabrings out fringedpiles ofbeautiful, handwovenBerber rugs andoh-so-wisely remarks: “Travel isthebestwayof study.”

Meyer is a freelance travelwriter.

Tighza, a village in the High Atlas Mountains, is accessible by foot and donkey. The trek is part of the uniqueitinerary in Morocco planned by the small-group adventure company Exodus Travels.

NORMA MEYER PHOTOS

In Morocco, goats weirdly climb argan trees to eatthe fruit. Argan oil, from trees endemic to Morocco, isused for cosmetics and cooking.

MOROCCOFROM E10

If you go

The tour: Exodus Travels offers the 15-day “Highlights ofMorocco” trip multiple times through 2019 and 2020. Pricesfrom $1,235 include accommodations, van transportation,guide, camel, breakfasts and some dinners. Internationalairfare is not included. Group size 6 to 16, exodustravels.com.

Eat for a cause: With support from Exodus and others, theAmal cafe in Marrakech gives disadvantaged women on-the-job restaurant training; more than 200 interns have graduatedand found hospitality-related work. The cafe also serves thebest raisin-topped vegetable couscous you may ever taste,amalnonprofit.org.

A red banner similar to Morocco’s national flag hangs over an alley of shoppingstalls in Fez’s ancient massive medina.

The main square of Essaouira, a relaxing town with a European feel on Morocco’sAtlantic Coast.

Shopping in Marrakech’s old medina is a feast for theeyes as well as the stomach. Olives are one of Moroc-co’s major crops.

Traditional baboucheslippers fill stalls in Mo-rocco’s souks, this one inMarrakech’s medina.

Tantalizing spices havebeen used for centuriesin Moroccan cooking andare found at marketseverywhere.