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Rock Climbing Rock Climbing Achievement Standard 2.4 Examine skill-learning principles and psychological skills in relation to physical activity Achievement Standard 2.8 Demonstrate knowledge of safety issues and apply safety management procedures in a physical activity Achievement Standard 2.5 Perform a physical activity to meet the Physical Education Performance Standards for Level 2

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Rock Climbing. Achievement Standard 2.4 Examine skill-learning principles and psychological skills in relation to physical activity Achievement Standard 2.8 Demonstrate knowledge of safety issues and apply safety management procedures in a physical activity Achievement Standard 2.5 - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Page 1: Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Rock Climbing Achievement Standard 2.4Examine skill-learning principles and psychological skills in relation to physical activity

Achievement Standard 2.8Demonstrate knowledge of safety issues and apply safety management procedures in a physical activity

Achievement Standard 2.5Perform a physical activity to meet the Physical Education Performance Standards for Level 2

Page 2: Rock Climbing

Term PlanTerm PlanWeek Date Monday Tuesday Wednesday Friday

1 19 – 23 April Classroom Classroom Intro to Rock Climbing Classroom

2 26 – 30 April Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

3 3 − 7 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

4 10 – 14 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

5 17 – 21 May

6 24 – 28 May Classroom Rock Climbing Classroom Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

7 31 May – 4 Jun Classroom Cross country Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

8 7 – 11 Jun Queens Birthday Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

9 14 – 8 Jun Revision for test Practice Test Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

10 21 – 25 Jun Rock Climbing, at long beach (WWA) Revision, mark practice test Rock Climbing Revision for test

11 28 June – 2 Jul Revision for test A.S. 2.4 TEST Term Tidy up Term Tidy up

Page 3: Rock Climbing

Safety in the Safety in the Outdoors Outdoors Rock ClimbingRock Climbing

Achievement Standard 2.8 2 Credits

Demonstrate knowledge of safety issues and apply safety management procedures in a physical activity.

Page 4: Rock Climbing

Achievement CriteriaAchievement Criteria

Achievement Achievement with MeritAchievement with

Excellence

Demonstrate knowledge of safety issues, and put into action safety management procedures for self and others, in a physical activity.

Demonstrate an in-depth knowledge of safety issues, and competently put into action safety management procedures for self and others, in a physical activity.

Demonstrate a comprehensive and in-depth knowledge of safety issues, and competently put into action safety management procedures for self and others, in a physical activity.

Page 5: Rock Climbing

AssessmentAssessmentTask 1 – Demonstrate Knowledge

of Safety issuesa) Involves completion of the risk management

matrix identifying:I. what could go wrong in your chosen outdoor

adventure activityII. why these things happen III. what you can do to manage them safely or to deal

with emergency situations.

b) Detail on how you will manage the risks (chose 5 aspects to discuss)

Page 6: Rock Climbing

Assessment ContinuedAssessment ContinuedTask 2 – Putting safety

management procedures into actiona) Involves you demonstrating safe behaviour in rock

climbing

b) You are required to complete three self-reflection sheets commenting on your safety during rock climbing

c) Summary of your safety throughout rock climbing

◦ Note: I will assess you on your safety during this time

Page 7: Rock Climbing

Brain StormBrain StormIn groups, brain storm any risks

associated with Rock Climbing at Long Beach

What could go wrong? (think about physical, and emotional factors)◦e.g. concussion, panic attack

Page 8: Rock Climbing

Task 1a – Risk Management Task 1a – Risk Management MatrixMatrixUsing the information gathered in

your group discussion, fill in Task 1a in your handout.

Page 9: Rock Climbing

Causal FactorsCausal Factors

The causal factors that the risks relate to can be split into 3 categories

◦ People◦ Environment◦ Equipment

Page 10: Rock Climbing

PeoplePeoplePeople involved in physical activities

can sometimes be the greatest risk to themselves or others

Risk factors involving people can be broken into 4 categories:◦ Supervision – Leader-student ratio, informing

significant others, gaining permission, etc◦ Medical – Medical conditions are known, allergies,

asthma, diabetes◦ Individual differences – previous experience, fitness

levels, personality, cultural differences◦ Behaviour – Following instructions and safety rules

that have been put in place, team/group morale

Page 11: Rock Climbing

EnvironmentEnvironmentEnvironment

◦ Weather – conditions, temperature◦ Landscape – unfamiliar terrain, natural hazards◦ Accessibility – for emergency services, cell phone

coverage

Page 12: Rock Climbing

EquipmentEquipmentEquipment

◦ Clothing – suitable for conditions, backpack with suitable items

◦ Food and drink◦ Safety equipment – first aid kit, cell phone,

medication, ◦ Navigational equipment

Page 13: Rock Climbing

In groups, split your A3 paper into 3 columns.

Column 1 heading = RisksColumn 2 heading = Casual

FactorsColumn 3 heading = Risk

Management

Page 14: Rock Climbing

Using the 3 risk you have been given, write down the causal factors in relation to:◦People◦Environment◦Equipment

◦Example: Hyperthermia

People – unsuitable supervision, reckless behaviour Environment – cold weather Equipment – unsuitable clothing worn or brought

Page 15: Rock Climbing

Task 1a ContinuedTask 1a ContinuedUsing the information you have

gathered in your groups, fill in the next part of Task 1a – Why can these things happen, what are the causes?

Page 16: Rock Climbing

In groups, in column 3, write down how you can stop these things from happening? How can you manage the risks?

Page 17: Rock Climbing

Tuesday 20Tuesday 20thth April AprilLearning Intentions

◦Term plan◦Revision from yesterday◦How can we reduce risks?◦What do we do in an emergency?◦What skills do individuals require?◦Complete Task 1a

Page 18: Rock Climbing

Term PlanTerm PlanWeek Date Monday Tuesday Wednesday Friday

1 19 – 23 April Classroom Classroom Intro to Rock Climbing Classroom

2 26 – 30 April Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

3 3 − 7 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

4 10 – 14 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

5 17 – 21 May

6 24 – 28 May Classroom Rock Climbing Classroom Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

7 31 May – 4 Jun Classroom Cross country Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

8 7 – 11 Jun Queens Birthday Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

9 14 – 8 Jun Revision for test Practice Test Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

10 21 – 25 Jun Rock Climbing, at long beach (WWA) Revision, mark practice test Rock Climbing Revision for test

11 28 June – 2 Jul Revision for test A.S. 2.4 TEST Term Tidy up Term Tidy up

Page 19: Rock Climbing

Revision from yesterdayRevision from yesterday

Risks – what could go wrong?Causal factors – what causes the

risks?◦Categorised under People,

Environment and Equipment

Page 20: Rock Climbing

Week 1 RevisionWeek 1 RevisionRisks associated with Rock

climbingCausal factors – people,

environment, equipmentPrevention

◦how can we reduce/prevent risks from occuring?

Putting on a harness correctlyTying a figure 8 Knot

Page 21: Rock Climbing

Learning Intentions- Mon 26Learning Intentions- Mon 26thth AprilAprilEmergency Action

◦What would you do?Skills

◦What skills are required by people who are Rock Climbing

Complete Task 1HomeworkA.S. results & Resubs

Page 22: Rock Climbing

EmergencyEmergency

In an emergency, what would you do?

Page 23: Rock Climbing

Answer these questions in Answer these questions in your groupyour group

Example:◦A member of your group is messing

around and climbs up the wall face without being harnessed or roped in. They climb up 5m and then jump off wall. When they land you hear a big crack, they broke their ankle. What would you do?

◦What actions need to be taken?◦What equipment is necessary to have?

Page 24: Rock Climbing

SkillsSkillsWhat skills are needed by people

to lead rock climbing?◦Think about personal skills, social

skills, activity skills, experience

Page 25: Rock Climbing

Task 1aTask 1a

Using the information gathered over the past 2 weeks, complete the tables in your achievement standard workbook

Page 26: Rock Climbing

HomeworkHomework

www.misscalnan.wikispaces.com

Page 27: Rock Climbing

10 Rules for Rock Climbing in 10 Rules for Rock Climbing in School gymSchool gym

Here are the 10 Rules developed by the class last week:

Respect Other Limits Support and Encourage others in the class Perform safety checks, including harness, ropes, etc Have a spotter or belayer when bouldering or climbing Pay attention at all times No unsafe behavior, including standing under climber and mucking

around No standing under climbers Communicate with others in class – correct calls to maintain

safety No climbing above white line without being harnessed in Correct equipment, including footwear, hair tied up and no jewellery

Page 28: Rock Climbing

Performance in Performance in Rock ClimbingRock Climbing

Achievement Standard 2.5

4 Credits

Perform a physical activity to meet the Physical Education Performance Standards for level 2

Page 29: Rock Climbing

Achievement CriteriaAchievement Criteria

Page 30: Rock Climbing

Motor Skill Motor Skill LearningLearning

Rock ClimbingRock ClimbingAchievement Standard

2.4 2 Credits

Examine skill-learning principles and psychological skills in relation to physical activity

Page 31: Rock Climbing

Monday 10Monday 10thth May MayChange in Timetable – Test datewww.misscalnan.wikispaces.com Motor Skill Learning

◦Achievement Standard Criteria◦Skills◦Goal Setting

Page 32: Rock Climbing

Term PlanTerm PlanWeek Date Monday Tuesday Wednesday Friday

1 19 – 23 April Classroom Classroom Intro to Rock Climbing Classroom

2 26 – 30 April Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

3 3 − 7 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

4 10 – 14 May Classroom Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

5 17 – 21 May Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

6 24 – 28 May Classroom Rock Climbing Classroom Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

7 31 May – 4 Jun Classroom Cross country Rock Climbing Rock Climbing

8 7 – 11 Jun Queens Birthday Classroom Rock Climbing Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

9 14 – 8 Jun Revision for test Practice Test Rock Climbing, bouldering final test

Rock Climbing at long beach, half day trip

10 21 – 25 Jun Rock Climbing, at long beach (WWA) OR test revision Revision, mark practice test Rock Climbing Revision for test

11 28 June – 2 Jul A.S. 2.4 TEST Rock Climbing Term Tidy up Term Tidy up

Page 33: Rock Climbing

Assessment Task One

a) Pre Test (baseline data - bouldering)b) Set Goals using the goal setting staircasec) Select two skill learning principles &

psychological skill you will apply during practice sessions

Task Two◦ Complete at least 10 X 15 minute practice

sessions◦ Must be recorded on data recording sheet

Task Three◦ 1 hour test

Page 34: Rock Climbing

Task One (a)Pre Test – Bouldering

◦The rock climbing wall will be set up from easy to difficult

◦You will climb around the wall as far as you can until you fall off

◦You will get 3 chances◦The pre-test will be over 1-2 periods

Page 35: Rock Climbing

Task One (b)Task One (b)From your pre-test you will set a

short term and long term goal using the goal setting staircase as a guide

Page 36: Rock Climbing

Achievement CriteriaAchievement Criteria

Achievement Achievement with MeritAchievement with

Excellence

Apply skill-learning principles and psychological skills to participation in physical activity.

Apply skill-learning principles and psychological skills to participation in physical activity.

Apply skill-learning principles and psychological skills to participation in physical activity.

Describe the effects of applying the skill-learning principles and psychological skills.

Explain the effects of applying the skill-learning principles and psychological skills.

Explain in detail the effects of applying the skill-learning principles and psychological skills.

Page 37: Rock Climbing

Goal Setting TaskGoal Setting TaskIn groups, answer these

questions:

What is a goal?

What do you need to consider when setting a goal?

Page 38: Rock Climbing

Goal SettingGoal SettingA goal is… What needs to

be considered when setting a goal?

Page 39: Rock Climbing

Goal SettingGoal SettingIs the process where a person sets

targets to achieve over a certain period of time

Gives something to focus onGives people motivation to improveAllows focus to be on individual

performance rather than outcomeCan help reduce anxiety or stress

during a performance

Page 40: Rock Climbing

SMARTER GoalsSMARTER Goals S_________

◦ Needs to be clearly defined M_________

◦ Must be able to be measured A__________

◦ Make sure you can reach them R__________

◦ Must be something that you are willing and able to work towards

T__________◦ Needs to have time-frame in which to accomplish

goal E__________

◦ Must personally motivate you R__________

◦ Must be written down – so progress can be seen

Page 41: Rock Climbing

Task 1(b)Task 1(b)Set a SMART long term goal

using the goal setting staircaseConsider the steps (short term

goals) that will help you achieve your long term goal

Pair, share – share your goals with a partner, who will give you feedback on whether it is suitable

Page 42: Rock Climbing

Motor Skill Motor Skill LearningLearning

Classification

Phases of Learning

Practice and Learning

Page 43: Rock Climbing

What is a skill?What is a skill?A motor skill is a learned, co-ordinated

activity which achieves a goal

Think about a person who is learning a golf stroke

What things do we see people doing when learning this new skill?

How can we tell a skilled performer from a novice?

Page 44: Rock Climbing

ClassificationClassification

Motor skills are classified into 4 main types

1.Fine or gross skills (the amount of movement required)

2.Discrete, continuous or serial skills (whether the skill has a defined beginning and end point)

3.Open or closed skills (the environment the skills are performed in)

4.Self-paced and externally paced skills(who determines how the skill movement is initiated)

Page 45: Rock Climbing

Fine or Gross skills Fine or Gross skills Classified according to the amount of movement

required

A fine skill involves performing small and precise movements using the small muscles of the body

Example

A gross skill involves performing large movements using the major muscles of the body

Example

Many skills are a combination of large and precise movements and therefore can be classified as both fine and gross skills

Page 46: Rock Climbing

Discrete or Continuous skillsDiscrete or Continuous skills

Classified according to whether the skill has a defined beginning and end point

A discrete skill has clearly defined start and end points

A continuous skill has no defined start or end pointThe skill is performed over and over again

without stoppingThe performer decides when to start and

finish

Page 47: Rock Climbing

Serial skillsSerial skillsClassified according to whether the skill has a defined beginning and end point

A serial skill is made up of a series of discrete skills performed one after the other in a sequence to perform an apparently continuous skill

ExamplesFloor routine in gymnastics__________________

Page 48: Rock Climbing

Closed or Open SkillsClosed or Open SkillsClassified according to the environment the skills are

performed in

Closed skill is performed in an environment which doesn’t change No external factors interfere with the skill

performance Internally paced

Open skill is performed in a constantly changing environment

Open skills cannot be performed exactly the same way each time, as the situation in which they are being performed is always changing

Externally paced

Closed Open

Environment

Page 49: Rock Climbing

Self and Externally paced Self and Externally paced skillsskillsClassified according to who determines how the skill movement is initiated and at what pace the skill proceeds

Self Paced: the performer determines when a skill is initiated and at what pace it will proceed◦ Tennis serve◦ Throwing a soccer ball in from sideline

Externally Paced: the skill is initiated by outside influence and the pace of the skill is determined by external factors◦ Playing a forehand shot in tennis◦ Passing in netball or basketball◦ Reacting to the starting gun

Page 50: Rock Climbing

Questions skill Questions skill classificationclassification

Movements

Environment

Beginningand end

Control

SKILL Fine or Gross

Open or Closed

Discrete, Serial or Continuous

External or Internal

Kayaking gross open discrete internal

Volleyball serve

Softball batting

Tramping

Skateboarding

100m Sprint

Fishing

Page 51: Rock Climbing

Phases of motor-skill Phases of motor-skill learninglearning When someone learns a new skill, they

usually go through clearly defined stages

1. Cognitive stage2. Associative stage3. Autonomous stage

Depend on the experience they have had

To make learning more effective a learner and coach must have an understanding of each phase

Page 52: Rock Climbing

1. Cognitive stage1. Cognitive stageThe learner develops an

understanding of how to perform the skill

The individual attempts to put the skill together with all its parts (subroutines) in correct order

What does the learner need in this stage?

Page 53: Rock Climbing

2. Associative stage2. Associative stageAlso known as practice stageIt usually takes place over a

longer period of timeLearner becomes familiar with

sequence of different partsTiming and accuracy of skill

improveThe learner needs:

◦Quality feedback◦To be motivated

Page 54: Rock Climbing

3. Autonomous stage3. Autonomous stageIn this stage the learner is

automatically performing the skill Skill requires less conscious

thought – think of other things i.e. strategy

The skill performed looks like it is effortless and controlled!

Performing can be challengedThe learner:

◦Less likely to be distracted◦Increased speed and efficiency

Page 55: Rock Climbing

Weds 19Weds 19thth May MayPractice and LearningFill out practice LogFactors affecting Learning

Page 56: Rock Climbing

Practice and learningPractice and learningThere are many different types of

instruction and practice methods that can be used in skill-learning:◦Massed and distributed◦Whole and part learning◦Drill and problem solving◦Mental and physical practice

◦Matching Activity!

Page 57: Rock Climbing

Massed PracticeMassed PracticeThis is ‘practising a skill without a

break’Activity is repeated continuously over

a period of time with no restPerformer may become bored and

frustratedCan cause fatigue or injury

◦Chest pass 5 mins◦Having 30 shots at goal◦Performing set play with team for 30 mins

Page 58: Rock Climbing

Distributed PracticeDistributed PracticePractice with breaks in betweenGood for continuous activities

that may become tiringAllows time for recovery and

‘thinking’ timeSuited for low motivated people

or boring tasks◦ Chest pass 30sec, rest 30sec◦ Practise a set play for 3-4min, break◦ Juggling for 2 mins, then receiving

feedback from partner

Page 59: Rock Climbing

Whole learningWhole learningWhole learning occurs when the

skill is taught together in ‘one piece’

Simple skills need to be taught as a whole as they cannot be broken down

Gives learner idea of ‘how skill feels’◦e.g. Dribbling in basketball◦e.g. Running/sprinting

Page 60: Rock Climbing

Part learningPart learningSkill is broken down into parts

(subroutines)Good for learning complex skillsUsed to help correct techniqueOnce subroutines are mastered,

each part can be put together◦ e.g. basketball layup – dribble, step

and shot

Page 61: Rock Climbing

Problem-solving activitiesProblem-solving activitiesLearner finds solutions to problems Allow learners to investigate,

experience or discover answers◦e.g. Learning to tie a figure 8 knot

Learner works out best option and makes a decision to complete activity

Allows experienced players to be involved in learning process◦e.g. Deciding what type of pass will be

most effective in different situations

Page 62: Rock Climbing

Drill-based activitiesDrill-based activitiesSimilar to massed practiceThis involves performing the skills

repetitivelyLearning through repetition of skillAllow instructor to give direct

instruction and advice while learner performs◦e.g. Practising a serve in volleyball to

different targets on the court◦e.g. Dribbling in and out of cones in

hockey

Page 63: Rock Climbing

Task 1(c)Task 1(c)Identify two skill learning

principles you will apply during Bouldering practice

Fill these in on your A.S. worksheet

Page 64: Rock Climbing

What do you think affects What do you think affects learning?learning?Think, pair, share

Brainstorm in pairs or (groups of 3) what factors you think affect learning

Page 65: Rock Climbing

Feedback Feedback This is information a person

receives about the performance of their skill

It compares current performance with an ideal outcome

The type of feedback will vary according to the stage of learning

Simple feedback for Cognitive stage More complex and detailed for

Autonomous

Page 66: Rock Climbing

Learning StylesLearning StylesLearning styles are the different

ways a person can learn a skill◦V – Visual – watching demonstrations◦A – Auditory - Hearing explanations◦R – read/write – reading instructions◦K – Kinesthetic – Physically

Performing skill

Page 67: Rock Climbing

Monday 24Monday 24thth May MayPlan of attack:

◦Complete practice logs◦Revision of Skill learning principles◦Sports psychology

Page 68: Rock Climbing

Practice logs ◦Tuesday 4th May (pre-tests)◦Friday 7th May◦Weds 12th May◦Monday 17th May◦Friday 21st May

For each of the dates above, select which skill learning principle you used in each session – they may have changed

For Psychological principle put down goal setting, as we haven’t covered the others yet.

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Skill Learning PrinciplesSkill Learning PrinciplesComplete the following

worksheet as a groupFill in the blanksUse your notes to complete

Page 70: Rock Climbing

Practice and Learning

Description Positive effectsNegative

effects

Massed Practice

Practising a skill without a break (no rest)

Gives person practicing plenty of time to practice

skill

Can cause fatigue or injury because of

repetitive nature of practice.

You might become bored

Distributed Practice

Whole Learning

Part Learning

Drill – Based

Problem Solving

Page 71: Rock Climbing

Sports Sports PsychologPsycholog

yy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52hsHIkDt-k&feature=related (Kobe Bryant)

Page 72: Rock Climbing

What is sports psych and why What is sports psych and why use it?use it?

In groups identify any key words to do with sports psychology and mental skills practice

Page 73: Rock Climbing

Sports PsychologySports PsychologyPsychological methods used to improve key

areas of mental skill performance

Psychological Skill

Purpose Psychological methods used

Arousal (activation) control

Controls levels of anxiety before completing a task

•Visualisation•Self-talk•Mental preparation

Concentration

Focuses attention on what is important in completing a task

•Visualisation•Self-talk

Confidence Allows a person to believe in their ability to complete a task

•Visualisation•Self-talk•Goal setting•Mental preparation

Motivation Gives a person the desire to complete a task

•Self-talk•Goal setting

Page 74: Rock Climbing

Arousal ControlArousal ControlArousal is the mental state of readiness

a person is in before and during activityIt involves levels of stress and anxietySome nerves are necessary as it

energises the person up to an optimal level of arousal

Too much stress can interfere with performance

Inverted ‘U’ theory ◦Suggests there is an optimal state of mental

function which will lead to good performance

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Inverted U TheoryInverted U Theory

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Concentration Concentration Allows a person to focus their attention on

what is necessary to successfully complete and activity

Wide focus◦ Concentrate on all information in

environmentSelective focus

◦ Concentrate on activity and othersNarrow focus

◦ Concentrate solely on activity itself without consideration for others

What kind of concentration focus would you have in the cognitive stage of motor learning?

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ConfidenceConfidenceIs a ‘person’s belief in themselves to

complete a task’Someone lacking confidence tends to

have negative thoughts and they doubt their ability

Can be increased:◦by practise◦Work at a level where they experience

success◦When people are encouraged to improve

themselves rather than trying to compare their performance with others

Page 78: Rock Climbing

Wednesday 26Wednesday 26thth May May

Fill in bouldering Log – Tues 25th May

Psychological Methods

Safety Management at Long Beach

Page 79: Rock Climbing

Psychological MethodsPsychological MethodsGoal SettingSelf –talkVisualisationMental Preparation

Note: Methods are used to improve psychological skills

Page 80: Rock Climbing

Self-talkSelf-talk This is what a person internally says to themselves A person’s thoughts influence their feelings, which in

turn influence their actions. If a person dwells on certain thoughts (positive or negative), this influences the way they think (positively or negatively) and then act.

Situation = You have the final shot at goal; if you make it, your team will win

Negative thoughts“You are useless, you can’t make the shot”

Positive thoughts“You.ve played well. Give it your best shot”

Result of negative feelingsAnxiety, nervousness, decreased confidence

Result of positive feelingsReassured, calmness, increased confidence

Negative actionYou listen to a negative comment from the opposition and perform shot hesitantly

Positive actionYou block out the noise from around you and perform shot confidently

Page 81: Rock Climbing

Changing negative Changing negative thoughtsthoughtsNeed to replace a negative thought

with a positive cue word or statementThis decreases anxiety

◦Technical cues – used to focus person on the technical aspects of skill “fingers spread”, “eyes on ball”

◦Focus words – used to control emotion and focus person on present situation “concentrate’, “next point”

◦Action statements – used to create energy “explode”, “personal best”

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Visualisation Visualisation Using the mind to create images of how

certain skills and situations will be performed.

It allows a person to practise their skills without having to physically perform them

Can be used to reduce nerves and anxietyAllows a positive scenario to be rehearsedImproves confidenceProvides opportunities to think about how to

deal with difficult situations before they occurFocus on parts that need improvement

Page 83: Rock Climbing

Imagery (visualisation) Imagery (visualisation) TaskTask

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Mental Preparation Mental Preparation Structured routine of mental plans

that can be used before and during a activity

Players develop set patterns of behaviour which help them to focus

3 phases:1. Pre-match routines2. Game plan3. Stress management

Page 85: Rock Climbing

Task 1 (c) Task 1 (c) Identity two skill learning

principles and two psychological skills that you will apply while rock climbing

Page 86: Rock Climbing

Safety Management at Long Safety Management at Long beachbeachLogComplete work to date

Page 87: Rock Climbing

Revision WorksheetRevision Worksheet

Complete this worksheet on your own

Page 88: Rock Climbing

Review GoalsReview GoalsCheck where you are up to now

Can your goals be adjusted to suit your performance?

Page 89: Rock Climbing

Complete Safety Complete Safety ManagementManagement

Complete or read through your Safety management achievement Standard

Page 90: Rock Climbing

Long BeachLong Beach

We will be going to Long Beach on Friday this week

Page 91: Rock Climbing

Plan for WeekPlan for Week

Tuesday – Preparations for Cross Country

Weds – ClimbingFriday – Long Beach (leaving at

12.30pm)

Page 92: Rock Climbing

Extra Climbing?Extra Climbing?

Keep an eye out in notices, there are lunch times when you can practice climbing

Page 93: Rock Climbing

QUIZQUIZOnce in groups:

◦Choose a team name◦Choose a runner, to run answers up to me

10 questions each worth 1 point or for multiple answers

more than 1 point Question 10 – bonus question worth up to 5

points

Winning team will be awarded a prize

Page 94: Rock Climbing

Quiz Rules…Quiz Rules…Everyone must contribute to answersYou can have as many attempts at

an answering the question as you like, if your first answer is wrong (within 2 mins)

Each answer must be written on a separate piece of paper with team name on it

First team back with correct answer gets 1 bonus point

Page 95: Rock Climbing

Question 1Question 1

What are the 3 stages of learning?

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Question 2Question 2

List all the principles of practice and learning you know?

(1/2 point per correct answer, possible 4 points)

Page 97: Rock Climbing

Question 3Question 3

Define massed practice?

Page 98: Rock Climbing

Question 4Question 4

What are the negative aspects of massed practice?

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Question 5Question 5

What are the positive aspects of distributed practice?

Page 100: Rock Climbing
Page 101: Rock Climbing

Question 6Question 6

Define whole learning...

Page 102: Rock Climbing

Question 7Question 7

When you break down a skill into different sub routines and practice them separately, this would be an example of what type of practice?

Page 103: Rock Climbing

Question 8Question 8

When setting a goal you want to set a SMARTER goal. What does S.M.A.R.T.E.R stand for? ◦(1/2 point per correct answer,

possible 3.5 points)

Page 104: Rock Climbing

Question 9Question 9

List the different psychological methods we learnt about yesterday? (1/2 point per correct answer, possible 2 points)

Page 105: Rock Climbing

BreakBreak

Page 106: Rock Climbing

Question 10Question 10

What kind of Concentration or focus would a person have when they are in the Cognitive stage of learning?

Bonus question worth up to 5 points

Page 107: Rock Climbing

AnswersAnswers1. Cognitive, Associative,

autonomous2. Massed practice, distributed

practice,Whole and part learning, Drill and problem solving, Mental and physical practice

3. When you practice a skill repetitively with no rest

4. Can lead to injury (if high intensity skill), can become bored and frustrated with repeating with no break

Page 108: Rock Climbing

Answers Continued…Answers Continued…5. You get rest to think about/reflect

on skill. Don’t get bored. Allows for feedback to be given before trying skill again

6. When you practice a skill as a whole. Ideal practice for skills that can not be broken down

7. Part - learning8. Specific, measureable, attainable

(achievable), realistic, time, exciting, recorded

Page 109: Rock Climbing

……9. Mental preparation,

visualisation, self-talk, goal setting

10. Narrow Focus – will be focusing on few things, generally own performance/skills

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Learning IntentionsLearning IntentionsJuggling practice for 10 minsReview goalsReview Psychological skills

Fill out any incomplete tasks

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What we have covered so What we have covered so far…far…Motor SkillPractice and Learning

Classification of

Phases of Motor Skill learning C_________, A_________, A__________

Practice and Learning Massed and distributed Whole and Part learning Drill-based and Problem solving Physical and Mental Practice

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……Factors affecting learning

Feedback, learning styles (V.A.R.K), mental skills, regular practice, etc.

Sport Psychology Psychological Skills – What everybody

has E.g. Concentration, confidence, arousal/activation

control

Psychological Methods – How we improve the psychological skills

E.g. Goal setting, self-talk, mental preparation, visualisation/imagery

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Sport PsychologySport PsychologyPsychological Methods

◦Goal Setting◦Self –talk◦Visualisation (Imagery)◦Mental Preparation

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Group ActivityGroup ActivityFill in the blanks

◦Description of different practice and learning

◦Positive and negatives

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Goal SettingGoal SettingPositivesGives something to focus onGives people motivation to improveAllows focus to be on individual

performance rather than outcomeCan help reduce anxiety or stress during a

performanceNegativesNot setting SMART goals

e.g. Not specific, setting them too high/too low, not measuring them

Specific to task – skill learning principles being applied

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Self-talkSelf-talk This is what a person internally says to themselves.

Tend to be short key words or phrases

Positive Thoughts can be positive Give you direction/something to focus on (specific parts

of skill) Negative Thoughts may be negative and hinder performance

◦ E.g. “I am useless”, “I can’t do this”

Can cause increased anxiety or stress Decrease concentration levels (focusing on negative

thoughts rather than performance)

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Visualisation/ImageryVisualisation/Imagery Using the mind to create images of how certain

skills and situations will be performed. Positives: Allows you to practise the skills without having to

physically perform them Can reduce nerves and anxiety Allows a positive scenario to be rehearsed Improves confidence Provides opportunities to think about how to deal

with difficult situations before they occur Focus on parts that need improvement Negatives: Might be difficult for you to imagine yourself

performing skill You may rehearse skill poorly in your mind

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Mental Preparation Mental Preparation Structured routine of mental plans

that can be used before and during a activity

Positives:Gives you set things to focus on

before, and during skill performanceCan reduce stressNegatives:Can over think skill or performanceCould panic if not prepared