s60 awd hub bearing + balljoint replacement

7/31/2019 S60 AWD Hub Bearing + Balljoint Replacement

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/s60-awd-hub-bearing-balljoint-replacement 1/22

DISCLAIMER: For entertainment purposes only! Car maintenance should only be

performed by qualified Volvo mechanics! No liability accepted for any damage to the car

or yourself is accepted should you try to use this information for anything more than

interesting reading material. I am not a mechanic, so use your own judgement!

Things you might need:

PARTS

Hub Kit - Includes hub, driveshaft bolt, 4 mounting bolts - Volvo p/n 274298

Ball joint kit - Includes ball joint, 2 mounting bolts, driveshaft bolt - Volvo p/n 274548

Driveshaft screw - Volvo p/n 3076055 (don't buy, you get them in the kits!)

Anti-roll link nut, top - Volvo p/n 985909Caliper/limiter bolts - 985454 (2 needed)

TOOLS Sockets

• 10 mm socket

• 14 mm socket

• 15 mm socket

• 18 mm socket

• 19 mm socket

• 21 mm socket (13/16" seems close enough)

• T40 Torx

• T30 Torx

• 18 mm crowfoot wrench/adapter

Wrenches

• 8 mm wrench

• 18 mm wrench (ratcheting would be ideal)

• 21 mm wrench

Misc stuff

• M10 1.5mm pitch x 70mm bolts, the type that are partially smooth (see step 25)

• 2" diameter steel pipe nipple (see step 25)

Misc tools



Step 4

Loosen the roadwheel bolts as well (19 mm). I also fold in the mirrors, as I tend to knock them when

standing up! Your choice ;-)

Step 5

Jack up the car, put on jack stands.

Step 6

Take off the road wheels

Step 7

If you haven't already loosened the driveshaft screw in step 3, have someone press the brakes and

carefully loosen it now. Or you can insert a screwdriver into the brake disc to counterhold it while

loosening.

Step 8

Loosen the bolt on the anti-roll bar link, the top bolt on the shock. Counterhold with a T40, then use a

18mm wrench to loosen it.

Step 9

Carefully remove the ABS sensor by undoing the bolt (10mm). Don't pull up on the sensor wire to get



the sensor out! Also undo the wire holder, then carefully put the sensor somewhere it won't get hurt!

Step 10

Turn the wheel to expose the back of the caliper to make removing the bolts holding the caliper / limiter

in. Loosen the bolts, but before removing them have some rope or wire ready. You will have to hang the

caliper from the spring, and it's pretty heavy! Once you are set, remove the bolts and hang the caliper to

protect the rubber brake line.



You should use new bolts when putting the caliper back.



Step 11

If you turned the wheel to the side, return it to center.

You must measure the distance at the top bolt of the wheel spindle to the spring strut. When

reassembling you'll have to set this distance the same, as otherwise your wheel camber will be wrong!

Be sure to clean both measuring surfaces well before taking the measurement. I also took it three times

to make sure, re-zeroing the instrument inbetween measurements. The other side of my caliper was

above the bracket attacked to the sprint strut (can't see in photo). Mine was 87.0 mm for reference.



Step 12

If it's not obvious, mark the location of the disc relative to the hub. All that matters is which of the four

holes you put the retaining bolt through - it should be obvious from markings on the disc!

Step 13

Remove disc retaining bolt (10 mm).



Step 14

Remove the disc. If the disc is old it may be seized on, requiring the application of quite a bit of force! If

you were planning on replacing your disc now would be a great time to do so...

Step 15

Remove the driveshaft screw, DO NOT reuse. Your hub kit and each ball-join kit will come with a new

driveshaft screw, you have lots of spares. I would immediately place the old one away somewhere you

won't accidentally re-use it.

Step 16

Tap the driveshaft in 10-15mm with something soft (brass hammer, pin, etc).



Step 17

Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts attaching the spindle to the spring struct. The bolt head was

18mm, the nut was 21 mm. Note that 13/16" seemed to fit almost perfectly if you don't have a 21mm.

Step 18

Use two wrenches to undo tie rod end. Counterhold with an 8mm, then undo the nut with a 18mm

wrench (ratcheting would again make this go much faster). You should use a new nut on re-assembly.



Step 19

Pull bolts for spindle/suspension. You may have to fiddle around with the spindle or use a hammer to

lightly tap the bolts out. You should use new bolts/nuts on reassembly probably. Before you remove

them completely see next step for warnings!



Step 21

You will now undo the nut on the lower ball joint. Before doing that, I'd tie off the top of the spindle so

that it doesn't flop out and get damaged!

Use a counterhold, then undo the nut. My counterhold was a T30 Torx, the nut was 21 mm on the old

ball joint. The new ball joint was different sizes, so be sure to check yours! Also you may have to clean

the end out to see the counterhold, there was a lot of dirt in there.



Take the spindle, it should just lift off now! If you haven't already, take out the rubber driveshaft seal

and inspect it. Save it, since the new hub doesn't come with one.

Step 22 - HUB

You need to put it in a 'soft-jawed' vice. Lacking that, two pieces of wood worked well enough for me.



Clean the bolt threads sticking out that hold the hub on. It will make removal much easier!

Remove the bolts holding the hub on (18 mm), then tap the hub out. Clean the mounting surface for the

new hub, it should easily fit flush!



Step 23 - HUB

Insert the new hub, and insert NEW bolts (they came with the hub kit). Tighten criss-cross first to 20 Nm

(15lb-ft) then to 65 Nm (48 lb-ft).

Finally angle-tighten them a further 60 degrees, again criss-cross fashion. You can make a quick angle

gauge by printing off and cutting out a protractor (or stealing one from your kids). Aline 0 degrees with

horizontal for instance, tape it on the back of your ratchet, and tighten until 60 degrees is now

horizontal. You get the idea.



Step 24 - BALL JOINT

Use 14mm socket to remove bolts on ball joint.

Then remove ball joint - this is much much harder than it sounds! At least without the proper equipment

(slide hammer). I used a combination of a punch, a heavy bar, and some chain to slowly remove this.




You will need to make some guide bolts. Purchase some M10 1.5mm pitch bolts, ones with some area

without thread. Cut them down so the threaded area is only about 10mm. File the ends a bit to give

them a nice shape so they won't damage your threads! This become the guide bolts, to ensure the ball

joint goes on nice and centred.

Insert the ball joint in, and also your guide bolts:



Find a piece of pipe that fits over - I got a 2" x 2-1/2" steel pipe nipple part number UBLN-2025 that fit

perfectly over the protective cap. Hammer in the ball joint carefully, you can finish with a brass punch if

you want too. In retrospect the pipe should be longer, as the end of the joint stuck out!


Remove the guide bolts, and insert the new screws. Using 14mm socket tighten to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft.

Step 27

Reinstall the ball joint in the control arm, ensuring the mating surfaces are clean! Using a crow-foot,



tighten the new nut (came with ball joint) to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft while counterholding. Note that the

crowfoot affects the torque setting - see http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp. However the

crowfoot is so short relative to the torque wrench, that realistically you can ignore it. I had to use a 18

mm crow-foot with a 6mm hex counterhold. Do not forget the counterhold!!

Step 28

Put the driveshaft seal back, then slip the driveshaft back into the hub. Insert the screw by hand,then lubricate it. I found it useful to put the lower of the two bolts in that connect the spindle to

the suspension. To do this you will have to push the control arm down hard.

http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp






Step 29

Insert both bolts & nuts, being sure they are inserted the correct way (from the front) on the

spindle/strut interface. You may have to play around with pushing the control arm / spindle down and

taping the bolts in to get them through. Tighten them enough that the spindle is not loose against the

strut. Then make sure you get the measurement you took in step 11.



Step 30

Now tighten those bolts to 105 Nm / 77 lb-ft. Then further angle-tighten them by 90 degrees. You

should be able to 'eye-ball' the 90-degree to good accuracy. Hold ratchet straight up, then go untilhorizontal etc.

Step 31

Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new tie-rod nut to 70 Nm / 52 lb-ft.

Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new anti-roll link nut to 50 Nm / 37 lb-ft.

Step 32

Wipe the ABS sensor down if it is dirty (don't use solvents!), then insert it and tighten it's mounting bolt

to 10 Nm.

Step 33

Ensure the mating surfaces are clean, then put the disc back on and tighten the retaining screw to 8 Nm.

If you are putting a new disc on: the disc may have one side with a little bit machined out. Put this

opposite the disc retaining screw to maintain proper balance.

Step 34

Put the caliper back on the brake disc, then put the limiters back and insert new bolts. Tighten to 100

Nm / 75 lb-ft.

Step 35

Tighten the driveshaft screw a little more. Final tightening should be done when the car on the ground

to avoid risking knocking it off the jack stands! I also put a little note on my windshield to remind me the

driveshaft screw wasn't tight, as I was doing some other work!



Step 36Put wheel back on, tighten wheel bolts.

Step 37

Lower car to ground

Step 38

Tighten driveshaft screw to 35 Nm / 36 lb-ft, then tighten a further 90 degrees.

Step 39

Tighten wheel bolts to 140 Nm / 103 lb-ft.

s60 awd hub bearing + balljoint replacement

Documents