SHARA JOHNSON

FDD GROUP A Technical File

Sophie Hallette lace

Pic ‘n’ Mix

SLASH AND SPREAD WITH COLLAR EXERCISE

SKIRT FLARE

Divide skirt

into 12

equal parts

2cm apart

and cut

into them

to the top

and spread

the bottom

4cm apart

between

each strip

SLASH AND SPREAD

TRACE OFF

Trace off new flared piece and separate the skirt in half with a line for the top skirt and under skirt.

FOLD OUT DART

Put

pattern on

the stand

to see if as

much flare

as desired

is there.

Apply the

same

routine for

adding

flare to

the back.

SKIRT FACING Trace off 3cm facing for top skirt and under skirt.

However I was informed by a technician that facing were not necessary for a circle skirt and that it was just best to hem it.

FRONT AND BACK, TOP AND UNDER SKIRT

BODICE Putting in new dart positions

SLASH AND SPREAD FOR NEW DART

Front Back

SLEEVE For raglan sleeve (almost), move centre

notch on sleeve head 1cm towards the front

of sleeve. Then on the front bodice take off

1cm and add it onto the back

SLEEVE SHAPE

Draw on sleeve

shape onto the

back, trace the

shape off and then

close the back

shoulder dart .

Draw sleeve shape

onto the front,

making sure both

the front and back

line up and then

trace of pieces.

SLASH AND SPREAD

Cut out traced of pieces and lay them on top of new sleeve shape and slash and spread ends of them so they fit smoothly on the sleeve armhole line.

LAYING NE PIECES ON SLEEVE

When both new pieces are laid n top of the sleeve they should create a triangular shape / dart at the top

SLEEVE CUFF AND OPENING

To get the

sleeve

opening,

fold sleeve

in half, and

then fold the

back of

sleeve to the

half way

point, and

that is where

the sleeve

opening

should be,

the sleeve

opening is

usually

about 8cm

but for this

design it is

15cm with a

0.75cm strip

for binding

either side

SLEEVE CUFF To do

sleeve cuff draw a horizontal line on both sides of original sleeve line (length 4,5cm) on each side to give a 9cm cuff in length.

CUFF PATTERN Trace off

cuff and

measure in

2,5cm to

create

placket for

button, add

two tucks to

accommodat

e for dart

SLEEVE , BACK AND FRONT BODICE, AND

CUFF

Pattern

ready for

sampling

SLEEVE OPENING BINDING

Draw a line about 35cm on either side add 0.75cm and then 0.5cm seam allowance. Put pattern piece on the bias to give a slight stretch and press in 0.5cm

BIAS BINDING OPENING STITCHING

Stitch binding 0.5cm and then halfway stitch into the very corner of the binding, but leave

0.5cm from the corner of the sleeve, the lift foot with needle in fabric, turn fabric and continue

stiching. Fold fabric and stitch binding on right side to neaten, fold and stitch the corner in a

triangular shape.

STICTING LACE Using zigzag

stitch carefully

stitch on lace

SAMPLE OF SLEEVE AND BODICE

After doing this sample, I’m happy with the two front darts on the front bodice and how it

sits. However I do not like the lace attachment above the cuff, I feel that it looks very granny-

ish and should be placed in a different way. Also the back does not fit and is gaping, after

talking to my tutor I later realised it was because the dart was incorrect and needs correcting.

Front

side

Back

SLEEVE ALERATION

After looking at my first sample I decide I

didn’t like the dart on the sample (too bulky)

so I turned the dart into a seam and thought

that I could insert the lace with the

scalloped edge into it which would much

more interesting than lace around the cuff.

INSERTING LACE AND PIPING

To insert lace and

piping on first

then lace , then

other side of

sleeve then with

an invisible zip

stitch and cut

around scalloped

edge. I think the

scalloped edge

looks very

effective against

the sleeve.

However one edge

of the sleeve is

longer than the

other, so I need to

recheck my

pattern to see if its

incorrect or if it

just the way I held

the fabric.

However although

I like this, I will

not be using this

fabric for my final

design, it frays

waaaay to much

and does n’t give a

nice neat finish.

2ND SAMPLE OF SLEEVE AND LACE INSERT

I’m very happy with the outcome of the sample, I

corrected the back dart so it fit much better, I very

much prefer the lace being placed in this way as a

pose to the other method, love the scalloped edge

and piping and I think I will stick with this for my

final design, but change the sleeve fabric. ,

COLLAR

For the collar I used the method

learned in class by putting the

collar on in paper, drawing on the

design and then slashing and

spreading it. When I got the shape

I wanted I then laid it out flat on

to paper and drew how far I

wanted it to go into the bodice

and drew on the other bodice

seam lines.

1ST SAMPLE

This sample gives the

general idea of the collar,

however it is to thin and the

gap is to big and will not

stand up the way I would

like, the fabric I would use

would have to have a slight

stiffness to it.

Also the way I’ve bagged it

out is wrong, I tried to

attach the collar first and

then fold the edges of the

outside and middle in and

then stitch…it didn’t work.

Next time I will bag the

collar out before I attach it

COLLAR INTERROGATION

I have made an alteration on

the front of the collar by

extending the end 1,5cm so

that it can be sewn and folded

properly without ending at a

point

front alteration Back

2ND COLLAR PATTERN AND SAMPLE This collar pattern

worked out much better on the sample, because I had made it 1cm wider reducing the size of the gap by 1cm. And altered the front, and should work much better than the old one. New collar Old collar

COLLAR CONSTRUCTION 2ND SAMPLE

I started by stitching the shape in the middle first and clipping it all the way around to release tension on the fabric and then bagged it out and pressed it. I then stitched bagged out the edge from inside and pulled it through.

I am very happy with the shape of the collar now, it looks smooth, it looks wide enough and is bagged out enough, how ever whether its stands up depends on the interfacing and fabric.

COLLAR SAMPLE WITH VERY THICK

INTERFACING

I thought that this interfacing would work as it was very stiff, but it made the collar extremely difficult to sew and I wasn’t able to bag it out properly and caused a lot of bunching, thinner interfacing would be much more appropriate.

3RD COLLAR SAMPLE

This collar sample is much

better, because the

interfacing is just right,

however this fabric (satin

acetate) has a tendency to

singe or melt slightly

under to much heat and

also frays very easily, and

because I need to stretch

and pull this fabric quite a

lot to bag it out properly I

am not going to use it for

the collar on the final

design.

TOILE CONSTRUCTION

After drawing on the seam lines for the

front at and back bodice panels, I traced

them off and began cutting out the skirt

and the bodice pieces.

FRONT BODICE

1. Cut out and

mount lace on

fabric

Polka dot panel

Blue strip ,

darts.

BACK AND FRONT BODICE Over all I’m happy

with the fit and seam lines in the bodice.

Front Back

ADDING SKIRT Zip insertion

Tucks and gather

TOILE OUTCOME

Overall I am happy with outcome of this toile, however there are adjustments and improvements that need to made to the final design.

IMPROVEMENTS TO BE MADE ON DESIGN The strip is

bunching and next time needs to be cut as a straight strip instead of a curved one and then clipped inside for it to lie flat.

The collar needs bagging out properly with accuracy to reduce bunching

Make sure skirt and bodice side seams match.

MORE IMPROVEMENTS.

The centre back seams

when the zip is put in

need to match up or

the whole thing will

look off. The zip also

needs to be longer, it is

on 17’’ which isnt long

enough to get over the

shoulders or hips

properly so next time I

will be using a 22’’ zip

make sure that the

binding is on the

outside and not on the

inside (silly mistake).

FINAL DESIGN CONSTRUCTION

Due to some of the fabrics I wanted to use felt quite flimsy, I decided to mount them against a white cotton to give the bodice a little more thickness

BODICE

Sew darts, sew blue strip straight piece to polka dot

panel, snip corner to relieve fabric tension and press

TOP SKIRT AND UNDER SKIRT

Cut out

top and

underskir

t front

and back ,

stitch side

seams and

press

ADDING GATHER To do gather I

put the

machine on the

largest stitch

and did 2

running

stitches

stopping

halfway into

the skirt so

that when I

gathered I

would do it

from both sides

of the skirts to

get and equal

amount.

GATHER AND STITCHING SKIRT TO BODICE

Gather skirt to 64cm and stitch to bodice, I didn’t put any tucks in the skirts , a

technician told me I didn’t need to put them in if the skirt was being gathered

INSERTING ZIP AND BLUE STRIP

For blue strip

cut straight

piece 4cm wide

fold in half

press, fold in

half again and

press

Back

INSERTING ZIP

Stitch 1cm in and fold out for a smooth corner, using invisible

zip foot insert zip. Using left/ right food finish seam, but clip

the blue top skirt so that you can sew the seam separately and

isn't trapped in the seam with the under skirt.

LINING AND FACING

I chose these

colours for the

lining because I

wanted the

inside to

resemble

liqourice

GATHERING NET (8 METRES)

ATTACHING LINING TO NET

I’m pleased with the outcome of the lining

and happy with colour choice

COLLAR

I wanted to trap lace in the gap which I think wouldve looked interesting but I quickly disregarded that idea because I realised it would’ve been near impossible to bag it out.

Also instead of doing a belt as was on the original design, I have decided not to do one, I feel that there is already enough going on with the dress, and so I have taken the black and pink stripes from the waist and transferred them to the neck which I think will look better

USING RIGHT FOOT TO STICH END OF ZIP AND

BACK

INSERTING LACE INTO SLEEVE

I measured 5cm from the scalloped edge for the sleeves. I decided to use 2

different fabrics for the arms due to me making a mistake of cutting the pair

wrong and not having enough fabric – so I’ve improvised – I love it!

FINAL OUTCOME

ITS BARBIE!!!!!

I Call it Sherbet v

Liquorice

‘Pic n Mix’!

front Back

EVALUATION

Overall I am very pleased with the out come of this dress, it was a lot of work and I realise now that I should’ve started earlier but I am still pleased.

There are a few things I need to still improve e.g I did forget to over lock one seam on the arm and the bias binding on one of the sleeves is a little weird due to me rushing. I also think that the cuffs and zip at the back could’ve been resolved a little more as it is not sitting as perfectly as I would like. I’m happy with the fabric choices and I think it embodies my theme, my muse Niki minaj as well as my lace very well, I think I’ve been true to myself and done lace in an unexpected way, and pushed myself in terms of silhouette and producing a design which has lot of detail and mixed the colours well, I definitely think that this was because I bought my fabric first and then designed around it instead of doing it the other way round and it helped a lot. Long live my Sherbet dress!

DYEING THE LACE FLAMINGO PINK!

DYEING LACE AND PIPING

I put the dye in with 6 litres of water but I’m

realising that I should’ve left the dye more

concentrated to get it more pink. However I

am happy with the outcome of the lace. I had

to leave both the lace and piping in overnight

to get the oink I wanted. The green elastic

would not dye, however I like the contrast.

Before

After

LACE AND PIPING SAMPLES