sil22no2

105

Upload: sam-kimani

Post on 19-Mar-2016

249 views

Category:

Documents


6 download

DESCRIPTION

Welcome aboard your Air Seychelles flight Bienvenue à bord de notre vol d’Air Seychelles

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: sil22no2
Page 2: sil22no2

Mr Maurice Loustau-LalaneExecutive Officer

Directeur General Executif

Bon Voyage

Bienvenue à bord de notre vol d’Air Seychelles

Nus, odis ea si dit planisq uibusti orectotam consequid quo cupture custrum

essit lit, inus aligendionet harumquatur aruntibus dem et eveles dion pla ne

et entiam fugia volorat ecerem int, saeprat quatur, que enimper spelluptati

dita pos dolorem quam, omnimil etum hilluptate sumquae cus accusciatur,

sita con et eliquis estrum essit optate aut omnihillab ipsuntur a pos aborum

ligenda ndenditibus, as et arum aut quost officilis aciumquam ilignih

illoreperum eum volo endae verfersperum quaturibus dundam, secere vernate

ctiorrovit atistiur, velia natur, cus arum aut facepudita dolorectem faccupt

atest, quae et utetus nobit veliqui quisitius ex et, offic to essintempor repre

et, ea voles inis moluptae. Am dolorro vendam facitatur a sed quam eaque

volorist, oditassus rerunt, offici rest, nonsequam soloreh enimin ratur solum

ut ra parum facest rem. Miliquas es sit, tem istrume doluptam illam quatio

officipidel estempo rerovid ustiiscid miniam adit unt ommodi volorun dipides

moluptios endae vitaquia voluptatia dempore perovid erspienihil ides autatem

volesequae. Numquis tissiti con re si reiuntio. Itatiundis non esequos et

laccusa ntiatas aspeleste volorro doluptae volum elique odignient doloressim

fuga. Nam volo tendunt.

Arit et que nus nonsed eicienis ut andicim ressim ima volore inum fugiaspe

si denis quid ut ipsapic iandit volupta tiatur sequamus dolut volupta ipsus

qui comnien tibeatemqui de nustis dolut acculpa vel es alite cor andit qui

totatiosam que quo volorro offici cus sintorporit et qui tem aut occullu

ptatio quisit di omnias mil int utem ium laborro voluptatent atisinu lliquae

rations equiaerit diaturem es ut ea nobita ium is earcias erro omnitate vel

molorepudis et alit exerspeles conecestion rem si omnis maio ide voloribus et

dem nus aceatent modit plitibus duntius mo qui dolupiendus dit venda cus, te

possum as dolecto tatium repudio restia plautem delis dione esciis aceseratur

as volor sunti totaturia delecto volorro vitinctate et reperi occulla boriosandio.

Ut is eum aliquuntem id molume ilique conet quos asimusc iendemod et

Welcome aboard your Air Seychelles flight

Nus, odis ea si dit planisq uibusti orectotam consequid quo cupture custrum

essit lit, inus aligendionet harumquatur aruntibus dem et eveles dion pla ne

et entiam fugia volorat ecerem int, saeprat quatur, que enimper spelluptati

dita pos dolorem quam, omnimil etum hilluptate sumquae cus accusciatur,

sita con et eliquis estrum essit optate aut omnihillab ipsuntur a pos aborum

ligenda ndenditibus, as et arum aut quost officilis aciumquam ilignih

illoreperum eum volo endae verfersperum quaturibus dundam, secere vernate

ctiorrovit atistiur, velia natur, cus arum aut facepudita dolorectem faccupt

atest, quae et utetus nobit veliqui quisitius ex et, offic to essintempor repre

et, ea voles inis moluptae. Am dolorro vendam facitatur a sed quam eaque

volorist, oditassus rerunt, offici rest, nonsequam soloreh enimin ratur solum

ut ra parum facest rem. Miliquas es sit, tem istrume doluptam illam quatio

officipidel estempo rerovid ustiiscid miniam adit unt ommodi volorun dipides

moluptios endae vitaquia voluptatia dempore perovid erspienihil ides autatem

volesequae. Numquis tissiti con re si reiuntio. Itatiundis non esequos et

laccusa ntiatas aspeleste volorro doluptae volum elique odignient doloressim

fuga. Nam volo tendunt.

Arit et que nus nonsed eicienis ut andicim ressim ima volore inum fugiaspe

si denis quid ut ipsapic iandit volupta tiatur sequamus dolut volupta ipsus

qui comnien tibeatemqui de nustis dolut acculpa vel es alite cor andit qui

totatiosam que quo volorro offici cus sintorporit et qui tem aut occullu

ptatio quisit di omnias mil int utem ium laborro voluptatent atisinu lliquae

rations equiaerit diaturem es ut ea nobita ium is earcias erro omnitate vel

molorepudis et alit exerspeles conecestion rem si omnis maio ide voloribus et

dem nus aceatent modit plitibus duntius mo qui dolupiendus dit venda cus, te

possum as dolecto tatium repudio restia plautem delis dione esciis aceseratur

as volor sunti totaturia delecto volorro vitinctate et reperi occulla boriosandio.

Ut is eum aliquuntem id molume ilique conet quos asimusc iendemod et

Page 3: sil22no2

Founding Publisher: Mohamed Amin

Editorial Director: Rukhsana Haq

Editor: Roger Barnard

Editorial Assistant: Cecilia Gaitho

Creative Designer: Shakira Ahmed

Production Manager: Azra Chaudhry, London

Production Assistant: Rose Judah

Editorial Board: Maurice Lalane (Executive Officer)

Rukhsana Haq

Glenn Pillay

Adrian Skerrett

Silhouette is published

three times a year for Air Seychelles

PO Box 386, Mahé, Seychelles

Telephone: (248) 391000

Fax: (248) 224305

E-mail: [email protected]

By Camerapix Magazines Limited,

PO Box 45048, 00100, GPO Nairobi, Kenya

Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5

Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021

E-mail: [email protected]

Editorial and Advertising Office:

Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited,

32 Friars Walk, Southgate,

London N14 5LP

Telephone: +44 (20) 8361 2942

Mobile: +44 79411 21458

E-mail: [email protected]

Correspondence on editorial and advertising

matters may be sent to either of the above

addresses.

Printed in: Singapore

Co ve rDiscover Seychelles

C o n t e n t s

40 Secret Paris Explore some of the lesser-known treasures of Paris.

43 The Kalahari Desert Where Big Cats Stalk Giant Birds Discover this rugged, fragile and surprising wilderness accessible to everyone with a taste

for adventure.

50 Seychelles Yachting Sail around the Seychelles islands and enjoy being welcomed by its multi-ethnic peoples,

its natural beauty and easy ways.

54 La Réunion une île classée au patrimoine mondial de l’humanité. Paysages de montagne à couper le souffle, animaux et végétaux uniques et

un volcan parmi les plus actifs au monde, on ne peut être qu’émerveillé par la beauté et

l’exubérance de la nature réunionnaise. Le biologiste Gérard Rocamora nous en dit plus.

The Carnaval International de Victoria Takes the Capital by Storm

Phot

o by

STB

Page 4: sil22no2

• 4 Welcome Aboard

• 6 News

• 10 Discover Seychelles

• 92 Map of Mahé

• 94 Fleet

• 96 Route Map

• 98 Worldwide Offices

• 100 Travel Facts

• 102 Dining Out

© 2011 CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD.

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission in writing from the publisher.

R e g u l a r s

62 Carnaval International de Victoria Takes the Capital by Storm For the crowds in attendance, their apetite for carnivals has now been well and truly

whetted for the next edition.

66 The Spirit of Seychelles

Delicious Seychelles rum La Plaine St André-style is here to stay.

70 Wonderful Whales and Dolphins They are so different to us in many ways and yet at times surprisingly similar.

74 Alfred Jewel Here is probably the single most famous archaeological object in England.

79 Mountains in the Mist

Experience one of the most beautiful places on earth.

84 Gift of the Gods Fresh from the press, Italy’s olive oil is ambrosial in its delights – a fitting gift,

of the Goddess Athene.

88 The Lighthouse of Denis Island It is one of the oldest lighthouses in the Seychelles presently cherished like a National Monument.

Page 5: sil22no2

Air Seychelles is pleased to welcome you aboard this flight and hopes that you will enjoy our services. Your cabin crew will do everything possible to make your journey pleasant. Should you need any assistance or information, please do not hesitate to call the cabin crew by pressing the call button located on the armrest of your seat.

ImportantFor your information, use of the following equipment on board is strictly prohibited under any circumstances:• FM/AM/TV transmitters or receivers• Citizens Band Transceivers• Full size Computer Printers• Portable Telephones, (not part of the approved aircraft installation)• Remote Control Toys• Satellite Receivers• Scanners• Walkie Talkies• Wireless Microphones

There is growing evidence that the above devices generate interference that could directly affect aircraft navigation and control systems.

Hand BaggagePlease note that one piece of hand baggage, in addition to a handbag and small camera, may be taken on board. For your own safety, you must place your hand baggage either in the overhead storage compartment or under the seat in front of you. The Cabin Crew will remove hand baggage from passengers seated in exit row areas and this will be returned after take-off should it be required in-flight. Please ensure that the contents do not include any prohibited goods and also ensure contents do not spill out, to avoid injuries to you and your fellow passengers.

Infants and ChildrenCabin Crew will assist in preparing baby foods. When possible, baby cots are available for infants.

Special Meals Air Seychelles offers a selection of special meals to suit the dietary and religious needs of passengers provided they are requested prior to the flight, preferably at the time of booking. If you wish to order a special meal for your return flight, please make your request when you re-confirm your flight. Special meals are also available for children, if requested in the same way.

SmokingSmoking is not permitted on all Air Seychelles flights.

SafetySafety is our first priority. Please watch attentively the safety video or safety demonstration given by the flight attendants and read the Safety Instruction Card located in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened for takeoff and landing and when the seat belt sign is illuminated during the flight.

UNRULY/DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR ONBOARD AIR SEYCHELLES’ OWNED/OPERATED AIRCRAFT

In terms of International Civil Aviation legislation and regulations, it is an offence for any person to:

• Constitute any action that jeopardises or may jeopardise the safety of an aircraft, passenger and/or crew

• Disobey valid instruction from a crew member (safety officer)*

• Interfere with the normal operation of the aircraft

• Assault or wilfully interfere with any member of the crew of the aircraft in the performance of his/her duties

• Ignore warning signs and/or safety signs within the cabin of the aircraft

• Wilfully cause damage to an aircraft which renders it incapable of flight or which is likely to endanger its safety in flight

• Communicate any information which he/she knows to be false, thereby endangering the safety of an aircraft in service

• Commit any nuisance or any disorderly or indecent act or to be in a state of intoxication or behave in a violent or offensive manner to the annoyance of any other person on the aircraft, or use abusive, indecent or offensive language.

In terms of Seychelles legislation it is an offence to smoke on any Seychelles registered aircraft. Smoking in the toilet compartments of an aircraft is deemed a safety risk and is lawfully punishable.

Any person committing any of these offences while on board an Air Seychelles flight may be arrested at his/her point of arrival and prosecuted in accordance with the applicable Civil Aviation legislation. Such prosecution may result in the imposition of a fine and/or imprisonment.

It is the policy of Air Seychelles, in the interest of the safety of the travelling public and our employees, to lay the necessary criminal charges against unruly passengers and to aggressively pursue the successful prosecution of such persons.

We now invite you to sit back, relax and enjoy the Air Seychelles in-flight service.

We l c o m e A b o a rd

ComfortFor your comfort, blankets, pillows, socks and eyeshades are available on all overnight flights.

Personal BelongingsBefore leaving the aircraft, please ensure that you have all your personal belongings with you, remembering to check the overhead lockers as well as the seating areas.

Laboutik Duty Free Sales:Sales of duty free goods are conducted on all international flights, time permitting. Please consult the Laboutik Duty Free Brochure in the seat pocket in front of you. This brochure details the range available and the currencies and credit cards that are accepted.

Electronic EquipmentPassengers are requested not to make use of any electronic equipment that could interfere with the navigational equipment on board the aircraft. Please ask the Cabin Crew for assistance.

SprayingHealth regulations at Seychelles International Airport require that the aircraft must be sprayed. The spray used conforms to international regulations and presents no danger to your health. However, we suggest you cover your nose and mouth should you feel you may be inconvenienced by the spray.

In-flight ServiceOur menus are designed to include the wide range of flavours from the Seychelles. Depending on the duration of your flight, one or two meals are served. We offer free drinks on all our flights.

Please note:In terms of International Civil Aviation legislation, the Commander (Captain) of the aircraft is authorised/empowered to take any action deemed necessary, including restraint, of any person who jeopardises the safety of the aircraft or of persons or property on board. In terms of this authority the commander may request and/or authorise any member of the crew to render assistance in terms of restraint or action against such offenders.

In terms of Air Seychelles’ right of refusal of carriage, Air Seychelles reserves the right to refuse boarding to any person who is intoxicated or who, under reasonable grounds, is believed to pose a potential danger to the safety and/or good order and discipline on board its aircraft.

The primary function of a crew member is to act as a safety officer on board an aircraft. All Air Seychelles crew members are trained and licensed as safety officers in terms of International Civil Aviation regulations.

SeatingWhilst your seat is adjustable, it has to be in the upright position, with the foot-rest and tray table stowed, for take-off and landing. Each seat has an individual reading light, enabling you to read at night without disturbing your neighbour.

Page 6: sil22no2

Air Seychelles est heureuse de vous accueillir à bord et espère que vous serez satisfaits de nos services. Notre équipage de bord fera son possible pour rendre votre voyage agréa-

ble. Pour tout renseignement ou aide, n’hésitez pas à appeler les membres de l’équipage en pressant le bouton situé sur l’accoudoir de votre siège.

ImportantPour votre information, l’usage des équipements suivants est formellement interdit à bord sous aucun prétexte:• Emetteurs ou récepteurs FM/AM/TV• Emetteur-récepteur de la citizen band• Imprimantes• Téléphone mobile• Jouets télécommandés• Récepteurs satellitaires• Scanneurs• Talkies-walkies• Micro sans fil

Il devient de plus en plus évident que ces appareils créent des interférences qui peuvent atteindre les réseaux de navigation et de contrôle de l’avion.

Bagage en cabineUn seul bagage à main, en plus d’un sac à main et un petit appareil photo, est autorisé à bord. Pour votre confort et votre sécurité, il doit être placé soit dans le compartiment à bagages soit sous le siège juste en face de vous. Les membres de l’équipage s’occuperont des bagages des passagers assis près des portes de sorties. Ils leur seront restitués après le décollage ou pendant le vol en cas de besoin. Veuillez vous assurer que votre bagage à main ne contient pas de marchandises interdites susceptibles de présenter un danger pour vous ou les autres passagers.

Bébés et enfants en bas âgeUne hôtesse vous assiste pour la préparation des repas pour bébé et installe un berceau selon la disponibilité à bord.

RepasAir Seychelles vous propose une sélection de menus convenant à votre régime alimentaire (ex. régime végétarien) à condition que vous en fassiez la demande lors de la réservation de votre billet. Si vous désirez un menu spécial ou un menu enfant, veuillez informer votre compagnie aérienne ou votre agent de voyage lorsque vous confirmez votre voyage.

Interdiction de fumer Tous les vols Air Seychelles sont non-fumeurs.

Mesures de sûretéVotre sûreté est notre priorité. Nous vous conseillons de suivre bien attentivement la vidéo sur nos écrans ainsi la démonstration de sécurité effectuée par notre personnel de bord avant le décollage. Il vous est également conseillé de lire les consignes de sécurité sur la fiche rangée dans la poche du siège situé en face de vous. Votre ceinture de sécurité doit être obligatoirement bouclée lors du décollage et de l’atterrissage ou pendant le vol, lorsque le petit voyant, situé au-dessus de votre siège, est allumé.

B i e nv e n u e á b o rd

ConfortPour votre confort, une couverture, un oreiller, des chaussettes et un masque sont mis à votre disposition.

Effets personnelsAvant de débarquer, assurez-vous que vous êtes bien en possession de tous vos effets personnels en vérifiant notamment le compartiment à bagages et votre siège.

Les boutiques de vente hors taxes : Les marchandises exemptes de droits existent sur tous les vols internationaux, si le temps le permet. Consultez, s’il vous plait, la brochure concernée qui se trouve dans la pochette du siège qui vous fait face. Cette brochure donne des détails sur le choix des produits disponibles, les devises et les cartes de crédit qui sont acceptées.

Utilisation d’appareils électroniquesLes passagers sont priés de ne pas utiliser d’appareils électroniques susceptibles d’interférer avec les appareils de navigation aérienne à bord. Pour tout renseignement, veuillez vous adresser au personnel de cabine.

DésinsectisationLe règlement sanitaire de l’Aéroport de Mahé exige que l’appareil soit désinsectisé. Le produit utilisé est conforme aux normes internationales et ne présente aucun danger pour la santé ; cependant, si vous pensez qu’il peut vous incommoder, nous vous prions de bien vouloir vous couvrir la bouche et le nez avec un mouchoir.

A bordNos menus vous feront découvrir en avant-garde les saveurs uniques des îles Seychelles. Selon la durée de vol, un ou deux repas seront servis à bord. Pendant toute la durée du vol, le service bar vous propose gratuitement des boissons fraîches.

Veuillez également noter que: D’après les règles de l’Aviation Civile Internationale (OACI), le Commandant de Bord est habilité et a le pouvoir de prendre toutes les mesures nécessaires pour assurer la sécurité des personnes et de leurs biens ainsi que celle de l’appareil, y compris la privation de mouvement pour quiconque pourrait menacer cette sécurité. Dans le cadre de ses fonctions, le Commandant de Bord peut demander à un ou plusieurs membres d’équipage de l’assister dans cette tâche, voire la déléguer pour neutraliser ceux qui commettraient des infractions.

Air Seychelles s’octroie également le droit, conformément à ses conditions générales de transport de refuser l’embarquement à toute personne qui serait sous l’emprise de la drogue et/ou de l’alcool, ou qui représente un danger pour la sécurité, l’ordre et la discipline à bord.

La première fonction des navigants est d’agir comme «officier de sécurité» à bord. Tous les membres d’ équipages d’Air Seychelles sont formés et certifiés «officier de sécurité» au sens des règlements de l’Organisation Internationale e l’Aviation Civile.

SiègesVous pouvez ajuster la position de votre siège en appuyant sur le bouton situé sur l’accoudoir. Cependant, lors du décollage et de l’atterrissage, votre siège doit être obligatoirement redressé, le repose-pieds et la tablette en face de vous, relevés. Chaque siège est pourvu d’un éclairage individuel qui vous permet de lire la nuit sans déranger votre voisin.

P RÉ VE NTIO N D ES CO MPO RTEMEN T S PERTURBATEURS ET DES INDISCIPLINES À BORD DES AÉRONEFS APPARTENANT À AIR SEYCHELLES OU EXPLOITÉS PAR AIR SEYCHELLES.

D’après les règlements de l’Aviation Civile Internationale (OACI), toute personne qui:

• Entreprend une action qui met ou est susceptible de mettre en danger les passagers, l’équipage et/ou l’appareil

• Refuse de se conformer à une injonction d’un membre de l’équipage (officier de sécurité)

• Perturbe le déroulement normal du vol

• Agresse un membre d’équipage

• Perturbe sciemment le travail de l’équipage

• Ne tient pas compte des consignes de sécurité, des signaux lumineux en cabine ou des instructions verbales de l’équipage

• Cause volontairement des dommages à l’appareil qui le rendent inexploitable ou qui mettent à risque la sécurité du vol

• Communique sciemment des informations fausses, mettant ainsi en danger un vol, son équipage et ses passagers.

• A un comportement gênant, perturbateur, indécent, fait preuve de violence à l’égard d’autres personnes, profère des insultes ou des obscénités.

Commet une infraction passible de poursuites. Le règlement de l’Aviation Civile Seychelloise stipule qu’il est interdit de fumer à bord de tout avion immatriculé aux Seychelles. Fumer dans les toilettes constitue un risque pour la sécurité et est puni par la loi.

Quiconque commettra l’une ou plusieurs de ces infractions sera arrêté à destination et poursuivi en vertu des règles de l’aviation civile concernée et du règlement du transporteur. Ces poursuites peuvent conduire à une amende ou une peine de prison, voire les deux.

La politique d’Air Seychelles, dans l’intérêt de ses passagers et de ses employés est de porter systématiquement devant la justice les cas de passagers perturbateurs et d’obtenir leur condamnation.

Nous vous invitons à vous installer confortablement, Vous détendre et profiter du service à bord d’Air Seychelles.

Page 7: sil22no2

N e w s

To mark International Women’s Day, Air Seychelles had an all-female crew on its flight out of Paris on the evening of 7 March 2011. The all-female flight deck and cabin crew contingent flew under the command of Captain Nicole Chang Leng and First Officer, Lishad Matharu. Other crewmembers were Jacqueline Andrews, Corinne Moustache, Jill Thyroomooldy, Shireen Bristol, Mirenda Cardovillis, Natasha Pillay, Stephanie Delcy and Diana Rosalie.

The passengers included six French ladies who were prize winners of a week’s educational visit to Seychelles. For the second consecutive year, Air Seychelles partnered with a leading French newspaper, France Soir, to promote the women of Seychelles and the International Women’s Day. The newspaper, in liaison with the Seychelles Tourist Boars and Air Seychelles’ offices, organised a quiz competition on Seychelles which was published on the France Soir’s website. Air Seychelles’ General Manager France and Europe, Gilles Gosselin, said: “The aim is to promote the modern society of the Seychelles. Our customers, who are mainly from high social backgrounds, are not only demanding as to the quality of their accommodation but also very concerned with the local harmony and the well-being of the Seychellois people”. The Seychelles Tourism Board, Constance Hotels, Le Méridien Resorts and Creole Travel Services hosted the six winners.

They visited Mahé and Praslin and also met prominent Seychellois women who have played a major role in the socio-economic and

cultural life of the islands. Speaking of the national airline’s support and partnership in promoting Seychelles and Air Seychelles International Women’s Day in Europe through France Soir, Air Seychelles’ Executive Chairman, Maurice Loustau-Lalanne said: “Air Seychelles has always recognised the special and very important role women have had in our country and more particularly the airline. As a matter of fact, women are more numerous than their male counterparts in the national airline. Air Seychelles is an equal opportunity employer and staff is employed on merit. The fact that more than half of their human resources contingents are women is an indication of how competitive and capable the women of Seychelles have become. As a force, they have always been strong but their success is an indication that they are ready, willing and able to reach the skies”. Air Seychelles first operated an all-female flight in August 2007 on the Seychelles-Mauritius return sector, which was the first commercial flight of Captain Nicole Chang-Leng, Seychelles first female pilot and first Seychelles woman to captain a B767 jet. Currently Air Seychelles employs 891 staff of which 429 are men and 462 women.

All Female Flight from Paris

Presidential Visit to Air Seychelles

President James A. Michel recently visited the Headquarters of Air Seychelles at the International Airport, where he met with the staff of various departments to talk to them about their work and the changes taking place at the national airline.

“There are a lot of challenges today, as there have been in the past, and we have surmounted them. Today I am proud of Air Seychelles,” said President Michel to the staff of different sections of Air Seychelles.

The President thanked the staff of Air Seychelles for their hard work and dedication and said that he would give them all the support that they need to have a prosperous career in the airline.

“Air Seychelles is the lifeline of our tourism industry…. We have to fly our Creole spirit around the world! I am convinced that Air Seychelles will continue to do so,” he added.

The President noted that the aviation industry around the world was experiencing similar problems to the national airlines, and that in many cases government support was necessary.

Air Seychelles Executive Chairman, Mr Maurice Loustau-Lalanne with all female crew members and the six prize winners (seated).

Ambassador Dessima Williams, the Permanent Representative of Grenada to the United Nations and Chair of the Alliance of Small Island States (AOSIS) at the United Nations in New York and a champion of gender issues herself, warmly congratulated the all-female flight crew with the message: “I send to the all-female Seychellois Boeing 767 crew, and to the women of Seychelles, my warm and sincere congratulations on their accomplishment. Economic empowerment, national political symbolism, pride and women’s attainment are all wrapped into one here. It is also the small being big! Wonderful, and I again congratulate you.”

President James A. Michel (third from left) meets with Air Seychelles staff.

Page 8: sil22no2

Ti k-Ti k

Air Seychelles has given a Creole touch to the interior décor of its B767 fleet by featuring paintings of local artist, George Camille, which adorn the bulkheads, separating the different seating classes on board.

This forms part of the national airline’s on-going programme to enhance both in-flight passenger comfort and service delivery whilst also keeping in line with its ‘Flying the Creole Spirit’ theme.

The national airline is encouraging other artists to come forward if they are interested in having their works featured onboard the aircraft. The works will appear on menu covers and other publications placed in-flight.

There are four different paintings of George Camille appearing onboard the B767 of the national airline. George Camille’s paintings from his Watercolour and Acrylic Collage collections are also featured on Air Seychelles Pearl Class menu cards.

The Air Seychelles family excelled at the Carnival float parade held throughout the streets of Victoria on Saturday 5 March 2011. Dressed in their colourful costumes, the group of around 70 staff had gathered at Stad Linite at 10 am for a final briefing, face painting and selection of costumes, full of enthusiasm, excitement and committed to promoting the Creole Spirit and the Wonderful World of the Creoles – which was the theme of the Air Seychelles float parade. The International Carnival of Victoria is a reflection of the Seychelles’ social cohesion, customs and values, harmony and unity as a people of diverse origins.

The President of the Republic of Seychelles, James A. Michel, gave his congratulations, saying: “I would like to extend my sincere gratitude to Air Seychelles for your invaluable contribution to the International Carnival

of Victoria. Your sponsorship of this event contributed to its success – a resounding success by all accounts. It also testifies to your commitment towards the further development of our tourism industry in all its aspects and the projection of our image on the international scene. The arrangements for the Carnival were meticulous and all the participants put on an excellent performance. I appreciate the hard work and dedication that went in the preparation and organisation of the various events; the results speak for themselves. Once again, thank you very much for your sponsorship of the event, which contributed in no small measure to the enhancement of the image of Seychelles. I am grateful for your support.”

Mr. Maurice Loustau-Lalanne, Executive Chairman of Air Seychelles, said: “I would personally like to thank Air

Seychelles family who participated in the Air Seychelles float during the Carnival parade. I have noticed the excellent team spirit which exists in this organisation, and which was highlighted with the zest and motivation displayed at the Carnival. You all have made us proud through the great performance given and the board of directors and management join me in extending our heartfelt thanks. To the organisers of the Air Seychelles float – who have worked endlessly and tirelessly over nights and days – a big thank you. You did us proud. I look forward to seeing more staff participate in activities organised by the Creole Sky Club. Together we have clearly demonstrated the enriching joie-de-vivre of the Wonderful World of the Creoles by Flying the Creole Spirit!”

Air Seychelles Participation at the Carnival

Brand New Twin Otter enters serviceAir Seychelles’ latest DHC6-400 Twin Otter commenced inter-island commercial flights at the beginning of April. Named the Isle of Curieuse, the DHC6-400 Twin Otter was manufactured by Viking Air of Canada and arrived in Seychelles earlier this year.

Air Seychelles Executive Chairman, Maurice Loustau-Lalanne said: “The brand new Twin Otter joins our inter-island service at an opportune time, when our domestic services are facing increasing passenger traffic”.

The Isle of Curieuse sports a new livery. Each aircraft in the domestic fleet will have a different paint scheme. This particular aircraft’s livery portrays our Creole Spirit in an abstract depiction of a moutia manifestation at sunset. The Creole Spirit embodies a distinct approach to, and celebration of, life that is unique to the Seychelles Islands. The explosion of vibrant colours faithfully echoes an authentic, exotic, island style way of living rooted in the multi-ethnic harmony of a soulful way of living close to the rhythms of nature.

The acquisition of a brand new DHC6-400 Twin Otter aircraft is testimony to Air Seychelles’ commitment to its partners in the tourism, travel and hospitality trade. It is a very significant investment in the region of Seychelles Rupees 56 million.

This new addition joins the domestic fleet of the existing three Twin Otters and one Shorts-360-300.

A Creole Touch to Air Seychelles B767 Interior Decor

Page 9: sil22no2

Making dreams come true…Air Seychelles acquires Boeing 787 Dreamliners

Air Seychelles plans to replace its current fleet of B767-300 with the highly efficient and cost effective B787 Dreamliners.

Air Seychelles Chairman and Chief Executive, Captain David Savy commented: “Our choice of the B787-800 Dreamliner is based primarily on the operational savings it brings, especially in terms of fuel efficiency and lower maintenance costs. This airplane was also designed with people in mind. This combination is a sure winner”.

Serious consideration was also given to the fact that Air Seychelles is a high end destination with a discerning clientele who expect the best. A young and modern fleet is essential.

“B787 Dreamliners will offer unrivalled levels of comfort and in-flight amenities with wider space in economy class and lie-flat seats in business class” Captain Savy said.

Air Seychelles has been operating Boeing aircraft since 1986, with the B707-320, B757, B737-700 and B767. The current average age of the B767 fleet is only 7 years. The company’s objective is always to have the youngest fleet operating to the Indian Ocean.

The Boeing 787 Dreamliner has had the most successful programme launch in Boeing’s history with the first aircraft scheduled to enter commercial service soon. Boeing currently has a total of 385 orders of this new aircraft worldwide.

The B787 is a family of airplanes carrying between 200 and 300 passengers depending on cabin configuration and is a natural successor to the very successful B767-300.

The aircraft also flies faster, matching the speed of the B747 and B777. This will translate in a flight time reduction of some 35 minutes.

Passengers can expect a superior product as the latest technology is being incorporated to help people feel better during and after a long flight. The Dreamliner will provide higher humidity levels in the cabin, a lower cabin altitude, state of the art acoustics, innovative lighting, wider seats and aisles, bigger overhead bins and larger windows, all of which will greatly improve the overall flying experience. State of the art entertainment will be offered with each individual seat having its own monitor. The aircraft will be e-enabled for total connectivity.

The B787 will be the most eco-friendly airplane in its class which is appropriate for the Seychelles which are possibly the most eco-friendly islands of the world with some 48% of its territory declared reserves.

The following website has useful information on the B787 Dreamliner: www.newairplane.com

Boeing 787-8Passengers: 245-270 seats (two classes)

Range: 14,800-15,700 km

Configuration: Twin aisle

Cross Section: 5.74m

Wing Span: 60m

Length: 57m, Height: 17m

Cruise Speed: Mach 0.85

Max. take -off weight: 476,000 lbs

Page 10: sil22no2
Page 11: sil22no2

Far from any continental land mass, the islands of Seychelles have long been likened to a string of pearls set in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean. No wonder that the slogan of this proud nation, one of the world’s prime holiday destinations, is ‘Not just another place, another world ‘. And it is delivered with an invitation that no normal person can resist, an invitation to ‘Discover the Islands’, which lie just four degrees south of the Equator and are literally 1,000 miles from anywhere.

As the world becomes ever smaller, Seychelles is becoming increasingly accessible to holiday-makers from around the globe. With the greatest of ease, Air Seychelles whisks an ever increasing number of visitors from Europe, Africa, the Far East and the Middle

Discover Seychelles

Eloignées de toute masse continentale, les îles Seychelles ont longtemps été comparées à un chapelet de perles dans les eaux bleues de l’océan indien. Pas étonnant que le slogan de cette fière nation, dont le pays est l’une des destinations de vacances les plus prisées dans le monde, soit ‘Pas juste un autre endroit, un autre monde’. Et celui-ci s’accompagne d’une invitation à laquelle aucune personne normalement constituée ne peut résister, une invitation ‘à la découverte des îles’, situées à seulement quatre degrés de latitude en dessous de l’équateur et littéralement à mille lieues de tout autre endroit.

Au fur et à mesure que le monde rétrécit, les Seychelles deviennent de plus en plus accessibles aux agences de voyage et aux tours opérateurs du monde entier. Air Seychelles emmène ainsi chaque année avec la plus grande facilité un nombre croissant de visiteurs d’Europe, d’Afrique, du Proche Orient et de l’extrême Orient pour goûter aux délices nombreux et variés de ces îles.

A la Découverte des îles

10 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

East to sample the many and varied delights of the islands. Within these few square kilometres is a land of colourful contrasts; the bleached granite rocks, thrusting up from the sea like the peaks of a sunken mountain range lie in the shadow of lush tropical vegetation clinging to steep mountain sides. In the middle of a beach of white coral sand, a sudden upthrust of granite resembles a scene from the film 2001: A Space Odyssey.

The people of the islands reflect these same dramatic contrasts. A description of a typical Seychellois is impossible; their ancestors include British and French seamen, freed African slaves, and Indian and Chinese merchants. Their skin tone can be fair or dark, their hair blonde or black, their eyes blue or brown. But they all share a gentle and cheerful character, combined with a nature as warm and welcoming as their island home.

Parmi ces quelques kilomètres carrés de terres se trouve un pays de contrastes colorés: les rochers de granite , surgissant de la mer comme les pics d’une chaîne de montagnes engloutie, gisent dans l’ombre d’une végétation tropicale luxuriante s’accrochant jusqu’aux versants abrupts des montagnes. Au milieu d’une plage de sable corallien blanc, la présence d’un monolithe de granite fait penser à une scène du célèbre film: 2001, Odyssée de l’Espace.

Les gens qui peuplent ces îles montrent un contraste tout aussi saisissant. Décrire un Seychellois typique est ainsi impossible, car leurs ancêtres sont des marins français et britanniques, des esclaves africains affranchis, des marchands indiens et chinois. Le teint de peau des Seychellois peut être aussi bien clair que foncé, leurs cheveux blonds ou bruns, leurs yeux bleus ou marrons. Mais ils partagent tous un même caractère doux et gai, ainsi qu’une façon d’être aussi chaleureuse et accueillante que leurs îles natales.

Page 12: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 13: sil22no2

12 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Portuguese navigator, Fernao Soares, recorded the islands, which appear regularly on charts after this date as the ‘Seven Sisters’.

The British made their first appearance on Seychelles in 1609 when the ships Ascension and Good Hope arrived at Mahé during an expedition for the British East India Company. They made no claim to the islands, which remained uninhabited, although they might have been used as a secret refuge by pirates, who add a touch of drama and mystery to their story.

In 1742 the Frenchman, Lazare Picault, landed on Mahé at Anse Boileau (not Baie Lazare, which now bears his name). He named the islands after Mahé de Labourdonnais, the governor of Mauritius, who had sent him. Fourteen years later, Mahé and the inner islands were formally claimed in the name of the King of France. Mahé was named Isle

History of SeychellesThe history of Seychelles could have come straight out of a story book: a tale of intrepid explorers, fearsome pirates and brutal battles for the islands’ bountiful treasures. The first serious exploration took place only in 1742, but early navigators, such as the Indonesians and Arabs, probably arrived before this time in search of fresh water and food. These visitors did not leave physical evidence of their passing, unless it was they who introduced the casuarina tree and coconut palm. It is possible that Arab merchants knew Seychelles as the source of the rare and valuable coco de mer nuts and came here to collect them, keeping the location secret so that they could sell them at inflated prices.

Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer, sailed through the Amirantes group in 1503, en route from India, and might also have sighted the granitic islands. In 1506 another

Séchelles, which later became the name of the group. The origin of the name is unclear; it might have been in honour of Moreau de Séchelles, a former controller-general of finance in France, but, as he was disgraced at the time, it seems more likely to have been a tribute to members of his family who were related through marriage to the governor of Mauritius. The Stone of Possession, which was set above the entrance to the port, is now in the National Museum.

In 1768, the French also claimed Praslin, named after their marine minister, the Duke of Praslin. La Digue and Curieuse were named after the ships which visited the islands at this time. In 1770 settlers arrived on St Anne from Mauritius. They later abandoned this settlement and moved across to Mahé.

In 1772, Pierre Poivre sent spice plants to Seychelles, hoping to establish them there and allow

France to compete with the Dutch in the valuable spice trade. Chevalier Quéau de Quincy was appointed administrator of Seychelles in 1794. During the long revolutionary wars between Britain and France, several British men-of-war called at Seychelles. Having no means of defence, Quincy was forced to capitulate to the British seven times. These capitulations were a form of ‘temporary surrender with honour’, with favourable terms for Seychelles skillfully negotiated by Quincy.

At the end of the war Mauritius and Seychelles were ceded to the British under the Treaty of Paris. The British recognised Quincy’s abilities and kept him on as juge de paix of the colony until his death in 1827. He is buried in the grounds of State House.

In 1903 Seychelles became a crown colony in its own right, detached from Mauritius. From

Page 14: sil22no2

13DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS DISCOVER SEYCHELLES LES îLES

1861, slaves liberated from Arab dhows off East Africa were brought to Seychelles to begin new lives, swelling the population by nearly 3,000. Two world wars during the 20th century touched Seychelles only lightly, but times were changing fast. The embryo of the first political party, the Taxpayers’ Association, was formed in 1939.

In March 1975, a new constitution was drawn up and a coalition government established ready for independence in June 1976, when James Mancham became President and Albert René Prime Minister. Following a coup d’état in 1977, Seychelles became a one-party state, with Albert René as president and the Seychelles’ People’s Progressive Front as the ruling party. Multi-party elections were restored in 1993, when René was again returned as President, with Mancham (Democratic Party)

leader of the opposition. René was re-elected in 1998, and also at the early elections called in 2001, where the opposition, led by Wavel Ramkalawan (Seychelles National Party), obtained a high percentage. René retired in April 2004 and handed over the presidency to his Vice President, James Michel, who was re-elected in July 2006.

Seychelles has a population of about 85,000. Its people are descended from the original French settlers, their African slaves, the liberated slaves rescued from slavers in the 19th century, and some British settlers. This melting pot has been enriched by traders from India and China, intermingling to produce an almost unparalleled and multifaceted community, yet one that is completely integrated.

The Seychelles’ rich racial blend is reflected in its varied culture and food. Music brought to the islands

by the European settlers and played on violins or accordions has blended with the beat of the tomtom, the makalapo (a stringed instrument with a tin for a sound box), the bom (a bowed instrument), and the sez (a monochord sitar). A typical Seychelles dance is the moutias which blends African and Malagasy rhythms in a popular communal dance usually staged at night around a fire. European influences can be seen in the contre-danse, which has its roots in the court of Louis XIV of France, the Sun King, and the mazok and kosez, which are reminiscent of the waltz and the quadrille.

The main language of the islands is Creole, but most people speak English and some French. Creole is a phonetic language, similar to that found in other territories where there has been French influence, such as Mauritius and New Orleans.

French words were given a harder pronunciation and syllables which were not pronounced were dropped altogether.

Thus Bonjour (Good morning) becomes Bonzour and s’il vous plait (please) becomes sivouple.

The spiritual life of the Seychellois ranges from the centuries-old local magic, called gris-gris, to the far reaching influence of the Roman Catholic Church. Often these beliefs run alongside each other. Many local people still consult their bonnomn dibwa, or medicine man, seeking spells or potions for love, luck or revenge. However, the Seychellois are also avid church-goers and consider church a particularly social occasion.

The Seychellois are never in a hurry. There is always time for a chat or a smile. Their lifestyle is characterised by a warm, happy-go-lucky attitude that foreign influences have been unable to dampen or disturb.

Page 15: sil22no2

14 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

L’histoire des SeychellesL’histoire des Seychelles pourrait sortir tout droit d’un livre de contes: un récit d’explorateurs intrépides, de pirates n’ayant peur de rien, et de brutales batailles pour les nombreux trésors de ces îles. La première exploration sérieuse prit place en 1742, mais des navigateurs anciens tels que les Indonésiens ou les Arabes visitèrent probablement les Seychelles bien avant en quête de nourriture et d’eau douce. Ces visiteurs ne laissèrent pas de traces de leur passage, bien qu’on leur attribue l’introduction du Casuarina et du Cocotier. Il est possible que les marchands arabes aient visité régulièrement ces îles pour y récolter les rares et précieux Coco-de -mer, et qu’ils aient tenu leur emplacement secret afin de pouvoir vendre ces noix encore plus cher.

Vasco de Gama, l’explorateur portugais qui navigua à travers l’archipel des Amirantes en 1503 sur sa route vers l’Inde, a peut-être lui-aussi pu voir les îles granitiques. En 1506, un autre navigateur portugais, Fernao Soares, nota la présence de ces îles qui, après son passage, figurèrent régulièrement sur les cartes comme ‘Les Sept Sœurs’.

Les Britanniques firent leur première apparition aux Seychelles en 1609, lorsque les bateaux Ascension et Good Hope (Bonne Espérance) arrivèrent à Mahé au cours d’une expédition de la British East India Company (Compagnie britannique des Indes orientales). Ils ne revendiquèrent pas la propriété de ces îles, qui restèrent inhabitées, bien qu’elles aient pu être utilisées comme refuge secret par certains pirates, ce qui rajoute une touche de drame et de mystère à leur histoire.

En 1742, le Français Lazare Picault débarqua à Mahé à Anse Boileau (et non pas Baie Lazare, qui aujourd’hui porte son nom). Il nomma l’île d’après Mahé de Labourdonnais, gouverneur de l’Ile Maurice, qui l’avait envoyé. Quatorze années plus tard, Mahé et les îles proches furent officiellement revendiquées par le roi de France. Mahé fut nommée Isle Séchelles, nom qui par la suite fut donné à l’archipel en entier. L’origine de ce nom n’est pas claire. Il est possible qu’il ait été donné en honneur de Moreau de Séchelles, un ancien contrôleur général des Finances en France, mais vu que celui-ci était déjà tombé en disgrâce à cette époque, il semble plus probable qu’il s’agisse d’un hommage à des membres de sa famille devenus parents par mariage avec le gouverneur de Maurice.

La Pierre de Possession, qui fut érigée à l’entrée du port, est maintenant exposée au Musée d’Histoire. En 1768, les Français revendiquèrent aussi Praslin, nommée d’après le ministre de la marine de l’époque, le Duc de Praslin. La Digue et Curieuse furent nommées d’après des navires de l’époque qui visitèrent

les îles. En 1770, les premiers colons en provenance de l’Ile de France (aujourd’hui Maurice) débarquèrent à Sainte Anne. Ils abandonnèrent ensuite ce premier établissement et s’installèrent en face sur Mahé.

En 1772, Pierre Poivre envoya des plants d’épices aux Seychelles, avec l’espoir de pouvoir les y faire pousser et faire ainsi la concurrence aux Hollandais dans le commerce lucratif des épices. Le Chevalier Quéau de Quincy fut nommé Administrateur des Seychelles en 1794. Pendant les longues années de guerre de la période révolutionnaire entre la Grande Bretagne et la France, plusieurs hommes de guerre britanniques se présentèrent aux Seychelles. N’ayant aucun moyen de défense, Quincy fut forcé de capituler devant les Anglais plusieurs fois. Ces capitulations étaient une forme de ‘reddition temporaire avec honneur’, et s’accompagnaient de conditions favorables aux Seychelles habilement négociées par Quincy. A la fin de la guerre, les Seychelles et Maurice furent cédées aux Britanniques par le Traité de Paris. Ces derniers reconnurent les capacités de Quincy et le gardèrent comme juge de paix de la colonie, jusqu’à sa mort en 1827. A partir de 1861, des esclaves libérés des marchands arabes au large des côtes d’Afrique de l’Est furent amenés aux Seychelles pour y commencer de nouvelles vies, grossissant la population d’environ 3,000 personnes. Les deux guerres mondiales du 20ème siècle n’affectèrent que peu les Seychelles, mais les temps changeaient rapidement. Ainsi l’embryon du premier parti politique, l’Association des Contribuables’, fut formé en 1939.

En mars 1975, une nouvelle constitution fut établie et un gouvernement de coalition constitué afin de préparer l’indépendance en 1976 ; James Mancham devint Président de la République et France Albert René le Premier ministre. A la suite d’un coup d’Etat en 1977, les Seychelles adoptèrent un système à parti unique avec Albert René comme Président et le Front Progressiste du Peuple Seychellois comme parti dirigeant. Le multipartisme fut ré-introduit avec les élections de 1993, où René fut élu président et Mancham devint chef de l’opposition. René fut à nouveau réélu en 1998 ainsi qu’aux élections anticipées de 2001, où l’opposition conduite par Wavel Ramkalawan (Parti National Seychellois) obtint un score élevé. René se retira en Avril 2004 et passa le pouvoir à son vice-Président, James Michel, qui fut ensuite réélu en Juillet 2006.

Les Seychelles ont une population d’environ 85,000 habitants, qui sont les descendants des premiers colons français, de leurs esclaves africains, des esclaves libérés des trafiquants au cours

du 19ème siècle, et de quelques colons britanniques. Ce creuset racial et culturel s’est ensuite enrichi avec les apports de marchands venus d’Inde et de Chine, le tout se mélangeant pour produire une communauté à multiples facettes quasiment inégalée et complètement harmonieuse. Le riche mélange racial des Seychelles est reflété par sa culture et sa cuisine diversifiée. La musique amenée par les colons européens, jouée sur des violons ou des accordéons s’est mêlée aux sons des tam-tams, du ‘makalapo’ (un instrument à cordes utilisant une boite de conserve comme caisse de résonance), le ‘bom’ (un instrument arqué), et le ‘sez’ (une cithare monocorde). La ‘Moutia’ est une danse typique des Seychelles, qui mêle les rythmes africains et malgaches en une danse populaire de groupe normalement pratiquée la nuit autour d’un feu. On ressent les influences européennes dans la contredanse, qui puise ses racines à la cour du roi français Louis XIV, le Roi Soleil, et dans le ‘mazok’ et la ‘kosez’, qui rappellent la valse et le quadrille.

Le principal langage parlé dans les îles est le Créole, mais la plupart des gens parlent aussi l’anglais et le français.

Le Créole est une langue phonétique, similaire à celle rencontré dans les autres territoires jadis sous influence française, comme Maurice ou la Nouvelle-Orléans.

On a donné aux mots français une prononciation plus simplifiée et on a laissé tomber les syllabes qui ne se prononçaient pas.

Ainsi Bonjour devient ‘Bonzour’ en Créole, et s’il vous plait ‘sivouple’.

La vie spirituelle des Seychellois s’étend de la magie locale séculaire, appelée ‘gris-gris’, à l’influence dominante de l’Eglise Catholique. Souvent ces croyances se côtoient. Beaucoup de personnes consultent encore leur ‘Bonnonm dibwa’, ou sorcier, à la recherche de potions ou de sorts pour l’amour, la chance ou la revanche. Cependant, les Seychellois fréquentent assidûment les églises et considèrent le fait d’y aller comme un évènement social important.

Les Seychellois ne sont jamais pressés. Il y a toujours du temps pour parler ou pour un sourire. Leur style de vie est caractérisé par une attitude insouciante et chaleureuse que les influences extérieures ont été incapables d’abattre ou d’altérer.

Page 16: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 17: sil22no2

16 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Mahé

The main island of Seychelles is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and impressive in the world. Each of its 70 beaches has a different character; the rock formations behind them are a dramatic contrast and a beautiful backdrop for the architectural elegance of the hotels.

Mahé covers roughly 150 square kilometres and is 27 kilometres long and seven kilometres wide. Considering its mountainous interior, covered with lush vegetation, it is small wonder that the island’s original name was Ile d’Abondance.

The highest point, Morne Seychellois, is 930 metres above sea level. Even high up in the interior the roads are good. There are plenty of opportunities for walks through winding paths to appreciate the lush flora and fauna at close quarters, especially in the Morne Seychellois National Park.

The airport, south of Victoria, is built on reclaimed land. Landing there is an interesting experience – offering stunning views of the verdant island and its coastline.

Victoria, the national capital with a population of some 20,000, is spread around a large bay at the foot of Morne Seychellois and the Trois Frères. This small town is the islands’ economic and administrative hub, as well as their only international port.

The clock tower in the city centre is a replica of the clock that stands at the junction of Victoria street and Vauxhall Bridge Road in central London. Erected as a memorial to Queen Victoria in 1903, the Seychelles clock tower is today more readily associated with the declaration that year of Seychelles as a Crown colony.

A more modern structure, just outside the old town centre, is a huge sculpture by Lorenzo Appiani – the Bicentennial Monument – representing the three continents from which the Seychelles people originate. If you want to arrange a meeting place, however, the locals tend to use the Pirate’s Arms on Independence Avenue, where one can have a drink or a meal. The first hotel in Seychelles was built not far away, at the intersection of Poudrière street and Francis Rachel street. While no one street is best for souvenir shopping, there are clusters of shops and boutiques near the traffic lights and the taxi rank, and in the arcade on Francis Rachel street. There are also boutiques in the Temooljee building in the same street, near the Pirate’s Arms and at the foot of Independence Avenue. Local crafts can also be purchased at the kiosks on Francis Rachel street and on Market street. The new Sir Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Market, which was opened in 1999, is noted for its noisy and colourful

atmosphere, especially on Saturday mornings. Red chillies, flavoured with garlic and ginger (mazavarou) will give a special ‘Creole touch’ to your dishes. There are two national museums in Victoria – the Natural History Museum, ‘guarded’ by a large cement crocodile and a dugong, on Independence Avenue, and the National History Museum, together with the National Library and Archives are located near Le Chantier roundabout while the Botanical Gardens are on the Mont Fleuri Road, next to the Hospital. Departure point for many of the island excursions is the Marine Charter Association wharf, next to the Yacht Club. There are two cathedrals (one Roman Catholic and

one Anglican), one Hindu temple and a Mosque in Victoria.

Then there are the beaches, the glory of Seychelles. The east coast, on which the airport is situated, has long beaches such as Anse Marie-Louise, but there are also many small beaches, some of which you can call your own at times.

Those wishing to avoid crowds will also like Anse Intendance on the south coast, but caution should be observed here and at several other beaches because of strong currents. It is advisable to check on local conditions before swimming or snorkelling. Most beaches, however, are perfectly safe, such as Anse à la Mouche, a large palm-fringed bay with shallow waters,

ideal for swimming and snorkelling. There are more interesting beaches, such as Barbarons and Port Glaud, Ile Thérèse, Port Launay Marine National Park or Anse Major (in the National Park near Bel Ombre). Care should be taken with strong currents when snorkelling off nearby Anse Takamaka. Slightly north is Baie Lazare, with its dramatic granite backdrop.

To many, the king of beaches is Beau Vallon, in the north of the island – a huge two-mile-long curve of white sand with crystal-clear water that is especially calm and welcoming. Several hotels on Beau Vallon offer excellent watersports and diving facilities.

Pict

ure

cour

tesy

ww

w.w

ikip

edia

.com

Page 18: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 19: sil22no2
Page 20: sil22no2
Page 21: sil22no2

20 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

St Anne and its Marine National ParkThe smaller islands that are most accessible from Mahé for half-day or full-day trips are Cerf, Moyenne, Round and St Anne. The best way to appreciate the wonders of the ocean is to make the trip by glass-bottomed boat, through which you can see shoals of colourful fish. Unfortunately large sections of coral have suffered from a rise in sea temperatures (attributed to climate change), although some are showing signs of recovery.

Constituted in 1973, the St Anne Marine National Park was one of the first Marine National Parks in the Indian Ocean. It now protects over 150 types of fish. Naturally, fishing is forbidden, as is collecting shells and coral. As the notice says, “Take away nothing but photographs and memories.”

With the new five-star hotel, Sainte Anne Resort, (managed by the International Company Beachcomber) the island is now a holiday paradise for visitors.

Sainte Anne et le Parc Marin NationalDes excursions d’une journée ou d’une demi-journée peuvent être facilement organisées sur les îles Cerf, Moyenne, Ronde, et Sainte Anne, au large de Mahé. Le meilleur moyen d’apprécier les merveilles de l’océan est de s’offrir une traversée en bateau à fond de verre vers l’une de ces îles. Car cela permet d’admirer les innombrables bancs de poissons. Malheureusement, les formations coralliennes ont souffert du réchauffement de l’eau, phénomène attribué au changement du climat, mais montrent des signes de récupération.

Le Parc Marin National de Ste Anne, qui fut constitué en 1973, est l’un des premiers de l’océan indien. Il abrite aujourd’hui plus de 150 espèces de poissons. La pêche et le ramassage du corail y sont strictement

interdits. Comme le dit si bien la brochure touristique: “N’emportez rien sauf des photos, ne laissez rien sauf des traces de pas.”

Avec le nouveau complexe hôtelier cinq étoiles de Sainte-Anne, (géré par la compagnie internationale Beachcomber) l’île est maintenant devenue une destination touristique paradisiaque.

Mahé

L’île principale des Seychelles est, sans aucun doute, l’une des plus belles îles du monde avec ses 70 plages au caractère particulier. Les magnifiques formations rocheuses, qui séparent les plages de l’intérieur de l’île, resemblent à un décor de théâtre dans lequel se fond l’élégante architecture des hôtels.

Mahé couvre environ 150 kilomètres carrés, mesurant 27 kilomètres de long et 7 kilomètres de large. L’abondante végétation qui recouvre son relief montagneux lui a valu autrefois le nom d’Ile d’Abondance. Le point culminant de cette île s’élève à 930 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer. Le réseau routier est carrossable jusque dans les coins les plus reculés de l’intérieur. De nombreux chemins de promenades à pied permettent d’admirer de près la flore et la faune de l’île, en particulier dans le Parc National du Morne Seychellois.

Au sud de Victoria, la capitale, se trouve l’aéroport de Mahé. Le seul fait d’y atterrir est une expérience inoubliable à cause de la vue magnifique que l’on a de l’île verdoyante et de sa côte.

Victoria, avec sa population d’environ 20,000 habitants, s’étend le long d’une baie au pied du Morne Seychellois et des Trois Frères. Cette ville minuscule est le centre administratif et financier des Seychelles

ainsi que le seul port de l’île. La tour de l’horloge est une copie miniature de celle située à l’intersection de Victoria Street et Vauxhall Bridge Road près de la gare Victoria à Londres. Elle fût édifiée en 1903 en hommage à la reine Victoria. Mais aujourd’hui, elle est plutôt considérée comme un symbole de l’élévation des Seychelles au rang de colonie de la Couronne, indépendante de l’Ile Maurice.

La monumentale sculpture du bicentenaire de Lorenzo Appiani au centre de la ville, représente les trois continents dont le peuple Seychellois est originaire: l’Europe, l’Afrique et l’Asie. Le Pirates Arms, sur la place de l’Indépendance, est un lieu de rencontre populaire où l’on peut boire et se restaurer. Bien qu’aucune rue en particulier ne soit la meilleure pour l’achat de souvenirs il y a bon nombre de boutiques au voisinage des uniques feux de circulation de l’île, près de la station de taxis, et dans la rue Francis Rachel. Il y a aussi des boutiques intéressantes dans l’édifice Temooljee situé dans la même rue, près du Pirates Arms, et au début de l’avenue de l’Indépendance.

Le site du premier hôtel qui fut construit aux Seychelles se trouve à l’intersection de la rue de la Poudrière et de la rue Francis Rachel.

Le “Marine Charter Association”, proche du cercle nautique, est le point de départ de nombreuses excursions. La rue du Marché est fascinante avec ses étalages de produits locaux et de souvenirs, son ambiance bruyante et colorée, en particulier les samedis matins. Les piments rouges, assaisonnés d’ail et de gingembre (mazavarou), en vente au marché (entièrement rénové en 1999), ne manqueront pas de relever votre cuisine d’une touche créole. On trouve à Victoria deux cathédrales (une catholique et une anglicane), un temple hindou et une mosquée.

Le Musée d’Histoire Naturelle, gardé par son crocodile et son Dugong en ciment, se trouve dans l’avenue de l’Indépendance, tandis que le Musée National d’Histoire, où est exposée la Pierre de Possession française, la Bibliothèque et les Archives Nationales se situent dans la rue Francis Rachel, et le Jardin Botanique sur la route de Mont-Fleuri, près de l’Hôpital.

Et puis, bien sûr, il y a les plages, la fierté de l’île. Sur la côte est, au Sud de l’aéroport, s’étendent de grandes plages telle que l’Anse Marie Louise ainsi que de plus petites plages souvent désertes. L’Anse Intendance, sur la côte sud, fait parfaitement l’affaire de ceux qui préfèrent se tenir à l’écart des foules,

quoique les baignades y soient quelque peu dangereuses de mai à septembre. De même, il faut être prudent lorsque l’on fait de la plongée ou du P.M.T. (Palme-Masque-Tuba) au large de l’Anse Takamaka et plus généralement tout le long de la côte sud et ouest de l’île, en raison des courants qui peuvent y être dangereux. Un peu plus au Nord, se trouve Baie Lazare, avec son arrière-plan de granite tout à fait spectaculaire.

En remontant la côte ouest, il est conseillé d’accéder à la plage suivante, la merveilleuse Anse Soleil, par un chemin pédestre, avant de se diriger vers Anse à la Mouche, une grande plage bordée de palmiers dont l’eau peu profonde en fait un lieu idéal pour la baignade ou le P.M.T. Il y a bien d’autres magnifiques plages, dont Barbarons, Port Glaud, et l’Ile Thérèse, Port Launay ou Anse Major (à laquelle on accède via Bel Ombre) qui sont des Parcs nationaux. La reine des plages, pour beaucoup de personnes, c’est celle de Beau Vallon, au Nord de l’île. Celle-ci se présente comme une longue promenade de trois kilomètres de sable blanc, caressée par une eau claire particulièrement accueillante et calme. On trouvera là plusieurs hôtels offrant tout l’équipement nécessaire aux sports nautiques.

Pict

ure

cour

tesy

ww

w.w

ikip

edia

.com

Page 22: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 23: sil22no2

22 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Moyenne Island National ParkAt just nine hectares, Moyenne Island may be the world’s smallest National Park. Privately owned, it lies within the St Anne Marine National Park and is the only island of the group open to day visitors. Despite its diminutive size, it is an environmental treasure trove. Some 40 endemic plants are represented, more than half of those unique to the granitic islands. Moyenne is the only place on earth other than Vallée de Mai where all six of the palms unique to Seychelles can be seen.

Moyenne also has a population of more than 2,000 birds, 100 giant tortoises and about 20 hawksbill turtles haul themselves ashore at Pirate Cove each year. Perhaps pirates were the earliest human inhabitants and graves of mysterious origin may date from this era. There are also tales of ghosts that bang on windows and doors or trudge from the cemetery around midnight, eloquently told in the book A Grain of Sand.

Moyenne Island

Parc NationalGrande de seulement 9 hectares, l’île Moyenne est un des plus petits parcs nationaux. C’est une île privée, dans le parc national de St Anne, mais elle demeure facilement accessible au public. Malgré sa petite taille, c’est un véritable trésor. Plus de la moitie des plantes endémiques et uniques aux îles granitiques y est présente. Moyenne est le seul endroit au monde en dehors de la Vallée de Mai où poussent les six palmes uniques aux Seychelles.

Moyenne a une population de plus de 100 tortues géantes et environ une vingtaine de tortues marines imbriquées qui viennent pondre sur ses plages .Les premiers habitants de l’île étaient sans doute des pirates, ce qui expliquerait les tombeaux qui s’y trouvent. Et aussi, il y a les fameuses histoires de fantômes qui s’aventurent depuis lecimetière a minuit, frappant aux portes et fenêtres, comme si bien raconté dans le livre ‘Un Grain de Sable’!

Eden Island

Eden Island is a private residential marina development situated just off the coast of Mahé. Featuring close on 450 freehold title luxury apartments, spacious maisons and private villas, each with its own mooring, it also offers owners the opportunity to qualify for residency of the Seychelles.

The over 56 hectares of land and private waterways will host a myriad of upmarket facilities. These include an international marina capable of handling super-yachts up to 100 metres in size, a commercial precinct as well as a clubhouse hosting a gym, tennis courts as well as a bar and restaurant.

The overall style of the island is distinctly rooted in the Seychelles vernacular, drawing inspiration from the islands’ French, Victorian and Indian ancestry. For more information, contact Christopher Nel or Faye Roby on +248 346 000, visit the island yourself or visit www.edenisland.sc.

Eden Island

Eden Island est une marina résidentielle située proche de Mahé. Elle propose, en pleine propriété, 450 appartements luxueux, maisons spacieuses et villas de rêve indépendantes.

Chaque unité dispose de son propre point de mouillage et les propriétaires. Eden Island développe 56 hectares de terrain et de voies navigables. Elle abrite une marina internationale capable d’accueillir les Yachts jusqu’à 100 mètres et bientôt un centre commercial, des bars, des restaurants ainsi qu’un club house avec salle de fitness et cours de tennis.

L’architecture et le design de l’île s’inspirent des influences historiques françaises, anglaises et indiennes dans le plus pur style seychellois. Pour plus d’informations, contactez aux Seychelles Faye Roby au +248 346 000 et en France la société Ter Cognita Jean-Philippe Aubert ou Sandra Colas au +33 (0)1 48 25 93 33 ou visitez notre site internet www.edenisland.sc.

L’île aux CerfsCette île luxuriante se situe à 15 minutes de Mahé par bateau. Sa côte nord s’étend le long du Parc Marin National de Ste Anne; elle est bordée d’un superbe récif de corail, et est donc un endroit idéal pour la plongée sous-marine. L’intérieur de l’île est le domicile de tortues et de roussettes (chauve-souris) géantes. Les restaurants y servent une excellente cuisine créole.

CerfThis lush island is 15 minutes by boat from Mahé. Its north coast, which lies at the edge of the marine park, has a superb coral reef, ideal for snorkelling or scuba-diving. The interior is home to giant tortoises and flying foxes. Restaurants serve excellent Créole food.

Page 24: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 25: sil22no2

24 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

CousinCousin Island, has been a nature reserve since 1968, when it was bought by the Royal Society for Nature Conservation and held in trust for the International Council for Bird Preservation as a haven for all types of birds including endangered species. It is a place of pilgrimage for dedicated ornithologists: there they can find the Seychelles warbler, Seychelles magpie-robin and Seychelles fody, which are found elsewhere only on a handful of rat-free islands. Madagascar turtle doves (possibly including the endemic form with the red head) and Seychelles sunbirds are also present. Seabirds abound on Cousin, with more than 250,000 birds coming to nest every year. These are brown noddies, lesser noddies, wedge-tailed shearwaters, Audubon’s shearwaters,

Round Island PraslinRound Island Praslin lies just a short distance off Baie Ste Anne, Praslin. There is one beautiful sandy cove facing towards the main island with a beach bar and restaurant. The smallest resort in the Indian Ocean merges with the forest and the hillside, comprising just one large main house and three villas. A board walk skirts the edge of the hill and climbs to the summit where there is a spectacular view of the islands.

CousinCousin est une réserve naturelle depuis 1968, date à laquelle cette île fut achetée par la Royal Society for Nature Conservation pour le compte du et le Conseil International pour la Protection des Oiseaux qui en fît un refuge pour oiseaux de toutes espèces mais particulièrement pour les espèces menacées d’extinction. Ces dernières étant particulièrement rares, Cousin est devenu un lieu de pèlerinage pour ornithologues. Ils trouvent là la Rousserole des Seychelles, le Fody (Tok-Tok en Créole) des Seychelles et la Pie chanteuse des Seychelles, espèces survivant seulement sur quelques îles sans rats. Des Tourterelles de Madagascar (dont la forme endémique des Seychelles à tête rouge) et des Souimangas des Seychelles s’y trouvent également. Les oiseaux marins y sont quant-à-eux très nombreux, avec plus de 250,000 d’entre eux qui viennent y nicher chaque année. Il y a là des Noddis bruns, des Noddis à bec grêle, des Puffins du Pacifique et des Puffins d’Audubon, des Sternes bridées, ainsi que des Sternes Blanches,

Ronde de PraslinRonde de Praslin est une île située non loin de Baie Sainte Anne. On y trouve une belle anse sableuse faisant face à Praslin avec un bar de plage et un restaurant. Avec une grande maison principale et trois villas, bien intégrées avec la forêt et la colline, c’est probablement le plus petit établissement hôtelier de l’Oocéan indien,. Un sentier longe le bord de la colline et grimpe vers le sommet qui offre une vue spectaculaire sur ldes autres îles.

bridled terns, as well as fairy terns, one of the symbols of Seychelles, seen on the livery of Air Seychelles. There are also interesting geckos, giant tortoises introduced from Aldabra, and hawksbill turtles which lay their eggs above the tideline of the beach. The reserve is open on certain days. Check with your hotel or tour operator.

The Seychelles government declared Cousin a Special Reserve in 1975. It is managed by Nature Seychelles. Visitors may not have picnics or collect shells. Even smoking is forbidden. A popular day trip leaves Praslin around 0900 hours from Maison des Palmes, taking in Curieuse as well, with time for a barbecue there, and later some snorkelling at St Pierre, arriving back at Praslin at around 1600 hours.

un des symboles des Seychelles qui fut incorporé dans le logotype d’Air Seychelles.

On y trouve également beaucoup de reptiles intéressants, tels que des geckos, des tortues géantes qui furent importées de l’île d’Aldabra, et des tortues marines qui viennent pondre sur les plages, au-dessus de la ligne de marée haute. La réserve n’est pas ouverte au public tous les jours; il est donc prudent de s’informer auprès de votre hôtel ou tour opérateur avant d’y projeter une visite. En 1975, le gouvernement Seychellois classa Cousin «Réserve Spéciale». L’île éstt aujourd’hui gérée par Nature Seychelles, représentant local de BirdLife International. Le ramassage des coquillages et les pique-niques sont interdits à Cousin et les visiteurs ne sont pas non plus autorisés à fumer. Une excursion intéressante part le matin de Praslin vers 09h00, visite ensuite Curieuse, où est organisé un barbecue sur la plage, avant de reprendre la mer pour St Pierre pour un P.M.T. et de rentrer ensuite à Praslin vers 16h00.

Page 26: sil22no2

25DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS DISCOVER SEYCHELLES LES îLES

PraslinThe second-largest granite island of Seychelles is Praslin, about 40 kilometres from Mahé. It is 15 minutes by Air Seychelles service, which offers many scheduled flights a day. By boat, it takes about one hour with the powerful catamarans that make 3 to 4 round trips rotations per day. The island has a population of about 7,000. There are several excellent hotels, including the Lemuria Resort and Château de Feuilles. Praslin is not as mountainous as Mahé – the highest point being 330 metres – but it has similarly great granite outcrops surrounded by beautiful beaches, and a coral reef enclosing the crystal-clear waters which are so typical of Seychelles.

The majestic bays and beaches alternate with smaller ones on which, even in the busy season, you could believe you were the only person on the island.

Anse Volbert, or Côte d’Or, to the east of the island, is particularly beautiful, with its pure white sand. Hotels such as Berjaya Praslin Beach offer a wide variety of watersports facilities.

Fantastic granite masses form striking backgrounds to the beaches of Anse Bois de Rose, Anse Boudin and Anse Kerlan, where the five-star Lemuria Resort has an 18-hole championship golf course. At the northernmost tip of the island, Anse Lazio is excellent for both swimming and snorkelling. Grand Anse, on the west coast, has an equally beautiful beach for lazing about, but the waters are sometimes heavy with seaweed and, because it is very shallow over the coral, swimming is difficult at low tide.

Baie Pasquière and Anse Volbert to the north and Baie St Anne to the south have natural harbours which are best appreciated if you opt to make your trip from Mahé to Praslin by boat; the view as you sail in is striking. In Baie St Anne, you will see Baie St Anne village, where there is a bank, shops and a church, same as at Grande Anse village on the opposite side of the island.

One of the eternal symbols of Seychelles, the huge coco de mer nut, grows in the Vallée de Mai forest of Praslin, also home to one of the world’s rarest birds, the black parrot. The Vallée, a World Heritage Site, is open from 0830 to 1630 hours and the entrance can be found on the road from Grand Anse to Baie St Anne. This area is heavily protected and is being allowed to return to its natural state following ill-founded attempts to introduce non-native plants there in the 1930s and 1940s.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked, and a nature trail leads you to all the interesting botanical species. You can find leaflets and information at the entrance of the reserve, managed by the

Praslin

Située à 40 kilomètres à l’Est de Mahé, Praslin est la deuxième plus grande île des Seychelles. Elle a une population d’environ 7,000 habitants. Les deux îles sont reliées par un service régulier d’Air Seychelles qui assure beaucoup de une quinzaine devols journaliers d’une durée de 15 minutes chacun. Le trajet par bateau (trois ou quatre aller-retours par jour) dure environ une heure .

Plusieurs hôtels de grande qualité sont installés à Praslin, parmi lesquels le Lémuria et le Château de Feuilles.

Le relief de Praslin, dont le sommet le plus haut n’atteint que 427 mètres, n’est pas aussi accidenté que celui de Mahé mais il comporte des formations granitiques semblables, entourées de plages merveilleuses et d’une barrière de corail aux eaux cristallines qui font la gloire des Seychelles.

Baies et plages majestueuses alternent avec de plus petites baies dans lesquelles, même en pleine saison touristique, on a l’impression d’être seul.

L’Anse Volbert, ou Côte d’or, sur la côte est, est particulièrement belle avec ses plages d’une blancheur éclatante. Les hôtels, tels que le Berjaya Praslin Beach offrent une grande variété de sports nautiques.

Des masses granitiques spectaculaires forment un arrière-plan qui contraste avec les plages de l’Anse Bois de Rose, l’Anse Boudin et l’Anse Kerlan où se trouve le nouvel Hôtel cinq étoiles Lémuria. Un golf de 18 trous y a également été construit. Au point le plus septentrional de l’île se trouve Anse Lazio, une magnifique plage excellente pour la baignade et le P.M.T. Sur la côte ouest, la plage de Grand Anse est parfaite pour les bains de soleil matinaux; cependant, la baignade y est difficile à marée basse en raison d’une eau peu profonde au-dessus des bancs de corail, parfois recouverts d’algues jusqu’au bord du rivage.

La Baie Pasquière et l’Anse Volbert au Nord, et la Baie Ste Anne au sud sont des ports naturels qui offrent un spectacle pittoresque à ceux qui ont opté pour la traversée en bateau depuis Mahé. On peut apercevoir de cette baie le village principal avec son monument au coco de mer, la banque, les kiosques et l’église. Banques, boutiques et église sont aussi présentes à Grand Anse Village, de l’autre coté de l’île. Le coco de mer (vulgairement appelé Coco-fesses) est le symbole éternel des Seychelles. Il croît dans les forêts de la Vallée de Mai, à Praslin, où niche l’un des oiseaux les plus rares au monde: le Perroquet noir des Seychelles.

Cette vallée, qui fait partie du Patrimoine Mondialde l’humanité, est ouverte de 8h30 à 16h30 aux visiteurs qui peuvent la traverser en voiture sur la seule route goudronnée de l’île. C’est un site protégé que l’on espère voir retourner à son état primitif, malheureusement bouleversé dans les années trente et quarante par des

Seychelles Islands Foundation. To walk through the Vallée is to step back in time into a primeval forest, canopied by thick palm fronds that block out the sun. The silence is broken only by the call of the black parrot and the clatter of huge sturdy leaves as the wind blows through the trees.

In streams, freshwater crayfish and crabs can be seen, and the plants around you include the coco de mer, bois rouge, ferns, lataniers, coco marron, screwpines and orchids, all growing around the granite mass. Fruit bats, blue pigeons, bulbuls, lizards, geckos, chameleons, snails and insects can also be observed in the Vallée de Mai. Praslin is perfect to explore on foot and is covered by a network of walkways. There is no danger of getting lost as the island is so small that one needs only an hour or less to cross it width wise.

There is only a limited number of cars for hire, so if you wish to drive it is wise to book ahead, particularly during the busy seasons from December to January and July to August. Petrol stations can be found at Grand Anse and Baie St Anne. There are taxi ranks at the airport. Taxis can be called by telephone from most hotels and the airport (tel: 284666). Fares increase slightly at night.

A bus service runs between 0530 and 1900 hours, with a special Sunday service. You can also take a bus that passes the Vallée de Mai entrance. For souvenir shopping, there are boutiques in all the main hotels. Barclays Bank is at Baie St Anne (tel: 232218), with a branch at Grande Anse open Mondays to Fridays from 0830 to1230 hours.

There are regular boat excursions to smaller islands such as St Pierre, a tiny rock island that is popular for its rich coral reef. The area is particularly favourable for underwater photography. You can organise a boat from Praslin to take you out in the morning and pick you up again in the evening. Coco is also another attractive destination for tourists; it is a deserted tiny island of rocks and boulders with a few palm trees and an exceptional marine life.

There are good restaurants on Praslin if you wish to have a meal away from your hotel.

tentatives mal fondées d’y introduire des plantes exotiques.

Les sentiers, qui serpentent à travers une nature bien fournie en espèces botaniques intéressantes, sont régulièrement entretenus et clairement indiqués. Une brochure est mise à la disposition du public à l’entrée de la réserve, gérée par la Fondation des Iles Seychelles.

Se promener dans cette vallée équivaut à remonter le temps dans un décor de forêt vierge au toit formé d’épaisses feuilles de palmier qui empêchent le soleil de pénétrer. Le silence est y impressionnant, interrompu seulement par les cris du Perroquet noir et le bruissement des palmes agitées par le vent. Ecrevisses et crabes d’eau douce vivent paisiblement dans tous les ruisseaux, et parmi les plantes environnantes figurent Cocos-de-mer, fougères, lataniers, Bois rouge, vacoas, Cocos marrons et orchidées, qui poussent entre les masses de granit. Roussettes, Pigeons bleus, bulbuls, lézards, geckos, caméléons, escargots et insectes divers peuvent aussi être observés dans la Vallée de Mai.

L’île de Praslin se prête parfaitement à l’exploration pédestre avec un réseau de sentiers et de chemins agréables. Pas de crainte de se perdre car l’île est si petite qu’il faut moins d’une heure pour la traverser dans sa largeur. Mais si vous préférez vous déplacer en voiture, il vaut mieux faire des réservations à l’avance car le nombre de véhicules de location est limité, surtout pendant les hautes saisons de décembre-janvier et de juillet-août. Les deux stations-service se trouvent à Grand Anse et à Baie Ste Anne. Il existe une station de taxis en face de l’aéroport. Ceux-ci peuvent être appelés par téléphone depuis l’aéroport (tel: 284666) ou depuis les différents hôtels de l’île.

Le prix des courses est légèrement majoré la nuit. Il existe aussi un service de bus entre 5h30 et 19h00 sur les quatre routes principales avec service spécial le dimanche. On peut ainsi se rendre à la Vallée de mai en bus.

Vous trouverez des souvenirs dans toutes les boutiques d’hôtels. La banque Barclays est à Baie Ste Anne (tel: 232218) avec une succursale à Grand Anse, ouverte du lundi au vendredi, de 8h30 à 12h30.

Des excursions partent régulièrement par bateau de Praslin à destination des petites îles avoisinantes, telles que St Pierre, un îlot rocheux très connu pour sa barrière de corail fourmillant d’une vie marine multicolore. Il est possible de s’arranger pour qu’une embarcation vous dépose le matin avec un panier pique-nique, et vienne vous rechercher le soir. L’Ile Coco est une autre destination très prisée des touristes; il s’agit d’une petite île déserte et rocheuse sur laquelle poussent quelques palmiers, et où la vie sous-marine est exceptionnelle. Les amateurs de photos sous-marines y trouveront un cadre idéal.

Plusieurs restaurants permettent de déjeuner ou de dîner hors de l’hôtel.

Page 27: sil22no2

26 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

CurieuseLying about two kilometres (one mile) to the north-east of Praslin, this island of about three kilometres (two miles) long was first given the name Ile Rouge on account of its red earth. As part of the Marine Park the island is strictly protected and only a few families live there. Like Praslin, Curieuse is home to the Coco-de-mer palm. The island has a wild population of about 250 giant tortoises, brought over from Aldabra in the 1980s and a breeding scheme has been in place there for several years. Curieuse was once a leper colony, and the ruins of the houses can still be seen. There is also a large, restored colonial villa, known as the Doctor’s House, where the island doctor lived in the 1870s. Nature trails wind their way across the island, notably through the extensive swamps, home to eight different species of mangrove. Excursions to Curieuse normally include a barbecue and often a visit to Cousin island as well.

CurieuseSituée à un kilomètre au Nord-Est de Praslin, cette île de moins de trois kilomètres de long présente des coteaux dénudés couverts de la terre rouge qui avait donné à l’île son nom d’origine, Ile Rouge. Partie intégrale du Parc marin de Curieuse, l’île est strictement protégée. Comme Praslin, Curieuse abrite des boisements de Coco-de-mer. Peuplée seulement de quelques familles, cette île est le domaine de près de 250 tortues géantes importées d’Aldabra dans les années 1980. Non loin des ruines d’une ancienne léproserie s’élève une vieille villa coloniale, la maison du Docteur qui servait de résidence au médecin lors de ses visites aux malades. Un sentier à travers bois permet au visiteur d’admirer les huit différentes sortes de palétuviers qui poussent sur l’île. Les excursions à Curieuse incluent souvent une halte sur la plage pour permettre aux visiteurs de déguster une grillade.

Cousine IslandCousine is no ordinary resort. Guests arrive by helicopter and are accommodated in just four villas to minimise the human impact on the island. There are very few islands anywhere in the world that have survived intact as Cousine has done, with such a profusion of wildlife and almost none where it is possible to stay overnight and soak up the atmosphere. There may be a small resort here but unquestionably, the island still belongs to nature. A systematic rehabilitation programme to restore the island includes the planting of thousands of native trees, the protection of the huge seabird colonies and the reintroduction of endemic birds.

Cousine IslandCousine n’est pas un établissement hôtelier ordinaire. Les visiteurs y parviennent par hélicoptère et sont hébergés dans seulement quatre villas afin de minimiser l’impact de l’homme sur l’île. Il y a peu d’îles dans le monde qui sont demeurées aussi intactes que Cousine, avec une telle profusion de vie sauvage, et presque aucune où il est possible de passer la nuit et de s’imprégner de la sorte de l’atmosphère ambiante. Même s’il y a un petit établissement hôtelier, il est indéniable que l’île appartient à la nature. Un programme visant à restaurer l’île comprend la plantation de milliers d’arbres indigènes, la protection des importantes colonies d’oiseaux marins et la réintroduction d’espèces d’oiseaux endémiques.

Bird IslandA 30 minutes flight from Mahé by light aircraft gives the first stunning impressions of this 69 hectares (170 acres) coral cay. Bird Island is the most northerly island of the Seychelles Archipelago and is a nature lover’s paradise. Bird Island has just one hotel which offers guests a choice of 24 comfortable and spacious bungalows. A true haven from today’s busy world, there are no telephones or televisions and the emphasis is very much on relaxation and being at one with the nature around you. The east and south sides of the island are surrounded by a protective barrier reef which is home to many varieties of colourful fish and the rest is an open beach which offers superb safe swimming. Situated on the northern edge of the Seychelles Plateau, where the sea floor drops 2,000 metres, the island offers some of the best game

Bird IslandDepuis Mahé, un vol de 30 minutes vous donnera les premières impressions de cet atoll corallien de 70 hectares.  Bird Island est l’île la plus septentrionalede l’Archipel des Seychelles et un paradis pour les amoureux de la nature.  L’unique hôtel offre à ses hôtes le choix de 24 bungalows confortables et spacieux, une authentique retraite dans le monde actuel si bousculé - ni TV, ni telephone - ou l’accent est mis sur la relaxation et la communion avec la nature environnante.  Les côtes Est et Sud de l’île sont protégés par une barrière de corail, refuge de nombreuses variétés de poissons multicolores.  Le reste est une plage immense où la baignade est superbe et sûre.  Proche de l’extrémité Nord du plateau sous-marin des

fishing in the country. During the North West monsoon (October to April), dolphins are regularly observed in the surrounding waters. This is also the best time to witness the magical sight of Hawksbill turtles nesting, and from December onwards the tiny hatchlings can be seen emerging and embarking on their journey down to the sea. The South East Monsoon (May to September) also offers an amazing avian spectacle. With over 750,000 pairs of Sooty Terns coming to the northern end of the island to breed, and a resident population of Noddy and Fairy Terns, the island is an ornithologists dream. Bird Island is also home to Guinness World Record holder Esmeralda, said to be the largest free ranging tortoise in the world and estimated to be over 230 years old.

Seychelles, là où les fonds atteignent 2000m, l’île présente une situation exceptionnelle pour les amateurs de pêche.  D’octobre à avril, les dauphins s’y observent régulièrement - c’est aussi la meilleure période pour voir pondre les tortues marines et dès décembre assister a l’éclosion des oeufs et la ruée des petits vers la mer.  De mai à septembre; vous pouvez admirer un étonnant ballet aérien -  plus de 750,000 couples de Sternes Fuligineuses colonisent la partie Nord de l’île pour s’y reproduire.  Avec la population sédentaire de Noddies et de Sternes Blanches, c’est le rêve pour tout ami des oiseaux.  C’est aussi à Bird Island que vit Esmeralda, inscrite au Guiness Book pour être, à 230 ans, la plus grosse tortue terrestre en liberté.

Page 28: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Cousine Island is an exclusive 5-star nature sanctuary covering 25 hectares of land with 100% commitment to the conservation

of the environment. This commitment has just been internationally recognized by the tourism trade: Cousine Island was awarded

the World’s Leading Green Destination for 2010 by World Travel Awards in November 2010.

In the effort to balance nature and development, Cousine Island offers 4 luxurious French Colonial-style villas with private

pools. The villas are nestled within the lush vegetation and positioned on the beach with spectacular Indian Ocean views.

Each Villa has a floor space of 175m² which allows for spacious and tastefully decorated rooms fitted with comfortable

furnishings and appliances.

The Island also consists of established colonies of Seychelles endemic birds; home to more than 7 species of endemic land

birds and 9 species of endemic seabirds. Thousands of migratory birds consider Cousine as their home during 6 months of the

year. Hawksbill Turtles also come ashore to nest and Green Turtles, rare to the Seychelles, nest occasionally throughout the

year. Visitors can experience firsthand these phenomenal and life transforming processes.

Page 29: sil22no2
Page 30: sil22no2
Page 31: sil22no2

30 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

La DigueThis is the third largest granite island in Seychelles in terms of population, housing about 2,500 people. It is a half-hour trip from Praslin, or three hours by schooner from Mahé. However, visitors with a tight schedule may prefer to take the 20-minute flight with Helicopter Seychelles (tel: 385858).

The pace of life is slow, about the same speed as its traditional way of transport – the ox cart. Very few cars are allowed on the island and bicycles are popular. They can be hired from various bicycle rentals at Anse Réunion or La Passe harbour on arrival. At l’Union a fine old traditional planter’s house has been carefully restored. It used to be the centre of a vanilla plantation of which the treatment factory can still be seen. Further inland, Château Saint Cloud, built under Napoleon’s regime, is another impressive restored plantation house. On the agricultural estate, you can see furnace-dried coconuts, or copra, being turned into oil. Also of historical interest, at Pointe Cap Barbi, there are graves of early colonists from Bourbon Island (today’s Réunion). The old cemetery at l’Union is also an attraction. La Digue is noted for its superb beaches, and snorkelling (particularly in front of La Digue Island Lodge).

There are more spectacular granite formations which have been shaped by wind and sea over millions of years. Eagle’s Nest Mountain rises dramatically to 300 metres, taking up most of the island. Beaches at Pointe Cap Barbi have, like so many other beaches, a dramatic granite backdrop. The remote beaches at Grande Anse, Petite Anse and Anse Cocos with pink-tinged sand are beautiful, but beware of dangerous undercurrents.

Most parts of the island can be reached in under an hour. Among the birds you will encounter is the unique Seychelles paradise Flycatcher, one of the rarest birds in the world (less than 300 birds), the symbol of this island. In the distance, Praslin can be seen, completing a pattern of islands.

Ile Denis3°48’ Sud - 55°40’ Est, une perle corallienne au nord de Mahé. Bercée par le flot des vagues, Denis Island trône sereinement au bord des grandes profondeurs de l’Océan Indien. Havre de paix et de sérénité, « l’Ile des gens heureux » découverte par Denis de Trobiant en 1773 à bord de son bateau l’Etoile, semble n’avoir jamais cédé à l’empreinte de l’homme. Protégées par une longue barrière de corail, l’île de 143 hectares et sa plage de sable blanc bordent un extraordinaire lagon bleu turquoise où se côtoient d’infinies variétés de poissons, coquillages, coraux, tortues… Sur terre, la nature préservée et exubérante laisse échapper une symphonie douce et mélodieuse d’oiseaux marins, que seul peut interrompre le mouvement saccadé des crabes ou celui plus langoureux des tortues géantes.

Depuis plusieurs années, un important programme de conservation mobilise les énergies. Sur 50 hectares de forêt, des scientifiques travaillent à la réhabilitation de l’habitat originel afin d’introduire des espèces menacées d’oiseaux endémiques à l’archipel. Un pari sur le futur qui renforce chaque jour le caractère unique de l’Ile. Enfin, au fil des sentiers, Denis Island dévoile progressivement ses richesses, un vieux cimetière marin, son phare, sa chapelle œcuménique, sa ferme, ses projets de développement de tourisme durable.…

Familiale, romantique et amicale, Denis Island est avant tout une expérience unique, une symphonie harmonieuse entre luxe, calme et volupté.  L’hôtel s’étend sur la pointe nord-ouest de l’île, les 25 villas et cottages sont dispersés le long de la plage.

DenisDiscovered in 1773, this croissant shaped coral hideaway of 152 hectares (375 acres) is a small green jewel perched on the north easterly edge of the Seychelles bank, idyllic white beaches surround the island; its sheltered lagoon provides unrivalled swimming opportunities and the crystal-clear waters harbour turtles and exotic marine life, the house reef is perfect for snorkelling. The deep waters outside the reef allow for excellent diving, game, bottom and fly fishing.

Denis is undertaking unprecedented conservation and sustainable development projects. Over 50 hectares of woodland have been rehabilitated and the dense forested interior is a haven for the recently introduced endemic endangered avian species such as the Seychelles Fody, the brush warbler, the Seychelles magpie robin and most recently the Paradise Fly-Catcher previously only found on La Digue. Other endemic species such as Seychelles blue pigeon abound. The island’s vegetable and livestock farm and surrounding seas supply the hotel’s kitchen’s requirements.

The island is accessible by a 30-minute flight. Twenty-five tasteful, elegant and secluded cottages each with its own private beachfront provide comfort and laid-back luxury.

La DigueLa Digue, avec une population de 2,500 habitants, est la quatrième île des Seychelles par sa taille. La traversée depuis Praslin se fait en une demi-heure, et celle depuis Mahé en trois heures. Les visiteurs ayant un emploi du temps serré préfèreront s’y rendre par le vol de 20 minutes d’Helicopter Seychelles (tel: 385858). Le rythme de vie ici est aussi lent que le moyen de transport traditionnel: le char à bœufs. Très peu de voitures sont autorisées sur l’île, par conséquent les vélos ont beaucoup de succès, et peuvent se louer à Anse Réunion ou au débarcadère du port de La Passe.

Une belle maison traditionnelle de planteurs a été restaurée à l’Union, celle-çi a servi au tournage du film ‘Emmanuelle aux Seychelles’. Elle est située au centre d’une plantation de vanille dont on peut visiter l’usine de traitement. L’usine d’huile de copra (noix de coco séchées) peut être aussi visitée sur ce domaine. Plus à l’intérieur, se trouve l’impressionnant Château St Cloud, une autre maison de planteur qui fût construite au temps des conquêtes napoléoniennes. Les tombes des premiers colons venus de l’Ile Bourbon (aujourd’hui l’Ile de la Réunion) s’élèvent au nord de l’île, à la Pointe Cap Barbi, ainsi qu’au vieux cimetière à l’Union.

La Digue est renommée pour ses plages superbes et ses sites spectaculaires pour le P.M.T (snorkelling) et la plongée sous-marine (en particulier en face de La Digue Island Lodge). On peut y admirer les formations granitiques sculptées par le vent et la mer au cours de millions d’années.

La montagne dite Nid d’Aigle s’élève à 300 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer et occupe une grande partie de l’île. A Pointe Cap Barbi les plages sont, comme dans beaucoup d’autres endroits, entourées d’un merveilleux décor de granit. Les plages les plus isolées de Grande Anse, Petite Anse et d‘Anse Coco sont d’une très grande beauté avec leur sable aux reflets rosés. Mais gare aux dangereux courants!

Il est possible d’atteindre n’importe quel point de l’île en moins d’une heure. Parmi les oiseaux que vous rencontrerez figure le Gobemouche de paradis, appelé localement ‘La Veuve’, une des espèces les plus rares de la planète (moins de 300 oiseaux) qui n’existe qu’à La Digue, et dont elle est le symbole.

Page 32: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 33: sil22no2

32 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

FrégateThis, the most isolated of the granite islands, is only 12 minutes from Mahé by Air Seychelles. Of all the islands, it has the most romantic associations with the world of pirates and hidden treasure. Some relics on the island suggest that it was a refuge for pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries. Ian Fleming, who created James Bond, was persuaded from ancient maps he discovered here, that a treasure was hidden somewhere on the island.

More obvious treasures are the abundant flora and fauna. Frégate is the stronghold of the critically endangered Seychelles magpie-robin (less than 200 birds in the world), saved from extinction by the intervention of BirdLife International. Recently the Ministry of Environment established successfully on Frégate another highly threatened endemic bird, the Seychelles white-eye (500 individuals in the world). The island boasts the world’s only population of giant tenebrionid beetle, as well as numerous giant tortoises. Despite the abundance of exotic vegetation and planted coconut palms, tens of thousands of native trees have been propagated and replanted since 1995, totaling several dozens of hectares restored. There are superb beaches, such as Anse Victorin, which some say is the prettiest in Seychelles. It is also a walker’s paradise, with wooded paths leading through plantations and groves. With the five-star Frégate Island Private Resort, the island is a holiday preserve for guests.

ArideThis is the most northerly island of the granitic Seychelles. It was bought by the Royal Society for Nature Conservation in 1973 and today is owned and managed by the Island Conservation Society. It is second only to Aldabra in importance as a nature reserve in Seychelles. On Aride there are more breeding species of sea birds than on any other island in the region, together with the only breeding sites in the granitic islands for red-tailed tropicbirds, roseate terns and the world’s only sooty tern colony in tall woodland.

The island’s warden will guide you to the breathtaking clifftops, where hundreds of huge frigatebirds soar above the turquoise sea. If you are lucky, you will glimpse hawksbill turtles and dolphins in the waters below. Seychelles warblers, 29 of which were introduced from Cousin in September 1988, have multiplied to more than 2,000.

Aride is also a botanical treasure house, being the world’s only site for the beautiful Wright’s Gardenia, or bwa sitron, and a species of ‘peponium’ that might also be endemic to the island. Visits can be arranged from most Praslin hotels, but landings can sometimes be difficult during the south-east monsoon.

The world’s largest colony of lesser noddies and tropical shearwaters further enhance Aride’s reputation as the seabird citadel of the Indian Ocean. Aride is also home to five endemic land birds including the Seychelles magpie-robin, Seychelles warbler and Seychelles fody, each found only on a few other islands.

ArideAride, la plus septentrionale des îles granitiques seychelloises, fut achetée en 1973 par la Royal Society for Nature Conservation et appartient aujourd’hui à la Fondation pour la Conservation de Iles (Island Conservation Society) qui la gère. Elle constitue la deuxième réserve naturelle la plus importante du pays après Aldabra. Il y a plus d’espèces d’oiseaux marins qui se reproduisent sur Aride que sur n’importe quelle autre île de la région. Outre toutes les espèces qu’on trouve sur Cousin, Aride héberge les seuls sites de reproduction des îles granitiques du Paille-en-queue à brins rouges et de la Sterne de Dougall, ainsi que la seule colonie au monde de sternes fuligineuses sous une forêt.

Là, un gardien-guide vous emmènera au bord des falaises époustouflantes d’où l’on peut voir des centaines d’immenses frégates planant au-dessus d’une mer bleu turquoise. Avec un peu de chance, il est possible d’apercevoir les tortues marines et les dauphins qui vivent dans les eaux environnantes. Les 29 Rousserolles des Seychelles qui furent importées de Cousin en septembre 1988 se sont reproduites et leur nombre a déjà dépassé deux milliers. La réputation de citadelle des oiseaux marins de l’océan indien que possède Aride est attestée par la présence de la plus grande colonie au monde de Noddis marianne, et peut-être de Puffins d’Audubon.

Aride est aussi un trésor sur le plan botanique, et le seul endroit au monde où poussent les magnifiques Gardénias de Wright, ou ‘Bois citron’, ainsi qu’une espèce de concombre sauvage qui pourrait être elle aussi endémique de cette île.

Aride abrite les plus grandes colonies du monde de Noddis Marianne et de Puffins de Baillon, ce qui renforce sa renommée de bastion des oiseaux marins de l’océan indien. Aride accueille aussi cinq espèces d’oiseaux terrestres endémiques dont la pie chanteuse ou dyal, la Rousserolle et le Foudi des Seychelles, qui n’existent que sur une poignée d’îles.

FrégateFrégate, la plus isolée des îles granitiques est à 12 minutes de Mahé par un vol Air Seychelles. De toutes les îles, c’est celle qui est le plus souvent associée au monde des pirates et des trésors cachés au cours des dix-septième et dix-huitième siècles. Ian Fleming, le créateur de James Bond, était convaincu, au vu d’anciennes cartes qu’il avait découvertes ici, que l’île cachait un trésor quelque part.

Mais les trésors visibles à l’œil nu sont la flore et la faune de l’île. Frégate est le bastion du Dyal ou Pie chanteuse des Seychelles (environ 200 individus dans le monde), qui après avoir frôlé l’extinction se multiplie grâce aux efforts de BirdLife International. Récemment, le ministère de l’Environnement y a implanté avec succès une autre espèce gravement menacée, l’Oiseau-lunettes des Seychelles (environ 500 individus dans le monde). Frégate abrite également toute la population mondiale d’un scarabée ténébrionide endémique, et possède de nombreuses Tortues géantes à l’état sauvage. Malgré une abondante végétation exotique et la persistance d’une vaste cocoteraie, des dizaines de milliers d’arbres natives y ont été multipliés et replantés depuis 1995, totalisant plusieurs dizaines d’hectares restaurés. Il y a de superbes plages, comme Anse Victorin, considérée par certains comme la plus belle du pays. C’est aussi le paradis du promeneur, avec un réseau de sentiers traversant forêts, cultures et vergers. L’île est réservée depuis 1999 aux clients de Frégate Island Private, un luxueux hôtel 5 étoiles.

Page 34: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 35: sil22no2

34 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

DesrochesDesroches is the largest island of the Amirantes, 45 minutes by air from Mahé. Swimming is excellent, unlike most atolls where waters over the surrounding reef are very shallow. The beaches are also excellent. There is a hotel, where guests enjoy sailing, cycling, canoeing, windsurfing, snorkelling deep-sea fishing and diving. Desroches is famous for the Desroches Drop with its fantastic caves, which may be explored under the supervision of a PADI dive-master. There is also a small settlement, with its copra drier, oil press and lock up, a reminder of the old plantation days. Since 2009, a full time team of scientists and rangers from the Island Conservation Society is employed to monitor and protect the terrestrial and marine life.

SilhouetteFrom Beau Vallon Beach on Mahé the outline of Silhouette can be seen as the sun falls behind Mount Dauban. Despite being the third largest island of the granitics Seychelles by size, Silhouette has a tiny population. Labriz hotel at La Passe provides the only accommodation on the island. It is also possible to visit for the day and a few boat owners on Mahé offer excursions. Visitors arrive by sea or by helicopter, disembarking at La Passe. The headquarters of Nature Protection Trust of Seychelles, guardians of the island’s rich natural heritage, are also at La Passe.

Unlike its neighbours, the island is of volcanic origin and is named after an 18th century French dignitary. The famous privateer, Hodoul, once lived on Silhouette and it is generally believed that he buried treasure here.

There are no roads, so it is a place for walkers. For serious walkers, there are two paths through equatorial forests linking La Passe and Grande Barbe, and La Passe to Anse Mondon. It takes between half-a-day and a day to hike there and back. The island is very mountainous; Dauban is 780 metres high, much of it is covered with albizia trees, but higher up, there are many plants unique to Seychelles. There are many traditional Creole houses and an old plantation house, one of the finest in Seychelles. The Dauban family tomb, now listed as a national monument is in the grand classical manner, looking at odds with its surroundings.

There were mysterious graves at Anse Lascars that were later destroyed by the sea. Once believed to be evidence that these islands were already known to Arab traders, these graves have now been dated from the arrival of the first Europeans and their slaves. Day trips can be organised with private boats chartered from Beau Vallon (Mahé) or through Helicopter Seychelles.

SilhouetteAssis sur la plage de Beau Vallon à Mahé, on aperçoit l’Ile Silhouette, particulièrement évocatrice lorsque le soleil se couche derrière le Mont Dauban. Bien qu’il s’agisse de la troisième île des Seychelles granitiques de par sa taille, Silhouette n’a qu’une toute petite population. L’établissement Labriz à La Passe offre la seule possibilité d’hébergement hôtelier sur l’île. Il est également possible de faire une visite à la journée dans le cadre d’excursions proposées par quelques propriétaires de bateau à Mahé. Les visiteurs arrivent par mer ou par hélicoptère, et débarquent à La Passe. Le siège du Nature Protection Trust of Seychelles, gardiens du riche patrimoine biologique de l’île, se trouve également à La Passe.

Silhouette est une île plutôt montagneuse, faite pour les passionnés de marche. Il existe, pour ces amateurs de randonnées pédestres, deux passages qui traversent la forêt équatoriale, reliant La Passe et Grand Barbe, ainsi que La Passe à Anse Mondon. La promenade dure entre une demi-journée et une journée et il est préférable de se faire accompagner par un guide local.

Le Mont Dauban, dont les versants sont couverts d’Albizias, culmine à 780 mètres. Sur les hauteurs vivent des plantes endémiques, c’est-à-dire qu on ne trouve qu’aux Seychelles. Quelques maisons traditionnelles sont éparpillées sur l’île dont une des plus belles maisons de planteur des Seychelles, parfait exemple de l’architecture seychelloise. Le caveau familial de la famille Dauban, d’un style classique, contraste avec l’environnement tropical.

Il y avait des tombeaux à l’Anse Lascars mais ceux-ci ont depuis longtemps été emportés par la mer. Il fut un temps où l’on crut qu’ils témoignaient du fait que les Arabes connaissaient déjà ces îles, mais ces tombeaux ont été datés récemment de l’arrivée des Européens et de leurs esclaves. Il est possible d’organiser des excursions d’une journée avec des bateaux privés à partir de Beau Vallon (Mahé), ou par Helicopter Seychelles.

DesrochesDesroches est la plus grande île des Amirantes, à 45 minutes d’avion de Mahé. La baignade y est excellente, contrairement à la plupart des atolls où les eaux sont très peu profondes au-dessus des récifs ou du platier. Les plages sont également excellentes. Il y a un hôtel où les visiteurs peuvent profiter de la voile, du vélo, du canöé, de la planche à voile, du Palmes-Masque-Tuba, de la pêche en eau profonde, et de la plongée sous-marine. Desroches est célèbre pour son fameux ‘Mur tombant’ avec ses grottes fantastiques, qui peuvent être explorées sous la supervision d’un instructeur de plongée PADI. Il y a aussi un petit village, avec son four à copra, sa presse à huile, et son cachot, un souvenir de l’ancien temps lors de la plantation.

Depuis 2009, une équipe de scientifiques et de gardes de la Fondation pour la Conservation des Iles (Island Conservation Society) y est employée à plein temps pour assurer le suivi et la protection des espèces et des écosystèmes terrestres et marins.

Page 36: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 37: sil22no2

36 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Alphonse & St Francois Atoll

Alphonse is the most remote island with a hotel, 400 kilometres southwest of Mahé. Its attractions include some of the best diving in the Indian Ocean, with forests of Gorgonian fan corals, huge schools of pelagic fish and many colourful reef fish. Once a productive coconut plantation, little remains as a reminder of these days save for a few old buildings and the island’s cemetery near to Pointe Huto. Conservation is a high priority and a team of full time scientists and rangers from the Island Conservation Society are employed on rehabilitation and monitoring programmes

A short stretch of ocean, ominously named as Canal de Mort, separates Alphonse from picture perfect Bijoutier and the lagoon of St Francois, world famous for its fly-fishing, opportunities. A feature of St Francois is the number of shipwrecks, standing as grim reminders of the perils of the sea.

Les atolls d’Alphonse

et de St François

Située à 400km au sud-ouest de Mahé, Alphonse est l’île la plus éloignée avec un hôtel. On y trouve quelques-uns uns des meilleurs sites de plongée de l’océan indien, avec des forêts de Gorgones éventail géantes, d’immenses bancs de poissons pélagiques et beaucoup de poissons de récifs colorés. Jadis une plantation de cocotiers productive, peu de choses sont restées de ce temps révolu à l’exception de quelques vieux bâtiments et le cimetière de l’île près de la Pointe Huto. La conservation de la nature est une priorité et plusieurs scientifiques et gardes de la Fondation pour la Conservation des Iles (Island Conservation Society) y sont employés à plein temps sur des programmes de suivi et de réhabilitation de l’écosystème. Un bras de mer étroit, dont le nom (de mauvaise augure) est ‘Canal de Mort’ sépare Alphonse de l’îlot de carte postale Bijoutier, et du lagon de St François mondialement célèbre pour la pêche à la mouche. Une caractéristique de St François est le nombre d’épaves de bateaux naufragés, dressés comme des sinistres rappels des périls de la mer.

Page 38: sil22no2

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

Page 39: sil22no2

Sociétés offshoreQuelle est la définition de l’offshore?Offshore signifie littéralement « en s’éloignant » « vers le large ». Ce terme s’applique à plusieurs domaines. La société offshore est une entité juridique située dans un autre pays que celui où se déroule l’activité.

Quels sont les secteurs d’activité propices à l’offshore?L’offshore s’adresse à tous secteurs d’activité (finance, immobilier, licences, propriété intellectuelle etc.…) à la condition que l’activité présente un caractère international.

Que est l’intérêt de l’offshore pour vos clients?« Aller offshore » reste une stratégie d’entreprise. Il est souvent nécessaire de mettre en place des structures permettant d’alléger la pression fiscale.

Avec l’IBC (International Business Company), nous disposons d’un outil performant. Cette société règle uniquement 100$ de taxe quelque soit le montant du Chiffre d’affaires ou du bénéfice. Il est possible d’être seul actionnaire de la société, la comptabilité n’est pas à déposer et un compte bancaire peut être ouvert sous 48h dans la même juridiction ou ailleurs si le client le souhaite.

Cette société peut détenir des parts sociales, être propriétaire d’un bien ou d’un bateau.

Voilà une structure adéquate pour l’optimisation fiscale.

Comment considérez vous votre métier, International Corporate Service Provider?Notre activité ne consiste pas à seulement enregistrer des sociétés offshore, mais aussi à conseiller et accompagner nos clients afin qu’ils puissent optimiser leurs revenus.

Je dirais que notre métier se compare à celui de l’architecte, nous avons à notre disposition des outils fiscaux, des lois nationales et internationales, des conventions entre des pays.

Avec tous ces éléments nous devons réaliser la meilleure structure afin de pérenniser les avoirs de nos clients.

Depuis quand exercez-vous cette profession?Avocat au barreau français pendant 15 ans, j’ai créé en 1998 avec plu-sieurs professionnels (juridique et comptable) la société Côte d’Azur Mahe Registered Agents.

Nos clients retrouvent dans notre cabinet , les mêmes codes pro-fessionnels que dans un cabinet français, nous leur fournissons des conseils pointus vis-à-vis de la fiscalité française mais aussi europée-nne, nous nous efforçons de leur prodiguer un service de qualité et un suivi dans leurs affaires ,

Comment les Seychelles se situent par rapport à d’autres pays qui font de l’offshore?La juridiction des Seychelles n’a jamais été sur la liste noire des paradis fiscaux de l’ OCDE ou dans le rapport Levin-Coleman-Obama Stop Tax Haven Abuse ACT, ce qui est très rassurant pour les clients .

La SIBA (notre organisme de tutelle) contrôle régulièrement les cabinets en s’attachant aux différents problèmes de gouvernance, de fiabilité, de compétence, de déontologie et d’assurance professionnelle.

Offshore companiesWhat is the definition of Offshore?Offshore literally means “far away from”“to put to sea ”. This term is used in different ways.The offshore company is a corporate entity located in an-

other country than the country where the activities are taking place.

What are the sectors in which the offshore companies are most favorable in dealing with?Offshore is convenient for all sectors of activities (such as finance, real estate, license, intellectual property, etc…) subject to the condi-tion that it is an internationally based activity.

What is the client’s interest to go Offshore?‘Go Offshore’ is an enterprise strategy. It is usually important to use structures that enable us to lessen the pressure of taxation. With the IBC (International Business Company), we possess a useful tool. The company pay only 100$ of taxes whatever the amount of the turnover or the benefits. It is possible to be the sole shareholder of the company. Accountancy doesn’t have to be filed with the author-ity and a bank account can be opened within 48 hrs in the same jurisdiction or elsewhere if the client wishes to do so.

This company can hold some shares, own an immovable prop-erty or a boat. This is a suitable structure for tax planification.

How would you consider your profession as an International Corporate Service Provider?Our activities do not only consist of registering offshore companies, but also to advice and help our clients in order for them to be able to obtain the maximum out of their revenues. I would like to say that our profession doesn’t differ in comparison to that of an architect; we have at our disposition the tools of taxation, national and international laws, treaties between different countries.

With all those elements we can plan the best structure in order to obtain perennially of our clients.

Since when have you started practicing this profession?I have been a lawyer at the French Bar for 15 years now. I created in 1998 with many professionals (advisors and accountants) the com-pany presently named Cote D’Azur Mahe Registered Agents Ltd

Our clients can find in our office, the same professional ethic as in a French office, we provide them with some good and precise advices about the tax system in French as well as in English; we try hard to provide a good quality service and a close following of the affairs of our clients.

Where does the Seychelles stand in comparison to the other countries that also practice the offshore business? The jurisdiction in Seychelles has never been on the black list as tax havens of OECD or in the report of Levin-Coleman-Obama Stop Tax Haven Abuse ACT, which is very reassuring for the clients. The SIBA (our organization of guardianship) controls frequently the professional as they work side by side with the different government problems and regulations, reliability, competence, code of conduct and professional insurance liability.

BUSINESS IN SEYCHELLESDominique Guichard, CEO of CAMRA

Page 40: sil22no2

BUSINESS IN SEYCHELLES

Page 41: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •40

DestinationParis

Paris, City of Light, is one of the world’s most romantic destinations. Its list of famous sights fairly rolls off the tongue: the Eiffel Tower, Arc

de Triomphe, Montmartre and, of course, a more recent addition to the attractions, Disneyland.

What many visitors don’t know, though, is that it also has a secret side, with plenty of fascinating places to visit and things to see and do that aren’t listed in the average guide book.

Let’s start with Le Musée du Vin. France is a country that takes its wine oh-so-seriously so it is perhaps not too surprising to discover that there is a museum dedicated to the grape. Housed in the former cellars of 14th century Passy Abbey, the museum has displays showcasing the history and techniques involved in French winemaking. Up until the 14th century monks produced wine here and in those days the monastery was surrounded by gardens and terraces leading down to the river Seine. Several mineral water springs were also discovered between the middle of the 17th and 18th centuries, hence the name ‘Road of the Waters’ (rue des Eaux.) Where to find le Musée du Vin: 5/7 Square Charles Dickens, Rue des Eaux.

While in museum mode, Musée du Parfum (the Perfume Museum), run by the perfumerie Fragonard and located opposite the Palais Garnier, is a treat for the senses. It traces the history of scent and perfume-making from ancient Egypt – those mummies wouldn’t have smelled very nice unperfumed – to today’s designer brands. Learn how French perfumiers developed techniques for making fragrances from flowers, leaves, mosses, herbs and spices.

The nearest métro station is Passy.

A short distance to the south is the Théâtre-Musée des Capucines, a branch located in an early 20th-century theatre that concentrates largely on bottling, for example, in crystal flasks from Bohemia and packaging the heady substance. Where to find le Musee du Parfum: 9 rue Scribe.The nearest métro station is Opéra

In 1945 B, 29 Superfortress aircraft dropped their atomic cargoes on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan, instantly rendering the cities a mass of rubble. In Urakami, on Nagasaki’s outskirts, the largest Roman Catholic church in Japan was razed to the ground but among dust and death survivors found an unexpected

Phot

o by

Gill

y Pi

ckup

Secret Paris Gilly Pickup explores some of the lesser-known treasures of Paris.

Above: Canal Saint-Martin, Paris. It is now a popular destination for tourists, students and Parisians.

Page 42: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 41

ray of hope: a fragment of a sculptured angel had miraculously survived. Her torso had crumbled into dust, but her head and wings remained intact. Even her face was recognisable, although the

bomb’s blast had damaged one of her eyes, almost making her look as if she had been

crying. Known as the Nagasaki Angel, she is now nestled against a wall in the grounds of the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) building, at the top of the tranquil Japanese water garden, the Garden of Peace. A more poignant and powerful plea for Peace on Earth is difficult to imagine. Where to find the Nagasaki Angel: 7 Place de Fontenoy, 7th (near the Eiffel Tower).The nearest metro station is Champ de Mars

The Parc de Bercy is three connected gardens dating back to the 12th century when it was the

estate of a feudal lord. Later, during the reign of Louis XIV, the first wine warehouse opened here.

A spectacular rose garden, wide, sweeping lawns, lakes, tinkly fountains and even a small vineyard, make this a peaceful place to visit. For children there is a playground and carousel. The beauty of the park makes the bizarre architecture of the nearby Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy (Paris-Bercy Multipurpose Sports Arena) less of an eyesore. In order that the history of the place isn’t forgotten, there is an exhibition which tells the story of wine in Paris. Beyond is the Bercy Village, a chic shopping area with restaurants, bars and cafés most of which occupy old wine warehouses. Where to find the Parc de Bercy: in the 12th arrondissement .The nearest métro station is Bercy or

Cour Saint -Émilion.

If you like waxworks, you’ll love Grévin, one of Europe’s oldest wax museums. You can view around 300 celebrities here from Albert Einstein and Elton John, footballer Zidane and Pope John Paul 11, to Madonna and Barack Obama. Relive some pivotal moments in French history, such as Joan of Arc at the stake or the assassination of Henri IV and retrace many of the most important events of the 20th century, including man’s first steps on the moon and the fall of the Berlin wall. Its baroque architecture includes a mirrored mirage room which uses sound and light to dazzle visitors with unique optical illusions. Special attractions for youngsters include a discovery trail and story tellers. Where to find Grevin: 10 Boulevard Montmartre.

The nearest stations are Opéra, Chausette d’Antin

La Fayette and Grands Boulevards.

You’ll find a Statue of Liberty inside the mediaeval abbey church of St-Martin-des-Champs. Granted, it is smaller than the one in New York, though almost identical in appearance. The church is part of the Musée des Arts et Métiers, (museum of industrial sciences) and this scale model of the Statue of Liberty is 1/16 of the final version (about three metres (9.5 feet) , not including the pedestal). The museum commemorates the Statue of Liberty’s remarkable construction process with this scale model plus two small reproductions of the Paris foundry where she was created. There is also an impressive full-sized replica of her index finger. This Lady Liberty has two local sisters, one in Luxembourg Gardens and a quarter-sized version on the Ile des Cygnes. Where to find the Statue of Liberty: St Musée des Arts et Métiers: 292 Rue St-Martin.

Phot

o ©

Mar

c Be

tran

d

Above: Paris Wine Museum.

Right: The Parc de Bercy is three connected gardens dating back to the 12th century.

You’ll find a Statue

of Liberty inside the

mediaval abbey church

of St-Martin-des-

Champs. Granted, it is

smaller than the one in

New York

Phot

o co

urte

sy w

ww

.wik

imed

ia.c

om

Page 43: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •42

Stroll across footbridges over the Canal Saint-Martin, an area which abounds in greenery, cafés and offbeat shops. It was Napoleon who ordered the canal to be constructed in 1802, in order to create an artificial waterway to supply the city with fresh water and to help avoid diseases such as dysentery and cholera. On Sundays, two streets running parallel to the canal, Quai de Valmy and Quai de Jemmapes, are reserved for pedestrians and cyclists. This relaxed corner of North eastern Paris also appeared in films Amélie and Hôtel du Nord. Where to find Canal Saint Martin: between Republique and Gare du Nord.The nearest métro station is Republique

The Beekeeping School (Rucher Ecole) has been teaching Parisians about bees and beekeeping since 1856. Several of Paris’ newer parks including Parc Kellermann, Parc Georges Brassens and the Rucher de Levallois on the Ile de la Grande Jatte now have apiaries and growing numbers of Parisians are taking courses and installing beehives on their balconies and rooftops. You can even taste some of the honey which the Luxembourg school sells in the garden’s Orangerie in the autumn. Now there’s something different to buy as a souvenir! Where to find the Beekeeping School: Luxembourg Gardens.The nearest métro station is Luxembourg

In a small square near the top of Montmartre is one of the oddest sculptures anywhere. Le Passe-Muraille is actually a portion of a bronze sculpture – a man’s head, upper torso and right leg – mounted on a stone wall, looking as if he were emerging from the wall. That was the original intention, because this sculpture is a portrait of well-known Parisian writer Marcel Aymé, who lived nearby until his death in 1967. Aymé is portrayed here in the guise of one of his most beloved characters ‘Le Passe-Muraille’ (the Passer through Walls), the title of a short story he wrote in 1943. The story was made into a hit French musical renamed ‘Amour’ and also ran for a short time on Broadway. Where to find Le Passe-Muraille: Place Marcel-Aymé, corner of Allée des Brouillards and Rue Norvins.The nearest métro stations are Anvers and Abbesses,

Lamarck Caulaincourt and Château Rouge.

Vertical gardens are a hot trend in Parisian garden design. These walls of plants arranged like living tapestries provide green space without taking up square footage thanks to a sophisticated combination of botany, engineering, art and the ideas man himself, Patrick Blanc who copyrighted these murs végétaux. His ingenious works of art, planted without soil on a durable frame of PVC, metal and non-biodegradable felt, have a built-in pump watering system that allows them to thrive for years. They can be seen at the department store

Bhv Homme (36 rue de la Verrerie ), in the courtyard of the Hotel Pershing Hall (49 Rue Pierre Charron), the Club Med space on Champs Elysées (70 Rue Pierre Charron) and the Parking des Ternes (38 Avenue des Ternes). Other notable vertical gardens are: The Foundation Cartier (261 Boulevard Raspail) and the Musée du Quai Branly (55 Quai Branly).

Fraternise with locals at the St-Ouen flea market. Ignore the bustling stalls near the métro in favour of the buildings beyond the elevated highway, where antique dealers and vintage-clothing boutiques provide a real blast from the past. The Paul Bert and Serpette areas are packed with antiques and fabulous works of art. Where to find St-Ouen: Porte de Cignacourt.The nearest métro station is Garibaldi and Porte de

Clignancourt

And after all that, here are some less ordinary places to stop for a drink or a snack: Zero de Conduite is a bar that can take you back to your childhood with drinks served in baby’s bottles and, instead of peanuts, you’ll get sweets! Where to find Zero de Conduite: 14 rue Jacob. www.zerodeconduite.fr

You’ll be whisked back to the Middle Ages when you step inside the Taverne Medievale, complete with wandering mediaeval poets and costumed staff. Where to find La Taverne Medievale: 50 rue Raint-Sabin www.latavernemedievale.fr

In La Lucha libre bar there is a boxing ring in the basement. Pre registered opponents dress up in padded sumo wrestling outfits. Where to find La Lucha Libre: 10 rue de la Montagne Sainte-Genevieve, www.laluchalibre.fr $

Air Seychelles flies to Paris five times a week.

Above: Canal Saint-Martin, an area which abounds in greenery, cafes and offbeat shops.

Phot

o c

ourt

esy

ww

w.w

ikim

edia

.com

Zero de Conduite

is a bar that can

take you back to

your childhood

with drinks

served in baby’s

bottles

Page 44: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 43

Above: The cheetah – weak and injured – feeds ravenously from the rump.

Phot

os b

y D

avid

God

ny

Suddenly there is movement. Somewhere

beyond the shimmering heat haze in the

nearby dry river bed a lone male cheetah has

just brought down an adult ostrich nearly twice

his own body weight. Astride this unlikely prey the

cheetah is clinging to his struggling victim panting

furiously as his jaws grip tighter in a death clamp

to the head and neck that is slowly depriving this

desperately kicking bird of vital oxygen. Tentatively

relaxing his vice-like grip a disconcerting stillness

settles briefly as the big cat stares into the middle

distance. Suddenly the ostrich flinches and the

tension intensifies. Instinctively the exhausted

cheetah resumes his throat hold, this time for

longer, until stillness finally descends over the

parched, cracked riverbed. As he stands, tired and

panting furiously, black ostrich feathers flutter in

the hot breeze as the Kalahari sun beats down

from a cloudless sky. In typical cheetah fashion he

saunters around his kill and although limping badly

feeds ravenously from the rump whilst scanning the

DestinationSouth Africa

Only a day’s drive from Johannesburg and

at times resembling a biblical desert, the

last thing you expect to see in this huge arid

wilderness is wildlife in abundance. Philip Dickson and photographer David Godny flew

to South Africa to visit the first ‘peace park’

situated in the mythical Kalahari Desert.

Kalahari Desert

The

Where Big Cats Stalk Giant Birds horizon nervously for thieves and scavengers. This

is one meal the cheetah must consume quickly out

in the open. He is too weak and injured to drag his

much prized trophy into the cool welcoming shade of

the distant thorn trees.

The Kalahari’s Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is

an arid savannah situated in the north-west part

of South Africa and since 2000 this ‘borderless’

joint conservation area has been managed with

neighbouring Botswana. The South African side of

this rugged wildlife sanctuary is accessible via a good

tarred road from Uppington to Andriesvale, and then

a short dirt road takes you to the park gates. You can

fly or drive the 796 kilometres from Johannesburg to

Uppington and because the roads in the park have

well maintained gravel surfaces the Kgalagadi is an

ideal destination for independent travellers in a hired

vehicle.

Although unable to support the larger game

of the African savannahs like elephants, rhino and

buffalo, a profusion of mammal and avian carnivores,

Page 45: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •44

and their prey, coexist rather uneasily in this semi-

desert environment. Sparse vegetation along open

dry riverbeds sustains large concentrations of animals

and birdlife that have somehow adapted to these arid

conditions. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres the

Kalahari’s iconic shifting red sand dunes, contoured by

the far off winds from the cold Atlantic Ocean, seem

to roll and fade into infinity.

In winter the dunes are scattered sporadically with

large clumps of Tsama melons. These incongruous

desert melons provide a vital source of moisture

for Kalahari grazers and in desperate times the

bitter white flesh inside its thick green skin provides

something succulent to chew.

It is these conditions that make the Kgalagadi a

pilgrimage for wildlife enthusiasts and photographers

alike and although not as familiar as South Africa’s

much acclaimed Kruger National Park, at 3.8 million

hectares it is nearly twice its size but receives far

fewer visitors.

Like the wildlife, the main accommodation in

the park is concentrated around the perennially

dry fossilised river beds of the Nossob and Auob

comprising of three traditional rest camps at Twee

Rivieren, Nosob and Mata Mata. Facilities at the

camps also include a basic shop, fuel and ablutions.

Simple rustic chalets are available at each rest camp

but sleeping under canvas brings you much closer to

nature, so we’d hired a tent and camping equipment

in Johannesburg for a real ‘out of Africa’ experience.

Each pitch has its own braai (barbecue) and luckily

we remembered to pack a torch so that we could see

when our boerewors (sausages) and butternut were

cooked to perfection. Then, as we relax contentedly

in the cool dark stillness, the tranquillity and solitude

of the African bush consumes us. Crickets begin their

eerie serenade accompanied by the rhythmic sound

of barking geckos, the distant cackling of hyenas and

the hauntingly mournful cry of jackals as the Kalahari

slumbers. Nowhere could you feel more humble and

incidental to the grand scheme of things, being lulled

to sleep by a cacophony of grunts, snorts and rustles,

and woken by an occasional roar.

The long African day starts early in the Kgalagadi

and usually with a chill, but witnessing the sun creep

over the horizon and dipping the arid grasslands

in soft red ink more than compensates for leaving

a warm and cosy sleeping bag at 5.00 am. Driving

around the park soon becomes familiar as we adapt

to the soft sand and gravel tracks. There are few roads

in the Kgalagadi so getting lost is thankfully difficult

and route-maps are available when you enter the park

and at the rest camps.

There are also remote

picnic spots which

provide a welcome

opportunity for us to

stretch our legs. As we

munch our cereal bars

under the cool shade

of a spreading acacia

tree pulsating with

the shrilling sound of

cicadas we’re joined

by a cheeky band of ground-squirrels and flocks of

audacious birds. You may think that their expectant

pleadings are imploring you to scatter some crumbs,

but in this harsh Eden the birdlife needs to drink

often, so we share the contents of our water bottle

with them too. With the engine turned off the hot

desert wilderness sounds its solitary call carried on

the whistling winds of a sizzling Kalahari breeze. Each

zephyr is a blessing, albeit the furnace-like breath of

an angry dragon.

It doesn’t take long for us to acquire our ‘bush

eyes’. We keep them trained on the dry river beds for

high speed ‘chase’ action and head for an occasional

oasis created by manmade waterholes along looped

Above: Tall giraffe and its young slowly plod along; stopping under shady canopies to feed on choice leaves.

Above Left: Meerkat (Suricata Suricatta) are adopted to live in Kalahari; they have small bodies with reduced metabolic rate.

The Kalahari’s Kgalagadi

Transfrontier Park is an arid

savannah situated in the north-

west part of South Africa

Page 46: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 45

side-routes. Here vital water is pumped from deep

underground by creaking windmills reminiscent

of the American wild-west, creating large dusty

pools from slow dripping pipes. In our hire-car we

wait patiently, keeping our cameras trained on the

waterhole. Soon gusts of turtle doves and sand-

grouse thrill the air with excited wings swooping

down in desperate clusters to drink as menacing

raptors ride the thermals above searching for

easy prey. Scraggy hyenas brazenly cool-off and

wallow under the dribbling water often staking

claim to these communal pools. Larger animals

such as the migratory blue wildebeest, gemsbok,

springbok, eland and red hartebeest are also drawn

to these waterholes, shimmering into view, heads

bowed and distorting with each hypnotic step.

The approach of the large Kalahari lion with his

distinctive dense black mane materialises like a

threatening mirage. Heads turn nervously, ears prick,

noses twitch and muzzles bristle creating a tense

and unpredictable waterhole encounter. Padding

ever closer pandemonium inevitably breaks out.

Turtle doves and sand grouse blast into the air like

an explosion of fireworks and hundreds of hooves

kick up a dust cloud in a stampede to escape as our

camera shutters clatter away like Gatling guns. The

late nocturnal leopard is cautious and elusive, often

coming to drink unhurriedly at dusk, usually just as

the park gates are about to close. So keep an eye on

your watch too! We were almost locked out.

Elsewhere in the park small families of giraffe

slowly galumph along like tall ships of the desert

berthing under shady canopies to nibble choice

leaves from the acacia trees that line the dry

riverbeds. Smaller mammals like the hyperactive

meerkat escape the intense African sun deep

underground in a labyrinth of family burrows,

emerging in the late afternoon to forage. As the

greatest threat to meerkats is usually from above, a

sentinel, often balancing precariously at the top of

a thorn tree or bush keeps a watchful eye over the

skyline ready to sound the panic alarm.

As an ancient living desert the

Kalahari is an environment of climatic

extremes. Now is the time to go

and witness the desert bursting into

bloom. If the rains have been good,

fresh pastures of grassland and

flowers erupt from dust to carpet the

golden sand dunes, and temporary

pools linger long enough to help

sustain early life during the summer

birthing season. Later in the dry season

(September and October) is one of the

best times to visit the Kgalagadi for

game viewing when hot and thirsty

animals are drawn to the water holes.

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the vast

Kalahari Desert is a rugged, fragile and surprising

wilderness accessible to everyone with a taste for

adventure, and as our ostrich found out, just about

anything can happen! $

Travel PlanningFor the self-drive independent visitor to the Kgalagadi all reservations must be made in advance. Tours are available and can be arranged through any reputable safari company or travel agent in South Africa. There is no public transport within the park.

Camp Sites in the Kgalagadi· Check availability and pre-book online at www.anparks.org.· Camp site fee is from ZAR 145 per tent per night and bungalows or cottages can be rented from ZAR 665 per night.· There are also six wilderness camps in remote areas of the park but a 4x4 vehicle would be required.

Park Entrance Conservation Fees· Approximately ZAR 180 per person per day.· A ‘wildcard’ is available which provides discounted annual membership and free access to all South African national parks for one year.

What to TakeSunscreen, hat, binoculars and camera equipment are essential and something warm to wear in the evenings and mornings like a fleece, when the desert is very cool. Malaria is not considered to be prevalent but always check with your doctor before visiting.

Air Seychelles flies twice a week to Johannesburg.

Above: Kgalagadi is renowned for the seasonal movement of large herbivores such as the blue wildbeest.

Page 47: sil22no2

IMPORTANT NOTICE: Any figures given here are estimates or calculations based on information received from third parties. The information is given in good faith to act as a comparison between models in the Sunseeker range. Performance figures are based on ideal conditions with the vessel in light-ship state. The size and condition of the hull and underwater components, boat weight, ambient temperature and condition of the engines will all affect performance of the boat. The manufacturer, Sunseeker International Limited, cannot accept any responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any misuse of this information.

The new Sunseeker Predator 115 follows in the success of her award winning big sister, the Predator 130. Although smaller in length, the Predator 115 retains many of the stunning characteristics that have made the Predator 130 so successful. She has the exterior deck space of a Yacht but remains Predator in her look with an exemplary level of onboard luxury and, taking inspiration from the 34 Metre Yacht’s accommodation plan, can comfortably accommodate a party of up to 10 in five cabins, with a crew of five.

Expansive aft cockpit, flybridge and foredeck social areas provide endless entertainment opportunities, while for relaxation, the spacious flybridge features a large sunpad including spa tub, a large wet bar with stools, as well as generous seating area and tables for that perfect alfresco dining experience. By specifying the optional hard top, which supplies shade in the sun and beautiful down lighting for evening use, this area can be enjoyed at any time of the day.

The helm on the forward starboard side of the flybridge provides an option for the vessel to be operated from outside rather than from the raised wheelhouse, while the main deck boasts a large aft cockpit including spacious lounge seating plus table and, if specified, a bar for drinks service. The saloon can include a long or short arrangement layout, dependent on the client’s preference for additional inside or outside space. If the long saloon option is specified, the drinks service is moved from the aft cockpit and located on the aft starboard side, just forward of the main entrance doors.

The full beam master stateroom is a stunning feature, more often seen on yachts much larger in size. Thanks to its considered layout, the owner enjoys maximum space and privacy. A further four guest cabins are incorporated on the lower deck two doubles and two twins, each featuring the large panoramic trademark ‘organic’ portlights which provide a wealth of natural light.

There is an option for balconies on either side of the main deck saloon consisting of sliding patio doors and hinge-out bulwark

sections, which open up magnificent seascapes and bring in more natural light, promoting the outside/inside feel so popular in design today.

The Predator 115 has been built to RINA pleasure craft classifications with optional MCA LY2 short range yacht charter classification and the accommodation layout assures future-proof compliance with the latest crew cabin legislation. The vessel also accommodates a large aft tender garage for two jet bikes, and a tender up to five and a half metres plus hydraulic rise-and-fall transom platform.

Robert Braithwaite, Sunseeker founder, says: “We have achieved so much with this magnificent craft and once again we have pushed the boundaries of innovation. The new Predator 115 provides performance, space and the aggressive lines and sharp long bow which are synonymous with the Predator range, yet offers something genuinely new and exciting to further extend the range.””

He continues: “It is a vessel that offers exceptional performance as well as the trademark attenuation and smooth riding for which Sunseeker is renowned.””

With several Predator 115s in production and orders already confirmed well into 2012 and beyond, the success of this exciting new model is already guaranteed.

Sunseeker is now also available through dealerships in Seychelles, Mauritius, La Reunion, Kenya and South Africa.

World debut of Sunseeker Predator 115 at London International Boat Show 2011

Sunseeker International, manufacturer of the world’s finest luxury motoryachts, launched an exciting new addition to the Predator range – the all new Sunseeker Predator 115 at the recent Tullett Prebon London

International Boat Show, held at the Excel London from 7-16 January 2011.

To view the full Sunseeker yacht range please go towww.sunseeker-seychelles.net

Page 48: sil22no2
Page 49: sil22no2
Page 50: sil22no2
Page 51: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •50

Holiday pleasure is fragile and the right

ingredients in perfect balance are essential.

When verdant green palms gently shade

idyllic white sand from an equatorial sun while

iridescent reef fish swim in azure sea below an

endless sky freckled with sooty terns and white

frigates, it’s close to perfect. But top this with a

sailing adventure on a 14 metre (46 feet) Moorings

catamaran yacht with 1.4 million square kilometres of

Indian Ocean and 115 islands to explore and pleasure

is absolute. Soon after the white Genoa filled with a

light breeze we were drawn from the safety of the

Eden Island marina in Mahé, Seychelles to sail past a

pristine white resort on the protected Cousine Island

where I spotted a fresh beach trail from a Hawksbill

turtle and I knew all was right with the world. The

very next wonder that crossed our bow was it’s

twin island Cousin, a reserve since 1968 and nesting

250,000 seabirds a year including the endangered

Brown Noddies and Magpie Robins. We were heading

towards Praslin, the second biggest island in the

Seychelles archipelago, a four-hour sail away and the

anticipation of sailing slowly towards the different

islands as they lazily and beautifully loomed into

view, was enthralling.

There is no doubt that the way to experience

these islands is like the ninth century Arab mariners

from the seaward side. The islands are as natural and

idyllic as God intended and to move towards them

noiselessly propelled by wind enhances ones sensual

experience of Mother Nature. A sailing yacht moves

in rhythm with the swell and wind and the islands

are havens from the endless space and rocking of the

sea. Each experience of freedom while sailing away

into the sea unsure of what lay ahead, is followed by

a sense of safety as we return back to a natural bay

rimmed with white beaches in the pink of the sunset.

This cycle is overwhelmingly nurturing and makes for

a natural joy that bubbles up from ones heart and

laughter comes easily.

Our first night we dropped anchor, under a full

moon, in the small-protected bay of Curieuse, a turtle

sanctuary, which also protects the notorious coco-

de-mere palm, weighed down with the biggest nut

in the world. (Since it’s fruit takes six to seven years

to ripen all fantasies of being a castaway here were

banished!) Dawn found me swimming gently ashore

to complete an hour of yoga and meditation on the

smooth unruffled sand with only a tortoise or a crab

for company. This was followed by a snorkel back to

the boat admiring the diverse array of fish, surprising

a bottom grazing turtle and in turn being surprised

by a bat ray. Once aboard: vanilla tea, papaya, mango

and mini bananas that we had bought at a local

market the day before. Dave then checked out the

charts while Damian set up the rod and prepared the

Seychelles Yachting

by Megan de Beyer.

Phot

os b

y: D

amia

n C

rook

Page 52: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 51

trawling line for our very

own ‘catch of the day’ for

lunch. My job was simply

to raise the anchor with the

switch of a button to get the

‘windlass’ winding up the

chain. No spa could possibly

match this for me.

The spontaneity of such

a journey helps one return to

the travellers’ soul as sailing

is at the whim of the winds. I

think the dazzling clear light

and colour of the tropics

helps too. When anchoring

off Illes de Cocos (the best

snorkel spot in the world)

the blues ranged from the

subtlest opaque to turquoise,

to azure, to deep sapphire,

while the greens competed

with their own display. The

slower speed gave us time

to notice the little things:

the turtle tracks on the

beach, the shy fruit bats, the

white sea birds that nested

under rocks, the night time

phosperous and little glow fish that pulsated in the

early morning.

By day 5, while anchored off the deserted Petite

Anse, it made complete sense to snorkel naked amidst

the turtles and the myriad of reef fish unfazed by my

presence. Yachting in the islands brings one back to

basics. I stayed in my bikini all day. No cares about

clothes, make up, appearances or mirrors – what a

freedom that is and how wonderfully healthy we all

looked in our sun-kissed skin. There is no television

or phone or busy routine to distract and while under

sail it’s easy to doze on the front trampoline or be

absorbed by the sea as dolphins play on the bow wave

or flying fish, startled by our movement, bedazzle us

with their flying antics. Within days I felt in harmony

with nature’s essence and my soul sung with this

freedom. I think there is truth in the words of the

sangomas in South Africa who tell us that fast travelling

dislodges our souls and we need to sit still to help them

return to us.

Three of us initially set sail on Tranquillus a

beautifully turned out Moorings yacht and we each

had our own double bed in a light wood cabin with

well appointed cupboard spaces. The galley on a large

catamaran is awesomely spacious and airy allowing for

easy cooking, dining and lounging. I enjoyed the outdoor

area at the back with its cushions, large table and a

raised platform for the skipper equipped with every hi-

tech navigational need. Yet the front with its trampoline

is the highlight for sunbathing, reading, catching the

breeze and checking out the magnificent sites. For two

days there were five of us onboard and we all had our

privacy and own cabin!

A few times we went ashore in the tender to have

lunch at one of the many five star resorts and we spent

one full day on bicycle exploring la Digue, especially

it’s most photographed beach, Source d’Argent with

it’s gigantic granite sculptures. La Digue is a three-hour

sail from Mahé and Dave managed a tricky reverse

maneuver to moor us in the small La Passé harbour.

The greatest luck was having Dave, a super

yacht Captain and a life long friend of Damian’s.

The slower

speed gave us

time to notice

the little things

Page 53: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •52

He has immense experience of the seas, exploring

remote areas and navigating uncharted places. He

knew most of the good dive spots and had researched

the sheltered mooring spots for the night. Fascinating

conversations under moonlight, intense scrabble,

mini fishing competitions, perfecting the set of the

sails, testing fish marinade skills along with fresh fish

preparation, learning navigation and toasting every

beautiful sunset and yet another brilliant snorkel

with French champagne bonded our small crew. Dave

has been living on super yachts for 10 years and

allowed us a small peak into the life of the rich and

famous as they discover the most pristine dive spots

in the world while being pampered by every possible

luxury aboard. Super yachts (think mini-ship) have

large specialist crews and an endless array of super

water toys to have a blast with. Dave has to have

the most sought after job in the world and an aspect

of it is to research places no one has ever heard of.

Like his excursion with dignitaries to the remote

marine reserve of Aldabra in outer Seychelles with it’s

supreme double lagoon, once a haven for pirates.

Soon after leaving La Digue we anchored off a

small dive spot, Marianne, and dropped through a top

layer of current into a world of fluted rocks and caves

where grey reef shark swum deep into crevices and

the biggest crayfish I had ever seen peered at us from

beneath a coral laden rock. The clear visibility brought

me eye to eye with Napoleon rass, bat, angel, butterfly

and puffer fish, as well as eagle rays and eels. The ease

of diving off the yacht is sheer convenience and since

Dave is also a dive instructor our adventurous spirit

took us to our next dive site: a deep-sea rocky outcrop,

Mamelle.

We were looking for reef sharks and I

nonchalantly commented that I had seen both black

and white tip reef sharks already and knew what to

look out for. I decided to stand on the bottom and

clear my steamed mask and when I opened my eyes

a shark was swimming towards me. My excitement

soon turned to fear as I realised this was not the

skinny over one metre (5 inches) harmless fish that

I predicted but a potentially man-eating over two

metres (8 inches) silvertip reef shark that had a heavy

build more like a great white! When it came directly

to me I thought I was food for sure but it took one

sniff and only had time for a passing glance before

it was darted away with one swift movement of the

tail. When deciding to be adventurous prepare for an

adrenalin rush and a wallop of fear.

Fishing was the biggest laugh since we didn’t

know a ‘popper’ from a ‘dropper’ and when the

unmistakable sound of the reel went whizzing

drawing our attention to the rod like an alarm the

tempo increased as we all started shouting without

anyone listening. We landed a tuna only to release it

since no-one wanted to kill it. It was thanks to Annie,

a local Seychellois that we finally got to eat our

daily catch. She led us through catching, identifying,

descaling and degutting as well as grilling on our

boat braai. Although I’m always preaching about our

disconnection to what we eat because we never grow

or kill what we eat, the reality is not for the faint

hearted.

One week allowed only the exploration of the inner

islands and although I had feared this ‘tourist belt’ for

being busy and commercial there was no such thing!

My only qualm is that some of the inner islands are

occupied by overly exclusive resorts, like Fregate at

R.250,000 a night, yet they are accessible for lunch

and intensely protect sensitive biodiversities. Then

again, there are 80 more uninhabited to explore.

Sailing around the Seychelles islands and being

welcomed by its multi-ethnic peoples, its natural

beauty and easy ways brings you back to yourself.

Your basic, free and untamed self, reminding you how

beautifully balanced and cocooning the world can

still be. $

Fishing was the

biggest laugh since

we didn’t know a

‘popper’ from a

‘dropper’

Page 54: sil22no2
Page 55: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •54

La Réunion est la plus grande île de l’archipel des Mascareignes, et aussi la plus proche de Madagascar. Du haut de ses 3071m d’altitude, elle est aussi l’île la plus

haute de tout l’ouest de l’océan indien ! Inhabitée jusqu’à ce que les français s’y installent en 1665, l’île Bourbon, appelée ainsi en l’honneur des rois de France jusqu’à la révolution française, fut rapidement colonisée et ses richesses naturelles exploitées sans retenue ou presque jusqu’au siècle dernier. On y trouve aujourd’hui une population arc-en-ciel résultant du métissage des français et malgaches venus de Madagascar (les tout premiers habitants), des esclaves africains, puis des indiens hindous ou musulmans, des marchands et travailleurs chinois, des comoriens, sans oublier les métropolitains venus de France et appelés ‘zorey’ en raison de leur difficulté à comprendre le créole. Avec près de 800.000 habitants, la Réunion est aujourd’hui devenue une île très peuplée qui s’est considérablement développée suite à son accession au statut de département français d’outre-mer en 1946. Malgré l’impact très négatif de l’homme sur son environnement, cette île d’environ

La Réunionune île classée au patrimoine mondial de l’humanité.

Seychelles

Paysages de montagne à couper le souffle, animaux et végétaux uniques et un volcan parmi les plus actifs au monde, on ne

peut être qu’émerveillé par la beauté et l’exubérance de la nature réunionnaise. Le biologiste Gérard Rocamora nous en dit plus.

Phot

o by

Gér

ard

Roca

mor

a

Pâturages de la Plaine des Cafres, commune du Tampon.

Le Piton de la fournaise en éruption, cratère dans l’enclos Fouquet.

Phot

o by

Jacq

ues T

rouv

illie

z

Page 56: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 55

2500 km2 a su d’abord se protéger elle-même grâce à son relief tourmenté. Elle reste une des îles océaniques où les milieux naturels ont été le mieux préservés, sauf en dessous de 500m d’altitude où la plupart des milieux ont été convertis en zones agricoles ou urbanisées. Depuis 2007, le Parc National de la Réunion accorde une protection à plus de 40% de la superficie de l’île et à 94% de ses milieux naturels. Depuis le 1er Août 2010, tout cet ensemble de pitons, cirques et remparts a été officiellement classé Patrimoine Mondial de l’humanité.

Des paysages et des climats extraordinairement variésFaçonnée par l’activité volcanique qui l’a faite sortir du fond de l’océan il y a environ six millions d’années, ainsi que par l’érosion qui y a créé d’impressionnantes ravines omniprésentes, cette gigantesque montagne de près de 7000 mètres de haut présente dans sa partie émergée une incroyable diversité de paysages résultant de reliefs, d’ensoleillements, de températures et de précipitations très différents.

C’est le long de la côte Ouest de l’île, entre Le Port et Saint-Pierre, qu’il fait le plus chaud et le plus sec (moins d’un mètre de pluie par an); c’est aussi le seul endroit où l’on trouve de belles plages de sable, un lagon et un récif corallien très riche en vie marine (crustacés, coraux, poissons, tortues…), qui attirent de nombreux baigneurs, pêcheurs et plaisanciers. Partout ailleurs, le littoral est surtout constitué de côtes rocheuses et de plages de galets. On trouve encore dans cette zone fortement peuplée et cultivée quelques petits étangs et marais. Dans la région de St Leu, très prisée par les adeptes du parapente, s’étend un paysage de savanes herbeuses qui domine la zone côtière. La côte Est de l’île, entre Saint-André et Sainte-Rose, fait face aux alizés et reçoit donc beaucoup plus de pluie (plus de 3m d’eau par an entre St-Benoît et St-Philippe). Les cultures, principalement de canne à sucre, dominent

le piémont, tandis que les forêts luxuriantes, les canyons et les cascades abondent en altitude, où les pluies atteignent certaines années 12m d’eau près des sommets. Surtout n’oubliez pas de bien vous habiller pour visiter l’intérieur de l’île, car la température se rafraîchit très vite avec l’altitude. En Août 1996, alors que la température était de 20° à mon arrivée à St Denis de la Réunion, elle n’était plus que de 2 ou 3° degrés sur la Plaine des Chicots dans l’après-midi, 1800 mètres plus haut, et une fine couche de givre recouvrait la végétation le lendemain matin !

En dehors des paysages volcaniques du Piton de la Fournaise, ce sont ceux non moins exceptionnels du sommet enneigé du Piton des neiges et des trois cirques qui l’entourent qui caractérisent à mon sens le mieux la beauté démesurée et imposante de l’île de la Réunion. Correspondant à des zones d’effondrement d’anciens volcans – appelées aussi caldeiras – ces trois sites que sont les Cirques de Mafate, de Cilaos et de Salazie, se surpassent en paysages grandioses. Si la randonnée est le moyen idéal pour découvrir et partager ces fabuleux paysages, quelques routes de montagne permettent d’accéder facilement en voiture à des points de vue impressionnants sur les cirques, comme celui du Maïdo (Mafate) ou celui de la Fenêtre des Makes (Cilaos). Landes, prairies d’altitude, arrêtes saillantes, ciel bleu, mer de nuages, arbres enguirlandés de lichens, parois gigantesques tombant à pic, versants couverts de forêts denses, cascades, chaos rocheux, canyons et torrents sinueux, îlets verdoyants avec quelques hameaux incroyablement isolés : c’est tout un spectacle de formes et de couleurs qui nous remplit d’une sensation de plénitude tout en nous ramenant à notre condition d’humain, bien minuscule et éphémère en comparaison.

Des espèces uniques mais fragiles dont certaines ont déjà disparu

On trouve à la Réunion de nombreux types de forêts liés aux différents étages de végétation. Si les forêts sèches ou semi-sèches de basse altitude

Phot

os b

y: G

érar

d Ro

cam

ora

Bois de piment ou bois de rat Geniostoma borbonicum, espèce indigène.Fougère arborescente endémique de haute altitude, Cyathea excelsa appelée ‘Fanjan’.

Page 57: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •56

ont presque disparu, les forêts tropicales humides sont encore bien représentées, principalement en montagne au dessus de 800m où elles perdurent sur plus de la moitié de leur surface originelle, avec les forêts de ‘bois de couleur des hauts’, ou celles de Tamarin, cet arbre dont on tire un sirop et une boisson locale. Ne manquez pas de visiter la forêt de Bébour, l’une des plus vastes forêts de bois de couleurs de l’île, où vous pourrez observer le long des sentiers aménagés de nombreux arbres et plantes endémiques (c’est-à-dire n’existant nulle par ailleurs) ou simplement natives de l’île, surtout si vous pouvez vous faire accompagner par un guide local. Les troncs d’arbres mais aussi les feuillages et les autres plantes qui composent cette forêt ont des couleurs très agréables, avec beaucoup de mousses, de lichens, et des plantes poussant en hauteur sur les troncs appelées ‘épiphytes’. Vous pourrez y observer ces magnifiques fougères géantes, appelées ‘fanjans’, dont la Réunion possède trois espèces endémiques, que certains utilisent malheureusement encore pour faire des pots de fleurs malgré leur protection.

Sur les 836 plantes indigènes recensées dans l’île, 232 sont endémiques c’est-à-dire uniques à l’île de la Réunion. Pas moins de 31 plantes endémiques ont par ailleurs disparu et plus de 120 sont menacées d’extinction. L’une des principales menaces est la concurrence des espèces exotiques envahissantes, comme le Raisin marron, ou le goyavier de chine, deux plantes originaires d’Asie, et bien d’autres. Sur 700 espèces exotiques qui se sont naturalisées, une soixantaine sont devenues de redoutables pestes végétales. Aussi les organismes de protection de la nature comme le Conservatoire Botanique National des Mascarins, l’Office National des Forêts et le Parc National travaillent ensemble à la sauvegarde des plantes les plus menacées et à la restauration de certains milieux comme la forêt sèche.

Les animaux ne sont hélas pas en reste dans le domaine des espèces menacées ou déjà disparues.

On y retrouve un très fort taux d’endémisme et des dizaines d’espèces fragiles déjà éteintes, victimes de l’exploitation à outrance des premiers arrivants, et des espèces exotiques prédatrices comme les rats et les chats qui les accompagnaient. Il existe même plusieurs guides des espèces disparues (22 oiseaux, 4 reptiles dont une tortue géante et 4 chauve-souris). Parmi les oiseaux endémiques qui ont survécu figurent deux oiseau-lunettes (appelés en créole Zwazo blan et Zwazo ver), le Busard de Maillard (Papang), la Moucherolle (Zwazo lavyerz), le Bulbul (Merl pei) , le Traquet (Tek-Tek), la Salangane et l’Hirondelle appelées toutes deux Zirondel. Le plus menacé et emblématique d’entre eux est l’Echenilleur ou Tuit-tuit (Tit-twit) dont moins de 100 couples survivent, principalement à la Réserve Naturelle de la Roche Ecrite. Il y a également à la Réunion un Caméléon endémique, particulièrement bien décrit par son nom créole: Landormi. Depuis une dizaine d’années, la Société d’Etudes Ornithologiques de la Réunion et le laboratoire d’écologie marine de l’Université de la Réunion ont lancé des programmes d’études et de conservation des pétrels, oiseaux marins nichant dans des terriers à haute altitude. Attirés par les éclairages nocturnes des villes, des milliers de poussins de pétrels ont été sauvés d’une mort certaine et relâchés en mer depuis 2002, en particulier deux espèces menacées à l’échelon mondial le Pétrel de Barrau (Tayvan) et le Pétrel noir de Bourbon (Fouké nwar; moins de 100 individus dans le monde). Le contrôle des densités de rats et de chats sauvages est essentiel pour empêcher la disparition progressive de ces espèces menacées.

Le très rare Echenilleur de la Réunion, dit ‘Tuit-tuit’, capturé afin d’être bagué.

Versants abrupts de la rivière des Remparts.

Phot

os b

y G

érar

d Ro

cam

ora

Page 58: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 57

Un volcan très actif et des défis à releverSeul volcan encore en activité dans l’océan indien avec le Karthala (Grande Comore), le Piton de la Fournaise (2632m) est un des volcans les plus actifs au monde, avec des éruptions tous les deux à quatre ans en moyenne, mais parfois jusqu’à trois à quatre par an ! Avec celui du Piton des neiges, qui cessa son activité il y a environ 12000 ans, ils ont façonné ensemble le relief de la Réunion. Dans la partie sud de l’île, on peut voir dans la zone du ‘Grand brulé’ les traces de toutes les coulées de lave ayant dévalé les pentes au cours des dernières décennies. Ces coulées traversent régulièrement la route nationale (qu’il faut alors refaire !) et arrivent parfois jusqu’à la mer, en agrandissant l’île au passage (près de 400 ha lors de l’éruption de 2007). Logiquement, cette partie de l’île est la moins habitée et certaines bourgades comme Sainte Rose ont parfois eu à subir la destruction de quelques habitations. Après le passage de la lave, la recolonisation par la végétation s’engage immédiatement, et une quarantaine d’années plus tard, une jeune forêt a déjà pris place sur les sols de lave volcanique. A raison d’environ 1mm de croissance par an, on estime qu’il aura fallu près de 6 à 7 millions d’années pour que cette immense montagne, dont seulement une petite partie est émergée, parvienne à sa taille actuelle. Celle-ci devrait néanmoins s’affaisser progressivement pour devenir, dans une quinzaine de millions d’années, un atoll corallien comme ceux des Seychelles ou des îles éparses voisines.

Région ultrapériphérique de l’Union Européenne, dotée de moyens conséquents par rapport à la plupart des autres îles océaniques du monde, la Réunion voudrait servir de modèle dans la lutte contre le réchauffement climatique et la perte de biodiversité, thème de la conférence internationale qui y fut organisée en 2008. Parmi ses grandes ambitions figure le développement d’énergies renouvelables, en particulier la géothermie liée à l’activité volcanique, mais aussi les énergies solaire ou éolienne qui fournissent déjà avec l’hydroélectrique une bonne partie de la consommation d’énergie de l’île. L’autosuffisance énergétique à l’horizon 2030, le développement de l’écotourisme et la préservation de son identité et de sa culture créole sont autant de nouveaux défis pour l’avenir. Avec son formidable capital naturel mais aussi humain, la Réunion devrait pouvoir atteindre ces objectifs, et montrer le chemin d’un développement durable qui sache préserver cette nature exceptionnelle et tout ce qui fait le charme de cette île. $

Sentier aménagé et écotouristes dans la forêt de Bébour.

Phot

o by

Gér

ard

Roca

mor

a

Page 59: sil22no2
Page 60: sil22no2
Page 61: sil22no2
Page 62: sil22no2
Page 63: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •62

Carnaval International de Victoria Takes the Capital by Storm

By Glynn Burridge.

Unprecedented crowds squeezed themselves into every nook and cranny of the capital, Victoria, as Le Carnaval International de Victoria

thundered into town on the evening of Friday, 4 March 2011 for a grand opening ceremony by the clock tower where President Michel officially launched the event.

With evening shadows slowly lengthening over the brightest of days, prancing carnival figures in a variety of spectacular costumes paraded at the entrance to State House before an ever-swelling number of onlookers jostling for views of this much-publicised happening that would soon take the streets of the capital by storm.

After meeting members of the international press and visiting dignitaries in the gardens of State House, President James Michel accompanied them on foot to the stage which had been prepared at the entrance to Independence Avenue. Here, in front of an impressive gathering of international dignitaries and local personalities, the spectacle kicked off with the Mayor’s address, a song by local singer Michelle Marengo and

the opening speech by the Chief Executive Officer of The Seychelles Tourism Board, Mr. Alain St. Ange.

In the audience foreign dignitaries, Mauritian Deputy Prime Minister Pravind Jugnauth, Zimbabwean Vice President J.T.R. Mujuru

Phot

os b

y ST

B.

Page 64: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 63

and Vice-President of Zanzibar, Seif Ali Iddi were joined by former Seychelles President Sir James Mancham, Vice President Danny Faure and the Mayor of Victoria, Victoria Antoinette Alexis. Together, they listened as Dionne Warwick, music legend and

goodwill ambassador for the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organisation, urged the crowd not to forget that one in every six people on the planet wake up not knowing where they will get their next meal from.

Her impassioned plea to ‘remember the most vulnerable, voiceless people in the world, poor hungry families suffering from high food prices, the global financial crisis and increased frequency of climate-related disasters’ was followed by the keynote speech of President James Michel. In his

address, the President spoke of the carnival as ‘the encapsulation of the Seychelles’ Brand’ and the uniqueness of Seychelles as a melting pot of cultures and as a tourism destination with ‘a great deal to offer to the global village’, before declaring the carnival open.

Without further ado, the evening’s entertainment began to sizzle with the presentation of the carnival theme song Carnaval de Carnavals by local musician Patrick Victor followed by a medley by Jean-Marc Volcy and songs by Seychellois-born Australian Grace Barbe. Other contributors to the evening’s entertainment extravaganza were the Waki band from la Reunion, Trinidad and Tobago’s Lima Calbio, the Capetown Minstrels, an Indian musical group and a moutya by local artists Fek Arive. For the remainder of the evening, crowds milled in central Victoria beneath bright fairy-lights, tasting the fare of the many food and beverage stalls and generally soaking up the animated carnival atmosphere.

The next day saw the biggest crowds that Victoria has ever seen in its entire history line the carnival route in anticipation of the procession of floats which began to roll from their starting point at Roche Caiman at 1.30 p.m. Beneath a blazing sun and cloudless blue sky, one by one, more than 60 floats traced a route that took them along the Mont Fleuri Road and into the packed streets of central Victoria, each one flaunting its colours in its own special way to the delight of enthralled onlookers.

Behind the Seychelles Tourism Board float with its Carnival Queen and full complement of staff, Svelte Brazilian beauties teamed up with carnival partners from the famous Notting Hill Carnival, Indonesia, Italy, Russia, South Africa, Zimbabwe, La Reunion, India and many others to be joined by a kaleidoscope of Seychellois participants representing Air Seychelles and a broad spectrum of local businesses, hotels and organisations. Like some giant serpent, the grand procession wound its way, prancing and dancing, displaying, gyrating and imitating, past the assembled throng, the VIP stand outside the central library and the event judges, to its final destination at the central Stad Popiler car park where the entertainment continued well into the night in the form of live music, cultural entertainment, food fiesta and open-air disco.

The third day of the carnival lived up to expectations as a ‘family-fun day’ with crowds of revellers again descending on central Victoria to savour the carnival atmosphere, familiarise themselves with the various carnival floats, taste delicacies from a wide range of international and local food stalls and await the results of the famous carnival lottery with its first prize of a Hyundai car.

As Le Carnaval International de Victoria wound to a close it was abundantly clear from the crowds in attendance that their appetite for carnivals has now been well and truly whetted for the next edition, due to be held between the 2 and 4 March 2012. $

Page 65: sil22no2
Page 66: sil22no2
Page 67: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •66

In April 1790, Jean François Jorre de Saint Jorre and his family sailed from Port Louis, Ile de had France (now Mauritius) to Seychelles in search of

a new life. They hoped to seize a once in a lifetime opportunity to make their fortune in a little-known land that had been uninhabited just a generation earlier, before the first French settlers made a similar journey just 20 years earlier.

In the late 18 century, France’s ambitions in India gave a vital strategic value to the little known islands off the east coast of Africa, which acted as staging posts on the sea route to their emergent Indian trading stations. France considered it vital to consolidate their fragile grip on these remote outposts. Concessions were granted to the children of settlers in the new French colony of Seychelles in the hope they would put down roots, thus making a statement that the islands were now French possessions. Each concession comprised 108 arpents (about 44 hectares) of prime land which ran in strips from the coast to the mountains so that each settler had a share of every sort of terrain and access to the sea.

The Saint Jorre family were allocated property on the east coast of Mahé at La Plaine St. André, named after Jean François’s place of birth at St. André in Bourbon (now Réunion), and here they constructed one of the finest homes in the islands. In the ensuing 220 years, much has happened to the house at La Plaine St. André. It was once at the heart of bustling plantation life, when first the slaves and in later years

free workers were summoned to the day’s labours by the ringing of a bell, and down at the shore the family welcomed visitors arriving in their pirogues or canoes, the crops were loaded and supplies unloaded and fishermen set off to catch the wherewithal for dinner. Most comings and goings went by pirogue, the roads being more difficult to traverse than the shallow coastal waters. As the heat of the day increased, the family would sit on the airy verandas, the ladies in their voluminous gowns fanning themselves and complaining of the heat, and the gentlemen resplendent in their white suits and stiff collars, smoking their cigars made of home-grown tobacco and sipping rum and water. The rum they drank was probably also locally made, or perhaps imported from the flourishing distillery on Frégate island. They would not have had to send so far afield even as that these days for their glass of superior rum; for La Plaine St. André is now the setting for Seychelles’ premier rum distillery.

Trois Frères Distillery produce five quality spirits under the Takamaka Bay label, including a traditional dark rum, a white rum, a rum laced with the aroma of coconut, a vodka and an excellent eight-year old rum which needs no mixer, but is superb with nothing added but an ice cube. The company had long been established at Providence, Mahè, the main industrial zone of Seychelles. Richard D’Offay saw the potential to transfer the business away from the setting of a modern industrial estate to a context more in tune with the roots of rum distillation and at the

The Spirit of SeychellesBy Adrian Skerrett.

The rum they drank

was probably also

locally made, or

perhaps imported

from the flourishing

distillery on Frégate

island

Phot

os b

y: A

dria

n Sk

eret

te

Page 68: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 67

same time restoring a dilapidated historical house, turning it into one of the leading cultural and tourist attractions of Seychelles. The location could not be more appropriate. The house is once again alive with the comings and goings of a busy operation, the site has come alive once more, and its new custodians, Takamaka Bay, have both a passion for history and a passion for making superb rum.

Rum, once known by the alarming appellation of kill devil is the drink associated in most people’s minds with the Caribbean; with pirates and the mariners of the Royal Navy who relied upon their daily tot to make their harsh lives bearable or steel themselves before engaging in the vicious sea battles of the Napoleonic Wars. But wherever sugar can be grown, people will make rum, and for many years it has also been produced in the Indian Ocean region, particularly in Mauritius. Although sugar was never grown on the vast scale in Seychelles as it was in the Americas and on Mauritius, from the times of earliest settlement, every household grew a small patch of sugar cane for domestic use. Interestingly the cane grown in Seychelles is different to other islands in the region as these are the only granitic islands in the Indian Ocean; therefore the rum produced from this cane has a complexity unique to Seychelles.

The sugar used for Takamaka Bay rum is carefully chosen for its juice and sugar content from selected regions on the island. Once the cane arrives at the distillery it is crushed as soon as possible to ensure the best return of juice. The extracted juice is not as sweet as you might expect and makes for refreshing and healthy juice drink, green in colour and known as vesou. The juice is then transferred to fermentation tanks for up to five days, before distillation. At Takamaka Bay there are two types of

stills: the alembic or pot still used primarily to obtain rum with a lot of flavour components and the column or fractional still which gives well defined rum of greater purity. Rums produced from both methods have their own unique characteristics which can be further enhanced through the processes of ageing and blending. After distillation, the rum is put into French barrels and aged. Ageing imparts a characteristic flavour to the rum spirit, provides the distinctive amber colour and also tends to smooth out the spirit depending on the length of time the rum spends in the barrel.

With the opening of the distillery, the future of the house was also secured. This was very welcome news to the Seychelles Heritage Board whose property it had become due to its outstanding historic and cultural importance. Prior to this the house had a troubled history. After the Saint Jorre’s left the property there were sustained efforts to preserve it. The site was declared a national monument in 1982, and in 1994 restoration work began with financial assistance provided by the French Mission for Cooperation and Cultural Affairs whilst valuable advice about the renovation was given, highly appropriately, by two descendants of Jean Francois, Danielle and Irene Jorre de Saint Jorre, who had lived in the house as children and became now closely involved in the project. The house was eventually reopened as a museum, but tragedy struck when the main house suffered a major fire. It seemed that one of the best preserved historical sites of Seychelles could be lost forever; but then in 2007 fresh impetus was given to the preservation of Seychelles’ cultural legacy with the creation of Seychelles Heritage Foundation. Four sites of great cultural importance now came under the management of the Foundation, including the

Page 69: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •68

La Plaine St. André house. The aim was to give this site an economic value and generate an income which would fund the restoration of the buildings and gardens to their former glory. Tenders were invited for private partners and it was at this point Richard D’Offay and Trois Freres Distillery stepped in.

Since then the main house has been faithfully restored and now incorporates a modern fusion Creole restaurant with private dining rooms, front and rear verandas, and an elegant rum and cocktail bar. Open throughout the day and late into the evening the restaurant will serve dishes such as Crab and Octopus Curry, Boudin and Chicken Balentine, and Cinnamon and Vanilla Parfait. The bars feature Takamaka Bay Rums and a wide and exclusive selection of cocktails created uniquely by our international mixologist for La Plaine St. André; such as Mango Margarita, Minted Ginger Collins and Plantation Breeze. Other areas of the plantation include a fully operational artisan distillery where they can host tasting, beautiful landscaped grounds featuring botanical, medicinal and herb gardens as well as the historic ruins and a traditionally housed boutique offering the company’s products.

Restoration of a house such as this is a labour of love; there are few quick fix solutions or short cuts. These colonial homes were built by craftsmen who combined woodworking techniques devised in the days before power tools, and some handed on from marine carpentry with which many of the earliest settlers were most familiar. The materials used in the first construction were all close at hand: coral and lime slaked from the coral to build foundations, timber from the mountain forests for the framework and the hardwood shingles which roofed the house itself, and leaves from the palms to thatch the outbuildings. The builders knew exactly how to create a home which would maximise the cooling effect of the breeze in those days before the luxury of air-conditioning. There was a wide veranda where much of the family’s life was spent. There were 25 windows and doors to allow in whatever breezes were available. Within the house, wall partitions did not reach the ceiling so that air could move freely about the interior and the house was raised up on coral masonry pillars so that cool air could pass beneath the house and up through the floorboards.

For the time, the Saint Jorre house must have provided the height of elegant living. They had a spacious sitting room and dining room, the bedrooms each had a dressing room, and there was an office from which the busy plantation was run. Other facilities, including the bathrooms, toilets and kitchens were all separate buildings for reasons of hygiene and safety. But the house was just one element in the complicated life of a working plantation. There were numerous outbuildings dotted

around it: the petit pavilion blanc where guests could be housed, a copra mill with which the valuable oil was extracted from the coconuts, and a coach shed. Behind the coach shed were two pavilions for storage of tobacco carrottes and bananas. Today only the ruins of the foundations of some of these buildings survive although they had remained in use right up until the World War II, when they were used to store rationed goods such as rice, sugar, lentils, and flour which were distributed from here to the inhabitants of the Anse Aux Pins and Anse Royale areas. At the far rear of the main house alongside the kitchen, toilets and bathroom was the limestone kiln where lime for mortar was extracted from coral. There was also a giant tortoise pen; any family which could afford to keep tortoises did so. They were pets, but could also provide a spectacular main course for feast days. These outbuildings now lie in ruins though it is intended to restore them in due course.

On the seafront, opposite the house, was the boat shed which housed the pirogues. Originally a vital point of access to the sea where visitors would

Page 70: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 69

arrive and goods or produce were loaded or unloaded, just two coral pillars of the original structure remain today. Once it would have been an unofficial social centre for the plantation workers, who would gather in its welcome shade to chat and pass on the gossip in what leisure time they had. Surrounding the buildings were the gardens which were planted not just with attractive tropical species but with a wide range of medicinal plants and fruit trees. Beyond all this lay the plantation. In the days of the first Saint Jorres the few arpents they were given to develop would have been planted with several different crops, mostly intended for their own use, but with the hope of producing sufficient surplus to sell to other island settlers. As the plantations matured, they might even have been able to export some of what they grew to Mauritius. Their crops might have included sugar, coffee, rice and cotton. At first cotton was the crop of choice, but in time planters dabbled in vanilla, cinnamon and finally the king of all crops, the coconut as demand outside the islands changed. The planters turned to the coconut when slavery was abolished so that the workforce now had to be paid. The old, labour-intensive crops were no longer viable, but you could grow acres of coconut palm trees using relatively few workers, and so Mahé became an island of palms, which were planted from shore to mountain top. The Saint Jorres went with the trend, steadily extending their acreage until they had about 800 acres of land, nearly all planted with coconuts, and by then they were amongst the first families of the island, at the top of the social tree.

Jean François Jorre de Saint Jorre did not live to see this: he died in 1795. At least he saw his beautiful home constructed and knew his dynasty was secure. His descendants played an important role in the growth of the little colony, and the great and good of Seychelles, and of the French and British administration during colonial days, would have sat on the veranda and enjoyed the cool evening air, perhaps even sipping a glass of rum. Their lifestyle was as gracious as the times permitted. The last generation to live in the house recalled rooms lit by oil lamps and candles and one can imagine the soft light falling on the polished wooden floorboards and the sound of a piano, or perhaps of the family’s excited voices as they played games to pass the evenings, echoing out across the swept courtyard to the outbuildings where the workers slept. Sometimes there would be visitors, perhaps from the other striking homes just along the coast; the beautiful plantation house of the St. Roch estate, built in 1870, or the

stately St. Joseph house. The former is now the centre of the Craft Village and Maison St. Joseph is the headquarters of the Kreol Institute. The distillery at Plaine St. André makes the perfect addition to this range of cultural attractions strung out along the coast of Anse aux Pins, and to round off the story perfectly, Irene Saint Jorre remembers her father raising a glass or two of rum in their house; in particular a rhum préparé which was rum with water, spiced over a period of months with orange peel, currants and vanilla. In those days the rum came from Mauritius; but those days are gone. Delicious Seychelles rum Plaine St André-style is here to stay. $

Page 71: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •70

Whales and dolphins are, for most people, a source of wonder. We experience delight and awe at the sight of a whale breaching

the surface or a pod of dolphins leaping and spinning seemingly for the sheer joy of being alive. They are large-brained social mammals similar to us and they breathe the same air we do to sustain their lives, yet they are at home in an alien marine world where we could not possibly survive without a plethora of equipment.

Aristotle 2,400 years ago was first to declare that whales and dolphins are not fish but mammals. They belong to a group of mammals called Cetaceans. Whales and dolphins are warm blooded and give birth to live young that stay with the mother for over a year, feeding on the mother’s milk. Their skeletons are similar to our own though greatly modified, with similar bones in them to those in our arms and hands. Cetaceans are split into two groups, according to their method of feeding. The toothed whales including dolphins, sperm whales and killer whales have teeth to catch fast swimming prey such as squid. Toothed whales also differ from the second group of Cetaceans, the baleen whales, in that they only have one nostril instead of two. Baleen whales have no teeth as we know them, but baleen plates or whalebone made of keratin (like fingernails and hair) that act as an elaborate sieve and a huge tongue. They gulp huge mouthfuls of sea water to sift for plankton or shoaling fish and then close their mouths, using their huge tongue to squeeze the water out through the baleen filters, keeping the prey inside to be swallowed. Different species of baleen whales

Wonderful Whales and Dolphins By Adrian Skerrett.

feed on different sizes of prey according to the width of the gaps in their baleen filters. The baleen whales include all the really large whales (apart from the sperm whale) and most spectacular of all, the blue whale, the largest animal that has ever lived on earth.

Adapted as they are to the marine world, whales possess a range of skills quite different to other mammals. For humans, perhaps the most fascinating question of all is that of their intelligence. Just how can we gauge the cognitive abilities of whales and dolphins? They certainly have large brains, perhaps not surprising in view of their size, although dinosaurs famously are thought to have had pea-sized brains despite their enormous proportions. More significantly, they have a brain to body weight ratio superior to the great apes. Scientists hypothesise a rough measure of intelligence in animals as the ratio between actual brain mass and predicted brain mass for an animal of a given size, something known as the encephalisation quotient or EQ. The bottle-nosed dolphin has an EQ of 5.3, more than double the EQ of our nearest relative the chimpanzee and second only to humans whose EQ is about 7.4, while even the most intelligent of dogs barely manages an EQ much higher than 1.0.

In addition, the neocortex (the thin grey outer layer of the brain associated with higher thought and intelligence) of whales and dolphins is very advanced and suggests they have self-awareness and are capable of rational thought. They also have spindle neurons, which are found only in a few species and are involved in emotions and the ability to sense what others are thinking. The philosopher Thomas

Above: Joyful dolphin frolics in the deep waters of the Indian Ocean that seperate the island of Seychelles.

Below: Dolphin and toothed whale except the sperm whale has two set of phonic lips, enabling them to produce two sounds independently.

Phot

o co

urte

sy w

ww

.wik

iped

ia.c

om

Page 72: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 71

White, argues that these characteristics make a dolphin a “non-human person”. They are aware of their environment, with emotions, distinct personalities, self control and the ability to treat others with respect. In effect, we need not look deep into outer space to search for intelligent life forms, because they already live alongside us on planet Earth.

Whales and dolphins use their highly developed senses in different ways to humans. Their marine environment transmits sound waves more efficiently than air (sound travels four times faster in water than in air) so they use sound more than sight to survive. They have well developed eyes and fine eyesight in shallow clear waters, but even in the clearest ocean light cannot penetrate beyond 500 metres. However sperm whales can descend to an incredible 2,500 metres (1.6 miles) to feed on fish and squid. They locate their prey in the blackness by echolocation, bouncing pulsed waves of sound off them. In tests, dolphins have been able to locate bite-sized objects from a distance of a quarter of a mile.

Cetacean sound production differs significantly to human sound production. In toothed whales sounds are made by passing air through the phonic lips, a structure in the head similar to the human nasal cavity. As the air passes through a narrow passage, the lip membranes are sucked together, causing the surrounding tissue to vibrate. As in the human larynx, sound can be consciously controlled with precision and the vibrations pass through the tissue of the head to the melon, which shapes and directs the sound into a beam of sound. Every toothed whale except the sperm whale has two sets of phonic lips, enabling them to produce two sounds independently. Baleen whales have a larynx that appears to play a role in sound production, but it lacks vocal cords and the mechanism is not fully understood. It does not operate the same way as the human larynx because whales do not have to exhale to produce sound but probably recycle air around the body.

Sound is used by whales for a variety of purposes that are not fully understood. Humpbacks produce sound at the calving grounds during the breeding season believed to be primarily for sexual selection. Males sing while swimming alongside a female or in competitive groups comprising one female and several males. Humpbacks also make a feeding call, a long sound of near constant frequency lasting up to 10 seconds. Whales feed cooperatively, swimming beneath shoals of fish and swimming vertically through the fish to leap out of the water. Prior to the feeding lunge, whales make their feeding call. Humpback whales also have a range of social sounds to communicate including various grunts and barks.

Two groups of whales, the humpback whale and the Indian Ocean race of blue whale are known to produce a series of repetitious sounds known as whale song, described by marine biologist Philip Clapham as “probably the most complex in the animal kingdom”. Research by Dr. Christopher Clark of Cornell University show that whale noises travel for thousands of kilometres enabling researchers to track their migrations. All whales in a geographical region sing a virtually identical song at any one point in time, but the song constantly evolves over time. Whales occupying different regions that do not overlap sing entirely different songs. An analysis of whale songs over nearly two decades found that while general patterns in song could be detected, as the song evolves, old patterns are never recycled.

Above: Dolphins and whales have smooth streamlined bodies for gliding through the ocean.

Phot

o co

urte

sy w

ww

.wik

iped

ia.c

om

Page 73: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •72

The life span of a whale or dolphin is not known with certainty and it varies between species, but it is estimated that typically they may be similar in length to human life spans at around 77 years. However, some individuals may live considerably longer than others. In 2007, a piece of a 19th century whale harpoon was found in the body of a bowhead whale off Alaska, suggesting the individual could have been 120 years old or more.

Whales and to a lesser extent dolphins are sometimes involved in mass strandings. The reasons for these are not fully understood and many may be natural events. Possibly some are due to navigational errors or perhaps as social animals, if one of their number is sick or injured the others may stay with it, even if it means putting themselves at risk. However, if natural causes were the only factor, the number of strandings would most likely stay constant, whereas the number actually appears to have been increasing in recent decades. Part of the reason may be the use of military sonar and some stranded animals show signs of physical trauma, including bleeding in their brains, ears and internal tissues, which can be linked to sonar. In effect, live animals may be chased onto land by man-made noise in the sea. Evidence of how dangerous military sonar might be emerged in 2000, when four different species of whale stranded themselves on beaches in the Bahamas after a U.S. naval exercise used mid-frequency sonar in the area. The Navy initially denied responsibility, but a government investigation concluded that Navy sonar was indeed the cause of the strandings.

In the 19th century, Seychelles was a port of call for many whaling boats especially those from the United States and there are references to a whaling base at St. Anne as early as the 1830s. The most valued catch was the sperm whale, sought after for the huge quantity of oil stored in its head, which was highly prized as a lubricant for machinery. These were the days of no holds barred commercial whaling and inevitably the numbers of whales were considerably reduced until the industry became no longer viable, alternative sources for lubricant having become available. Then in 1979, Seychelles assumed an entirely different role in the story of whales, when it proposed the establishment of the Indian Ocean Whale Sanctuary. This was adopted by the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and an area where commercial whaling is prohibited was declared extending to 55° South.

The best whale-watching opportunities in Seychelles waters lie in the deeper waters around the

outer islands, especially around Aldabra and north of Bird and Denis island at the edge of the Seychelles Bank. At Aldabra, huge schools of spinner dolphins can be seen within sight of the shoreline. Humpback whales also gather annually at Astove and Aldabra apparently on migration over huge distances between breeding and feeding grounds. In 1996, mothers with calves were found off Madagascar suggesting this is a calving and nursing area and there is also a population in the northern Indian Ocean, but little is known of the life of humpback whales in Seychelles.

The shallow waters around the granitic islands are not so ideal for deep water species, but even here dolphins are very commonly seen. Bottle-nosed dolphins in particular can be seen year-round on boat crossings between islands, usually in pairs or groups of four but occasionally in larger groups of up to 12. One of the best places ashore to see whales and dolphins is from the summit of the nature trail on Aride, where the cliffs provide a vantage point over the Indian Ocean. Bottle-nosed dolphins are frequently seen in the waters below and as are, on occasion, larger species such as humpback whales.

Our fascination with whales stirs deep emotions. For some they are little more than a source of food to be exploited like any other animal, but for others their continued exploitation is a symbol of man’s lack of morality and failure to peacefully co-exist with nature. If we can ruthlessly exploit fellow intelligent beings to the point of extinction, how far have we truly progressed? Fortunately, dolphin and whale-watching has today become an important and popular pastime, a new, benign and sustainable replacement for the old whaling industry that brings us close to a little known and understood life form, so different to us in many ways and yet at times surprisingly similar. $

Phot

o co

urte

sy w

ww

.wik

iped

ia.c

om

Whales and to

a lesser extent

dolphins are

sometimes involved

in mass strandings

Below: Dolphins and whale – watching has today become an important and popular past time.

Page 74: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 73

Page 75: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •74

The Alfred Jewel is probably the single most famous archaeological object in England. Its distinctive shape, the valuable materials used

to make it and above all, its tantalising inscription that may refer to King Alfred the Great; make it one of the greatest treasures of the University of Oxford.

No other ruler in England’s long and varied history has been honoured with the epithet ‘the Great’, which was bestowed on him in the 17th century. Indeed, Alfred once declared it his intention “To live worthily as long as I live and after my life to leave to them that should come after, my memory in good works”. Few of our monarchs have succeeded as spectacularly in their aims as he.

Alfred (Old English-Aelfred), was the fifth and youngest son of Ethelwulf of Wessex and his Jutish first wife, Osburga. He was born in the village of Wanating, now the thriving market town of Wantage, Oxfordshire between 847 and 849, although the exact date of his birth is unknown. His birthplace was a palace or ‘vill’ which lay at the foot of the Berkshire Downs, which has now vanished. At the age of five years, Ethelwulf is said to have taken Alfred on a pilgrimage to Rome where, according to the ‘Anglo-Saxon Chronicle’, he was confirmed by his godfather, Pope Leo IV who “anointed him as a King”.

Victorian writers interpreted this as an anticipatory ‘coronation’ in preparation for his ultimate succession to the throne of Wessex. However, his succession could not have been foreseen at the time, as Alfred had three living elder brothers. On their return from Rome in 856, Ethelwulf was deposed by his eldest son Ethelbald. Nobly accepting the status quo in the hope that civil war and the consequent loss of life could be avoided, Ethelwulf retired to Kent, where he reigned as a sub-king until his death in 858. Alfred was 11 when his father died. He was studious as a child and grew to be a man of determination, intelligence and resolution, despite suffering from ill health for much of his life.

Alfred’s three elder brothers reigned in turn before him. During the reign of the youngest of these, Ethelred I, Alfred emerges from the mists of obscurity to fight loyally by his side in the struggle against the Danish incursions into Wessex. At the Battle of Ashdown in the Vale of the White Horse, the pious Ethelred remained so long in his tent praying for victory that Alfred became impatient and led his men in a furious charge at the enemy without waiting for his brother to finish his prayers.

Alfred JewelBy Peter Holthusen.

The Alfred Jewel, showing the first word of the inscription: AELFRED MEC HEHT GEWYRCAN, ‘Alfred ordered me to be made’, is one of the greatest treasures of the University of Oxford.

Phot

os b

y Pe

ter

Hol

thus

en

The

Page 76: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 75

The Witangemot, or Saxon parliament of wise men, met after Ethelred’s death from wounds sustained in battle and elected the 21 year old Alfred, who had already demonstrated himself as a confident leader of men, as King of Wessex. His brothers between them, had lasted barely a decade. In electing Alfred, the Witangemot passed over the two young sons of Ethelred. The law of primogeniture was not then established in Saxon England and it was normal practice for the King to be elected in this manner. The practice of crowning a successor as royal prince and military commander is well-known among Germanic tribes.

The depressing series of defeats at the hands of the Vikings continued unabated and Alfred was forced into a strategy of buying them off. As a result they ceased their attacks and for a period of five years, peace reigned in Wessex. This peace was not likely to last for any considerable length of time and was at best a temporary measure. The Viking army, after taking Mercia, divided. One part, under Halfdan, marched north to Yorkshire where they settled permanently. The other, under Guthrum, launched another attack on Wessex in 875. They withdrew again in 877 and began to colonize Mercia.

Wessex was savagely attacked for the third time in 878 and Alfred was driven into hiding at Athelney in the Somerset marshes, where he remained with his ally, Athelnoth, Ealdorman of Somerset and others of his thegns, and biding his time. Legend has it that in his preoccupation with the defence of his kingdom, he famously burnt the cakes here and was set upon by an angry housewife.

Bishop Asser informs us in his ‘Vita Ælfredi’ that Alfred had a great love of jewelled ornaments. His crown, which unfortunately no longer survives, is listed in an inventory of jewels melted down by Oliver Cromwell at the establishment of the Protectorate. It is described as being studded with emeralds and a spectacular jewel, and some believe this to be the now legendary Alfred Jewel housed in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.

No other artefact surviving from the Anglo-Saxon era embodies so many rich resonances as the Alfred Jewel. It is a matchless piece of goldsmith’s work by a master-craftsman operating under the patronage of the West Saxon court. The Jewel represents the pinnacle of Anglo-Saxon technological achievement, while the name of the monarch which it proclaims places it among the most precious of royal relics. The Prince of Wales, when first shown the Alfred Jewel a few years ago, was caused to wonder why it did not form part of the Crown Jewels, and indeed it would be entirely at home in those august surroundings.

The Alfred Jewel first came to light in 1693, ploughed up in a field at Newton Park in North Petherton, Somerset by a labourer digging for peat. Even its find-spot contributes to its interest and mystique, since North Petherton is only a few kilometres from Athelney Abbey, the stronghold in the marshes from which Alfred launched his counter-attack on elements of the Great Army of the Danes.

An illustration of the back of the Jewel. This plate is engraved with an elegant plant pattern – a central stem has leaves and branches sprouting out from its sides and top – against a hatched background.

Enlarged view of part of the Jewel, clearly showing the crystal behind the gold letters. Below the letters, gold wires were soldered on to the frame in an elegant arcade and scroll pattern, with gold grains filling the spaces.

By Peter Holthusen.

Page 77: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •76

ears, eyes with beaded wires that probably once held small glass studs, long scrolling eyelids, and jaws, in which it clasps a short tube.

The back of the beast’s head is a separate gold sheet, soldered into place by a beaded wire. It is engraved (or chased – there is a slight difference that is hard to detect) to look like scales. A larger back-plate is secured by ‘teeth’ extended from the frame and bent over. This plate is engraved with an elegant plant pattern – a central stem has leaves and branches sprouting out from its sides and top – against a hatched background. The enamel is fused on to a separate sheet.

No one has ever doubted that the sponsor of the piece was King Alfred the Great. He died at Wantage in 899 after turning the tide of battle against the Scandinavian warriors who threatened the continuing existence of Anglo-Saxon control over much of England. The West Saxon flavour of the prose is entirely in sympathy with such an interpretation. Alfred’s achievements were as much cultural as military, and amongst his most effective measures was his commissioning of translations of religious texts into the vernacular. With each of the copies of one of these texts – the ‘Pastoral Care of Pope Gregory the Great’, written cira 890 – which he dispatched to monasteries throughout England, he is said to have sent also a precious ‘aestel’ so that it might be read with all due solemnity.

How Alfred the Great died is uncertain, although he suffered throughout his life with a painful and unpleasant illness – possibly Crohn’s disease, which seems to have been inherited by his grandson King Edred. He was originally buried in the Old Minster at Winchester but a few years later, on the completion of the New Minster at Hyde Abbey,

This attack ultimately led to his crucial victory at Edington in 878.

Newton Park was owned by Sir Thomas Wrothe, who became the owner of the Jewel. He soon gave it to his uncle, Colonel Nathaniel Palmer, who had been an undergraduate at Trinity College, Oxford, and at his request it was given to the University after his death in 1717. It was supposed to have gone to the Bodleian Library, but in fact entered the collections of the Ashmolean Museum, opened a few years earlier and the first public museum in Britain.

The Ashmolean’s registers record its presentation to the Museum in 1718 by Thomas Palmer, Nathaniel Palmer’s son, whose initial is shown with it in the watercolour painting in the Museum’s ‘Founder’s Book’. The Alfred Jewel has formed one of the principal treasures of the collection ever since.

Over the years the Jewel has been the cause of as much speculation as admiration. Precisely what might have been its purpose was a source of much uncertainty: early theories suggested that it could well have been the centrepiece of a royal head dress – literally a crown jewel – but the setting seemed inappropriate for that purpose. An alternative, that it was a pendant to be worn round the neck, seemed equally unhappy since it would have condemned the figure on the Jewel to have hung permanently upside-down. More recently opinion has moved towards it being an ‘aestel’ or pointer, used to follow the text in a mediaeval gospel book in much the same way that the ‘Yad’ continues to be used in the Jewish synagogue for reading the Torah. The dragonesque head at the base of the Jewel holds in its mouth a cylindrical socket, within which the actual pointer – perhaps made of ivory – would have been held in place by a gold rivet (still in situ).

Similarly curious is the teardrop-shaped form of the piece. Current opinion suggests that the Jewel was formed around a pre-existing slab of rock-crystal, possibly a re-modelled Roman piece. The figure represented in delicate colours in cloisonné enamel, which is coloured glass set in a honeycomb of gold to make a pattern on a plaque protected by the rock-crystal, is also enigmatic. Originally it was interpreted as St. Cuthbert, the best-known English saint of the pre-Alfredian period, but it is now thought to represent the sense of sight: a contemporary silver brooch in the British Museum, engraved with figures representing all five senses, shows sight as a man holding two prominent plant-stems or flowers, exactly as shown on the Alfred Jewel. Such an illusion would be entirely appropriate for an instrument dedicated to the practice of reading.

And finally the inscription: AELFRED MEC HEHT GEWYRCAN, ‘Alfred ordered me to be made’. Below the letters, gold wires were soldered on to the frame in an elegant arcade and scroll pattern, with gold grains filling the spaces. The arcade is framed by beaded gold wires. At the end is a sheet-gold animal’s head, with gold wires forming its long scrolling

Alfred (Old English-Aelfred), was the fifth and youngest son of Ethelwulf of Wessex and his Jutish first wife, Osburga. No other ruler in England’s long and varied history has been honoured with the epithet ‘the Great’, which was bestowed on him in the 17th century.

The Ashmolean’s

registers record its

presentation to the

Museum in 1718

by Thomas Palmer,

Nathaniel Palmer’s

son, whose initial

is shown with it in

the watercolour

painting in

the Museum’s

‘Founder’s Book’

Page 78: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 77

Alfred’s body was transferred there along with those of his wife and children. Soon after the ‘Dissolution of the Monasteries’ in 1539, during the reign of Henry VIII, the church was destroyed, leaving the graves intact. Some of the bones from the tombs, although mixed up, were collected by the monks and placed in caskets above the chancel in Winchester Cathedral. Alfred’s remains are believed to be among these.

The fame and reputation of King Alfred, one of the ablest of England’s monarchs, were never to diminish. Florence of Worcester, writing in the 13th century, has left us with a fitting statement on Alfred:-

“Alfred the King of the Anglo-Saxons, the son of the most pious King Ethelwulf, the famous, the warlike, the victorious, the careful provider for the widow, the helpless, the orphan and the poor, the most skilled of Saxon poets, most dear to his own nation, courteous to all, most liberal, endowed with prudence, fortitude, justice and temperance; most patient in the infirmity from which he continually suffered; the most discerning investigator in executing justice, most watchful and devout in the service of God”. Many of our Kings could not wish for a finer epitaph. $

Pinnacled towers and cloistered college lawns, bicycles propped against honeystone walls and the punts on the willow-fringed River Cherwell are all symbols of the venerable city of Oxford whose heart still beats to its own timeless rhythms.

Page 79: sil22no2
Page 80: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 79

Welcome to Morne Seychellois National Park: over 30 square kilometres of mountain and mist forest spread across

the west and central massif of Mahé, rising to almost 915 netres (3,000 feet). This is an eerie, spectacular, humbling place. Explore it on foot or by car, but do not leave Seychelles without experiencing it. It is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Purists will want to do it for themselves: take one of the sign-posted trails winding up through the forest to the peaks of Mont Blanc, Trois Frères or even the bare-capped highest point of Morne Seychellois itself. The paths are marked and there are leaflets available which give guidance and information, but even experienced walkers and climbers should take a few points on board before setting off. The paths are steep; often very steep indeed, and beneath the trees it is hot, humid and airless. The trails are not regularly walked and the vegetation grows very quickly in these tropical mist forests. This means the paths quickly become overgrown and can be hard to pick out. Take time when deciding which way the trail goes, and if you do have a guide leaflet, make careful use of it. Although you need no specialised equipment, you must have some reasonably sturdy shoes and a good supply of water. It would be sensible to let someone know where you are going, just in case you get lost or someone in the party has an accident.

Remember that darkness comes on very quickly and allow yourself plenty of time for your walk. There are no animals to be afraid of in the forests; no nasty venomous snakes or biting insects (apart from the inevitable mosquitoes). Perhaps the biggest ‘danger’ is that, away from the path, it is easy to step onto what you think is solid ground and discover it is nothing more than a mat of decaying vegetation; or put your foot onto what you think is a solid log and find it is rotten through and gives way beneath you. Watch out if you grab hold of a branch to stop yourself from falling; many of the plants in the mist forest have vicious spikes. After rain the paths become very slippery, especially on the descent and it is easy to slip. But, if you are fit, follow some common sense rules and place your feet carefully, it is relatively easy to reach some of the most unspoilt and fascinating regions of enigmatic Mahé mist forest.

There is no need to despair if you do not feel equal to such a physical challenge. The Sans Souci road winds right through the park. There is hardly any traffic up here, even though the road is in good condition, and there are plenty of places to pull off to just take in the astonishingly lovely views, and soak up the atmosphere. The first thing which will strike you is the silence: it is broken only by the piping of tiny endemic frogs and the clatter of branches in the tree canopy above and, if you do get into the mist forest proper, the steady dripping of water from

Mountains in the MistBy Judith Skerrett.

It is relatively easy to reach some of the most unspoilt and fascinating regions of enigmatic Mahé mist forest.

Page 81: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •80

almost permanently sodden mosses and other plants growing up in the trees. Here the branches of the trees are swaddled in green moss; ferns, orchids and even other trees grow on other trees and creepers dangle down from above in true Tarzan fashion; though you would be mad to entrust one with your weight. Although the forest is full of life, it is equally a place of decay: decay is all around you, from the thick, slowly decomposing layer of leaf litter beneath your feet, to the rotting tree branches over your head. After the rain the forest has a smell like cooking cabbage. This feels like a primaeval world; a world from a time before mammals existed; in which many creatures had yet to evolve. Invertebrates, insects and skinks; snakes, tiny frogs, millipedes, leaf insects, stick insects, chameleons and snails go about their secretive business in their kingdoms of decaying vegetation, causing the odd rustle, but apart from these micro-animals, little else stirs. It is even too high for the birds. Towards the summits the only call you might hear are the mocking laughter and jeers of the bulbuls, carrying up the mountainside from below: they do not venture into the really high mist forest.

If you want to experience this but feel uncertain about setting off alone, there are local guides who lead walks into the mountains. Not only do they know the paths, they are also very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna and will enhance your journey by showing you things the casual observer might miss. They know the routes very well and can choose the ones best suited to your level of fitness.

Amongst the trails you can choose from is the Trois Frères route, which climbs up immediately after the Forestry Station along the Sans Souci road. Many kalis d pap and santol trees line the start of the trail to the 700 metre, the second-highest peak on Mahé, and the third-highest point in Seychelles. On this walk it is possible to see the endemic, insectivorous Seychelles pitcher plant. These grow in untidy tangles draping themselves over other plants and bushes, the fleshy tendrils ending either in the perfect lidded goblets of the pitchers, into which insects are attracted and are trapped, unable to climb up the slippery sides to freedom, or in the apple-skin, blushed-pink and green leaves.

On first setting out it is possible you might see or more likely hear, one of the two rarest birds on Mahé – so rare in fact that for much of this century experts thought that the Seychelles white-eye a tiny grey-brown bird with a white circle around the eye, was extinct. It moves through the trees hunting for insects with other family members, and betrays its presence by a soft, whispering call. Unfortunately the very reclusive bare-legged scops owl, as is the habit of owls, only ventures out at night and is not often seen. Like the jellyfish tree it was thought to be extinct until 1959 when ornithologist Philippe Loustau-Lalanne rediscovered it. It is a small, dark brown bird and is heard more often than seen. It has a strange, rasping call which has earned it the Creole name for

woodcutter, syer, because it sounds rather like someone sawing timber with a handsaw.

Once the ubiquitous mynas of Mahé are left behind, the only other species you may be aware of flitting through the trees are the sunbirds and bulbuls. The noisy Seychelles bulbul will always make its presence felt. It has a bright orange beak and a scruffy crest. Individuals chase each other through the trees, screeching raucously. The Seychelles sunbird is hardly less vocal, the males trilling repetitively. It enjoys the nectar of such exotics as hibiscus and banana flowers as much as that of the endemic vegetation. Small and with a down-curved bill, this bird flits about nonstop. In the breeding season the throat of the male becomes a metallic blue with a flash of orange or yellow on the body under the wings. When you break out of the forest onto a ledge or viewing spot, look out for the Seychelles kestrel or katiti, which is much smaller than the familiar bird of prey found in Europe. As it flies it makes a continuous flight call: ti-ti-ti. You may also see the beautiful Seychelles blue pigeon soaring over the treetops. It has a metallic, deep blue back, a white chest and red wattles on the face.

To reach the summit of 900 metre high Morne Seychellois is quite a challenge, and is especially difficult as the path is hard to follow. For this you should seriously consider hiring a guide or you could easily get lost. Other trails include the one up to 500 metre peak of Copolia, and the 650 metre path up Morne Blanc. Arguably the finest walk, and probably one of the longest, (taking between four and six hours) is the Congo Rouge trail which starts close to the Mission Viewpoint (off the Sans Souci road) and passes through gnarled northea and bwa rouz trees dripping with damp moss, to emerge on a ridge

Above: The noisy Myna, introduded from India to Mauritius in order to control locusts – and from there to Seychelles.

Below: A bright orange flash of beak is the signature mark of the bulbul.

Phot

o by

Cam

erap

ixPh

oto

cour

tesy

ww

w.w

ikip

edia

.com

Page 82: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 81

cloaked in hundreds of pitcher plants. The path then descends to Le Niol, and ends close to the reservoir.

Although the forest has, over the years since settlement, been invaded by exotic flora – especially albizias, cinnamon and santol – the park contains many fine endemic trees and efforts to replace the exotics with endemics are ongoing. All but a handful of the 75 plants unique to Seychelles, and including five of the six endemic palms, four varieties of screw pine, and some of the rarest trees and plants on earth, flourish within the park. One is the bwa d fer (Valeria seychellarum) which was abundant when the first explorers arrived. It grew tall and straight and was irresistible to ship-builders in the age of sail because it made ideal masts. For this reason it is now an endangered species. Most of the survivors of the onslaught have apparently regenerated themselves from stumps. The bwa d fer is found on no other island, and the Morne Seychellois National Park therefore contains the entire world population of this very rare tree.

Another great rarity found in the mist forest, and one which keen botanists make great efforts to see, is the jellyfish tree, (Medusagyne oppositifolia) or bwa mediz, which was only rediscovered in the 1970s. It is so unusual and so primitive that botanists

had to create a new family to classify it. For many years it was thought that only six trees, on just one Mahé hill top remained, but later searches have revealed the existence of about 50 specimens of this botanical oddity. To see this peculiar tree you need to ask expert advice, since it still only grows in just a few selected spots.

Introduced species, particularly albizias, were taking over most of the valleys, but there have been strenuous efforts made to fell them in recent years, leaving more room for the trees which naturally belong on the mountain slopes. Another aggressive invader is cinnamon. It

was introduced to Mahé in the very early years of settlement and having arrived, found it to its liking, spreading even to the highest heights of the mountains. At one time the bark, and the oil extracted from the leaves, was exported, but the amounts produced eventually became uncommercial and the trade has dwindled. Unfortunately where cinnamon dominates there is little or no undergrowth since the chemicals in its leaves kill off competing plants. You may find coconut palm trees more familiar from the beaches, growing even at considerable heights. This is because in the days when the coconut was the dominant commercial crop, land which did not have palms trees on it was considered almost unsaleable, and so proprietors would plant them wherever they could, far up into the hills. You will sometimes even come across tropical garden plants growing wild; the only reminder that someone once had a little home here in the mountains, and tended a garden up in the clouds.

Much of what the casual observer sees in the mist forest is not, of itself, spectacular: everything is green and brown and just looks like any other plant, fern or tree unless you are a botanist, or have things pointed out to you: you might be looking at something incredibly rare or incredibly strange without knowing it. One of the few obviously lovely plants is the vanilla orchid (Vanilla phalaenopsis) or lavanil sauvaz, which fortunately is quite easy to see, and grows even by the roadside. Although it only flowers after heavy rain, you often see its tangle of green, rubbery, leafless stems entwined in small bushes. The flowers are large and white with a peach coloured centre.

Coming out from the dark, humid world beneath the trees, you will be rewarded by outstanding views across the slopes of the mountains and out across the glittering sea to the horizon. The forests you have walked through are charged with an atmosphere unlike any other place in Seychelles, where the phantoms of mist drift eerily through the trees like ghosts. With the forest behind you, you will feel the cool air very welcome on your hot cheeks. The silence is complete unless a breeze rustles through the treetops. Even on the brightest of days the mood of the mountain changes by the minute and clouds may suddenly settle on the heights or roll up from the sea like a great, soft, grey blanket enveloping you in a grey, clammy embrace.

If time or energy is lacking, you can get a feeling for the high forest at Mission Viewing Lodge, which is located on a turn off from the Sans Souci road. This was once the location of a missionary school and its ruins are still visible beside the track which leads to the viewing platform. It is only a short distance from the car park and the walk is easy. The view is stunning and you may want to linger here, especially if you have it all to yourself, to really take in the unique atmosphere, the eerie silence and the utter peace of Mahé’s mystical mountains. $

Below: Cool stream falls over lichen-covered rocks in Mahé’s Morne Seychellois National Park.

Phot

o by

Cam

erap

ix

Page 83: sil22no2
Page 84: sil22no2

A small hotel with a big heart

The Coco D’or Hotel, is built on 3 hectares of lush tropical land, on the north west coast of Mahé. The hotel is a mere four minutes walk from Beau Vallon, one of the island’s most beautiful beaches. The Coco D’or sets itself apart from other hotels in Seychelles by virtue of its location, amenities and unparalled service philosophy.

27 appointed rooms and suites, each with a private bath, balcony, terrace and/or living room are divided into two categories:-

Standard room 24 rooms with a verandah and tropical garden, 6 rooms with a terrace and 2 with a lounge.Deluxe suites 3 rooms with a private patio terrace and mountain and garden view, two bathrooms, a kitchen- ette and a separate living room.

Coco D’or Hotel & Restaurant • T/A Nalini R. Properties (Pty) LtdBeau Vallon, Mahé, Seychelles • P.O. Box 526 Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

Phone: +248 247331 • Fax: +248 247454 • E-mail: [email protected]

Page 85: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •84

There are moments in everyone’s life which stand out as particularly special, occasions when you wish time would stop and the

moment could be held for ever. For me it began on a gloomy day in the

magical Tuscan town of Siena. A family visit to this ancient seat of Italian culture and learning set the tone and only the May showers dampened our enthusiasm.

As we scuttled from the famous Piazza del Campo, scene of the annual horse race, we sought shelter and lunch in a nearby restaurant. The instant we entered the busy dining room the sights, smells and sounds launched a full frontal assault on our senses, and the experience began. We had hit upon a culinary nugget where Tuscan dishes were a speciality.

I chose the Zuppa alla frantoiana (Tuscan bean and cabbage soup) and unwittingly bought myself a bowl of epicurean heaven. All the ingredients were local and fresh but the crowning glory was the extra virgin olive oil used both in the preparation and added after serving. This golden nectar is poured over the steaming broth, sinks beneath vegetables then rises to form a lustrous surface. Its addition transformed an essentially peasant dish from the superb to the divine.

The secret was the quality of the olive oil, in this case a locally made extra virgin oil from the first cold pressing. Truly an ambrosial feast which will linger long in the gastronomic corners of my memory. And who am I to question the tastes of the Gods? If such hallowed deities as Athene can laud this nectar so highly it would be churlish to demur. Yet it always seemed a paradox that the quintessence of the Mediterranean lands, the gnarled olive oil tree, should hail from such lofty origins. But legend persists.

It is said that Athene, goddess of wisdom and learning, and her more disputatious comrade, Poseidon, god of the sea, were at loggerheads over the honour of bestowing patronage on a certain Greek city. Finally they agreed to settle the vexed question by a test to see who could produce the best gift for the new city. Athene commanded the earth to bring forth the olive tree. Poseidon replied by commanding the sea to bring forth the war-horse. Athene’s gift was adjudged the better – and the city was named Athens. Ever since the tree and its fruit have been regarded with something akin to reverence.

It is seen in Greece as a symbol of chastity and a newly married bride would wear an olive garland. In ancient Greece it represented merit and a crown of olive twigs was presented to a citizen who had achieved the highest distinction in the service of their country.

Similarly an olive branch was recognised as a symbolic offering of peace. The vanquished who sued for peace demonstrated their intentions by carrying olive branches. In statuary, a royal ruler portrayed with an olive twig in his hands was deemed to have maintained a reign of peace. In that ultimate cauldron of competition, the Olympic Games, a crown of olive leaves was presented to the victor.

GIFTOF THEGODS

Fresh from the press, Italy’s olive oil

is ambrosial in its delights – a fitting

gift, as Bob Smith reports, of the

Goddess Athene.

The olive tree, its fruit and oil were well known to the Phoenicians and ancient Egyptians and were cultivated in Syria as early as 6000 BC. It is recorded that olive oil was being exported from Attica between 638 and 559 BC – the period of the Athenian legislator Solon and it merits several mentions in the Bible.

As the Mediterranean region was colonised, so the spread of olive oil progressed. The first olive trees reached Provence 2,500 years ago via the Greeks and local rumour insists some of the trees survive today. The Romans took the olive to Tunisia where huge groves are still cultivated.

There are more than 60 different varieties of olive trees and they can grow to a considerable height. Any visitor to the Mediterranean will be familiar with olive groves, the ancient trees reaching up to 18 metres (60 feet) in some coastal areas.

Longevity is a part of their virtue, though the 2,500 years claimed in Provence may dwell more in the realms of romance than fact. But 300 years is not considered old for an olive tree. They start bearing fruit from their sixth to seventh year but don’t reach full yield – between 20 to 40 kilogrammes – until their 25th year. Because of the general shortage of water, olives are harvested every other year at times which vary according to the use for which they are intended. It takes five kilogrammes of olives to produce one kilogramme of the amber fluid.

Olives straight from the tree are bitter and completely inedible. The best eating or ‘table’ olives are picked first then put in brine. They take their flavour from the additives such as garlic, oregano or coriander, which are added to the liquid.

Page 86: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 85

After the green and glossy black olives are picked from the end of August to September, comes the harvest of oil olives. They come from a different variety and are left to shrivel on the tree before being gathered. The process generally begins in late October, or later in Tuscany, after the ground around them has been hoed clear of weeds.

Sheets of hessian or plastic are laid under the trees which are then struck with cypress logs to dislodge the fruit which drops onto the sheets. Higher branches are reached by ladders and the trees are pruned at the same time.

Ripe olives are taken to the press the same day, before fermenting can occur. They are washed to remove chemicals and residues, then crushed to a paste between granite stones and spread on straw or plastic mats which contain a central hole. The mats are stacked two metres (six feet) high, then they are

wheeled to a press and a perforated tube descends through the central hole in the mats. A hydraulic press gradually exerts pressure while, simultaneously, warm water flows through the hole in the tube to wash the paste.

The warmer the water the more olive oil will be extracted, though there is an optimum temperature. The result of this process is an uninspiring mix of oil, water and liquid olive.

Traditionally, the oil would now be separated from the water in a series of settling tanks, but this system has been streamlined by using centrifuge machinery. The final result is the ultimate liquid – a virgin olive oil from this first pressing.

This is the purest and most aromatic oil and the one which most resembles the original fruit. On some estates a little straw is left with the olives to impart a traditional taste. Other houses add lemons or olive leaves to impart natural oils and flavours.

Quality is rated by acidity; the lower the percentage, the higher the quality. In all events, virgin oils must have less than four per cent acidity and to qualify for the finest of all categories, ‘extra virgin’, an oil must have less than one per cent acidity. An oil beyond four per cent acidity cannot be sold for human consumption and must be refined.

Oils which are commercially produced and blended do not have to state what proportion of different oils have been used. This only applies to pure olive oils (a mixture of virgin and refined) and to extra virgin oil. Estate-produced and bottled extra virgin is a guarantee of what is in the bottle and goes a long way towards justifying the high price of the commodity. Second pressing with crushed husks and stones brings inferior results.

ZUPPA ALLA FRANTOIANA(Tuscan bean and cabbage soup)

Cooking time: two hours.Serves: two or three people.

Ingredients• Two rashers smoked streaky

bacon• One onion peeled and thinly

sliced• 1/2 pounds pre-soaked haricot,

cannelloni or borlotti beans• 11/2 pints water or stock• ½ pounds shredded cabbage• Bay leaf• One celery stalk, trimmed and

sliced• Salt and pepper• Two to three slices diced or

lightly toasted wholemeal bread• Two to three tablespoons extra

virgin oil per bowl• Freshly grated Parmesan.

PreparationDiscard rind and cut bacon into matchsticks. Fry them gently in heavy saucepan until fat runs. Fry onion until golden brown then add beans and stock. Cover and simmer gently for an hour. Add cabbage, herbs and celery and cook for another 30-40 minutes or until beans are tender. Top up with water or stock if necessary. Season. Put a slice of bread in the bottom of each bowl and pour olive oil over it. Two-to-three day old bread is better than fresh. Pour boiling soup into bowls and serve Parmesan and extra olive oil separately.

Taste depends very much on the individual, though Tuscan olive oil is generally considered to be the best, with that from the area of the walled town of Lucca rated as number one.

Italian oils have an elegant, peppery taste while Greek oils tend to be heavier and pungent. Spanish and Portuguese olive oil is reckoned to be nutty in flavour while the French product is supposed to be more sweet and aromatic.

As a general guide, olive oil should always be used according to the culinary practices of its country. In Italy, where oil is used to dribble over bread, vegetables and pulses, it takes the form of a condiment. In France and Spain it is used more as a cooking medium for deep-frying, mayonnaise and general cooking.

One of the great advantages of olive oil is its health-giving properties and perhaps its greatest bonus in this respect is that it contains no cholesterol. It is a monounsaturated fat which research has proved has beneficial qualities over alternative oils and fats used in cooking and eating. It not only reduces amounts of low-density lipoprotein in the blood, but leaves untouched high-density lipoprotein which assists in eliminating cholesterol from the blood.

Mediterranean peasants swear by olive oil as a cure for all and cite the trees’ ancient lineage as a pointer to their own acknowledged longevity.

Keeping stocks of olive oil is not a problem provided it is kept correctly. If simple rules are followed it will keep indefinitely. The perfect place is a cellar, for the arch-enemy of the oil is light which oxidizes the liquid, though it does contain natural anti-oxidants that will preserve it in suitable conditions.

Apart from taste, olive oil has many benefits. It is taken to relieve constipation; a favourite remedy for earache is a bud of cotton wool soaked in warm olive oil inserted into the affected ear.

Olive oil is also a favourite medium for massage and is particularly good for ailing joints and sprains while some people swear by it as a cure for baldness and as preventative for dandruff.

It features in religious ceremonies and, perhaps most practically, is used by poor people to fill their lamps to provide light.

Not surprisingly, it is also said to possess aphrodisiac qualities. Indeed there is an old Greek proverb which suggests: “Eat olive oil if you are to come and spend the night … ” $

Page 87: sil22no2
Page 88: sil22no2
Page 89: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •88

Every night, if a ship from the east or north arrives in the Seychelles’ archipelago, the captain of the vessel will be on the lookout for a flashing light located

at precisely: 03 47.81’S, 055 40.02’E 95 kilometres (59 miles) north of the main Island of Mahé. For 128 years the lighthouse of Denis Island has provided navigational safety to thousands of ships …

And yet it was not the colonial government’s voluntary decision to build a lighthouse on Denis Island. It was a peremptory demand made by the French shipping company, Messageries Maritimes, which had been operating regular services to the Seychelles since 1864. In May 1881 they informed the Chief Civil Commissioner, Henry Cockburn Stewart, that their ships would discontinue their service to the Seychelles in January of 1882 if a lighthouse was not erected on either one of the two islands on the northern rim of the Seychelles bank (Bird Island or Denis Island). Their concern was the dangerous shallows and treacherous breakers that exist in the vicinity of these islands, which rendered night navigation hazardous.

Aware of the potential dire effects that such an eventuality could have on the economy of the archipelago, Chief Civil Commissioner Stewart could not ignore the warning. It was mainly the steamships of Messageries Maritime that brought passengers, goods and mail to the Seychelles, and took the country’s agricultural produce abroad to the export markets.

No time was wasted in deciding which of the two islands would be the ideal place for a lighthouse. Denis Island was chosen. This low-lying 350 acre sand cay, nearly two kilometres long and one kilometre wide, at the northern edge of the Seychelles bank was discovered by Jean François Denis de Keredern, Comte de Trobrian on 11 August 1773. With a general elevation of two metres (eight feet) above the sea level, the island had a thick layer of guano that covered the surface of the phosphatic sandstone in many places. Casuarina trees grew inside the coastal fringe of veloutier, and besides the coconut palms, takamaka and badamier were the main features of the island.

The obligation to build a lighthouse on the coralline island, far away from Mahé, came at an inopportune moment for the colonial administration of Seychelles which was ruled as a Dependency of Mauritius. Almost a decade earlier, in 1872, a board of Civil Commissioners, and the country’s finances were separated from those of Mauritius – in preparation for Seychelles to be given complete colonial autonomy by 1903.

In 1881, Henry Cockburn Stewart was temporarily replacing Francis Theophilus Blunt who had passed away in February. Even though the boom in vanilla production, together with the export of thousands of hectolitres of coconut oil was bringing in a considerable amount of revenue, the 37-year-old acting Chief Civil Commissioner found that handling and managing the country’s earnings and expenditures meant walking on thin ice.

And the cost of constructing a lighthouse which entailed the assistance of a mechanical engineer, the expert counsel of a builder, the work of labourers, and above all, the site for the infrastructure, had not been contemplated.

Nevertheless, to appease the Messageries Maritimes concern, work began in August under the supervision of the

TheLighthouseof Denis Island

Tony Mathiot tells the story of one of the oldest lighthouses in the Seychelles.

Phot

os b

y To

ny M

athi

ot

Page 90: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 • 89

superintendent of public works and the government surveyor, Jules Cauvin. It was decided that the

lighthouse should be situated on the northern headland of the island. An acre of land was leased from the guano company, but building

the lighthouse on Denis Island was beset with difficulties. On the 10th of December, a tower of coral stones that had reached 12 metres (40 feet) foundered, causing severe injury to several labourers and prisoners who had been working on it.

Consequently, work was suspended pending a commission of enquiry into the incident. In February 1882, Arthur Cecil Stuart Barkly arrived to assume his duties as the Chief Civil Commissioner. In spite of being preoccupied with other aspects of his administration – including having to handle a petition from a group of inhabitants

who were asking for the Seychelles remain a Dependency of Mauritius, and the establishment of secular education – the erection of the Denis Island lighthouse remained an imperative feature on his colonial agenda. Increasing maritime traffic in the Indian Ocean maintained regular contact between Seychelles and the outside world. During 1881, 76 vessels had dropped anchor in Port Victoria which had received its lighthouse in 1876.

However, work on the construction of the lighthouse remained in abeyance throughout 1882. The ‘accident’ of 1881 was ascribed to the gross

negligence of the superintendent of P.W.D, Jules Cauvin, whose imprudence in allowing a heavy tower of coral stone to be constructed on the sandy soil of Denis Island had nearly been fatal to the workers. Moreover, Cauvin was accused of flogging prisoners.

Barkly informed the Secretary of State for the colonies of his discontentment with Cauvin and requested that an officer from the Surveyor General’s Department be sent to take charge of the P.W.D. Cauvin resigned in December 1882.

It is clear from the copious correspondence that the Chief Civil Commissioner dispatched to his superior in Mauritius, that he was eager to accomplish the erection of the lighthouse on Denis Island. In one of his reports on the subject, he advised against the erection of a stone structure and recommended that instead, ‘the lattice work principle in much use in America and which was employed in temporarily repairing the Grand River Bridge in Mauritius, after the hurricane of 1868’ would be suitable. He even enclosed a cutting from an American newspaper.

Early in 1883, work resumed. The wooden tripod arrived from Mauritius and, by April, the lantern was fixed on top. Denis Island now had its lighthouse, and it was approximately 17 metres (55 feet) high. Forty-one vessels arrived at Mahé during that year – among them the habitual steamers of the Messageries Maritimes; Alphee, Erymanthe, l’Imperatice, Denaii Camdodge, and Hydaspe.

In December 1885, the acting chief Civil Commissioner, Georges Hollier Griffith wrote to the Governor of Mauritius. Sir John Pope Hennessey regarding the dilapidated state of the tripod. He suggested that a new structure of capucin wood be constructed on the outside of the rotten one, instead of demolishing it, which would necessitate the discontinuation of the show of light for an indefinite period – after which the light apparatus would be transferred to it.

Years passed, and besides slight reparation work to the decrepit structure, the major overhaul that it urgently required remained merely an elaborately written proposal.

Eventually the administrator, Thomas Risely Griffith recommended the construction of a masonry tower: ”it would be money better laid out in the interests of the Dependency to spend SEZ Rupees14,000 for a stone Lighthouse than about GBP 800, in adding three more wooden legs to the present structure ...” However, Griffith’s views were ignored.

In 1892, a new Lighthouse measuring 20 metres (66 feet) high was constructed with hard wood timbers. On 20 December 1893, the new Denis Island lighthouse was illuminated and the light was visible at a distance of almost 22 kilometres (12 miles) at all points of the compass.

However, the tropical climate has an insidious way of taking its toll on even the most durable timber, even capucin, so that in March 1907, governor Walter Edward Davison reported to the Secretary of

In 1892, a new

Lighthouse

measuring 20

metres (66

feet) high was

constructed with

hard wood timbers.

Page 91: sil22no2

• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 2 •90

State for the Colonies on the ‘unsound state’ of the Lighthouse structure on Denis island and strongly recommended that a new Lighthouse be constructed with a steel tripod that would bear the weight of two tonnes. Admired for his intuitive knack in practical matters, Davidson expressed his concern about the fact that he felt it unfair for the colony of Seychelles to bear the full cost of a new Lighthouse which would serve not only ships that come to Victoria harbour, but also ships on their ocean journeys going elsewhere. He therefore, made a request to the Secretary of State, the Earl of Elgin and Kincadine, for Seychelles to apply for a grant-in-aid contribution of £ 400 from Trinity House towards the cost of reconstruction of the Denis Island Lighthouse. Trinity House was a corporation in charge of the lighthouses, lightships and buoys of England and Wales. Founded in the 16th century, it had its headquarters in London.

To ascertain the condition of the lighthouse, Davidson sent a team to visit Denis Island and examine the structure. They returned to Mahé with urgent recommendations. In April of 1908, the firm Messrs Baty, Bergne and company. proposed to supply and erect a steel tripod of 22 metres (72 feet) in height to carry the lantern and staircase, at a cost of SEZ Rupees 10,600. Davidson declined their offer. A few months later, after a lengthy consultation with his Executive Council, the Governor was rewarded with the best of all possible proposals that would give Denis Island a lighthouse that would last indefinitely.

During 1909 the labourers worked in the scorching sun of Denis Island. The excavation work for the foundation was tough. Gradually a majestic structure of tubular steel began to sprout, nine metres … 21 metres … 26 metres. A small store had been carried to Denis Island and erected for storing materials for the construction of the lighthouse. The materials were brought by a steamer of the German East African Line which arrived on 22 May 1908. The iron fittings came from France, furnished by the firm Barbier, Bernard and Turenne at a cost of SEZ Rupees 32,490. It was in August 1910, that the lighthouse was completed with the assistance of J.H. Brown, a mechanical engineer from Trinity House. The project was expected to cost at least SEZ Rupees 340,000 but instead, the precise sum spent on it was SEZ Rupees 359,983.35cts. The lantern of collodian mantles with flashing light of

70,000 candles intensity came from the English firm, Chance Brothers. It was a revolving device with vapourised kerosene as illuminant. The flashing light was visible at 46 kilometres (25 miles).

As for the old lighthouse of dilapidated capucin timber, it was dismantled and re-erected on Mamelles Island, where it was lit for passing ships for the first time on 15 December 1911.

So, during the next century, the lighthouse of Denis Island sent its light over the sea, winking comfortingly at ships on the ocean all around, as the lantern revolved in its mercury trough. Over the years, its steel tripod was painted regularly, and the lighting apparatus meticulously inspected and maintained. The casuarina trees on the island are regularly cut so as not to affect the arc of visibility.

As it has done for the last 100 years, and for many more years yet to come, it will continue to advise caution and alert ships and vessels navigating the approaches to the island in good and in stormy weather.

We cherish it, like a National Monument: the Lighthouse of Denis Island. $

Walter Edward Davison

reported to the Secretary

of State for the Colonies

on the ‘unsound state’ of

the Lighthouse structure

on Denis island and

strongly recommended

that a new Lighthouse be

constructed with a steel

tripod that would bear

the weight of two tonnes

Page 92: sil22no2

E n g l i s h - C r e o l e

Hello BonzourHow are you? Konman Sava?I am well Byen MersiThank you MersiVery much Mersi bokouGoodbye orevwarHotel LotelRoom LasanmBed LiliFood ManzeCoffee KafeBeer LabyerCold FreHot SoTea DiteMeat LavyanFish PwasonBread DipenButter DiberSugar DisikSalt DiselBad Pa bonToday OzordiTomorrow DemenNow KonmelaQuickly VitmanSlowly DousmanHospital LopitalPolice GardMr. MsyeMrs. MadanmMiss. Manmzel I Mon

You OuHe, She LiWe NouThey ZotWhat? Kwa? /Ki?Who? Ki? /Lekel?Where? Kote?When? Kan?How? Ki mannyer?Why? Akoz?Which? Lekel?Yes WiNo NonTo eat ManzeTo drink BwarTo sleep DormirTo bathe Bennyen/NazeTo come ViniTo go AleTo stop AreteTo buy AsteTo sell VannStreet/road Lari/SemenAirport ErportShop LaboutikMoney LarzanCent SouOne Enn Two DeThree TrwaFour Kat Five SenkSix Sis

Seven SetEight WitNine NefTen DisEleven OnzTwelve DouzThirteen TrezFourteen KatorzFifteen KenzSixteen SezSeventeen DisetEighteen DizwitNineteen DiznefTwenty VenTwenty-one VenteenTwenty-two VenndeTwenty-three VenntwaTwenty-four VennkatTwenty-five VennsenkThirty TrantForty KarantFifty SenkantSixty SwasantSeventy SwasanndisEighty KatrevenNinety KatrevendisOne hundred SanWhere is the hotel? Kote lotel i ete silvouple?Good morning BonzourGood afternoon BonnapremidiGood evening BonswarPlease come in Antre silvouplePlease sit down Asize silvouple

You’re welcome Pa dekwaWhere do you come from Kote ou sorti?I come from....... Mon sorti......What is your name? Ki mannyer ou apele?My name is.... Mon apel.....Can you speak Kreol? Ou kabab koz Kreol?Only a little Zis en peI would like to learn more Mon oule apran ankorHow do you find Seychelles? Ki mannyer ou war Sesel?I like it here Mon kontan isi SeselThe weather is hot, isn’t it? Letan i so, wi?Where are you going? Kote ou pe ale?I am going to... Mon pe al......Please stop here Aret isi silvoupleHow much? Konbyen?Wait a minute Esper mwan en pti momanI have to get change Fodre mon ganny larzan sanzeExcuse me EkskizeWhere is the toilet? Kote kabinen i ete sivouple?In the back Deryer lakourWhere may I get a drink? Kote mon kapab ganny en keksoz pou bwar?

How much does this cost? Konbyen i vann?That’s quite expensive I ase serHelp! Ed mwan! / O Sekour!No, thanks Non, mersiPlease SilvoupleYou’re welcome Pa-de-kwaNo problem Napa problenmOk okeThat’s right! Wi i bien!A little bit Piti pitiIs everything ok? Tou keksoz i oke?Not now Pa kounye-aAttention/watch out! Atansyon!We are looking for... Nou pe rodI’m very thirsty Mon swaf I am hungry Mon lafenWhere are we? Kote nou ete?How old are you? Ki laz ou anan?What do you need? Ki ou bezwen?What do they call that in Creole? Koman zot dir sa an Kreol?How do they say... in creole? Koman zot dir an Kreol ?

Page 93: sil22no2
Page 94: sil22no2

H e a l t hy Tra v e l l i n g

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness

or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health

conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Knee lifts: Lift leg with knees bent while contracting your thigh muscles. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.

Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Then lift heels high, keeping the balls of your feet on the floor. Continue cycle in 30-second intervals.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

OTHER TIPS FOR A COMFORTABLE FLIGHT

• For your own comfort try and travel light.

• Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

• Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

• Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.

• Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

• Avoid heavy meals during the flight.

• Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.

• Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

• On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

• On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Air Seychelles disclaim any responsibility in the unlikely event that you may suffer an injury as a direct result of these gently exercises.

Page 95: sil22no2

The B767's refined design gives maximum fuel performance, operation flexibility, low noise levels and advanced control systems using digital electronics.

The B767's two-aisle passenger cabin follows the tradition for spaciousness set by the Boeing 767, first of the wide-body airliners. Pearl-class passengers are seated six abreast (two-two-two) and economy-class passengers seven abreast (two-three-two).

BOEING 767-300 ERAircraft: 3 • Seat Capacity: Pearl Class: 24 Economy Class: 215; Total 239Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 184,612 kgsCruising Speed: Up to 540 mph (870 kph) at 35,000 ftLength: 180ft 3in (54.94 m) Width: 156ft 4in (47.65 m)Fuel Capacity: 73,500 kgsRange: 5600 nautical miles (10,371 km)Engines: General Electric CF6-80C2B6FSea Level Thrust: 60,800 lbs (27,511 kgs)

SHORTS 360-300Aircraft: 1 • Seat Capacity: Total 36Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 12,292 kgsRange: 630 nautical miles (1,165.5 km)Engines: Pratt and Witney PT 6A-67RSea Level Thrust: SHP 1281

DHC-6 (TWIN OTTER)Aircraft: 4 • Seat Capacity: Total 20Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 5,669 kgs;Range: 490 nautical miles ( 907.5 km) Engines: Pratt and Witney PT 6A-27Sea Level Thrust: SHP 680

F l e e t

Passengers: 245-270 seats (two classes) Range: 14,800 - 15,700 kmConfiguration: Twin aisleCross Section: 5.74 mWing Span: 60 mLength: 57 m, Height: 17 mCruise Speed: Mach 0.85 Max. take-off Weight: 476,000 lbs

A super-efficient airplane with new passenger-pleasing features. It will bring the economics of large jet transports to the middle of the market, using 20 per cent less fuel than any other airplane of its size.

COMING SOON

BOEING 787-8 Dreamliner

BOEING 767-200 Aircraft: 2 • Seat Capacity in J & Y: 18/195 Max Gross Take Off Weight: 163,296 Kg Cruising Speed: 0.8 MachLength: 159ft (48.5m) Width: 156ft (47.6 m) Fuel Capacity: 20,450 US GallonRange: 6,800 NM (12,600Km) Engines Sea Level Thrust: 48000lbs

Page 96: sil22no2

Cher Passager

Bienvenu au programme de fidélité Seychelles Plus.

Depuis sa lancée en Mars 2001, le programme Seychelles PLUS récompense les clients les plus fidèles d’Air Seychelles. Le voyageur d’Air Seychelles qui est membre du Seychelles PLUS peut accumuler des points PLUS sur chacun de ses vols et les échanger ensuite contre des billets primes, des franchises de bagages ou des suppléments en classe Pearl.

Ce programme très prometteur a maintenant des membres qui bénéficient des avantages et des privilèges de Seychelles PLUS dans de nombreux pays, de l’Australie aux États-Unis.Comment le programme fonctionne t-il ?Seychelles PLUS est basé sur un système de points. A chaque destination internationale d’Air Seychelles correspond une quantité allouée de points, que le membre gagne à la fin de chaque voyage aller-retour.

Le programme comporte trois niveaux d’adhésion, basé sur le nombre de points que le membre a gagné au cours d’une année civile.

La Carte ‘BLUE’De 0 à3999 points PLUS, ce niveau permet au membre de profiter de l’adhésion permanente au club Seychelles Plus.

Join the clubSeychelles PLUSDear passenger

Welcome to the Seychelles PLUS frequent flyer programme.

Launched in March 2001, the Seychelles Plus programme rewards Air Seychelles’ most faithful clients. The frequent Air Seychelles traveller accumulates PLUS points on each voyage, against which he or she can claim for free travel, to any Air Seychelles destination, free excess baggage as well as Pearl Class supplements.

The programme has shown great promise and now has members all the way from Australia, through to the United States, enjoying the benefits and privileges of Seychelles PLUS.

How the programme works:Seychelles PLUS is points based. Each international destination Air

Seychelles flies to has an allocated number of points, which the member earns upon each completion of a return trip.

The programme has three tiers of membership, based on the number of points the member has earned over a calendar year.

BLUE TIERFrom 0-3,999 PLUS points, this level enables the member to enjoy: Permanent membership to the club.

SILVER TIERMembers, who have between 4,000-7,999 PLUS points, enjoy Silver Tier benefits such as:• Wait list priority.• Seat selection, depending on availability.• 10 kilogrammes excess baggage.

GOLD TIERHaving accumulated 8,000 PLUS points, the members of this level enjoy:• First wait list priority.• 20 kilogrammes excess baggage.• Check-in at Pearl Class desk.• Seat selection upon availability.• Access to the Commercially Important Person (CIP) lounge.

To join the Seychelles PLUS frequent flyer programme you can:• Request for an application form from the cabin crew on board this flight.• Visit us at our Head Office at Seychelles International Airport.• Apply online: www.airseychelles.com/seychellesplus.

Members can access their own statement online at www.airseychelles. com/seychellesplus or request for their statement by phone, post fax or e-mail.

La carte ‘SILVER’Les membres qui ont entre 4000 et 7999 points PLUS profitent des avantages tels que :• Priorité en liste d’attente.• Sélection de siège, selon la disponibilité.• 10 kg de bagages excédentaires.

La Carte ‘GOLD’Ayant accumulé 8000 points PLUS, les membres de ce niveau apprécient :• Priorité automatique en liste d’attente. • Franchise de bagages de 20kgs.• Enregistrement au comptoir PEARL (classe affaires).• Sélection de siège selon la disponibilité.• Accès au salon des Personnes Commercialement Importantes (CIP). 

Pour rejoindre le programme de fidélisation Seychelles PLUS, vous pouvez:• Demander votre formulaire d’adhésion à l’hôtesse de bord.• Sur place aux Seychelles, l’obtenir auprès de notre administration centrale à Pointe Larue.• Vous Inscrire en ligne sur le site www.airseychelles.com/seychellesplus.

Les membres peuvent obtenir leur situation de compte en ligne à www. airseychelles.com/seychellesplus ou adresser leur demande, par téléphone, fax ou courriel à l’équipe Seychelles PLUS. 

For more information call us on +248 39 13 05 / 38 11 54, E-mail: [email protected].

Pour de plus amples informations, appelez-nous au +248 39 13 05 / 38 11 54 couriel: [email protected]

The frequent flyer programme of Air Seychelles

EARN YOUR PLUS POINTS AND FLY FOR FREE

Page 97: sil22no2

NOTE: Graphics representation only. Not to scale. The actual flight paths may vary.

I n t e r n a t i o n a l Ro u t e M a p

Page 98: sil22no2

AIR SEYCHELLES LTD (Head Office)PO Box 386, Mahé, SeychellesTelephone: (248) 391000 • Fax: (248) 224305E-mail: [email protected] • www.airseychelles.com

Page 99: sil22no2

O n l i n e O f f i c e s

France

UnitedKingdom

South Africa

SingaporeSingapore/Malaysia/Indonesia/Taiwan

Mauritius

ItalyMilan/Rome

Capital: ParisLanguage: FrenchCurrency: EuroArea: 543,965 km2

Population: 59,304,000Air Seychelles destination: Paris

Air Seychelles Ltd11 Rue Du Colisee75008 ParisTel: (0033-1) 42 89 86 83Fax: (0033-1) 45 63 85 12Sita: partohmE-mail: [email protected]

Capital: RomeLanguage: ItalianCurrency: EuroArea: 301,302 km2

Population: 56,210,000Air Seychelles destination: Rome

Air Seychelles Ltdc/o Via Pindaro 28 n int. 2100125 RomeSita : romszhmTel: +39-06 509 8413Fax: +39-06 509 159 17Email: [email protected]

Capital: Port LouisLanguages: French, English, CreoleCurrency: RupeesArea: 2,040 km2

Population: 1,243,000Air Seychelles destination: Plaisance Airport

Rogers & Company LtdRogers House5, President John Kennedy StreetPO Box 60, Port LouisTel: (00230) 202 6671Fax: (00230) 208 3540Sita: mrurrhmE-mail: [email protected]

Capital: SingaporeLanguages: Mandarin, English, MalayCurrency: Singapore DollarArea: 641 km2

Population: 4,225,000Air Seychelles destination: Singapore

Aviation Services (GSA) Pte Ltd100 TRAS Street #13-01Amara Corporate TowersSingapore 079027Tel: (0065) 63248006Fax: (0065) 62256315E-mail: [email protected]

Capital: PretoriaLanguages: English, AfrikaansCurrency: RandArea: 1,221,037 km2

Population: 45,919,000Air Seychelles destination: Johannesburg

Lu Dowell RepresentationsGreenstone Hill Office ParkEmerald Boulevard, Building 1, Unit F4.Modderfontein, EdenvaleSouth AfricaTel: (0027-11)-452-0244Fax: 0866578741 or (0027-11) 781-2144E-mail: [email protected]

Capital: LondonLanguage: EnglishCurrency: Pound SterlingArea: 244,880 km2

Population: 59,040,000Air Seychelles destination: Heathrow

AviarepsAviareps HouseGatwick Road, Crawley,West Sussex, RH10 9RBTel: (0044-1293) 596 656Fax: (0044-1293) 596 658Sita: lonsmhmE-mail: [email protected]

Page 100: sil22no2

THE CREOLE SPIRITPO Box 386Victoria, MahéTel: (00248) 38 10 00Fax: (00248) 22 51 59 (Head Office)Fax: (00248) 32 41 94 (Marketing & Sales)Email: [email protected]: (00248) 22 59 33 (Sales & Reservations)Email: [email protected]

ABU DHABIOmeir Travel AgencyShk. Khalifa StreetPO Box 267, Abu DhabiTel: (00971 2) 612 3470Fax: (00971 2) 622 6799Email: [email protected]

MELBOURNESky Air ServicesLevel 7, 24 Albert Road, South Melbourne 3205Tel: (0061 3) 9699 9355Fax: (0061 3) 9699 9388Email: [email protected]

AUSTRIAAviarepsAirline Management Service GmbhArgentinierstrasse 2/4A - 1040,Vienna, AustriaTel: (0043 1) 585 3631 55Fax: (0043 1) 585 3630 88Email: [email protected] [email protected] BAHRAINYusuf Bin Ahmed Kanoo W11Al Khalifa Road, Building 302, Block 304PO Box 45, ManamaTel: (00973) 17 220 800Fax: (00973) 17 213 458Email: [email protected]

BELGIUM/LUXEMBOURGKales Airline ServicesPark Hill, Mommaertslaan 18AB –1831, Diegem, BrusselsTel: (0032 2) 716 00 64Fax: (0032 2) 716 00 86Email: [email protected]

CZECH REPUBLICAviareps Czech RepublicNa Rybnícku 5/1329, 120 00 Praha 2, Tel: (00 420) 296 368 273Fax: (00 420) 224 233 412Email: [email protected]

DENMARKTarget Marketing ScandinaviaVester Farimagsgade 1, 3rd FloorDK – 1606 Copenhangen VTel: (0045) 33126055Fax: (0045) 33930509Email: [email protected]

DUBAIAsian Air Travel and Tours AgencyPO Box 65006, DubaiTel: (00971 4) 286 8008Fax: (00971 4) 283 2115Sita: dxbrrhmEmail: [email protected]

FINLANDYellow Sky LtdKauppakaarre 1 (4th floor)Fin-00700 Helsinki, FinlandTel: (00358 9) 6122 0240Fax: (00358 9) 6122 0255Email: [email protected]

GERMANYAviareps Airline Management Group AGLandsberger STR 15580687 MunichTel: (0049 89) 552 53338Fax: (0049 89) 545 06855Email: [email protected]

GREECEIntermodal Air25 Filellinon Str, 105 57 AthensTel: (0030 1) 371 6357/3249300Fax: (0030 1) 324 9152Sita: athgdcoEmail: [email protected]

HONG KONGIncola Air Services Ltd.Suite A,6/F, Wah Kit Comm. Centre300-302 Des Voeux Road CentralTel: (00852) 2866 8826/36Fax: (00852) 2527 7837Email: [email protected]

INDONESIAAviation Services co. LtdMenara bdn, 9th floor, Jl.Mh thamrin no.5Jakarta 10340Tel: (0062 11) 392 9949Fax: (0062 11) 392 9948Email: [email protected]

IRELAND Aviareps plcCommercial Office, 11 The Anchorage, Charlotte Quay, Dublin 4, IrelandTel: +353 1 6319604Fax: +353 1 6674228Email: [email protected]

ISRAELOpen Sky Limited23 Ben Yehuda Street, Tel Aviv 63805Tel: (00972 3) 795 1333Fax: (00972 3) 795 1330Email: [email protected]

ITALY (NORTH)Sima InternationalVia Albricci, 8, 20122 Milano (Mi)Tel: (0039 02) 89096106Fax: (0039 02) 316180Email: [email protected]

KENYASafari Travel Kenya Ltd2nd Avenue, ParklandsPO Box 58716-00200 GPOTel: (254 20) 3747276, 3521872Fax: (254 20) 3747286Email: [email protected]

KUWAITPan Arab Travels CoPO Box 2842, Safat Pc 13029Tel: (00965) 241 5554/ 241 5556Fax: (00965) 241 0873Email: [email protected]

MALYSIAAviation Services co. LtdCp12, suite 1302, 13th Floor, Central Plaza,34 jalan sultan ismail,50250 Kuala Lumpur,Tel: (0060 3) 2143 3755Fax: (0060 3) 2148 8499Email: [email protected]

MALDIVESUniversal Travel Department39 Orchid MaguMalé 20-02Republic of MaldivesTel: (00 960) 3334 004/3314910Fax: (00 960) 3316 156Email: [email protected]

MOYOTTEAir Moyotte21 place MAriage, 97600 Momoudzou, Tel: (00 269) 623 100Fax: (00 269) 623 118Email: [email protected]

NETHERLANDSFlite RepsBuilding:Triport 1, E. V.d Beekstraat 341118 CL Schiphol AirportTel: (0031 20) 655 4795Fax: (0031 20) 548 3778Email: [email protected]

OMANUnited Travels LlcPO Box 599, Muttrah Postal Code 114Sultanate of OmanTel: (00968) 247 80057/61Fax: (00968) 247 80094Email: [email protected]

PAKISTANSeypak Aviation (Pvt) Ltd4 J.C.H.S. Main Sharea FaisalKarachi 75350Tel: (0092 21) 454 5912/ 4536348/ 4543044Fax: (0092 21) 454 5905Email: [email protected]

POLANDUI. Sienna 72, Apt. 300-833 Warszawa, PolandTel: (0048 22) 6323205Fax: (0048 22) 6324046Email: [email protected]

QATARQatar ToursPO Box 1683, DohaTel: (00974) 441 1414/443 6002/441 9753Fax: (00974) 4433 197, 4351926Email: [email protected]

REUNIONAir France7 Avenue De La Victoire, BP 845F-97477 Saint Denis CedexTel: (00262) 262 40 38 38Fax: (00262) 262 40 38 40Email: [email protected]

RUSSIA Aviareps, MoscowProspect Mira, 39 BLDG 2129110 MoscowTel: (007 495) 937 5950Fax: (007 495) 937 5951Email: [email protected]

SAUDI ARABIAYusuf Bin Ahmed KanooPO Box 37, Dammam 31411Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

EASTERN PROVINCEAir SeychellesAirline CenterPO Box 1878Al Khobar 31952, Saudi ArabiaTel: (00966 3) 8355832Fax: (00966 3) 835573Email: [email protected]

CENTRAL PROVINCEAir SeychellesKanoo Building, One Block off KingAbdul Aiz Road, PO Box 753Riyadh 11421, Saudi ArabiaTel: (009661) 4772228 Ext 288/305Fax: (009661) 2833041Email: [email protected]

WESTERN PROVINCEAir SeychellesKanoo Center, Kilo ‘7’ Madinah RoadPO Box 812, Jeddah 21421, Saudi ArabiaTel: (009662) 2632959 Ext 121/108Fax: (009662) 2632948Email: [email protected]

SWEDENDalagatan 34SE-113 24 Stockholm, SwedenTel: (0046 8) 528 06870Fax: (0046 8) 528 06898Email: [email protected]

THAILANDTT Aviation Co. Ltd140/19 ITF tower, 11th floorSilom Road, SuriyawongseBangrak, Bangkok 10500Tel: (00662) 235 8282Fax: (00662) 231 6488Email: [email protected]

DENMARKTarget Marketing of ScandinaviaVesterbrogade 6 D, ISAL - DK1620Kobenhann V, DenmarkTel: (0045) 33 12 60 55Fax: (0045) 33 93 05 09Email: [email protected]

FINLANDYellow Sky TMSKauppakaarre 1, 4th Floor, FIN-00700Helsinki, FinlandTel: (00358 9) 6122 0217Fax: (00358 9) 6122 0255Email: [email protected]

NORWAYFlyservice TMSFr. Nansens Pl 8, 0160 OSLOTel: (0047 24) 14 8754Fax: (0047 24) 14 8751Email: [email protected]

SPAINAir Marketing Representatives S.A.-AMRC/Monte Esquinza, 30, Oficina 528010 MadridTel: (0034) 91 319 5189Fax: (0034) 91 310 5098Email: [email protected]

SRI LANKANorth South Lines Pvt Ltd400 Deans Road, Colombo 10, Sri LankaTel: (0094 11) 4740760Fax: (0094 11) 4740765Email: [email protected]

SWITZERLANDAirPass Services Switzerland Schaffhauserstrasse 115 Airport City, CH-8302 Kloten Tel: (0041 44) 220 19 00 Fax: (0041 44) 220 19 15 Dedicated phone number for Air Seychelles: Tel: (0041 44) 220 19 20 Fax: (0041 44) 220 19 15

USA AND CANADAI Penn PlazaSuite 1416, New York, NY 10119United States Tel: (001 646) 8773597392Email: [email protected]

Wo r l d w i d e O f f i c e sWo r l d w i d e O f f i c e s

UnitedKingdom

Page 101: sil22no2

TippingRestaurant bills normally include a service charge. Although not widely expected, tips are warmly received for personal service.

ClothesVery casual. For men, shorts and T-shirts during the day, and slacks for evening. Jackets and ties are rarely worn. For women, cotton wrap-arounds or shorts for daytime, cool dresses for evening wear.

Transport:An efficient bus service operates on Mahé, Praslin and La Digue between 05.30-1900. Taxis are available and cars can also be hired on Mahé and Praslin and bicycles on La Digue. A valid international license is required for self-driving. Air Seychelles operates flights between Mahé and Praslin throughout the day. Charter flights are also operated to other islands. An inter-island ferry service operates daily between the islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. L’Air Dezil operates a shuttle service between Mahé, Praslin and La Digue and other islands.

Customs Duty Free items are permitted for up to:- 200ml of Perfume and Eau de Toilette- 2 litres of beverages with less than 16% alcohol i.e beer, wine- 2 litres of beverages with more than 16% alcohol i.e whisky, gin, rum etc- 250gms of tobacco or 200 cigarettes.- Personal goods worth SCR 5000 for adults and SCR 3000 for under 18 years.For more information visit www.src.gov.sc

AccommodationSeychelles offers a variety of accommodation, from international resorts and medium-sized hotels with all facilities to guest houses, lodges and chalets on the smaller islands. Camping is not allowed.

Sports and WatersportsMany hotels have excellent facilities for watersports centres offering a wide range of activities. Some also have dive centres and tennis courts. There is an 18-hole golf course at Lemuria Resort on Praslin and Seychelles Golf Course, a 9-hole golf course at Anse aux Pins, Mahé.

Museums and LibrariesThe History Museum is situated on Francis Rachel Street, Victoria in the National Library Building. The Natural History Museum is situated on Independence Avenue, Victoria near to the Post Office. Kenwyn House directly opposite the main entrance to the National Library on Francis Rachel Street is one of the best preserved 19th century buildings of Victoria, renovated in 2005.

ShoppingLocal handicrafts include basketware, table-mats, hats, jewellery and paintings. Shops are open from 0800-1700 hours Monday-Friday and 0800-1200 hours Saturday. Some open Sunday morning.

RestaurantsA range of cuisine is also available, from traditional Creole and French cuisine to Chinese. In addition to hotels and restaurants, several take-away outlets can be found in Victoria.

NightlifeMost hotels offer programmes for evening entertainment ranging from barbecues and dinner dances to folk singing. There are two cinemas in Victoria. Theatrical productions are sometimes staged in Creole, English and French.

CurrencyThe Seychelles Rupee (SCR1 = 100 cents). Notes SCR 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500. Coins SCR 1, 5 and Cents 1, 5, 10, 25. Most credit cards and travellers’ cheques are accepted. There is no restriction on the import and export of domestic and foreign currency in the country. Banks and Bureaux de Change are authorised dealers in foreign currency. For rates of exchange contact authorised dealers for which information can be otained on Central Bank’s website at www.cbs.sc

Credit CardsAmerican Express, Mastercard, Diners Club and Visa cards are widely accepted.

TimeSeychelles is four hours ahead of GMT and three hours ahead of Central European Time.

Public HolidaysNew Year January 1-2Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter MondayLabour Day May 1Liberation Day June 5Corpus Christi June 10National Day June 18Independence Day June 29Assumption Day, (festival on La Digue) August 15All Saints Day November 1Immaculate Conception December 8Christmas December 25

Climate26°-29° C all year round. Annual rainfall totals approximately 90 inches, with heavy showers between November and February. As the Islands lie beyond the cyclone belt, high winds and thunderstorms are rare.

Electricity 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Adaptors are provided by hotels.

Tourist InformationThe Seychelles Tourist Office is located in Independence House, Victoria, Mahé.

Emergency ServicesThe Emergency number for fire, police or ambulance is 999. Victoria Hospital: 388000.

Medical ServicesVictoria has a large and efficient hospital and most islands have health clinics. Some hotels provide duty nurses. Private doctors are available on call at all hotels – contact reception.

Post OfficeThe central office in Victoria is open from 0800-1600 Monday-Friday and 0800-1200 Saturday.

TelecommunicationsCable & Wireless Seychelles (CWS), the islands leading communications provider, is the operator of choice across mobile (3G+), broadband and fixed services. As a subsidiary of Cable & Wireless Communications PLC (listed on the LSE), the company delivers first rate business and consumer solutions including turnkey solutions for major international investors. CWS’ mission is “To provide world class communication services and solutions wherever and whenever people work, play and have fun”. No one knows Seychelles better.

LanguageCreole, English and French are the official languages of the Seychelles.

Tra v e l Fa c t s

Page 102: sil22no2

DeviseUne roupie seychelloise = 100 sous. Il existe des billets de 10, 25, 50 , 100 et 500. Il existe de la monnaie à 1 et 5 roupies, 1, 5, 10 et 25 sous. La majorité des cartes de crédit et des chèques de voyage sont acceptés. Il n’y a pas de restriction sur l’importation et l’exportation de devises étrangères et locales dans le pays. Les banques et les bureaux de change sont autorisés pour toutes les transactions en devises étrangères. En ce qui concerne les taux d’échange, prenez contact avec les courtiers autorisés qui obtiennent leurs informations de la Banque Centrale ; site web : www.cbs.sc

Cartes de créditLes cartes American Express, Mastercard, Diners Club et Visa sont généralement acceptées.

Décalage horaireLes Seychelles ont trois heures d’avance sur Paris.

Jours fériés Nouvel An 1 et 2 janvierVendredi saint, Dimanche de PâquesFête du travail 1 maiJour de la Libération 5 juinFête Dieu 10 juinFête Nationale 18 juinFête de l’Indépendance 29 juinFête de l’Assomption (La Digue) 15 aoûtToussaint 1 novembreImmaculée Conception 8 décembreNoël 25 décembre

ClimatEntre 26 et 29 degrés Celcius, tout au long de l’année. Saison des pluies entre novembre et février (env. 200mm de précipitation). Les Seychelles étant hors de la zone des cyclones, les tempêtes sont rares.

ElectricitéCourant alternatif 240 volts. Les hôtels mettent des adaptateurs à disposition.

Information TouristiqueL’office du tourisme est situé à L’Independence House à Mahé.

UrgencesPour toutes urgences (ambulance, police, pompiers), il faut composer le 999. Victoria Hôpital: 388000.

Services médicauxVictoria est dotée d’un hôpital tandis que la plupart des îles possèdent une clinique. Certains grands hôtels ont un service d’infirmerie.

Bureau de posteLes heures d’ouverture du bureau de poste à Victoria sont: de 8:00h à 16:00h, du lundi au vendredi et de 8:00h à 12:00h le samedi.

TélécommunicationsCable & Wireless Seychelles (CWS), le principal opérateur de télécommunications de l’archipel, propose des services de téléphonie fixe, mobile (3G+) et internet (ADSL). En tant que filiale du Groupe Cable & Wireless Communications PLC (coté à la bourse de Londres), la société offre des prestations innovantes pour les entreprises et les particuliers, ainsi que des solutions intégrées pour les grands comptes internationaux. Notre mission est “de fournir des solutions et services parmi les meilleurs au monde, partout et pour chaque instant de la vie”. Personne ne connaît mieux les Seychelles que nous.

LanguesLe créole, l’anglais et le français sont les langues officielles des Seychelles.

I n fo r m a t i o n s U t i l e s

PourboiresLe service est compris dans la plupart des restaurants. Bien qu’ils ne soient pas obligatoires, les pourboires sont toujours reçus avec un grand sourire.

Tenue vestimentaireDécontractée. Pour les hommes le port du short et du T-shirt la journée et du pantalon le soir. Pour les dames le port du short ou d’une jupe en coton la journée et robe légère le soir.

Transport :Un service de bus efficace fonctionne sur Mahé, Praslin et La Digue entre 5h.30 et 19 heures. Des taxis et des voitures en location sont aussi disponibles sur Mahé et sur Praslin et des bicyclettes peuvent être louées sur La Digue.Un permis valable de conduite international est exigé en cas de location de voiture sans chauffeur.

Air Seychelles fournit des vols entre Mahé et Praslin durant la journée. Des vols charter sont aussi organisés vers les autres îles. Un service de ferry inter-îles fonctionne aussi entre les îles de Mahé, Praslin et La Digue. L’ »Air Dezil » propose aussi une navette entre Mahé, Praslin, La Digue et d’autres îles.

Les produits hors-taxe sont limités à :- 200 ml de parfum et eau de toilette- 2 litres de boisson contenant moins de 16% d’alcool, par ex. la bière, le vin. - 2 litres de boisson contenant plus de 16% d’alcool, par ex. le whisky, le gin, le rhum etc.- 250 grammes de tabac ou 200 cigarettes.- des biens personnels pour une valeur de 5.000 Rs par adulte et de 3.000 Rs pour les jeunes de moins de 18 ans. Pour plus d’informations, visitez notre site: www.src.gov.sc

HébergementLes Seychelles disposent d’une grande diversité d’hébergement – allant des hôtels de grande, moyenne et petite capacité aux “lodges”, chalets et bungalows sur les plus petites îles.

Sports et sports nautiquesBeaucoup d’hôtels ont d’excellents centres de sports nautiques offrant une large gamme d’activités. Certains ont également des clubs de plongée et des courts de tennis. Il y a un golf de18 trous à l’hôtel Lémuria à Praslin, et le Seychelles Golf Course, un neuf trous à Anse aux Pins, à Mahé.

Museums et librairiesLe Musée d’Histoire est situé dans la rue Francis Rachel, à Victoria, dans le bâtiment de la Bibliothèque Nationale. Le Museum d’Histoire Naturelle est situé dans la rue de l’indépendance, à Victoria, près du bureau de Poste. Kenwyn House, en face de l’entrée principale de la Bibliothèque Nationale dans la rue Francis Rachel, est l’un des bâtiments du 19ème siècle les mieux préservés à Victoria. Il fut rénové en 2005.

ShoppingL’artisanat local offre des travaux en fibre (chapeaux, paniers etc.) en coquillages, en nacre ou encore en or (bijoux et objets décoratifs) ainsi que des œuvres d’artistes locaux. Les heures d’ouverture des magasins sont de 8:00h à 17:00h du lundi au vendredi et de 8:00h à 12:00h le samedi. Certains commerces restent ouverts le dimanche matin.

Restaurants Les Seychelles offrent une cuisine variée: créole et internationale. En dehors des établissements hôteliers et des restaurants, des services traiteurs sont à votre disposition à Mahé (Victoria) ainsi qu’à Praslin.

Vie nocturne La plupart des hôtels organisent des spectacles nocturnes: danses traditionnelles, dîners dansant ou barbecues sur la plage. Il y a deux cinémas à Victoria. Régulièrement, des pièces de théâtre en français, en anglais et en créole sont à l’affiche. Il existe aussi des boîtes de nuit à Victoria et Beau Vallon ainsi qu’à Praslin.

Page 103: sil22no2

RESTAURANTS - MAHÉA LA CARTEAl Mare Restaurant Beau Vallon Tel: +248 62 02 40 / 51 21 17 / 51 21 13 Fax: +248 62 02 42 E-mail: [email protected]

CREOLEAnse Soleil Cafe Anse Soleil, Mahé Tel: +248 36 10 85 / 36 17 00 / 51 12 12

Boat House Address: Beau Vallon Mahé Tel: +248 24 78 98 E-mail: [email protected]

Cap Lazare Tel: +248 28 01 00 / 52 46 42 Fax: +248 22 58 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Chez Batista Restaurant Takamaka, Mahé Tel: +248 36 63 00 Fax: +248 36 65 09 E-mail: [email protected]

Domaine Du Soleil Restaurant Tel: +248 28 55 55 Fax: +248 24 72 24 E-mail: [email protected]

Katiolo Anse Faure Tel: +248 375 453

Le Marinier Restaurant Inter Island Quay Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 22 49 37

Le Reduit Restaurant Tel: +248 36 61 16 / 36 62 25 E-mail: [email protected]

Marie Antoinette Restaurant Serret Road St Louis Tel: +248 26 62 22

News Cafe 1st floor, Trinity House Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 32 29 99

INTERNATIONALDoubleclick Seychelles Maison La-Rosiere Palm Street Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 61 05 90 Fax: +248 61 05 91 E-mail: [email protected]

Helios RestaurantConstance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 395 [email protected]

Konoba Restaurant Bar LaungeAngel Fish Bayside MarinaTel: +248 345 [email protected]

La Scala Restaurant PO Box 962 Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 24 75 35 Fax: +248 24 79 02 E-mail: [email protected]

The Sea Shell Port LaunayTel: +248 324026/523968

Uncle Will’s Pizzeria Coco D’Or Hotel Tel: +248 24 73 31 Fax: +248 24 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Restaurant 8 LoungeGlacis exvista do mar, MaheMobile: 746808

CHINESELe Canton Chinese Restaurant Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino Tel: +248 28 72 87 Fax: +248 24 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

ZezFour Seasons Resort Tel: +248 393 000 ext. 1902E-mail: [email protected]

GOURMETCyann “Signature Cousine” Constance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 395 001

Maia Restaurant Luxury Resort SpaTel: +248 390 000E-mail: [email protected]

Chilli Bar & Steakhouse La LouiseTel: +248 344 155

INDIANMahék Indian Restaurant Coral Strand Hotel Tel: +248 62 10 00 Fax: +248 24 75 17 E-mail: [email protected]

LEBANESE & PIZZERIASahara Pub and Restuarant Bel Ombre Tel: +248 527 000

PIZZADocklands Pizzeria New Port -Victoria Tel: +248 610 888

SOUTH ASIANKannel Four Seasons Resort Tel: +248 393 000 ext. 1902E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/JAPANESETeppanyaki Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino Tel: +248 28 72 87 Fax: +248 24 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEAnchor Cafe Anse a la Mouche, Mahé Tel: +248 37 12 89 Fax: +248 37 17 53 E-mail: [email protected]

Au Jardin D’Epices Banyan Tree Seychelles Tel: +248 38 35 00 Fax: +248 38 36 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Aubergine Restaurant The Wharf Hotel & Marina Providence, Mahé Tel: +248 67 07 00 Fax: +248 60 17 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Baobab Pizzeria Restaurant Beau Vallon, Mahé Tel: +248 24 71 67 / 58 38 68

Beach Side Bistro Coral Strand Hotel PO Tel: +248 62 10 00 Fax: +248 24 75 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Bel Air Restaurant Hotel Bel Air Bel Air, Mahé Tel: +248 22 44 16 Fax: +248 22 49 23 E-mail: [email protected]

Bravo Eden IslandTel: +248 346 [email protected]

Carefree Guesthouse & Restaurant Anse Aux Pins Mahé Tel: +248 37 52 37 Fax: +248 37 56 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Chez Plume ResturantPO Box 211, Victoria, MahéTel: +248 35 50 50Fax: 248 35 50 33E-mail: [email protected]

Fairyland Restaurant Fairyland Small Hotel Pointe au Sel, MahéTel: +248 37 17 00 Fax: +248 37 16 10 E-mail: [email protected]

Green Valley Anse aux Pins Tel: +248 37 1670

The Hilltop Restaurant Hilton Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa PO Tel: +248 29 90 00 Fax: +248 29 90 03 E-mail: [email protected]

Jolie Rose 2 Restaurant Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Market Victoria, MahéTel: +248 22 54 51

Kaz Kreol Restaurant Anse Royale Mahé Tel: +248 36 16 80 E-mail: [email protected]

La Cocoteraie Restaurant Le Meridien Barbarons Hotel PO Box 636 Barbarons, Mahé Tel: +248 67 30 00 Fax: +248 67 33 80 E-mail: [email protected]

La Palma Restaurant Coco D’Or Hotel PO Tel: +248 24 73 31 Fax: +248 24 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

La Perle Noire Restaurant Beau Vallon Mahé Tel: +248 62 02 20 Fax: +248 62 02 01 [email protected]

La Voliere Mahé Beach Resort Tel: +248 38 53 85 Fax: +248 37 81 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Lazare Picault Restaurant Lazare Picault Hotel Tel: +248 36 11 11 Fax: +248 36 11 77 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Bourgeois Restaurant (Fisherman’s Cove) c/o Le Meridien Fisherman’s Cove Tel: +248 67 70 00 Fax: +248 62 09 00 / 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Cardinal Restaurant c/o Le Meridien Fisherman’s Cove Tel: +248 67 70 00 Fax: +248 62 09 00 / 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Corsaire Restaurant Address: Bel Ombre, Mahé Tel: +248 24 71 71 / 51 51 71 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Jardin du Roi Domaine de L’enfoncement Anse Royale Tel: +248 37 13 13 Fax: +248 37 13 66 E-mail: [email protected] Le Mangrovia Restaurant Le Meridien Barbarons Tel: +248 67 30 00 Fax: +248 67 33 80 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Rendez-vous Restaurant & Lounge Bar 1st Floor, Victoria House Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 32 35 56 Fax: +248 32 32 16 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Surmer Restaurant Le Surmer Hotel Pointe Conan, Mahé Tel: +248 24 18 11 Fax: +248 24 15 27 E-mail: [email protected]

Les Cocotiers Restaurant Tel: +248 29 90 00 Fax: +248 29 90 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Maia Luxury Resort & Spa Tel: +248 390 000E-mail: [email protected]

Manresa Restaurant Manresa Small Hotel Anse Etoile PO Box 692 Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 24 13 88 Fax: +248 24 13 88

Montezuma Restaurant Mahé Beach Resort Port Glaud Mahé Tel: +248 38 53 85 Fax: +248 37 81 17 E-mail: [email protected]

The Parrot Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino PO Box 550 Victoria MahéTel: +248 28 72 87 Fax: +248 24 79 43 E-mail: [email protected] The Board Walk Lounge & Bar Eden IslandTel: +248 43 63 03

Pirates Arms Tel: +248 22 50 01 Fax: +248 22 44 50 E-mail: [email protected]

Pizzeria Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Resort & Casino Tel: +248 28 72 87 Fax: +248 24 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

Saffron Banyan Tree Seychelles Tel: +248 38 35 00 Fax: +248 38 36 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Sam’s Pizzeria Francis Rachel Street, Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 32 24 99 / 32 34 95 Fax: + 248 32 43 59 E-mail: [email protected]

Seselwa Bar Constance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 395 [email protected]

D i n i n g O u t

Page 104: sil22no2

D i n e r a l E x t é r i e u r

Silhouette Restaurant Sunset Beach Resort PO Box 372 Glacis, Mahé Tel: +248 26 11 11 Fax: +248 26 12 21 E-mail: [email protected]

Skychef LTD Seychelles International Airport PO Box 450 Victoria Tel: +248 38 17 50 Fax: +248 37 34 56 E-mail: [email protected]

Sundown Restaurant Port Glaud, Mahé Tel: +248 37 83 52 Fax: +248 37 83 52 Takamaka Restaurant Takamaka Residence Takamaka, Mahé Tel: +248 36 60 49 Fax: +248 36 63 03 E-mail: [email protected]

Tyfoo Restaurant La Plaine St. Andre Au cap, Mahé Tel: +248 37 14 85

Vye Marmit Domaine de Val de Pres Au Cap, Mahé Tel: +248 37 61 55 / 37 61 00 Fax: +248 37 61 18 The Wok Chinese Restaurant Coco D’Or Hotel PO Box 526 Beau Vallon, Mahé Tel: +248 24 73 31 Fax: +248 24 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

RESTAURANTS - PRASLIN CREOLECapricorn Restaurant Islanders Guesthouse Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 23 32 24 Fax: +248 23 31 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Coco Rouge Baie Ste Anne, Praslin Tel: +248 23 22 28

Le Chevalier Bay Restaurant Anse Lazio, Praslin Tel: +248 23 23 22 Fax: +248 23 23 22 E-mail: [email protected]

Les Lauriers Restaurant Les Lauriers Petit Hotel Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 23 22 41 Fax: +248 23 23 62 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEAcajou Hotel Restaurant Cote d’Or Praslin Tel: +248 23 24 00 Fax: +248 23 24 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Beach Bar and Grill Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 28 10 91 Fax: +248 28 10 01 E-mail: [email protected] Beach Bar Restaurant Acajou Hotel Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 23 24 00 Fax: +248 23 24 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Black Parrot Restaurant Black Parrot Suites Anse Bois de Rose, Praslin Tel: +248 29 05 55 Fax: +248 29 04 40 E-mail: [email protected]

Bonbon Plume Anse Lazio, Praslin Tel: +248 23 21 36 Fax: +248 23 22 77

Bonm Ange Hotel L’Archipel Anse Gouvernement, Praslin Tel: +248 28 47 00, Fax: +248 23 20 72 E-mail: [email protected]

Britannia Restaurant Britannia Hotel Grand Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 23 32 15 / 23 39 15 Fax: +248 23 39 44 E-mail: [email protected]

Chateau de Feuilles Pointe Cabris, Praslin Tel: +248 29 00 00 Fax: +248 29 00 29 E-mail: [email protected]

Feuille d’Or Hotel L’Archipel Anse Gouvernement, Praslin Tel: +248 28 47 00 Fax: +248 23 20 72 E-mail: [email protected]

The Fregate Berjaya Praslin Beach Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel: +248 28 62 86, Fax: +248 23 22 44 E-mail: [email protected]

The Britania Grand AnseTel: +248 23 32 15

Hibiscus Restaurant Coco de Mer Hotel Anse Bois de Rose, Praslin Tel: +248 29 05 55 Fax: +248 29 04 40 E-mail: [email protected]

Indian Ocean Lodge Grand Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 23 33 24 / 23 34 57 Fax: +248 23 39 11 E-mail: [email protected]

The Jetty Restaurant La Reserve Hotel Anse Petite Cour, Praslin Tel: +248 29 80 00 Fax: +248 23 21 66 E-mail: [email protected]

La Goulue Cafeteria Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 23 22 23 Fax: +248 23 22 23 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Beach Restaurant Paradise Sun Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel: +248 29 32 93 Fax: +248 23 20 19 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Dauphin Hotel Le Duc de Praslin Baie Ste. Anne, Praslin Tel: +248 23 22 52 Fax: +248 23 23 55 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Kato Noir Palm Beach Hotel Grande Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 29 02 90/29 02 92 Fax: +248 23 30 90 E-mail: [email protected]

Legend Restaurant Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 28 10 88 Fax: +248 28 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Octopus Diving CenterBerjaya Praslin Beach Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel/Fax: +248 23 26 02Tel Hotel: +248 23 22 22 Mobile: +248 71 54 41 E-mail: [email protected]

Pool Deck Restaurant Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 28 10 88, Fax: +248 28 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Pool Grill Restaurant La Reserve Anse Petit Cour, Praslin Tel: +248 29 80 00 Fax: +248 23 21 66 E-mail: [email protected]

Port Side Cafe Address: Baie Ste. Anne Jetty, Praslin Tel: +248 71 28 00 / 76 64 00 Sea Horse Restaurant & Bar Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 28 12 43, Fax: +248 28 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Tante Mimi Restaurant Cote d’Or, Praslin PO Box 301 Victoria Mahé Tel: +248 23 25 00 Fax: +248 23 25 03 E-mail: [email protected] Touchdown Restaurant Amitie Airport Praslin Tel: +248 23 36 55 Fax: +248 23 35 66

Village de Pecheur Praslin Tel: +248 232 000

RESTAURANTS LA DIGUE CREOLEBernique Anse Reunion Tel: +248 23 42 29

Patatran Restaurant Patatran Village Anse Patates, La Digue Tel: +248 29 43 00 Fax: +248 29 43 90 E-mail: [email protected]

Tournesol Tournesol Guesthouse La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 23 41 55 Fax: +248 23 43 64 E-mail: [email protected]

Villa Authentique Restaurant & Bar Villa Authentique La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 23 44 13 Fax: +248 23 44 13

Villa Mon Reve Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 23 42 18 Fax: +248 23 42 18 E-mail: [email protected]

Zerof Restaurant Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 23 44 39 Fax: +248 23 40 67

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLECafe Le Monde Grand Anse Tel: +248 74 22 65/ 78 11 21

Cafe Le Monde Baie St Anne Tel: +248 23 21 11

Chateau St Cloud La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 23 43 46, Fax: +248 23 45 45 E-mail: [email protected]

La Vanille Anse La Blague Tel: +248 23 21 78

La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion Tel: +248 29 25 25

L’Ocean Anse Patates Tel: +248 23 43 33

Pool Side Restaurant La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 29 25 25, Fax: +248 23 41 32 E-mail: [email protected]

Pecheur Restaurant La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 29 25 25 , Fax: +248 23 41 32 E-mail: [email protected]

Restaurant Le Dauphin C/o Le de Praslin Hotel Tel: +248 29 48 00

Restaurant Patatran Hotel L’Ocean Anse Patates, La Digue Tel: +248 23 41 80, Fax: +248 23 43 08 E-mail: [email protected] Tarosa Restaurant La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 23 44 07 Fax: +248 23 43 44 E-mail: [email protected]

PIZZERIA/CAFE-BARGregoire’s comples Tel: +248 29 25 25

SEA FOODCafe Des Arts Cote d’Or Tel: +248 23 21 70

RESTAURANTS - OTHER ISLANDS CREOLE Jolly Roger’s Moyenne Island Tel: +248 29 70 00 Fax: +248 22 58 17 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEL’habitation Restaurant PO Box 910 Cerf Island Tel: +248 32 31 11 Fax: +248 32 13 08 E-mail: [email protected]

Page 105: sil22no2