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Maurice Loustau-LalanneExecutive Chairman

Président Directeur Général

Bon Voyage

Bienvenue à bord de notre vol d’Air Seychelles

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Welcome aboard your Air Seychelles flight

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et, ea voles inis moluptae. Am dolorro vendam facitatur a sed quam eaque

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ut ra parum facest rem. Miliquas es sit, tem istrume doluptam illam quatio

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fuga. Nam volo tendunt.

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Founding Publisher: Mohamed Amin

Editorial Director: Rukhsana Haq

Editor: Roger Barnard

Editorial Assistant: Cecilia Wanjiku

Creative Designer: Shakira Ahmed

Production Manager: Azra Chaudhry, London

Production Assistant: Rose Judha

Editorial Board: Maurice Loustau-Lalanne (Executive Officer)

Rukhsana Haq

Glenn Pillay

Adrian Skerrett

Silhouette is published

three times a year for Air Seychelles

PO Box 386, Mahé, Seychelles

Telephone: (248) 4391000

Fax: (248) 4224305

E-mail: [email protected]

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Printed in: Singapore

Co ve rAir Seychelles Boeing with the new livery.

C o n t e n t sCover photo courtesy of Air Seychelles.

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38 Jozi in Summertime A fine outdoor destination, Johannesburg has – in recent years – blossomed into a thriving metropolis with the best infrastructure and cultural

offerings in Africa.

42 Madagascar – an Island Lost in Time To experience Madagascar, is to experience nature in all her glory, for this is truly one of the few remarkable places left on earth.

48 It’s Springtime in Normandy – Land of Cream, Saints and Cider One of France’s best-known regions celebrates its 1,101st birthday.

53 Fish Feasts Enjoy your Seychelles experience no matter where you are.

• 4 Welcome Aboard • 6 News • 8 Discover Seychelles

• 84 Map of Mahé • 86 English -Creole • 88 International Route Map

• 90 Worldwide Offices • 92 Travel Facts • 94 Dining Out

© 2012 CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD.

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by

any means without permission in writing from the publisher.

R e g u l a r s

C o n t e n t s56 The English Public House Thanks largely to the celebrity chefs, the gastropub revolution of the early 90s changed the face of the English pub forever.

64 Visitors by Air to Seychelles Renowned as a birdwatchers’ paradise, Seychelles is the place to see rare migrants with three out of four species of birds recorded as visitors.

71 Cinnamon – a Spicy Story Take on a sweet aromatic journey through Seychelles.

74 Les Montagnes Dans la Brume

80 20 Ways to Boost your Energy Do you run out of steam halfway through the day? Are you stressed? Tired out? De-motivated? Worry not!

Air Seychelles is pleased to welcome you aboard this flight and hopes that you will enjoy our services. Your cabin crew will do everything possible to make your journey pleasant. Should you need any assistance or information, please do not hesitate to call the cabin crew by pressing the call button located on the armrest of your seat.

ImportantFor your information, use of the following equipment on board is strictly prohibited under any circumstances:• FM/AM/TV transmitters or receivers• Citizens Band Transceivers• Full size Computer Printers• Portable Telephones, (not part of the approved aircraft installation)• Remote Control Toys• Satellite Receivers• Scanners• Walkie Talkies• Wireless Microphones

There is growing evidence that the above devices generate interference that could directly affect aircraft navigation and control systems.

Hand BaggagePlease note that one piece of hand baggage, in addition to a handbag and small camera, may be taken on board. For your own safety, you must place your hand baggage either in the overhead storage compartment or under the seat in front of you. The Cabin Crew will remove hand baggage from passengers seated in exit row areas and this will be returned after take-off should it be required in-flight. Please ensure that the contents do not include any prohibited goods and also ensure contents do not spill out, to avoid injuries to you and your fellow passengers.

Infants and ChildrenCabin Crew will assist in preparing baby foods. When possible, baby cots are available for infants.

Special Meals Air Seychelles offers a selection of special meals to suit the dietary and religious needs of passengers provided they are requested prior to the flight, preferably at the time of booking. If you wish to order a special meal for your return flight, please make your request when you re-confirm your flight. Special meals are also available for children, if requested in the same way.

SmokingSmoking is not permitted on all Air Seychelles flights.

SafetySafety is our first priority. Please watch attentively the safety video or safety demonstration given by the flight attendants and read the Safety Instruction Card located in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened for takeoff and landing and when the seat belt sign is illuminated during the flight.

UNRULY/DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR ONBOARD AIR SEYCHELLES’ OWNED/OPERATED AIRCRAFT

In terms of International Civil Aviation legislation and regulations, it is an offence for any person to:

• Constitute any action that jeopardises or may jeopardise the safety of an aircraft, passenger and/or crew

• Disobey valid instruction from a crew member (safety officer)*

• Interfere with the normal operation of the aircraft

• Assault or wilfully interfere with any member of the crew of the aircraft in the performance of his/her duties

• Ignore warning signs and/or safety signs within the cabin of the aircraft

• Wilfully cause damage to an aircraft which renders it incapable of flight or which is likely to endanger its safety in flight

• Communicate any information which he/she knows to be false, thereby endangering the safety of an aircraft in service

• Commit any nuisance or any disorderly or indecent act or to be in a state of intoxication or behave in a violent or offensive manner to the annoyance of any other person on the aircraft, or use abusive, indecent or offensive language.

In terms of Seychelles legislation it is an offence to smoke on any Seychelles registered aircraft. Smoking in the toilet compartments of an aircraft is deemed a safety risk and is lawfully punishable.

Any person committing any of these offences while on board an Air Seychelles flight may be arrested at his/her point of arrival and prosecuted in accordance with the applicable Civil Aviation legislation. Such prosecution may result in the imposition of a fine and/or imprisonment.

It is the policy of Air Seychelles, in the interest of the safety of the travelling public and our employees, to lay the necessary criminal charges against unruly passengers and to aggressively pursue the successful prosecution of such persons.

We now invite you to sit back, relax and enjoy the Air Seychelles in-flight service.

We l c o m e A b o a rd

ComfortFor your comfort, blankets, pillows, socks and eyeshades are available on all overnight flights.

Personal BelongingsBefore leaving the aircraft, please ensure that you have all your personal belongings with you, remembering to check the overhead lockers as well as the seating areas.

Laboutik Duty Free Sales:Sales of duty free goods are conducted on all international flights, time permitting. Please consult the Laboutik Duty Free Brochure in the seat pocket in front of you. This brochure details the range available and the currencies and credit cards that are accepted.

Electronic EquipmentPassengers are requested not to make use of any electronic equipment that could interfere with the navigational equipment on board the aircraft. Please ask the Cabin Crew for assistance.

SprayingHealth regulations at Seychelles International Airport require that the aircraft must be sprayed. The spray used conforms to international regulations and presents no danger to your health. However, we suggest you cover your nose and mouth should you feel you may be inconvenienced by the spray.

In-flight ServiceOur menus are designed to include the wide range of flavours from the Seychelles. Depending on the duration of your flight, one or two meals are served. We offer free drinks on all our flights.

Please note:In terms of International Civil Aviation legislation, the Commander (Captain) of the aircraft is authorised/empowered to take any action deemed necessary, including restraint, of any person who jeopardises the safety of the aircraft or of persons or property on board. In terms of this authority the commander may request and/or authorise any member of the crew to render assistance in terms of restraint or action against such offenders.

In terms of Air Seychelles’ right of refusal of carriage, Air Seychelles reserves the right to refuse boarding to any person who is intoxicated or who, under reasonable grounds, is believed to pose a potential danger to the safety and/or good order and discipline on board its aircraft.

The primary function of a crew member is to act as a safety officer on board an aircraft. All Air Seychelles crew members are trained and licensed as safety officers in terms of International Civil Aviation regulations.

SeatingWhilst your seat is adjustable, it has to be in the upright position, with the foot-rest and tray table stowed, for take-off and landing. Each seat has an individual reading light, enabling you to read at night without disturbing your neighbour.

Air Seychelles est heureuse de vous accueillir à bord et espère que vous serez satisfaits de nos services. Notre équipage de bord fera son possible pour rendre votre voyage agréa-

ble. Pour tout renseignement ou aide, n’hésitez pas à appeler les membres de l’équipage en pressant le bouton situé sur l’accoudoir de votre siège.

ImportantPour votre information, l’usage des équipements suivants est formellement interdit à bord sous aucun prétexte:• Emetteurs ou récepteurs FM/AM/TV• Emetteur-récepteur de la citizen band• Imprimantes• Téléphone mobile• Jouets télécommandés• Récepteurs satellitaires• Scanneurs• Talkies-walkies• Micro sans fil

Il devient de plus en plus évident que ces appareils créent des interférences qui peuvent atteindre les réseaux de navigation et de contrôle de l’avion.

Bagage en cabineUn seul bagage à main, en plus d’un sac à main et un petit appareil photo, est autorisé à bord. Pour votre confort et votre sécurité, il doit être placé soit dans le compartiment à bagages soit sous le siège juste en face de vous. Les membres de l’équipage s’occuperont des bagages des passagers assis près des portes de sorties. Ils leur seront restitués après le décollage ou pendant le vol en cas de besoin. Veuillez vous assurer que votre bagage à main ne contient pas de marchandises interdites susceptibles de présenter un danger pour vous ou les autres passagers.

Bébés et enfants en bas âgeUne hôtesse vous assiste pour la préparation des repas pour bébé et installe un berceau selon la disponibilité à bord.

RepasAir Seychelles vous propose une sélection de menus convenant à votre régime alimentaire (ex. régime végétarien) à condition que vous en fassiez la demande lors de la réservation de votre billet. Si vous désirez un menu spécial ou un menu enfant, veuillez informer votre compagnie aérienne ou votre agent de voyage lorsque vous confirmez votre voyage.

Interdiction de fumer Tous les vols Air Seychelles sont non-fumeurs.

Mesures de sûretéVotre sûreté est notre priorité. Nous vous conseillons de suivre bien attentivement la vidéo sur nos écrans ainsi la démonstration de sécurité effectuée par notre personnel de bord avant le décollage. Il vous est également conseillé de lire les consignes de sécurité sur la fiche rangée dans la poche du siège situé en face de vous. Votre ceinture de sécurité doit être obligatoirement bouclée lors du décollage et de l’atterrissage ou pendant le vol, lorsque le petit voyant, situé au-dessus de votre siège, est allumé.

B i e nv e n u e á b o rd

ConfortPour votre confort, une couverture, un oreiller, des chaussettes et un masque sont mis à votre disposition.

Effets personnelsAvant de débarquer, assurez-vous que vous êtes bien en possession de tous vos effets personnels en vérifiant notamment le compartiment à bagages et votre siège.

Les boutiques de vente hors taxes : Les marchandises exemptes de droits existent sur tous les vols internationaux, si le temps le permet. Consultez, s’il vous plait, la brochure concernée qui se trouve dans la pochette du siège qui vous fait face. Cette brochure donne des détails sur le choix des produits disponibles, les devises et les cartes de crédit qui sont acceptées.

Utilisation d’appareils électroniquesLes passagers sont priés de ne pas utiliser d’appareils électroniques susceptibles d’interférer avec les appareils de navigation aérienne à bord. Pour tout renseignement, veuillez vous adresser au personnel de cabine.

DésinsectisationLe règlement sanitaire de l’Aéroport de Mahé exige que l’appareil soit désinsectisé. Le produit utilisé est conforme aux normes internationales et ne présente aucun danger pour la santé ; cependant, si vous pensez qu’il peut vous incommoder, nous vous prions de bien vouloir vous couvrir la bouche et le nez avec un mouchoir.

A bordNos menus vous feront découvrir en avant-garde les saveurs uniques des îles Seychelles. Selon la durée de vol, un ou deux repas seront servis à bord. Pendant toute la durée du vol, le service bar vous propose gratuitement des boissons fraîches.

Veuillez également noter que: D’après les règles de l’Aviation Civile Internationale (OACI), le Commandant de Bord est habilité et a le pouvoir de prendre toutes les mesures nécessaires pour assurer la sécurité des personnes et de leurs biens ainsi que celle de l’appareil, y compris la privation de mouvement pour quiconque pourrait menacer cette sécurité. Dans le cadre de ses fonctions, le Commandant de Bord peut demander à un ou plusieurs membres d’équipage de l’assister dans cette tâche, voire la déléguer pour neutraliser ceux qui commettraient des infractions.

Air Seychelles s’octroie également le droit, conformément à ses conditions générales de transport de refuser l’embarquement à toute personne qui serait sous l’emprise de la drogue et/ou de l’alcool, ou qui représente un danger pour la sécurité, l’ordre et la discipline à bord.

La première fonction des navigants est d’agir comme «officier de sécurité» à bord. Tous les membres d’ équipages d’Air Seychelles sont formés et certifiés «officier de sécurité» au sens des règlements de l’Organisation Internationale e l’Aviation Civile.

SiègesVous pouvez ajuster la position de votre siège en appuyant sur le bouton situé sur l’accoudoir. Cependant, lors du décollage et de l’atterrissage, votre siège doit être obligatoirement redressé, le repose-pieds et la tablette en face de vous, relevés. Chaque siège est pourvu d’un éclairage individuel qui vous permet de lire la nuit sans déranger votre voisin.

P RÉ VE NTIO N D ES CO MPO RTEMEN T S PERTURBATEURS ET DES INDISCIPLINES À BORD DES AÉRONEFS APPARTENANT À AIR SEYCHELLES OU EXPLOITÉS PAR AIR SEYCHELLES.

D’après les règlements de l’Aviation Civile Internationale (OACI), toute personne qui:

• Entreprend une action qui met ou est susceptible de mettre en danger les passagers, l’équipage et/ou l’appareil

• Refuse de se conformer à une injonction d’un membre de l’équipage (officier de sécurité)

• Perturbe le déroulement normal du vol

• Agresse un membre d’équipage

• Perturbe sciemment le travail de l’équipage

• Ne tient pas compte des consignes de sécurité, des signaux lumineux en cabine ou des instructions verbales de l’équipage

• Cause volontairement des dommages à l’appareil qui le rendent inexploitable ou qui mettent à risque la sécurité du vol

• Communique sciemment des informations fausses, mettant ainsi en danger un vol, son équipage et ses passagers.

• A un comportement gênant, perturbateur, indécent, fait preuve de violence à l’égard d’autres personnes, profère des insultes ou des obscénités.

Commet une infraction passible de poursuites. Le règlement de l’Aviation Civile Seychelloise stipule qu’il est interdit de fumer à bord de tout avion immatriculé aux Seychelles. Fumer dans les toilettes constitue un risque pour la sécurité et est puni par la loi.

Quiconque commettra l’une ou plusieurs de ces infractions sera arrêté à destination et poursuivi en vertu des règles de l’aviation civile concernée et du règlement du transporteur. Ces poursuites peuvent conduire à une amende ou une peine de prison, voire les deux.

La politique d’Air Seychelles, dans l’intérêt de ses passagers et de ses employés est de porter systématiquement devant la justice les cas de passagers perturbateurs et d’obtenir leur condamnation.

Nous vous invitons à vous installer confortablement, Vous détendre et profiter du service à bord d’Air Seychelles.

N e w s

Tourism News Seychelles Hosts Eighth Indian Ocean Islands Games

For the second time, Seychelles proudly hosted the Indian Ocean Island Games (IOIG), a regional sporting event held from 5 – 15 August 2011.

The event brought together some 1,800 athletes and officials from the Comoros, Madagascar, Maldives, Mauritius, Mayotte, Reunion and Seychelles, bringing forth the best talents in the region.

The athletes competed in 12 sports disciplines: athletics, badminton, basketball, boxing, cycling, football, judo, sailing, swimming, table tennis, volleyball and weightlifting.

Attending the Opening Ceremony was Maldivian President Mohamed Nasheed,

government ministers, officials from the IOIG regional and organising committees.Seychelles capped 57 gold medals , 24 silver and 36 bronze. (see full story on page 40)

SUBIOS – Seychelles Festival of the Sea

SUBIOS – Seychelles Festival of the Sea – takes place from 4 to 6 November 2011. SUBIOS, which has been an annual event since 1989 is expanding to embrace a broader spectrum of activities.

SUBIOS has long been a popular forum for showcasing the islands magnificent marine heritage with a tantalising suite of marine-oriented activities, presentations, film shows, school projects and image and film competitions.

The twin-pronged approach of educating visitors to the islands as well as the local Seychellois population has been especially successful. This year’s theme is Wonders Beneath the Waves.

The Festival of the Sea will retain certain traditional elements such as the popular Film & Image Competition while embracing several new concepts in a venue on the beachfront at Beau Vallon against a backdrop of a flotilla of decorated boats. Plans include importing a giant inflatable whale and octopus, organising a schools’ raft-building competition and race, arranging for a choice of floating eateries as well as food-stalls with a seafood theme and a raft of other entertainment options, competitions and live music shows. Courtesy of STB

Second Carnaval International de Victoria, 2 – 4 March 2012

Throughout its history and to this very day, Seychelles has continued to be a melting pot of peoples from the four corners of the earth and who have contributed their particular thread to the fabric of this vibrant yet peaceful society, adding to it and being, themselves, subtly transformed in return.

Against this background of multi-culturism, diversity and the coming together of peoples, it is fitting that Seychelles should be, once again,

the focal point of an annual Carnaval des Carnavals, bringing representatives from the world’s best carnivals to Seychelles to participate in three days of celebration alongside cultural groups from the Community of nations.

This dynamic event will be an ideal forum for each participating country to raise its profile by showing off its own individual colours, culture and people to the world’s press and, also contribute to the new melting pot of the Carnaval des Carnavals.Courtesy of STB

International Sales Office Opened at the Airport

Air Seychelles has opened a new Sales and Reservation office at the Seychelles International Airport with the aim of boosting our customer service delivery. In addition to normal ticketing and handling reservations, the office will offer customer services to passengers and clients. The opening hours are: Monday to Friday 7 am to 7 pm and Saturday 8 am to 12 noon. In line with our aim of boosting customer service delivery we have also revamped the Ticketing office situated at the Domestic Terminal, operating for longer hours to handle customer queries.

GSA Appointed in Finland

Air Seychelles has signed up a new general sales agent in Finland. Airtouch will now look after ‘HM’s’ interests and in particular promote travel to the islands via the European gateways of London, Paris, Milan and Rome, which can be reached with flights from Helsinki on a daily basis. The long and harsh winters in Finland make the all-year-summer destination of the Seychelles a dream come true for many wishing to escape the cold and the dark, which engulf Finland during the months between November and March each year, and special fares will be on offer to make a holiday in Seychelles attractive for the Scandinavians.

Codeshare renewed with Air France

Seychelles’ tourism development will benefit from the signing of a renewed joint air services agreement between Air France and Air Seychelles, effective from June this year.

The agreement was signed between Air Seychelles

Executive Chairman, Maurice Loustau-Lalanne, and Air France’s Senior Vice President for International Affairs and Alliances, Dominique Patry, at the Air Seychelles head office at Seychelles International Airport.

All flights are operated with the Air Seychelles B767 aircraft but with a dual flight number attached to the service, reflecting the Air France codeshare on the flight.

Paris, and the French market, remains a key pillar for the Seychelles tourism industry and with the entire population being trilingual, including French, the archipelago remains a firm favourite with holiday makers and in particular honeymooners, as increasing sales in France demonstrate.

The flight notably operates nonstop between Paris and Mahe and cuts down on connection flights.

Air Seychelles distributed cheery sticks to the public at several sports venues during the Games.

Silhouette Vol 22 No 3.indd 7 8/18/11 10:07:26 AM

8 DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS

DiscoverSeychelles

Far from any continental land mass, the islands of Seychelles have long been likened to a string of pearls set in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean. No wonder that the slogan of this proud nation, one of the world’s prime holiday destinations, is ‘Not just another place, another world ‘. And it is delivered with an invitation that no normal person can resist, an invitation to ‘Discover the Islands’, which lie just four degrees south of the Equator and are literally 1,000 miles from anywhere.

As the world becomes ever smaller, Seychelles is becoming increasingly accessible to holiday-makers from around the globe. With the greatest of ease, Air Seychelles whisks an ever increasing number of visitors from Europe, Africa, the Far East and the Middle East to sample the many and varied delights of the islands. Within these few square kilometres is a land of colourful contrasts; the bleached granite rocks, thrusting up from the sea like the peaks of a sunken mountain range lie in the shadow of lush tropical vegetation clinging to steep mountain sides. In the middle of a beach of white coral sand, a sudden upthrust of granite resembles a scene from the film 2001: A Space Odyssey.

The people of the islands reflect these same dramatic contrasts. A description of a typical Seychellois is impossible; their ancestors include British and French seamen, freed African slaves, and Indian and Chinese merchants. Their skin tone can be fair or dark, their hair blonde or black, their eyes blue or brown. But they all share a gentle and cheerful character, combined with a nature as warm and welcoming as their island home.

Eloignées de toute masse continentale, les îles Seychelles ont longtemps été comparées à un chapelet de perles dans les eaux bleues de l’océan indien. Pas étonnant que le slogan de cette fière nation, dont le pays est l’une des destinations de vacances les plus prisées dans le monde, soit ‘Pas juste un autre endroit, un autre monde’. Et celui-ci s’accompagne d’une invitation à laquelle aucune personne normalement constituée ne peut résister, une invitation ‘à la découverte des îles’, situées à seulement quatre degrés de latitude en dessous de l’équateur et littéralement à mille lieues de tout autre endroit.

Au fur et à mesure que le monde rétrécit, les Seychelles deviennent de plus en plus accessibles aux agences de voyage et aux tours opérateurs du monde entier. Air Seychelles emmène ainsi chaque année avec la plus grande facilité un nombre croissant de visiteurs d’Europe, d’Afrique, du Proche Orient et de l’extrême Orient pour goûter aux délices nombreux et variés de ces îles. Parmi ces quelques kilomètres carrés de terres se trouve un pays de contrastes colorés: les rochers de granite , surgissant de la mer comme les pics d’une chaîne de montagnes engloutie, gisent dans l’ombre d’une végétation tropicale luxuriante s’accrochant jusqu’aux versants abrupts des montagnes. Au milieu d’une plage de sable corallien blanc, la présence d’un monolithe de granite fait penser à une scène du célèbre film: 2001, Odyssée de l’Espace.

Les gens qui peuplent ces îles montrent un contraste tout aussi saisissant. Décrire un Seychellois typique est ainsi impossible, car leurs ancêtres sont des marins français et britanniques, des esclaves africains affranchis, des marchands indiens et chinois. Le teint de peau des Seychellois peut être aussi bien clair que foncé, leurs cheveux blonds ou bruns, leurs yeux bleus ou marrons. Mais ils partagent tous un même caractère doux et gai, ainsi qu’une façon d’être aussi chaleureuse et accueillante que leurs îles natales.

A la Découvertedes îles


History of Seychelles

The history of Seychelles could have come straight out of a story book: a tale of intrepid explorers, fearsome pirates and brutal battles for the islands’ bountiful treasures. The first serious exploration took place only in 1742, but early navigators, such as the Indonesians and Arabs, probably arrived before this time in search of fresh water and food. These visitors did not leave physical evidence of their passing, unless it was they who introduced the casuarina tree and coconut palm. It is possible that Arab merchants knew Seychelles as the source of the rare and valuable coco de mer nuts and came here to collect them, keeping the location secret so that they could sell them at inflated prices.

Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer, sailed through the Amirantes group in 1503, en route from India, and might also have sighted the granitic islands. In 1506 another Portuguese navigator, Fernao Soares, recorded the islands, which appear regularly on charts after this date as the ‘Seven Sisters’.

The British made their first appearance on Seychelles in 1609 when the ships Ascension and Good Hope arrived at Mahé during an expedition for the British East India Company. They made no claim to the islands, which remained uninhabited, although they might have been used as a secret refuge by pirates, who add a touch of drama and mystery to their story.

In 1742 the Frenchman, Lazare Picault, landed on Mahé at Anse Boileau (not Baie Lazare, which now bears his name). He named the islands after Mahé de Labourdonnais, the governor of Mauritius, who had sent him. Fourteen years

later, Mahé and the inner islands were formally claimed in the name of the King of France. Mahé was named Isle Séchelles, which later became the name of the group. The origin of the name is unclear; it might have been in honour of Moreau de Séchelles, a former controller-general of finance in France, but, as he was disgraced at the time, it seems more likely to have been a tribute to members of his family who were related through marriage to the governor of Mauritius. The Stone of Possession, which was set above the entrance to the port, is now in the National Museum.

In 1768, the French also claimed Praslin, named after their marine minister, the Duke of Praslin. La Digue and Curieuse were named after the ships which visited the islands at this time. In 1770 settlers arrived on St Anne from Mauritius. They later abandoned this settlement and moved across to Mahé.

In 1772, Pierre Poivre sent spice plants to Seychelles, hoping to establish them there and allow France to compete with the Dutch in the valuable spice trade. Chevalier Quéau de Quincy was appointed administrator of Seychelles in 1794. During the long revolutionary wars between Britain and France, several British men-of-war called at Seychelles. Having no means of defence, Quincy was forced to capitulate to the British seven times. These capitulations were a form of ‘temporary surrender with honour’, with favourable terms for Seychelles skillfully negotiated by Quincy.


At the end of the war Mauritius and Seychelles were ceded to the British under the Treaty of Paris. The British recognised Quincy’s abilities and kept him on as juge de paix of the colony until his death in 1827. He is buried in the grounds of State House.

In 1903 Seychelles became a crown colony in its own right, detached from Mauritius. From 1861, slaves liberated from Arab dhows off East Africa were brought to Seychelles to begin new lives, swelling the population by nearly 3,000. Two world wars during the 20th century touched Seychelles only lightly, but times were changing fast. The embryo of the first political party, the Taxpayers’ Association, was formed in 1939.

In March 1975, a new constitution was drawn up and a coalition government established ready for independence in June 1976, when James Mancham became President and Albert René Prime Minister. Following a coup d’état in 1977, Seychelles became a one-party state, with Albert René as president and the Seychelles’ People’s Progressive Front as the ruling party. Multi-party elections were restored in 1993, when René was again returned as President, with Mancham (Democratic Party) leader of the opposition. René was re-elected in 1998, and also at the early elections called in 2001, where the opposition, led by Wavel Ramkalawan (Seychelles National Party), obtained a high percentage. René retired in April 2004 and handed over the presidency to his Vice President, James Michel, who was re-elected in July 2006.

Seychelles has a population of about 85,000. Its people are descended from the original French settlers, their African slaves, the liberated slaves rescued from slavers in the 19th century, and some British settlers. This melting pot has been enriched by traders from India and China, intermingling to produce an almost unparalleled and multifaceted community, yet one that is completely integrated.

The Seychelles’ rich racial blend is reflected in its varied culture and food. Music brought to the islands by the European settlers and played on violins or accordions has blended with the beat of the tomtom, the makalapo (a stringed instrument with a tin for a sound box), the bom (a bowed instrument), and the sez (a monochord sitar). A typical Seychelles dance is the moutias which blends African and Malagasy rhythms in a popular communal dance usually staged at night around a fire. European influences can be seen in the contre-danse, which has its roots in the court of Louis XIV of France, the Sun King, and the mazok and kosez, which are reminiscent of the waltz and the quadrille.

The main language of the islands is Creole, but most people speak English and some French. Creole is a phonetic language, similar to that found in other territories where there has been French influence, such as Mauritius and New Orleans.

French words were given a harder pronunciation and syllables which were not pronounced were dropped altogether.

Thus Bonjour (Good morning) becomes Bonzour and s’il vous plait (please) becomes sivouple.

The spiritual life of the Seychellois ranges from the centuries-old local magic, called gris-gris, to the far reaching influence of the Roman Catholic Church. Often these beliefs run alongside each other. Many local people still consult their bonnomn dibwa, or medicine man, seeking spells or potions for love, luck or revenge. However, the Seychellois are also avid church-goers and consider church a particularly social occasion.

The Seychellois are never in a hurry. There is always time for a chat or a smile. Their lifestyle is characterised by a warm, happy-go-lucky attitude that foreign influences have been unable to dampen or disturb.


L’histoire des Seychelles

L’histoire des Seychelles pourrait sortir tout droit d’un livre de contes: un récit d’explorateurs intrépides, de pirates n’ayant peur de rien, et de brutales batailles pour les nombreux trésors de ces îles. La première exploration sérieuse prit place en 1742, mais des navigateurs anciens tels que les Indonésiens ou les Arabes visitèrent probablement les Seychelles bien avant en quête de nourriture et d’eau douce. Ces visiteurs ne laissèrent pas de traces de leur passage, bien qu’on leur attribue l’introduction du Casuarina et du Cocotier. Il est possible que les marchands arabes aient visité régulièrement ces îles pour y récolter les rares et précieux Coco-de -mer, et qu’ils aient tenu leur emplacement secret afin de pouvoir vendre ces noix encore plus cher.

Vasco de Gama, l’explorateur portugais qui navigua à travers l’archipel des Amirantes en 1503 sur sa route vers l’Inde, a peut-être lui-aussi pu voir les îles granitiques. En 1506, un autre navigateur portugais, Fernao Soares, nota la présence de ces îles qui, après son passage, figurèrent régulièrement sur les cartes comme ‘Les Sept Sœurs’.

Les Britanniques firent leur première apparition aux Seychelles en 1609, lorsque les bateaux Ascension et Good Hope (Bonne Espérance) arrivèrent à Mahé au cours d’une expédition de la British East India Company (Compagnie britannique des Indes orientales). Ils ne revendiquèrent pas la propriété de ces îles, qui restèrent inhabitées, bien qu’elles aient pu être utilisées comme refuge secret par certains pirates, ce qui rajoute une touche de drame et de mystère à leur histoire.

En 1742, le Français Lazare Picault débarqua à Mahé à Anse Boileau (et non pas Baie Lazare, qui aujourd’hui porte son nom). Il nomma l’île d’après Mahé de Labourdonnais, gouverneur de l’Ile Maurice, qui l’avait envoyé. Quatorze années plus tard, Mahé et les îles proches furent officiellement revendiquées par le roi de France. Mahé fut nommée Isle Séchelles, nom qui par la suite fut donné à l’archipel en entier. L’origine de ce nom n’est pas claire. Il est possible qu’il ait été donné

en honneur de Moreau de Séchelles, un ancien contrôleur général des Finances en France, mais vu que celui-ci était déjà tombé en disgrâce à cette époque, il semble plus probable qu’il s’agisse d’un hommage à des membres de sa famille devenus parents par mariage avec le gouverneur de Maurice.

La Pierre de Possession, qui fut érigée à l’entrée du port, est maintenant exposée au Musée d’Histoire. En 1768, les Français revendiquèrent aussi Praslin, nommée d’après le ministre de la marine de l’époque, le Duc de Praslin. La Digue et Curieuse furent nommées d’après des navires de l’époque qui visitèrent les îles. En 1770, les premiers colons en provenance de l’Ile de France (aujourd’hui Maurice) débarquèrent à Sainte Anne. Ils abandonnèrent ensuite ce premier établissement et s’installèrent en face sur Mahé.

En 1772, Pierre Poivre envoya des plants d’épices aux Seychelles, avec l’espoir de pouvoir les y faire pousser et faire ainsi la concurrence aux Hollandais dans le commerce lucratif des épices. Le Chevalier Quéau de Quincy fut nommé Administrateur des Seychelles en 1794. Pendant les longues années de guerre de la période révolutionnaire entre la Grande Bretagne et la France, plusieurs hommes de guerre britanniques se présentèrent aux Seychelles. N’ayant aucun moyen de défense, Quincy fut forcé de capituler devant les Anglais plusieurs fois. Ces capitulations étaient une forme de ‘reddition temporaire avec honneur’, et s’accompagnaient de conditions favorables aux Seychelles habilement négociées par Quincy. A la fin de la guerre, les Seychelles et Maurice furent cédées aux Britanniques par le Traité de Paris. Ces derniers reconnurent les capacités de Quincy et le gardèrent comme juge de paix de la colonie, jusqu’à sa mort en 1827. A partir de 1861, des esclaves libérés des marchands arabes au large des côtes d’Afrique de l’Est furent amenés aux Seychelles pour y commencer de nouvelles vies, grossissant la population d’environ 3,000 personnes. Les deux guerres mondiales du 20ème siècle n’affectèrent que peu les Seychelles, mais les temps changeaient rapidement. Ainsi l’embryon du premier parti politique, l’Association des Contribuables’, fut formé en 1939.

En mars 1975, une nouvelle constitution fut établie et un gouvernement de coalition constitué afin de préparer l’indépendance en 1976 ; James Mancham devint Président de la République et France Albert René le Premier ministre. A la suite d’un coup d’Etat en 1977, les Seychelles adoptèrent un système à parti unique avec Albert René comme Président et le Front Progressiste du Peuple Seychellois comme parti dirigeant. Le multipartisme fut ré-introduit avec les élections de 1993, où René fut élu président et Mancham devint chef de l’opposition. René fut à nouveau réélu en 1998 ainsi qu’aux élections anticipées de 2001, où l’opposition conduite par Wavel Ramkalawan (Parti National Seychellois) obtint un score élevé. René se retira en Avril 2004 et passa le pouvoir à son vice-Président, James Michel, qui fut ensuite réélu en Juillet 2006.

Les Seychelles ont une population d’environ 85,000 habitants, qui sont les descendants des premiers colons français, de leurs esclaves africains, des esclaves libérés des trafiquants au cours du 19ème siècle, et de quelques colons britanniques. Ce creuset racial et culturel s’est ensuite enrichi avec les apports de marchands venus d’Inde et de Chine, le tout se mélangeant pour produire une communauté à multiples facettes quasiment inégalée et complètement harmonieuse. Le riche mélange racial des Seychelles est reflété par sa culture et sa cuisine diversifiée. La musique amenée par les colons européens, jouée sur des violons ou des accordéons s’est mêlée aux sons des tam-tams, du ‘makalapo’ (un instrument à cordes utilisant une boite de conserve comme caisse de résonance), le ‘bom’ (un instrument arqué), et le ‘sez’ (une cithare monocorde). La ‘Moutia’ est une danse typique des Seychelles, qui mêle les rythmes africains et malgaches en une danse populaire de groupe normalement pratiquée la nuit autour d’un feu. On ressent les influences européennes dans la contredanse, qui puise ses racines à la cour du roi français Louis XIV, le Roi Soleil, et dans le ‘mazok’ et la ‘kosez’, qui rappellent la valse et le quadrille.

Le principal langage parlé dans les îles est le Créole, mais la plupart des gens parlent aussi l’anglais et le français. Le Créole est une langue phonétique, similaire à celle rencontré dans les autres territoires jadis sous influence française, comme Maurice ou la Nouvelle-Orléans.

On a donné aux mots français une prononciation plus simplifiée et on a laissé tomber les syllabes qui ne se prononçaient pas.

Ainsi Bonjour devient ‘Bonzour’ en Créole, et s’il vous plait ‘sivouple’.La vie spirituelle des Seychellois s’étend de la magie locale séculaire, appelée

‘gris-gris’, à l’influence dominante de l’Eglise Catholique. Souvent ces croyances se côtoient. Beaucoup de personnes consultent encore leur ‘Bonnonm dibwa’, ou sorcier, à la recherche de potions ou de sorts pour l’amour, la chance ou la revanche. Cependant, les Seychellois fréquentent assidûment les églises et considèrent le fait d’y aller comme un évènement social important.

Les Seychellois ne sont jamais pressés. Il y a toujours du temps pour parler ou pour un sourire. Leur style de vie est caractérisé par une attitude insouciante et chaleureuse que les influences extérieures ont été incapables d’abattre ou d’altérer.


MahéThe main island of Seychelles is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and impressive in the world. Each of its 70 beaches has a different character; the rock formations behind them are a dramatic contrast and a beautiful backdrop for the architectural elegance of the hotels.

Mahé covers roughly 150 square kilometres and is 27 kilometres long and seven kilometres wide. Considering its mountainous interior, covered with lush vegetation, it is small wonder that the island’s original name was Ile d’Abondance.

The highest point, Morne Seychellois, is 930 metres above sea level. Even high up in the interior the roads are good. There are plenty of opportunities for walks through winding paths to appreciate the lush flora and fauna at close quarters, especially in the Morne Seychellois National Park.

The airport, south of Victoria, is built on reclaimed land. Landing there is an interesting experience – offering stunning views of the verdant island and its coastline.

Victoria, the national capital with a population of some 20,000, is spread around a large bay at the foot of Morne Seychellois and the Trois Frères. This small town is the islands’ economic and administrative hub, as well as their only international port.

The clock tower in the city centre is a replica of the clock that stands at the junction of Victoria street and Vauxhall Bridge Road in central London. Erected as a memorial to Queen Victoria in 1903, the Seychelles clock tower is today more readily associated with the declaration that year of Seychelles as a Crown colony.

A more modern structure, just outside the old town centre, is a huge sculpture by Lorenzo Appiani – the Bicentennial Monument – representing the three continents from which the Seychelles people originate. If you want to arrange a meeting place, however, the locals tend to use the Pirate’s Arms on Independence Avenue, where one can have a drink or a meal. The first hotel in Seychelles was built not far away, at the intersection of Poudrière street and Francis Rachel street. While no one street is best for souvenir shopping, there are clusters of shops and boutiques near the traffic lights

and the taxi rank, and in the arcade on Francis Rachel street. There are also boutiques in the Temooljee building in the same street, near the Pirate’s Arms and at the foot of Independence Avenue. Local crafts can also be purchased at the kiosks on Francis Rachel street and on Market street. The new Sir Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Market, which was opened in 1999, is noted for its noisy and colourful atmosphere, especially on Saturday mornings. Red chillies, flavoured with garlic and ginger (mazavarou) will give a special ‘Creole touch’ to your dishes. There are two national museums in Victoria – the Natural History Museum, ‘guarded’ by a large cement crocodile and a dugong, on Independence Avenue, and the National History Museum, together with the National Library and Archives are located near Le Chantier roundabout while the Botanical Gardens are on the Mont Fleuri Road, next to the Hospital. Departure point for many of the island excursions is the Marine Charter Association wharf, next to the Yacht Club. There are two cathedrals (one Roman Catholic and one Anglican), one Hindu temple and a Mosque in Victoria.

Then there are the beaches, the glory of Seychelles. The east coast, on which the airport is situated, has long beaches such as Anse Marie-Louise, but there are also many small beaches, some of which you can call your own at times.

Those wishing to avoid crowds will also like Anse Intendance on the south coast, but caution should be observed here and at several other beaches because of strong currents. It is advisable to check on local conditions before swimming or snorkelling. Most beaches, however, are perfectly safe, such as Anse à la Mouche, a large palm-fringed bay with shallow waters, ideal for swimming and snorkelling. There are more interesting beaches, such as Barbarons and Port Glaud, Ile Thérèse, Port Launay Marine National Park or Anse Major (in the National Park near Bel Ombre). Care should be taken with strong currents when snorkelling off nearby Anse Takamaka. Slightly north is Baie Lazare, with its dramatic granite backdrop.

To many, the king of beaches is Beau Vallon, in the north of the island – a huge two-mile-long curve of white sand with crystal-clear water that is especially calm and welcoming. Several hotels on Beau Vallon offer excellent watersports and diving facilities.


MahéL’île principale des Seychelles est, sans aucun doute, l’une des plus belles îles du monde avec ses 70 plages au caractère particulier. Les magnifiques formations rocheuses, qui séparent les plages de l’intérieur de l’île, resemblent à un décor de théâtre dans lequel se fond l’élégante architecture des hôtels.

Mahé couvre environ 150 kilomètres carrés, mesurant 27 kilomètres de long et 7 kilomètres de large. L’abondante végétation qui recouvre son relief montagneux lui a valu autrefois le nom d’Ile d’Abondance. Le point culminant de cette île s’élève à 930 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer. Le réseau routier est carrossable jusque dans les coins les plus reculés de l’intérieur. De nombreux chemins de promenades à pied permettent d’admirer de près la flore et la faune de l’île, en particulier dans le Parc National du Morne Seychellois.

Au sud de Victoria, la capitale, se trouve l’aéroport de Mahé. Le seul fait d’y atterrir est une expérience inoubliable à cause de la vue magnifique que l’on a de l’île verdoyante et de sa côte.

Victoria, avec sa population d’environ 20,000 habitants, s’étend le long d’une baie au pied du Morne Seychellois et des Trois Frères. Cette ville minuscule est le centre administratif et financier des Seychelles

ainsi que le seul port de l’île. La tour de l’horloge est une copie miniature de celle située à l’intersection de Victoria Street et Vauxhall Bridge Road près de la gare Victoria à Londres. Elle fût édifiée en 1903 en hommage à la reine Victoria. Mais aujourd’hui, elle est plutôt considérée comme un symbole de l’élévation des Seychelles au rang de colonie de la Couronne, indépendante de l’Ile Maurice.

La monumentale sculpture du bicentenaire de Lorenzo Appiani au centre de la ville, représente les trois continents dont le peuple Seychellois est originaire: l’Europe, l’Afrique et l’Asie. Le Pirates Arms, sur la place de l’Indépendance, est un lieu de rencontre populaire où l’on peut boire et se restaurer. Bien qu’aucune rue en particulier ne soit la meilleure pour l’achat de souvenirs il y a bon nombre de boutiques au voisinage des uniques feux de circulation de l’île, près de la station de taxis, et dans la rue Francis Rachel. Il y a aussi des boutiques intéressantes dans l’édifice Temooljee situé dans la même rue, près du Pirates Arms, et au début de l’avenue de l’Indépendance.

17DISCOVER SEYCHELLES THE ISLANDS DISCOVER SEYCHELLES LES îLES

Le site du premier hôtel qui fut construit aux Seychelles se trouve à l’intersection de la rue de la Poudrière et de la rue Francis Rachel.

Le “Marine Charter Association”, proche du cercle nautique, est le point de départ de nombreuses excursions. La rue du Marché est fascinante avec ses étalages de produits locaux et de souvenirs, son ambiance bruyante et colorée, en particulier les samedis matins. Les piments rouges, assaisonnés d’ail et de gingembre (mazavarou), en vente au marché (entièrement rénové en 1999), ne manqueront pas de relever votre cuisine d’une touche créole. On trouve à Victoria deux cathédrales (une catholique et une anglicane), un temple hindou et une mosquée.

Le Musée d’Histoire Naturelle, gardé par son crocodile et son Dugong en ciment, se trouve dans l’avenue de l’Indépendance, tandis que le Musée National d’Histoire, où est exposée la Pierre de Possession française, la Bibliothèque et les Archives Nationales se situent dans la rue Francis Rachel, et le Jardin Botanique sur la route de Mont-Fleuri, près de l’Hôpital.

Et puis, bien sûr, il y a les plages, la fierté de l’île. Sur la côte est, au Sud de l’aéroport, s’étendent de grandes plages telle que l’Anse Marie

Louise ainsi que de plus petites plages souvent désertes. L’Anse Intendance, sur la côte sud, fait parfaitement l’affaire de ceux qui préfèrent se tenir à l’écart des foules, quoique les baignades y soient quelque peu dangereuses de mai à septembre. De même, il faut être prudent lorsque l’on fait de la plongée ou du P.M.T. (Palme-Masque-Tuba) au large de l’Anse Takamaka et plus généralement tout le long de la côte sud et ouest de l’île, en raison des courants qui peuvent y être dangereux. Un peu plus au Nord, se trouve Baie Lazare, avec son arrière-plan de granite tout à fait spectaculaire.

En remontant la côte ouest, il est conseillé d’accéder à la plage suivante, la merveilleuse Anse Soleil, par un chemin pédestre, avant de se diriger vers Anse à la Mouche, une grande plage bordée de palmiers dont l’eau peu profonde en fait un lieu idéal pour la baignade ou le P.M.T. Il y a bien d’autres magnifiques plages, dont Barbarons, Port Glaud, et l’Ile Thérèse, Port Launay ou Anse Major (à laquelle on accède via Bel Ombre) qui sont des Parcs nationaux. La reine des plages, pour beaucoup de personnes, c’est celle de Beau Vallon, au Nord de l’île. Celle-ci se présente comme une longue promenade de trois kilomètres de sable blanc, caressée par une eau claire particulièrement accueillante et calme. On trouvera là plusieurs hôtels offrant tout l’équipement nécessaire aux sports nautiques.


CerfThis lush island is 15 minutes by boat from Mahé. Its north coast, which lies at the edge of the marine park, has a superb coral reef, ideal for snorkelling or scuba-diving. The interior is home to giant tortoises and flying foxes. Restaurants serve excellent Créole food.

L’île aux CerfsCette île luxuriante se situe à 15 minutes de Mahé par bateau. Sa côte nord s’étend le long du Parc Marin National de Ste Anne; elle est bordée d’un superbe récif de corail, et est donc un endroit idéal pour la plongée sous-marine. L’intérieur de l’île est le domicile de tortues et de roussettes (chauve-souris) géantes. Les restaurants y servent une excellente cuisine créole.

Moyenne Island National ParkAt just nine hectares, Moyenne Island may be the world’s smallest National Park. Privately owned, it lies within the St Anne Marine National Park and is the only island of the group open to day visitors. Despite its diminutive size, it is an environmental treasure trove. Some 40 endemic plants are represented, more than half of those unique to the granitic islands. Moyenne is the only place on earth other than Vallée de Mai where all six of the palms unique to Seychelles can be seen.

Moyenne also has a population of more than 2,000 birds, 100 giant tortoises and about 20 hawksbill turtles haul themselves ashore at Pirate Cove each year. Perhaps pirates were the earliest human inhabitants and graves of mysterious origin may date from this era. There are also tales of ghosts that bang on windows and doors or trudge from the cemetery around midnight, eloquently told in the book A Grain of Sand.

Moyenne Island Parc NationalGrande de seulement 9 hectares, l’île Moyenne est un des plus petits parcs nationaux. C’est une île privée, dans le parc national de St Anne, mais elle demeure facilement accessible au public. Malgré sa petite taille, c’est un véritable trésor. Plus de la moitie des plantes endémiques et uniques aux îles granitiques y est présente. Moyenne est le seul endroit au monde en dehors de la Vallée de Mai où poussent les six palmes uniques aux Seychelles.

Moyenne a une population de plus de 100 tortues géantes et environ une vingtaine de tortues marines imbriquées qui viennent pondre sur ses plages .Les premiers habitants de l’île étaient sans doute des pirates, ce qui expliquerait les tombeaux qui s’y trouvent. Et aussi, il y a les fameuses histoires de fantômes qui s’aventurent depuis lecimetière a minuit, frappant aux portes et fenêtres, comme si bien raconté dans le livre ‘Un Grain de Sable’!


Eden IslandEden Island is a private residential marina development situated just off the coast of Mahé. Featuring a range of 630 freehold title luxury apartments, spacious maisons and private villas, each with its own mooring, it also offers owners the opportunity to qualify for residency of the Seychelles.

The over 56 hectares of land and private waterways will host a myriad of upmarket facilities. These include an international marina capable of handling super-yachts up to 100 metres in size, a commercial precinct as well as a clubhouse hosting a gym and a tennis court.

The overall style of the island is distinctly rooted in the Seychelles vernacular, drawing inspiration from the islands’ French, Victorian and Indian ancestry. For more information, contact Christopher Nel on +248 43 46 000, visit the island yourself or visit www.edenisland.sc

Eden IslandEden Island est une marina résidentielle située proche de Mahé. Elle propose, en pleine propriété, 630 appartements luxueux, maisons spacieuses et villas de rêve indépendantes.

Chaque unité dispose de son propre point de mouillage et les propriétaires. Eden Island développe 56 hectares de terrain et de voies navigables. Elle abrite une marina internationale capable d’accueillir les Yachts jusqu’à 100 mètres et bientôt un centre commercial ainsi qu’un club house avec salle de fitness et cours de tennis.

L’architecture et le design de l’île s’inspirent des influences historiques françaises, anglaises et indiennes dans le plus pur style seychellois. Pour plus d’informations, contactez aux Seychelles Sandra Colas au +248 43 46 000 et en France la société Ter Cognita Jean-Philippe Aubert au +33 (0)1 48 25 93 33 ou visitez notre site internet www.edenisland.sc


• Silhouette • Vol 22 No 3 •68

Il est difficile de trouver au monde un coin plus retiré, tant en distance qu’en esprit, de la vie de tous les jours que les îles isolées de l’archipel

des Seychelles. Vues du ciel, elles ressemblent à des graines clairsemées sur l’Océan indien. En se rapprochant on voit paraître 115 îles de pur corail et granite, chacune imprégnée de légende et d’histoire. Ces îles idylliques donnent un tout nouveau sens à la relaxation raffinée dans un magnifique environnement. Peu d’endroits au monde réussissent de près à reproduire les particularités à couper le souffle et la beauté naturelle des Seychelles. Au cœur de cet Eden vierge se trouve une île privée d’une superficie de 500 acres formée comme un diamant dans l’océan et bordée de plages immaculées. Si les Seychelles sont un paradis, Sainte Anne est le joyau de la couronne.

Sainte Anne, l’île la plus grande du Parc Marin National de Sainte Anne, est située à 4 km de la côte Est de Mahé et très proche de ses voisins, Cerf Island, Round Island et Moyenne Island. Sainte Anne a été découverte en 1742 par le Commandant Lazare Picault, explorateur français, et était la première île des Seychelles habitée par les français. Aujourd’hui, cette île paradisiaque est occupée par la station balnéaire la plus exclusive des Seychelles, la Sainte Anne Resort & Spa.

De peur que les vaisseaux britanniques ne prennent possession de ces îles de l’Océan indien, une nouvelle expédition française a eu lieu en 1756 menée par Corneille Nicolas Morphey, excellent marin et navigateur dont le père était irlandais (il avait échappé aux britanniques par bateau et s’était réfugié en France en 1690), et la mère était la fille d’un marin breton. Morphey avait pour instructions de mettre le cap sur les îles que Picault avait visitées et d’en prendre officiellement possession au nom du Roi de France.

Ce n’est qu’en 1770 que les premiers colons et leurs esclaves sont arrivés à Sainte Anne de l’Île de France (Maurice). Ils y ont planté le riz, les épices, le manioc, le café, la canne à sucre, le maïs et les légumes avant de s’installer dans des résidences plus convenables sur l’île principale de Mahé.

Cette petite île vierge de l’archipel des Seychelles porte des signes de la colonisation française et britannique intervenue respectivement entre 1770 et 1794. Sainte Anne est fière de sa riche histoire. Le sol fertile de l’île en a fait l’endroit idéal pour les Français d’y faire l’agriculture dans les années 1770 et pour les Anglais d’y pratiquer la culture du coton dans les années 1800.

Un coin de Paradis Par Peter Holthusen.

Ci-dessous: Si les Seychelles sont un paradis, le parc national marin de Sainte Anne est le joyau de la couronne.

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CousinCousin Island, has been a nature reserve since 1968, when it was bought by the Royal Society for Nature Conservation and held in trust for the International Council for Bird Preservation as a haven for all types of birds including endangered species. It is a place of pilgrimage for dedicated ornithologists: there they can find the Seychelles warbler, Seychelles magpie-robin and Seychelles fody, which are found elsewhere only on a handful of rat-free islands. Madagascar turtle doves (possibly including the endemic form with the red head) and Seychelles sunbirds are also present. Seabirds abound on Cousin, with more than 250,000 birds coming to nest every year. These are brown noddies, lesser noddies, wedge-tailed shearwaters, Audubon’s shearwaters, bridled terns, as well as fairy terns, one of the symbols of Seychelles, seen on the livery of Air Seychelles. There are also interesting geckos, giant tortoises introduced from Aldabra, and hawksbill turtles which lay their eggs above the tideline of the beach. The reserve is open on certain days. Check with your hotel or tour operator.

The Seychelles government declared Cousin a Special Reserve in 1975. It is managed by Nature Seychelles. Visitors may not have picnics or collect shells. Even smoking is forbidden. A popular day trip leaves Praslin around 0900 hours from Maison des Palmes, taking in Curieuse as well, with time for a barbecue there, and later some snorkelling at St Pierre, arriving back at Praslin at around 1600 hours.

Round Island PraslinRound Island Praslin lies just a short distance off Baie Ste Anne, Praslin. There is one beautiful sandy cove facing towards the main island with a beach bar and restaurant. The smallest resort in the Indian Ocean merges with the forest and the hillside, comprising just one large main house and three villas. A board walk skirts the edge of the hill and climbs to the summit where there is a spectacular view of the islands.

CousinCousin est une réserve naturelle depuis 1968, date à laquelle cette île fut achetée par la Royal Society for Nature Conservation pour le compte du et le Conseil International pour la Protection des Oiseaux qui en fît un refuge pour oiseaux de toutes espèces mais particulièrement pour les espèces menacées d’extinction. Ces dernières étant particulièrement rares, Cousin est devenu un lieu de pèlerinage pour ornithologues. Ils trouvent là la Rousserole des Seychelles, le Fody (Tok-Tok en Créole) des Seychelles et la Pie chanteuse des Seychelles, espèces survivant seulement sur quelques îles sans rats. Des Tourterelles de Madagascar (dont la forme endémique des Seychelles à tête rouge) et des Souimangas des Seychelles s’y trouvent également. Les oiseaux marins y sont quant-à-eux très nombreux, avec plus de 250,000 d’entre eux qui viennent y nicher chaque année. Il y a là des Noddis bruns, des Noddis à bec grêle, des Puffins du Pacifique et des Puffins d’Audubon, des Sternes bridées, ainsi que des Sternes Blanches, un des symboles des Seychelles qui fut incorporé dans le logotype d’Air Seychelles.

On y trouve également beaucoup de reptiles intéressants, tels que des geckos, des tortues géantes qui furent importées de l’île d’Aldabra, et des tortues marines qui viennent pondre sur les plages, au-dessus de la ligne de marée haute. La réserve n’est pas ouverte au public tous les jours; il est donc prudent de s’informer auprès de votre hôtel ou tour opérateur avant d’y projeter une visite. En 1975, le gouvernement Seychellois classa Cousin «Réserve Spéciale». L’île éstt aujourd’hui gérée par Nature Seychelles, représentant local de BirdLife International. Le ramassage des coquillages et les pique-niques sont interdits à Cousin et les visiteurs ne sont pas non plus autorisés à fumer. Une excursion intéressante part le matin de Praslin vers 09h00, visite ensuite Curieuse, où est organisé un barbecue sur la plage, avant de reprendre la mer pour St Pierre pour un P.M.T. et de rentrer ensuite à Praslin vers 16h00.

St Anne and its Marine National ParkThe smaller islands that are most accessible from Mahé for half-day or full-day trips are Cerf, Moyenne, Round and St Anne. The best way to appreciate the wonders of the ocean is to make the trip by glass-bottomed boat, through which you can see shoals of colourful fish. Unfortunately large sections of coral have suffered from a rise in sea temperatures (attributed to climate change), although some are showing signs of recovery.

Constituted in 1973, the St Anne Marine National Park was one of the first Marine National Parks in the Indian Ocean. It now protects over 150 types of fish. Naturally, fishing is forbidden, as is collecting shells and coral. As the notice says, “Take away nothing but photographs and memories.”

With the new five-star hotel, Sainte Anne Resort, (managed by the International Company Beachcomber) the island is now a holiday paradise for visitors.

Sainte Anne et le Parc Marin NationalDes excursions d’une journée ou d’une demi-journée peuvent être facilement organisées sur les îles Cerf, Moyenne, Ronde, et Sainte Anne, au large de Mahé. Le meilleur moyen d’apprécier les merveilles de l’océan est de s’offrir une traversée en bateau à fond de verre vers l’une de ces îles. Car cela permet d’admirer les innombrables bancs de poissons. Malheureusement, les formations coralliennes ont souffert du réchauffement de l’eau, phénomène attribué au changement du climat, mais montrent des signes de récupération.

Le Parc Marin National de Ste Anne, qui fut constitué en 1973, est l’un des premiers de l’océan indien. Il abrite aujourd’hui plus de 150 espèces de poissons. La pêche et le ramassage du corail y sont strictement interdits. Comme le dit si bien la brochure touristique: “N’emportez rien sauf des photos, ne laissez rien sauf des traces de pas.”

Avec le nouveau complexe hôtelier cinq étoiles de Sainte-Anne, (géré par la compagnie internationale Beachcomber) l’île est maintenant devenue une destination touristique paradisiaque.

Ronde de PraslinRonde de Praslin est une île située non loin de Baie Sainte Anne. On y trouve une belle anse sableuse faisant face à Praslin avec un bar de plage et un restaurant. Avec une grande maison principale et trois villas, bien intégrées avec la forêt et la colline, c’est probablement le plus petit établissement hôtelier de l’Oocéan indien,. Un sentier longe le bord de la colline et grimpe vers le sommet qui offre une vue spectaculaire sur ldes autres îles.


PraslinThe second-largest granite island of Seychelles is Praslin, about 40 kilometres from Mahé. It is 15 minutes by Air Seychelles service, which offers many scheduled flights a day. By boat, it takes about one hour with the powerful catamarans that make 3 to 4 round trips rotations per day. The island has a population of about 7,000. There are several excellent hotels, including the Lemuria Resort and Château de Feuilles. Praslin is not as mountainous as Mahé – the highest point being 330 metres – but it

has similarly great granite outcrops surrounded by beautiful beaches, and a coral reef enclosing the crystal-clear waters which are so typical of Seychelles.

The majestic bays and beaches alternate with smaller ones on which, even in the busy season, you could believe you were the only person on the island.

Anse Volbert, or Côte d’Or, to the east of the island, is particularly beautiful, with its pure white sand. Hotels such as Berjaya Praslin Beach offer a wide variety of watersports facilities.

Fantastic granite masses form striking backgrounds to the beaches of Anse Bois de Rose, Anse Boudin and Anse Kerlan, where the five-star Lemuria Resort has an 18-hole championship golf course. At the northernmost tip of the island, Anse Lazio is excellent for both swimming and snorkelling. Grand Anse, on the west coast, has an equally beautiful beach for lazing about, but the waters are sometimes heavy with seaweed and, because it is very shallow over the coral, swimming is difficult at low tide.

Baie Pasquière and Anse Volbert to the north and Baie St Anne to the south have natural harbours which are best appreciated if you opt to make your trip from Mahé to Praslin by boat; the view as you sail in is striking. In Baie St Anne, you will see Baie St Anne village, where there is a bank, shops and a church, same as at Grande Anse village on the opposite side of the island.

One of the eternal symbols of Seychelles, the huge coco de mer nut, grows in the Vallée de Mai forest of Praslin, also home to one of the world’s rarest birds, the black parrot. The Vallée, a World Heritage Site, is open from 0830 to 1630 hours and the entrance can be found on the road from Grand Anse to Baie St Anne. This area is heavily protected and is being allowed to return to its natural state following ill-founded attempts to introduce non-native plants there in the 1930s and 1940s.

Paths are well-maintained and clearly marked, and a nature trail leads you to all the interesting botanical species. You can find leaflets and information at the entrance of the reserve, managed by the Seychelles Islands Foundation. To walk through the Vallée is to step back in time into a primeval forest, canopied by thick palm fronds that block out the sun. The silence is broken only by the call of the black parrot and the clatter of huge sturdy leaves as the wind blows through the trees.

In streams, freshwater crayfish and crabs can be seen, and the plants around you include the coco de mer, bois rouge, ferns, lataniers, coco marron, screwpines and orchids, all growing around the granite mass. Fruit bats, blue pigeons, bulbuls, lizards, geckos, chameleons, snails and insects can also be observed in the Vallée de Mai. Praslin is perfect to explore on foot and is covered by a network of walkways. There is no danger of getting lost as the island is so small that one needs only an hour or less to cross it width wise.

There is only a limited number of cars for hire, so if you wish to drive it is wise to book ahead, particularly during the busy seasons from December to January and July to August. Petrol stations can be found at Grand Anse and Baie St Anne. There are taxi ranks at the airport. Taxis can be called by telephone from most hotels and the airport (tel: 4284666). Fares increase slightly at night.

A bus service runs between 0530 and 1900 hours, with a special Sunday service. You can also take a bus that passes the Vallée de Mai entrance. For souvenir shopping, there are boutiques in all the main hotels. Barclays Bank is at Baie St Anne (tel: 4232218), with a branch at Grande Anse open Mondays to Fridays from 0830 to1230 hours.

There are regular boat excursions to smaller islands such as St Pierre, a tiny rock island that is popular for its rich coral reef. The area is particularly favourable for underwater photography. You can organise a boat from Praslin to take you out in the morning and pick you up again in the evening. Coco is also another attractive destination for tourists; it is a deserted tiny island of rocks and boulders with a few palm trees and an exceptional marine life.

There are good restaurants on Praslin if you wish to have a meal away from your hotel.

PraslinSituée à 40 kilomètres à l’Est de Mahé, Praslin est la deuxième plus grande île des Seychelles. Elle a une population d’environ 7,000 habitants. Les deux îles sont reliées par un service régulier d’Air Seychelles qui assure beaucoup de une quinzaine devols journaliers d’une durée de 15 minutes chacun. Le trajet par bateau (trois ou quatre aller-retours par jour) dure environ une heure .

Plusieurs hôtels de grande qualité sont installés à Praslin, parmi lesquels le Lémuria et le Château de Feuilles.

Le relief de Praslin, dont le sommet le plus haut n’atteint que 427 mètres, n’est pas aussi accidenté que celui de Mahé mais il comporte des formations granitiques semblables, entourées de plages merveilleuses et d’une barrière de corail aux eaux cristallines qui font la gloire des Seychelles.

Baies et plages majestueuses alternent avec de plus petites baies dans lesquelles, même en pleine saison touristique, on a l’impression d’être seul.

L’Anse Volbert, ou Côte d’or, sur la côte est, est particulièrement belle avec ses plages d’une blancheur éclatante. Les hôtels, tels que le Berjaya Praslin Beach offrent une grande variété de sports nautiques.

Des masses granitiques spectaculaires forment un arrière-plan qui contraste avec les plages de l’Anse Bois de Rose, l’Anse Boudin et l’Anse Kerlan où se trouve le nouvel Hôtel cinq étoiles Lémuria. Un golf de 18 trous y a également été construit. Au point le plus septentrional de l’île se trouve Anse Lazio, une magnifique plage excellente pour la baignade et le P.M.T. Sur la côte ouest, la plage de Grand Anse est parfaite pour les bains de soleil matinaux; cependant, la baignade y est difficile à marée basse en raison d’une eau peu profonde au-dessus des bancs de corail, parfois recouverts d’algues jusqu’au bord du rivage.

La Baie Pasquière et l’Anse Volbert au Nord, et la Baie Ste Anne au sud sont des ports naturels qui offrent un spectacle pittoresque à ceux qui ont opté pour la traversée en bateau depuis Mahé. On peut apercevoir de cette baie le village principal avec son monument au coco de mer, la banque, les kiosques et l’église. Banques, boutiques et église sont aussi présentes à Grand Anse Village, de l’autre coté de l’île. Le coco de mer (vulgairement appelé Coco-fesses) est le symbole éternel des Seychelles. Il croît dans les forêts de la Vallée de Mai, à Praslin, où niche l’un des oiseaux les plus rares au monde: le Perroquet noir des Seychelles.

Cette vallée, qui fait partie du Patrimoine Mondialde l’humanité, est ouverte de 8h30 à 16h30 aux visiteurs qui peuvent la traverser en voiture sur la seule route goudronnée de l’île. C’est un site protégé que l’on espère voir retourner à son état primitif, malheureusement bouleversé dans les années trente et quarante par des tentatives mal fondées d’y introduire des plantes exotiques.

Les sentiers, qui serpentent à travers une nature bien fournie en espèces botaniques intéressantes, sont régulièrement entretenus et clairement indiqués. Une brochure est mise à la disposition du public à l’entrée de la réserve, gérée par la Fondation des Iles Seychelles.

Se promener dans cette vallée équivaut à remonter le temps dans un décor de forêt vierge au toit formé d’épaisses feuilles de palmier qui empêchent le soleil de pénétrer. Le silence est y impressionnant, interrompu seulement par les cris du Perroquet noir et le bruissement des palmes agitées par le vent. Ecrevisses et crabes d’eau douce vivent paisiblement dans tous les ruisseaux, et parmi les plantes environnantes figurent Cocos-de-mer, fougères, lataniers, Bois rouge, vacoas, Cocos marrons et orchidées, qui poussent entre les masses de granit. Roussettes, Pigeons bleus, bulbuls, lézards, geckos, caméléons, escargots et insectes divers peuvent aussi être observés dans la Vallée de Mai.

L’île de Praslin se prête parfaitement à l’exploration pédestre avec un réseau de sentiers et de chemins agréables. Pas de crainte de se perdre car l’île est si petite qu’il faut moins d’une heure pour la traverser dans sa largeur. Mais si vous préférez vous déplacer en voiture, il vaut mieux faire des réservations à l’avance car le nombre de véhicules de location est limité, surtout pendant les hautes saisons de décembre-janvier et de juillet-août. Les deux stations-service se trouvent à Grand Anse et à Baie Ste Anne. Il existe une station de taxis en face de l’aéroport. Ceux-ci peuvent être appelés par téléphone depuis l’aéroport (tel: 4284666) ou depuis les différents hôtels de l’île.

Le prix des courses est légèrement majoré la nuit. Il existe aussi un service de bus entre 5h30 et 19h00 sur les quatre routes principales avec service spécial le dimanche. On peut ainsi se rendre à la Vallée de mai en bus.

Vous trouverez des souvenirs dans toutes les boutiques d’hôtels. La banque Barclays est à Baie Ste Anne (tel: 4232218) avec une succursale à Grand Anse, ouverte du lundi au vendredi, de 8h30 à 12h30.

Des excursions partent régulièrement par bateau de Praslin à destination des petites îles avoisinantes, telles que St Pierre, un îlot rocheux très connu pour sa barrière de corail fourmillant d’une vie marine multicolore. Il est possible de s’arranger pour qu’une embarcation vous dépose le matin avec un panier pique-nique, et vienne vous rechercher le soir. L’Ile Coco est une autre destination très prisée des touristes; il s’agit d’une petite île déserte et rocheuse sur laquelle poussent quelques palmiers, et où la vie sous-marine est exceptionnelle. Les amateurs de photos sous-marines y trouveront un cadre idéal.

Plusieurs restaurants permettent de déjeuner ou de dîner hors de l’hôtel.


CurieuseLying about two kilometres (one mile) to the north-east of Praslin, this island of about three kilometres (two miles) long was first given the name Ile Rouge on account of its red earth. As part of the Marine Park the island is strictly protected and only a few families live there. Like Praslin, Curieuse is home to the Coco-de-mer palm. The island has a wild population of about 250 giant tortoises, brought over from Aldabra in the 1980s and a breeding scheme has been in place there for several years. Curieuse was once a leper colony, and the ruins of the houses can still be seen. There is also a large, restored colonial villa, known as the Doctor’s House, where the island doctor lived in the 1870s. Nature trails wind their way across the island, notably through the extensive swamps, home to eight different species of mangrove. Excursions to Curieuse normally include a barbecue and often a visit to Cousin island as well.

CurieuseSituée à un kilomètre au Nord-Est de Praslin, cette île de moins de trois kilomètres de long présente des coteaux dénudés couverts de la terre rouge qui avait donné à l’île son nom d’origine, Ile Rouge. Partie intégrale du Parc marin de Curieuse, l’île est strictement protégée. Comme Praslin, Curieuse abrite des boisements de Coco-de-mer. Peuplée seulement de quelques familles, cette île est le domaine de près de 250 tortues géantes importées d’Aldabra dans les années 1980. Non loin des ruines d’une ancienne léproserie s’élève une vieille villa coloniale, la maison du Docteur qui servait de résidence au médecin lors de ses visites aux malades. Un sentier à travers bois permet au visiteur d’admirer les huit différentes sortes de palétuviers qui poussent sur l’île. Les excursions à Curieuse incluent souvent une halte sur la plage pour permettre aux visiteurs de déguster une grillade.

Cousine IslandCousine is no ordinary resort. Guests arrive by helicopter and are accommodated in just four villas to minimise the human impact on the island. There are very few islands anywhere in the world that have survived intact as Cousine has done, with such a profusion of wildlife and almost none where it is possible to stay overnight and soak up the atmosphere. There may be a small resort here but unquestionably, the island still belongs to nature. A systematic rehabilitation programme to restore the island includes the planting of thousands of native trees, the protection of the huge seabird colonies and the reintroduction of endemic birds.

Cousine IslandCousine n’est pas un établissement hôtelier ordinaire. Les visiteurs y parviennent par hélicoptère et sont hébergés dans seulement quatre villas afin de minimiser l’impact de l’homme sur l’île. Il y a peu d’îles dans le monde qui sont demeurées aussi intactes que Cousine, avec une telle profusion de vie sauvage, et presque aucune où il est possible de passer la nuit et de s’imprégner de la sorte de l’atmosphère ambiante. Même s’il y a un petit établissement hôtelier, il est indéniable que l’île appartient à la nature. Un programme visant à restaurer l’île comprend la plantation de milliers d’arbres indigènes, la protection des importantes colonies d’oiseaux marins et la réintroduction d’espèces d’oiseaux endémiques.

Bird IslandA 30 minutes flight from Mahé by light aircraft gives the first stunning impressions of this 70 hectares (170 acres) coral cay. Bird Island is the most northerly island of the Seychelles Archipelago and is a nature lover’s paradise. Bird Island has just one hotel which offers guests a choice of 24 comfortable and spacious bungalows. A true haven from today’s busy world, there are no telephones or televisions and the emphasis is very much on relaxation and being at one with the nature around you. The east and south sides of the island are surrounded by a protective barrier reef which is home to many varieties of colourful fish and the rest is an open beach which offers superb safe swimming. Situated on the northern edge of the Seychelles Plateau, where the sea floor drops 2,000 metres, the island offers some of the best game fishing in the country. During the North West monsoon (October to April), dolphins are regularly observed in the surrounding waters. This is also the best time to witness the magical sight of Hawksbill turtles nesting, and from December onwards the tiny hatchlings can be seen emerging and embarking on their journey down to the sea. The South East Monsoon (May to September) also offers an amazing avian spectacle. With over 750,000 pairs of Sooty Terns coming to the northern end of the island to breed, and a resident population of Noddy and Fairy Terns, the island is an ornithologists dream. Bird Island is also home to Guinness World Record holder Esmeralda, said to be the largest free ranging tortoise in the world and estimated to be over 230 years old.

Bird IslandDepuis Mahé, un vol de 30 minutes vous donnera les premières impressions de cet atoll corallien de 70 hectares. Bird Island est l’île la plus septentrionalede l’Archipel des Seychelles et un paradis pour les amoureux de la nature. L’unique hôtel offre à ses hôtes le choix de 24 bungalows confortables et spacieux, une authentique retraite dans le monde actuel si bousculé - ni TV, ni telephone - ou l’accent est mis sur la relaxation et la communion avec la nature environnante. Les côtes Est et Sud de l’île sont protégés par une barrière de corail, refuge de nombreuses variétés de poissons multicolores. Le reste est une plage immense où la baignade est superbe et sûre. Proche de l’extrémité Nord du plateau sous-marin des Seychelles, là où les fonds atteignent 2000m, l’île présente une situation exceptionnelle pour les amateurs de pêche. D’octobre à avril, les dauphins s’y observent régulièrement - c’est aussi la meilleure période pour voir pondre les tortues marines et dès décembre assister a l’éclosion des oeufs et la ruée des petits vers la mer. De mai à septembre; vous pouvez admirer un étonnant ballet aérien - plus de 750,000 couples de Sternes Fuligineuses colonisent la partie Nord de l’île pour s’y reproduire. Avec la population sédentaire de Noddies et de Sternes Blanches, c’est le rêve pour tout ami des oiseaux. C’est aussi à Bird Island que vit Esmeralda, inscrite au Guiness Book pour être, à 230 ans, la plus grosse tortue terrestre en liberté.


La DigueThis is the third largest granite island in Seychelles in terms of population, housing about 2,500 people. It is a half-hour trip from Praslin, or three hours by schooner from Mahé. However, visitors with a tight schedule may prefer to take the 20-minute flight with Helicopter Seychelles (tel: 4385858).

The pace of life is slow, about the same speed as its traditional way of transport – the ox cart. Very few cars are allowed on the island and bicycles are popular. They can be hired from various bicycle rentals at Anse Réunion or La Passe harbour on arrival. At l’Union a fine old traditional planter’s house has been carefully restored. It used to be the centre of a vanilla plantation of which the treatment factory can still be seen. Further inland, Château Saint Cloud, built under Napoleon’s regime, is another impressive restored plantation house. On the agricultural estate, you can see furnace-dried coconuts, or copra, being turned into oil. Also of historical interest, at Pointe Cap Barbi, there are graves of early colonists from Bourbon Island (today’s Réunion). The old cemetery at l’Union is also an attraction. La Digue is noted for its superb beaches, and snorkelling (particularly in front of La Digue Island Lodge).

There are more spectacular granite formations which have been shaped by wind and sea over millions of years. Eagle’s Nest Mountain rises dramatically to 300 metres, taking up most of the island. Beaches at Pointe Cap Barbi have, like so many other beaches, a dramatic granite backdrop. The remote beaches at Grande Anse, Petite Anse and Anse Cocos with pink-tinged sand are beautiful, but beware of dangerous undercurrents.

Most parts of the island can be reached in under an hour. Among the birds you will encounter is the unique Seychelles paradise Flycatcher, one of the rarest birds in the world (less than 300 birds), the symbol of this island. In the distance, Praslin can be seen, completing a pattern of islands.

Ile Denis3°48’ Sud - 55°40’ Est, une perle corallienne au nord de Mahé. Bercée par le flot des vagues, Denis Island trône sereinement au bord des grandes profondeurs de l’Océan Indien. Havre de paix et de sérénité, « l’Ile des gens heureux » découverte par Denis de Trobiant en 1773 à bord de son bateau l’Etoile, semble n’avoir jamais cédé à l’empreinte de l’homme. Protégées par une longue barrière de corail, l’île de 143 hectares et sa plage de sable blanc bordent un extraordinaire lagon bleu turquoise où se côtoient d’infinies variétés de poissons, coquillages, coraux, tortues… Sur terre, la nature préservée et exubérante laisse échapper une symphonie douce et mélodieuse d’oiseaux marins, que seul peut interrompre le mouvement saccadé des crabes ou celui plus langoureux des tortues géantes.

Depuis plusieurs années, un important programme de conservation mobilise les énergies. Sur 50 hectares de forêt, des scientifiques travaillent à la réhabilitation de l’habitat originel afin d’introduire des espèces menacées d’oiseaux endémiques à l’archipel. Un pari sur le futur qui renforce chaque jour le caractère unique de l’Ile. Enfin, au fil des sentiers, Denis Island dévoile progressivement ses richesses, un vieux cimetière marin, son phare, sa chapelle œcuménique, sa ferme, ses projets de développement de tourisme durable.…

Familiale, romantique et amicale, Denis Island est avant tout une expérience unique, une symphonie harmonieuse entre luxe, calme et volupté. L’hôtel s’étend sur la pointe nord-ouest de l’île, les 25 villas et cottages sont dispersés le long de la plage.

DenisDiscovered in 1773, this croissant shaped coral hideaway of 152 hectares (375 acres) is a small green jewel perched on the north easterly edge of the Seychelles bank, idyllic white beaches surround the island; its sheltered lagoon provides unrivalled swimming opportunities and the crystal-clear waters harbour turtles and exotic marine life, the house reef is perfect for snorkelling. The deep waters outside the reef allow for excellent diving, game, bottom and fly fishing.

Denis is undertaking unprecedented conservation and sustainable development projects. Over 50 hectares of woodland have been rehabilitated and the dense forested interior is a haven for the recently introduced endemic endangered avian species such as the Seychelles Fody, the brush warbler, the Seychelles magpie robin and most recently the Paradise Fly-Catcher previously only found on La Digue. Other endemic species such as Seychelles blue pigeon abound. The island’s vegetable and livestock farm and surrounding seas supply the hotel’s kitchen’s requirements.

The island is accessible by a 30-minute flight. Twenty-five tasteful, elegant and secluded cottages each with its own private beachfront provide comfort and laid-back luxury.

La DigueLa Digue, avec une population de 2,500 habitants, est la quatrième île des Seychelles par sa taille. La traversée depuis Praslin se fait en une demi-heure, et celle depuis Mahé en trois heures. Les visiteurs ayant un emploi du temps serré préfèreront s’y rendre par le vol de 20 minutes d’Helicopter Seychelles (tel: 4385858). Le rythme de vie ici est aussi lent que le moyen de transport traditionnel: le char à bœufs. Très peu de voitures sont autorisées sur l’île, par conséquent les vélos ont beaucoup de succès, et peuvent se louer à Anse Réunion ou au débarcadère du port de La Passe.

Une belle maison traditionnelle de planteurs a été restaurée à l’Union, celle-çi a servi au tournage du film ‘Emmanuelle aux Seychelles’. Elle est située au centre d’une plantation de vanille dont on peut visiter l’usine de traitement. L’usine d’huile de copra (noix de coco séchées) peut être aussi visitée sur ce domaine. Plus à l’intérieur, se trouve l’impressionnant Château St Cloud, une autre maison de planteur qui fût construite au temps des conquêtes napoléoniennes. Les tombes des premiers colons venus de l’Ile Bourbon (aujourd’hui l’Ile de la Réunion) s’élèvent au nord de l’île, à la Pointe Cap Barbi, ainsi qu’au vieux cimetière à l’Union.

La Digue est renommée pour ses plages superbes et ses sites spectaculaires pour le P.M.T (snorkelling) et la plongée sous-marine (en particulier en face de La Digue Island Lodge). On peut y admirer les formations granitiques sculptées par le vent et la mer au cours de millions d’années.

La montagne dite Nid d’Aigle s’élève à 300 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer et occupe une grande partie de l’île. A Pointe Cap Barbi les plages sont, comme dans beaucoup d’autres endroits, entourées d’un merveilleux décor de granit. Les plages les plus isolées de Grande Anse, Petite Anse et d‘Anse Coco sont d’une très grande beauté avec leur sable aux reflets rosés. Mais gare aux dangereux courants!

Il est possible d’atteindre n’importe quel point de l’île en moins d’une heure. Parmi les oiseaux que vous rencontrerez figure le Gobemouche de paradis, appelé localement ‘La Veuve’, une des espèces les plus rares de la planète (moins de 300 oiseaux) qui n’existe qu’à La Digue, et dont elle est le symbole.


FrégateThis, the most isolated of the granite islands, is only 12 minutes from Mahé by Air Seychelles. Of all the islands, it has the most romantic associations with the world of pirates and hidden treasure. Some relics on the island suggest that it was a refuge for pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries. Ian Fleming, who created James Bond, was persuaded from ancient maps he discovered here, that a treasure was hidden somewhere on the island.

More obvious treasures are the abundant flora and fauna. Frégate is the stronghold of the critically endangered Seychelles magpie-robin (less than 200 birds in the world), saved from extinction by the intervention of BirdLife International. Recently the Ministry of Environment established successfully on Frégate another highly threatened endemic bird, the Seychelles white-eye (500 individuals in the world). The island boasts the world’s only population of giant tenebrionid beetle, as well as numerous giant tortoises. Despite the abundance of exotic vegetation and planted coconut palms, tens of thousands of native trees have been propagated and replanted since 1995, totaling several dozens of hectares restored. There are superb beaches, such as Anse Victorin, which some say is the prettiest in Seychelles. It is also a walker’s paradise, with wooded paths leading through plantations and groves. With the five-star Frégate Island Private Resort, the island is a holiday preserve for guests.

ArideThis is the most northerly island of the granitic Seychelles. It was bought by the Royal Society for Nature Conservation in 1973 and today is owned and managed by the Island Conservation Society. It is second only to Aldabra in importance as a nature reserve in Seychelles. On Aride there are more breeding species of sea birds than on any other island in the region, together with the only breeding sites in the granitic islands for red-tailed tropicbirds, roseate terns and the world’s only sooty tern colony in tall woodland.

The island’s warden will guide you to the breathtaking clifftops, where hundreds of huge frigatebirds soar above the turquoise sea. If you are lucky, you will glimpse hawksbill turtles and dolphins in the waters below. Seychelles warblers, 29 of which were introduced from Cousin in September 1988, have multiplied to more than 2,000.

Aride is also a botanical treasure house, being the world’s only site for the beautiful Wright’s Gardenia, or bwa sitron, and a species of ‘peponium’ that might also be endemic to the island. Visits can be arranged from most Praslin hotels, but landings can sometimes be difficult during the south-east monsoon.

The world’s largest colony of lesser noddies and tropical shearwaters further enhance Aride’s reputation as the seabird citadel of the Indian Ocean. Aride is also home to five endemic land birds including the Seychelles magpie-robin, Seychelles warbler and Seychelles fody, each found only on a few other islands.

ArideAride, la plus septentrionale des îles granitiques seychelloises, fut achetée en 1973 par la Royal Society for Nature Conservation et appartient aujourd’hui à la Fondation pour la Conservation de Iles (Island Conservation Society) qui la gère. Elle constitue la deuxième réserve naturelle la plus importante du pays après Aldabra. Il y a plus d’espèces d’oiseaux marins qui se reproduisent sur Aride que sur n’importe quelle autre île de la région. Outre toutes les espèces qu’on trouve sur Cousin, Aride héberge les seuls sites de reproduction des îles granitiques du Paille-en-queue à brins rouges et de la Sterne de Dougall, ainsi que la seule colonie au monde de sternes fuligineuses sous une forêt.

Là, un gardien-guide vous emmènera au bord des falaises époustouflantes d’où l’on peut voir des centaines d’immenses frégates planant au-dessus d’une mer bleu turquoise. Avec un peu de chance, il est possible d’apercevoir les tortues marines et les dauphins qui vivent dans les eaux environnantes. Les 29 Rousserolles des Seychelles qui furent importées de Cousin en septembre 1988 se sont reproduites et leur nombre a déjà dépassé deux milliers. La réputation de citadelle des oiseaux marins de l’océan indien que possède Aride est attestée par la présence de la plus grande colonie au monde de Noddis marianne, et peut-être de Puffins d’Audubon.

Aride est aussi un trésor sur le plan botanique, et le seul endroit au monde où poussent les magnifiques Gardénias de Wright, ou ‘Bois citron’, ainsi qu’une espèce de concombre sauvage qui pourrait être elle aussi endémique de cette île.

Aride abrite les plus grandes colonies du monde de Noddis Marianne et de Puffins de Baillon, ce qui renforce sa renommée de bastion des oiseaux marins de l’océan indien. Aride accueille aussi cinq espèces d’oiseaux terrestres endémiques dont la pie chanteuse ou dyal, la Rousserolle et le Foudi des Seychelles, qui n’existent que sur une poignée d’îles.

FrégateFrégate, la plus isolée des îles granitiques est à 12 minutes de Mahé par un vol Air Seychelles. De toutes les îles, c’est celle qui est le plus souvent associée au monde des pirates et des trésors cachés au cours des dix-septième et dix-huitième siècles. Ian Fleming, le créateur de James Bond, était convaincu, au vu d’anciennes cartes qu’il avait découvertes ici, que l’île cachait un trésor quelque part.

Mais les trésors visibles à l’œil nu sont la flore et la faune de l’île. Frégate est le bastion du Dyal ou Pie chanteuse des Seychelles (environ 200 individus dans le monde), qui après avoir frôlé l’extinction se multiplie grâce aux efforts de BirdLife International. Récemment, le ministère de l’Environnement y a implanté avec succès une autre espèce gravement menacée, l’Oiseau-lunettes des Seychelles (environ 500 individus dans le monde). Frégate abrite également toute la population mondiale d’un scarabée ténébrionide endémique, et possède de nombreuses Tortues géantes à l’état sauvage. Malgré une abondante végétation exotique et la persistance d’une vaste cocoteraie, des dizaines de milliers d’arbres natives y ont été multipliés et replantés depuis 1995, totalisant plusieurs dizaines d’hectares restaurés. Il y a de superbes plages, comme Anse Victorin, considérée par certains comme la plus belle du pays. C’est aussi le paradis du promeneur, avec un réseau de sentiers traversant forêts, cultures et vergers. L’île est réservée depuis 1999 aux clients de Frégate Island Private, un luxueux hôtel 5 étoiles.


DesrochesDesroches is the largest island of the Amirantes, 45 minutes by air from Mahé. Swimming is excellent, unlike most atolls where waters over the surrounding reef are very shallow. The beaches are also excellent. There is a hotel, where guests enjoy sailing, cycling, canoeing, windsurfing, snorkelling deep-sea fishing and diving. Desroches is famous for the Desroches Drop with its fantastic caves, which may be explored under the supervision of a PADI dive-master. There is also a small settlement, with its copra drier, oil press and lock up, a reminder of the old plantation days. Since 2009, a full time team of scientists and rangers from the Island Conservation Society is employed to monitor and protect the terrestrial and marine life.

DesrochesDesroches est la plus grande île des Amirantes, à 45 minutes d’avion de Mahé. La baignade y est excellente, contrairement à la plupart des atolls où les eaux sont très peu profondes au-dessus des récifs ou du platier. Les plages sont également excellentes. Il y a un hôtel où les visiteurs peuvent profiter de la voile, du vélo, du canöé, de la planche à voile, du Palmes-Masque-Tuba, de la pêche en eau profonde, et de la plongée sous-marine. Desroches est célèbre pour son fameux ‘Mur tombant’ avec ses grottes fantastiques, qui peuvent être explorées sous la supervision d’un instructeur de plongée PADI. Il y a aussi un petit village, avec son four à copra, sa presse à huile, et son cachot, un souvenir de l’ancien temps lors de la plantation.

Depuis 2009, une équipe de scientifiques et de gardes de la Fondation pour la Conservation des Iles (Island Conservation Society) y est employée à plein temps pour assurer le suivi et la protection des espèces et des écosystèmes terrestres et marins.

SilhouetteFrom Beau Vallon Beach on Mahé the outline of Silhouette can be seen as the sun falls behind Mount Dauban. Despite being the third largest island of the granitics Seychelles by size, Silhouette has a tiny population. Labriz hotel at La Passe provides the only accommodation on the island. It is also possible to visit for the day and a few boat owners on Mahé offer excursions. Visitors arrive by sea or by helicopter, disembarking at La Passe. The headquarters of Nature Protection Trust of Seychelles, guardians of the island’s rich natural heritage, are also at La Passe.

Unlike its neighbours, the island is of volcanic origin and is named after an 18th century French dignitary. The famous privateer, Hodoul, once lived on Silhouette and it is generally believed that he buried treasure here.

There are no roads, so it is a place for walkers. For serious walkers, there are two paths through equatorial forests linking La Passe and Grande Barbe, and La Passe to Anse Mondon. It takes between half-a-day and a day to hike there and back. The island is very mountainous; Dauban is 780 metres high, much of it is covered with albizia trees, but higher up, there are many plants unique to Seychelles. There are many traditional Creole houses and an old plantation house, one of the finest in Seychelles. The Dauban family tomb, now listed as a national monument is in the grand classical manner, looking at odds with its surroundings.

There were mysterious graves at Anse Lascars that were later destroyed by the sea. Once believed to be evidence that these islands were already known to Arab traders, these graves have now been dated from the arrival of the first Europeans and their slaves. Day trips can be organised with private boats chartered from Beau Vallon (Mahé) or through Helicopter Seychelles.

SilhouetteAssis sur la plage de Beau Vallon à Mahé, on aperçoit l’Ile Silhouette, particulièrement évocatrice lorsque le soleil se couche derrière le Mont Dauban. Bien qu’il s’agisse de la troisième île des Seychelles granitiques de par sa taille, Silhouette n’a qu’une toute petite population. L’établissement Labriz à La Passe offre la seule possibilité d’hébergement hôtelier sur l’île. Il est également possible de faire une visite à la journée dans le cadre d’excursions proposées par quelques propriétaires de bateau à Mahé. Les visiteurs arrivent par mer ou par hélicoptère, et débarquent à La Passe. Le siège du Nature Protection Trust of Seychelles, gardiens du riche patrimoine biologique de l’île, se trouve également à La Passe.

Silhouette est une île plutôt montagneuse, faite pour les passionnés de marche. Il existe, pour ces amateurs de randonnées pédestres, deux passages qui traversent la forêt équatoriale, reliant La Passe et Grand Barbe, ainsi que La Passe à Anse Mondon. La promenade dure entre une demi-journée et une journée et il est préférable de se faire accompagner par un guide local.

Le Mont Dauban, dont les versants sont couverts d’Albizias, culmine à 780 mètres. Sur les hauteurs vivent des plantes endémiques, c’est-à-dire qu on ne trouve qu’aux Seychelles. Quelques maisons traditionnelles sont éparpillées sur l’île dont une des plus belles maisons de planteur des Seychelles, parfait exemple de l’architecture seychelloise. Le caveau familial de la famille Dauban, d’un style classique, contraste avec l’environnement tropical.

Il y avait des tombeaux à l’Anse Lascars mais ceux-ci ont depuis longtemps été emportés par la mer. Il fut un temps où l’on crut qu’ils témoignaient du fait que les Arabes connaissaient déjà ces îles, mais ces tombeaux ont été datés récemment de l’arrivée des Européens et de leurs esclaves. Il est possible d’organiser des excursions d’une journée avec des bateaux privés à partir de Beau Vallon (Mahé), ou par Helicopter Seychelles.


Alphonse & St Francois Atoll

Alphonse is the most remote island with a hotel, 400 kilometres southwest of Mahé. Its attractions include some of the best diving in the Indian Ocean, with forests of Gorgonian fan corals, huge schools of pelagic fish and many colourful reef fish. Once a productive coconut plantation, little remains as a reminder of these days save for a few old buildings and the island’s cemetery near to Pointe Huto. Conservation is a high priority and a team of full time scientists and rangers from the Island Conservation Society are employed on rehabilitation and monitoring programmes

A short stretch of ocean, ominously named as Canal de Mort, separates Alphonse from picture perfect Bijoutier and the lagoon of St Francois, world famous for its fly-fishing, opportunities. A feature of St Francois is the number of shipwrecks, standing as grim reminders of the perils of the sea.

Les atolls d’Alphonse et de St FrançoisSituée à 400km au sud-ouest de Mahé, Alphonse est l’île la plus éloignée avec un hôtel. On y trouve quelques-uns uns des meilleurs sites de plongée de l’océan indien, avec des forêts de Gorgones éventail géantes, d’immenses bancs de poissons pélagiques et beaucoup de poissons de récifs colorés. Jadis une plantation de cocotiers productive, peu de choses sont restées de ce temps révolu à l’exception de quelques vieux bâtiments et le cimetière de l’île près de la Pointe Huto. La conservation de la nature est une priorité et plusieurs scientifiques et gardes de la Fondation pour la Conservation des Iles (Island Conservation Society) y sont employés à plein temps sur des programmes de suivi et de réhabilitation de l’écosystème. Un bras de mer étroit, dont le nom (de mauvaise augure) est ‘Canal de Mort’ sépare Alphonse de l’îlot de carte postale Bijoutier, et du lagon de St François mondialement célèbre pour la pêche à la mouche. Une caractéristique de St François est le nombre d’épaves de bateaux naufragés, dressés comme des sinistres rappels des périls de la mer.

Sociétés offshoreQuelle est la définition de l’offshore?Offshore signifie littéralement « en s’éloignant » « vers le large ». Ce terme s’applique à plusieurs domaines. La société offshore est une entité juridique située dans un autre pays que celui où se déroule l’activité.

Quels sont les secteurs d’activité propices à l’offshore?L’offshore s’adresse à tous secteurs d’activité (finance, immobilier, licences, propriété intellectuelle etc.…) à la condition que l’activité présente un caractère international.

Que est l’intérêt de l’offshore pour vos clients?« Aller offshore » reste une stratégie d’entreprise. Il est souvent nécessaire de mettre en place des structures permettant d’alléger la pression fiscale.

Avec l’IBC (International Business Company), nous disposons d’un outil performant. Cette société règle uniquement 100$ de taxe quelque soit le montant du Chiffre d’affaires ou du bénéfice. Il est possible d’être seul actionnaire de la société, la comptabilité n’est pas à déposer et un compte bancaire peut être ouvert sous 48h dans la même juridiction ou ailleurs si le client le souhaite.

Cette société peut détenir des parts sociales, être propriétaire d’un bien ou d’un bateau.

Voilà une structure adéquate pour l’optimisation fiscale.

Comment considérez vous votre métier, International Corporate Service Provider?Notre activité ne consiste pas à seulement enregistrer des sociétés offshore, mais aussi à conseiller et accompagner nos clients afin qu’ils puissent optimiser leurs revenus.

Je dirais que notre métier se compare à celui de l’architecte, nous avons à notre disposition des outils fiscaux, des lois nationales et internationales, des conventions entre des pays.

Avec tous ces éléments nous devons réaliser la meilleure structure afin de pérenniser les avoirs de nos clients.

Depuis quand exercez-vous cette profession?Avocat au barreau français pendant 15 ans, j’ai créé en 1998 avec plu-sieurs professionnels (juridique et comptable) la société Côte d’Azur Mahe Registered Agents.

Nos clients retrouvent dans notre cabinet , les mêmes codes pro-fessionnels que dans un cabinet français, nous leur fournissons des conseils pointus vis-à-vis de la fiscalité française mais aussi europée-nne, nous nous efforçons de leur prodiguer un service de qualité et un suivi dans leurs affaires ,

Comment les Seychelles se situent par rapport à d’autres pays qui font de l’offshore?La juridiction des Seychelles n’a jamais été sur la liste noire des paradis fiscaux de l’ OCDE ou dans le rapport Levin-Coleman-Obama Stop Tax Haven Abuse ACT, ce qui est très rassurant pour les clients .

La SIBA (notre organisme de tutelle) contrôle régulièrement les cabinets en s’attachant aux différents problèmes de gouvernance, de fiabilité, de compétence, de déontologie et d’assurance professionnelle.

Offshore companiesWhat is the definition of Offshore?Offshore literally means “far away from”“to put to sea ”. This term is used in different ways.The offshore company is a corporate entity located in an-

other country than the country where the activities are taking place.

What are the sectors in which the offshore companies are most favorable in dealing with?Offshore is convenient for all sectors of activities (such as finance, real estate, license, intellectual property, etc…) subject to the condi-tion that it is an internationally based activity.

What is the client’s interest to go Offshore?‘Go Offshore’ is an enterprise strategy. It is usually important to use structures that enable us to lessen the pressure of taxation. With the IBC (International Business Company), we possess a useful tool. The company pay only 100$ of taxes whatever the amount of the turnover or the benefits. It is possible to be the sole shareholder of the company. Accountancy doesn’t have to be filed with the author-ity and a bank account can be opened within 48 hrs in the same jurisdiction or elsewhere if the client wishes to do so.

This company can hold some shares, own an immovable prop-erty or a boat. This is a suitable structure for tax planification.

How would you consider your profession as an International Corporate Service Provider?Our activities do not only consist of registering offshore companies, but also to advice and help our clients in order for them to be able to obtain the maximum out of their revenues. I would like to say that our profession doesn’t differ in comparison to that of an architect; we have at our disposition the tools of taxation, national and international laws, treaties between different countries.

With all those elements we can plan the best structure in order to obtain perennially of our clients.

Since when have you started practicing this profession?I have been a lawyer at the French Bar for 15 years now. I created in 1998 with many professionals (advisors and accountants) the com-pany presently named Cote D’Azur Mahe Registered Agents Ltd

Our clients can find in our office, the same professional ethic as in a French office, we provide them with some good and precise advices about the tax system in French as well as in English; we try hard to provide a good quality service and a close following of the affairs of our clients.

Where does the Seychelles stand in comparison to the other countries that also practice the offshore business? The jurisdiction in Seychelles has never been on the black list as tax havens of OECD or in the report of Levin-Coleman-Obama Stop Tax Haven Abuse ACT, which is very reassuring for the clients. The SIBA (our organization of guardianship) controls frequently the professional as they work side by side with the different government problems and regulations, reliability, competence, code of conduct and professional insurance liability.

BUSINESS IN SEYCHELLESDominique Guichard, CEO of CAMRA

BUSINESS IN SEYCHELLES


DestinationJohannesburg

Around the Central Business DistrictIn preparation for the 2010 World Cup, the regeneration of downtown Johannesburg transformed the central business district (or CBD) into a lively and relatively safe area, overseen by uniformed city security guards and observed by hundreds of security cameras. Visitors can now do their sightseeing in many areas with little fear of being harassed, let alone mugged.

For an eagle’s eye view of central Johannesburg, take the elevator to the 50th floor of the tallest building in Africa. At the top of the Carlton Centre on Commissioner Street, the Top of Africa floor offers window views in every direction across the city – and on clear days northwest to the Magaliesberg Mountains and south to the rugged Drakensberg range.Carlton Centre +27 11 308 2876; open daily from 7.30 am-7 pm.

Leaving the shopping mall at the bottom of the Carlton Centre, it’s a five-minute walk west along the pedestrianised Fox Street and then a block south to arrive at the revamped Gandhi Square. What used to be the inner-city area of Vanderbijl Bus Station is now a modern, open-air transport terminus fringed by pavement cafés and small shops and embellished by a statue of Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi lived in South Africa from 1893 to 1915, and worked at the magistrate’s court that stood in this part of Johannesburg. It was while defending South African Indians that he formulated his ideas of non-violent resistance that were later taken up by the ANC (African Nation Congress) when it was fighting apartheid.

The recently landscaped and tree-shaded Main Street leads west out of Gandhi Square. If you follow Main for

Left: Sophiatown Restaurant, Johannesburg.

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Jozi in the SummertimeTo many travellers in southern Africa, Johannesburg is synonymous with crime. Indeed, even many South Africans still talk about

the city as if most of it was a no-go area. They need to revise their opinions, says Richard Trillo, who has been discovering a

reinvented Joburg that has much more to offer than the guarded enclaves of the rich suburbs. In recent years it has blossomed

into a thriving metropolis with the best infrastructure and cultural offerings in Africa. And in late summer – January, February and

March – with its green spaces and 1,700 metres altitude, Johannesburg is a fine outdoor destination.

• Silhouette • Vol 23 No 1 • 39

two blocks and then turn and walk south for three blocks along Harrison Street, you’ll reach one of the CBD’s cultural gems, the Standard Bank Art Gallery. The gallery has a reputation for nurturing local talent, with its annual Young Artist of the Year award, and it also stages international exhibitions – such shows in recent years by the great 20th-century painters Marc Chagall and Joan Miró. As well as contemporary art, the gallery has a spectacular collection of African historical crafts, masks, drums and textiles. Standard Bank Art Gallery, Frederick Street: +27 11 631 4467; standardbankarts.com; open from Monday to Friday 8 am-4.30 pm and Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Closed on Sundays and free on public holidays.

Heading back north along Harrison Street for several blocks you pass through a quarter of solid Victorian facades before reaching Market Street. The grand edifice on the northwest corner here is the Gauteng Legislature, the provincial government headquarters for the Johannesburg region. Further west along Market Street, in the neighbourhood of Marshall Town, the architecture becomes a mixture of Victorian residential blocks and modern glass and steel towers. There are interesting shops to browse around here, including a venerable herbal medicine store going by the name of the Museum of Man & Science. First opened in 1948, it sells preparations made from plants, roots and bark, as well as traditional medicine, or muti, prepared from animal parts and a fair few souvenirs for passing tourists – who can also pay for a sangoma (traditional healer) to ‘roll the bones’ to diagnose

treatment for any ailment. Museum of Man and Science, Diagonal Street corner of President Street:+27 11 836 4470, open from Monday to Friday 7.15 am- 5 pm and Saturday 7.15 am-1 pm.

You’re now reaching the heart of Joburg’s revitalized CBD, the neighbourhood of Newtown, renamed the Newtown Cultural Precinct. Miriam Makeba Street – named after South Africa’s singing star of the 1960s who popularised South Africa’s blend of jazz and traditional harmony to the rest of the world – leads north to the handsome Mary Fitzgerald Square stretched between Jeppe Street and Museum Africa. The ornately fronted museum, formerly the city’s huge covered fruit and vegetable market, presents the story of Africa’s past and present through indigenous cultures, including prehistoric rock art and, more recent, documentary and photographic displays. Museum Africa, Mary Fitzgerald Square: +27 11 833 5624; open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am-5 pm.

Behind Museum Africa stands the Market Theatre, world-famous since anti-apartheid days when it was a bastion of free expression and cutting-edge drama. The tradition of supporting new work and rising talent has continued. With three auditoriums and a constantly changing programme, you’ll rarely go wrong with a visit here. Market Theatre, 56 Margaret Mcingana Street: 27 11 832 1641; markettheatre.co.za.

If you have the energy for bargaining, grab a cab along Jeppe Street to the vast retail emporium of Oriental Plaza, straddling the road. The traders at this mall specialise in fabrics, but you’ll find retail outlets for

Above: Mandela tribute street art, Soweto.


practically anything. For more of a rest and a bite to eat, the Sophiatown Restaurant, facing Museum Africa on the south side of the square, is a popular venue, with pavement tables and good, fast food. Try mopani worms simmered in wine and garlic butter, a grilled vegetable salad, or kudu steak with coriander and balsamic vinegar. Do go inside and have a look at the photos of the old Sophiatown suburb, celebrated for its jazz artists and radical anti-apartheid culture. Oriental Plaza, Bree Street, Johannesburg: +27 11 838 6752.Sophiatown, Jeppe Street, corner of Henry Nxumalo Street: +27 11 836 5999; sophiatownbarlounge.co.za.

SowetoFormerly on the frontline of the anti-apartheid

struggle and a byword for violence and poverty, the once grim district of Soweto (‘South Western Townships’), 20 minutes’ drive from Johannesburg’s CBD, is today a sprawling and rapidly growing satellite city, stretched across a hilly landscape, with a population of some two million. While it has its fair share of shanties and poor neighbourhoods, there are growing signs of affluence too, from lavish mansions to a surprising number of public parks and the stylish Maponya Shopping Mall.

Soweto is too big to walk around and some areas are still not ready for unaccompanied tourists. Any hotel or travel agent can organise a driving tour, but a stimulating alternative is to explore Soweto by bicycle,

accompanied by a knowledgeable local guide. You will experience the district’s sights and sounds, its multiple viewpoints and maybe a taste of township life in the form of a snack of boiled cow cheek and a sample of sorghum beer in a shebeen.Lebo’s Bicycle Tours, 10823A Pooe Street, Orlando West, Soweto: +27 11 936 3444; sowetobicycletours.com; tours last from two hours to a full day.

As well as absorbing Soweto’s atmosphere, you should take in its historical sights, including the Hector Pieterson Memorial, which honours the first schoolboy to be killed in the 1976 Soweto uprising, and the huge, red-brick Regina Mundi Catholic church – the largest in South Africa, which has a capacity of more than 8,000 worshippers. Both sites are large public spaces where you’ll be very welcome and are likely to share a visit with locals and other tourists. Hector Pietersen Memorial and Museum, Kumalo Main Road, corner of Pela Main Road, Orlando West, Soweto: +27 11 536 0611.Regina Mundi Catholic Church, Kumalo Street, corner of Mkize Street, Orlando East, Soweto: Monday to Saturday masses at 8 am, Sunday masses at 7 am and 9 am.

Just south of the Hector pietersen Memorial, Vilakazi Street is Soweto’s most prestigious address. Two Nobel prize-winners formerly lived here – Nelson Mandela (whose house is now a modest museum) and Bishop Desmond Tutu – and it’s a trendy strip for locals to come for a meal. At Restaurant Vilakazi the pavement

Above: Restaurant, Vilakazi Street, Soweto.


Below: Moyo, Zoo Lake, Johannesburg.

tables are popular in the evening at this time of year. Try traditional local dishes like lamb shank with dumpling or chicken liver with maize and beans or stick to steaks, seafood or salads. Go on for a drink to The Rock, a famous local club where the roof terrace looks across the Soweto rooftops. Restaurant Vilakazi, 6876 Vilakazi Street, Soweto: +27 11 936 7432; restaurantvilakazi.co.za; dailyThe Rock, Vundla Drive, Rockville, Soweto: +27 11 986 8182

Parks and Green SpacesFor a city with its reputation, it’s surprising how much of Johannesburg consists of pleasant, family-friendly green spaces. Rising above the easygoing midtown suburb of Melville is a hilly ridge, the Melville Koppies Nature Reserve, that is barely known to most Joburgers, and yet is a haven for local flora and fauna and offers superb views. Maintained by an enthusiastic group of volunteer naturalists and history enthusiasts, the hills, which range over more than 200 hectares of grassland and bush, also contain the relics of stone age and iron age settlement sites. You can visit at any time, but at weekends there are recommended guided walks.Melville Koppies, Melville, Johannesburg: +27 11 482 4797; www.mk.org.za.

Even easier, especially for young families, is a visit to Zoo Lake, a safe, grassy park and lake near the Johannesburg zoo. It’s the perfect spot to kick a ball around, rent a rowing boat and have a picnic, and there’s also a worthwhile outdoor art exhibition on the first weekend of every month. On the lakeshore,

a branch of Moyo (a popular South African restaurant franchise), is ideal for a lazy late breakfast or extended lunch, with plenty of unfussy eating and relaxing areas and lots of the shade you’ll be craving for on a summer afternoon. Zoo Lake, footprint.co.zaArtists under the Sun, artistsunderthesun.co.zaMoyo, Zoo Lake, Johannesburg: +27 11 646 0058; moyo.com.

Midway between Joburg’s central business district and Soweto, lies Gold Reef City and the neighbouring Apartheid Museum. Gold Reef City is a theme park built above the old Number 14 shaft of the Crown Mines gold mine. You can descend the mine shaft or explore the reconstructions of period streets, but if you have children with you, you’ll be spending most of your time on the excellent rides. Next door, and in stark contrast, is the moving and exemplary Apartheid Museum. From the stunningly realised mirrored entrance ramp, via the White/Non-White ticket lottery at the turnstiles, to the deeply affecting personal stories inside the halls, the visit leaves an indelible impression.Gold Reef City, Gold Reef Road, Ormonde, Johannesburg: +27 11 248 6800; goldreefcity.co.za; open from Wednesday to Sunday 9.30 am-5 pm and daily on school holidays from 9.30-5pm.

Apartheid Museum, Gold Reef Road, Ormonde, Johannesburg: +27 11 309 4700; apartheidmuseum.org; open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am-5 pm. $


Madagascar An Island Lost in Time By Peter Holthusen.

On the third day of the gale in the Mozambique Channel, the sea rose again, our yacht rolling slowly to the glassy heave

of the breeze, until, a little nearer to land, at last we struck violently and fixed upon a bed of coral rock. Despite our predicament, we had finally reached our destination, the spectacular Indian Ocean island of Madagascar.

A more lovely scene could scarcely be imagined; deep sapphire water breaking into pearls of foam upon the bristling reefs, dying onto glittering crystal sand fringing the horseshoe bay, two palm-clad crescents, embracing an amethyst lagoon, encircled by bright, darting tropicbirds. Inland, a wonderland it was – the most exquisite that imagination could conceive.

Twisting vegetation interlaced into a natural pergola, and through this tunnel of leafy branches flowed the rippling river, beautiful with strange tints thrown from the dappled light above. Every stroke of our paddles sending 1,000 rainbow bubbles across its shining surface. A fitting avenue to a land of wonders,

where ghostly orchids, vivid peonies and their rosy buds glowed upon mossed trees.

All the riches of the earth, all the ingenuity of man could not have crafted a more beautiful setting, nor cornucopia of untold treasure as found on Madagascar. Cast adrift in the Indian Ocean, Madagascar has been separated from other landmasses for longer than any other island on earth. For tens of millions of years evolution has played along here in virtual isolation.

Little is known of the settlement of Madagascar before the coming of the Europeans; whether or not Madagascans actively hunted the huge birds is a matter for speculation – presumably some did.

Perhaps the gigantic eggs of the elephant bird and roc seemed of rather more value than the birds themselves and these eggs were surely prized by the natives not only for their food content but also for the ornamental and utilitarian value of the shells.

The Republic of Madagascar (formerly the Malagasy Republic) is an island country located in the Indian Ocean and separated from Africa by the 805-

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Above: The vibrant capital Antananarivo (affectionately known by the locals as ‘Tana’) is the usual introduction to Madagascar, and occupies a commanding position in the centre of the island 145 kilometres (90 miles) from the east coast.

DestinationMadagascar


kilometre (500-mile) wide Mozambique Channel. The nation comprises the main island of Madagascar at 587,041 square kilometre (226,658 square miles), the fourth largest island in the world, as well as numerous smaller peripheral islands, the largest of which include Nosy Be and Nosy Boraha (Île Sainte-Marie).

Its lengthy geographical separation is key to the other worldliness of the wildlife you’ll see in Madagascar today. Between 80 and 90 per cent of the island’s plants and terrestrial animals exist nowhere else on earth, with a rich and varied landscape ranging from tropical moist mountain forests on the central plateau, lowland plains in the west and dry desert in the southwest. Its geology covers an immense period of history, witnessing the rise of the dinosaurs some 85 million years ago until its discovery by humans in approximately 500 years BC. To try and experience even part of what the island has to offer takes a lot of stamina, a large slice of patience and an extremely tough rear, as most travel involves four-wheel-drive vehicles on pot-holed mud tracks disguised as roads – but a visit here is truly an experience to behold!

Arriving in the capital, Antananarivo (affectionately known by the locals at ‘Tana’), is the usual introduction to Madagascar and within a short time the atmosphere and people remind you that the island is like nowhere else on earth. The Malagasy, whose origins predominantly lie in south-east Asia,

Above: For anyone visiting Madagascar for the first time, the lemurs are an absolute must-see. This group of primates – unique to the island – have been isolated from true monkeys and apes for millions of years.

lack many of the commodities which are taken for granted in the Western world, but they are extremely contented and friendly people whose knowledge of the island is surprisingly rich. Tana is a harmonious blend of local culture coupled with obvious remnants from the French colonial period, and modern buildings mix randomly with contemporary architecture. The markets and stallholders, which offer both African and Asian wares, including full-size replicas of the egg of the legendary elephant bird, add to the colourful and sometimes chaotic flavour.

To escape the more modern influence of Tana, the old French settlement of Antsirabe, which is actually the third largest city in Madagascar, really is a sojourn into the past and reflects the importance of Madagascar to the French East India Company during the 17th and 18th centuries. The city is situated in the cooler highlands with natural hot springs, so was used as a refuge by the French to escape the otherwise hot, humid climate on the coasts. After the spice trade began to wane, Madagascar was opened up for its other precious commodities including sapphires, crops and timber. Much of the export and import activity occurred through the busy port town of Toliara, particularly during the heyday of the sapphire trade, and numerous sapphire mines can still be seen on the drive to Toliara across the dry savannah in the southwest.


For anyone visiting Madagascar for the first time, the lemurs are an absolute must-see. This group of primates – unique to the island – have been isolated from true monkeys and apes for millions of years. This isolation has enabled lemurs to evolve without competition from their more advanced relatives; thus they have taken advantage of every available habitat. You will see the showy black and white, dog-like ruffed lemur, the aptly named ring-tail, where the tail itself looks like it has been stuck on as an afterthought, and if you are lucky, you might hear the haunting call of the Indri, the largest surviving lemur.

Arguably the most specialised, and certainly the most bizarre of the lemurs is the aye-aye. It truly is unique, so much so that the first European scientists to receive a specimen from early explorers scratched their heads in bemusement and eventually classified it as a type of squirrel. Only after much debate and several reclassifications was it finally agreed that the aye-aye is in fact a kind of lemur. Aye-ayes are nocturnal cat-sized creatures with shaggy black coats, spending much of their lives high up in the canopy of both deciduous forests and rainforests. They have continually growing incisor teeth, huge satellite-dish ears, and a long, skeletally thin middle finger for its favourite activity: grub hunting.

A nocturnal excursion can be rewarding too, as there are a number of mouse-sized species that only venture out at night. All lemurs fear the Fossa, a strange carnivore with a bear-like head, mongoose body and cat-like tail, and best seen at Vakona in the heart of the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.

Those more interested in the birdlife of Madagascar will witness many species unique to the island. Most notable are the spectacular Vangas, an ancient group of birds with varied bill shapes and sizes for feeding on different foods. Had Charles Darwin not by-passed Madagascar during the epic voyage of HMS Beagle, he may well have developed his ‘Origin of Species’ theory much sooner, as the small, drab finches of the Galápagos are relatively undifferentiated in comparison with the Vangas.

Madagascar also has a lot of other bird species, each adapted to the many geographical zones. They range from the scarlet-red fodies (relatives of the weaver birds) which form immense roosting colonies at night in a favourite tree, to the endangered Madagascar fish eagle. One must not forget the reptiles, amphibians and insects as Madagascar has an incredible variety that needs to be seen to be believed. There are bark, stick, leaf and flower-mimicking insects, giant grasshoppers (katydids) and stick insects (phasmids), some as long as your forearm, and the world’s smallest chameleon, no bigger than a large fly. Most of these animals are nocturnal and cryptic, but daytime will reveal the curious and aptly-named day geckos, beautiful lizards coloured a mixture of green, red, yellow and blue that cling to any surface including hotel ceilings, where they devour the many annoying insects that congregate in the bedrooms.

The wet forests echo with the calls of various frogs, and it is always a great surprise to track a very loud croak to its source; only to find that it is coming from a tiny species of frog little larger than your thumb nail, the critically endangered Golden Mantella frog. Giant orb spiders, which look like plastic toys sat in the middle of their robust, lemon-yellow coloured webs, are quite capable of catching small birds and bats. The supporting strands of their web can reach six metres in length, but fear not arachnophobes, these spiders sit motionless until the next meal flies in.

The flora is spectacular too, and Madagascar boasts 180 different types of palm. The variety of forest type is remarkable, from dense, tropical evergreen montane forests to the bizarre thorny desert flora in the southwest. The variation in the vegetation is best appreciated by road as the differences can be witnessed every few miles, and be sure to drive past the avenues of towering baobab trees.

Now, more than ever, is the best time to visit Madagascar, for this spectacular Indian Ocean island is still arguably the most important of all our biodiversity hotspots. The sheer array of flora and fauna is

Above: The Malagasy, whose origins predominantly lie in south-east Asia, lack many of the commodities which are taken for granted in the Western world, but they are extremely contented and friendly people whose knowledge of the island is surprisingly rich.


FURTHER INFORMATIONMadagascar Tourism Board www.madagascar-tourisme.com

LOCATION: Madagascar lies off Africa’s south-east coast and is the fourth largest island in the world. It is in the Indian Ocean and separated from Africa by the Mozambique Channel and crossed by the Tropic of Capricorn.

LAND AREA: The island has a total surface area of 587,040 square kilometres, and extends 1,550 kilometres from north to south and 575 kilometres from west to east, with almost 5,000 kilometres of coastline.

POPULATION: 20.5 million.

CAPITAL: Antananarivo, 1,750,000 inhabitants.

LANGUAGES: Malagasy is the official language, although French is widely spoken.

TIME: GMT+3.

CURRENCY: The official currency of Madagascar is the Malagasy Ariary (MGA).

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passports for all visitors must be valid for at least 6 months. Visas for up to 90 days can be issued on arrival.

HEALTH: It is advisable to contact your physician before travelling. Malaria is a risk throughout the year and is highest on the coast.

RELIGION: Almost all Malagasy combine the Christian faith (either Catholic or Protestant) with their traditional religion. Two groups, the Antalaotra in the northwest and the Antaimoro (Arab-Malagasy) of the southeast, have adopted Muslim practices.

WHEN TO GO: Madagascar enjoys several climatic zones depending on the altitude and location. In general, the climate ranges from humid tropical to semi-arid, with a rainy season from November to April and a dry season the rest of the year.

NOT TO BE MISSED: Seeking out the Indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur, in the Andasibe- Mantadia National Park. Whale watching by boat from Nosy Boraha island or Manafiafy beach in the southeast corner of the island.

BEST MEAL: Malagasy curry with a fruit dessert prepared with local vanilla.

INSIDER TIP: Do not try to cover the whole island in a two-week holiday. Madagascar is about the size of France and the infrastructure means that flying is necessary. Select two or three key areas and focus on them.

staggering – but increasingly under threat. As the country grapples with rising levels of poverty, a rapidly growing population in need of land for crops and charcoal to cook with, illegal logging of precious hardwoods, slash-and-burn agriculture, oil and mining projects with potentially serious environmental impacts, it is clear that massive conservation challenges lie ahead. But ecotourism provides local employment and generates much-needed revenue to help Madagascar tackle some of these issues. At the same time this reinforces the message that the country’s natural heritage is a valuable asset worth protecting. But whatever your reason for visiting, you’ll waste no time discovering that to experience Madagascar, is to experience nature in all her glory, for this is truly one of the few remaining untamed and remarkable places left on earth. $

Left: Close to the town of Morondava on the west coast of the island, you will discover the wonders of the majestic ‘Baobab Alley’, a truly awe-inspiring spectacle of the natural world.

As the official agent for Riva Yachts in Southern Africa, Seychelles and Mauritius, AdBrands Marine is offering the first two buyers of 2012 Riva models a five percent guaranteed charter return per annum for up to four years, whilst also managing the boat on its owners’ behalf. A sound investment, when one considers that many major banks are offering an interest rate of between one and two percent on fixed deposits – and this is before we even mention the immeasurable joys of ownership.Indeed, nothing says, “I’ve arrived” quite like a Riva. Even today, some 169 years since the shipyard’s humble beginnings on Lake Iseo, in Italy, this iconic boating brand continues to epitomise timeless elegance and luxury.The purest expression of traditional artisan skill, every Riva creation embodies the same class-leading qualities – clean lines, cutting-edge design and technology, the finest materials and exquisite attention to detail. When a Riva pulls into any port in the world, heads don’t just turn – eyes widen, jaws drop, and few can stop themselves from admiring, aspiring, desiring…Fewer still will ever realise the dream of ownership. Royalty, Hollywood stars, sports champions, captains of industry and high-net-worth individuals the world over regard Riva as an icon of style and success – rare jewels that reflect the glamour and romance of another time, another place. Think 1950s Capri, Monte Carlo, Como, Venice and St Tropez. Think paparazzi, seductive starlets, scarved and sunglassed divas, larger-than- life personalities and passionate love affairs. This was the ‘good life’, the original ‘La Dolce Vita’, and Riva played a starring role the lives of its rich and famous participants – from Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, to Brigitte Bardot, King Hussein of Jordan and Sean Connery, all of whom were proud owners.Since becoming part of the Ferretti Group in 2000 – a worldwide leader in luxury boating, and producer of Pershing, Itama, Bertram, Mochi Craft, CRN and Ferretti Custom Line – a new generation of Riva yachts has emerged: technologically advanced yet as timelessly elegant as ever, these boats embrace innovation whilst still maintaining their connection to the past.The Riva of today marries modernity with 169 years of history and heritage. So while the old-fashioned wooden hull may have evolved into a sturdy, advanced composite construction, and

the overall design has become far more sleek and streamlined, every Riva in the range still boasts incredibly detailed Italian craftsmanship – the brand’s signature solid mahogany surfaces being a case in point. It takes 20 coats of lacquer to achieve that famous Riva finish, and it is as painstaking a process as ever, one that can take a good few weeks to complete. Ten layers are expertly painted, sanded and smoothed by hand, before a further ten coats are sprayed on to get that luxuriant trademark Riva sheen. This level of detail is typical of Mauro Micheli and Sergio Beretta, Riva’s official design team. The pair is determined to stick to their core philosophy: “To design long-lasting yachts, destined to become part of Riva’s history and its great classics”. This ‘hall of fame’ invariably includes the ‘Aquarama’, famously designed by Carlo Riva in 1962, and its successor, the effortlessly elegant Aquariva in 2001. However, the latest high-profile additions to the Riva range are equally worthy of inclusion – the sumptuous special edition Aquariva 33’ by Gucci, and the visionary Aquariva 33’ by Marc Newson, a unique collaboration that sees the deployment of space-age materials, futuristic design tweaks, premium styling and a premium price tag to match!Because of their enduring quality and bond with the past, Riva yachts are timeless collectables that only increase in value over time. In fact, certain models have been known to fetch prices more than 40 times their original selling price.The romance of Riva is now available to buyers in South Africa, Mauritius and Seychelles, thanks to AdBrands Marine – the official Riva agents for this region. Company Director, Duan Coetzee, credits the brand’s arrival, in part, to the local film industry, and the increasing number of requests for exclusive charters from the guests of five star hotels. But why Riva and not another luxury yacht brand? “Riva is the absolute benchmark in boating and the flagship of the Feretti Group. No other craft can match its on-the-water presence, or rival its unmistakable design and quality of finish. It is quite simply the best boat money can buy. AdBrands Marine couldn’t be more passionate about this brand and it is with great pride that we introduce Riva to high-net-worth buyers in Southern Africa.” For more information SMS “RIVA” to +27 83 709 6688 or email [email protected]

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DestinationFrance

For anyone not born there, France’s best-

known place-name after Paris must surely be

Normandy. Now as every estate agent knows,

only three things really matter, however prime the

property, location, location – and location. But with

Ma Belle Normandie, that is just the start of it.

So imagine an 8th century Viking chieftain looking

for somewhere warmer to spend the summer than

the barren slopes of his native Scandinavia. When

the snows melt and the raiding season begins, the

dragon-headed long-ships are hauled from their

winter lairs, and off he goes with his men in search

of pillage, plunder and even some trade or pastures

new. Some ships cross the cold North Sea to England,

while others head for the southern shores of the

English Channel where rumours tell of warmer lands.

What these fierce raiders saw was much the

same as anyone on a Channel ferry would see today

It’s Springtime in NormandyLand of Cream, Saints and Cider

One of France’s best-known regions celebrates its 1,101st birthday. By Kate Nivison.

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Above: Chalk bluffs along the River Seine from the ruined castle at Les Andelys.

– imposing chalk cliffs guarding good harbours,

fine stretches of sandy beach and wide-open river

estuaries inviting further exploration. Beyond were

lush pastures grazed by fat cattle and sheep, apple

and pear orchards ripe for the picking, forests of

oak and beech full of wild game, and prosperous

little market towns minding their own business.

The inhabitants weren’t particularly welcoming –

but then nobody liked to be raided and pillaged,

especially by Vikings. A period of turmoil ensued, but

eventually the native Franks resigned themselves to

the idea that the Northmen were not going home

this year, or any year. In fact they’d brought their

relatives, enslaved or married the neighbours and

generally made themselves at home.

Yet it took only a few generations for these pagan

Northmen to adopt Christianity, pick up the local

language and organise themselves into the best


fighting force in Europe. Under the banners of their

warlords, these chevaliers, from the French cheval, meaning horse (knights or cavaliers to the English)

were known for their thunderous cavalry charges and

disciplined ranks of chain-mailed archers and infantry.

Between battles, they set about defending their

new lands with state-of-the-art fortresses complete

with turrets, battlements, moats, drawbridges, and

of course dungeons. This construction boom, using

the fine white local stone, included great abbeys and

churches in honour of their new patron saints.

The toughest of these efficient, ruthless lords was

Rollo or Rolf. From his citadel in Rouen on the River

Seine, he declared himself Duke of a vast, fertile piece

of real estate stretching from the Channel almost

to Paris, the capital of the Frankish kings. In AD 911

Rollo and the French King eventually came to terms,

marking the event by a huge stone carved with Viking

runes set in the heart of Rouen. Et voilà – Normandy,

the Land of the Northmen was born, hence last year’s

1,100th birthday celebrations.

But conquest was still in the blood, even if it

meant spilling other people’s. Rollo’s ambitious

great-great-great-grandson, William, decided he’d

sooner be a king than a mere duke, so he crossed

the Channel with a view to conquering England.

Which of course he did, in 1066 at the Battle of

Hastings – long since remembered as one of those

days that really did change history. Now history, it’s

claimed, is written by the winners, but in this case

it was actually embroidered, quite literally, by the

losers. The story of that bloody day is recorded on, of

all things, an almost 70-metre long by half-a-metre

high piece of linen cloth, rather in the manner of a

giant strip cartoon, with Latin explanations as the

action unfolds. Known as the Bayeux Tapestry, after

the Norman town where it is now on show, this

fascinating example of the mediaeval embroiderer’s

art was actually created to order by English nuns – a

crafty way of rubbing in the Conqueror’s message.

The Bayeux Tapestry has a museum all to itself and is

one of the main attractions of the coastal region, for

French and English tourists alike.

For the next 500 years, the kings of England

fought battle after battle to keep their Normandy

heritage intact – Agincourt being only the best

known of these. Yet by the mid-16th century, the

Northmen’s habit of adapting to their new lands

had repeated itself, and the ruling class had become

as English as the people they had conquered. Their

linguistic inheritance lingers in ‘English’ names such

as William, Henry, Richard, Robert and Stephen, many

place names and those annoying irregular verbs.

Meanwhile the stay-at-home Normans continued

to build some of the finest churches, castles and

walled towns in France. Magical Mont-St-Michel,

tucked into a sweeping bay near Avranches, is a

UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and

Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site, as is the

old centre of Rouen, although here today it could be

Joan of Arc, one of France’s best-known women, who

comes to mind, rather than old Duke Rollo. In 1431,

Joan was burnt in the market square as a witch and

heretic by the invading English and their Burgundian

allies. With France badly divided at the time, the

whole thing was politically motivated and Joan was

eventually declared a saint and the region’s protector.

During World War II she was credited with saving the

timber-built houses of the town centre from total

loss to bombing, although their massive oak frames

surely helped. Over 500 of them have been restored

to form the largest mediaeval street complex in

Europe.

Rouen stands, like Paris, on the Seine where

an island helped the building of bridges. Its other

attractions include the majestic Abbey of St.Ouen,

a jewel of the Flamboyant Gothic style, with Rollo’s

Stone nearby. The atmospheric cobbled streets and

squares are crammed with little family-run shops,

bars and restaurants at every turn. Normandy

Above: Restored mediaeval streets, with Rouen Cathedral.


specialities from its pastures, salt-marshes, rivers,

woodland and coast are always on the menu where

the description ‘à la Normande’ means a dish served

with a rich cream sauce whether it’s pork cutlets, veal,

seafood or chicken. Popular countryside activities

include hunting, duck shooting, fishing and even

foraging for wild fruit, nuts and mushrooms, while

deer and wild boar may be seen bolting across side

roads. Tripes à la mode de Caen from the town of that

name, draws compliments from reluctant offal-eaters

by adding cider, Calvados (apple brandy distilled from

cider), cream, bacon and herbs to the humble dish of

‘tripe and onions’.

Caen also gives its name to the high quality white

stone that the Normans even shipped across the

Channel to build the Tower of London and Canterbury

Cathedral. Calvados, on the other hand, often makes

the trip in visitors’ luggage. Inventive as ever, Norman

cooks use apples caramelised for tarte tartin, in

sorbets, as a sauce for pork and to make cider and

Calvados since the climate isn’t right for vineyards. A

dash of calva in the breakfast coffee kick-starts many

a farmhouse winter morning. Pears are pressed for

perry, a champagne-like drink that’s deliciouly served

chilled for a summer party.

Normandy is so popular with Parisians and British

visitors for day-trips, weekend breaks and second

homes that there are plenty of well-signed tourist

trails (routes) leading off the excellent motorway

system. The Abbeys’ Route meanders along the

Seine valley to picturesque ruins such as Les Andelys,

Richard the Lion heart’s stronghold on a strategic

river loop, the abbeys of Jumièges and St.Wandrille

and lots of pretty chateaux. It is particularly lovely

in spring when the apple and pear blossom whips

up a glorious pink and white froth against the rich

meadows and gleaming chalk bluffs.

Other well-established trails for cyclists, walkers

and motorists alike include the Writers’ Route for

associations with Victor Hugo and Gustave Flaubert,

a Cheese Route (Camembert is only the best-known),

and naturally one for cider. At Giverny, coach-

loads of art lovers besiege the home and garden of

the great Impressionist Claude Monet who found

inspiration as much from his own water-lily pond as

from luminous Normandy coastal skies and wheat

fields swathed with scarlet poppies.

Yet for all the culture and gastronomy, some tours

are more like pilgrimages. Never was the location of

Normandy so fateful as during World War II when its

Channel beaches were chosen for the 1944 D-day

landings. It’s said that Normandy paid the price for

France’s liberation, but old wounds are healed among

the remembrance museums and poppy wreaths of

Bayeux, Arromanches, Caen and many more.

The story of another local saint shows how far

Normandy has come since its warlike beginnings.

When France was expanding its colonial empire, a

19th-century Carmelite nun, St.Thérèse of Lisieux,

known for her sweet nature as The Little Flower, was

named patron of missionaries the world over. She

never left her peaceful convent (now also a place of

pilgrimage) yet from Canada to Africa, through the

Indian Ocean and into the Pacific there are churches

and women named after her. Even Duke Rollo never

managed that. $

Left: Famous water lily scene in artist Claude Monet’s garden at Giverny.

Normandy is so popular with

Parisians and British visitors for

day-trips, weekend breaks and second homes that there are plenty of well-signed tourist trails

(routes) leading off the excellent

motorway system


Perhaps you are on your way out to

Seychelles and have opted for self-catering

accommodation; or you are on your way home

and thinking back to the food you have been enjoying

in the past few weeks; wondering if you might re-

conjure the culinary experience when you are back

home: in either case, here are a few suggestions

for fish feasts which will bring you the real taste of

Seychelles.

Fish naturally features highly on the Seychelles

menu. There is a wide variety available, but particular

favourites are fresh tuna, sailfish, red snapper or

bourzwa, parrot fish and job. Some of the above are

to be obtained in the supermarket back home these

days, and you can always substitute: experiment until

you find the best equivalent for your recipe, or one

which gives the dish an entirely new dimension. For

tuna, why not try salmon; for red snapper, what about

monkfish or any other firm white fish? If the worst

comes to the worst, you can always resort to chicken!

Fish FeastsBy Judith Skerrett.

The other ingredients should be found on

supermarket shelves, or in specialist Indian or Chinese

supermarkets. As for accompaniments: all you need

is some rice, a dish of chopped chillies in vinegar,

oil or lime juice and a satini. The latter can be as

straightforward as grated fresh carrot, cabbage or

cucumber tossed in a little oil, lime juice and pepper

or more exotically grated green pawpaw, green mango,

pumpkin or golden apple (if obtainable) mixed with

some onion and lime juice.

So let’s get cooking! For a super soup you first of

all have to make a good fish stock using fish bones

and a fish head. These should be washed and broken

up, then added to some hot oil with sliced onions

and tomatoes. If the thought of cutting up a whole

fish is just too much, you can always buy pre-made

fish stock or use a stock cube. When the onions

are browned, add about two litres (three pints) of

water, some tomato puree, ginger, garlic, sugar, fish

sauce, thyme and turmeric and, if you would like a


slightly sour twist, 57 grammes of tamarind pods. In

Seychelles they use bilimbis to give this sourness but

tamarind pods are perhaps more easily obtainable at

home. As for the fish, if you are in Seychelles it should

be easy to buy some bourzwa or baksou. Back home

you can sometimes buy Red Snapper in supermarkets

and it is available at specialist fishmongers or from

online suppliers, but failing this you can use mullet or

even cod, though with cod numbers on the decline,

people are turning to more ‘ethical’ alternatives

including coley, pollack, black bream or sea bream.

After adding salt and pepper, leave the stock to

simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain the bones from

the stock carefully, and add chunks of fish to the

liquor. Cook the fish pieces in the stock for about five

minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Remove the

fish and strain the soup again. Take the bones out of

the fish pieces, break the flesh into flakes and add to

the soup before serving.

Next on the menu is a corking good curry! Tasting

a delicious Seychelles fish curry is one of the best

things about a visit to Seychelles. The locals use meaty

fish such as tuna or bonito for their curries but again

you could use any of the cod alternatives mentioned

above. Having cut the fish into cubes and finely

chopped an onion, grind together an inch long piece

of fresh ginger with a few cloves of garlic (according

to taste). In a dry pan gently heat the spices for the

curry mix, including two teaspoons of coriander seeds,

half a teaspoon of cumin or caraway seeds and three

or four finely chopped chillies (add more according

to taste). For convenience you can buy

ready-made curry powder; or better

yet buy some of the local carry pile

from the market in Victoria whilst you’re

in Seychelles. Heat oil in a pan and add

the onions, the curry mix and a teaspoon

of turmeric. Add the fish pieces and cook

for a few minutes adding tomato paste,

garlic and ginger and tamarind if desired.

Add water until the sauce is of the desired

thickness, cover and simmer gently for 15 to

20 minutes.

As an alternative for those who like their food a

bit less spicy, you could serve a gorgeous grilled fish.

For this you can use whole mackerel or salmon steaks.

Make cuts in the skin and leave to marinate in a

mixture of sliced onions, chopped garlic, ground ginger,

salt, pepper and, depending on your tastes, some

chopped chillies and tamarind paste. Put some of the

mix into the slits to ensure the flavours penetrate well

into the flesh. Set aside for half an hour and then cook

under a hot grill, basting occasionally with a mix of oil

and lime juice.

As an alternative for those who like

their food a bit less spicy, you could serve a gorgeous

grilled fish

Alternatively you can stuff the slits with slices of lemon, rosemary, chopped garlic and

onion, baste with apple juice and wrap in foil. Cook in a hot oven for about 20 to 25 minutes

until the fish flakes easily with a fork.

A Seychelles speciality is the fabulously flavoursome carri koko, which in Seychelles is

usually made using octopus. Octopus is often available in supermarkets if you don’t mind

preparing it. To get it really tender, give it a good bashing with a steak hammer; then cook it

in salted water and allow to cool. If this seems like too much of a bother, just use any white

fish of your choosing. Fry onions gently in oil until transparent, then add some turmeric,

the fish or octopus and chilli powder (or chopped chillies). A coconut curry is usually more

gently spiced than other curries so you might want to add less in the way of chilli than you

usually would. After cooking for a few minutes, add ground ginger (about an inch) and a few

finely chopped garlic cloves and then the coconut milk which is easily available in tins and

cartons. Simmer very gently for about half an hour.

It is easy to make great garlic prawns for a tasty appetiser. Fry three or four peeled,

chopped garlic cloves in oil, and add three chopped tomatoes, a teaspoon of chopped

chillies, and a teaspoon lemon juice then season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the

prawns and cook quickly, stirring often until they are cooked through.

You can make beautiful fish-balls using cod, (or an alternative as suggested earlier),

haddock or salmon. In Seychelles you might like to use bonito. Cook the fish pieces in water

with salt and pepper, drain well and squeeze out excess water, then set aside. To make the

sauce, heat olive oil and fry chopped ginger, garlic and onions, add some chopped fresh

tomatoes, tomato puree, two chillies (for a spicier sauce) and cook for a few minutes,

stirring occasionally. Keep warm whilst you prepare the fish-balls. To make these, finely chop

two onions and combine in a bowl with some ginger, garlic and the carefully shredded fish.

Add two eggs, thyme, three tablespoons of flour, salt and pepper and mix together into a

firm mixture which you can shape into little balls and set aside in the refrigerator for a few

hours to firm up. Heat some oil and roll each ball in flour before frying for a few minutes,

turning carefully. Drain on kitchen towel and then add to the warm rougaille sauce. You

could alternatively also use tinned or fresh mackerel or salmon, and make the balls as above

but instead of adding eggs, mix in mashed potato and add the juice of half a lime. Shape

into balls or cakes, dip in beaten egg and coat with breadcrumbs before frying until golden

brown and serve the sauce separately.

To complement your fish feast you will want to serve rice cooked the local way. To serve

four use 227 grammes (eight ounces) of rice (reduce the amount according to the numbers

you are cooking for), and wash carefully in several changes of water. Drain and boil for up

to half an hour in half a litre of water, then drain and wash again. Add water to cover and

cook very gently with the lid on the pan until the water is absorbed (about 20 minutes).

To accompany the fish, you could try aubergine chutney or aubergine fritters. To make the

chutney, take two or three aubergines and grill them, in the skins in a baking dish in a hot

oven. When you can easily push a knife or skewer into them, remove, cool and peel. Mash

the flesh and set aside. Chop a large onion, squeeze the juice from two limes and chop

chillies (as many as you wish). Mix the aubergine with the onions and a little oil, add salt

and pepper and the lime juice. This makes lovely cooling chutney to serve with a spicy main.

To make aubergine fritters slice the aubergine and soak in salted water for five minutes.

Squeeze the salt water out of the slices and dry. Make a batter with two eggs and two

tablespoons of flour whisked together. Dip the slices of aubergine in the batter and deep fry.

Your fish feast is complete. Light a few scented candles (bought in Seychelles of course),

pour out a Seybrew (if you have some) or brew a pot of citronelle tea, put on a CD of

camtole music and enjoy your Seychelles experience no matter where you are. $


The English Public House Hallowed Haunts of a Bygone Age

By Peter Holthusen.by Peter Holthusen

The origins of the English pub probably lie in

the Roman tabernae vinariae, small shops

where wine and food were served to customers

seated on stools around a communal table. But the

oldest extant pubs in England date back to about

the 11th century, like The Cat and Fiddle at Hinton

Admiral in Hampshire, or The Church House Inn at

Rattery in Devon. The claim to being the oldest pub

in England has always been hotly disputed, but the

most likely contenders to this title are pubs that can

trace their origins to the hospices set up by monks to

accommodate travellers and pilgrims on their way to

holy shrines.

Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem in Nottingham for

instance, takes its name from the 12th century knights

who answered the calls of King Richard I to join the

Third Crusade to the Holy Land, and stopped off at

this now legendary watering hole for a flagon of ale

on their way to Jerusalem.

Travellers to the city of Nottingham today still

invariably find their way to this quaint old inn

which is carved into the rock and is connected

with the labyrinth of sandstone caves at the foot

of Nottingham Castle. As the sign on the side of

this ancient building says, it truly is ‘Well known

throughout the World’, but the very first question

every visitor asks inevitably relates to how it came to

have such an unusual name.

The answer to this lies in the date painted on the

exterior walls of the Inn, that of 1189 AD. This was

Above: The interior of Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem is a remarkable testament to its age, for this ancient Inn is literally carved into the rock and connected with the labyrinth of sandstone caves at the foot of Nottingham Castle.

Phot

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ourt

esy

Pete

r Hol

thus

en


the year of ascension to the throne of King Richard I,

known as ‘Richard the Lionheart’, and one of his first

acts as King of England was to crusade against the

Saracens who at that time occupied the Holy Land of

Christian Religion.

Nottingham Castle was established on the rock

in 1068 by William Peverill, the illegitimate son of

William the Conqueror and was a stronghold favoured

by King Richard I and legend also has it that his

knights who stopped off at the Inn at the foot of

the Castle for welcome refreshments coined the

expression ‘one for the road’.

After the building of the Castle, one of the first

additions would have been the Brewhouse. Since

water for drinking was notoriously bad in the Middle

Ages, ale was brewed and drank, because as well

as providing alcohol, the brewing process served to

sterilise the drink. Given that in the Middle Ages, a

‘trip’ was not a journey as such but rather a resting

place where such a journey could be broken, it is

understandable how the Inn came to be called ‘Ye

Olde Trip To Jerusalem’.

Much of the history of the Inn is very poorly

recorded. An archaeological dig in 1974 proved

conclusively that the location of the original

Brewhouse could only be that of the caves of Ye Olde

Trip To Jerusalem. This established that the Castle

Brewhouse existed prior to 1189 AD but the first

dated reference to be found is in the records of the

City Council for the year 1618.

The first reference to the Inn with a name came in

Charles Deering’s 1751 book, History of the Antiquities of Nottingham, where he referred to it as ‘The Pilgrim’.

Bearing in mind the connection with the Court of St.

John of Jerusalem it seems but a short step to the

present day name ‘Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem’, which

first appeared in Willoughby’s Directory of Nottingham,

dated 1799.

Not long ago the thought of staying overnight in

a pub would conjure up images of cheaply furnished

bedrooms, the smell of stale smoke, food and beer,

and very basic shared bathrooms at the end of dimly

lit corridors. How things have changed over the last

decade! Pubs in England are rapidly becoming our new

breed of country house hotels and restaurants.

Thanks largely to celebrity chefs the gastropub

revolution of the early 90s changed the face of the

English pub forever. The rise of food-driven pubs has

continued unabated and there have also been major

improvements in the range and quality of both their

wine and beer, with more and more pubs now offering

stylish, well-appointed accommodation crammed

with creature comforts.

So today, having dined on fabulous food, enjoyed

interesting wines and locally brewed hand-pumped

ales, you can round off your evening by climbing the

stairs to retire to a charming, individually decorated

bedroom with luxurious en suite facilities.

Nestling in the middle of the rustic Wiltshire

village of Hindon, only 20 minutes drive from

Below: To this day, The Lamb at Hindon retains plenty of its original character and old-world charm with features including inglenook fireplaces, flagstone floors and heavy oak beams.


Salisbury, The Lamb at Hindon is a place where

shooting parties come for dinner, where farmers meet

to chew the cud. They come for huge oak settles,

exposed beams, rich red walls and roaring log fires.

The Lamb as it is known among the locals, began

trading as a public house probably as early as the 12th

century. By 1870, it was already well established as a

posting inn that supplied 300 post horses for coaches

going to and from London and the West Country. To this

day, the building retains plenty of its original character

and old-world charm with features including inglenook

fireplaces, flagstone floors and heavy oak beams.

As you enter the portal of the wisteria-clad

entrance you will find the Dining Room, the Bar,

the Sitting Room and a Meeting Room as well

as 19 charming bedrooms (four with four-poster

beds), which have been individually decorated with

antique furnishings and paintings. The décor is warm

and welcoming and very much in keeping with the

traditional style of the Inn, with several rooms named

after the world’s greatest whiskies.

It is often difficult to dislodge the chocolate box and

chintz clichés that come to mind when contemplating

the Chilterns. The exquisite picture-perfect village of

Dorchester-on-Thames near Oxford, home to The White

Hart Hotel, does little to dispel this notion.

A stay at this former 16th century coaching Inn

is an experience to behold. Antiques, exposed beams,

roaring log fires and traditional English furnishings lend

character, comfort and charm in winter, whilst the

manicured gardens of nearby Dorchester Abbey offer a

secluded, delightful and relaxing setting in the summer

months, where Red Kites soar effortlessly in the

thermals above the steeple. The 28 en suite bedrooms,

including the splendid Abingdon Suite in the beamed-

attic, are stylish with beautiful fabrics, pristine

linen, and a plethora of other treats. Should you

decide to whimsy away your time here it will

not be wasted and The White Hart Hotel will be

embedded in your soul.

If you’re looking for a cosy hideaway that’s

conveniently close to the A1 and within striking

distance of Harrogate and the rural delights of the

Yorkshire Dales, then The Boar’s Head, set within the

heart of the magnificent Ripley Castle Estate, fits the

bill nicely.

The Ingilby family have been receiving visitors

at Ripley Castle for 700 years. Some, like Oliver

Cromwell, were highly unwelcome: he found himself

held at pistol point overnight in the Library by the

redoubtable ‘Trooper’ Jane Ingilby. The Boar’s Head

takes its name from the ferocious animal which

was killed by a 14th century ancestor while it was

attacking King Edward III, who had fallen from his

horse during a hunting party on the Estate.

Thomas Ingilby of Ripley Castle became the hero of

the hour by transforming the animal from principal villain

to the main course at the ensuing banquet, earning

himself a Knighthood and family crest in the process.

One of the Great Inns of Britain, the hotel has won

numerous awards for its food, high levels of service

and comfort. Many of the 25 comfortable bedrooms

overlook the village’s cobbled market square, the

historic All Saints’ Church and Weeping Cross, others,

the beautifully manicured courtyard gardens at the

rear of the hotel.

Children and well behaved dogs are welcome.

There are some wonderful walks around the area and

the beautiful spa town of Harrogate is only three

miles away. Guests to the Boar’s Head are provided

Left: The Lamb at Hindon is a yard of England’s finest cloth, nestling in the middle of the rustic Wiltshire village from which it takes its name, a place where shooting parties come for dinner, and where farmers meet to chew the cud.

The Lamb as it is known

among the locals, began

trading as a public house

probably as early as

the 12th century. By

1870, it was already well

established as a posting

inn that supplied 300

post horses for coaches

going to and from

London and the West

Country


with free tickets to visit the Castle and its beautiful

walled gardens, deer park, art gallery, farm shop, gift

shop, tea rooms and much more – the perfect recipe

for a great stay in Yorkshire.

Regularly described as one of the most beautiful

villages in England, Great Tew is an ancient Oxfordshire

hamlet, enticingly lost within the rolling folds of a

limestone ridge overlooking the Worton Valley and

filled with timeless thatched cottages. At its heart is

The Falkland Arms, a positively delightful 16th century

inn, so content with its lot it could almost be a

figment of your imagination.

The Falkland Arms boasts an enviable tradition in

the brewing of fine beers and real ales. Five hundred

years on and the fire still roars in the flagstoned bar

under a low ceiling that drips with jugs, mugs and

old pewter tankards. Here, the hop is treated with

reverence; guest ales are changed weekly

and old pump clips hang from the bar.

They are famed for their selection

of beers, cider, whiskies and country

wines. In keeping with the rest of the

village, tradition runs deep; they stock

endless tins of snuff with great names

like Crumbs of Comfort and Irish High

Toast, and tobacco which can be smoked

(outside) in ready-filled clay pipes.

In summer, Morris Men jingle in the

lane outside and life spills out onto the

parasoled terrace at the front of the Inn,

and into the beautiful gardens behind.

Despite the changes, The Falkland

Arms has lost none of its original

charm and character. Enter a beamy

bar full of simple benches, high-backed

settles, cosy corners, logs glowing in

the inglenook fireplace, cribbage and

cards and pints of Wadworth 6X tapped

direct from the cask.

The dining room is tiny and intimate with oak

beams, stone walls, an imposing grandfather clock and

a mug-festooned ceiling.

Their bedrooms which are reached off winding

old corridors and stairs are tremendous value for

money and full of uncluttered country pub elegance.

Impeccably refurbished in 2004, they retain the charm

of the 16th century building. Guests often say that a

stay at The Falkland Arms is like stepping back in time;

with low ceilings, traditional leaded windows and

stunning views.

The Falkland Arms is a hidden gem and located

as it is just eight kilometres (five miles) east of

Chipping Norton and only 13 kilometres (eight miles)

southwest of Banbury, the quintessentially English

setting of Great Tew takes a lot of beating. $

Above: Regularly described as one of the most beautiful villages in England, Great Tew is an ancient Oxfordshire hamlet, enticingly lost within the rolling folds of a limestone ridge overlooking theWorton Valley and filled with timeless thatched cottages. At its heart is The Falkland Arms, apositively delightful 16th century Inn, so content with its lot it could almost be a figment of your imagination.


Seychelles Tourist Board figures show that tourist visitors to the country outnumber the local

population by about two to one. Interestingly, it is similar for another type of visitor arriving by

air: three out of every four species of bird recorded in the islands are visitors.

Seychelles is famous among birdwatchers for its rare land birds, many of them breeding nowhere

else on earth. The islands are also famous for huge, spectacular seabird colonies where hundreds of

thousands, sometimes even millions of birds breed in densely packed colonies; but breeding land birds

and seabirds only make up a small minority of the bird species recorded in the islands.

The full list of all birds recorded in Seychelles is fascinating, and includes visitors from as far

afield as the Arctic and the Antarctic. For the birdwatcher resident in Seychelles this is where the real

excitement is to be found. Forget about all those rare endemics. Fascinating as they may be, no one

leaps out of bed in the morning full of the joys of searching for a Seychelles bulbul or a sunbird. Even if

they are unique to the islands they are just a part of the everyday backdrop. What makes the discovery

of migrants so interesting is their unpredictability. You just never know what might turn up.

Above: A male Amur Falcon, a visitor from northeast Asia, surveys the greens at Seychelles Golf Club.

Phot

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esy

Adria

n Sk

erre

tt

Visitors by Air to SeychellesVisitors by Air to Seychelles By Adrian Skerrett.


As a birdwatcher resident in Seychelles I have very

often found rare birds without even trying. Once, I

stopped my car at Anse Etoile on my way home to

admire some beautiful blue-cheeked bee-eaters, a

species that occasionally invades Seychelles in large

numbers. Accompanying them on their journey from

Asia was a Plain Martin, the first ever recorded in

Seychelles. Then there was the time I didn’t even need

to leave my office: I glanced out of the window to see

a reed cormorant, only the second one ever recorded

in the islands. On another occasion, I flew to Alphonse

for Christmas and as the plane came in to land,

I spotted a strange bird similar to the lapwings

of Europe but with broad black and white wings.

It turned out to be a Sociable Lapwing and the first

record not just for Seychelles but for the entire

southern hemisphere.

But why do so many of these wanderers find

their way to Seychelles? There are several reasons.

An oceanic location means that migrants on a long

sea passage are inevitably attracted to land and the

chance to feed and take a break. When that land

is a small island, your chances of spotting them are

greatly enhanced. Africa lies to the west of Seychelles

and African species, including kingfishers, ducks and

swallows, sometimes stray away from the continent

in the direction of Seychelles. Some birds such as

Broad-billed Rollers migrate between Madagascar

and Africa so it is not surprising they sometimes

occur in Seychelles. To the south there is nothing but

water between Seychelles and Antarctica from where

seabirds may wander thousands of miles northward

during the austral winter. But the main reason for

the large number of migrant species to be seen in

Seychelles is thousands of miles to the north.

The Indian Ocean is the only ocean in the world

to be completely enclosed on its northern boundary.

Each year the mighty land mass of Eurasia attracts

huge numbers of birds from Africa to enjoy the long

daylight hours of summer and plentiful food supplies.

As summer draws to a close, the days get shorter and

the temperature falls: it is time for a billion birds to

be on the move and seek asylum from the creeping

cold of winter. Most, but not all will spend the next

six months in Africa or on the southern rim of Asia.

Many will find themselves winging over the Indian

Ocean and by luck or good judgement some will reach

Seychelles. Birds visiting Seychelles include a high

number of Asian species and Seychelles is the only

place in the entire African region where they have

been recorded.

Just like the human tourists, the coast is a big

attraction for migrant birds, but rather than the

pure white sands of Beau Vallon beach wading birds

generally prefer muddy areas, where they can probe

for worms and crustaceans. The mudflats near the

Interisland Quay at Victoria are a good place to see

wading birds, many of them from as far north as

Siberia and the Arctic Ocean. The black-and-white

Crab Plover is something of an exception being a

speciality species of the northwest Indian Ocean. It

is unmistakeable with its black and white livery and

a beak shaped like a tomahawk with which it bashes

crabs on the head. These birds breed on islands from

the Persian Gulf to Somalia, migrating south as far

as South Africa. A very high proportion of the world

population winters in Seychelles especially in the

lagoons of the outer islands, but in the granitic islands

they can also be seen at Providence on Mahé or Baie

Ste Anne on Praslin.

Below: A Glossy Ibis, perhaps from Africa perhaps Europe, takes residence at Eden Island.

Below right: Spur-winged Lapwing at Victoria. This is a common bird in Africa but a rare visitor to Seychelles.

As a birdwatcher resident in

Seychelles I have very often found rare birds without

even trying


One of the most common waders to be found on

the Seychelles shoreline is the Ruddy Turnstone. They

breed on Arctic shores, migrating south to coastlines

almost everywhere apart from Antarctica. One ringed

at Cousin in November 1982 was recovered and

released in August 1986 in Kazakhstan, a distance

of over 5,300 kilometres from the ringing site. This

same bird was found on La Digue in November 1988

which implies quite strongly that it was pinpointing

Seychelles as its destination of choice. Similar

evidence comes from Bird Island where birds with

coloured rings have disappeared from the island for

the breeding season and then miraculously reappear

come the autumn.

For other species, landing up in Seychelles may be

purely fortuitous. How else do you explain occasional

records of Buff-breasted Sandpiper, which breeds

mainly in Arctic Canada and migrates to Argentina,

but turns up sometimes on entirely the wrong side of

the globe? No one knows for sure, but one possibility

is ‘compass error’. In some species, birds may get

their navigational direction confused and begin

their migration by flying 180˚ the wrong way. So for

example, colourful bee-eaters and hoopoes from the

Mediterranean will sometimes turn up in Britain in

autumn, when they are supposed to be heading for

Africa. If this error happens close to the North Pole

then perhaps by the time the error is corrected, the

bird is already heading south on the wrong side of the

globe, possibly more or less in line with Seychelles.

Almost every species of falcon that migrates from

Eurasia to Africa may occur in Seychelles. Common

Kestrel, Lesser kestrel, hobby, Sooty falcon and others

have been recorded. In most cases it is difficult to know

exactly where the birds come from, but from what little

we know it seems the best answer is almost anywhere.

For example a ring found on Alphonse Island (probably

from a bird that died) had once been attached to a

young Eleonora’s Falcon at Las Islas Columbretes,

Spain whilst at the other extreme, Amur falcons, which

also turn up regularly in Seychelles, only breed on the

opposite side of Eurasia. This might not be so very

surprising seeing as it appears they move southwest to

India before cutting the corner to fly over the Indian

Ocean to East Africa. Curiously, however, it was never

recorded in Seychelles until 1995. Since then it has

been one of the most frequently recorded migrant land

birds in Seychelles. Why there has been such a sudden

change in occurrence remains a mystery, though some

think it may be due to climate change. Could it be that

the inter-tropical convergence zone (the boundary

between weather systems on opposite sides of the

globe) is moving north later and impacting on the

Amur falcons’ migration route?

Waders and falcons are big strong birds and rapid

flyers, so perhaps it is not so surprising that they can

successfully cross more than 609 kilometres of Open

Ocean. Other strong flyers which regularly turn up

include swifts and martins. There is some evidence

that swallows regularly pass over Seychelles around

November time; then disappearing south before

returning around April on the way back to Eurasia. But

even tiny warblers which you would never imagine

to be strong long-distance flyers find their way to

Seychelles. Willow Warbler, whitethroat, Garden

Warbler and others have been recorded. One of my

most surprising sightings was a Chiffchaff happily

feeding in the hotel garden on Alphonse. In fact just

about any species of bird that can migrate across the

Sahara desert will one day end up in Seychelles.

For the chance to see rare migrants, the best

islands for the visiting birdwatcher to explore are the

very small and isolated ones, especially Alphonse and

Bird. Visitors to these islands in October to December

are pretty well guaranteed to see interesting species

and every year there are new surprises. Many species

like open grassy areas so airstrips are always a good

place to find birds. Every visitor to the Seychelles can

contribute to our knowledge of the birds of Seychelles

by collecting sightings of migrant birds seen during

their time in the islands. If you see a rarity, you should

report it to Seychelles Bird Records Committee via the

website: www.seychellesbirdrecordscommittee.com.

Record forms can be downloaded from the website

along with reports, latest news, birding information,

a full list of species recorded in Seychelles and much

more. Happy spotting! $

Below: Ruddy Turnstones regulary migrate back and forth from Arctic shores to Seychelles.


Cher Passager

Bienvenu au programme de fidélité Seychelles Plus.

Depuis sa lancée en Mars 2001, le programme Seychelles PLUS récompense les clients les plus fidèles d’Air Seychelles. Le voyageur d’Air Seychelles qui est membre du Seychelles PLUS peut accumuler des points PLUS sur chacun de ses vols et les échanger ensuite contre des billets primes, des franchises de bagages ou des suppléments en classe Pearl.

Ce programme très prometteur a maintenant des membres qui bénéficient des avantages et des privilèges de Seychelles PLUS dans de nombreux pays, de l’Australie aux États-Unis.

Comment le programme fonctionne t-il? Seychelles PLUS est basé sur un système de points. A chaque destination internationale d’Air Seychelles correspond une quantité allouée de points, que le membre gagne à la fin de chaque voyage aller-retour.

Le programme comporte trois niveaux d’adhésion, basé sur le nombre de points que le membre a gagné au cours d’une année civile.

La Carte ‘BLUE’De 0 à3999 points PLUS, ce niveau permet au membre de profiter de l’adhésion permanente au club Seychelles Plus.

Join the club Seychelles PLUS

Dear passenger

Welcome to the Seychelles PLUS frequent flyer programme.

Launched in March 2001, the Seychelles Plus programme rewards Air Seychelles’ most faithful clients. The frequent Air Seychelles traveller accumulates PLUS points on each voyage, against which he or she can claim for free travel, to any Air Seychelles destination, free excess baggage as well as Pearl Class supplements.

The programme has shown great promise and now has members all the way from Australia, through to the United States, enjoying the benefits and privileges of Seychelles PLUS.

How the programme works:Seychelles PLUS is points based. Each international destination Air Seychelles flies to has an allocated number of points, which the member earns upon each completion of a return trip.

The programme has three tiers of membership, based on the number of points the member has earned over a calendar year.

BLUE TIERFrom 0-3,999 PLUS points, this level enables the member to enjoy: Permanent membership to the club.

SILVER TIERMembers, who have between 4,000-7,999 PLUS points, enjoy Silver Tier benefits such as:• Wait list priority.• Seat selection, depending on availability.• 10 kilogrammes excess baggage.

GOLD TIERHaving accumulated 8,000 PLUS points, the members of this level enjoy:• First wait list priority.• 20 kilogrammes excess baggage.• Check-in at Pearl Class desk.• Seat selection upon availability.• Access to the Commercially Important Person (CIP) lounge.

To join the Seychelles PLUS frequent flyer programme you can:• Request for an application form from the cabin crew on board this flight.• Visit us at our Head Office at Seychelles International Airport.• Apply online: www.airseychelles.com/seychellesplus.

Members can access their own statement online at www.airseychelles. com/seychellesplus or request for their statement by phone, post fax or e-mail.

La carte ‘SILVER’Les membres qui ont entre 4000 et 7999 points PLUS profitent des avantages tels que :• Priorité en liste d’attente.• Sélection de siège, selon la disponibilité.• 10 kg de bagages excédentaires.

La Carte ‘GOLD’Ayant accumulé 8000 points PLUS, les membres de ce niveau apprécient :• Priorité automatique en liste d’attente. • Franchise de bagages de 20kgs.• Enregistrement au comptoir PEARL (classe affaires).• Sélection de siège selon la disponibilité.• Accès au salon des Personnes Commercialement Importantes (CIP).

Pour rejoindre le programme de fidélisation Seychelles PLUS, vous pouvez:• Demander votre formulaire d’adhésion à l’hôtesse de bord.• Sur place aux Seychelles, l’obtenir auprès de notre administration centrale à Pointe Larue.• Vous Inscrire en ligne sur le site www.airseychelles.com/seychellesplus.

Les membres peuvent obtenir leur situation de compte en ligne à www. airseychelles.com/seychellesplus ou adresser leur demande, par téléphone, fax ou courriel à l’équipe Seychelles PLUS.

For more information call us on +248 439 13 05 / 438 11 54, E-mail: [email protected].

Pour de plus amples informations, appelez-nous au +248 439 13 05 / 438 11 54 couriel: [email protected]

The frequent flyer programme of Air Seychelles EARN YOUR PLUS POINTS AND FLY FOR FREE

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Camerapix Publ ishers Internat ional has bui l t an internat ional reputat ionfor i ts growing range of qual i ty books & magazines on stunning landscapes, colourful

cultures, r ich and var ied wi ldl i fe .

These books make your reading a real adventure . Camerapix dedicat ion to excel lence is d isplayed in the qual i ty of i ts photography, wr i t ing and the �nished product .

Camerapix a lso o�ers des igning & high resolut ion scanning serv ices equipped with state-of-the-art equipment and exper ienced team of creat ive designers.

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In 1214, Albizzo da Piore, a high official in the Italian state of Padua, created a

pleasant diversion for his friends and family. He created a Court of Solace and Mirth at the heart of which was a castle of love. It was defended by the most beautiful and noble ladies of the court, and the greatest nobles laid siege to it with an armoury of fruit, including apples, dates and pears; flowers including roses and lilies and spices amongst which were cloves, cardamom and cinnamon

quills; which strange munitions fell upon battlements constructed from furs, velvets and brocades. No doubt great fun was had by all.

There is likely a bottle of ground cinnamon lurking in the back of most kitchen cupboards these days; used rarely except perhaps in baking or to brew up a Christmas batch of mulled wine. We take it for granted, but when Albizzo was having his up-market food fight, the cinnamon he gave to his friends to throw at each other was worth a fortune: worth more per pound than some of his subjects could earn in a year. In fact, the possession of cinnamon

Cinnamona Spicy StoryBy Judith Skerrett.

was such a symbol of wealth and decadence it was ostentatiously wasted or destroyed in order to demonstrate just how wealthy you were. For example the Lord Mayor of London, to whom King Henry V owed money, publicly burned the king’s IOU’s (I Owe You) in a fire fuelled with cinnamon and cloves. In a similar gesture, a wealthy merchant burned the promissory notes of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, together with a bundle of cinnamon. The cinnamon he burned was actually more valuable than the IOU’s.

In antiquity it was believed that cinnamon came from Arabia, and it was so expensive because of the difficulty in obtaining it. Huge birds built their nests from cinnamon sticks high up on steep cliffs which were impossible to climb. The ingenious Phoenicians left the carcasses of dead animals at the foot of the cliffs. The birds swept down on the meat, carrying it up to their nests. Eventually the weight of the meat brought the nest tumbling down and the sticks could be gathered. No wonder the spice was so expensive! In the first century BC a Roman pound of cinnamon (350 grammes) cost a 1,000 denarii; equivalent in value to more than five kilogrammes of silver; in other words it was worth, pound for pound, 15 times as much as the precious metal.

In fact the cinnamon tree ‘proper’(Cinnamomum zeylandicum )originated from Sri Lanka, and Sri Lankan

Below: Cinnamon sticks from which ground cinnamon (above) is made.

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Camerapix Publ ishers Internat ional has bui l t an internat ional reputat ionfor i ts growing range of qual i ty books & magazines on stunning landscapes, colourful

cultures, r ich and var ied wi ldl i fe .

These books make your reading a real adventure . Camerapix dedicat ion to excel lence is d isplayed in the qual i ty of i ts photography, wr i t ing and the �nished product .

Camerapix a lso o�ers des igning & high resolut ion scanning serv ices equipped with state-of-the-art equipment and exper ienced team of creat ive designers.

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cinnamon is still considered by purists to be the finest product. However there are several trees from which a cinnamon-like product can be obtained and these grow in various parts of the world. Cassia (Cinnamomum cassia), probably the best known alternative, came from China though it quickly spread across Southeast Asia. In fact if you do have a jar of ‘cinnamon’ on your cupboard shelf, it is in fact most probably cassia. Although its bark is coarser, it is more pungent than cinnamon itself, and is easier to process, which is why most ‘cinnamon’ used in the west is actually ground cassia.

In Sri Lanka, cinnamon trees, which will grow to about 15 metres if left to themselves, are kept to a height of just over two metres to make harvesting easier. They are grown in plantations propagated by means of setting seeds or cuttings. When the tree is three years old, it is cut back so that it produces new shoots. These shoots are harvested after two years: the outer bark is then scraped off to reveal the light inner bark which is the product required. It is dried for several days, curling naturally into parchment-like ‘quills’ which are then sorted into grades, and expertly wrapped into thin bundles. Cassia is harvested in a similar fashion, but is usually powdered rather than sold in quills. An oil can be distilled from the leaves which is used as a mosquito repellent and may have some medicinal virtues; it is also used in the cosmetic industry and is an ingredient in some liqueurs.

You can easily find cinnamon growing in Seychelles; it is extremely common and grows from sea level to the very highest peaks on Mahé

and Praslin. It is most usually seen in bush form; a rather unremarkable shrub with dark, glossy green leaves which looks like a laurel. It only really stands out when the new leaves, which flush a vibrant red, emerge. In Seychelles cinnamon grows wild; in fact it has become a pest and environmentalists are trying to eradicate it in the national parks to encourage native species.

Cinnamon was once so valuable that men were prepared to go far and suffer much in order to obtain it. The Europeans were addicted to heavily spiced foods but had to pay a fortune for the exotic ingredients because getting them from east to west, overland, took so long and involved such danger and difficulty the prices were hugely inflated. If only it were possible to shorten the journey the spices had to take, to cut out the long land-leg of the journey to Europe! Partly with this in mind Christopher Columbus set sail, hoping to find a source of spices and how they could be brought home reliably and cheaply by sea. Unfortunately when he proudly showed the exotic discoveries he had made during his voyage although he was convinced he was displaying to the astonished audience wonderful things from the east, including cinnamon he was mistaken. His ‘cinnamon’ did look a little like cinnamon, but the taste was odd. Columbus told everyone it had deteriorated during the voyage, but some were cynical and in due course they were proved correct. Columbus had been in the West Indies, and cinnamon does not grow in the West Indies.

The true source of the spice was finally ‘discovered’ in Sri Lanka in 1505 by another Portuguese explorer, Lorenzo da Almeida. Once

Above: The outer bark of the cinnamon tree is usually scrapped off to reveal the light inner back which is the product required.

Above left: The bark is dried for several days, curling naturally into parchment like ‘quilles’.


it was found, the Portuguese wanted all the cinnamon their ships could carry. They established bases on the coast and by 1580 had such power over the Singhalese that they were demanding an annual tribute from local rulers of 127 tonnes of cinnamon a year. Unsurprisingly the locals were not happy and asked the Dutch to intervene against the Portuguese on their behalf. Sadly the plan backfired. Sure enough the Dutch did oust the Portuguese but then took over their monopoly of the cinnamon trade and became even worse tyrants than their predecessors. In fact anyone caught selling cinnamon themselves or smuggling plants out of the country was liable to a death penalty.

Such was the situation when a French administrator with a keen interest in botany was sent out as the new intendant or supervisor of the French settlement on Mauritius. Pierre Poivre was returning home from China in 1740 when his ship was attacked by the English. His arm was so badly wounded it had to be amputated. He was put ashore at Batavia (Jakarta) to recuperate. The Dutch had established themselves there, as in Sri Lanka, and had a monopoly in trading the spices grown on the Indonesian islands which included clove and nutmeg. As with cinnamon, their monopoly was ruthlessly enforced. Poivre saw for himself how the spices were cultivated, and how rich the trade made the Dutch. A patriotic Frenchman, he wanted some of those spoils for his own country, and as an interested amateur botanist, he was fascinated by the way in which the plants were grown and wanted to try it himself. When he was sent to Mauritius he thought he had the ideal opportunity to try and grow cloves, nutmeg, pepper and cinnamon, but first he had to obtain some plants or seeds.

This was no easy task: over a period of several years Poivre and his secret agents literally risked their lives in order to secure seeds and cuttings. Heartbreakingly, having brought some precious samples back to Mauritius, many of them died and he had little support from the authorities for his spice-growing projects in any case. He was appointed intendant of Mauritius in 1767 and now with royal backing he had more success, although his achievements only attracted scorn and even hostility from the settlers of Mauritius. When the remote Seychelles islands were settled by the French in 1770, Poivre thought he had found the perfect place for the establishment of a ‘spice garden’. Here, apparently, was a perfect climate for their cultivation, and the islands were so little known to most navigators that it would be relatively easy to keep the plants safe from envious European powers such as the English, or rampaging Dutchmen intent on wiping out rival supplies.

His agent, Antoine Gillot, arrived in Seychelles with some precious seedlings of nutmeg, pepper, cloves and cinnamon. He established a garden at Anse Royale on Mahé, and tended the plants as best as he could, in difficult circumstances, for several years. The project, however, was not a success. When Poivre returned to France the new administrators on Mauritius had no interest in spice growing. Gillot was left in need of labour; in need of food even. By 1770 all official backing was withdrawn, and Gillot’s only recompense was a grant of the land upon which the spice garden had been planted. By

1780 this was overgrown and unrecognisable as a plantation. The spices had not thrived and it seemed that the Seychelles were not, perhaps, the ideal habitat for them; with the exception of the cinnamon which had already escaped the confines of the garden and begun to colonise the mountainsides denuded by the felling of the indigenous forest to build houses and ships, and for export. And so the rare cinnamon, once valued more precious than silver, has become, in Seychelles at least, a nuisance; a weed so common people are paid to root it out: Albizzo would be most surprised. $


Bienvenue au Parc National du Morne Seychellois: plus de 30 km2 de montagnes et de forêt brumeuse s’étendant sur le massif

occidental et central de Mahé et s’élevant à près de 3.000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer. C’est un endroit fantastique, spectaculaire et donnant un sentiment d’humilité. Explorez-le à pied ou en voiture, mais ne quittez pas les Seychelles sans en savourer la splendeur. C’est l’un des plus beaux endroits au monde.

Les puristes voudront le faire eux-mêmes: prenez l’une des pistes signalisées serpentant à travers la forêt jusqu’aux sommets du Mont Blanc, des Trois Frères ou même le point découvert le plus élevé du Morne Seychellois. Les sentiers sont signalisés et il y a des dépliants qui donnent des consignes et des informations, mais même les randonneurs et les grimpeurs expérimentés devraient prendre connaissance de quelques points importants avant de se lancer. Les sentiers sont escarpés, parfois vraiment très escarpés, et sous les arbres il fait chaud, humide et sans air. Les sentiers ne sont pas régulièrement fréquentés et la végétation pousse très rapidement dans ces forêts tropicales brumeuses. D’où les chemins sont vite couverts de végétation et difficiles à repérer. Prenez votre temps quand vous voulez savoir la direction d’un sentier, et si vous avez un dépliant guide, servez-vous en. Bien que vous n’ayez pas besoin d’équipement spécialisé, vous devez avoir des chaussures assez robustes et une bonne provision d’eau. Il est également recommandé d’informer quelqu’un de votre destination, juste au cas où vous vous perdez ou quelqu’un du groupe a un accident.

Rappelez-vous que l’obscurité tombe très vite et prévoyez assez de temps pour votre randonnée. Il n’y a aucun animal dont on peut avoir peur, ni de serpents venimeux méchants ni d’insectes piquants (sauf les inévitables moustiques). Peut-être le plus grand “danger” est que, quand vous vous éloignez du sentier, il est facile de poser le pied sur ce qui apparait comme la terre ferme et découvrir qu’en fait c’est un tapis de végétation en décomposition; ou de mettre votre pied sur ce qui ressemble à un morceau de bois solide alors qu’il est pourri à l’intérieur et cède sous votre pied. Faites gaffe quand vous attrapez une branche pour vous retenir de tomber; bon nombre de plantes de la forêt brumeuse ont des épines. Après la pluie, les sentiers deviennent très glissants, surtout la descente et il est facile de glisser. Mais si vous êtes en bonne condition physique, usez de votre bon sens et posez vos pieds avec attention. Il est relativement facile d’atteindre certaines des régions les plus vierges et fascinantes de la forêt brumeuse de Mahé.

Vous n’avez pas à désespérer si vous ne vous sentez pas à la hauteur de ce défi physique. La route du Sans Souci serpente dans le parc. La circulation est rare même si la route est en bon état. Cependant, il y a beaucoup d’endroits où on peut s’arrêter pour avoir une vue singulièrement magnifique et s’imbiber de cet atmosphère. La première chose qui vous frappera est le silence. Il n’est brisé que par le coassement de petites grenouilles endémiques et le cliquetis des branches dans le couvert forestier au-dessus et, si vous entrez proprement dans la forêt brumeuse, par les gouttes d’eau qui tombent continuellement à partir de la mousse trempée en

Les Montagnes Dans la BrumePar Judith Skerrett.

A gauche: Il est relativement facile d’atteindre certaines des régions les plus vierges et fascinantes de la forêt brumeuse de Mahé


permanence et d’autres plantes qui grimpent les arbres. Ici les branches d’arbres sont emmaillotées dans la mousse verte; les fougères, les orchidées et même d’autres arbres poussent sur d’autres arbres et les plantes rampantes se balancent d’en haut exactement comme Tarzan. Mais il serait fou de leur confier votre poids! Même si la forêt est pleine de vie, on y trouve aussi la pourriture: celle-ci vous entoure, de l’épais tapis de feuilles mortes en décomposition sous vos pieds aux branches en pourriture au-dessus de votre tête. Après la pluie, la forêt dégage une odeur semblable à celle d’un chou qu’on cuit. Elle donne l’impression d’un monde vierge; un monde du temps d’avant l’apparition des mammifères dans lequel plusieurs créatures devaient évoluer. Les invertébrés, insectes et scinques; les serpents, grenouilles minuscules, millepattes, insectes de feuilles, phasmes, caméléons et escargots sont secrètement occupés dans leurs royaumes de végétation

en décomposition, causant un bruissement bizarre. A part ces micro-animaux, il y a très peu de mouvements. La forêt est même très élevée pour les oiseaux. Vers les sommets, le seul bruit que vous pourrez entendre est le rire moqueur et les huées des rossignols, aux flancs des montagnes. Ils n’osent pas s’aventurer en pleine forêt brumeuse.

Si vous voulez gouter à cette expérience mais que vous êtes retissant de partir seul, il y a des guides locaux qui dirigent les randonnées dans les montagnes. Non seulement ils connaissent bien les chemins, mais aussi ils maitrisent la flore et la faune et enrichiront votre expérience en vous montrant des choses qui pourraient échapper à l’œil d’un simple observateur. Ils connaissent très bien les pistes et peuvent choisir celles qui correspondent à votre condition physique.

Parmi les sentiers que vous pouvez choisir, il y a la route des Trois Frères, qui monte immédiatement après le poste forestier le long de la route du Sans Souci. Plusieurs arbres kalis d pap et santol bordent le début du sentier jusqu’au point de 700 mètres, le deuxième point le plus élevé de Mahé, et le troisième des Seychelles. Au cours de cette randonnée, il est possible de voir les sarracénies pourpres des Seychelles, endémiques et insectivores. Elles poussent de façon désordonnée en s’enroulant autour d’autres plantes et arbustes, les vrilles charnues se terminant soit par de parfaits gobelets couverts de la plante, dans lesquelles les insectes sont attirés et piégés, incapables de remonter les parois glissantes pour se libérer, soit par des feuilles couleur peau de pomme, rose pâle et vertes.

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Ci-dessus: Le Mainate bruyant, Introduit à Maurice à partir de l’Inde pour contrôler les locustes - et de là aux Seychelles.

En entrant dans la forêt, vous pourrez voir ou plus probablement entendre, l’un des deux oiseaux les plus rares de Mahé – si rares en effet que le plus clair de ce siècle les experts pensaient que ce tout petit oiseau gris-brun aux yeux entourés d’un cercle blanc s’était éteint. Il se déplace dans les arbres à la chasse des insectes avec d’autres membres de sa famille, et trahit sa présence par un chant doux, presqu’un murmure. Malheureusement, le très solitaire strigidé à pattes nues, comme c’est l’habitude de tous les strigidés, ne sort que la nuit et se voit rarement. Comme l’arbre méduse, on pensait qu’il s’était éteint jusqu’en 1959 lorsqu’il fut redécouvert par l’ornithologue Philippe Loustau-Lalanne. C’est un petit oiseau brun foncé qu’on entend plus que ne le voit. Il a un chant étrange, semblable à un crissement, qui lui a valu le surnom créole syer, qui signifie bûcheron parce il fait un son comme quelqu’un en train de scier un arbre avec une scie manuelle.

Quand vous laissez derrière les omniprésents mainates de Mahé, les seules autres espèces que vous pouvez apercevoir voltigeant dans les arbres sont les souimanga et les rossignols. Le bruyant rossignol seychellois fera toujours sentir sa présence. Il a un bec orange vif et une crête en désordre. Ils se font la chasse dans les arbres en faisant un bruit strident rauquasse. Le souimanga Seychellois n’est pas moins bruyant, les males voltigent continuellement. Il raffole du nectar des fleurs exotiques comme celles de l’hibiscus et de la banane autant que celui des plantes endémiques. Petit avec un bec courbé vers le bas, cet oiseau voltige sans arrêt. Pendant la saison de reproduction, la gorge du male devient bleu métallique avec un peu d’orange ou de jaune sur le corps sous les ailes. Quand vous sortez de la forêt, sur un rocher ou un point d’observation, cherchez le faucon crécelle seychellois ou le katiti, qui est plus petit que l’oiseau de proie familier qu’on trouve en Europe. Quand il vole, il chante continuellement: ti-ti-ti. Vous pouvez aussi voir le beau pigeon Seychellois planant au-dessus de la cime des arbres. Il a un dos bleu noir métallique profond, une poitrine blanche et des tâches rouges sur le visage.

Atteindre le sommet du Morne Seychellois qui s’élève à 900 mètre est un véritable défi, rendu spécialement difficile par le fait que la piste est difficile à suivre. Pour cela vous devez envisager sérieusement d’engager un guide sans quoi vous pouvez facilement vous perdre. Les autres pistes comprennent celui qui mène au pic de Copolia qui s’élève à 500 mètres et les 650 mètres menant au sommet du Morne Blanc. La plus belle promenade sans doute, et probablement l’une des plus longues (elle dure de quatre à six heures) est la piste de Congo Rouge qui commence près de Mission Viewpoint (près de la route du Sans Souci), passe par les noueux arbres northea et bwa rouz ruisselant de mousse humide, pour émerger sur un faîte nappé de centaines de sarracéniacées. La piste descend alors vers Le Niol et s’arrête près du réservoir.


Bien que la forêt ait été, au fil des années depuis le peuplement, envahie par la flore exotique, particulièrement l’albizzia, la cannelle et le santol, le parc abrite beaucoup d’excellentes espèces endémiques et des efforts pour remplacer les espèces exotiques avec les endémiques se poursuivent. Toutes à l’exception d’une poignée des 75 plantes uniques aux Seychelles, dont cinq des six plantes endémiques, quatre variétés de pandanus et quelques-uns des arbres et plantes les plus rares de la planète, fleurissent dans le parc. On peut citer le bwa d fer (Valeria seychellarum) qui était abondant à l’arrivée des premiers explorateurs. Il poussait droit et en hauteur, attirant irrésistiblement les constructeurs de navires à l’époque de la navigation à voile car il était idéal pour les mâts. Pour cette raison il figure maintenant sur la liste des espèces en voie de disparition. La plupart des survivants de l’invasion se sont apparemment régénérés à partir des souches. Le bwa d fer ne se retrouve sur aucune autre île, et le Parc National du Morne Seychellois abrite donc la population entière mondiale de ce très rare arbre.

Une autre rareté magnifique qu’on retrouve dans la forêt brumeuse, que les botanistes enthousiastes s’efforcent de retrouver pour l’observer, est la Medusagyne oppositifolia ou bwa mediz, seule espèce de la famille des Médusagynacées qui n’était redécouverte que dans les années 1970. Elle est si particulière et si primitive que les botanistes ont dû créer une nouvelle famille pour la classifier. Pendant plusieurs années on a pensé que seulement six arbres au sommet d’une seule colline de Mahé existaient, mais des recherches postérieures ont révélé l’existence d’environ 50 échantillons de cette singularité botanique. Il faut demander l’avis d’experts pour voir cet arbre singulier, car jusqu’à présent il ne pousse que dans quelques endroits sélectionnés.

Les espèces introduites, l’albizzia en particulier, étaient en train d’investir presque toutes les vallées, mais des efforts ardus ont été déployés pour les couper au cours des années récentes, afin de faire place aux plantes qui poussent naturellement sur les flancs des montagnes. La cannelle représente un autre envahisseur agressif. Introduite à Mahé dès les toutes premières années des peuplements, elle s’est bien adaptée, se propageant jusqu’aux plus hauts sommets des montagnes. A un certain temps, l’écorce et l’huile extraite des feuilles étaient exportées, mais les quantités éventuellement ont été réduites à des niveaux non commerciaux et le commerce s’est éteint. Malheureusement, là où la cannelle domine il y a peu ou pas de sous-bois car les produits chimiques de ses feuilles tuent les plantes rivales. On trouve parfois des cocotiers, plus familiers sur les plages, poussant même à des hauteurs considérables. C’est parce qu’à l’époque où la noix de coco était une culture commerciale dominante, une terre sans cocotiers était considérée presque invendable; ainsi les propriétaires plantaient les cocotiers partout

où ils le pouvaient, tout en haut dans les montagnes. Vous pouvez même trouver par hasard des plantes potagères tropicales poussant à l’état sauvage, seuls vestiges rappelant que quelqu’un avait à un certain moment une maison ici dans les montagnes et cultivait un jardin en haut dans les nuages.

La plupart des choses qu’un observateur ordinaire voit dans la forêt brumeuse n’ont en soit rien de spectaculaire : tout est vert et brun et ressemble à toute autre plante, fougère ou arbre. A moins que vous ne soyez botaniste ou qu’on attire votre attention sur les divers objets, vous pourriez être en train d’observer une chose extrêmement rare ou extrêmement étrange sans vous en rendre compte. Une des quelques plantes les plus ravissantes est le vanillier (Vanilla phalaenopsis ou lavanil sauvaz) qui heureusement est facile à voir, et pousse même au bord des routes. Bien qu’il ne fleurisse qu’après de fortes pluies, on voit souvent en fouillis ses tiges vertes, caoutchouteuses et sans feuilles, enchevêtrées en petits fourrés. Les fleurs sont larges et blanches avec un centre couleur pêche.

Surgissant du monde sombre et humide sous les arbres, vous serez récompensé par un panorama exceptionnel de par les flancs des montagnes et au-dessus de la mer scintillante jusqu’à l’horizon. Les forêts que vous avez traversées sont chargées d’une atmosphère sans pareille dans les Seychelles, des figures de brume y flottent entre les arbres d’une façon étrange comme des fantômes. Avec la forêt derrière vous, vous accueillerez avec joie l’air frais sur vos joues enflammées. Le silence est total sauf si la brise fait bruire les cimes des arbres. Même aux jours les plus ensoleillés, l’humeur de la montagne change à chaque instant et des nuages peuvent soudainement s’installer sur les hauteurs ou se dérouler de la mer comme une énorme couverture douce et grise, vous enveloppant dans une grise et moite étreinte.

Si vous manquez de temps ou d’énergie, vous pouvez avoir un feeling de la haute forêt au Mission Viewing Lodge, situé à un tournant de la route du Sans Souci. Une école de missionnaires s’y trouvait dans le temps et ses ruines sont encore visibles près de la piste qui mène à la plate-forme d’observation. Ce n’est qu’à une courte distance du parking et la marche est facile. La vue y est saisissante et vous aurez peut-être envie de vous y attarder, particulièrement si vous êtes seul, afin de vraiment savourer l’unique atmosphère, le silence étrange et le calme total des montagnes mystiques de Mahé. $

Ci-dessous: Un ruisseau doux coule sur des rochers couverts de lichen dans le Parc National du Morne Seychellois de Mahé.

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Ci-dessus: Un brin d’orange clair sur le bec est la signature du rossignol.

A small hotel with a big heart

The Coco D’or Hotel, is built on 3 hectares of lush tropical land, on the north west coast of Mahé. The hotel is a mere four minutes walk from Beau Vallon, one of the island’s most beautiful beaches. The Coco D’or sets itself apart from other hotels in Seychelles by virtue of its location, amenities and unparalled service philosophy.

27 appointed rooms and suites, each with a private bath, balcony, terrace and/or living room are divided into two categories:-

Standard room 24 rooms with a verandah and tropical garden, 6 rooms with a terrace and 2 with a lounge.Deluxe suites 3 rooms with a private patio terrace and mountain and garden view, two bathrooms, a kitchen- ette and a separate living room.

Coco D’or Hotel & Restaurant • T/A Nalini R. Properties (Pty) LtdBeau Vallon, Mahé, Seychelles • P.O. Box 526 Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

Phone: +248 4247331 • Fax: +248 4247454 • E-mail: [email protected]


Do you run out of steam halfway through the day? Are you stressed? Tired out? De-motivated? Worry not! Follow these vitality boosting tips to feel better fast!

Dress for energy. The colour of your clothes can affect your energy levels as colours send distinct electrical messages to the brain. Red invigorates, excites and warms the body, orange encourages appetite and reduces fatigue; yellow stimulates memory and lifts the spirits.

Need a morning energy boost? Stand in the shower for three minutes under warm water and for one minute under cold. If you have time, repeat another twice and you’ll have enough energy to run to work!

Drink more water. Water is to the body what oil is to an engine. Sometimes simple dehydration can make you feel weary and a bottle of water is an immediate pick me up even when you don’t feel thirsty.

Get some fresh air. Many people suffer from listlessness due to lack of natural daylight. For some people it can be almost debilitating, so don’t underestimate the power of getting outdoors. Make the most of every opportunity to get outside, even if it is just to hang out the washing or walk to the local shop at lunchtime.

Exercise your mind. Do crossword puzzles or try to remember a tricky yet useless list, such as cities beginning with G or work that brain with some mental arithmetic. Boredom makes our spirits sag so if you are stuck on a routine task, give your brain a mini work-out. As mental stimulation rises, the signals from your muscles to your brain increase, as do energy levels.

Tension zaps your energy so learn some simple relaxation techniques to help lower your stress levels and stay calm.

Keep a facial spray mister handy. Use it whenever you need to have a blast of instant refreshment. It is also a good way to wake up and hydrate your skin before applying make-up.

20 Waysto Boost your Energy!By Gilly Pickup.

As mental stimulation rises, the signals from your muscles to

your brain increase, as do energy levels


Energy creates energy. Making the effort to increase your activity levels is one of the most effective ways of increasing your energy levels. Exercise gets your muscles moving and the blood flowing round your body. It increases oxygen flow to the brain, lifting fatigue and boosting your body’s feel good endorphins. Just a brisk, 10 minute walk, short cycle ride or a few minutes spent running up and down the stairs can elevate your energy levels for a couple of hours.

Try to find something to laugh about especially something about yourself. Laughter is a great antidote for stress and tiredness because it releases endorphins, the body’s ‘happy’ chemicals. It benefits your heart, increases oxygen consumption, reduces muscle tension and blood pressure. What’s more, it makes you feel and look years younger! Can’t be bad!

Do something you have been putting off for ages. Sorting out files or clearing a cupboard can make you feel pleased with yourself and life. And don’t forget, happiness and energy go hand in hand.

Use smell to revive the senses. Essential oils like peppermint, rosemary, basil, lime, grapefruit, lemon grass and eucalyptus can have a potent uplifting effect and are great brain boosters. Dab pulse points with diluted oils, sprinkle a few drops on a tissue and inhale or light a scented candle.

If you’re in a mid-afternoon slump, have a banana. They are an excellent pick-me-up as they are rich in fibre and starch for quick release, slow-acting energy. They even contain mood-enhancing vitamin B6 to make you feel happier!

If you feel you’re starting to flag, try this quick acupressure revitaliser – pinch the point between your thumb and forefinger for two minutes then gradually release.

Relax! Sometimes the hardest thing to do is nothing, but that is just what some of us need every once in a while to give our bodies the opportunity to get back on track. When you are having a busy day, taking just 10 minutes out to relax can boost your energy levels and keep you going.

Some complementary therapies can be effective in helping the body take time out, Massage and aromatherapy are not only good for relaxing the body, they can energise and stimulate too.

Check your posture. Poor posture can deplete your energy levels because your body is not allowed to function properly. It also causes aches and pains and can prevent you from getting a good night’s sleep.

Kick the caffeine. As well as frazzling your nerves, the caffeine in coffee, tea and cola drains your energy levels. Switch to decaffeinated coffee and cola and drink herbal teas.

Eating little and often can maintain our energy reserves. Raw foods contain high levels of water which helps flush toxins from the body so eat more salads and vegetables.

Get a good night’s sleep. Keep your bedroom well-aired to get enough oxygen.

And last of all – simply pretend! This foolproof method never fails! When you feel a little tired, start to pretend that you have boundless energy. Act the way you would if your energy levels were 100 per cent. It is amazing how easily your body can be fooled and within a short period of time, those pretend energy levels become real. $

Exercise gets your muscles moving and the

blood flowing round your body. It increases

oxygen flow to the brain, lifting fatigue and

boosting your body’s feel good endorphins

Twinning our natural wonders for tomorrowSeychelles Islands Foundation

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Seychelles success in the tourism industry is very much linked to the tremendous efforts made in preserving our environment. Over the last decades, many marine and terrestrial National Parks and Special Reserves have been designated and, in June this year, the Seychelles’ government decided to

legally protect 50 per cent of our total land mass. This is a bold decision and these areas set aside will need to be managed effectively to achieve the goal to preserve the unique biodiversity of our archipelago.

The Seychelles Islands Foundation (SIF) is one of the organisations which has been entrusted by the government with the management of two protected areas. Created as a public trust in 1979, SIF is mandated to manage and protect the two Seychelles’ wonders of nature; Aldabra Atoll and the Vallée de Mai. The President of Seychelles is the Patron of the foundation, which existed long before the Department of Environment, and any other non-governmental organisations in the environmental sector were established. The sites were designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1982 and 1983, and thereby accepted as natural wonders of humanity. Over the last 30 years, SIF has played a pioneer role in nature conservation and environmental management of these islands. Due to the organisation’s commitment, the Aldabra research station established by the Royal Society in the 1960s has been maintained and improved and today Aldabra hosts one of the longest research and monitoring programmes in the Indian Ocean region.

Additionally SIF has established a financing mechanism for the management and protection of both sites which is based on their promotion as ecologically sustainable tourist destinations. The income generated by tourism is used not only for the operation of the two sites but to support local and international scientific research which contributes to improving understanding of biodiversity and implementation of conservation strategies. All of SIF’s work aims to fulfil Seychelles’ commitment to humanity to protect these two sites of outstanding universal importance for the future.

SIF projects

The two Seychelles’ World Heritage sites are each unique for many reasons and SIF runs a diverse array of projects focussing on research, conservation, management and education. Some examples of current projects include important work on turtles, giant tortoises, invasive species and establishing

renewable energy technology for Aldabra.The atoll hosts the region’s largest nesting population of endangered green turtles and was the first

nesting site to be protected in the Indian Ocean. Aldabra’s turtles do not face the poaching or by-catch threats typical in other areas and recent results have shown that the population has increased substantially. In a project funded by the International Sustainable Seafood Foundation, SIF will soon be attaching satellite tags to female turtles to determine where these extensive travellers go to forage when not around Aldabra.

Aldabra is also home to the world’s largest population of giant tortoises, one of only two locations where these iconic animals still exist in the wild (the Galapagos being the other) and the only place on earth whose ecosystem is dominated and shaped by a large herbivorous reptile. SIF has been monitoring these incredible animals for many years and now has the opportunity, thanks to support from researchers in Switzerland, to intensify this research and find out exactly the role of the tortoises in the Aldabran ecosystem as well as studying genetics, disease and growth to obtain a better all-round understanding of this population.

One threat to the ecological integrity of both World Heritage sites is the presence of invasive plant and animal species. SIF will be researching these threats and forming and carrying out plans to address them in a recently launched project funded by the European Union. This project offers the opportunity to address significant threats to both World Heritage sites at an ecosystem level in a single project.

SIF also aims to improve protected area management more broadly through logistical solutions. Aldabra’s dependence on traditional non-sustainable energy sources has long been a financial and environmental problem. SIF is currently transferring Aldabra’s energy system to one that is largely based on solar power. Aldabra’s remoteness and access difficulties make this a challenging project but we are making good progress and hope to see the installation and functioning of a solar energy system providing the atoll with the majority of its power within the next year.

Twinning our natural wonders for tomorrow

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H e a l t hy Tra v e l l i n g

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness

or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health

conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Knee lifts: Lift leg with knees bent while contracting your thigh muscles. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.

Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Then lift heels high, keeping the balls of your feet on the floor. Continue cycle in 30-second intervals.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

OTHER TIPS FOR A COMFORTABLE FLIGHT

• For your own comfort try and travel light.

• Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

• Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

• Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.

• Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

• Avoid heavy meals during the flight.

• Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.

• Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

• On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

• On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Air Seychelles disclaim any responsibility in the unlikely event that you may suffer an injury as a direct result of these gently exercises.

E n g l i s h - C r e o l e

Hello BonzourHow are you? Konman Sava?I am well Byen MersiThank you MersiVery much Mersi bokouGoodbye orevwarHotel LotelRoom LasanmBed LiliFood ManzeCoffee KafeBeer LabyerCold FreHot SoTea DiteMeat LavyanFish PwasonBread DipenButter DiberSugar DisikSalt DiselBad Pa bonToday OzordiTomorrow DemenNow KonmelaQuickly VitmanSlowly DousmanHospital LopitalPolice GardMr. MsyeMrs. MadanmMiss. Manmzel I Mon

You OuHe, She LiWe NouThey ZotWhat? Kwa? /Ki?Who? Ki? /Lekel?Where? Kote?When? Kan?How? Ki mannyer?Why? Akoz?Which? Lekel?Yes WiNo NonTo eat ManzeTo drink BwarTo sleep DormirTo bathe Bennyen/NazeTo come ViniTo go AleTo stop AreteTo buy AsteTo sell VannStreet/road Lari/SemenAirport ErportShop LaboutikMoney LarzanCent SouOne Enn Two DeThree TrwaFour Kat Five SenkSix Sis

Seven SetEight WitNine NefTen DisEleven OnzTwelve DouzThirteen TrezFourteen KatorzFifteen KenzSixteen SezSeventeen DisetEighteen DizwitNineteen DiznefTwenty VenTwenty-one VenteenTwenty-two VenndeTwenty-three VenntwaTwenty-four VennkatTwenty-five VennsenkThirty TrantForty KarantFifty SenkantSixty SwasantSeventy SwasanndisEighty KatrevenNinety KatrevendisOne hundred SanWhere is the hotel? Kote lotel i ete silvouple?Good morning BonzourGood afternoon BonnapremidiGood evening BonswarPlease come in Antre silvouplePlease sit down Asize silvouple

You’re welcome Pa dekwaWhere do you come from Kote ou sorti?I come from....... Mon sorti......What is your name? Ki mannyer ou apele?My name is.... Mon apel.....Can you speak Kreol? Ou kabab koz Kreol?Only a little Zis en peI would like to learn more Mon oule apran ankorHow do you find Seychelles? Ki mannyer ou war Sesel?I like it here Mon kontan isi SeselThe weather is hot, isn’t it? Letan i so, wi?Where are you going? Kote ou pe ale?I am going to... Mon pe al......Please stop here Aret isi silvoupleHow much? Konbyen?Wait a minute Esper mwan en pti momanI have to get change Fodre mon ganny larzan sanzeExcuse me EkskizeWhere is the toilet? Kote kabinen i ete sivouple?In the back Deryer lakourWhere may I get a drink? Kote mon kapab ganny en keksoz pou bwar?

How much does this cost? Konbyen i vann?That’s quite expensive I ase serHelp! Ed mwan! / O Sekour!No, thanks Non, mersiPlease SilvoupleYou’re welcome Pa-de-kwaNo problem Napa problenmOk okeThat’s right! Wi i bien!A little bit Piti pitiIs everything ok? Tou keksoz i oke?Not now Pa kounye-aAttention/watch out! Atansyon!We are looking for... Nou pe rodI’m very thirsty Mon swaf I am hungry Mon lafenWhere are we? Kote nou ete?How old are you? Ki laz ou anan?What do you need? Ki ou bezwen?What do they call that in Creole? Koman zot dir sa an Kreol?How do they say... in creole? Koman zot dir an Kreol ?

NOTE: Graphics representation only. Not to scale. The actual flight paths may vary.

I n t e r n a t i o n a l Ro u t e M a p

The B767's refined design gives maximum fuel performance, operation flexibility, low noise levels and advanced control systems using digital electronics.

The B767's two-aisle passenger cabin follows the tradition for spaciousness set by the Boeing 767, first of the wide-body airliners. Pearl-class passengers are seated six abreast (two-two-two) and economy-class passengers seven abreast (two-three-two).

BOEING 767-300 ERAircraft: 3 • Seat Capacity: Pearl Class: 24 Economy Class: 215; Total 239Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 184,612 kgsCruising Speed: Up to 540 mph (870 kph) at 35,000 ft

F l e e t

Length: 180ft 3in (54.94 m) Width: 156ft 4in (47.65 m)Fuel Capacity: 73,500 kgsRange: 5600 nautical miles (10,371 km)Engines: General Electric CF6-80C2B6FSea Level Thrust: 60,800 lbs (27,511 kgs)

AIR SEYCHELLES LTD (Head Office) • PO Box 386, Mahé, Seychelles • Telephone: (248) 4391000 Fax: (248) 4224305 • E-mail: [email protected] • www.airseychelles.com

SHORTS 360-300Aircraft: 1 • Seat Capacity: Total 36Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 12,292 kgsRange: 630 nautical miles (1,165.5 km)Engines: Pratt and Witney PT 6A-67RSea Level Thrust: SHP 1281

DHC-6 (TWIN OTTER)Aircraft: 4 • Seat Capacity: Total 20Max. Gross Weight: Take Off, 5,669 kgs;Range: 490 nautical miles ( 907.5 km) Engines: Pratt and Witney PT 6A-27Sea Level Thrust: SHP 680

D o m e s t i c Ro u t e N e t w o r k

O n l i n e O f f i c e s

Wo r l d w i d e O f f i c e s

France

UnitedKingdom

South Africa

Mauritius

Capital: ParisLanguage: FrenchCurrency: EuroArea: 543,965 km2

Population: 59,304,000Air Seychelles destination: Paris

Air Seychelles Ltd11 Rue Du Colisee75008 ParisTel: (0033-1) 42 89 86 83Fax: (0033-1) 45 63 85 12Sita: partohmE-mail: [email protected]

Capital: Port LouisLanguages: French, English, CreoleCurrency: RupeesArea: 2,040 km2

Population: 1,243,000Air Seychelles destination: Plaisance Airport

Rogers & Company LtdRogers House5, President John Kennedy StreetPO Box 60, Port LouisTel: (00230) 202 6671Fax: (00230) 208 3540Sita: mrurrhmE-mail: [email protected]

Capital: PretoriaLanguages: English, AfrikaansCurrency: RandArea: 1,221,037 km2

Population: 45,919,000Air Seychelles destination: Johannesburg

Lu Dowell RepresentationsGreenstone Hill Office ParkEmerald Boulevard, Building 1, Unit F4.Modderfontein, EdenvaleSouth AfricaTel: (0027-11)-452-0244Fax: 0866578741 or (0027-11) 781-2144E-mail: [email protected]

Capital: LondonLanguage: EnglishCurrency: Pound SterlingArea: 244,880 km2

Population: 59,040,000Air Seychelles destination: Heathrow

AviarepsAviareps HouseGatwick Road, Crawley,West Sussex, RH10 9RBTel: (0044-1293) 596 656Fax: (0044-1293) 596 658Sita: lonsmhmE-mail: [email protected]

THE CREOLE SPIRITPO Box 386Victoria, MahéTel: (00248) 439 10 00Fax: (00248) 439 10 05 (Head Office)Fax: (00248) 432 41 94 (Marketing & Sales)Email: [email protected]: (00248) 422 59 33 (Sales & Reservations)Email: [email protected]

ABU DHABIOmeir Travel Agency, Shk. Khalifa StreetPO Box 267, Abu DhabiTel: (00971 2) 612 3470Fax: (00971 2) 622 6799Email: [email protected]

BALTIC COUNTRIESKatusepapi Street 6, Tallinn 11412, EstoniaTel: (00372) 6681 009Fax: (00372) 6228 115Email: [email protected]

CHINABeijing Jinzhihong Aviation Services Co.LtdH.J.J.H Group, 1/F Qinglan Plaza, No. 24Dongsi Shitiao, Beijing PRC 100007Email: [email protected]: (00 8610) 840 18745/51296988 ext 559Fax: (00 8610) 640 22093

MELBOURNESky Air Services, Level 7, 24 Albert Road, South Melbourne 3205Tel: (0061 3) 9699 9355Fax: (0061 3) 9699 9388Email: [email protected]

AUSTRIAAviareps, Airline Management Service GmbhArgentinierstrasse 2/4A - 1040,Vienna, AustriaTel: (0043 1) 585 3631 55Fax: (0043 1) 585 3630 88Email: [email protected]@airseychelles.com

BAHRAINYusuf Bin Ahmed Kanoo W11Al Khalifa Road, Building 302Block 304PO Box 45, ManamaTel: (00973) 17 220 800Fax: (00973) 17 213 458Email: [email protected]

BELGIUM/LUXEMBOURGKales Airline ServicesPark Hill, Mommaertslaan 18AB –1831, Diegem, BrusselsTel: (0032 2) 716 00 64Fax: (0032 2) 716 00 86Email: [email protected]

CZECH REPUBLICAviareps Czech RepublicNa Rybnícku 5/1329, 120 00 Praha 2, Tel: (00 420) 296 368 273Fax: (00 420) 224 233 412Email: [email protected]

CHENNAIChennai Global Aviation Services Pvt Ltd733, Anna Salai, Chennai 600006Tel: +91 44 4295 9600, 4203 6220Tel: +91 44 4295 9696 extn: 632Fax: +91 44 [email protected] [email protected]

COMORES Ario Ltd, Route magoudjouBp 1285, MoroniTel: (00269) 733 144Tel: (00269) 733 820- airportTel: (00269) 732 388- reservationsFax: (00269) 730 719Email: [email protected]: [email protected]

DUBAIAsian Air Travel and Tours AgencyPO Box 65006, DubaiTel: (00971 4) 286 8008Fax: (00971 4) 283 2115Email: [email protected]

Wo r l d w i d e O f f i c e sWo r l d w i d e O f f i c e s

UnitedKingdom

DENMARKDiscover the world MarketingTrommesalen 5, DK – 1614 Copenhangen VTel: (0045) 33252588Fax: (0045) 33252586Email: [email protected]@dtwm.dk

FINLANDYellow Sky LtdKauppakaarre 1 (4th floor)Fin-00700 Helsinki, FinlandTel: (00358 9) 6122 0240Fax: (00358 9) 6122 0255Email: [email protected]

GERMANYAviareps Airline Management Group AGJosephspitalstrasse 1580331 MunichTel: (0049 89) 552 53338Fax: (0049 89) 545 06855Email: [email protected]

GREECEIntermodal Air25 Filellinon Str, 105 57 AthensTel: (0030 1) 371 6357/3249300Fax: (0030 1) 324 9152Sita: athgdcoEmail: [email protected]

HUNGARYAviareps Magyarorszag KftCapital Square/First Clients OfficesVaci ut 76, 1133 Budapest, HungaryTel: (0036 1) 4113880Fax: (0036 1) 411 3881Email: [email protected]

HONG KONGIncola Air Services Ltd.Suite A,6/F, Wah Kit Comm. Centre300-302 Des Voeux Road CentralTel: (00852) 2866 8826/36Fax: (00852) 2527 7837Email: [email protected]

INDONESIAAviation Services co. LtdMenara bdn, 9th floor, Jl.Mh thamrin no.5Jakarta 10340Tel: (0062 11) 392 9949Fax: (0062 11) 392 9948Email: [email protected]

INDIAGlobal Air Transport Services Pvt. Ltd.N.K.M.International House,6th Floor, 178Backbay Reclamation,B.M.Chinai Marg,Mumbai -400 020 (India) Tel : (+91 022) 22829000/66205600 Fax: (+91 022) 22829004/66205656Email: [email protected]: [email protected]

Reservations and TicketingTel: (+91 022) 6621 3807 / 3811Fax: (+91 022) 6621 3818Email: [email protected]

Ahmedabad: Tel: 079 - 4021 6599Email: [email protected]

Bangalore: Tel: (080) 22275091/22275416Email: [email protected]

Kolkata(Calcutta) Tel: (033) 22806336 /22872550Email: [email protected]

Delhi Tel: (011) 23737471/3Email: [email protected]

Hyderabad Tel: (040) 66613450 / 23241586Email [email protected]

IRELAND Aviareps plcCommercial Office, 11 The Anchorage, Charlotte Quay, Dublin 4, IrelandTel: (00353 1) 6319604Fax: (00353 1) 6674228Email: [email protected]

ISRAELOpen Sky Limited23 Ben Yehuda Street, Tel Aviv 63805Tel: (00972 3) 795 1333Fax: (00972 3) 795 1330Email: [email protected]

ITALY (NORTH)Sima InternationalVia Albricci, 8, 20122 Milano (Mi)Tel: (0039 02) 89096106Fax: (0039 02) 316180Email: [email protected]

JAPANAir Solution Service Ltd2F, Hashimoto Bldg., Shiba 5-16-1, Minato-ku,Tokyo 108-0014, JapanEmail: [email protected] Tel: (0081 3) 5765 5392Fax: (0081 3) 5765 5351

KENYASafari Travel Kenya Ltd2nd Avenue, ParklandsPO Box 58716-00200 GPOTel: (254 20) 3747276, 3521872Fax: (254 20) 3747286Email: [email protected]

KOREAPacific Air Agency Group, 12th FloorDonghwa Building 58-7, Seosomun DongChoong-Ku, Seoul 100-110, KoreaPacific Air Agency Ltd.Tel : (0082 2) 317 8710Fax: (0082 2) 755 9758 E-mail : [email protected]

KUWAITPan Arab Travels CoPO Box 2842, Safat Pc 13029Tel: (00965) 241 5554/ 241 5556Fax: (00965) 241 0873Email: [email protected]

MALYSIAAviation Services co. LtdCp12, suite 1302, 13th Floor, Central Plaza,34 jalan sultan ismail,50250 Kuala Lumpur,Tel: (0060 3) 2143 3755Fax: (0060 3) 2148 8499Email: [email protected]

MALDIVESUniversal Travel Department39 Orchid Magu, Malé 20-02Republic of MaldivesTel: (00 960) 3334 004/3314910Fax: (00 960) 3316 156Email: [email protected]

MAYOTTEAir Moyotte21 place MAriage, 97600 Momoudzou, Tel: (00 269) 623 100Fax: (00 269) 623 118Email: [email protected]

NETHERLANDSKales Airlines Services B.VBuilding:Triport 1, E. V.d Beekstraat 461118 CL Schiphol AirportTel: (0031 20) 655 3670Fax: (0031 20) 655 3651Email: [email protected]@[email protected]

OMANUnited Travels LlcPO Box 599, Muttrah Postal Code 114Sultanate of OmanTel: (00968) 247 80057/61Fax: (00968) 247 80094Email: [email protected]

PAKISTANSeypak Aviation (Pvt) Ltd4 J.C.H.S. Main Sharea FaisalKarachi 75350Tel: (0092 21) 454 5912/ 4536348/ 4543044Fax: (0092 21) 454 5905Email: [email protected]

PHILIPPINESMC Travel Corporation, UGL-A Grand Hamptons Tower31st Street corner 2nd Avenue Bonifacio Global City Taguig City, Metro Manila Philippines 1630Tel: (0063 2) 856-2336Tel: (0063 2) 856-2808Email: [email protected]

POLANDUI. Sienna 72, Apt. 300-833 Warszawa, PolandTel: (0048 22) 6323205Fax: (0048 22) 6324046Email: [email protected]

QATARQatar ToursPO Box 1683, DohaTel: (00974) 441 1414/443 6002/441 9753Fax: (00974) 4433 197, 4351926Email: [email protected]

REUNIONAir France7 Avenue De La Victoire, BP 845F-97477 Saint Denis CedexTel: (00262) 262 40 38 38Fax: (00262) 262 40 38 40Email: [email protected]

ROMANIAAviareps Magyarorszag KftCapital Square/First Clients OfficesVaci ut 76, 1133 Budapest, HungaryTel: (0036 1) 411 3880Fax: (0036 1) 411 [email protected]

RUSSIA Aviareps, Moscow, Prospect Mira, 39 BLDG 2129110 MoscowTel: (007 495) 937 5950Fax: (007 495) 937 5951Email: [email protected]

SAUDI ARABIAYusuf Bin Ahmed KanooPO Box 37, Dammam 31411Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

EASTERN PROVINCEAir Seychelles, Airline CenterPO Box 1878Al Khobar 31952, Saudi ArabiaTel: (00966 3) 8355832Fax: (00966 3) 835573Email: [email protected]

CENTRAL PROVINCEAir SeychellesKanoo Building, One Block off KingAbdul Aiz Road, PO Box 753Riyadh 11421, Saudi ArabiaTel: (009661) 4772228 Ext 288/305Fax: (009661) 2833041Email: [email protected]

WESTERN PROVINCEAir SeychellesKanoo Center, Kilo ‘7’ Madinah RoadPO Box 812, Jeddah 21421, Saudi ArabiaTel: (009662) 2632959 Ext 121/108Fax: (009662) 2632948Email: [email protected]

SWEDENRiddargatan 17, 114 57 Stockholm, SwedenTel Direct: (0046 8) 545 259 42Fax: (0046 8) 241 888Email: [email protected]

THAILANDTT Aviation Co. Ltd, 140/19 ITF tower, 11th floorSilom Road, SuriyawongseBangrak, Bangkok 10500Tel: (00662) 235 8282Fax: (00662) 231 6488Email: [email protected]

TAIWANAviation Travel Services Co Ltd10F, No. 19, Sec 3 Nan Jing E. RoadTaipei , Taiwan R.O.C.Tel: +886- 2 2567 8956Fax: +886- 2 2563 7596General email: [email protected]: [email protected]

DENMARKTarget Marketing of ScandinaviaVesterbrogade 6 D, ISAL - DK1620Kobenhann V, DenmarkTel: (0045) 33 12 60 55Fax: (0045) 33 93 05 09Email: [email protected] Sky TMSKauppakaarre 1, 4th Floor, FIN-00700Helsinki, FinlandTel: (00358 9) 6122 0217Fax: (00358 9) 6122 0255Email: [email protected]

NORWAYFlyservice TMSFr. Nansens Pl 8, 0160 OSLOTel: (0047 24) 14 8754Fax: (0047 24) 14 8751Email: [email protected]

SPAINAir Marketing Representatives S.A.-AMRC/Monte Esquinza, 30, Oficina 528010 MadridTel: (0034) 91 319 5189Fax: (0034) 91 310 5098Email: [email protected]

SRI LANKANorth South Lines Pvt Ltd400 Deans Road, Colombo 10, Sri LankaTel: (0094 11) 4740760Fax: (0094 11) 4740765Email: [email protected]

SWITZERLANDAirPass Services Switzerland Schaffhauserstrasse 115 Airport City, CH-8302 Kloten Tel: (0041 44) 220 19 00 Fax: (0041 44) 220 19 15 Dedicated phone number for Air Seychelles: Tel: (0041 44) 220 19 20 Fax: (0041 44) 220 19 15

UKRAINEAviareps AG9/2, Chervonoarmijska str of 4001004 KievTel: (0038 44) 490 65 02Email: [email protected]

USA AND CANADAI Penn PlazaSuite 1416, New York, NY 10119United States Tel: (001 646) 8773597392Email: [email protected]

VIETNAMWorldwide Agency127-129 Nguyen Hue Street, District1 1HoChiMinh City, VietnamTel: (0084) 3915 2264Fax: (0084) 3915 2265Email: [email protected]

LanguageCreole, English and French are the official languages of the Seychelles.

TippingRestaurant bills normally include a service charge. Although not widely expected, tips are warmly received for personal service.

ClothesVery casual. For men, shorts and T-shirts during the day, and slacks for evening. Jackets and ties are rarely worn. For women, cotton wrap-arounds or shorts for daytime, cool dresses for evening wear.

Transport:An efficient bus service operates on Mahé, Praslin and La Digue between 0530-1900. Taxis are available and cars can also be hired on Mahé and Praslin and bicycles on La Digue. A valid international license is required for self-driving. Air Seychelles operates flights between Mahé and Praslin throughout the day. Charter flights are also operated to other islands. An inter-island ferry service operates daily between the islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. L’Air Dezil operates a shuttle service between Mahé, Praslin and La Digue and other islands.

Customs Duty Free items are permitted for up to:- 200 millilitres of Perfume and Eau de Toilette.- 2 litres of beverages with less than 16% alcohol i.e beer, wine.- 2 litres of beverages with more than 16% alcohol i.e whisky, gin, rum etc.- 250 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes.- Personal goods worth SCR 5000 for adults and SCR 3000 for under 18 years.For more information visit www.src.gov.sc

AccommodationSeychelles offers a variety of accommodation, from international resorts and medium-sized hotels with all facilities to guest houses, lodges and chalets on the smaller islands. Camping is not allowed.

Sports and WatersportsMany hotels have excellent facilities for watersports centres offering a wide range of activities. Some also have dive centres and tennis courts. There is an 18-hole golf course at Lemuria Resort on Praslin and Seychelles Golf Course, a 9-hole golf course at Anse aux Pins, Mahé.

Museums and LibrariesThe History Museum is situated on Francis Rachel Street, Victoria in the National Library Building. The Natural History Museum is situated on Independence Avenue, Victoria near to the Post Office. Kenwyn House directly opposite the main entrance to the National Library on Francis Rachel Street is one of the best preserved 19th century buildings of Victoria, renovated in 2005.

ShoppingLocal handicrafts include basketware, table-mats, hats, jewellery and paintings. Shops are open from 0800-1700 hours Monday-Friday and 0800-1200 hours Saturday. Some open Sunday morning.

RestaurantsA range of cuisine is also available, from traditional Creole and French cuisine to Chinese. In addition to hotels and restaurants, several take-away outlets can be found in Victoria.

NightlifeMost hotels offer programmes for evening entertainment ranging from barbecues and dinner dances to folk singing. There are two cinemas in Victoria. Theatrical productions are sometimes staged in Creole, English and French.

CurrencyThe Seychelles Rupee (SCR1 = 100 cents). Notes SCR 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500. Coins SCR 1, 5 and Cents 1, 5, 10, 25. Most credit cards and travellers’ cheques are accepted. There is no restriction on the import and export of domestic and foreign currency in the country. Banks and Bureaux de Change are authorised dealers in foreign currency. For rates of exchange contact authorised dealers for which information can be otained on Central Bank’s website at www.cbs.sc

Credit CardsAmerican Express, Mastercard, Diners Club and Visa cards are widely accepted.

TimeSeychelles is four hours ahead of GMT and three hours ahead of Central European Time.

Public HolidaysNew Year January 1-2Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday April 6, 8 & 9Labour Day May 1Liberation Day June 5Corpus Christi June 07National Day June 18Independence Day June 29Assumption Day, (festival on La Digue) August 15All Saints Day November 1Immaculate Conception December 8Christmas December 25

Climate26°-29° C all year round. Annual rainfall totals approximately 90 inches, with heavy showers between November and February. As the Islands lie beyond the cyclone belt, high winds and thunderstorms are rare.

Electricity 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Adaptors are provided by hotels.

Tourist InformationThe Seychelles Tourist Office is located in Independence House, Victoria, Mahé.

Emergency ServicesThe Emergency number for fire, police or ambulance is 999. Victoria Hospital: 4388000.

Medical ServicesVictoria has a large and efficient hospital and most islands have health clinics. Some hotels provide duty nurses. Private doctors are available on call at all hotels – contact reception.

Post OfficeThe central office in Victoria is open from 0800-1600 Monday-Friday and 0800-1200 Saturday.

TelecommunicationsCable & Wireless Seychelles (CWS), the islands leading communications provider, is the operator of choice across mobile (3G+), broadband and fixed services. As a subsidiary of Cable & Wireless Communications PLC (listed on the LSE), the company delivers first rate business and consumer solutions including turnkey solutions for major international investors. CWS’ mission is “To provide world class communication services and solutions wherever and whenever people work, play and have fun”. No one knows Seychelles better.

Telecom (Sey) Ltd, AIRTEL. Provider of Mobile GSM Telecom Services with 3G & Edge Network, Mobile broadband Data Services for High Speed Internet Access. Roaming with over 200 operators worldwide. Prepaid starter kits & recharge options available at Airtel Centres in Victoria, Providence, Praslin & selected retail outlets on main islands. Coverage on Mahè, Praslin, La Digue, Inner Islands, Fregate & Coetivy.

Tra v e l Fa c t s

DeviseUne roupie seychelloise = 100 sous. Il existe des billets de 10, 25, 50 , 100 et 500. Il existe de la monnaie à 1 et 5 roupies, 1, 5, 10 et 25 sous. La majorité des cartes de crédit et des chèques de voyage sont acceptés. Il n’y a pas de restriction sur l’importation et l’exportation de devises étrangères et locales dans le pays. Les banques et les bureaux de change sont autorisés pour toutes les transactions en devises étrangères. En ce qui concerne les taux d’échange, prenez contact avec les courtiers autorisés qui obtiennent leurs informations de la Banque Centrale ; site web : www.cbs.sc

Cartes de créditLes cartes American Express, Mastercard, Diners Club et Visa sont généralement acceptées.

Décalage horaireLes Seychelles ont trois heures d’avance sur Paris.

Jours fériés Nouvel An 1 et 2 janvierVendredi saint, Dimanche de Pâques 6, 8 & 9 avrilFête du travail 1 maiJour de la Libération 5 juinFête Dieu 7 juinFête Nationale 18 juinFête de l’Indépendance 29 juinFête de l’Assomption (La Digue) 15 aoûtToussaint 1 novembreImmaculée Conception 8 décembreNoël 25 décembre

ClimatEntre 26 et 29 degrés Celcius, tout au long de l’année. Saison des pluies entre novembre et février (env. 200mm de précipitation). Les Seychelles étant hors de la zone des cyclones, les tempêtes sont rares.

ElectricitéCourant alternatif 240 volts. Les hôtels mettent des adaptateurs à disposition.

Information TouristiqueL’office du tourisme est situé à L’Independence House à Mahé.

UrgencesPour toutes urgences (ambulance, police, pompiers), il faut composer le 999. Victoria Hôpital: 4388000.

Services médicauxVictoria est dotée d’un hôpital tandis que la plupart des îles possèdent une clinique. Certains grands hôtels ont un service d’infirmerie.

Bureau de posteLes heures d’ouverture du bureau de poste à Victoria sont: de 8:00h à 16:00h, du lundi au vendredi et de 8:00h à 12:00h le samedi.

TélécommunicationsCable & Wireless Seychelles (CWS), le principal opérateur de télécommunications de l’archipel, propose des services de téléphonie fixe, mobile (3G+) et internet (ADSL). En tant que filiale du Groupe Cable & Wireless Communications PLC (coté à la bourse de Londres), la société offre des prestations innovantes pour les entreprises et les particuliers, ainsi que des solutions intégrées pour les grands comptes internationaux. Notre mission est “de fournir des solutions et services parmi les meilleurs au monde, partout et pour chaque instant de la vie”. Personne ne connaît mieux les Seychelles que nous.

Telecom (Sey) Ltd, Airtel propose des Réseaux GSM, 3G, et Edge avec couverture intérieure/extérieur dans les îles de Mahè, Praslin, La Digue, Frégate et Coetivy. Des cartes de téléphone cellulaires sont disponibles dans les bureaux d’Airtel et des locaux spécifiques. L’accès au réseau ‘roaming‘ avec plus de 200 opérateurs internationales.

I n fo r m a t i o n s U t i l e s

LanguesLe créole, l’anglais et le français sont les langues officielles des Seychelles.

PourboiresLe service est compris dans la plupart des restaurants. Bien qu’ils ne soient pas obligatoires, les pourboires sont toujours reçus avec un grand sourire.

Tenue vestimentaireDécontractée. Pour les hommes le port du short et du T-shirt la journée et du pantalon le soir. Pour les dames le port du short ou d’une jupe en coton la journée et robe légère le soir.

Transport :Un service de bus efficace fonctionne sur Mahé, Praslin et La Digue entre 5h.30 et 19 heures. Des taxis et des voitures en location sont aussi disponibles sur Mahé et sur Praslin et des bicyclettes peuvent être louées sur La Digue.Un permis valable de conduite international est exigé en cas de location de voiture sans chauffeur.

Air Seychelles fournit des vols entre Mahé et Praslin durant la journée. Des vols charter sont aussi organisés vers les autres îles. Un service de ferry inter-îles fonctionne aussi entre les îles de Mahé, Praslin et La Digue. L’ »Air Dezil » propose aussi une navette entre Mahé, Praslin, La Digue et d’autres îles.

Les produits hors-taxe sont limités à :- 200 ml de parfum et eau de toilette- 2 litres de boisson contenant moins de 16% d’alcool, par ex. la bière, le vin. - 2 litres de boisson contenant plus de 16% d’alcool, par ex. le whisky, le gin, le rhum etc.- 250 grammes de tabac ou 200 cigarettes.- des biens personnels pour une valeur de 5.000 Rs par adulte et de 3.000 Rs pour les jeunes de moins de 18 ans. Pour plus d’informations, visitez notre site: www.src.gov.sc

HébergementLes Seychelles disposent d’une grande diversité d’hébergement – allant des hôtels de grande, moyenne et petite capacité aux “lodges”, chalets et bungalows sur les plus petites îles.

Sports et sports nautiquesBeaucoup d’hôtels ont d’excellents centres de sports nautiques offrant une large gamme d’activités. Certains ont également des clubs de plongée et des courts de tennis. Il y a un golf de18 trous à l’hôtel Lémuria à Praslin, et le Seychelles Golf Course, un neuf trous à Anse aux Pins, à Mahé.

Museums et librairiesLe Musée d’Histoire est situé dans la rue Francis Rachel, à Victoria, dans le bâtiment de la Bibliothèque Nationale. Le Museum d’Histoire Naturelle est situé dans la rue de l’indépendance, à Victoria, près du bureau de Poste. Kenwyn House, en face de l’entrée principale de la Bibliothèque Nationale dans la rue Francis Rachel, est l’un des bâtiments du 19ème siècle les mieux préservés à Victoria. Il fut rénové en 2005.

ShoppingL’artisanat local offre des travaux en fibre (chapeaux, paniers etc.) en coquillages, en nacre ou encore en or (bijoux et objets décoratifs) ainsi que des œuvres d’artistes locaux. Les heures d’ouverture des magasins sont de 8:00h à 17:00h du lundi au vendredi et de 8:00h à 12:00h le samedi. Certains commerces restent ouverts le dimanche matin.

Restaurants Les Seychelles offrent une cuisine variée: créole et internationale. En dehors des établissements hôteliers et des restaurants, des services traiteurs sont à votre disposition à Mahé (Victoria) ainsi qu’à Praslin.

Vie nocturne La plupart des hôtels organisent des spectacles nocturnes: danses traditionnelles, dîners dansant ou barbecues sur la plage. Il y a deux cinémas à Victoria. Régulièrement, des pièces de théâtre en français, en anglais et en créole sont à l’affiche. Il existe aussi des boîtes de nuit à Victoria et Beau Vallon ainsi qu’à Praslin.

RESTAURANTS – MAHÉA LA CARTEAl Mare Restaurant Beau Vallon Tel: +248 462 02 40 / 251 21 17 / 251 21 13 Fax: +248 462 02 42 E-mail: [email protected]

CREOLEAnse Soleil Cafe Anse Soleil, Mahé Tel: +248 436 10 85 / 436 17 00 / 251 12 12

Boat House Address: Beau Vallon Mahé Tel: +248 424 78 98 E-mail: [email protected]

Cap Lazare Tel: +248 428 01 00 / 252 46 42 Fax: +248 422 58 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Chez Batista Restaurant Takamaka, Mahé Tel: +248 436 63 00 Fax: +248 436 65 09 E-mail: [email protected]

Domaine Du Soleil Restaurant Tel: +248 428 55 55 Fax: +248 424 72 24 E-mail: [email protected]

Katiolo Anse Faure Tel: +248 4375 453

Le Marinier Restaurant Inter Island Quay Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 422 49 37

Le Reduit Restaurant Tel: +248 436 61 16 / 436 62 25 E-mail: [email protected]

Marie Antoinette Restaurant Serret Road St Louis Tel: +248 426 62 22

News Cafe 1st floor, Trinity House Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 432 29 99

INTERNATIONALDoubleclick Seychelles Maison La-Rosiere Palm Street Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 461 05 90 Fax: +248 461 05 91 E-mail: [email protected]

Helios RestaurantConstance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 4395 [email protected]

Konoba Restaurant Bar LaungeAngel Fish Bayside MarinaTel: +248 4345 [email protected]

La Scala Restaurant PO Box 962 Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 424 75 35 Fax: +248 424 79 02 E-mail: [email protected]

The Sea Shell Port LaunayTel: +248 4324026/2523968

Uncle Will’s Pizzeria Coco D’Or Hotel Tel: +248 424 73 31 Fax: +248 424 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Restaurant 8 LoungeGlacis exvista do mar, MahèMobile: 2746808

CHINESELe Canton Chinese Restaurant Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino Tel: +248 428 72 87 Fax: +248 424 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

ZezFour Seasons Resort Tel: +248 4393 000 ext. 1902E-mail: [email protected]

GOURMETCyann “Signature Cousine” Constance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 4395 001

Maia Restaurant Luxury Resort SpaTel: +248 4390 000E-mail: [email protected]

Chilli Bar & Steakhouse La LouiseTel: +248 4344 155

INDIANMahék Indian Restaurant Coral Strand Hotel Tel: +248 462 10 00 Fax: +248 424 75 17 E-mail: [email protected]

LEBANESE & PIZZERIASahara Pub and Restuarant Bel Ombre Tel: +248 2527 000

PIZZADocklands Pizzeria New Port -Victoria Tel: +248 4610 888

SOUTH ASIANKannel Four Seasons Resort Tel: +248 4393 000 ext. 1902E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/JAPANESETeppanyaki Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino Tel: +248 428 72 87 Fax: +248 424 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEAnchor Cafe Anse a la Mouche, Mahé Tel: +248 437 12 89 Fax: +248 437 17 53 E-mail: [email protected]

Au Jardin D’Epices Banyan Tree Seychelles Tel: +248 438 35 00 Fax: +248 438 36 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Aubergine Restaurant The Wharf Hotel & Marina Providence, Mahé Tel: +248 467 07 00 Fax: +248 460 17 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Baobab Pizzeria Restaurant Beau Vallon, Mahé Tel: +248 424 71 67 / 258 38 68

Beach Side Bistro Coral Strand Hotel PO Tel: +248 462 10 00 Fax: +248 424 75 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Bel Air Restaurant Hotel Bel Air Bel Air, Mahé Tel: +248 422 44 16 Fax: +248 422 49 23 E-mail: [email protected]

Bravo Eden IslandTel: +248 4346 [email protected]

Carefree Guesthouse & Restaurant Anse Aux Pins Mahé Tel: +248 437 52 37 Fax: +248 437 56 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Chez Plume ResturantPO Box 211, Victoria, MahéTel: +248 435 50 50Fax: 248 435 50 33E-mail: [email protected]

Fairyland Restaurant Fairyland Small Hotel Pointe au Sel, MahéTel: +248 437 17 00 Fax: +248 437 16 10 E-mail: [email protected]

Green Valley Anse aux Pins Tel: +248 437 1670

The Hilltop Restaurant Hilton Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa PO Tel: +248 429 90 00 Fax: +248 429 90 03 E-mail: [email protected]

Jolie Rose 2 Restaurant Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Market Victoria, MahéTel: +248 422 54 51

Kaz Kreol Restaurant Anse Royale Mahé Tel: +248 436 16 80 E-mail: [email protected]

La Cocoteraie Restaurant Le Meridien Barbarons Hotel PO Box 636 Barbarons, Mahé Tel: +248 467 30 00 Fax: +248 467 33 80 E-mail: [email protected]

La Palma Restaurant Coco D’Or Hotel PO Tel: +248 424 73 31 Fax: +248 424 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

La Perle Noire Restaurant Beau Vallon Mahé Tel: +248 462 02 20 Fax: +248 462 02 01 [email protected]

La Voliere Mahé Beach Resort Tel: +248 438 53 85 Fax: +248 437 81 17 E-mail: [email protected]

Lazare Picault Restaurant Lazare Picault Hotel Tel: +248 436 11 11 Fax: +248 436 11 77 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Bourgeois Restaurant (Fisherman’s Cove) c/o Le Meridien Fisherman’s Cove Tel: +248 467 70 00 Fax: +248 462 09 00 / 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Cardinal Restaurant c/o Le Meridien Fisherman’s Cove Tel: +248 467 70 00 Fax: +248 462 09 00 / 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Corsaire Restaurant Address: Bel Ombre, Mahé Tel: +248 424 71 71 / 251 51 71 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Jardin du Roi Domaine de L’enfoncement Anse Royale Tel: +248 437 13 13 Fax: +248 437 13 66 E-mail: [email protected] Le Mangrovia Restaurant Le Meridien Barbarons Tel: +248 467 30 00 Fax: +248 467 33 80 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Rendez-vous Restaurant & Lounge Bar 1st Floor, Victoria House Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 432 35 56 Fax: +248 432 32 16 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Surmer Restaurant Le Surmer Hotel Pointe Conan, Mahé Tel: +248 424 18 11 Fax: +248 424 15 27 E-mail: [email protected]

Les Cocotiers Restaurant Tel: +248 429 90 00 Fax: +248 429 90 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Maia Luxury Resort & Spa Tel: +248 4390 000E-mail: [email protected]

Manresa Restaurant Manresa Small Hotel Anse Etoile PO Box 692 Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 424 13 88 Fax: +248 424 13 88

Montezuma Restaurant Mahé Beach Resort Port Glaud Mahé Tel: +248 438 53 85 Fax: +248 437 81 17 E-mail: [email protected]

The Parrot Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Beach Resort & Casino PO Box 550 Victoria MahéTel: +248 428 72 87 Fax: +248 424 79 43 E-mail: [email protected] The Board Walk Lounge & Bar Eden IslandTel: +248 443 63 03

Pirates Arms Tel: +248 422 50 01 Fax: +248 422 44 50 E-mail: [email protected]

Pizzeria Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Resort & Casino Tel: +248 28 472 87 Fax: +248 424 79 43 E-mail: [email protected]

Saffron Banyan Tree Seychelles Tel: +248 438 35 00 Fax: +248 438 36 00 E-mail: [email protected]

Sam’s Pizzeria Francis Rachel Street, Victoria, Mahé Tel: +248 432 24 99 / 32 34 95 Fax: + 248 432 43 59 E-mail: [email protected]

Seselwa Bar Constance Ephilia ResortTel: +248 4395 [email protected]

D i n i n g O u t

D i n e r a l E x t é r i e u r

Silhouette Restaurant Sunset Beach Resort PO Box 372 Glacis, Mahé Tel: +248 426 11 11 Fax: +248 426 12 21 E-mail: [email protected]

Skychef LTD Seychelles International Airport PO Box 450 Victoria Tel: +248 438 17 50 Fax: +248 437 34 56 E-mail: [email protected]

Sundown Restaurant Port Glaud, Mahé Tel: +248 437 83 52 Fax: +248 437 83 52 Takamaka Restaurant Takamaka Residence Takamaka, Mahé Tel: +248 436 60 49 Fax: +248 436 63 03 E-mail: [email protected]

Tyfoo Restaurant La Plaine St. Andre Au cap, Mahé Tel: +248 437 14 85

Vye Marmit Domaine de Val de Pres Au Cap, Mahé Tel: +248 437 61 55 / 437 61 00 Fax: +248 437 61 18 The Wok Chinese Restaurant Coco D’Or Hotel PO Box 526 Beau Vallon, Mahé Tel: +248 424 73 31 Fax: +248 424 74 54 E-mail: [email protected]

RESTAURANTS – PRASLIN CREOLECapricorn Restaurant Islanders Guesthouse Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 423 32 24 Fax: +248 423 31 54 E-mail: [email protected]

Coco Rouge Baie Ste Anne, Praslin Tel: +248 423 22 28

Le Chevalier Bay Restaurant Anse Lazio, Praslin Tel: +248 423 23 22 Fax: +248 423 23 22 E-mail: [email protected]

Les Lauriers Restaurant Les Lauriers Petit Hotel Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 423 22 41 Fax: +248 423 23 62 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEAcajou Hotel Restaurant Cote d’Or Praslin Tel: +248 423 24 00 Fax: +248 423 24 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Beach Bar and Grill Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 428 10 91 Fax: +248 428 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Beach Bar Restaurant Acajou Hotel Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 423 24 00 Fax: +248 423 24 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Black Parrot Restaurant Black Parrot Suites Anse Bois de Rose, Praslin Tel: +248 429 05 55 Fax: +248 429 04 40 E-mail: [email protected]

Bonbon Plume Anse Lazio, Praslin Tel: +248 423 21 36 Fax: +248 423 22 77

Bonm Ange Hotel L’Archipel Anse Gouvernement, Praslin Tel: +248 428 47 00, Fax: +248 423 20 72 E-mail: [email protected]

Britannia Restaurant Britannia Hotel Grand Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 423 32 15 / 423 39 15 Fax: +248 423 39 44 E-mail: [email protected]

Chateau de Feuilles Pointe Cabris, Praslin Tel: +248 429 00 00 Fax: +248 429 00 29 E-mail: [email protected]

Feuille d’Or Hotel L’Archipel Anse Gouvernement, Praslin Tel: +248 428 47 00 Fax: +248 423 20 72 E-mail: [email protected]

The Fregate Berjaya Praslin Beach Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel: +248 428 62 86, Fax: +248 423 22 44 E-mail: [email protected]

The Britania Grand AnseTel: +248 423 32 15

Hibiscus Restaurant Coco de Mer Hotel Anse Bois de Rose, Praslin Tel: +248 429 05 55 Fax: +248 429 04 40 E-mail: [email protected]

Indian Ocean Lodge Grand Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 423 33 24 / 23 34 57 Fax: +248 423 39 11 E-mail: [email protected]

The Jetty Restaurant La Reserve Hotel Anse Petite Cour, Praslin Tel: +248 429 80 00 Fax: +248 423 21 66 E-mail: [email protected]

La Goulue Cafeteria Cote d’Or, Praslin Tel: +248 423 22 23 Fax: +248 423 22 23 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Beach Restaurant Paradise Sun Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel: +248 429 32 93 Fax: +248 423 20 19 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Dauphin Hotel Le Duc de Praslin Baie Ste. Anne, Praslin Tel: +248 423 22 52 Fax: +248 423 23 55 E-mail: [email protected]

Le Kato Noir Palm Beach Hotel Grande Anse, Praslin Tel: +248 429 02 90/429 02 92 Fax: +248 423 30 90 E-mail: [email protected]

Legend Restaurant Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 428 10 88 Fax: +248 428 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Octopus Diving CenterBerjaya Praslin Beach Hotel Anse Volbert, Praslin Tel/Fax: +248 423 26 02Tel Hotel: +248 423 22 22 Mobile: +248 271 54 41 E-mail: [email protected]

Pool Deck Restaurant Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 428 10 88, Fax: +248 428 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Pool Grill Restaurant La Reserve Anse Petit Cour, Praslin Tel: +248 429 80 00 Fax: +248 423 21 66 E-mail: [email protected]

Port Side Cafe Address: Baie Ste. Anne Jetty, Praslin Tel: +248 271 28 00 / 276 64 00 Sea Horse Restaurant & Bar Lemuria Resort Anse Kerlan, Praslin Tel: +248 428 12 43, Fax: +248 428 10 01 E-mail: [email protected]

Tante Mimi Restaurant Cote d’Or, Praslin PO Box 301 Victoria Mahé Tel: +248 423 25 00 Fax: +248 423 25 03 E-mail: [email protected] Touchdown Restaurant Amitie Airport Praslin Tel: +248 423 36 55 Fax: +248 423 35 66

Village de Pecheur Praslin Tel: +248 423 20 00

RESTAURANTS LA DIGUE CREOLEBernique Anse Reunion Tel: +248 423 42 29

Patatran Restaurant Patatran Village Anse Patates, La Digue Tel: +248 429 43 00 Fax: +248 429 43 90 E-mail: [email protected]

Tournesol Tournesol Guesthouse La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 423 41 55 Fax: +248 423 43 64 E-mail: [email protected]

Villa Authentique Restaurant & Bar Villa Authentique La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 423 44 13 Fax: +248 423 44 13

Villa Mon Reve Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 423 42 18 Fax: +248 423 42 18 E-mail: [email protected]

Zerof Restaurant Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 423 44 39 Fax: +248 423 40 67

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLECafe Le Monde Grand Anse Tel: +248 274 22 65/ 278 11 21

Cafe Le Monde Baie St Anne Tel: +248 423 21 11

Chateau St Cloud La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 423 43 46, Fax: +248 423 45 45 E-mail: [email protected]

La Vanille Anse La Blague Tel: +248 423 21 78

La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion Tel: +248 429 25 25

L’Ocean Anse Patates Tel: +248 423 43 33

Pool Side Restaurant La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 429 25 25, Fax: +248 423 41 32 E-mail: [email protected]

Pecheur Restaurant La Digue Island Lodge Anse Reunion, La Digue Tel: +248 429 25 25 , Fax: +248 423 41 32 E-mail: [email protected]

Restaurant Le Dauphin C/o Le de Praslin Hotel Tel: +248 429 48 00

Restaurant Patatran Hotel L’Ocean Anse Patates, La Digue Tel: +248 423 41 80, Fax: +248 423 43 08 E-mail: [email protected] Tarosa Restaurant La Passe, La Digue Tel: +248 423 44 07 Fax: +248 423 43 44 E-mail: [email protected]

PIZZERIA/CAFE-BARGregoire’s comples Tel: +248 429 25 25

SEA FOODCafe Des Arts Cote d’Or Tel: +248 423 21 70

RESTAURANTS - OTHER ISLANDS CREOLE Jolly Roger’s Moyenne Island Tel: +248 429 70 00 Fax: +248 422 58 17 E-mail: [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL/CREOLEL’habitation Restaurant PO Box 910 Cerf Island Tel: +248 432 31 11 Fax: +248 432 13 08 E-mail: [email protected]

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