W y o m i n g : ( 3) T e t o n s . During the summer of 1950 two men

in their early twenties climbed Teewinot by the normal

route, east face. On the descent they reached the upper

snow field at 7:00 P.M., and one of them, against the pleas

of his companion, started a glissade. He could not stop

himself, lost his ice-axe, and slid into the rocks at the

bottom. With a punctured lung, broken rib, and concussion,

he continued down the mountain by himself. His companion

inched his way down and searched for him till dawn. He

was found wandering in a dazed condition near the bottom.

S o u r c e of i n f o r m a t i o n : National Park rangers.

A n a l y s i s . Here is one of those cases in which one mem­

ber of a climbing team took a careless attitude at the

expense of his companion’s safety. The companion wanted

to belay himself because he felt incompetent to negotiate

the slope alone, particularly on the snow. This type of

climber, who will take risks in spite of pleas to the

contrary, and in taking the risk thus endangers the safety

of other members of his party, must be considered as a

menace to anyone else climbing with him. Such cases re­

quire special and careful indoctrination the moment such

an attitude begins to be shown.