south of france

South of France

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I promised that 2014 would be a year of great changes and innovations at Indagare, and if you have been to our Web site recently, you

will have had a glimpse of Indagare 2.0. Seven years, almost to the day, after we

launched our Web site, we relaunched it to bet-ter reflect the company that we have become: a true hybrid that merges the best travel editorial with service, so that the same experts who give you tips on what to see and do on your travels also help you plan your trips.

We have completely updated our destina-tion reports (with even more posting soon) and will have regular news from our network of contributors. We have added a bookings engine, so if you want to read our hotel reviews and then compare member benefits (both Indagare preferred benefits and those of Amex Platinum and Centurion if you are a card member), you can do so instantly and book your selections directly online. We are always happy to have you contact our bookings team, but many of you told us that you would appreciate the conve-nience of sometimes being able to do it yourself.

on my mind

Relaunching Indagare

You can also book flights online or through our flight desk, which has great commercial prices and works with one of the top private charter brokers in the country, getting deals that have converted many of our members from NetJets and other contracts because of the incredible pricing, service and safety.

We have also enhanced our digital magazine, adding slide shows and new columns. Within the destination reports, we have created filters that enable you to search Paris restaurants by neighborhood or theme (Family-friendly or Big Night Out) and then map your choices. The mapping function also allows you to search everything from hotels to shops and restaurants by location. Looking for a boutique property in Mayfair, Chelsea or Knightsbridge? Just click the filters, and up comes Blake’s, Browns, the Pelham and more. Want to find alfresco restau-rants near the Capitoline in Rome? Click the filters, and the site suggests Aroma and Gigetto. Our mission has always been to steer you to our favorite places, but we are giving you more control over how you use our suggestions.

That is just the start. In the coming months we will continue to add features. But please give us your comments. Every review and article includes a comment space where we would love to have you give your feedback—our community remains a much more credible one than TripAdvisor. We also want you to continue to share your ideas on how we can improve the site and services to better help you with your travels.

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2 On My Mind Relaunching Indagare

4-5 Indagare.com Our New Site

6-7 First Look Impressions of Amano’i

8-11 Just Back From Mendoza

12-16 Spotlight Dazzled by Israel

17 Postcard Tasmanian Getaway

18-19 Arts/Culture The Cuban Art Scene

20-23 Food/Wine New York City Dining

24-27 Portfolio Fleeting Cultures

30-54 Destination Report South of France

AboutIndagareIndagare comes from the Latin word that means to

seek, scout, discover. Indagare Travel is a high-end travel company with robust online editorial content and a boutique in-house travel agency. We travel, we write, and we plan memorable journeys for our members. To learn about our travel community, visit www.indagare.com or call 212-988-2611. Annual membership rates begin at $325.

BookingsAt Indagare you can research ideas for a trip on

our site and consult with a specialist on the phone or by email to create, refine or expand your itinerary. Our Bookings Team can help you with something as simple as a hotel room or as complex as creating a multi-stop itinerary. We also have special rates and amenities at hundreds of properties. Call 212-988-2611 or email [email protected].

InsiderTripsInsider Trips are special journeys designed exclu-

sively for Indagare members. With their insider access, mapped-out itineraries and exciting immersion in far-flung destinations, the trips offer members a rich and rewarding way to explore the world. Upcoming destinations include India, Cuba and Myanmar. For more information, call 646-963-2242 or email [email protected].

The World of Indagare

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Indagare Plus Members who book through indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the properties with the indagare Plus symbol.

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Indagare: The Next GenerationOur Travel Team is proud to announce Indagare 2.0, with a new look, feel and functionalty. Here’s what you need to know about our updated site.

indagare.com

Book Hotels And FlightsWe are thrilled to announce that now, anyone can book a hotel or a flight online at Indagare.com. But only Indagare members can take advantage of the best rates and fantastic amenities at hundreds of hotels worldwide. When you are logged into the site as a member and book a hotel through our Book-ings Engine, you will be shown our special Indagare Plus rates, as well as American Express Platinum rates.

Best Hotel Rates As a preferred partner of Four Sea-sons among others, Indagare offers perks such as special rates, room upgrades, complimentary breakfast, dining and spa credits and other benefits at hundreds of hotels world-wide. Look for the Indagare Plus logo on the site. We are also an American Express affiliate so you can book Platinum and Centurion benefits online. As always, there are no extra, hidden fees. Indagare members get the best, available rates.

Revamped Destination GuidesOur in-depth travel guides, featuring the best of Stay, Shop, Eat and See & Do, have been fully updated and now include mapping functionality. Filter by specific neighborhoods and type of experience, including which hotels are Indagare Adored proper-ties around the world.

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Filter By Indagare FavoritesLooking for Indagare’s list of first-time must-sees in Berlin; foodie favorites in Shanghai; best shops in Siem Reap? By using Indagare’s new filter functionality, you can sort our list of recommendations, customizing itineraries for your needs.

Read More ReviewsRead Member Postcards, travel scoops and insider tips on staying, dining and shopping in Indagare’s Magazine section, featuring the best, most relevant travel recommenda-tions for researching a trip and map-ping out a great itinerary.

Digital MagazineRead Indagare’s bi-monthly Black Book, filled with travel news. The current issue is open to everyone; only logged-in members can access back issues.

Map It:In every category, you can plan your stay, dining or shopping by neighborhood with our Filters. Need a hot spot restaurant on Paris’ Left Bank, a boutique hotel in Mayfair or best shops in Buenos Aires? Add neighborhood filters to your search.

Use the new Indagare and book hotels and flights on any mobile device. Revisit indagare.com and experience the next generation of travel wisdom.

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first look

A man resorts and hotels is well known for choosing exceptional locations for its properties—in far flung, remote

landscapes (think the Amankora in Bhutan and Utah’s Amangiri). Their placement may not always make immediate sense, but upon arrival every guest is guaranteed to have an “aha moment.” Amano’i, the brand’s first foray into Vietnam, is no different. Located near the untouched Nui Chua National Park in the coun-try’s Khanh Hoa Province, the resort sits amid a rocky landscape of cliffs. The overall atmosphere of the area conveys a sense that it has remained unchanged for centuries.

Most itineraries to Vietnam will include time in one or both of the major cities, Hanoi and Saigon, as well as a few days in the central part of the country. Each of these destinations is popular with tourists, rich in history and

somewhat exhausting to navigate. The draw of the Amano’i is its remoteness, serenity and the natural beauty of its surroundings—the prop-erty sits on a hill with views of the Vinh Hy Bay and South China Sea. By the end of my ten-day visit to Vietnam, I was craving relaxation and time to reflect on all I had seen of the country. The Amano’i offered a perfect opportunity for pampering before I returned home.

Arriving guests enter the resort’s largest com-mon space, the central pavilion, which was built to resemble a traditional Vietnamese communal hall. The massive structure has ceilings that are more than 40 feet high and 360-degree views of the sea from its terraces, creating an incredible first impression of grandeur and natural beauty.

Thirty-one one-bedroom pavilions and five Aman villas fan out over the hillside. Interiors are sleek and contemporary, with nods to tradi-

Impressions of Amano’iAman Resorts recently unveiled its latest wow of a property along Vietnam’s southeastern coast. Indagare’s Alex Erdman checks into the coastal newcomer.

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tional Vietnamese architecture and the trade-mark Aman aesthetic of understated elegance. Living and sleeping spaces merge, opening onto teak decks, and are decorated in neutral tones and natural materials.

Since this is a new property, expect some un-even service. During my stay, for example, wait times for buggies to the beach were long. Much of the staff is local, which further emphasizes the property’s focus on providing guests with a great sense of place. This does, however, mean occasional language and communication dif-ficulties.

The spa has a central location and overlooks a small lake full of lotus flowers. On my first after-noon at the resort, I took a sunset yoga class and quickly sank into an Aman-appropriate medita-tive state. The extensive spa menu features treatments using local and natural ingredients.

A highlight of my visit was a traditional Viet-namese cupping massage, where suction is used on the skin to promote blood flow and healing. The massage was so relaxing that I was trans-ported into a different universe of relaxation. In addition to the spa’s five treatment rooms, there are two hydrotherapy suites, a gym, a Pilates studio and a yoga pavilion. The focal point of the property, though, is the beach club, com-plete with lap pool, beachside restaurant, access to nonmotorized water sports and unbeatable views of the bay.

Activities on the property are complemented by an array of off-property excursions available to guests. One of my favorite memories is of a visit to a floating restaurant in the Vinh Hy Bay. When I got to the restaurant, one of the owners asked what I would like for dinner. He then promptly put on a mask and dove into the water to catch a grouper in a small hand net. It was the freshest, most delicious meal I’ve ever had, complemented by the beautiful views of the hillside, the bay and beyond.

WHEn to Go Late spring and summer months are the best time to visit.

WHo sHoulD stAy Travelers looking for downtime and relaxation at the end of a trip to Southeast Asia or Vietnam. Those expecting a significant amount of culture will be rest-less here.

HoW to GEt tHERE Fly from Ho Chi Minh City to the Cam Rah/Nha Trang airport (a one-hour flight), and then drive the thirty-seven miles to the property.

REcoMMEnDED lEnGtH oF stAy Three to four days.

ExPERIEncEs not to MIss Kayaking in Vinh Hy Bay, dining at the local floating restaurants, hiking in Nui Chua National Park, a Vietnamese cupping massage, Pilates and yoga on property and snorkeling.

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Mendoza EnchantmentArgentina’s wine region of Mendoza has seen some exciting changes in the last decade. cabell Belk explores the destination and samples choice varietals.

“Don’t worry.” The figure of the rider in front of me was lost in the darkness. “The horses can see.”

Shivering deeper into the sheepskin saddle, I tried to coax my horse (and my thoughts) away from the drop-off to our

left. Invisible and yet unmistakable, it hung within a casual slip. The night was profoundly, terrifically black. The number of Malbec blends I’d tasted at last night’s wine-pairing asado gravely exceeded the number of hours I’d slept. I breathed in the weightless air and tasted smoke from the parrilla that had settled into the wool of my poncho. The heroic meal had finally come to an end only a few hours earlier, with a bowl of late summer peaches, grilled black and topped with fresh cream. As a steady clatter of hoof beats carried us higher into the Andes, I consoled myself with the promise of a late afternoon nap in the sun, one of Mendoza’s compulsory rituals.

Co-founder Angela Francine Bullock (inset);

kids in Sudan at work

I’d arrived the day before in the wake of a rare rain that had rinsed the atmosphere and left the whole valley glistening. Vineyards glowed golden green against jade foothills, and the mountainscape crumpled into violet ridges under a freshly replenished mantle of white. If not for the Andes and their melting glaciers, the Mendoza wine regions, which receive more than 300 days of sunlight each year and very little rainfall, could never have been. The 16th-century Jesuit missionaries who produced the valley’s first wines (for use during communion) contrived an elaborate system of aqueducts to irrigate their plantings with snowmelt from the mountains. In doing so, they transformed the alpine desert into an unlikely Eden, hospitable not only to grapes but also to apples, cherries, plums and peaches, large percentages of which are farmed without the use of harsh pesticides (given that there is so little moisture in the air,

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there are very few pests).As we’d driven south into the heart of wine

country, past peach orchards, walnut groves and roadside shrines to the Argentine folk saint Gauchito Gil (a 19th-century Robin Hood be-lieved to answer prayers for miracles), this year’s contestants for harvest queen beamed at us from promotional glamour shots posted along the highway. The coronation of the reina would be the culminating act of the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, Mendoza’s annual grape harvest festival, which was less than a week away. Ear-lier in the festival’s history, the candidates were not merely the province’s loveliest young women but actual cosechadoras, “reapers,” as well. Today the queen serves primarily as a cultural ambassador, but the competition continues to figure prominently in Mendoza’s popular imagination, and young Mendocinas are still told by their doting aunts and grandmothers

that one day they are sure to be chosen as reina de la Vendimia.

Almost everyone in Mendoza seems to know something about winemaking, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that the Argentine terroir, which had long yielded only cheap table wine for domestic consumption, began to attract international attention. Amid a flurry of enthu-siasm and an influx of foreign capital, pioneer winemakers began producing Mendoza’s first vinos de guarda—wines with aging potential)— at some of the highest elevations in the world.

About 100 kilometers southwest of the city, a swath of fertile uplands at the base of Mount Tupungato has emerged as the most visible the-ater of 21st-century investment and innovation. Meteorologically, the Uco Valley is character-ized by dramatic variations in temperature that serve to concentrate colors and flavors without compromising acidity; architecturally, it is distinguished by the strikingly futuristic designs of its wineries, many of which seem to vie with each other, and even with the mountains, for the spotlight.

The very latest news in the Uco Valley is the long-anticipated opening of the Vines Resort & Spa, originally conceived as a luxurious retreat for the absentee co-owners of the vineyards that surround it. The owners, currently numbering 135, fly in throughout the year to plant new varietals, participate in the harvest and develop their own blends with counsel from the resort’s resident winemaker. Mercifully, the stunning new property is open to owners and oenophiles alike, and it’s hard to imagine that there could be a more appealing place to unwind after a long morning of tastings or to recover from a six-course lunch. Its twenty-two freestanding villas are plush and contemporary, done in a quiet wood-and-stone palette that brings in-

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doors the lush colors of the western skyline vis-ible through massive floor-to-ceiling windows. Looking at the softly distressed leather sofas, draped in sumptuous textiles from the north, and the fireplace constructed with hand-cut stones found on property, you might actually find yourself rooting for the improbable rainy afternoon. Then again, I could have happily spent my entire stay on the sprawling sun-soaked deck, which was furnished with every imaginable convenience for outdoor living, not the least of which were an enormous sunset-facing tub and a fire pit, where the hotel’s parril-leros can choreograph a private asado.

The resort’s destination restaurant, Siete Fuegos, was buzzy at dinner despite the long journey necessary to reach this corner of the valley, and with good reason. It is the latest offering from Argentina’s beloved pyrophile Francis Mallmann and his most conceptual restaurant yet. The vegetables we’d eaten at the previous night’s dinner had baked all afternoon inside a wheelbarrow loaded with smolder-ing rocks, coals and embers. We’d watched, enthralled, as Mallmann’s executive chef, Diego Irrera, unearthed and unwrapped the smoking

burlap sack filled with beets, potatoes, carrots and fennel. Later he invited us to assist him in prepping salt-encrusted chicken al infiernillo (“little hell”), a Mallmann classic that involves packing an entire bird in salt and roasting it slowly on a shelf between two open log fires. Mallmann, who hails from Patagonia, has long championed the heritage cooking methods of the Andes, honed over centuries by gauchos, immigrants and the indigenous tribes who pre-ceded them. At Siete Fuegos, these principles are articulated more explicitly—and pursued more rigorously—than ever. The restaurant’s open kitchen is a kind of outdoor theater rigged with all manner of medieval-looking cast-iron vessels, where guests can watch the chefs at work by the glow of its seven namesake fires.

There is no shortage of polite tasting menus in Mendoza (many of the wineries have award-winning restaurants of their own), but the kind of frontier cooking on display here seems the truest expression of the destination’s wild, masculine heart. Other than fire itself, Diego confides, the most fundamental elements of his recipes are patience and time. If we’d had a bit more of the latter, we might have watched

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WHERE to stAy Cavas Wine Lodge, a lovely family-owned hideaway in the heart of Luján de Cuyo, or the Uco Valley’s sleek new retreat, The Vines Resort & Spa.

At the latter, twenty-two freestanding one- and two-bedroom villas on more than 1,500 planted acres, culinary program by Francis Mallmann, outdoor pool with 180-degree views of the Andes Mountains, wine-inspired spa and fitness center with vineyard views.

toP vARIEtAls: Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon

WHEn to Go: Southern Hemisphere spring, summer and fall (Octo-ber through March)

GEttInG tHERE: Flight time from Buenos Aires is just under two hours; driving time from the airport to the Vines Resort & Spa in the Uco Valley is one and a half hours.

IDEAl PAIRInG: Chilean wine country is just over the Andes; there are nonstop flights from Mendoza to Salta, in northern Argentina, and San Carlos de Bariloche, in Patagonia.

him roast a whole animal al asador (on an iron stake), a sacrament that can take fourteen hours.

Looking at the primitive asador, assembled less than a hundred yards from the postmodern fitness center, I remembered a passage from Mallmann’s Siete Fuegos cookbook: “I adore dissonance in food—two tastes fighting each other. It wakes up your palate and surprises you. . . . If you sleep in a very comfortable bed but sometimes take a siesta on the warm ground in the shade of a tree, you know that the experi-ence of the one highlights the virtues of the other.” Gradually I realized that it was precisely the close, tense coexistence of old and new, raw and refined, that had made my experience of Mendoza so vivid.

We dismounted (unscathed) on a small plateau, and for the first time all morning, I looked up. Tiny tinsel threads streaked across a richly sequined sky, the southern constella-tions entwined in a delicate, flickering brocade overhead. It seemed only natural, in a place where stone fruit ripens in mid-February, to find Orion suspended upside down, the tip of his sword pointing upward. Like so many fron-tier settlers and wayfaring gauchos before us, we passed the mate gourd around the sunrise fogón (“bonfire”). I had participated in this ceremony a handful of times and had always felt like an impostor, flubbing the handoff or feigning enjoyment, all the while wishing secretly, des-perately for an espresso. But this morning the earthy yerba (pronounced “sherba” in this part of the Latin world) responded to a deeper need than my daily caffeine fix. Soon we could see our horses silhouetted against a brightening eastern horizon, and the snowcapped volcanoes behind us caught the sun’s first rays, glaciers gleaming with lunar fluorescence.

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Dazzled by IsraelThe country packs historical fascination and religious intrigue together with a burgeoning culinary scene and a complex, cultural dynamic. Emma Pierce reports.

As I boarded my New York–bound flight in Tel Aviv, my mind was swimming. Physically and emotionally exhausted

after a two-week family trip, I found the twelve-hour overnight flight home appealing.

This was, in part, because of the huge variety of Israel’s cultural offerings, and the heavy, unavoidable emotional toll that they take on visitors. There is so much to see and do that travelers must design an itinerary tailored to their individual interests. There is an Israel for history buffs, for pilgrims and religious travel-ers, for families and for adventure-seekers—and they’re all wildly different. Even within my family, highlights varied: my dad practically sprinted up the path to the mountaintop for-tress of Masada while the rest of the family took the cable car; my sisters and I gleefully stuffed our smiling faces during a food tour of Jerusa-lem’s Old City; and my mom felt a three-hour

tour of the Holocaust museum, Yad Vashem, barely skimmed the surface, prompting a return visit the next day.

No matter their interests, visitors from all walks of life agree on one thing: Jerusalem is one of the most magical places in the world. The white-walled Old City is inspiring, complex and goose-bump-inducing all at once. It’s also profoundly heartbreaking that this inspirational place is at the epicenter of a conflict filled with so much hatred and misunderstanding. But after even a brief visit, you begin to understand why it is so fought over: it is hopeful, transport-ing and stunningly beautiful.

Even after fourteen days of immersion, absorbing the information imparted by engaged local guides, there were still aspects of Israel that confused me. For a country only slightly larger than New Jersey, Israel packs a huge punch, with diverse topography and unique cit-

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ies. Tel Aviv hits you with its beaches, nightclubs and low-key café culture. It stands in stark con-trast to more sedate Jerusalem, which is deeply engaging because of its inter-spiritual interac-tions. Two hours north of Tel Aviv is the holy region of the Galilee, and two hours south of Jerusalem, the terrain becomes arid. The Negev Desert’s stunning, moonlike landscape offers one-of-a-kind experiences—one day we hiked through a chiseled gorge, the next we embarked on a jeep tour of the geology and zoology of the region—and the Beresheet Hotel, set on the edge of a crater, makes a stylish home base.

Weeks after returning to New York, as I sort through the profound highlights of my trip to Israel, I keep coming back to Jerusalem. The city, whose charms I found spellbinding, is caught in a tug-of-war between unrelenting sides. Because of the historical and spiritual sig-nificance Jerusalem holds for many cultures, the issue of who has rightful claim to and control of the sacred land is difficult to resolve. Having no religious affiliation myself, I thought it would be hard to understand and relate to the passion so many feel for the city. But its impact is seared into my memory: the sunshine that seemed to permanently backlight the buildings in the Old City, still-warm tahini from a factory off the beaten path, and the different ways in which others react to the city, whether with happiness, sadness, fear or prayer. On my last evening in Jerusalem, taking a last bite of za’atar-dusted pita, I realized suddenly that, having just scratched the surface, I was not ready to leave—that I too had been captured.

JerusalemAfter you’ve visited Jerusalem once, you’ll be mapping out your next trip based on where to eat, what to order and how to digest as quickly as possible. In Jerusalem, three meals a day is just not enough. It is worth noting which res-taurants are kosher (meat cannot be eaten with dairy, pork and shellfish are off-limits, etc.), but unless you’re a very picky eater, adhering to Hebrew dietary regulations is easy.

EATRelaxed but Refined: MachneyudaBrilliant plating, artistic presentation and fantastic food are commonplace here, where the atmosphere is fun loving and boisterous. Dishes reveal the owner’s sense of humor with witty de-scriptions. Beit Yaakov 10; (972) 53 809 4897.

Neighborhood Place: BaroodLocated in a small courtyard at the end of an alleyway, Barood is worth seeking out for its excellent Sephardic cuisine, a fusion of modern Israeli and traditional Spanish cooking. The intimate spot serves homey cuisine, and the wel-coming atmosphere is rounded out by delicate music playing in the background. 31 Jaffa St.; (972) 2 625 9081.

Cocktails: Mamilla RooftopHead to Jerusalem’s trendy Mamilla Hotel for bird’s-eye views of the Old City and spectacular cocktails. The food is delicious as well, but with so many excellent dining options elsewhere

Read More…This report offers an excerpt of Indagare’s Israel coverage. Many more recommendations and reviews, including restaurants, shops and activities, can be found at Indagare.com. For help planning a trip, contact the Bookings Team: 212-988-2611.

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in the city, the Mamilla is best for a pre- or postdinner drink. 11 King Solomon St.; (972) 2 548 2230.

Quick Break: MarzipanMarzipan chefs can do rugelach better than anyone else. It is the place to buy the chocolate-filled pastry, as evidenced by the horde of locals filing in and out and the constant chug of the baking oven. 44 Agrippas St.; (972) 2 623 2618.

SEE & DOSteeped in history, Jerusalem can have different meanings for travelers. There are sites of incred-ible importance to the Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith, but even non-believing visitors find significance in Jerusalem’s culture and are hard pressed to resist the city’s emotional tug.

Food Tour of the Old CityWandering the streets of the Old City can be overwhelming, given the plethora of vendors all seemingly selling the same falafel, pita and baklava. With the help of a guide, navigating the madness becomes a delicious treasure hunt. Stop at a tahini factory hidden in the back of a convenience store, learn the secret to making the best pomegranate juice (only one place in

the city knows it), duck into a true hole-in-the-wall for a sweet and savory Lebanese pastry and sample a delicious pita-pizza mash up served at an unmarked storefront. This foodie tour is best to do on your first day, as you’ll want to return to many of the restaurants. Indagare members can contact our bookings team to arrange a tour.

The Old CityTraversed by chaotic, crowd-filled cobblestone streets and alleyways, alternately picturesque and powerfully smelly, the Old City is the high-light of Jerusalem. Within its honey-colored 16th-century walls are the Western Wall, the most sacred site in Judaism; the Dome of the Rock, built on the rock from which Muham-mad ascended to heaven; and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, on the site where Christ was crucified, buried and resurrected. The Old City, against epic odds, remains a one-of-kind pileup of cultures. Once you experience being moved by a place that means so much to so many, as you inevitably will, you’ll almost certainly see your own world and beliefs a little differently, long after you get back home.

Yad VashemJerusalem’s Holocaust Museum encompasses

The Masada tram; Mamilla hotel terrace

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an archive, library, school and numerous com-memorative and exhibition spaces, all of which are imbued with immense sadness but also strength. This is felt in the supremely affecting displays, the extraordinary buildings, the gener-ous scale and intelligent design of the campus’s mountaintop setting and the vision behind the entire institution. Visitors come away knowing a country’s and a people’s determination that history will forever be a lesson to all, and even if you find it challenging to enter the museum in the first place, by the end you might find it hard to leave. Har Hazikaron; (972) 2 644 3802.

The Austrian HospiceAn insider secret, the rooftop of the Austrian Hospice boasts spectacular 360-degree views of the Old City. Despite its location on a busy corner in the Muslim quarter, the hostel offers a peaceful oasis and a truly new perspective. Via Dolorosa 37; Muslim Quarter; (972) 2 626 5800.

Tel Aviv & BeyondCranes are as common as skyscrapers in this booming seaside metropolis where the Middle East meets the Mediterranean. Tel Aviv can’t, and won’t, stop growing, and the fun-loving city is a good counterbalance to Jerusalem’s weighty historical significance.

EATTel Aviv boasts the same flavorful cuisine and organic flavors as other Israeli cities, but thanks to a young cultural scene, dining out is also a lively, buzzing experience.

Big Night Out: The SalonThe Salon is somewhere between interactive performance art and a culinary tour de force by celebrity-chef Eyal Shani, who is equal parts mad scientist and gourmet wizard. The unique eatery provides an unparalleled dining experi-ence. Open Wednesday and Thursday nights,

Ten Day ItineraryDespite its small size, Israel has four vastly different areas worth visiting for the first-time tourist. To experience the country fully, Indagare recommends a ten-day itinerary that touches on the highlights of each area. Return visits are the time to revisit favorites and delve deeper into Israel’s abundant histori-cal and cultural offerings.

Days1-2:Galilee&GolanHeightsFrom Tel Aviv, first go north and inland to Galilee, a must for history buffs and religious schol-ars. According to the New Testament, many of the miracles of Jesus occurred on the banks of the Sea of Galilee, and visitors can also stop at the towns of Nazareth, Zefat and Rosh Pina. The nearby Golan Heights, with their high, open hills (some still fortified with

land mines), are worth seeing before heading south to the shores of the Sea of Galilee.

Days3-4:NegevDesertThe Negev Desert, with its vast, barren terrain, is a complete change of scenery from the rest of Israel. About two hours from both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, the Negev boasts a spectacular boutique hotel and truly transportive topography. The lunar landscape is

in stark contrast to the rest of the country and a worthwhile add-on to any Israel vacation.

Days5-7:JerusalemNow that you’ve got your bearings, geographically and historically, go south to Jerusalem for a three-day stay. Walk through the Old City at least a couple of times, visit the Mount of Olives, and plan to spend the better part of a day at Yad Vashem. For a half-day

excursion, visit the hilltop fortress of Masada, or make it a full day, if you want to stop and do the touted, if overrated, float in the Dead Sea.

Days8-10:TelAvivTo relax and digest the experiences a very engaging trip, spend the final two to three days in Tel Aviv. Depending on their preference, visitors can continue with cultural sights or unwind on the city’s famous beaches.

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it is worth planning a trip around. 8 Ma’avar Yabok St.; (972) 52 703 5888.

Relaxed but Refined: Orna and EllaThe focus at Orna and Ella is on wholesome ingredients, and although small, the cozy res-taurant has quite a reputation. Regulars come for the yam pancakes with sour cream and chive sauce, but the rest of the menu is equally note-worthy. Shenkin 33; (972) 03-620-4753.

Neighborhood Place: Abu HasanThis no-frills local spot is Tel Aviv’s finest hummuseria. Nutritious and comforting, the regional specialty is revered by locals, who attest that Abu Hasan serves the best in all of Israel. It remains open only until the hummus runs out, so go early. 1 Ha’Dolfin St.; (972) 3 682 0387.

Quick Break: Anita CaféLocated on a charming shopping street, this café boasts a multitude of ice cream flavors that will have your head spinning. 25 Shabazi St.; (972) 3 517 0505.

SEE & DOThe Bahá’í GardensThe Bahá’í Gardens are the can’t-miss attraction of Haifa, a hilltop city in the north of the coun-try, 30 minutes from Tel Aviv. Extending almost a kilometer down a mountain’s slopes, they look otherworldly in their manicured perfection, their carpet of bright green grass running down symmetrically. It’s part of the headquarters of the Bahá’í faith, whose chief prophet is buried here. Haifa; (972) 4 831 3131.

BeachesTel Aviv, often called the Miami of the Middle East, is at its best during the spring and early summer, when visitors can frolic beachside and lap up the luxurious warm weather. The coastal city, with high-rise hotels running the length of the beach, boasts a waterfront walkway ideal for early morning runs or afternoon walks, and a new bike rental system for family-friendly fun.

Neot KedumimSince 1901 the Jewish National Fund has planted 250 million seedlings in Israel’s bare and rocky hills, in an effort to transform them into an appropriately verdant homeland. Neot Kedumim, the Biblical Landscape Reserve, wel-comes visitors to plant a tree in the Holy Land, which remains much as it was 3,000 years ago. Judean Hills; (972) 8 977 0777.

The Ayalon Institute (Bullet Factory)The Ayalon Institute appears to be nothing more than a hilltop kibbutz composed of a din-ing hall, chicken coop, barn, laundry and bak-ery. In fact, it housed a top-secret, underground bullet factory created by Zionist leaders in the 1930s with the purpose of producing ammuni-tion for their fight for independence. Kibbutz Hill, Rehovot, 972 08-940-6552.

Bahá’í Gardens

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postcard

Tasmanian GetawayAn Indagare member recently returned from a vacation in Tasmania. Here are her impressions from the trip.

Tasmania’s Museum of Old and New Art (655 Main Rd.; 61 3 6277

9900; www.mona.net.au) is a very special place to visit, and it is nice to see such a massive investment from a private citizen to create a museum. The space is very impressive and should definitely be on everyone’s Tasmania to-do list. Much of the artwork is provocative and can be shock-ing, but it was one of the more important cultural experiences I’ve ever had in Australia.

The accommodations at the Pavilions (www.mona.net.au),

the museum’s hotel, are me-diocre. I would advise people to fly into Hobart, go straight to the museum and then travel to their next destination at the end of the day. The museum can be done in one day. I was expecting Hobart to be a quaint village with unique architecture and local artisans, but I didn’t find it to be all that charming. We had a nice lunch there, but I would not make the effort to spend time there on my next visit.

The highlight of our trip was the Saffire Freycinet (2532 Coles Bay Rd.; 61 3 6256 7888;

www.saffire-freycinet.com.au). It is hands down the best place we have stayed in Australia. The interiors are lovely, the service is warm, and the food is superb. All the rooms are gor-geous and feature breathtaking views. Even the pickiest travel-ers will love it here. The spa is great, as are the activities on offer. We took a helicopter to the resort—an unnecessary but very fun experience.

Read more member postcards at www.indagare.com and contact our bookings team at 212-288-2611 or [email protected] for help planning your next adventure.

Saffire Resort at sunset

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arts/culture

The Cuban Art SceneDuring Indagare’s February Insider Trip to Havana, Amelia osborne got swept up by the country’s art—and those who create it.

Indagare’s recent Insider Trip to Havana followed an itinerary that set my geeky

art-history-loving heart aflut-ter. We visited artists’ studios, a brand-new collective housed in a former factory and the private home of a modern-day Gertrude Stein and had a pri-vate tour of the city’s foremost art museum that was led by a world-renowned expert on Cuban art. As I walked, looked, listened and admired, I was struck with the thrilling realization that we are at an important juncture in Cuban history. The artists of the country are in some ways lead-ing a cultural revolution, aided by changes in the government

and international relations. It surprised me that many

of Cuba’s most revolutionary and outspoken individuals are the island’s artists. Instead of being hushed by the famously domineering government, these creatives—painters, sculptors, photographers, mu-sicians and poets—are revered as celebrities, in accordance with socialism’s emphasis on intellectual endeavors. In an Orwellian-appropriate twist, those who make public comments on the state and its flaws are some of the country’s wealthiest citizens and enjoy certain freedoms—such as exit visas—not available to the mass population.

Touring Old Havana’s National Museum of Fine Arts, our guide, whose English was nearly perfect, misspoke when she told us to “watch” the still-life painting we stood in front of (she obviously meant “look at”). But this word choice reso-nated with me after I spent a few days in Cuba’s capital. Foreigners who choose to visit (and for Americans there are now legal ways to do so), as well as those who stay away, are watching the country as it enters an era that will likely see great change. Without a doubt, it will be the artists who lead the way into this exciting next chapter. Here are the ones to watch.

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Artists to WatchI had the pleasure of spending time with a handful of talented artists during my stay.

Kadir Lopez-Nieves (www.kadirlopez.com) works with metal signs from before the 1959 revolution. He alters the ads—most of which are rusted, battered and occasionally filled with bullet holes—with paint and blown-up photographs of 20th-century icons.

Damian Aquiles (damiana-quiles.ca) works with metal and found objects, such as flattened gallon paint cans, to create installations that are at once colorful and sobering.

Nelson Ramírez de Arellano Conde (www.liudmilanelson.com) is an artist in his own right as well as an important member of Havana’s artistic community. His work, with ex-wife Liudmila Velasco, examines cultural and political aspects of Cuban life through manipulated photography. He is also the director of Cuba’s National Gallery of Photogra-phy and has built Fábrica de Arte Cubano, a gallery cum workspace in an abandoned power plant in the Vedado neighborhood. Monumental pieces are dwarfed by the warehouselike space, but their importance and outspoken statements manage to fill the room. At night FAC becomes a club hosting viewings, dinner parties and cocktail events.

Carlos Garaicoa (www.carlos-garaicoa.com) has had great success with his multimedia pieces that look at Havana’s dramatic fall from grace.

Yoan Capote (yoan-capote.com) works with sculpture to create deeply introspective works.

Los Carpinteros (www.loscar-pinteros.net) is a cooperative that consists of the brilliant Marco Castillo and Dagoberto Rodríguez. The pair produces

Yoan Capote Abstinencia Politica

What’s AllowedWe checked with our Cuban-American partners to get the official line on buying and exporting art

from Havana.

According to the terms of the embargo, artworks and other cultural goods can be imported from Cuba. Most artists have bank accounts abroad, which makes paying them not just easier and faster for the buyers but also com-pletely legal under the terms of the embargo. Regarding the Cuban regulations, only contemporary art is allowed to be taken out of Cuba. The artists must ask for export permission at a division of the Ministry of Culture that works with Cultural Goods and Heri-tage, which will provide them with all the documentation the buyers need to present when they are traveling with their purchases. The process for obtaining those permissions is usually very fast, typically taking no longer than a day or two. Many artists have deals with the official office’s work-ers, to avoid bureaucracy and expedite the permissions.

often-witty work in myriad mediums, including Legos, watercolor on paper and LED lights.

To arrange a visit to Havana or to be introduced to any of these artists, please contact Indagare’s Insider Trips department ([email protected]).

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food/wine

NYC Dining Update New York is a city packed with restaurants–and people obsessed with them. Indagare gourmands Emma Pierce and Ashton Keefe share some favorites.

A lthough new hot spots are opening every day in Manhattan, few of

these trendy restaurants have true staying power. We’ve rounded up the latest arrivals that are holding their own in the city’s dining scene.

ABC CocinaWhen this Latin-fusion restaurant, sister to the famed farm-to-table ABC Kitchen, opened last year, epicures agreed that Michelin-star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten had done it again. The hot spot’s cocktails are spectacular

(don’t miss the basil jalapeño margarita), and certain dishes, like the spring-pea guacamole, are fresh and surprisingly delicate. 38 E. 19th St.; 212-677-2233.

Betony A midtown venture by ex–Eleven Madison Park chef Bryce Shuman, Betony wows with its relaxed approach to fine dining. The inspiration of Shuman’s previous mentor, chef Daniel Humm, is evident in the delightful, elevated dishes, and the à la carte menu makes Betony more casual

than your typical gourmet restaurant. 41 W. 57th St.; 212-465-2400.

CarboneThe brainchild of Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi (of Torrisi Italian Specialties and Parm), Carbone is old-school Italian-American at its grand-est—and most expensive. Serv-ing throwback specialties like baked clams and veal marsala, the restaurant is traditional in its Italian-American pomp and circumstance, complete with lots of red sauce. 181 Thomp-son St.; 212-254-3000.

Left to right: Lafayette’s bar; a dish at ABC Cocina; Rotisserie Georgette; The Dead Rabbit’.

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Charlie BirdCharlie Bird demonstrates high-end farm-to-table cuisine with a simple but focused menu. Its happening scene is frequented by neighborhood celebrities. 5 King St.; 212-235-7133.

EstelaRecently cited in Food & Wine Magazine as having one of the best (and most affordable) wine lists in the city, Estela has a menu that combines the simplicity of market-driven cuisine with fine dining. At the helm are a beverage director

who is a Blue Hill Stone Barns alumnus and a James Beard Award–nominated chef.. 47 E. Houston St.; 212-219-7693.

Khe-YoAt this Tribeca restaurant specializing in Laotian cui-sine, sticky rice and dipping sauces are brought to the table instead of the standard bread basket. The small but well-crafted menu is bursting with flavor, and the contemporary brick-and-wood interior is fun and inviting. Make a reserva-tion or be prepared to wait. 157 Duane St.; 212-587-1089.

LafayetteThe largest and most touted restaurant in chef Andrew Carmellini’s New York City empire (sister restaurants in-clude Locanda Verde and The Dutch) pays homage to rustic provincial French cuisine in New York farm-to-table fash-ion. Must-try items include the boulangerie basket at brunch and the rotisserie chicken for two at dinner. 380 Lafayette St.; 212-533-3000.

NarcissaMichelin-starred chef John Fraser shakes things up with

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a new take on rotisserie at his farm-to-table restaurant in the Standard Hotel East Vil-lage. Skewers are reserved for beets, sweet potatoes and the occasional fish, which are all given a crispy, charred exterior. The bustling kitchen, spits turning and roasts crackling, is on display in all its glory. 21 Cooper Sq.; 212-228-3344.

NoMadIf you’ve heard of the NoMad restaurant in the lobby of the NoMad Hotel, you’ve surely heard of its impressive people watching, sleek interiors and spectacular dishes. The menu is created by Daniel Humm, chef and co-owner of acclaimed Eleven Madison Park. A highlight not to miss is the incredibly flavorful roast chicken for two. The NoMad Hotel, 1170 Broadway; 212-796-1500.

Pearl and AshIdeal for sharing, the New American small plates at Pearl & Ash are a perfect comple-ment to the expertly curated wine list. The long, elegant dining room is casual, with bench seating and knick-knacks perched creatively in display cases along the walls. 220 Bowery; 212-837-2370.

PioraAmerican, Italian and Korean cuisines come together in a surprisingly natural combi-nation at Piora, in the West Village. A large flower decal adorns one wall, alluding to the fact that Piora means “blossom” in Korean, as well as to the fact that the best dishes are vegetable based. The well-crafted menu echoes the sleek and creative design of the bar (which serves cocktails poured over hand-carved ice) and din-

ing room, one of whose walls is punctuated by a large window opening onto a charming gar-den out back. 430 Hudson St.; 212-960-3801.

Rotisserie GeorgetteRotisserie owner Georgette Farkas (a Daniel Boulud alum) and Chef David Malbequi (dit-to for Boulud) know that there is nothing more comforting to eat—and smell!—than roast chicken. Georgette provides the relaxed yet sophisticated cuisine that the Upper East Side lacked. 14 E. 60th St.; 212-390-8060.

Skal Icelandic cuisine landed in New York, and set up shop in Chinatown. For those who fear Nordic cuisine as too esoteric, Chef Ben Spiegal (a former apprentice at Noma) provides a gentle introduction with

Dessert at Lafayette

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elevated, delicious interpreta-tions of classic dishes paired with well-crafted cocktails. 220 Bowery; 212-837-2370.

The Dead RabbitUpon arrival at this three-story Financial District speakeasy, patrons are welcomed with a mini teacup of the night’s spe-cialty cocktail. If it’s not your, well, cup of tea, there is a list of seventy-two curated cock-tails from which to choose. Go for one of the communal punches, served in a china bowl, for four to eight people—

a veritable grown-up tea party. 30 Water St.; 646-422-7906.

Toro With eighteen-foot windows looking over the Hudson and a cavernous factory-floor din-ing room, Toro’s new home in Chelsea bears little resem-blance to the cozy one of the Boston original. The New York venue serves delectible dátiles con jamón, seared razor clams à la plancha and plenty of wine and cocktails. Sherry on tap is even available. 85 10th Ave.; 212-691-2360.

ZZ’s Clam BarThe esteemed culinary guys behind Carbone and Torrisi Italian Speciaities do it big with the cool new ZZ’s Clam Bar, featuring an over-the-top interior, a long waiting list (there are only twelve seats) and exorbitant prices, none of which makes it any less worth your time. Presentation is part of the experience: one cocktail is served in a carved coconut, and ceviche comes out cradled in a bowl of ice five times its size. 169 Thompson St.; 212-254-3000.

City SipsAn expertly made cocktail is a rare and beautiful thing, requiring quality ingredients, perfected chilling tech-niques, exquisite barware and, of course, suave bartenders. The Indagare staff likes to think they know a thing or two about well-crafted drinks in and around New York City. Here are some of our favorites.

“Carrot- and miso-infused gin is the star of the “Rabbit in Your Headlights” at Chez Sardine.” ~EmmaPierce

“The Filthy Martini at Cafe Cluny is like the love child of a Bloody Mary and a dirty martini.” ~SashaFeldman

“I’m an old soul and love men’s cigar bars, so my favorite is a Dark and Stormy from the Hudson Ave. Bar and Books.” ~AlexErdman

“I can’t get enough spicy margaritas: the Fresa Fuerte at La Esquina and Habanero Grapefruit Margarita from Barrio Chino are my favorites.” ~KatieStewart

“The ¿Por qué no? at Empellón Taquería is made with tequila, pineapple, serrano and cilantro. It takes me to my happy place.” ~CabellBelk

“The pear martini at Pravda is just sweet and crisp enough. It packs a punch.” ~JanineYu

“Order anything at Campbell Apartments and you’ll feel like you’re having a drink with Don Draper.” ~MarleyGibbons

A cocktail at Empellón Taquería

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portfolio

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After witnessing the distinct lifestyles of indigenous Tibetans and other tribal cultures, photographer Jimmy Nelson has made it his mission to seek out and document the last surviving tribes before globalization reaches all corners of the world. Before They Pass Away (published teNeues, $150) shows both a tender care for the world as it is today, as well as a dedica-tion to future generations who may well grow up in a world that no longer counts some of these tribes among its citizens.

Midway through a cross-country trek in Tibet, eighteen-year old Jimmy Nelson snapped the first images that would come to define the next 26 years of his life.

Now his work is featured in the gorgeous coffee table book, Before They Pass Away. Some of the striking images are excerpted in these pages.

Fleeting Cultures

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portfolio

Ladakhi,IndiaTradition: Way of life is the same as 2,000 years agoBeliefs: Llamas are considered spiritual messengersClimate: Mountain dwellings have 8 months of winterLifestyle:Music festivals are held often

Maori,NewZealandTradition: Haka war dance, tattoosReligion: PolytheistOrigins: Date back to the 13th century ADRemainingPopulation:650,000

Rabari,IndiaTradition: Childhood marriage is commonReligion: Hindu Craft: EmbroideryLifestyle:Nomadic camel herders

Huli,Asaro&Kalam,PapuaNewGuineaClothing: Grass skirts (women), mud and masks (men)Religion: AnimistDemographics: Huli is the largest of several local tribesLifestyle:Tribal warfare is common th

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Kazakhs,MongoliaTradition: Trained golden eagles are used for huntingClothing: Fox-fur hats, or loovuuzLifestyle: Semi-nomadicRemainingPopulation:110,000

Mursi,EthiopiaTradition: Women wear clay plates in their lower lipsReligion:AnimistLifestyle: Cattle herdersRemainingPopulation:4,000

Chukchi,RussiaTransportation: Dog- and reindeer-driven sledsReligion: ShamanismClimate: ArcticRemainingPopulation:15,000

Dropka,India/PakistanTradition: Public displays of affection are regularReligion: BuddhistOrigin: Descendants of an Indo-Aryan tribeRemainingPopulation:About 2,500c

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One of a kindAn inspiring collection of masterpiece hotels

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VENCE · COTE D’AZUR · FRANCE

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Oetker Collection embodies the finest of traditional European hospitality


BADEN-BADEN · GERMANY

L’APOGÉE COURCHEVEL

COURCHEVEL · FRANCE

LE BRISTOL PARIS

PARIS · FRANCE


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FREGATE ISLAND PRIVATE

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PALAIS NAMASKAR

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destination report

South of Francelanie Goodman and the Indagare travel team report about the best of this fabled region, from the lavender fields of Provence to the glistening Côte d’Azur.

Arguably the birthplace of seaside sum-mer chic, the South of France is a place that is forever haunted by its fashion-

able past visitors. Who can help but think of the works of writers like Colette and F. Scott Fitzgerald, their characters idling through languorous days drenched in sun, sea air and romance. It was on the French Riviera that Coco Chanel, that paragon of French style, introduced what remains today to be the chicest of acces-sories: a tan (it was an accident, but still…). And finally, the image of the teenage Brigitte Bardot, slinking through St.-Tropez in And God Created Woman, is often cited as the moment that the sleepy little fishing town was transformed into the world’s most stylish holiday destination.

The ubiquitous straw market bags indigenous to the South of France are, in a way, beautiful

representatives of the region. They are at once rooted in practical tradition—French house-wives and farmers have been using them to tote produce for centuries—and yet remain utterly chic in the most effortless of ways. Today they are paired with Louboutins as often as with espadrilles and carried to art gallery openings as well as to the daily marché. This beautiful juxtaposition stands out in a region known for goat cheese farms and fields of red poppies and fragrant lavender, as much as it is for mega yachts and a long roster of VIP celebrities. So much has changed since Brigitte’s youthful days, but the important things remain. After all, dark sunglasses, convertibles, chilled rosé and seaside romance have yet to go out of style.Contact our Bookings Team (bookings@indagare

.com) for help planning your trip.

WeKnowMore…Our team is con-stantly traveling, to give you the most relevant and up-to-date recommenda-tions and itineraries.

WeThinkMore…We are frequent travelers and we pool our knowledge and members’ feed-back to tweak the details of your trip.

WeCareMore… There’s no such thing as a “best” hotel or destination. We customize all your trips based on your preferences.

WeDoMore… Think of us as your advocates who go above and beyond to ensure that each trip is packed with special touches.

WeGetMore… We secure special rates and amenities at hundreds of prop-erties worldwide, including upgrades and VIP treatment.

Book My Trip: The Indagare Advantage

There is no bookings fee for Indagare members. Contact us at 212-988-2611 or [email protected].

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LAy oF The LAnDMention the South of France to a group of peo-ple, and you can be guaranteed that each person has a different image that comes to mind. Some will think of power yachts, Beyoncé (or Brigitte Bardot) and glamour beach clubs, while others will imagine rolling flower fields, sprawling farmers’ markets and lavender-scented air.

Extending from the marshlands of the Cam-argue to the lemon groves of Menton near the Italian border and reaching inland deep into the mountainous hillsides, this massive region holds an embarrassment of riches, which is one of the reasons it draws travelers throughout the year.

For this Black Book magazine, we have broken down the region into three distinctive places: the French Riviera, Provence and St.-Tropez (which belongs to the French Riviera but stands gloriously apart as the South of France’s most fabled town). The French Riviera is located in the Alpes Maritimes department, encompassing the Mediterranean coast as well as such hilltop towns as Vence, Grasse and St. Paul de Vence. The main resort towns along the coast are Cannes, Antibes and St.-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, with St.-Tropez located farther west.

Much larger than the French Riviera,

Provence occupies several départments, includ-ing the Bouches-du-Rhône, Vaucluse and Alpes de Haute Provence. It’s easiest to map this large region around specific towns: Marseilles, Arles, St.-Rémy and Aix-en-Provence are located in the Bouches-du-Rhône; Avignon and Orange lie in the Vaucluse; and the lesser ex-plored Alpes de Haute Provence is home to such scenic villages as Digne-les-Bains, Sisteron and the incredible Gorges du Verdon, southern France’s self-styled Grand Canyon.

One of the best parts about the south of France is that it captures so many faces of the country that can be seen in one day. As Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley wrote: “On my most recent trip, this summer, I explored the hill towns of Provence on tiny back roads (easier than ever thanks to a good GPS), had lunch and lounged by the pool at the Hôtel du Cap Eden Roc, shopped with my daughter in Cannes (where people watching was more exciting than the clothes shopping) and dined at my new favorite restaurant under a giant linden tree in St. Paul de Vence—all in the same day.”Indagare members trying to decide where to be based and how to plan an itinerary can contact our Bookings Team for help.

destination report

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book My trip: south of franceIndagare members trying to de-cide where to be based and how to imagine an itinerary can contact our Bookings Team for help with customized recommendations.

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Clockwise from left: Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc; a market; Le Rivea in St.-Tropez; petunias; a dish at Eric Maio

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destination report: st. tropez

St.-TropezAlthough St.-Tropez’s reputation as a jet-setter’s paradise may be well deserved, its natural beauty and simple lifestyle are still the main draws. Henley vazquez and lanie Goodman reveal the highlights.

Indagare Plus Members who book through Indagare receive preferential rates and/or special amenities at the properties with the Indagare Plus symbol. Indagare is also a Preferred Partner of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, which means that mem-bers booking through Indagare receive preferred rates, special amenities and VIP treatment at the brand’s properties worldwide. The hotels in this report are rated as $$$ (expensive), $$ (moderately expensive) or $ (reasonable).

La Reserve Ramatuelle

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This French seaside village on the Medi-terranean has long inspired visitors: in the 1890s painter Paul Signac found

his muse in the incandescent light; in the 1920s, Coco Chanel purportedly “discovered,” and quickly popularized, the suntan here; the writer Colette, who lived in a St.-Tropez villa in the 1930s, was drawn to the area’s gorgeous landscapes; and in the 1950s, Roger Vadim turned the town into a symbol of eternal youth and endless summer when he filmed And God Created Woman here. Today St.-Tropez, with its pink stacked houses, continues to cast a power-ful spell. And although its modern reputation as a jet-setter’s paradise may be well deserved, its natural beauty and simple lifestyle are still the main draws.

LAy oF The LAnDThe closest major international airport to St.-Tropez is in Nice. Delta flies there nonstop from New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport, and you can get nonstop flights from most major European cities as well. If you’re renting a car at the airport in Nice and driving to St.-Tropez, it generally takes an hour and a half on route A8 (exit Le Muy), but the drive can be much longer during the summer. The notoriously traffic-clogged RN98 (the traffic –clogged, single-lane road that leads to St.-Tropez from Ste.-Maxime) may be less busy early in the morning or late at night. At the height of the season, avoid it by taking A57, which merges with A8. Exit at La Garde Freinet, and follow the signs to St.-Tro-pez. This route is longer, but there’s little traffic, and it’s a beautiful mountain drive.

VIPs looking to avoid traffic entirely usually book a helicopter from the Nice airport to St.-Tropez or the nearby village of Grimaud. Be aware that weight limits usually mean your luggage can’t travel with you, but a driver can

deliver your bags directly to your hotel. As an alternative, you can fly from Orly to Toulon, which is a more scenic, forty-five minute drive from St.-Tropez.

In town the place to orient yourself is the Place des Lices, St.-Tropez’s central square, where old-timers play pétanque and the bi-weekly outdoor market is held. It leads to a row of cafés on the quay of the Old Port, where the megayachts moor. Near the harbor, a maze of streets lined with designer boutiques snakes its way to a 16th-century citadel on a hill. In neigh-boring Ramatuelle, the beaches of Pampelonne occupy a wide swath of coastline for some five and a half miles.

STAySurprisingly, there is no slam-dunk hotel property in St.-Tropez. Each of the hotels has its pros and con, so deciding where to check in requires a fair amount of consideration and weighing of pluses and minuses. Our Bookings Team can help with the choices. Here are four of our favorites. Many more options can be found at Indagare.com. If you are planning a trip, contact our Bookings Team for help.

Most Indulgent: La Réserve RamatuelleLocated a fifteen-minute drive from the

town of St.-Tropez, La Réserve serves up St.-Tro-pez’s biggest wow factor for travelers in search of a true five-star experience. With twenty-three rooms, it’s small enough to feel personal. But thanks to such amenities as a complete fitness facility, a fantastic spa with specialized Crème de la Mer treatments, indoor and outdoor pools and a wonderful restaurant, it also delivers the experience of a full-service property. The rooms have a contemporary, Scandinavian-inspired look, decorated in a neutral palette with low c

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platform beds, crisp white linens, hardwood floors and drop-dead sea views through a wall of windows. Who Should Stay: Couples seeking romance and pampering and families who want the space of a villa but the services of a five-star hotel. Read Indagare’s review. Hip Newcomer: Hôtel de Paris Saint-TropezTwenty years ago the Hôtel de Paris closed its doors, reopening in 2013 with a new modern look. The ninety rooms and suites start on the small side, but each has impeccable contem-porary decor, mixing natural materials with pops of color. The rooftop restaurant, with its wonderful views across St.-Tropez, is a perfect place to start the day. To recover from a late night, escape to the brand-new Clarins Spa, and don’t miss the rooftop’s glass-bottomed pool, suspended above the hotel’s central atrium.

Who Should Stay: Design-loving couples who want an in-town hot spot and contempo-rary decor and families seeking a full-service hotel. Read Indagare’s review.

Hideaway: Villa MarieBlessed with views of the Bay of Pampelonne and St.-Tropez’s vineyards, this sprawling forty-two-room bastide, in a pine grove just outside Ramatuelle, is a picture-perfect Provençal hide-away, with privacy for couples and grounds for children to play in. Each of the light-filled guest rooms and suites have wrought-iron beds and free-standing carved-stone sinks. The onsite spa offers a menu of treatments ranging from honey-and-brown-sugar scrubs and pink-clay wraps to antiaging facials with edelweiss. Who Should Stay: This is the place for people who prefer hot-stone massages and peace-ful sunset cocktails to night crawling. Read Indagare’s review.

Boutique: Pan dei PalaisThis hotel, located in a refurbished 19th-century mansion just off the Place des Lices, is a favorite with many St.-Tropez regulars. The lobby is furnished with Indian antiques and Asian fur-niture, statues and colorful carpets. The guest rooms, equipped with ceiling fans and beds draped in shimmering fabrics, are unusually spacious and, best of all, can be converted into modular supersuites, ideal for traveling families. Between boutique-hopping (the top shopping is just outside the hotel), guests can lounge on In-donesian daybeds, sip cocktails at their private bar or book a shiatsu massage in the mini-spa. Keep in mind that the Asian décor is not for everyone.Who Should Stay: Couples or families with well-behaved children who want to be in the middle of it all. Read Indagare’s review. c

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eATThe proper St.-Tropez lunch is eaten at one of the chic beach clubs that line Pampelonne. You can book a table anytime from noon to 4 P.M. Particularly at such iconic places as Club 55, the dress code is resort chic—don’t even think about showing up in a bathing suit.

Dinner never begins before 8 P.M., but the crowds really start to hit the restaurants around 9. Eveningwear is fashionable but never formal. Tip: take the notion that you can eat well anywhere in France and toss it out the window of your Ferrari. Most of the food in St.-Tropez is mediocre at best. The scene is paramount, and if you end up with passable food on your plate while sipping rosé and looking fabulous, con-sider it a nice surprise. Here are some Indagare favorites. More can be found at Indagare.com.

Big Night Out: La Réserve The Parisian-trained chef of La Réserve’s restau-rant serves some of the best food in St.-Tropez. He sources most of his ingredients locally, and the servers know his menu inside out, as well as the provenance of each piece of fish and cut of meat. Meals can be taken in the lounge at low cocktail tables, in the main dining room or on the terrace, which affords unmatched views of the sea. Come for dinner, but arrive early enough to watch the sun set with a cocktail.

Newcomer: Le RiveaChef Alain Ducasse planted his St.-Tropez outpost, Le Rivea, in the Hôtel Byblos. The concept: large platters of elegant Ligurian and southern French finger food and a dazzling array of tapas, served on the chic garden deck patio. Expect a scene and great people watching.

Family Friendly: La Pesquière La Pesquière is a local spot in the Old Port, and a great restaurant for families. The outdoor terrace overlooks a small beach where children can play.

Hip Scene: L’Escale This portside haunt, which became mythic in the 1960s, has been snazzily refurbished. It’s trendy, but you can always count on the seafood,

Clockwise: a room at Hotel de Paris; Villa Marie’s ter-race; Le Rivea’s bar; sushi at Nikki Beach; the view from La Reserve Ramatuelle; the pool at Pan Dei Palais

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from fresh oysters to grilled fish. Another idea is to check out the bar-restaurants Le Quai Joseph and Le Grand Joseph (by the same owner), just around the corner. All of these portside hot spots are usually packed with beautiful people and are a great spot for taking in the local scene.

Local Cuisine: L’Auberge de la Mole At this roadside village inn, you’ll find typical Provençal country dishes. Portions are copious, so stick to a light lunch the day you dine here. The restaurant used to be a bar/tabac and a gas station, and cigarettes are still sold downstairs. The food goes well with the local Château Barbeyrolles rosé or a bottle of chilled Pétale de Roses from the same vineyard.

Cocktails: Café Le Senequier The terrace is a thoroughly entertaining place

to have an aperitif while yacht gazing from one of the scarlet canvas chairs. Once frequented by the likes of Colette, Sartre and Cocteau, it still attracts a French showbiz crowd at sunset. Indulge in a tarte tropezienne from the café’s pastry shop—this rather filling cream cake was introduced to St.-Tropez by a Polish baker in the 1950s. The rest of the menu is not fabulous.

Global Cuisine: Salama Book in advance at this popular spot for Moroc-can cuisine served in an exotic but contempo-rary setting. The fish tagines are marvelous as is the couscous.

Scenes from St.-Tropez

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Indagare ToursMost days in St. Tropez revolve around long lunches at the private beach clubs that line Pampelonne

and dips in the Mediterranean followed by shopping, cocktailing and raucous, wine-filled nights in

town. For a quieter group, though, the area offers a variety of activities, including spectacular gardens,

top vineyards and golf (see French Riviera, page 40). Special Indagare Tours that can be organized

through the Indagare Bookings Team include:

Yachts by the day to explore the coast’s hidden coves and islands

Wine Tasting afternoons at vineyards that are by-appointment-only

Bike or walking tours of nearby villages, including scenic Vence and Antibes

Learning boules, perfume mixing or pastry making by locals

Cooking classes with acclaimed chefs special-ized in local cuisine

Exploring the nature and wildlife of the Camargue on horseback

Contact our Bookings Team for help customizing an itinerary for your next South of France trip: 212-988-2611.

On the Water: Beach ClubsOf St.-Tropez’s many beach clubs, the three best are: Club 55, the classic that launched them all; Plage des Jumeaux, boasting a great beach for kids, thanks to a playground right on the sand; and Nikki Beach, known for its rowdy party scene.

ShoPWith hundreds of stores, St.-Tropez has earned a reputation as a shopping mecca. Some of the best shops are found along the Rue Georges Clemenceau, Rue Allard and Rue Gambetta and at the Place de la Garonne.

The fashion on sale at the top boutiques is all about endless summer: pink linen shirts for men and sexy flowing gowns, glittery sandals and shimmering jewels for women. You’ll find stores with big-name brands alongside others selling unmistakable St.-Tropez originals. Those who consider shopping a pastime shouldn’t miss the annual Grande Braderie, a weekend side-walk sale at the end of October when boutiques slash their prices. Tip: contact Indagare for an introduction to the area’s best personal shopper.

Shopping WalkStart in Atelier Rondini, an unassuming family-owned establishment that has clad the feet of Jackie O., Carla Bruni and Kate Moss in custom sandals, then continue to Maison des Lices, for traditional linens, and Kiwi, for a chic bikini or swim trunks suitable for the beach clubs. Ertheé, in the Grand Passage (a shop-lined “alley” off Général Allard), has a great mix of international high-end brands, and purveyors of top luxury brands line the streets all around. The twice-weekly market in the Place de Lices, open on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, is also a great place to scour for everything from souvenirs to serious antiques.


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destination report: french riviera

French RivieraStretching from the northern border of Italy all the way to Cannes and including charming hilltop villages with expansive sea views, the French Riviera is rightly fabled.

The Alpes Maritimes départment stretches along the Mediterranean coast from Menton, near the Italian border, to

Cannes and inland into the hills that are home to such famous villages as Vence, Grasse and St. Paul-de-Vence. (St.-Tropez is located further west, in the department of the Var; see page 31.) The main seaside resort towns in this region are Cannes, Antibes and St.-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The picturesque medieval villages, including Vence, Eze and Gourdon, are inland. This report features the region’s most iconic hotels and some inspiring itineraries. Many more suggestions can be found at Indagare.com. Our Bookings Team can help with customized itineraries.

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Discreet, seaside, elegance: Royal Riviera

For those who do not need the grandest address on the French Riviera but want a discreet five-star in Cap-Ferrat, the Royal Riviera is a lovely escape. Constructed in 1904 as a winter getaway

for the beau monde, the ninety-four-room hotel sits at the end of a sweeping crescent of beach. Its interiors combine Art Deco and neo-Hellenic influences in a nod to an earlier heyday and the Villa Kerylos, the fabulous ancient Greek villa that sits across the bay. On the main floor a love-ly lounge and restaurant look out at a Mediter-ranean garden, beyond which are the pool and access to a sandy beach. Another sixteen guest rooms are housed in the Orangeries, a small villa in the garden. When the traffic becomes unbearable in summer, it is nice to retreat to an elegant oasis within strolling distance of sights, shops and restaurants. Who Should Stay: : Those who want to be in Cap-Ferrat but don’t need to be at the most glamorous address on the point. That title still belongs to Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat. Read Indagare’s review.

Romantic fairy tale getaway: Chateau Saint-Martin

Only a twenty-minute drive from Nice airport in the hills of the Côte d’Azur, Château Saint-Mar- c

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tin is a forty-six-room hotel that seems taken right out of a fairy tale. The grand main struc-ture stands on hilltop amid thirty acres of lush Provençal gardens, housing most of the guest rooms, as well as a two-Michelin-starred restau-rant and wood-paneled salons furnished with chandeliers, antiques and Gobelins tapestries. Tucked away in the gardens are two clay tennis courts and an indulgent La Prairie spa. During the months of July and August, the Kids’ Club offers an afternoon program of such activities as treasure hunts, painting, nature workshops and theater productions. A forty-five-minute drive away is the sister property, Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, which welcomes guests of Château St.-Martin to lounge by its famous seaside pool.Who Should Stay: Anyone who wants the most luxurious hideout in the Provençal hills. Read Indagare’s review.

Grand Côte d’Azur: Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

Sitting on the idyllic peninsula between Nice

and Monaco, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat is one of the South of France’s most iconic properties, exuding pure elegance and serious glamour. More than $1 million per room was invested to refashion the hotel for the 21st century. The interiors remain light and airy, with an under-stated white-on-white design that occasion-ally breaks into splashes of color: an emerald Moreno chandelier here, a colorful tapestry there. What is generating the most buzz, however, is the addition of the Residence wing, which houses sixteen rooms and eight exclusive suites. The suites make the most of the outdoor panoramas: large sliding-panel window walls lead to private terraces and infinity-edged pools (amazingly, the hotel is the first and only along the French Riviera to offer suites with private pools). There’s an 8,000 square-foot spa offer-ing a long list of treatments using Caritas and Comfort Zone products.Who Should Stay: Those who like hushed tones, pure elegance and serious glamour. Read Indagare’s review.

From left: Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc; the terrace at Grand-Hötel du Cap-Ferrat; a room at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

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Glitzy icon: Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc Part of the Oetker Collection, the Hôtel

du Cap-Eden-Roc is one of the French Riviera’s two most iconic properties (the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat is the other). The Hôtel du Cap is nestled among twenty-two acres of private gardens on the southernmost tip of the Cap d’Antibes. There are 121 rooms and suites in the main building and in the Pavilion, right beside the ocean. Accommodations have the same dé-cor, but the main hotel may feel grander, thanks to higher ceilings, hallways with original details and an impressive lobby and bar. The resort’s famous seawater swimming pool is carved into the rock and offers stunning ocean views. Between the tennis club, the spa and the many scenic villages nearby (including Juan-Les-Pins, Cannes, Grasse and Monaco), you could easily spend two weeks here.Who Should Stay: Travelers looking for relax-ation within a refined setting. The hotel hosts guests of all ages: families with young children, couples looking for romance and longtime devo-tees who visit every summer. Read Indagare’s review.

Sexy seaside villa: Cap EstelThis palatial villa was built as a private

residence, and its current owner still uses the property as his home during much of the summer. But when he is not in residence, it is possible to book one of the fourteen suites and four grand apartments. Accommodations come in four types, all designed to feel more like guest rooms in a superchic holiday house than hotel rooms. The grandest ones are in the main house; the most unusual, the Sea Rooms, are built into the rocks above the beach. Surround-ing the house and the infinity-edged pool, which seems to merge into the Mediterranean, are manicured gardens with fountains, rose bushes

and towering pines and palms. The restaurant draws outsiders for lunch and dinner with its incredible French Mediterranean cuisine.Who Should Stay: Those who want a modern Gatsby experience and those who want easy ac-cess to Monte Carlo without staying in Monaco. Read Indagare’s review.

See & DoWe have compiled a roundup of the region’s best half-day and day trips, whether you’re inter-ested in historic villages, island explorations or serious adventure in the great outdoors. Many can easily be combined for fun-filled itineraries. Contact our Bookings Team for help planning your trip to this fabled region.

GREAT OUTDOORSFor those who can tear themselves away from their resorts’ pools, this part of southern France offers incredible hikes and walks.

Gorges du VerdonThis spectacular national park forms a border between the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and the Var. It is known as France’s Grand Canyon, with dramatic cliffs and waterfalls at every twist and turn. Activities here include everything from rafting to rock climbing.Lunch Nearby: La Bastide de Moustiers, Alain Ducasse’s long-established country inn.Driving Times: From St.-Tropez: 1 hour 40 min.; From Chateau Saint-Martin: 1 hour 40 min.; From Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc: 1 hour 45 min; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 2 hours.

Le Domaine du RayolThe lush grounds of this government-protected seacoast park evoke days gone by on the Riviera, with lush wild landscapes right out of a Renoir

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Culinary First-Time MustsFrom gourmet temples to seaside spots and village bistros, dining on the French Riviera offers something for everyone. Even at the more casual spots, however, reservations are often required. Plan ahead and plot some of your sightseeing around the locations of your restaurant choices. Here are some first-time musts. Many more recommen-dations and all contact details can be found on Indagare.com.

Antibes: The Hotel du Cap’s outdoor Eden Roc Grill doesn’t have white tablecloths or hovering waiters; here, you dine on an

ocean liner-style teak deck jutting out over the Mediterranean, with a terrific view of the infinity pool for star ogling.

Antibes: Up on the ancient ramparts in Antibes next to the Picasso Museum is the intimate Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit. The ever-changing menu is about as authentic southern French as it gets.

Grasse: The setting of the Bastide Saint Antoine cannot be beat: set back behind a century-old olive grove, it’s located in an elegant 18th-century country manor. Michelin one-star chef Jacques Chibois is known for his innovative use of Mediterranean olive oil.

Île st. Honorat: Dine with your toes in the sand on this wild sanc-tuary of vineyards and pine forests

at La Tonnelle, where you feast on lobster, homemade bouillabaisse and award-winning homegrown wine produced by the resident Cistercian monks.

st. Paul-de-vence: Le Tilleul, a charming restaurant just inside the village ramparts, serves wonderful contemporary interpretations of Provençal cuisine, and in warm weather, most diners sit at tables beneath a massive linden tree. The restaurant is open from breakfast through to dinner, with an after-noon service and take-away place next door.

vence: One of the most iconic restaurants in the South of France, La Colombe d’Or is a legendary spot known for its views, its art and its food. Look out for works by Picasso, Miró, Cocteau and Bonnard.

Clockwise from top: Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat; a dish at Cap Estel; the dining terrace at La Colombe d’Or

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painting. It is a favorite place for a family out-ing, plus you can go snorkeling and explore a special underwater garden trail of marine life.Lunch Nearby: La Rastègue, in Bormes-les-Mimosas, an unspoiled flower-lined village of tiny vaulted streets and fountains.Driving times: From St.-Tropez: 35 min.; From Chateau Saint-Martin: 2 hours; From Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc: 1 hour 45 min; From Grand-Hô-tel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 2 hours.

Esterel National ParkTake Route 6098 from Mandelieu La Napoule, park in the port of La Rague, and hike up the hillside trail to this spectacular 700-hectare park. Overlooking the red-rock Esterel cliffs, the park boasts fragrant Mediterranean plants and flowers of every variety.Lunch Nearby: Jilali B, perched just above the coastal road faces the tiny port of Figueirette.Driving times: From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From St.-Tropez: 1 hour.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.

ON THE WATERNo trip to the South of France would be com-plete without some time spent on the water. Indagare’s Bookings Team can organize boat charters to explore the small islands nearby.

Ile St Marguerite, Ile St. HonoratThe Lérins Islands are just a ten-minute boat ride from the port of Cannes. The islands are a world apart from the coast, with dusty eucalyp-tus-shaded trails and jade and amethyst creeks.Lunch Nearby: With your toes in the sand, dine at La Tonnelle on Ile St. Honorat.

Iles de PorquerollesThese islands are the Riviera’s best-kept secret and a great family outing, with everything on offer from biking and boat rentals to hiking trails and government-protected sand beaches.Lunch Nearby: Have lunch at Le Mas de Langoustiers at the tip of the island or at the bay-windowed restaurant, L’Olivier, a favorite hideaway for incognito glitterati.

Clockwise: Grand-Hôtel du Cap Ferrat; a local market; aerial view of Monte Carlo; a view at the Grand-Hôtel du

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Indagare ToursSome of southern France’s most exciting activities are best organized through our Bookings Team. Here are some of the special-ized tours we can arrange for members.

Grand Prix ExperienceIt is hard not to think of the Monaco Grand Prix when you are riding along the curving roads of the Riviera, and for those who want to indulge in their race car fantasies, it is possible to get be-hind the wheel of a Ferrari F430 Spider. Options range from a fifteen-minute to an hour-long drive along the backroads of Monaco, Eze and Nice.

cooking classesThere is a great range of food-related activities on offer in the region. You can shop a local market for seasonal produce and return to a family kitchen for a tutorial or you can work in a professional kitchen with one of the region’s top chefs and prepare lunch and then sit down to a feast. Classes range from private informal ones for families to serious affairs for an afternoon or even a week or more.

Monaco Day tripDiscover the tiny kingdom of Monaco with a guide. Visit the casino, the Hotel de Paris and the port and learn about the royal family and its long and colorful history. Drive on the renowned Monte Carlo track and walk in the old town and see the Prince’s Palace. Families will want to stop in at the Oceanographic Museum.

Explore the HilltownsTake a guided tour of the most charming towns on the Riviera, including Eze and St. Paul de Vence. Your experience can be tailored to your interests so if you are an art lover, you can visit the Fondation Maeght and Matisse Chapel. Families may want to explore by bike or try a painting or perfume workshop, or visit a market.

VINEYARDSHere are three of Indagare’s favorite vineyards, all within driving distance of the coast’s resorts.

Château de RoselineThis unique vineyard is housed in a 12th-century cloister surrounded by a rose garden and contemporary sculptures, with a Baroque chapel next door containing works by Chagall and Giacometti. It also offers wine tastings, as well as evening concerts ranging from jazz performances to flamenco dancing.

Driving times: From St.-Tropez: 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour 30 min.; From Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc: 1 hour; From Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour 45 min.

Château de BerneHidden away in the leafy countryside of Lorgues, the Château de Berne boasts some of the Var’s top-notch vintages and offers a variety of wine-tasting workshops, lasting from one to c

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three hours, on its sprawling estate. Kids can take advantage of such activities as renting a dune buggy for a spin through the vast park. Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 20 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Royal Riviera: 1 hour 15 min.

Château du BelletTake a tour through these award-winning fifty-five-hectare hillside vineyards. Nice’s unique folle noire, a dark, full-bodied grape, grows only in the chalky soil of Le Bellet. Driving Times: From St.-Tropez: 1 hour 30 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 40 min.; From-Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Royal Riviera: 40 min.

FOOD & ARTAficionados of art and food can design days around visits to some of the museum gems on the Côte d’Azur and memorable meals nearby. Here are some good geographical pairings.

Saint Paul-de-VenceLa Fondation Maeght is the Riviera’s star cultural attraction, with its cutting-edge exhibi-tions and a permanent collection of 20th-century artwork ranging from Calder mobiles to Chagall mosaics. The Matisse Chapel is also in Vence. Lunch nearby at classic La Colombe d’Or or at Le Tilleul or Les Bacchanales.Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 30 min.; From Chateau Saint-Martin: 15 min.; From Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 45 min.

Le CannetThe Musée Pierre Bonnard, opened in 2011, is just a stone’s throw from the pink villa where

the celebrated French painter produced most of his masterworks. Lunch in Le Cannet at La Villa Archange, a gastronomic temple, or at the same chef ’s more casual Le Bistrot des Anges.Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.

St. Jean Cap-FerratThe Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is a turn-of-the-20th-century extravaganza created by Bar-oness Béatrice de Rothschild. A visit includes the villa and seven hectares of exotic Mediterra-nean gardens containing Renaissance fountains. Lunch with sea views at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat or at the more casual Paloma Beach. Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour.

MentonThe Musée Cocteau is a seaside architectural gem with a rotating collection of works by the multitalented poet, painter, filmmaker and artist. Dine on the glass and chrome terrace of Le Mirazur, which sits on a hill near the Italian border, or at Cap Estel, in Eze. If you want to drive into Monte Carlo afterward, Alain Du-casse’s Louis XV is excellent for dinner.Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From-Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Royal Riviera: 45 min.

NiceAlthough the Musée Matisse is not one of the most special small museums in the South of France, lovers of Matisse’s work will find it worth a stop. Lunch at La Réserve or Kei’s Pas-sion for fine cuisine or at Bistro d’Antoine.

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destination report: provence

ProvenceWhat we call Provence is a massive region of southern France, basically extending from western Arles all the way to the French Riviera.

When most travelers hear Provence, they (still) think of the Lubéron that Peter Mayle wrote about in A Year

in Provence, with rolling fields of lavender and quirky locals. But although this bucolic vision does indeed exist, the vast region offers much more. There are historically important towns, like Avignon and Arles; great wineries along the Rhône; and rugged landscapes, like the Gorges du Verdon, a paradise for hikers and climbers.

This report is organized by the départments most important to a traveler and the cities where the best hotels are based: Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Cassis. Hotels in this part of France are small, personal and unique. For help finding the one that’s right for your trip, contact our team of travel experts, who can also help with customized touring itineraries. More sug-gestions can be found on Indagare.com.

LAy oF The LAnDThe largest city of the Bouches-du-Rhône is Marseilles, where a lot of people arrive by train. The department’s most famous scenic towns are Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St.-Rémy-de-Provence and Salon-de-Provence. The Vaucluse/Lubéron department starts around Avignon and ex-pands east. It includes the Lubéron, the region made famous in Peter Mayle’s book A Year in Provence.

Most of the scenic small towns that epitomize Provencal living are located here: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Apt, Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Gordes. The Var runs along the coast east of Cassis and includes the summer resort of St.-Tropez. Stretching into the hillside, it encompasses as well such famous hilltop towns as Fayence, Cal-lian, Seillans and Tourrettes. It’s also famous for its wine region, centered around Bandol, which is known for its spicy rosé.

eATExcept perhaps for Tuscany, Provence is the region that most inspires dreams of incredible meals, be it lengthy Michelin-starred affairs or simple picnics composed of a crusty baguette and a selection of cheeses from the local farms.

Big Night Out: La Villa MadieThis contemporary seaside restaurant in Cassis facing the Cap Canaille is headed by a one-Michelin-starred chef. For lunch, get a table on the pretty outdoor terrace with a view of the sea and windswept pines and order from the delicious A la Petite Cuisine menu, offering a variety of dishes grilled in a wood-burning oven. Serious gourmets should come back for dinner and order the copious tasting menu. Bouches-du-Rhône. www.lavillamadie.com

Classic: Les Deux GarçonsThis Aix-en-Provence landmark on the tree-lined Cours Mirabeau is named after the two waiters who bought it in 1840 and transformed it into the city’s first café (locals refer to is the 2G). The magnificent décor is unchanged, with antique chandeliers, ceiling fans, gilded mirrors and a frieze of golden angels, while waiters ply their trade in black vests and white shirts. Try the fresh oysters and assorted shellfish platters or the reliably good plat du jour. Bouches-du-Rhône. 53 Cours Mirabeau; 33 (0) 4 42 26 00 51.

Foodie Favorite: L’AtelierEver since chef Jean-Luc Rabanel opened this tiny, elegant bistro on a quiet side street in Arles, the waiting list for reservations has kept getting longer. Highlights from his all-natural seventeen-course tapas menu include a tomato c

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Clockwise: Gordes; Provencal tissu; at Domaine de la Baume; lavender fields; Atelier Cezanne

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destination report: provence

marshmallow in gazpacho, polenta and fresh Thai-style tuna, a spectacular Aix-inspired des-sert: white chocolate with anise, black olives, fennel confit and nut ice cream. Bouches-du-Rhône. www.rabanel.com.

Setting: Maison BruOff a country road in Eygalières, in a white-stone farmhouse amid an olive grove, this sleek contemporary restaurant is always jam-packed with a chic international crowd. Belgian chef Wout Bru, who also has an affordable brasserie in the village, offers a daring departure from traditional Mediterranean cuisine. Bouches-du-Rhône. www.chezbru.com.

Neighborhood Place: Mas du CapounSet on a country road between St.-Rémy-de-Provence and Eygalières, this light-filled modern restaurant is always buzzing with well-heeled locals who come for the delicious three-course lunch specials. The Belgian owners, Michèle and Michaël Roumain—the second of whom is also the chef—offer an excellent small menu of changing, market-driven dishes.

Diners sit in a pretty refurbished barn with a white minimalist decor. Book in advance, since the unbeatable prices at this friendly, stylish haunt have put Mollèges—an otherwise unremarkable village—on the map. Bouches-du-Rhône. www.masducapoun.com.

Restaurant Eric MaioThis restaurant, in the scenic, hillside town of Montauroux, features superb traditional region-al fare served on a cool linden–shaded terrace. Try chef Maio’s pan-fried foie gras with summer truffles and vanilla Bourbon, artichoke ravioli, John Dory fish with herbs and stuffed zucchini and the copious platter of local cheeses. Var. www.eric-maio.fr.

Great View: Les Gorges de PennafortLocated at the bottom of a canyon in Callas, surrounded by green oaks and dramatic red cliffs, this elegant restaurant is run by long-established Michelin-star chef Philippe da Silva and his wife, Martine. Be forewarned: this is the place for guiltless gorging on da Silva’s refined and authentic regional dishes, so expect to lin-ger at the table. Unsurprisingly, there’s a helipad so that government officials and sports and film stars can drop in for lunch. Var. www.hostellerie-pennafort.com.

See & DoHow you tour the large sprawl that is Provence depends greatly on where you are based. There are quaint villages and gorgeous landscapes at every turn, but few are worth a multihour detour, except perhaps the triple As: Avignon, Arles and Aix-en-Provence. Indagare members can contact our Bookings Team for help with trip planning, including customized recommen-dations and itineraries, such as wine tastings, horseback riding, cooking classes and a guided tour with an English-speaking driver.

Aix-En-ProvenceThe birthplace of Paul Cézanne, Aix is a stroller’s paradise with ornate façades, carved stone fountains and lively cafés, which are perfect for leisurely coffee breaks under the plane trees. Art aficionados should not miss two very special museums: the Atelier Cézanne has preserved everything as the master artist left it; you can even see the porcelain crockery familiar from his still lifes. The Musée Granet, mean-while, hosts top temporary exhibitions and has a permanent collection of works by mostly French painters of the 16th through 20th centuries. Aix also has one of southern France’s loveliest and best-known markets every Saturday. c

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Shop: Local TreasuresBesides a few choice boutiques, shopping in Provence is all about visiting the region’s incred-ible markets and hunting for local food treasures, crafts and antiques (the antiques markets of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue are world-acclaimed). These three are worth the drive.

Ceramic: Faïence BondilThere are lots of faïence boutiques in this region. This one, in Moustiers, is the real deal. faiencebondil.fr.

Edith Mézard Mézard, whose shops is located in Lumières-Goult, is the high priestess of embroidered linens and gauzy curtains, in a palette of soft greys, whites and creamy beiges. www.edithmezard.fr.

Jeanne BayolDon’t leave St. Rémy de Provence without a stop at the garden boutique Jeanne Bayol, owned by a well-known interior designer. Expect a fanciful collection of one-off relaxed chic threads and unusual housewares in a rainbow of eye-popping colors. www.jeanne-bayol.com.

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ArlesTake a walking tour through Arles following the footsteps of Van Gogh, visiting the Roman am-phitheater and seeing sites painted by Gauguin and the Church of St. Trophime. You can stop at a famous Provençal antiques dealer and have lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant before driving through the haunting landscapes of the Camargue and visiting a nature preserve. While in town, be sure to visit the Musée Réattu, which has a small collection of works by Léger, Dufy and Gauguin plus paintings and drawings donated to the city by the Picasso family, and the Musée d’Arles et de la Provence Antique, located in a snazzy modern building, which is devoted to the city’s prehistory and artifacts from the region’s Classical heritage.

AvignonThis Unesco World Heritage site is worth a day trip all by itself. One of the most beautiful cities in the world, Avignon is home to the magnifi-cent Gothic palace of the Popes, more than two dozen of whose rooms are open to visitors. While in town, consider taking a cooking class at La Mirande. This historic hotel has a charm-ing kitchen in the cellar, complete with hanging copper pots, a wood burning stove and large communal table, where it holds cooking and pastry classes with world-renowned chefs. From spring through fall, there are special cooking classes available for children as well.

CassisCassis, a lovely seaside town eighteen miles east of Marseille (and about a forty-minute drive from Aix-en-Provence), has resisted the cutesy-cum-chic gentrification of Provençal vil-lages. It remains a friendly, unspoiled spot with crystalline coves, pebble beaches and windswept umbrella pines. Start your visit with a dip in

the sea at the Plage du Bestouan, a pretty cove with a pebble beach, or hop aboard one of the glass-bottomed boats at the port for a tour. No snooty private beaches with lounge chairs here—just flat smooth rocks for sunbathing and the deafening thrum of cicadas in the pines overhead. Don’t miss a stroll down to the port, where fishermen haul in their fresh catch of the day. If you’re in the mood for a longer walk, Cassis is a hiker’s paradise, thanks to its dazzling white coastal limestone cliffs, locally known as les calanques. Grab a map that shows the trails at the tourist office on the Quai des Moulins.

Off the Beaten PathSet on a narrow winding country road north of Aix-en-Provence, the sprawling, 200-hectare Château La Coste is a not-to-be missed attrac-tion. An art center, sculpture garden, winery and café, it offers a wealth of architectural mar-vels standing side by side. The buildings were conceived by brilliant architects Jean Nouvel, Norman Forster, Renzo Piano, Frank Gehry and

The terrace and a dish at Eric Maio

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Spotlight: Domaine de la BaumeDomaine de la Baume, formerly the private

home of French artist Bernard Buffet, this

stately 18th-century Provencal farmhouse is

now an elegant 9-room country auberge. It’s

another dream escape orchestrated by hôtelier

Jocelyn Sibuet, who is known for her artistic

flair for refined interior design. The ground

floor of the main house is an eye-catching

succession of cozy parlors with fireplaces. Up-

stairs, each of the spacious, deeply comfort-

able rooms is decked out with toile de Jouy

fabrics and four poster beds. The estate is an

inviting expanse of olive groves, truffle oaks,

waterfalls and walking paths. The restaurant

features a small menu of delicious, market-

driven dishes, served on the chestnut tree–

shaded terrace and overlooking the hillside.

Who Should Stay: Couples seeking a restful

country atmosphere in the lesser-explored

Var. Read Indagare’s review.

~Lanie Goodman

Richard Rogers. The sprawling estate, includ-ing a pine forest, is dotted with sculptures by an international group of top artists. At the arts center, designed by Tadeo Ando, gear up for your art trek with market-fresh homemade dishes. And at the end of your day, indulge in a wine tasting at the top-quality winery together with platter of charcuterie and local cheeses while enjoying the exquisite setting. www.chateau-la-coste.com

The spectacular Gorges du Verdon national park forms a border between the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region and the Var. It’s known as France’s Grand Canyon because of its spectacular rock formations and deep ocher gorges, but it also features verdant hillsides and waterfalls. Activities include everything from rafting to rock climbing. There are several lakes with beaches and picnic areas. Visitors can also explore from the water in rented kayaks and paddle boats, including some with water slides in the rear, which are popular with kids.

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last word

fictionTheAvignonQuintet,LawrenceDurrell,1974-1985.This series of five novels by famed British author Lawrence Durrell are layered exami-nations of writing and World War II with parts set in France.

TheBayofAngels,AnitaBrookner,2001. A novel by Booker-Prize-win-ning author about a woman having to face hard truths while vacationing in Nice.

BonjourTristesse,FrancoiseSa-gan,1953.Classic French coming-of-age story set on the Riviera.

BreakofDay,Colette,1928. Origi-nally published as La Naissance du Jour, this memoir was written when Colette was in her fifties and living in St. Tropez. It is full of her poetic mus-ings on life, love and beauty as well as the allure of the French Riviera.

TenderIstheNight,F.ScottFitzgerald,1933.The classic tale of artists and “the lost generation” living it up on the French Riviera.

TheMysteriousMr.Quin,AgathaChristie,1930. Murder and intrigue on the Riviera.

EpitaphforaSpy,EricAmbler,1952— A terrific spy novel about a man at the end of his Riviera vacation who drops his film off at the drugstore – and finds himself ar-rested and under suspicion when the photos that come back aren’t his.

ThérèseDesqueroux,FrançoisMauriac,1927— This haunting portrait of a despairing young wom-an in Bordeaux is widely acclaimed as Mauriac’s finest literary work.

non-fictionEverybodyWasSoYoung:GeraldandSaraMurphy,ALostGen-eration,AmandaVaill,1998.The beautifully written story of a spoiled American couple who finds glamour and loses their way on the French Riviera.

QueenVictoriaandtheDiscoveryoftheRiviera,MichaelNelson,2001— A well-researched account of Queen Victoria’s love affair with the French Riviera.

EdithWhartonontheFrenchRiv-iera,PhilippeCollas,2002 — A fascinating look at the Golden Age of the French Riviera between the wars during the time the American writer visited and found it both a writing paradise and socially shallow – with vintage photographs.

ArtistsandtheirMuseumsontheRiviera,BarbaraF.Freed,1998— See the region through the eyes of its most famous artists, like Paul Signac, Renoir, Matisse, Chagall, Picasso and Cocteau.

AYearinProvence,PeterMayle,1991 — Mayle, his wife and their two dogs pick up and move to Provence in this endearing, evocative account of their time enjoying rural French life.

filmsToCatchaThief,AlfredHitchcock,1955– A classic thriller starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly as they race around the French Riviera.

ParisWhenitSizzles,RichardQuine,1964– This comedic interpretation of the film industry chronicles Richard, an uninspired

screenwriter, as he falls in love, and turns his budding romance into a screenplay.

AndGodCreatedWoman,RogerVadim,1957– Accredited with launching Brigitte Bardot’s career, this film follows the young Juliette and her many paramours.

LaCageAuxFolles,ÉdouardMolinaro,1978 – Laurent brings his fiancée and her conservative parents home to meet his gay, St-Tropez nightclub-owner parents in this rau-cous film that inspired the American remake The Birdcage.

DiamondsareForever,GuyHam-ilton,1971 – The opening shots of the seventh James Bond film, and Sean Connery’s last, were shot in Cap D’Antibes.

LaPiscine,JacquesDeray,1970This sexually-charged film tells of passion gone wrong.

FrenchKiss,LawrenceKasdan,1995– Meg Ryan is on her way to meet her fiancé in France, but meets trouble in the way of Kevin Kline, and comedic unrest ensues.

AGoodYear,RidleyScott,2006 A self-involved investment banker, played by Russel Crowe, gets a taste of the Provencal life in this film based on Peter Mayle’s novel of the same name.

TheFrenchConnection,WilliamFriedkin,1971 – Gene Hackman (in an Ocsar-winning role) stars as a detective in this film that won the Academy Award for Best Picture.

“You’re the only girl I’ve seen for a long time that actually did look like something blooming.” – F. Scott Fitzgerald, Tender Is the Night

Reading/Viewing List


LE BRISTOL PARIS

Paris · France


Vence · cote d’azur · France


Baden-Baden · Germany

L’APOgéE COURCHEvEL

courcheVel · France


caP d’antiBes · France

FREgATE ISLAND PRIvATE

seychelles

PALAIS NAMASKAR

marraKech · morocco


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“And we laughed, because it is good to laugh, and because one laughs easily in a climate where there is a real long, hot summer with soft breezes...” ~Colette

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