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MINISTERIODE INDUSTRIA, TURISMOY COMERCIO

TURESPAÑA

Puerta de Alcalá

IntroductionTHE TERRITORY

Majestic and stylishly dignified,the archway known as the Puertade Alcalá (puerta; gate),designed by the architectSabatini in Spain’s Age ofEnlightenment, is at once asymbol of a city eager towelcome the world, and averitable gateway to Spain formillions of visitors from allaround the globe.

Five and half million people livein the Madrid Region(Comunidad de Madrid), withapproximately three millionconcentrated in the metropolitanarea. This region is situated atthe geographical centre ofmainland Spain, and is borderedby Castile & León, whosedomains extend northwards asfar as the Cantabrian Range andwestwards to nearby Portugal.Stretching away to the south andeast are the plains of Castile-LaMancha, which convey the

traveller down to the beaches ofthe Mediterranean.

Madrid stands on the Castilianhigh plateau or tableland(meseta) at a height of 646metres (2,119 ft.) above sea level,where Barajas Airport is one ofthe most popular focal points forthe forty-nine million touristswho flock to Spain every year.Radiating out from the city’sinner hub is a complex rail androad network that speedstravellers to any corner of Spain,to neighbouring France andPortugal, or to the sea frontierwith North Africa. Surrounded bymountains and impressivescenery, the Madrid Regionenjoys a temperate continentalclimate, with spectacular springs,hot summers, long, mild, brilliantautumns, and winters that, whilenot overly cold, bring snow tothe nearby summits, therebyproviding additional leisureand fun.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 1

City tours 8

Art and culture 34

Side-trips through the region 38

Leisure and entertainment 46

Three World Heritage Citiesan hour from Madrid 52

Useful information 56

S PA IN

Atlantic Ocean

France

Ireland

Madrid

Paris

London

Dublin

Bay of Biscay

MediterraneanSea

CeutaMelilla

Portugal

Lisbon

UnitedKingdom

Font cover:Cibeles y Puerta de Alcalá

Back cover:San Lorenzo de El Escorial

Published by:© Turespaña

Secretaría de Estadode Turismo

Ministerio de Industria,Turismo y Comercio

Text:Carlos Aganzo

Translation:Michael D. Benedict

Photographs:TURESPAÑA

Photographic Archives

Layout and design:P&L MARÍN

Printed by:GRAFOFFSET, S.L.

D.L.: M-26117-2009NIPO: 704-09-325-6

Printed in Spain

4th Edition

HISTORY AND ARTISTICHERITAGE

Behind the modern region thatmeets the eye today, there lies asignificant body of history, whichis undoubtedly one of its mainattractions. Although the capital

city of Madrid harks back tosettlements on the banks of theRiver Manzanares in the remotepast, its foundation as such didnot take place until the arrival inthe 9th century, of Mohammed I,the fifth Omayyad Emir ofCordoba. Testimony to that eraof conquest and splendour of

Moorish Spain is still visiblein the remains of theMoorish walls, now

converted into a venue thatin summer stages zarzuela

(Spanish operetta), drama andoutdoor shows. It was KingAlfonso VI, two hundredyears later, who won thecitadel for the Kingdom of

Castile, a citadel that, with itslong-vanished alcázar (fortress-palace) was thenceforth tobecome one of the bastions inthe line held by the Christiankingdoms against the Moors. In1110, the fortress courageouslywithstood the siege of theAlmoravids, and in 1202 AlfonsoVIII granted Madrid its Charter,thereby formally constituting thecommonwealth of the city and its

domains (Comunidad de Villa yTierra, villa being equivalent tothe French ville).

Madrid witnessed the courtintrigues to secure the throne ofCastile, initially for Juana laBeltraneja, and only subsequentlyfor Isabella the Catholic. Theso-called Comuneros (16th-centurySegovian insurgency movement)passed through Madrid at thetime of King Charles I of Spain,better known as the Holy RomanEmperor Charles V, and it washere too that the Court sat in1561, under Philip II, with thetown becoming the capital of anempire on which the sun neverset, the centre of the then“civilised” world. Two principalroyal houses, the Hapsburgs andthe Bourbons (present to this dayin the person of the present KingJuan Carlos I), experienced thevagaries of fortune in the capitalcity of Madrid, an “old ramblingtown” transformed over the yearsinto a royal and illustrious city.Today, with the Hapsburgs as yourguide, you can visit the Madrid ofthe Plaza Mayor

(main square) or Retiro Park. InBourbon company, on the otherhand, you can take in the RoyalPalace, Prado Museum, Cibelesfountain or Puerta de Alcalá, onwhich the enlightened Charles III -nicknamed “Madrid’s bestmayor”- left his indelible mark.In addition, there are just somany streets and avenues steepedin history, and so many lovelychurches, under the protectiveumbrella ofLa Almudena Cathedral and theChurch of St. Isidore, the legacy ofa city that for centuries was thevery image of spirituality for theChristian kingdoms.

Madrid, city of kings, is also thestarting point for the highwaysand byways that lead to the Royalresidences, namely, palaces,mansions or lodges that themonarchs had built in exquisitesettings, and whose grandeur hascome down to us intact. TheMonastery of El Escorial, a shortdrive from Madrid on the RoyalWay to Avila, is indisputably thejewel in the crown. Ensconced in

Aranjuez Palace

5

say that Madrid, as a region, is agenuine ecological paradise. It hasimpressive natural areas and abooming agricultural sector, whichin recent years has developed anumber of foodstuffs bearingMadrid’s own seal of origin.Likewise, if Madrid is theinstitutional capital that is the seatof the country’s parliament,government and king, then it isno less true that the city is thegreenest capital in Europe, with itstwo magnificent oases -RetiroPark (Jardines del Buen Retiro)and the heath-like Casa deCampo-which together head along list of parks and gardens.

A stone’s throw from the majorsights and bustlingthoroughfares, the Madridregion also boasts singularlyscenic spots that are being everbetter protected and have made

this part of Spain into one of themost ecological areas in Europe.There are innumerable greenroutes criss-crossing the region,and the wide range of activitieson offer includeshiking, mountain climbing,mountain biking and cycling,horse and pony trekking. ThePeñalara cirque and tarnpossess a silent high-mountainbeauty, in which the crystal-clearair and omnipresent greenerycompete with the curiouslyweathered rocks and glintingsheen of the water. The sameapplies to the La Pedriza area,where delightful spots are to befound along the ManzanaresRiver. For tree lovers, autumn intheMontejo Beech Tree Grove(hayedo) is a riot of colour, as it isin Fuenfría Valley and HerreríaWoods (bosque). Without an ideaof the evocative natural areas

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the mountains, it is an impressivesight, the power base from whichPhilip II held sway over hisboundless domains. Altogethermore stylish, flanking theromantic delights of the Tagusriverside, Aranjuez Palace standsas the prime example of thesplendour and refinement of aSpanish Court that set thestandard in Europe in matters oflineage. Standing in part of whatwere once extensive huntinggrounds in the environs of thecapital is the Pardo Palace: inFranco’s Spain it was the centre ofpower but now, aside from beinga popular sight visited by scoresof tourists, is reserved for the useof visiting foreign dignitaries. Itlies very close to both theZarzuela Palace, the residence ofKing Juan Carlos, and theMoncloa Palace, the officialresidence of the Spanish PrimeMinister.

A place that, without a shadow ofa doubt, warrants a quick side-trip is Alcalá de Henares, whichenjoyed a pinnacle of splendourfrom the latter part of the 15th

century (coinciding with thefoundation of the university) upuntil the 17th century. Birthplaceof Cervantes, the universallyacclaimed author of Don Quixote,Alcalá de Henares is a universitycity that has produced some ofthe most superlative examples ofSpanish culture of all times. It hasjoined the ranks of the selectgroup of officially declaredUNESCOWorld Heritage Cities,just recompense indeed for theeffort made by this town in recentyears to rescue its enormousheritage. When travellingthrough Madrid Province, be surenot to miss certain gems, such asthe town squares of Chinchónand Colmenar de Oreja, or thecountless Madrid mountainvillages and hamlets that havesomehow managed to conservetheir rustic charm despite theirproximity to the capital.

NATURAL HERITAGE

If the Madrid metropolitan area isthe indisputable administrativeand business centre of Spain, withits core centred on the AZCAcomplex, Castellana boulevardand industrial belt to the south,then it would be no less true to

Peñalara Tarn

La Pedriza

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of one or more of them at somecafé or cultural event.

Yet , beyond all of this –thesights, the parks and the culture–Madrid’s main charm lies inMadrid itself, i.e., the city and itspeople. Innumerable traces ofthe traditional, typical or castizoMadrid, with its old buildingsand their galleried courtyards,images that might have beenlifted straight from the stage setof some comic opera, co-existwith a city that is easy to getaround, thanks to its broadavenues, boulevards andshopping malls. The patron saintfestivities in honour of San Isidro(St. Isidore) –a ploughman saintwho, according to Gómez de laSerna, “convida a rosquillas”(invites one to have the local,small doughnut-like pastries) inMay of every year– afford amatchless opportunity to discoverthe typical Madrid, including itsfamous bullfighting festival.

Men and women in traditionaldress –chulos or chulapossporting the chequered Madridcap (parpusa) and manolas withan exuberant carnation in theirhair– take part in a colourfulmass fiesta in and around St.Isidore’s Hermitage Chapel andmeadow, site of open-air dances,stalls, booths and picnic areas, ina way that is reminiscent of therevelry of another age.

Madrid is city of outdoor cafés insummer (terrazas) and tavernsand good foodr. It is a city thatnever sleeps, day or night, wherepeople enjoy talking and joking,where people tend to live at afast pace and yet always havetime for friendship, conversationand relaxation.

The open and convivial nature ofthe townsfolk is the best visitingcard of a cosmopolitan citywhere no-one is a foreigner.Within just a few hours of firstsetting foot in its streets,newcomers get the feeling thatthey have lived here all their livesor have finally found their ownparticular niche in the world.The local saying and itstraditional rejoinder run asfollows, “De Madrid al cielo…y un agujerito para verlo”, i.e.,

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that surround the city, it isdifficult to form an accuratepicture of Madrid.

ESSENTIAL MADRID

Exploring its various routes, sure inthe knowledge that a snack bar,restaurant, café or gathering point(a great number of which stillremain) will always be at hand,bears out that Madrid is a city thatpermits visitors to admire thesplendour of the past withoutsacrificing any of the comforts ofthe present. Admittedly, Madrid isits history. Nevertheless Madridtoday, at the outset of the 21st

century, is essentially a vibrant,dynamic metropolis, a bustling city,a permanent backdrop for art andculture from around the world.

A short distance from the so-called “Avenue of Art” -which

leads from the Prado Museum tothe Centro de Arte Reina Sofia viathe Thyssen-Bornemisza Museumand contains one of the finestcollections in the world- streetartists form a living art gallery inthe Plaza Mayor. Coexisting withthe Theatre Royal (Teatro Real)and National Concert Hall, whichtogether host some of the bestopera and orchestralperformances in the world, arecountless live-music venues. Jazz,folk and blues, to say nothing offlamenco, take turns in providingthe theme music for Madrid bynight. This is a city that, in termsof its autumn festival (amongothers) is at a peak of culturalsplendour, with music and dramaas the main attraction. Walkingthe same streets once trodden byCervantes and Quevedo are themost eminent writers working inSpanish today. Indeed, it is by nomeans uncommon to catch sight

Outdoor café in Madrid

San Isidro festivities

Jardines deLas Vistillas

Viaducto

Muralla

Palacio deSanta Cruz

Plaza dela Armería

PlazaProvincia

PlazaSan Miguel

PlazaHerradorres

Plaza deLa Paja

PlazaBiombo

PlazaCruz Verde

PlazaRamales

PlazaSantiago

Plazadel Cordón

Plaza Condede Barajas

PlazaPuerta Cerrada

PlazaGranado

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1 Plaza Mayor

2 San Miguel Market

3 Arco de Cuchilleros

4 St. Michael’s Basilica

5 Convent of Las Jerónimas delCorpus Christi

6 Plaza de la Villa

7 Lujanes Tower

8 Cisneros House

9 Casa de la Villa (City Hall)

10 Abrantes Palace

11 Duke of Uceda’s Palace (orPalacio de los Consejos)

12 Convent of the Holy Sacrament

13 Emir Mohammed I Park

14 La Almudena Cathedral

City tours

From the PlazaMayor to LaAlmudena CathedralThat age-old marketplace andbackdrop for Madrid life, sceneof autos-da-fé, proclamations,bullfights and festivities, thePlaza Mayor (main square) (1) isarguably the ideal meeting orstarting point for any tour of thecapital. While the writer Gómezde la Serna described it as“Spain’s back yard”, AlexandreDumas (Sr.) claimed it had “themost beautiful and best paintedvault” of all the theatres he hadknown, viz., the Madrid sky.Since its inauguration in 1620,the Plaza Mayor has been thesymbol par excellence ofHapsburg Madrid (Madrid de los

Austrias), with thelovely frescoes of

the Casa de laPanadería(bakery) andtheequestrian

statue of Philip III as its mostnoteworthy features.

A total of nine archways affordaccess to this arcaded squareflanked by shops and marquee-shaded outdoor cafés, wherestreet artists continue to lend atouch of the Bohemian Madridfound hereabouts, the Madriddepicted by Benito Pérez Galdos.The Calle de Ciudad Rodrigo(calle; street) leads to thecharming San Miguel Market (2).Walk down Cava de San Miguelto the Arco de Cuchilleros (3).Here, up a flight of stairs, theEl Púlpito Bar and Las Cuevas deLuis Candelas Restaurant conjureup the romantic atmosphere ofeighteenth- and nineteenth-century Madrid, when royaltymight easily cross paths withtough swells and bandits.

The route continues as far as theurban ensemble ofPuerta Cerrada. This,formerly the edge ofan old ravine alongwhich SegoviaStreet now runs,once marked

the boundary of mediaevalMadrid. Continuing down SanJusto Street, you come to thebase of theoriginal curvedfaçade ofSt. Michael’sBasilica (SanMiguel) (4).CallePuñonrostroleads intothe

Plaza Mayor

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structure that, after actingas the Italian Embassy andheadquarters of the Italianbattalions of the InternationalBrigades during the Spanish CivilWar, is now home to the ItalianCultural Institute. Directlyopposite is the Duke of Uceda’sPalace (also called the Palacio delos Consejos) (11), which housesthe Madrid Regional MilitaryHeadquarters. It was built byPhilip III’s favourite, CristóbalGómez de Sandoval, the son ofthe Duke of Lerma, who addedthe Convent of the HolySacrament (SantísimoSacramento) (12) to the palace,with the intention of creating anensemble that would rival theroyal complex formed by theAlcázar and the Convent of theIncarnation. Facing the church isa monument to the victims ofthe assassination attempt thattargeted King Alfonso XIII at thisvery spot on 31 May 1906.

From Emir Mohammed I Park,on the other side of BailénStreet, Madrid drops away anddescends almost to the banksof the Manzanares River.This, the site of the MoorishWalls of Maherit (13) (the cityoriginally founded by the fifthOmayyad Emir of Cordoba),is now a venue for holdingoutdoor shows and concerts insummer. Across the way fromthe park is the entrance to theneo-Gothic crypt of LaAlmudena Cathedral (14),designed by the Marquis ofCubas in 1879. Rising above thecrypt, the rest of the churchwas concluded by FernandoChueca Goitia in the closingyears of the 20th century, thusmaking it an altogethercontemporary cathedralstanding on a site that datesback to the earliest history ofMadrid.

La Almudena Cathedral

Cisneros House

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Plaza del Conde de Miranda, thesite of the cloistered convent of theHieronymite nuns, Las Jerónimas delCorpus Christi (5), better knownasLas Carboneras (by reason of amiraculous image of theVirginMaryfound in a coal yard and donated tothe convent)where a splendid “LastSupper” by Vicente Carducho(Vicenzo Carducci) is on display inthe chancel, and delicious home-made cookies can be purchasedthrough the agency of a turntable.

At this point, Calle del Codoturns sharply and opens out intoMadrid’s “other” town square,the Plaza de la Villa (6), at thecentre of which Philip II’slegendary admiral, Don Álvarode Bazán, continues to presideover the capital’s public life. Itwas here, in the Lujanes Tower(7), the city’s oldest civil buildingand a rare 15th-century exampleof the Mudejar style in Madrid(mudéjar being the term used to

describe the style favoured bythe Moorish minorities), that theFrench king, Francis I, wasimprisoned after being defeatedat Pavía by the EmperorCharles V. What was at one timethe municipal newspaper andperiodicals archive is now hometo the Academy of Moral andPolitical Sciences. Bridged highup by a narrow passage, CisnerosHouse (8) and the Casa de laVilla (City Hall) (9) complete theremaining sides of the square.

On the right, at the lower end ofCalle Mayor, stands the AbrantesPalace (10), a 17th-century

Plaza de la Villa

13

From the RoyalPalace to Puertadel Sol

Madrid’s Royal Palace (PalacioReal) (15) is the starting pointfor this tour. Built over the oldHapsburg fortress, which wasrazed to the ground in 1734, itcombines its Baroque style withthe tradition of Spanish royalresidences. The stairway, ThroneRoom, Hall of Columns, RoyalChapel, and tapestries andpaintings by the likes of Mengs,Goya and Luca Giordano arecomplemented on the exteriorby the Sabatini and Campo delMoro Gardens, Plaza de laArmería (Armoury Square), andthe spectacle of the changing ofthe guard at the main gate. Thebuilding was designed by FilippoJuvara, Juan Bautista Sacchettiand Francisco Sabatini for

Philip V and Ferdinand VI,neither of whom was ever totake up residence here. Thosewho did reign here howeverincluded Charles III, Charles IV,Ferdinand VII, Isabella II,Alfonso XII and Alfonso XIII.

At the behest of Napoleon’sbrother, the unpopular JosephBonaparte I, the Plaza de Oriente(16) was intentionally laid out tokeep possible uprisings at bayfrom the population’s rulers. Forthe equestrian statue of Philip IVthat presides over the plaza, theking’s face was based onsketches by Velázquez, who livedon the square before it wasremodelled. Indeed, no less apersonage than Galileo Galileiwas involved in the project: hewas enjoined to study theproblem of balance posed by thehorse rearing up on its hind legs.

Royal Palace

Iglesia deSan Martín

Antigua Casade Correos


Ayuntamiento

Catedral dela Almudena

Jardinesde Sabatini

JardinesCabo Noval

JardinesLepanto

PlazaSanto Domingo

Plaza delas Descalzas

Plazadel Callao

Plazadel Carmen

PlazaHerradores

Plaza deSan Miguel

PlazaMayor

Plaza deSan Martín

PlazaProvincia

Plaza ArmadaEspañola

Plaza dela Villa

PlazaBiombo

PlazaRamales

PlazaConde de Barajas

Plaza dela Armería

Calle

Fomento

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CalleBola

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Calle Sacramento

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15 Royal Palace

16 Plaza de Oriente

17 Theatre Royal

18 Royal Monastery of theIncarnation

19 Senate House

20 Palace of the Marquis of Grimaldi

21 Convent of Las Reparadoras

22 Plaza de Isabel II

23 Descalzas Reales Monastery24 Church of San Ginés

25 Puerta del Sol

Opposite the palace, on the farside of the square, is the TheatreRoyal (Teatro Real) (17), whichwas revived as an opera house in1997, and has now recovered thesplendour enjoyed by operaunder Isabella II in the 19th

century. Flanking the northernside of the square is the RoyalMonastery of the Incarnation(Real Monasterio de la

Encarnación) (18), a religiouscomplement to the Royal Palace.The reliquary room, scene every27 July of the working of the“miracle” of the liquefaction ofthe blood of St. Pantaleon, isindubitably its most popularattraction, but the gatehouse,

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Hapsburg rule; the chapelssurrounding the cloister, thespectacular Royal Staircase, themock balcony from whichPhilip IV and his family appear tolook down, and the TapestryRoom are just a tiny sampleof the exquisite, secludedatmosphere in which TomásLuis de Victoria, the RoyalChapelmaster, composed someof his most sublime pieces.

The route now crosses ArenalStreet to pass by the popularChurch of San Ginés (24).Standing on the remains of anold mediaeval church and rebuiltafter successive fires in the 17th

and 19th centuries, the churchhouses a magnificent El Greco.Outside, the lane known as thePasaje de San Ginés, with itsChocolatería (selling hotchocolate and the typical fried

pastries known as churros) andsecond-hand bookshops, is anenduring landmark of theMadrid of the Romantic Age.

The last stretch of the streetbrings you to the very heart ofMadrid, the zero kilometre markfor all Spanish roads, the Puertadel Sol (25). A modernequestrian statue of Charles IIIstands opposite the Casa deCorreos, the former post officewhich now acts as the seat of theMadrid Regional Authority andhas featured prominently in agood few episodes of the city’srecent history.

houses the Centre for Politicaland Constitutional Studies.

Stroll down Calle Torija, past theConvent of the Reparadoras (21)–dating from 1782, designed byVentura Rodríguez and intendedto house the Tribunal of the HolyInquisition– as far as the Plaza deIsabel II (22), where a differentfaçade of the Theatre Royallooms into sight. A short walkaway lies theMonasterio de lasDescalzas Reales (Discalced, i.e.,barefoot Carmelites) (23), yetanother of the Spanish Crown’sreligious gems. Founded in the16th century, the monastery istantamount to a condensed“chronicle of Europe” under

Kings’ Room, cloister, paintingsby Ribera, Carreño Miranda andAntonio Pereda, as well asGregorio Fernández’s sculpturesof a “Recumbent Christ” and“Christ tied to the column” areof exceptional calibre.

Immediately behind the Conventof the Incarnation, built on thesite of an old Augustinianconvent, is the Senate House (19)or Upper Chamber of theSpanish Parliament, in which theDebating Chamber and Libraryare the leading sights. To thebuilding’s left, stands the formerPalace of the Marquis ofGrimaldi (20) which wasdesigned by Sabatini and today

Plaza de Oriente. Theatre Royal Royal Monastery of the Incarnation

Senate House

Puerta del Sol

Descalzas Reales Monastery

ROYAL PALACECalle BailénUnderground station(Metro): Óperawww.patrimonionacional.es

From St. Isidore’sChurch to ToledoBridge

Starting in the most typical partof Madrid, at St. Isidore’s Church(San Isidro) (26), this routefollows in the steps of the patronsaint of all Madrileños (the termapplied to the city’s denizens).The retable of the Holy Family bySebastián Herrera, and thechapel of Jesús del Gran Poderare some highpoints of a churchwhich was designed along thelines of Il Gesù in Rome by PedroSánchez, and whose foundationstone was laid by Philip IV.

Close by, is one of the very fewremaining examples ofmediaeval Madrid, i.e., theChurch of St. Peter theOld (or Royal St.Peter’s) (27),

built by Alfonso XI over theerstwhile Morería Mosque. Itsold Mudejar tower was rebuilt inthe 14th century.

From St. Peter’s make your wayto the Plaza de la Paja, the siteof the Bishop’s Chapel (Capilladel Obispo) (28) built in 1518 byFrancisco de Vargas and Inés deCarvajal, and an almost uniqueexample of the transition fromGothic to Renaissance.

At No. 2 Plaza de San Andrés,the former site of the Count ofParedes’ Palace where theworker saint once lived as aservant, is the present-day SanIsidro Museum (29). It houses themiraculous well where the saint

St. Isidore’s

26 St Isidore’s Church

27 Church of St. Peter the Old(or Royal St. Peter’s)

28 Bishop’s Chapel

29 San Isidro Museum

30 Church of St Francis the Great

31 Toledo Gate

32 Toledo Bridge


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Plaza deCascorro

Plaza deLa Paja

PlazaHumilladero

GlorietaPuerta de Toledo

Plaza CampilloMundo Nuevo

PlazaLa Corrala

Plaza Varadel Rey

PlazaCarros

PlazaCebada

PlazaCabestreros

PlazaPuerta Cerrada

Glorietade Embajadores

Calle Colegiata

Duque de Alba

Calle

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Cava Baja

Cava AltaRedondilla

Calle San Francisco

Calle Ángel

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EMBAJADORES

Bishop’s Chapel

saved his son from drowning, aswell as an interesting collectionof palaeontological andarchaeological remains ofMadrid.

From here, the itinerarycontinues down Carrera de SanFrancisco as far as the Church of

19

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

Prado Museum

The Avenue ofArt and Carrera deSan Jerónimo

Distributed over its three floors,the Thyssen-BornemiszaMuseum (33), our starting pointfor this intensive art-filleditinerary, brings together aselect, permanent art collection,which is further enriched byintensive exchange of temporaryexhibitions with leading galleriesaround the world. In 1992, thearchitect Rafael Moneo managedto preserve the neoclassicalfaçade of the formerVillahermosa Palace and yettransform the building into amodern art gallery that holdsone of the world’s finest privatecollections, with over 800

paintings, sculptures, tapestriesand objets d’art, dating from the13th through to the closing yearsof the 20th century.

Just around the corner from theThyssen is the SpanishParliament (Congreso de losDiputados) (34), a 19th-centurystructure with clear Renaissanceechoes, designed by NarcisoPascual y Colomer.

Cross the Plaza de las Cortes andwalk up Calle del Prado to get tothe mansionhouse that is the

Church of St. Francis the Great

St. Francis the Great(San Francisco el Grande) (30).Building on this church ofcathedral-like dimensions beganin 1761, on the site of aFranciscan convent where,legend has it, St. Francisco ofAssis once stayed. In 1776,Sabatini put the finishingtouches to the initial designproduced by the friar-architectFrancisco Cabezas, who hadcertain difficulties with the dome–the fourth largest in the world.This stunning church boasts animportant collection ofpaintings, with Goya’s “SanBernardino de Siena” headingthe list.

The Gran Vía de San Franciscoleads to the Toledo Gate (Puertade Toledo) (31), designed byJoseph Bonaparte. To one side ofthe roundabout (glorieta), theformer central fish market has

been converted into a shoppingand cultural centre known as thePuerta de Toledo Market.

Heading in the direction of theManzanares River, Calle deToledo descends majestically tothe monumental Toledo Bridge(Puente de Toledo) (32). At thecentre of the bridge, constructedby Pedro Ribera in the 18th

century, St. Isidore and his wife,Santa María de la Cabeza, stillbeckon passers-by to continueonwards to the other side ofthe river, to the meadowand Hermitage Chapel ofSan Isidro.

Toledo Gate

21

Parliament

Madrid Athenaeum (35), aregular venue for cultural eventsand home to a large andinteresting portrait gallery. Closeat hand -a short walk along LeónStreet and down to No. 11Cervantes Street- is the Lope deVega House-Museum (36).Also in the immediateneighbourhood is the 17thcenturyChurch and Convent of theTrinitarians (37), where Cervanteslies buried.

The itinerary continues throughthe Plaza de Jesús and alongCalle de Duque de Medinaceli,site of the Church of Jesus ofMedinaceli (38), whichtraditionally enjoys a strong anddevout following amongMadrileños. Diagonally oppositeParliament is the Hotel Palace,which dates from the early 20th

century and maintains theglamour of the grand Europeanhotels, complete with liverieddoormen.

Coming full circle, you get to thePlaza de Cánovas del Castillo,presided over by the NeptuneFountain (39), portraying thegod of the sea resplendent in hischariot. In the adjoining Plaza dela Lealtad, the monument to thefallen is flanked by the classicalStock Exchange building and theelegant Hotel Ritz, built in 1910.Nearby is the Royal Academy ofthe Spanish Language (RealAcademia Española de la Lengua)(40) and the striking Church ofSan Jerónimo el Real (St. Jerome)(41), traditionally the setting forevents of great significance inthe life of Spain’s Bourbonmonarchy.

Heir to the royal collections, thePrado Museum (42) has beenfulfilling its role as an art gallerysince 1818 and is without rival inthe world. It is installed in abuilding that was originallydesigned and constructed in 1785by Juan de Villanueva to act as aMuseum of Natural Sciences. ThePrado, with facilities that havealready been extended as far asLos Jerónimos to allow it todisplay its vast collections, housesmasterpieces by Goya, Velázquez,Murillo, Ribera and Zurbarán. Inaddition, it is unique for itsFlemish and Italian works, the

Puerta de Atocha

Museo Naval

Bolsa

San Antonio delos Alemanes

Parque deEl Retiro

Plaza delEmperadorCarlos V

Plaza dela Lealtad

Red deSan Luis

Plaza delCarmen

Plaza deLavapiés

PlazaAntón Martín

Plaza deSanta Ana

Cal

lede

Hor

tale

za

Desengaño

Bar

co

Cal

leF

uenc

arra

l

San MarcosCalle

InfantasC

alle

deP

elay

o

Caballero de Gracia

Cal

leM

onte

ra

Carm

en

MurciaCalle

Del

icia

s

Calle

Calle de Argumosa

Cal

leBue

navis

taCall

eSali

tre

Calle Cabeza

Calle Calvario

Cal

leAv

eM

aríaLavapiés

C. R

elat

ores

C. E

mbajadores

Tribulete Calle

deValencia

Mesón

deP

aredes

Calle

del

Am

paro

Calle de los Madrazo

Carrera SanJerónimo

Calle de

laCru

zCarretas

Callede

lasHuertas

Calle del Prado

Calle de Moratín

Calle

Echegaray

Calle AlmadénSan Ildefonso

Calle

Santa

Isabel

C. Claudio Moyano Paseo Duque de Fernán Núñez

CA

LLEA

LFO

NS

OX

II

Calle Recoletos

PrimCalle

Calle Almirante

Calle PiamonteCalle

Barquillo

Cal

le

Álvaro

Méndez

Pas

eo

Gravina

Calle

Augusto Figueroa

Calle Zorrilla

CalleReina

C.P

ríncipe

Calle Cervantes

Calle VegadeLope

Calle Santa María

Calle

Fucar

GobernadorCalle

CalleDoctor

Fouq

uet

Calle Montalbán

Calle Antonio Maura

Calle Felipe IV

MagdalenaCalle

C. SanCarlos

C. Tres Peces

Calle

Zurit

a

C. Dr. Piga

Sombrerete

Calle Jardines

Val

verd

e

Cal

le

Calle Espalter

Calle

Moreto

CalleValenzuela

Calle SalustianoOlozaga

Paseo de Argentina

Av. de Méjico

Cal

leM

igue

l Ser

vet

CalleVillanueva

Calle Conde de Aranda

Calle

Calle

Dr.

Cor

tezo

GRAN

VÍA

VALENCIA

RONDA

RONDA ATOCHA

CALLE

ATOCHA

CALLE

ALCALÁ

PASEO

INFANTAISABEL

PR

AD

O

DE

L

PA

SE

OPA

SE

OD

ER

EC

OLE

TOS

DE

CA

LLE

SE

RR

AN

O

PASE

OST

A.M

ª

DE

LAC

ABEZ

A

CHUECA

GRAN VÍA

SOL

EMBAJADORES

ATOCHA

ANTÓNMARTÍN

SEVILLA

BANCODE ESPAÑA

RETIRO

ATOCHA-RENFE

LAVAPIÉS

RECOLETOS

JERÓNIMOS

RECOLETOS

CORTESSOL

33 Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

34 Parliament

35 Madrid Atheneum

36 Lope de Vega House-Museum

37 Church and Convent of theTrinitarians

38 Church of Jesus of Medinaceli

39 Neptune Fountain

40 Royal Academy of the SpanishLanguage

41 Church of San Jerónimo el Real

42 Prado Museum

43 Botanical Gardens

44 Centro de Arte Reina SofíaNational Museum

20

2322

Crystal Palace. Retiro Park

From calle deAlcalá to Retiro Park

At the point where Alcalá Streetbegins, the area around theRoyal Academy of Fine Arts ofSan Fernando (45) is one ofMadrid’s most monumentalspots, dotted with large artisticbuildings, the head offices ofbanks and major companies.Though founded in 1744, it wasnot until 1773 that the Academytook up lodgings in its presentpremises, a former palacedesigned by Churriguera. TheAcademy’s superb art galleryprides itself on its Goya’s and apriceless collection of over 15,000drawings, ranging from Raphaelthrough Rubens, Tiepolo,Velázquez and Rodin, all the wayto Picasso.

On the left-hand side of thisinitial section of Calle Alcalá isthe 17th-century Church of LasCalatravas (46), which features alovely dome and a high altarpiece, posthumously attributedto Churriguera. Marking theend of this particular stretch isthe Metrópolis Building, aparadigm of the entire area,which was erected between1905 and 1911 for La Unión y elFénix Insurance Company, andwhich divides Alcalá from GranVía. Grouped around this sameintersection are St. Joseph’sChurch (San José) (47), theMinistry of Education, and theFine Arts Circle (Círculo de BellasArtes) (48). The latter, whichwas designed by AntonioPalacios and is considered to bethe prime example of art decoin Madrid, is spectacularly

legacy of Spain’s imperial era inEurope. The Museum’s threemain doors are respectivelyguarded by like statues of Goya,Velázquez and Murillo.

To accompany what wasintended to be the Museum ofNatural Sciences, the BotanicalGardens (43) in the Plaza deMurillo are imbued withromanticism and possess aninteresting variety of plantspecies. Running along the farside of these gardens is theincline known as the Cuesta deMoyano, lined with stallsdealing in old and second-handbooks.

Overlooking the Glorieta deCarlos V, but with its entranceon Calle de Santa Isabel, theCentro de Arte Reina SofíaNational Museum (44)completes this art tour. In

addition to its splendidcollection of contemporary art,it also holds a number oftemporary exhibitions. Built onthe site of an old hospital, thecentre combines its eye-catching, avant-garde elevatorshafts with neoclassical lines,thereby converting itself intohallmark of modern Madrid.Picasso’s world-renownedpainting, “Guernica”, is,without doubt, one of thegallery’s most visited exhibits.

THE THREE GREATART GALLERIES

PRADO MUSEUMPaseo del Prado, s/nUnderground station: Banco de

España or Atocha

www.museoprado.es

CENTRO DE ARTE REINA SOFÍANATIONAL MUSEUMSanta Isabel, 52Underground station: Atocha

www.museoreinasofia.es

MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZAPaseo del Prado, 8Underground station:

Banco de España

www.museothyssen.org

Centro de Arte Reina SofíaNational Museum

25

Cibeles Fountain

crowned by a tower andVasallo’s statue of the goddess,Athena Pallas.

Madrid’s symbolic centre andlandmark, the Plaza de Cibeles, isflanked by a series of notablebuildings. These include: theArmy General Headquarters (49),housed in the Buenavista Palace,which dates from 1769; thecountry’s central bank, the Bankof Spain (Banco de España) (50),built along Renaissance lines inthe 19th century; the Palacio delas Comunicaciones (General PostOffice) (51), an early 20th centurydesign by Otamendi andPalacios; and the former LinaresPalace, a late 19thcentury neo-Baroque building which is nowhome to the Spanish-LatinAmerican cultural centre knownas Americas House (Casa deAmérica) (52). Cibeles Fountain(53), designed by VenturaRodríguez and built by RobertoMichel and Francisco Gutiérrez,represents the Earth Mother,Cybele or Sybil.

The Cibeles Fountain is directlyaligned with the Puerta deAlcalá (54), and at night thisshort walk acquires all thegrandeur of a magical stage set.Designed by Francisco Sabatiniand erected in 1778, this gatestands as a reminder that CharlesIII was “Madrid’s best mayor”.Continue down Alfonso XIIStreet: bordering Retiro Park andkeeping the Casón del BuenRetiro (55) as your referencepoint, turn into these royalgardens, originally created forPhilip IV. The oversize hothouseknown as the Crystal Palace(Palacio de Cristal) (56), thepavilion-like Velázquez Palace(57), the Cecilio RodríguezGardens, the artificial lake–presided over by Alfonso XII’shaughty figure– or any of themany paths with their birds anddarting squirrels, are sure totransport you far from the roarof the big city to a bucolic worldwhich functions as a veritablegreen “lung” in Madrid’s urbananatomy.

Monument to Alfonso XII. Retiro Park

45 Royal Academy of Fine Arts ofSan Fernando

46 Church of Las Calatravas

47 St. Joseph’s

48 Ministry of Education and FineArts Circle

49 Army General Headquarters

50 Bank of Spain

51 Palacio de las Comunicacione

52 Americas House

53 Cibeles Fountain

54 Puerta de Alcalá

55 Casón del Buen Retiro

56 Crystal Palace

57 Velázquez Palace

Palaciode Justicia

Museo Naval

BolsaParque deEl Retiro

Glorietadel

Angel Caido


Plaza dela Lealtad

Plazade Colón

PlazaSanta Bárbara

Plaza delas Salesas

Plaza de laVilla de París

PlazaAntón Martín

Plaza deSanta Ana

Cal

lede

Cal

leC

laud

ioCal

leA

rgen

sola

C. G

ral.

Cas

taño

s

Cal

le

de

Hor

tale

zaSan

Mateo

Fuencarral

San MarcosCalle

Infantas

Cal

le

de

Pel

ayo

Caballero de Gracia

Cal

leBue

navis

taCall

eSali

tre

Cabeza

Calvario

Cal

leA

veM

aría



Callede

lasHuertas

Calle del Prado

Calle de Moratín

Calle

Echegaray


Calle

Santa

Isabel


CA

LLEA

LFO

NS

OX

II

Paseo

delE

cuador

Paseo Boliv

ia

Pº de Venezuela

Calle

Calle

Calle Recoletos

PrimCalle

Calle Almirante

PiamonteCalle

Calle

Barquillo

Cal

lede

Cas

telló

CALLEGOYA

Cal

leN

úñez

Mejía

LequericaCalle

de

Calle

Coe

llo

Bal

boa

Farmacia

Calle Gravina

Calle

AugustoFigueroa

Calle Zorrilla

CalleReina

Calle Barceló

C.P

ríncipe

Calle Cervantes

Calle VegadeLope

Calle Santa María

Calle

Fucar

GobernadorCalle

Calle Montalbán

Calle Antonio Maura

Calle Felipe IV

Magdalena

C. Tres Peces

Calle

Zurit

a

C. Sta. Teresa

Santa Brígida

H. Cortés

C. Jardines

Calle Espalter

Calle

Moreto

C. Valenzuela


Paseo de Argentina

Av. de Méjico

C. AlcaláGaliano

Calle

Fernando VI

Calle Belén

CalleVillanueva


Calle

Laga

sca

Jorge Juan

Hermosilla

de

CALLEGÉNOVA

GRAN

VÍA

CALLE

ATOCHA

CALLE

ALCALÁ

PR

AD

O

DE

L

PA

SE

OPA

SE

OD

ER

EC

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TOS

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CA

LLE

SE

RR

AN

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CA

LLE

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LÁZ

QU

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SERRANOCOLÓNTRIBUNAL

CHUECA

ATOCHA

ANTÓNMARTÍN

SEVILLA

BANCODE ESPAÑA

RETIRO

PRÍNCIPE DEVERGARA

RECOLETOS

JERÓNIMOS

JUSTICIA

RECOLETOS

CORTES

24

27



San Plácido



Campodel Moro

Parque de Atenas


Parque dela Montaña

Jardinesde Sabatini

JardinesCabo Noval

JardinesLepanto

Plaza deSanto Domingo

Glorietade Bilbao

Plaza deSan Ildefonso

Red deSan Luis

Plaza delCarmen

Plazadel Callao

Plaza dela Armería

PlazaHerradoresPlaza de

SanMiguel


Plaza deLa Paja

GlorietaRuiz Jiménez

Plaza deSanta Ana

Plaza de lasComendadoras


Plazade Oriente

Plazade Isabel II

Puertadel Sol

Plaza Dosde Mayo

C. Luc

hana

Cal

lede

Hor

tale

za

SanMateo

Mad

era

Calle EspírituSantoTesoro

Calle

Calle dela Palma

Calle DivinoPastor

C. Manuela

Calledel

Pez

C. Jes

úsde

l Vall

e

Calle

CalleLuna

Calle

Silva Cor

rede

ra

Pab

lo

Desengaño

Bar

co

Fuencarral

Caballerode Gracia

Cal

leM

onte

ra

Calle Bola

Calle

Reloj

C.

Leganitos

Calle

Carm

en

PreciadosArenal

C.

dela

Pasa

Sacramento

Bolsa

Concepción Jerónima

Calle Colegiata

Cava Baja

Cava Alta

Redon

dilla

CalleBuen

Suceso

Calle

Quintana

Calle

Tutor

Calle

Martín

de

los

Heros

Cal

leVe

ntur

aR

odríg

uez

Víctor

Pradera

Reyes

Ferraz

Calle

C. R

elat

ores

Carrera San Jerónimo

Calle de

laCru

zCarretas

Calle de las Huertas

Calle

Echegaray

Con

de

Duq

ue

Calle

deA

maniel

Cruz

Santa

Calle

LA

Calle

de

Calle

Calle

Calle

Cal

le

Farmacia

C. Reina

C. A

ltaS

anP

ablo Calle Barceló

Calle

Príncipe

MagdalenaCalle

Calle

Fomento

San Vicente Ferrer

Calle

Churruca

Calle

Larra

H. Cortés

Tudescos

Calle

Malasaña

Calle Jardines

de Marcenado

Calle Montserrat

NoviciadoBernardino

Calle San

Val

verd

e

Cal

le

CalleArrieta

C. Vergara

Santiago

Calle Cadarso

Calle

Arriaza

Calle

ReyFrancis

co

Cal

leLu

isa

Fern

anda

Calle

Evaris

toSan

Migu

el Cal

leM

ártir

esde

Alc

alá

RO

ND

AS

EG

OV

IA

C. F

ernando

deR

ojas

BajaSan

C. Velarde

C. Daoiz

Cal

leS

. Anf

rés

Calle

Calle

Calle

Dr.

Cor

tezo

de

Calle

Calle

Abada

Nuncio

C. ToledoC

alle

GRAN

VÍA

GRAN VÍACUESTA SAN

SAGASTA

CARRANZA

ALBERTO AGUILERA

Calle Segoviade

CALLEATOCHA

CALLE

MAYOR

CALLEALCALÁ

CA

LLED

E

PR

INC

ES

A

CA

LLE

SA

N

BE

RN

AR

DO

BA

ILÉ

N

CA

LLE

VICENTE

SAN BERNARDO

BILBAO

TRIBUNAL

GRAN VÍACALLAO

SANTODOMINGO

PLAZA DEESPAÑA

SOL

ÓPERA

PRÍNCIPE PÍO

TIRSODE MOLINA

ARGÜELLES

SEVILLA

NOVICIADO

VENTURARODRÍGUEZ

UNIVERSIDAD

SOL

PALACIO

58 Caballero de Gracia Oratorio

59 Telefónica Building

60 Plaza de España

61 St. Mark’s Church

62 Temple of Debod

63 Cerralbo Museum

64 Liria Palace

65 Conde Duque Barracks

see the Baroque-style Church ofSt. Mark (San Marcos) (61),designed by Ventura Rodríguez.A monument to Cervantes andDon Quixote stands in themiddle of the square, whichaffords welcome respite in thisbusy part of Madrid. Nearby,the Ferraz Gardens, whicheventually lead into the Parquedel Oeste, and the Temple ofDebod (62), brought stone by

From Gran Víato the Conde DuqueBarracks

As it proceeds along Gran Vía, astreet that goes back to the turnof the twentieth century, thisitinerary passes through one ofMadrid’s leading leisure andentertainment areas, lined withcinemas, theatres, cafés,restaurants and departmentstores. From the start, the streetis flanked on either side by largebuildings. Rising to your left,directly opposite theMuseoChicote bar -a traditional hauntback in the Bohemian Madrid ofAva Gardner and Orson Welles- isthe Caballero de Gracia Oratorio(58). This elegant neoclassicalbuilding designed by Juan deVillanueva in the latter years ofthe 18th century, stands on thestreet of the same name.

Farther on, the TelefónicaBuilding (59), designed in 1929by the American architect,Weeks, was the first skyscraper inMadrid, and marks the end ofRed de San Luis and thebeginning of new stretch ofGran Vía that leads as far asPlaza del Callao. Here, giantcinema hoardings look downfrom stylish buildings, such as thePalacio de la Prensa, influencedby the Chicago School, and theCarrión Building which, likethe Capitol Cinema it houses,dates from the early years ofthe 20th century.

The last leg leads down to Plazade España (60), a squaredominated by two tall buildings,the Edificio España and Torre deMadrid, which commandsensational city views. Beforeentering the Plaza de España, ashort detour is recommended to

Gran Vía

28

stone from Egypt, are a superbvantage point from which to seehow Madrid is expanding. Onthe other side of Calle Ferraz isthe Cerralbo Museum (63), astately 19th-century mansioncontaining an importantcollection of furniture and arttreasures.

Once again the traveller isconfronted by the greatarchitect, Ventura Rodríguez,

since the street that bears hisname leads back to Calle de laPrincesa and the Liria Palace (64),the Duke of Alba’s Madridresidence, designed by him in1780. Behind the palace, theConde Duque Barracks (Cuarteldel Conde Duque) (65), gracedby a fine Baroque portal, nolonger act as military quarters.Instead, the building housesthe Municipal Gallery ofContemporary Art, the MunicipalNewspaper and PeriodicalsArchive (hemeroteca), MunicipalHistorical Archive, a number ofexhibition rooms and othermunicipal departments, and insummer, its quadrangle becomesa venue for evening concertsand shows.

St. Mark’s

Monument to Cervantes andDon Quixote. Plaza de España

Conde Duque Barracks

31

Salamanca District (barrio),designed in the 19th century bythe Marquis of Salamanca.Fashionable boutiques andfurniture shops, art galleries,cafés and offices line thisquarter, with its statelybuildings and spacious avenues

that flow past theDescubrimiento Gardens (69) inthe Plaza de Colón (Colón;Christopher Columbus), flankedby the splendid architecturalgroup formed by the NationalLibrary (70) and NationalArchaeological Museum (71).

Other places ofinterest

THE MADRID OF MALASAÑAAND DOS DE MAYO

To all intents and purposes, therectangle formed by Fuencarral,Carranza and San Bernardo streetsand the area to the rear of GranVía encloses the district whichserved as the setting for thefamed Spanish “scene” (movida)of the 1980s, and which continuesto be one of Madrid’s choicenightlife areas. The Churches ofSt. Placidus (San Plácido), St.Martin (San Martín) and SanAntonio de los Alemanes, theMunicipal Museum (66), theArchitect Ribera Gardens leadingto the Romantic Museum (MuseoRomántico) (67), and the TheatreMuseum, are all concentratedaround the Plaza del Dos deMayo (68), the name of whichcommemorates the townsfolkwho rose up in the insurgencyagainst the Napoleonicinvasion in 1808.

PLAZA DE COLÓN AND THESALAMANCA DISTRICT

Stretching from the Puerta deAlcalá almost all the way toMaría de Molina Street, andcovering the streets runningparallel and perpendicular toCalle de Serrano, is the elegant

Palaciode Justicia

Museo Naval

Bolsa



San Plácido




Jardinesde Sabatini

JardinesCabo Noval

Plaza dela Lealtad

Plazade Colón


PlazaAlonso Martínez

PlazaSanta Bárbara

Plaza delas Salesas



Red deSan Luis

Plaza delCarmen

Plazadel Callao

Plaza dela Armería


SanMiguel

Plaza deSanta Ana



Plazade Oriente

PlazaIsabel II

Cal

leA

rgen

sola

C. G

ral.

Cas

taño

s

Cal

le

de

Hor

tale

za

San

Mateo

Mad

era


Calle

Callede la Palma

Divino Pastor

Calledel

Pez

C. Jes

úsde

l Vall

e

Calle

CalleLuna

Calle

Silva Cor

rede

ra

Pab

lo

Desengaño

Bar

co

Fuencaral

San MarcosCalle

Infantas

Cal

le

de

Pel

ayo

Caballero de Gracia

Cal

leM

onte

ra

Calle Bola

Calle

Reloj

C.

Leganitos

Calle

Carm

en

PreciadosArenal

C.

dela

Pasa

Sacramento

Bolsa

Tutor

Martín

de

los

Heros

Cal

leVe

ntur

aR

odríg

uez

Reyes



Calle de

laCru

zCarretas

Calle del Prado

Calle

Echegaray

CA

LLEA

LFO

NS

OX

II

Calle Recoletos

PrimCalle

Calle Almirante

PiamonteCalle

Calle

Barquillo

Con

deD

uque

Calle

Am

aniel

Mejía

Lequerica

de

Calle

Calle

Cal

le

Calle Orfilia

Farmacia

Calle Gravina

Calle

AugustoFigueroa

Calle Zorrilla

CalleReina

C. A

ltaS

anP

ablo Calle Barceló

C.P

ríncipe

Calle Cervantes

Calle Montalbán

Calle Antonio Maura

Calle Felipe IV

Calle

Fomento

San Vicente Ferrer

Churruca

C.

Larra

C. Sta. Teresa

Santa Brígida

H. Cortés

Tudescos

Calle

Calle Jardines

NoviciadoBernardino

Calle San

Val

verd

e

Cal

le

CalleArrieta

C. Vergara

Santiago

CalleValenzuela


Calle Cadarso

Calle

Arriaza

ReyFrancis

co

Cal

leLu

isa

Fern

anda C. AlcaláGaliano

Calle

Fernando VI

Calle Belén

CalleCalle

BajaSan

C. Velarde

C. Daoiz

Calle

Calle

Callede

Calle

Calle

Abada

CALLEGÉNOVA

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Plazade España

66 Municipal Museum

67 Romantic Museum

68 Dos de Mayo Square

69 Descubrimiento Gardens

70 National Library

71 National ArchaeologicalMuseum

72 Americas Museum

73 Segovia Bridge

74 San Antonio de la Florida

Plaza de ColónSalamanca District

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Lope de Vega House andConvent of the Trinitarians.Close by, in the Plaza de SantaAna, the statue of Calderóncontemplates the Teatro Español,whose façade recalls some of thecountry’s most celebratedplaywrights. This was also thesite of the Corral de la Pachecaand Café del Príncipe, haunts ofthe intellectual circle known asthe Peña el Parnasillo -a symbolof literary Madrid in the 19th

century- which numbered Larra,Espronceda, Ventura de la Vegaand Mesonero Romanos amongits members.

The Madrid of Benito PérezGaldós still survives in theenvirons of the Plaza Mayor.Similarly, in and around thePuerta del Sol it is still possible towitness scenes that might havebeen taken straight from Valle-Inclán’s play, “Luces deBohemia”. In his book “Lasagrada cripta del Pombo”,Ramón Gómez de la Serna heapspraise on the café that used tobe on Carretas Street and formany years was the paragon ofall Madrid cafés, genuine circlesof discussion (tertulias) andpower, some of which, like theCafé Comercial on the Glorietade Bilbao or the Café Gijón onPaseo de Recoletos, continue thetradition to this day.

Here in Madrid, the writers ofthe Generation of 98 –Azorín,

Baroja, Unamuno, Machado andValle-Inclán– passed the torch tothe Generation of 27, all ofwhom were based at theResidencia de Estudiantes onPinar Street. It was here too thatJuan Ramón Jiménez, PabloNeruda and, in particular, thegroup comprising Lorca, Alberti,Dámaso Alonso, Gerardo Diego,Vicente Aleixandre, Luis Buñueland Salvador Dalí, left their mark.

Dotted about the city aresculptures that honour writers ofall eras and from all parts ofSpain who at some time or othermade Madrid their literarycentre.

Café Gijón

As a general rule, museums andart galleries are open fromTuesday to Saturday, morningsand afternoons, on Sundays andPublic Holidays during themorning only, and close onMondays. For fuller informationkindly consult the nearesttourist information office.

and La Almudena Cathedral.Moving upstream, through parksand groves of trees, you get tothe district of San Antonio de laFlorida (74). The church’soutstanding features include itstwin chapels, housing theremains of Goya and hisspectacular frescoes.

LITERARY MADRID

Madrid is a city where it is hardto find a single spot that doesnot have its own literaryreference, ranging from majorsymbols such as the NationalLibrary or Royal Academy of theSpanish Language, to culturalcentres such as the Fine ArtsCircle, Atheneum, CentroCultural de la Villa or theeternally restless university hallsof residence. What is more,history is at hand to confirm it.

The Golden Age of Spanishliterature is present in theso-called literary quarter,delimited by the Plazas ofCánovas del Castillo and Carlos V.Góngora, Quevedo and Tirso deMolina once walked the streethereabouts, not far from the

THE FARO DE MONCLOA ANDAMERICAS MUSEUM

In the vicinity of the universitycampus at the north-westernapproach to Madrid, theMoncloa district combines urbanexpansion, large parkland areas–from the Parque del Oesteacross to the Dehesa de la Villa–with a motley, irrepressibleuniversity atmosphere. From theFaro de Moncloa (faro;lighthouse), which is over theway from the Americas Museum(Museo de América) (72), theviews are extraordinary andreveal Madrid as truly being the“green” capital of Europe. TheTriumphal Arch and Herrerian-style Air Force GeneralHeadquarters are architecturalpoints of interest in a districtdominated by students.

FROM SEGOVIA BRIDGE TO SANANTONIO DE LA FLORIDA

The Puente de Segovia (73) isthe oldest of the city’s bridgesover the Manzanares River.Designed by Juan de Herrera inthe late 16th century, it affordsthe best view of the Royal Palace

Segovia Bridge

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paintings that the artist collectedover his lifetime.

General Martínez Campos, 37Underground station:Rubén Dario

Royal Academy of Fine Arts ofSan FernandoThe Academy houses one of thefinest collections of the 16th- to19th-century Spanish School. Inaddition there are drawings,sculpture and porcelain.

Alcalá, 13Underground station: Sol or Sevilla

Exhibition rooms

National LibraryFounded by Philip V in 1712,the library acquired most of itsvaluable old books in the 19th

century. It holds exhibitions,lecture cycles and bookpresentations.

Paseo de Recoletos, 22Underground station: Colón

Fine Arts CircleAntonio Palacios’ building hasbeen officially declared a nationalmonument. The Círculo de BellasArtes devotes itself to holdingexhibitions and cultural events ofthe highest order.

Alcalá, 42.Underground stations:Sevilla or Banco de España

Juan March FoundationPrivate institution createdin 1955 by the financier,Juan March, to act as a modern

Sorolla Museum

cultural centre.Castelló, 77Underground station:Núñez de Balboa

Classical music

National Concert Hall (AuditorioNacional de Música)This building, designed by thearchitect, José María García deParedes, is home to the SpanishNational Orchestra & Choir(Orquesta y Coro Nacionales deEspaña).

Príncipe de Vergara, 146Underground station:Cruz del Rayo

Zarzuela TheatreBuilt in the 19th century at theinstance of composers such asBarbieri, Gaztambide and Arrieta,this theatre sets the standard forstaging zarzuela and otherSpanish musical genres.

Art and culture

Museums and artcentres

Hermitage Chapel of San Antoniode la FloridaChapel in which the world-renowned Spanish painter,Francisco de Goya, lies buried.The dome was designed by theartist himself.

Glorieta San Antonio de laFlorida, 5. Undergroundstation: Príncipe Pío

Descalzas Reales MonasteryCollection of paintings, tapestries,religious images, relics.

Plaza de las Descalzas Reales, 3Underground station:Sol or Ópera.

Royal Monastery of theIncarnationPainting and sculpture datingfrom the 16th to 17th centuries.

Plaza de la Encarnación, 1Underground station: Ópera

Americas MuseumAmerican archaeology andethnography, from prehistoryuntil the present. Valuablecollection of pre-Columbian art.

Avda. de los Reyes Católicos, 6Underground station: Moncloa

National Archaeological MuseumValuable archaeological piecesfrom all over Spain, along withcoins and ceramics.

Serrano, 13. Undergroundstations: Serrano or Colón

Waxworks (Museo de Cera) Waxfigures of famous personalitiesdown the ages, set againstfaithfully re-created backdrops.

Plaza de ColónUnderground station: Colón

Natural Sciences MuseumPermanent Exhibition of NaturalSciences.

José Gutierrez Abascal, 2Underground station: NuevosMinisterios or Gregorio Marañón

Municipal MuseumHoused in an old hospice built byPedro de Ribera, the museum is afine example of Baroque civilarchitecture. Different collectionsof prints, paintings, drawings,porcelain, coins, medals andphotographs, connected in someway with Madrid.

Fuencarral, 78Underground station: Tribunal

Sorolla MuseumHouse-Museum that displaysworks by Joaquín Sorolla and

Municipal Museum

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Teatro María GuerreroCentro Dramático Nacional.Calle Tamayo and Baus, 4Underground stations: Banco deEspaña, Chueca and Colón

Special events held in the cityinclude a renowned AutumnFestival, an Alternative TheatreFestival and a Dance Festival.During the summer, a series ofopen-air concerts are scheduled aspart of the “Los Veranos de laVilla” cycle.

Cinema

While Madrid’s two main cinemaareas are on and around Gran Vía(Callao and Plaza de EspañaUnderground stations) and Callede Fuencarral (BilbaoUnderground station), there are a

number of cinemas in other partsof the city and the suburbs.Cinemas in the Plaza de Españaarea screen subtitled films in theoriginal version. Likewise, theFilmoteca Nacional (National FilmInstitute) holds original versioncycles, with subtitles orsimultaneous translation, at theDoré Cinema (calle de SantaIsabel, 3; Antón MartínUnderground station). 3-D moviesare shown at Imax Madrid(Parque Tierno Galván; MéndezÁlvaro Underground station).

Entertainment guides listing films,times and cinemas can be found inthe appropriate section of all masscirculation dailies, which usuallypublish leisure supplements onFriday. There are also specialistpublications that carry informationon all shows and events takingplace in Madrid each week.

Teatro Español

Jovellanos, 45Underground station:Banco de España or Sevilla

Teatro MonumentalHome base of the Spanish Radio& Television Orchestra (Orquestade la Radio Televisión Española -RTVE).

Atocha, 65Underground station:Antón Martín

Theatre Royal (Teatro Real)Since the Teatro Real wasrefurbished and restored asMadrid’s Opera House in 1997, itsprogramme of operas, recitals,concerts, zarzuelas and ballet hascome to epitomise the wide rangeof culture on offer in Madrid.

Plaza de OrienteUnderground station: Ópera

Night live-musicvenues

Sala ClamoresA “must” for all leading jazzbands and an occasional venuefor singer-songwriters and bluesgroups.

Alburquerque, 14Underground station: Bilbao

Casa PatasThis is the night spot for liveflamenco.

Cañizares, 10Underground station:Antón Martín

Café CentralOne of the capital’s jazz Meccas.

Plaza del Ángel, 10Underground station: Sol orAntón Martín

In addition to the above, there areinnumerable nightspots featuringflamenco acts, restaurants withfloor shows and live music, concerthalls, nightclubs and places todance to live bands. Madrid alsohosts annual Jazz and FlamencoFestivals.

Theatre

Bellas ArtesMarqués de Casa Riera, 2Underground station:Banco de España

CalderónAtocha, 18Underground station:Tirso de Molina

Centro Cultural de la VillaPlaza de ColónUnderground station: Colón

EspañolPríncipe, 25Underground station: Sol orAntón Martín

Infanta IsabelBarquillo, 24Underground station:Banco de España

Teatro ClásicoEmbajadores, 9Underground station: La Latina

Giordano, and the vestry andchapterhouses, with paintings byTitian, El Greco, Ribera, Velázquezand Tintoretto.

In the palace area, there is asurprisingly stark contrast betweenthe spartan-like austerity of PhilipII’s quarters –with notable portraitsby Sánchez Coello and Pantoja dela Cruz– and the sheer luxury ofthe Bourbon palace of Charles IIIand Charles IV –decorated withrich tapestries by Goya, Bayeu andCastillo. The Throne Room, Libraryand chamber where King Philip IIdied in September 1598, completethe tour through this monumentalcomplex.

In the grounds of El Escorial, youcan also visit the pleasure palacesknown as the Casita del Príncipeand Casita del Infante, designedby Juan de Villanueva forCharles IV and Prince Gabriel

respectively. The “Sillade Felipe II”, a natural seat

formed in the rocks, and theHerrería Woods form a sceniccounterpoint to a town thatboasts a long cultural tradition,complete with market, cafés andlocal handicrafts. Here too,Madrid’s Complutense Universityholds summer courses, intendedto bring universal knowledge tostudents through the medium ofparticipants actively involved inthe decision-making process.

The return trip to Madrid affordsthe chance to compare theimperial dreams of Philip II againstthat other dream nurtured byGeneral Franco in the Spain of the20th century, viz., the Valle de losCaídos.

Side-tripsthrough theregion

Monastery ofSan Lorenzode El Escorial,La Herrería andValle de los Caídos

Situated 50 kilometres (30 miles)north-west of Madrid on the A-6motorway, theMonastery of SanLorenzo de El Escorial is the purestexample of the heart of Castileover which Philip II ruled his vastempire. The style of thismonumental complex, begun byJuan Bautista de Toledo andfinished by Juan de Herrera in1563, came to exert a stronginfluence on many other SpanishHapsburg buildings. Apart fromthe splendour of its fourteencourtyards, one thousand doorsand two thousand windows it hasacted, as a Pantheon of the Kingsand Queens of Spain, fromCharles I up until the present.

The main façade, facing west,features three entrance ways. Themost important of these, crownedby a pediment with the figure ofSt. Lawrence and the royal coat ofarms of Philip II, leads into thePatio de los Reyes (Courtyard ofthe Kings). This, in turn, disclosesthe spectacular portal of thebasilica, on which David andSolomon -in the centre- presideover the cortège of the six kingsof Judea who tower over thecourtyard. The basilica’s groundplan is in the shape of a Greekcross, with a nave and two aisles.The dome measures ninety-twometres (301 ft.) and was modelledon that of St. Peter’s at theVatican. The interior has frescoesby Luca Giordano and LucaCambiasso, a magnificentaltarpiece by Juan de Herrera,royal oratories, and cenotaphs toPhilip II and the Emperor Charles V.

The cloister and Patio de losEvangelistas connect the basilicato the monastery. Special mentionshould be made here of the mainstaircase by Gian Battista Castello,the vault with frescoes by Luca

Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial

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interior and the sea), and thefanciful Casa del Labrador.

From May to October, the so-called Strawberry Train (Tren de laFresa) follows the 19th-centuryrailway line and, in a pleasant tripthat takes a little under an hour,covers the distance betweenMadrid and Aranjuez. For thosewho prefer to go by road,however, the route continues asfar as the Mar de Ontígola, a damwith its ecological footpath andbird observatory, near Oreja Castle,where the Military Order ofSt. James (Santiago) had its firstconvent

After passing throughVillaconejos, the centre of a richmelon-growing area where thereis even a melon museum, and –ifyou feel inclined- making a shortdetour to take an ecological strollalong the Laguna de San Juan,the itinerary moves onwards toChinchón, with its slogan of“plaza, castillo y mesón” (square,castle and tavern). The town’soutstanding feature is its stunning16th-century Plaza Mayor, whichhas served as the stage-set forfilms such as “Around the Worldin 80 days” and Orson Welles’“Chimes at Midnight”: 234balconies (called claros by thelocals) overlook a square whichhas been a marketplace, the sceneof mystery plays and the settingfor an ancient form of bullfightingusing lances, and which is still

used today as a bullring andvenue for all manner of shows.Sights worth seeing include: theChurch of the Assumption, whichwas built between the 16th and17th centuries, and has a Goya,attesting to the fact that theartist spent considerable periodsof time here in the companyof his brother, the chaplain;St. Augustin’s Convent(today a Tourist Parador);and the castle.

The vineyards lining the road fromChinchón are a sure sign that,apart from its 18th-centurybuildings, Ulpiano Checa Museumand 16th-century fortress-church ofSt. Mary Major (Santa María laMayor), good wineries await inColmenar de Oreja. The town’sjewel, however, is the lovely PlazaMayor, a typical two-tier Castiliansquare of superb proportions builtfrom the local stone used in anumber of other Madrid

Chinchón Parador

the two wings of the presentRoyal Palace built over theremains of Philip II’s Lodge,destroyed by fire in 1655. CharlesIV put the finishing touches to thewhole with the Jardín del Príncipeand Casa del Labrador.

The stairway, Throne, Porcelain andMoorish Rooms are some of thechief attractions of this sumptuouspalace. The east overlooks theFrench-style Parterre Garden, withthe late 18th-century HerculesFountain as its centrepiece. Headfor the Jardín de la Isla, whereplants, statues and gushing waterjets make for a magic, fairy-taleatmosphere. On the site ofFerdinand VI’s orchard-garden,Charles IV charged Villanueva todesign the adjacent Jardín delPríncipe, now home to the FalúasMuseum (testimony to Spaindream of a link between the

Royal Palace ofAranjuez and TownSquares of Chinchónand Colmenar de Oreja

The Royal Residence of Aranjuez(an officially declared WorldHeritage Cultural Landscape)stands on the River Tagus, 47kilometres (30 miles) south ofMadrid via the A-4. On a spot thatthe Catholic monarchs, Isabellaand Ferdinand had used as aretreat, Juan de Herrera built theRoyal Lodge (Cuarto Real) andBotanical Gardens for Philip II,taking advantage of the mildnessof the climate in the river valley. Inthe 18th century, as a token ofgratitude for the town’s supportof his cause in the War ofSuccession, the Bourbon King,Philip V, moved his court toAranjuez. His son Charles III had

Aranjuez Gardens

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was to have its own charter, policeand gaol, and in the years thatfollowed, Calderón, Quevedo,Lope, St. John of the Cross (SanJuan de la Cruz), St. Ignatius ofLoyola and Jovellanos were alldestined to study here. Its brillianttrajectory was cut short in 1836when the University was moved toMadrid, from which it did notreturn until 1968, coinciding withthe city centre’s designation as anHistorical Artistic Ensemble.

The Colegio Mayor de SanIldefonso, built by Rodrigo Gil deHontañón from 1541 to 1553, is asuperb example of the Plateresquestyle (plata denoting the style’sresemblance to silver filigree) andhas become a symbol synonymouswith the University. Moving inside,be sure to see the Santo Tomás deVillanueva Quadrangle (patio), thePatio Trilíngüe (Three LanguagesQuadrangle where Latin, Greek,and Hebrew were taught), theGreat Hall and the magnificentlecture podium. Monuments toCisneros and Nebrija, and theformer’s imposing tomb are to befound in the San Ildefonso Chapel.The Jesuit Colegio Máximo,Colegio de San Francisco de Paulaand Carmen Calzado building,among others, form the impressivecomplex of university centreswhich today house the differentfaculties.

Important though its universitymay be, Alcalá de Henares is

much more. Shining with a lightof its own is St. Justus’Cathedral (Catedral Magistral, atitle conferred upon collegiatechurches whose canons were alsoUniversity professors –magister).This Cathedral, where the remainsof the child martyrs Justus andPastor are venerated, was rebuiltby Cardinal Cisneros in the 16th

century and features a beautifulportal containing elements LateGothic and Plateresque. TheArchbishop’s Palace, designed byCovarrubias, has a Renaissancefaçade of note. Other sightsinclude several sections of the oldtown walls, as well as the Madrede Dios and San BernardoConvents. In today’s busy, moderncity, this ensemble renders itpossible to recapture all thecharm and magic of one ofthe foremost examples ofthe Renaissance.

El Pardo Palace andMontes de El Pardo

Although practically annexed tothe city of Madrid now, theEl Pardo district formed part of20th-century Spanish history. Formore than forty years, GeneralFranco controlled Spain’s destinyfrom El Pardo Palace. In the midstof this magnificent holm-oakforest, the largest in Europe,populated by wild boar, roe deer,common deer and birds of everykind, stands the Zarzuela Palace,

monuments, such as the Palace ofAranjuez and La AlmudenaCathedral.

Alcalá de Henares

Officially declared a WorldHeritage Site in 1998, Alcalá deHenares, lying 20 miles fromMadrid on the A-2 highway, stilldisplays all the splendour of itsrich past as a model Renaissanceuniversity city. Alcalá, thebirthplace of Cervantes, keepsthe memory of the world-famousauthor of “Don Quixote” alivein a 16th-century House-Museum.Furthermore it is the city ofNebrija, who penned the first

Spanish grammar, and –aboveall– a reflection of CardinalCisneros’ innovative Christianhumanist vision.

Alcalá, which first appeared as anIberian settlement known asIplacea and then became theRoman city of Complutum,received its present name of“Al-Kala en-Har” (castle or citadel)under the Moors. Alfonso VIIretook the city in 1129, and in1293 Sancho IV founded theEstudios Generales, the forerunnerof the future university. The firstacademic course imparted byCisneros’ university took place in1508. The institution was to comedirectly under the king’s purview,

Façade of the University of Alcalá de Henares

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El Pardo Palace

its zenith in the 15th century, whenit paid allegiance to theMendozas. Completing a visit tothe walled Medieval Quarter,which includes the Clock Tower(Torre del Reloj), Church of SantaMaría del Castillo and Plaza deArmas -now transformed into abullring- are the views to be hadof the town and its moat-likeriver, as well as a somewhatunexpected Picasso Gallery, withsixty of the artist’s works collectedby his friend Eugenio Arias, anative of these parts.

Before continuing, it is well worthyour while -time permitting- tomake a side-trip from Buitrago tosee the magnificent MontejoBeech Tree Grove inMontejo de laSierra, and the upper reaches ofthe Jarama River, characterised byscenic mountain villages andreservoirs. Otherwise, the originalitinerary goes, as planned, viaVillavieja del Lozoya, San Mamés,a village with a splendid twenty-metre high waterfall an hour’swalk away, Navarredonda andGargantilla del Lozoya, to theintersection with the M-604. From

the crossroads, the route thencontinues onwards to Rascafría,passing through Lozoya which,with its emblasoned houses and16th-century church, lies alongsideLa Pinilla Dam.

You pass Alameda del Valle andOteruelo del Valle on the left andeventually come to thepicturesque mountain village ofRascafría, a departure point formany outings in the area, thanksto its location at the foot of theregion’s highest peaks: Mt.Peñalara –2,428 metres (justunder 8,000 ft.)– and Mt. Cabezasdel Hierro –2,383 metres (7818ft.). From here, one can eithercontinue up to the NavacerradaPass or complete the circle byreturning to Madrid viaMiraflores and Canencia. A“must” before going back,however, is a visit to El PaularMonastery, founded by John I.Highlights include the Plateresqueportal, 16th-century cloister, churchdoor attributed to Juan Guas andhigh altar piece. Adjoining themonastery, Henry III’s handsomepalace is now used as a hotel.

Paular Monastery

is one of the highlights of any avisit to the Montes de El Pardo.The suburb of El Pardo, which liesalong the Manzanares River, is asmall village from which differenttrails lead off to outdoor eatingspots, the Quinta Palace and theheart of the woods.

Lozoya Valley andEl Paular Monastery

The Laguna Grande and Lagunade los Pájaros are both glaciallakes lying in the bowl of asizeable fertile valley wherenature has combined with historyto form one of the most singularareas in the Madrid Region. Infact, the tour through the LozoyaRiver Valley, the source ofMadrid’s drinking water for thelast 150 years, commences at thefoot of the valley, namely, at thevillage of Buitrago de Lozoya, onthe Madrid–Burgos road. ProbablyCeltic in origin, the town reached

the permanent residence of theSpanish Royal Family.

A string of sports and leisure clubs,and numerous restaurants servinggood food and game line theroad, which winds through therolling countryside that hastraditionally been a royal huntingground. The Emperor Charles Vand Philip II were frequentoccupants of the Pavilion ofEnrique el Doliente, built in 1405and transformed by Juan de Morainto a palace for Philip III, after afire had destroyed the oldbuilding. Murals by Bayeu andMaella and rich tapestries from theRoyal Tapestry Factory adorn thiswell-proportioned palace, whereKing Alfonso XII died. Today, it isused as accommodation forforeign dignitaries paying officialvisits to Spain.

Gregorio Fernández’s movingcarving of the recumbent Christ inthe Holy Christ Hermitage Chapel

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Specialties made throughout thecountry’s rich gastronomicgeography are easily come by. Itis no coincidence that Madrileñosclaim to have the best fish andseafood, plus the choicest meat,in Spain. Indeed, some of thecity’s best restaurants are Basque,Galician, Asturian or Andalusian.

Here, it is only right to add that,along with the range of“domestic” food on offer, therehas been an upsurge in thevariety and quality of restaurantsserving foreign cuisine –fromChinese to European, LatinAmerican, and Arab.

Shopping

Large department stores andmegastores specialising in CDs,books and videos can be found inand around the Puerta del Sol, onPrincesa and Goya Streets or alongthe Paseo de la Castellana, as wellas in all the major shopping mallson the city outskirts. The mostselect fashion boutiques, jewellery,footwear, furniture and gift shopsof all kinds are to be found in theSalamanca, Salesas and ChuecaDistricts.

Keep your eyes peeled, and inthe Old Quarter of Madrid it isstill possible to come acrossnumerous traditional shopswhich have managed to survivefor years, or even centuries, andwhich still have a clientele that

ensures theircontinuity. Shopssellingespadrilles, rope,hats and religiousobjects are locatedaround the Plaza Mayor,where shopping stillretains the flavour ofold. The same can besaid of Madrid’s streetmarket parexcellence, the Rastro, thepopular Sunday morning open-air flea-market (extending fromTirso de Molina, Cascorro and LaLatina, as far down as Embaja-dores), where anything andeverything is bought, sold andbartered at outdoor stalls andcolourful local shops.

Madrid is also a good place topurchase art and antiques. Theart galleries which tend tocongregate in the SalamancaDistrict, Calle Barquillo and thearea around the Centro de ArteReina Sofía are a true reflectionof the worldwide importance ofSpanish art, past and present. Themodern “art supermarkets”provide an outlet for works byyoung and upcoming as well asbetter-established artists. Inaddition, a wide range ofantiques can be found in theSalamanca District, Puerta deToledo Market or any of thepermanent shops in and aroundthe Rastro. Coin- and stamp-collecting have their “GHQ” inthe Plaza Mayor, the scene every

Leisure andentertainment

Local cuisine

For centuries, Madrid has beenfamed for its good food.The capital’s nouveau cuisinesuccessfully manages to producea menu that combines typicallyMadrid dishes with painstakinglyprepared domestic andinternational recipes. Two of thelocal highlights are callos (tripe)and cocido madrileño (Madrid-style stew), a tasty stockpot ofchickpeas and vegetablesenriched with meat and sausage,which calls for a veritable ritewhen eaten. Other dishes, such asbesugo al horno (baked sea-bream) or cod (bacalao) in itsmany guises, compete withT-bone and fillet steak(chuletones and solomillos) andthe Castilian sopas de ajo (soupscontaining garlic, paprika, egg,bread, ham and sausage).

A good way to get to knowMadrid food is to visit some ofthe innumerable bars that linethe city streets and outlyingareas, and serve the famoussnack-like servings (tapas) andsmall portions of selected foods(raciones). Indeed, “ir de tapeo”,stopping at different bars insearch of their respectivespecialties, is an inveteratecustom among Madrileños,

who are given to accompanyingtheir food with generousamounts of beer or wine, be itlocal or from another region.Tortilla de patatas (Spanishomelette), sausage and pressedmeats, pickles and all types ofstews are served along with verytraditional tapas, such asentresijos and gallinejas (friedlamb offal and tripe), oreja (pig’sear) or the humble mushroom.

Special mention must be made ofthe local sweets and desserts,which are often linked todifferent festivities during theyear. A breakfast of churros andporras (fried pastries) can be hadat any time of year, but atChristmas time turrón (a nougat-like sweetmeat) and mazapán(marzipan) reign supreme.During Easter week, torrijas(sweet fritters) and huesos desanto (“saint’s bones”, amarzipan-based pastry) aretraditional fare. The Feast of SanIsidro brings barquillos (wafers)and the doughnut-like rosquillas,while another favourite,preferably in winter, are thedelicious buñuelos de viento(round cream-filled fritters).

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Yet Madrid’s best night spectacletakes place in its streets. Except inthe depth of winter, theprevailing good weather meansthat Madrileños can ventureoutdoors at the slightestopportunity, going from one barto the next, between dinner anda concert, or between dates atsome fashionable nightspot.

In such cases, there is a wide andvaried range of music on offer,whether recorded -with differentvenues specializing in differentstyles- or live -with rock clubs,singer-songwriters and jazz.

Festivities

Christmas time in Madrid has aspecial flavour, with the typicalChristmas market in the PlazaMayor, the New Year’s Evecelebration in the Puerta del Soland all the hustle and bustle ofChristmas shopping. At this timeof year, the fairy-tale decorationstransform the city into a fantasticlight show. The traditionalprocession of the Three Magi(Cabalgata de Reyes) takes placeon 6th January.

With each passing year the MadridCarnival has grown in terms ofparticipants and onlookers to thepoint where it has become a verypopular celebration, outstandingfor the imaginativeness of thecostumes and the sheer numberof scheduled events.

The Region’s festivities, centredon 2nd May, are a foretaste of theoutdoor dances and spectacles tocome on 15th May, the feast dayof Madrid’s patron saint, SanIsidro. An outdoor pilgrimage(romería) sees thousands ofpeople gathering at St. Isidore’sHermitage Chapel and meadow,as well as the holding of theworld’s most important bullfightfestival. Organ grinders, sugary“rosquillas”, and typicallydressed chulos and manolasmake for a colourful fiestawith a deeply traditionalatmosphere.

On St. Anthony’s day, 13th June,at the Hermitage Chapel ofSan Antonio de la Florida downby the Manzanares riverside,marriageable young girls seekingsuitors continue the seamstresses’tradition of depositing thirteenpins in the baptismal font in thehope of finding favour withthe saint.

August is the month whentraditional castizo Madrid takesto the streets for the festivities ofSt. Cayetano, St. Lawrence andthe Virgin of La Paloma, withprocessions, open-air dances andpavement cafés open until lateinto the night.

Other long-standing festivalsare held in the Madrid Region,such as the Chinchón PassionPlay, the Romería de laVirgen de Gracia in San Lorenzo

Outdoor café on Paseo de Recoletos

Sunday of a market under thearcades. Over the course of theyear, booklovers can lookforward to a number of regularevents in Madrid, such as theBook Fair in Retiro Park, at theend of May and early June, andthe Old and 2nd-hand Book Fairon the Paseo de Recoletos, at thebeginning of May. There are alsolarge, specialised bookshopsscattered throughout the city,together with the old andantique book dealers, whoseshelves are stocked with genuinetreasures for the collector.

Nightlife

Going out at night is a way of lifein a city that never sleeps, wherethe customs of night owls seemto merge seamlessly with thoseof early risers. Given that lunch inMadrid is eaten late in the day(usually at about 2:30 p.m.), itfollows that dinner at arestaurant can often last untilmidnight, after which the city’sinnumerable attractions liewaiting to be enjoyed, with manynight spots remaining open tillwell into the small hours.

Apart from cinemas, clubs andshows of every hue and colour,Madrid nightlife tends to be athing of bares de copas, whichtend to congregate in a fewspecific areas. The pedestrianprecinct from Huertas Street toPlaza de Santa Ana, is one of theliveliest of these “strips”. Thesame can be said of the AlonsoMartínez, Bilbao and Plaza deSanta Bárbara area, whichpractically merges with that ofMalasaña, in the streets leadingoff from Plaza del Dos de Mayo.Moncloa and Argüelles arefrequented by a somewhatyounger, university crowd.The Castellana, Recoletos andPrado boulevards are likewisedotted with fashionable spots,which in the hot months multiply,thanks to the appearance of thepopular outdoor terrazas whichhave become such a symbol ofthe Madrid summer season.At this time of year too,Paseo del Pintor Rosales turnsinto a parade of pavement cafésand marquees where onlythe sea breeze is missing; in itsplace, there is the cool fragrancewafting in from the Parquedel Oeste.

50

Similarly, the Madrid Popular andSan Silvestre VallecanaMarathons are races with a bigfollowing. The same can be saidabout the final stage of eachedition of the Tour of SpainCycle Race.

The region has close on onehundred outdoor sports facilities,over a hundred tennis clubs and ascore or more of golf courses, inaddition to any number ofmunicipal sports centres. Thereare also major skiing facilities:less than an hour’s drive away arethe ski resorts of Valdesquí –atCotos, with 22 kilometres of skiruns– and Navacerrada, at theNavacerrada Pass, with 10kilometres of pistes.

Theme and otherparks

Completing its leisure andentertainment facilities, Madridboasts: three aquatic parks, i.e.,Aquasur, Aquamadrid andAquópolis; a Zoo Aquarium,which is one of the world’sforemost zoos, in terms not onlyof the number of differentspecies and animals, but also ofits constant work in the fields ofresearch, conservation,

Golf course

reproduction and education; ananimal safari park (SafariMadrid); and the Fun Fair (Parquede Atracciones), with more thanforty rides catering to all tastesand concerts in summer.

Faunia is a biological nature park,where fauna and flora combinewith the very latest,environment-friendly technologyto create different natural eco-systems. Warner Bros. MovieWorld, one of the mostspectacular theme parks in theworld and the largest in Europe,reproduces the fantasy world ofWarner Brothers films with aseries of attractions spread over a250-hectare plot, located nearthe town of San Martín de laVega and easily accessible byroad or rail.

de El Escorial, and the historicAranjuez mutiny (motín).

Trade Fairs

Madrid’s status as the capital ofSpain has made it the traditionalvenue for national andinternational trade fairs andconventions, with an intenseyear-round schedule.

The Juan Carlos I Showgrounds(Parque Ferial) cover an areamarked by trade-fair pavilions,modern office buildings and theMunicipal Convention Centre,plus two hotels and a large park.Being strategically located andwell connected by Underground,the showgrounds are easily andreadily accessible from BarajasInternational Airport and themajor train junction of ChamartínRailway Station. In the Casa deCampo, a handful of regionalrestaurants and pavilions are areminder that this once servedas the showground site. Indeed,certain trade fairs are stillheld here.

The International Tourism Fair(Feria Internacional del Turismo -FITUR), held early in the year, isone of the best showcases ofworld tourism. ARCO, held in

February, is an internationalbarometer of trends incontemporary art; and enjoyingthe same standing in itsparticular field is SIMO TCI, theInternational Computer,Multimedia and CommunicationsFair held in November. Yet therange is enormous, spanning over70 fairs from almost all sectors ofthe economic and social fabric ofwestern society. The MadridTrade Fair Board (InstituciónFerial de Madrid - IFEMA) is incharge of scheduling andcoordinating all the various tradefairs. Juan Carlos I Park, adjoiningthe showgrounds, is itself worthexploring.

Sports

Madrid is a city that hostsimportant sports events,particularly in the case offootball. Every weekend,Madrid’s three most famoussoccer stadiums _-the SantiagoBernabéu Stadium (home ofnine-time European Champions,Real Madrid), the VicenteCalderón Stadium (whereAtlético de Madrid is based), andthe Teresa Rivera Stadium (RayoVallecano’s home ground)- arethe scene of important matcheswatched by thousands of fans.

PARQUE FERIAL JUAN CARLOS I(IFEMA) Metro: Campo delas Naciones. www.ifema.es

Juan Carlos I Showgrounds

PARQUES REUNIDOS Fun fair(Parque de Atracciones), ZooAquarium, Aquópolis, etc.www.parquesreunidos.com

FAUNIA (Madrid BiologicalPark)www.faunia.es

MOVIE WORLD. WARNER BROSwww.warnerbrospark.com

Alcázar and San Vicente Gates,are veritable masterpieces– standthe Romanesque Churches ofSt. Vincent (San Vicente),St. Peter (San Pedro), St. Stephen(San Esteban) and St. Andrew(San Andrés). Accompanyingthem is the impressive Monasteryof St. Thomas, perpetualreminder of the Catholicmonarchs and the prematuredeath of their son and heir,Prince Juan, whose tomb is here.While the Velada, Verdugo,Serrano, Águila mansionhousesand the Guzman Tower (torreón)eloquently attest to the earthlypower of the city in the 15th and16th centuries, millions of pilgrimsfrom around the world flock tothe Monastery of the Incarnationand the Convents of San Joséand La Santa to follow in thefootsteps of St. Teresa andSt. John of the Cross.

Alcázar. Segovia

SEGOVIA

Presided over by its Romanaqueduct, the city’s immediatelyrecognisable landmark, Segoviacan also lay claim to otherunique sights, such as: its GothicCathedral, built over the oldcathedral that was burnt to theground in retaliation for givingsafe haven to the Comuneroinsurgents; and its Alcázar,majestically perched atop theRivers Eresma and Clamores, aroyal residence since the 13thcentury which, despite itsincomparable location, hasalways been used more as apalace than as a defensiveredoubt.

Seemingly made for walking andfamed for its excellent food,Segovia also possesses a good

forms an integral part of thedefensive structure of the walls,houses an authentic treasuretrove. Outstanding featuresinclude the high altar piece, withworks by Pedro Berruguete, theambulatory by Fruchel, therichly-carved retrochoir, the tombof Alonso Fernández deMadrigal, “El Tostado” by Vascode la Zarza, and the CathedralMuseum.

Outside the wall’s nine gates–some of which, such as the

Three World Heritage Citiesan hour from Madrid

Lying approximately one hour from Madrid by road or rail, Avila andSegovia in the Castile & León Region, and Toledo in the Castile-LaMancha Region, are a trio of world-famous historical and artisticgems, officially accorded World Heritage City status by UNESCO.

AVILA

Ringed by its town walls, Avila’sstriking medieval beauty comesas a surprise. From its possiblebeginnings as a Celtic castro(fortified encampment), theformer Roman city of Avila hadbecome an impregnablestronghold by the time of theReconquest. The Cathedral,which was begun in the 12th

century and whose apse (knownas the Cimorro by the townsfolk)

53

City walls. Avila

Roman aqueduct. Segovia

Toledo Cathedral

the same name, togetherprovide a magnificent sample ofthe cultural wealth of ChristianToledo. Moorish influence can betraced to the Bab al Mardum and

Tornerías Mosques, whilst themark left by the Jews is stillvisible in the Jewish Quarter andTránsito and Santa María laBlanca synagogues.

Convents and palaces, as well asthe Tavera Hospital, the El GrecoHouse-Museum and the artist’spowerful rendering of“El entierro del Conde de Orgaz”(Burial of the Count of Orgaz)in St. Thomas’ Church (SantoTomé), and the Alcázar, wherethe Army Museum recallsthe defence of this positionduring the Spanish Civil War,make Toledo and itsmonumental sights an absolute“must”.

number of stately houses andprize churches, such as those ofSt. Andrew, St. Martin, theKnights of St. John (San Juan delos Caballeros) and the splendidRomanesque Church of St.Stephen, with its bell tower andatrium, used for church services.The Plaza Mayor is a livelymeeting place, around whichit is easy to lose oneselfmeandering along lanes andalleys of another age.

Close by, nestling in theneighbouring GuadarramaMountains, is La Granja Palace,where Philip V was intent onestablishing his own Versailles-type court. The palace, begun byArdemans and completed bySachetti and others, is onlyrivalled by its lovely park andgardens, whose fountainsprovide a constant spectacle.

City view of Toledo

TOLEDO

In the middle ages, Toledo wasthe model par excellence of co-existence of the three greatcultures, namely, Christianity,Islam and Judaism. Its towers,walls and gates such as thePuerta de Bisagra, are evidenceof a warlike city, which alsoenjoys the privilege of being thesite of Spain’s PrimatialCathedral. This, one of the moststunning Gothic cathedrals inthe country, was begun in the13th century by Ferdinand III(Fernando III el Santo), over theremains of what had once beenthe great mosque of the Moors.San Juan de los Reyes, aspectacular monasterycommissioned by the CatholicMonarchs, and the Holy CrossMuseum (Santa Cruz), housed inthe old 15th-century hospital of

54

International Dialling Code% 34

TURESPAÑA TOURIST INFORMATIONwww.spain.info

AENA (Airport) Information Office% 902 404 704 www.aena.es

Road & Highway Information% 900 123 505 www.dgt.es

USEFUL INFORMATION

MADRID CITY% 902 100 007 - 915 881 636www.turismomadrid.eswww.munimadrid.esPlaza Mayor, 3Duque de Medinaceli, 2Chamartín Railway Station - CentralConcourse, Gates 14-16Atocha Railway Station - CommuterStation Concourse (Cercanías)Barajas Airport - Terminal T1 / T4MADRID REGIONwww.madrid.orgAlcalá de HenaresCallejón de Santa María% 918 892 694

Plaza de los Santos Niños% 918 810 634AranjuezPlaza de San Antonio, 9% 918 910 427ChinchónPlaza Mayor, 6% 918 935 323San Lorenzo de El EscorialGrimaldi, 2 % 918 905 313Ávila Plaza de la Catedral, 4% 920 211 387Segovia Plaza Mayor, 10% 921 460 334Toledo Puerta de Bisagra% 925 220 843 % 928 862 300

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES

TOURIST PARADORS (State-run hotels)

Central booking officeRequena, 3 - 28013 Madrid% 902 549 979 ) 902 525 432www.parador.esChinchón ParadorCalle de los Huertos, 1% 918 940 836 ) 918 940 908Alcalá de Henares HosteríaColegios, 3% 918 880 330 ) 918 880 527

Ávila ParadorMarqués Canales de Chozas, 2% 920 211 340 ) 920 226 166Segovia ParadorCarretera de Valladolid% 921 443 737 ) 921 437 362Toledo ParadorCerro del Emperador% 925 221 850 ) 925 225 166

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

Emergencies % 112Hospital emergencies % 061Civil Guard (Guardia Civil) % 062National Police % 091Municipal Police % 092

Municipal Information Service% 010Regional Information Service % 012Post % 902 197 197 www.correos.es

TRANSPORT

In-city transport: there is a reduced-rateticket. This is the “Bono Metro-Bus”,valid for ten trips on both bus andunderground. It can be purchased at allUnderground stations, officialtobacconist shops (estancos) andmunicipal transport booths (EmpresaMunicipal de Transportes –EMT). There

is also a combined museum-and-transport ticket (kindly consult :www.madridcard.com

ADIF Information and telephonebookings % 902 432 343Internacional information% 902 243 202 www.adif.es

SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD

CANADA. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2% 1416/ 961 31 31 ) 1416/ 961 19 92www.spain.info/cae-mail: [email protected]. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-KuTOKIO-105-0001% 813/ 34 32 61 42 ) 813/ 34 32 61 44www.spain.info/jpe-mail: [email protected]. PekínSpanish Embassy – Tourism SectionTayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmale Nanlu, 14 - 100600 BEIJING% 8610/ 65 32 93 06 ) 8610/ 65 32 93 05e-mail: [email protected] OF IRELAND. DublinSpanish Tourist Office1, 2, 3 Westmoreland Street - Dublin 2% 353 1 653 0200 ) 353 1 653 0205e-mail: [email protected]. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya -16/2, 6º MOSCOW 103009% 74 95 / 935 83 99 ) 74 95 / 935 83 96www.spain.info/rue-mail: [email protected]. SingaporeSPANISH TOURIST OFFICE541 Orchard Road Liat Tower # 09-04238881 SINGAPORE% 65 / 67 37 30 08 ) 65 / 67 37 31 73

www.spain.infoe-mail: [email protected] KINGDOM. LondonSpanish Tourist Office2nd floor, 79 New Cavendish StreetLondon W1A 6XB% 44207/ 317 20 10 ) 44207/ 317 20 48www.spain.info/uke-mail: [email protected] STATES OF AMERICAwww.spain.info/usLos AngelesTourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211% 1323/ 658 71 95 ) 1323/ 658 10 61e-mail: [email protected] Office of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60/611% 1312/ 642 19 92 ) 1312/ 642 98 17e-mail: [email protected] Office of Spain1395 Brickell AvenueMIAMI,Florida 33131% 1305/ 358 19 92 ) 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: [email protected] YorkTourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th floorNEW YORK, N.Y. 10103% 1212/ 265 88 22 ) 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail: [email protected]

EMBASSIES IN MADRID

CanadaNúñez de Balboa, 35 3º% 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251Japan Serrano, 109% 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321Republic of IrelandClaudio Coello, 73% 915 763 500 ) 914 351 677

Russia Velázquez, 155% 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712United KingdomFernando El Santo, 16% 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033United States of AmericaSerrano, 75% 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303

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Navasde Oro

Turégano

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Sepúlveda Riaza

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Hernansancho

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La AcebedaSomosierra

Montejo dela Sierra

Colmenarde la SierraHorcajo de

la Sierra

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Manzanaresel Real

Sotodel Real

Lozoya

Mirafloresde la Sierra

NavacerradaCercedilla

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San Agustínde Guadalix

El Molar

La Cabrera

Navalafuente

Bustarviejo

Cabanillas

LozoyuelaEl Berrueco

Torrelaguna

Las Matas

Valdemorillo

Brunete

Chapinería

Navas del Rey

Aldea del Fresno

Villanueva de la Cañada

Robledode Chavela

Pelayosde la Presa

Cadalso delos Vidrios

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San Ildefonsoo la Granja

San Lorenzode El Escorial

Guadarrama

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ColmenarViejo

Alcobendas

San Sebastiánde los ReyesGalapagar

Las Rozas

Majadahonda

ColladoVillalba

Pozuelo de AlarcónBoadilla del Monte

Villaviciosade Odón

Móstoles

Alcorcón

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PintoFuenlabradaNavalcarnero

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Talaverade la Reina

Torrijos

La Pueblade Montalbán

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Colmenarde OrejaFuensalida

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CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005

[email protected]

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HighwayDual carriagewayNational road“A” road“B” roadLocal roadRailwayBullet trainParadorInnShrine-MonasteryNature reserveGolf courseSki resortMarinaCamping siteAirportWorld Heritage Site

60

Itinerary I1. Plaza Mayor2. San Miguel Market3. Cuchilleros Arch4. St. Michael’s Basilica5. Convent of Las Jerónimasdel Corpus Christi

6. Plaza de la Villa7. Lujanes Tower8. Cisneros House9. Casa de la Villa (City Hall)10. Abrantes Palace11. Duke of Uceda’s Palace (or Palacio

de los Consejos)12. Convent of the Holy Sacrament13. Emir Mohamed I Park14. La Almudena Cathedral

Itinerary II15. Royal Palace16. Plaza de Oriente17. Theatre Royal Opera House18. Royal Monastery of the Incarnation19. Senate House20. Palace of the Marquis of Grimaldi21. Convent of Las Reparadoras22. Plaza de Isabel II23. Descalzas Reales Monastery24. Church of San Ginés25. Puerta del Sol

Itinerary III26. St. Isidore’s27. Church of St. Peter the Old

(or Royal St. Peter’s)28. Bishop’s Chapel29. St. Isidore’s Museum30. Church of St. Francis the Great31. Toledo Gate32. Toledo Bridge

Itinerary IV33. Thyssen-Bornemisza Museun34. Parliament35. Madrid Atheneum36. Lope de Vega House-Museum37. Church and Convent of the Trinitarians38. Church of Jesus of Medinaceli39. Neptune Fountain40. Royal Academy of the Spanish Language41. Church of San Jerónimo el Real42. Prado Museum43. Botanical Gardens44. Centro de Arte Reina Sofia National

Museum

Itinerary V45. Royal Academy of Fine Arts of

San Fernando46. Church of Las Calatravas47. St. Joseph’s48. Fine Arts Circle49. Army General Headquarters50. Bank of Spain51. General Post Office52. Americas House53. Cibeles Fountain54. Puerta de Alcalá55. Casón del Buen Retiro56. Crystal Palace57. Velázquez Palace

Itinerary VI58. Caballero de Gracia Oratorio59. Telefónica Building60. Plaza de España61. St. Mark’s62. Temple of Debod63. Cerralbo Museum64. Liria Palace65. Conde Duque Barracks

Itinerary VII66. Municipal Museum67. Romantic Museum68. Dos de Mayo Square69. Descubrimiento Gardens70. National Library71. National Archaeological Museum72. Americas Museum73. Segovia Bridge74. San Antonio de la Florida

SYMBOLS USEDTourist information officePostHospitalCar parkPolice stationBus & Coach stationRailway stationBullet train (Tren Alta Velocidad- AVE)Commuter train stationUnderground (Metro) station

Villaverde

Carabanchel

El Pardo

Valdelatas

ALCOBENDAS

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COLÓNTRIBUNAL

CHUECA

GRAN VÍACALLAO

SANTODOMINGO

PLAZA DEESPAÑA

SOL

ÓPERA

PRÍNCIPE PÍO

TIRSODE MOLINA

LATINA

PUERTATOLEDO

ACACIAS

EMBAJADORES

ARGÜELLES

PALOS DE LA FRONTERA

ATOCHA

ANTÓNMARTÍN

SEVILLA

BANCODE ESPAÑA

MENÉNDEZPELAYO

RETIRO

PRÍNCIPE DEVERGARA

GOYA

IBIZA

NÚÑEZ DE BALBOA

NOVICIADO

VENTURARODRÍGUEZ

ATOCHA-RENFE

LAVAPIÉS

LISTA

PUERTADEL ÁNGEL

RECOLETOS

PALOSDE MOGUER ATOCHA

JERÓNIMOS

NIÑOJESÚS

IBIZA

JUSTICIA

RECOLETOS

SALAMANCA

LISTA

IMPERIAL

UNIVERSIDAD

EMBAJADORES

CORTES

ALMAGRO

SOL

PALACIO

ACACIAS

GOYA

PUERTADEL ÁNGEL

CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 914167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2005

[email protected]

0 100 200 300 400 500 m

N

PA

RQ

UE

DE

AT

RA

CC

ION

ES

ZO

O

CÁDIZ 663 Km

BA

DA

JOZ

401

Km

A-4

TOLEDO 71 Km

A-42

A-5

A CORUÑA 609 km

A-6

BURGOS 237 Km

A-1Z

AR

AG

OZ

A325

Km

A-2

VA

LEN

CIA

352K

m

A-3

R-3

69

21

MADRIDMADRID

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