SplitSummer 2014MapsEventsRestaurantsCafsNightlifeSightseeingShoppingHotelsN7 - complimentary copysplit.inyourpocket.comDalmatian ZagoraTen must-visit places in inland CroatiaInsider TipsWhen local, be local, go local!Makarska RivieraFrom sun to sea, an experience that touches all the sensesSplit vodic - 7.indd 1 6.6.2014. 17:53:16Split vodic - 7.indd 2 6.6.2014. 17:53:17Summer 20143facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketContentsE S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E Sfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketPhoto by Dalmatia Explorer-Adventure Eco ToursForeword4The editors choice on what not to miss this summerArrival & Getting Around6Land ahoy! Planes, Trains & AutomobilesCity Basics11Basic tipsCulture & Events12Festival fun and music maniaSplit Pulse 16Insider tips by localsRestaurants17Enjoy the richesLocal Flavour23Fresh and always a buzz!Cofee & Cakes27Easily the best scene in the world!Nightlife28Step out in Split styleSightseeing30Check out the highlightsDalmatian Zagora3610 must-visit placesMakarska Riviera40Get to know Makarska RivieraSplit Surroundings53Out and about around the cityLeisure65Adventure sports, sailing...Shopping66Perfect gifts and souvenirsHotels73Your home away from homeDirectory75Grown up important stuMaps & IndexStreet register76County map 77City centre map79City map 80-82Discover the hidden parts of Dalmatia; its hinterland will excite you, its natural beauty will enlighten you, its hospitability will delight you, and its food will heighten you and your love for this magical setting! For more see pages 36-39Split vodic - 7.indd 3 6.6.2014. 17:53:254Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com4Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com ForewordOur new revamped IYP layout is a buzz with more to give to our beloved readers. Welcome to Split, a sunshine city lled with action aplenty and were here to make your stay, bet-ter than OK! Fabulous festivals of air and fun dominate the seasonal calendar Ultra Europe is one of the gem events amidst many electronic festivals down the coast. Dont miss other music and beach festivals of various genres A Sus-tipan Nights Dream, Ethnoambient Salona, Bavice Beach Festival... WheninSplit,dowhatmostSplianido;visitthePazar and Pekarija (fruit and sh market) for some autochthonic goodiesandtheexperienceofDalmatianlife!Wehavea specialonDalmatianZagora,theunspoilednaturalhin-terland as well as its authentic local specialties.When the weatherstartstoscorch,weadvisetheMakarskaRiviera for some of the most beautiful beaches along the Adriatic Coast. With lots of info on whats in as well as specials and handy tips,wehopeyourpersonalIYPguidecomesinhandy. Wishingyouallaspectacularandmemorablesummerin Split! QR CODEThisQRcodecontainsthe websiteaddress,http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/split forSplitInYourPocket:anda userhavingacameraphone equipped with the correct read-ersoftwarecanscanthisimage of the QR Code causing the phones browser to launch andredirecttotheprogrammedURL.Savetheimage and print it out any way you want.PublisherPlava Ponistra d.o.o., ZagrebISSN 1846-856XCompany Oce & AccountsVinja ArambaiSplit In Your Pocket, Drakovieva 66, Zagreb, CroatiaTel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.comAccounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.Printed by Radin Print, Sveta NedeljaEditorial Editor Vinja ArambaiContributors Nataly Anderson-Marinovi, Frank Jelini, Jona-than Bouseld, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena PocediSenior Assistant Editor Kristina timacAssistant Editor Blanka ValiReasearcher/Public relations Anita MariniDesign Ela BandaPhotography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated CoverRickDeMeis,Peristil View.Oneoftheparticipantsof the photo competitionSales & Circulation Manager Kristijan VukieviSupport Sales Anita Marini, Kristina timac, Blanka Valizagreb@inyourpocket.comCopyright notice Text,mapsandphotoscopyrightPlavaponistrad.o.o.Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-licationmaybereproducedinanyform,exceptbriefextracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisherandcopyrightowner. ThebrandnameInYourPocket isusedunderlicensefromUABIn YourPocket(Bernardinu9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).ABOUT IYPWehavecomealongwayinthe22 yearssincewepublishedtherstIn YourPocketguide-toVilniusinLithu-ania - so much so that we are today the largestpublisheroflocally-produced cityguidesintheworld.Therecent publicationofaguidetotheislandsof the Dutch Caribbean - our rst in the WesternHemisphere-hastakenthe numberofguidespublishedeachyear byIn Your Pocket to well over ve milli-on,spreadacrossmorethan100cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all thats new at In Your Pocket by liking us onFacebook(facebook.com/inyourpo-cket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).Split vodic - 7.indd 4 6.6.2014. 17:53:27Split vodic - 7.indd 5 6.6.2014. 17:53:276Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com6Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting AroundIf you havent heard about us by now, its mainly because all the reviewers are still here. They refuse to leave. Theres like 50 of them. It costsa lot to feed them.DeBelly restaurant, situated in the very centre of Split and in the hip GoliBosi design hostel, is a nice place with a nice olive grove terrace where hungry people go for a quick mood improvement in the form of delicious meals and / or wide variety of drinks, with prices styled with every wallet in mind.Morpugova poljana 2, Split+385 21 510 999Photo by Josipa BiliBY BOATSplitsferryportisntabadplacetomakethetransition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transporta-tionandhasaloadofservicesonoer.Ifyouhappento seepolicemenstrollingaround,dontbedisturbed:those are just the customs ocers that work at the oce located intheport.Thetoiletnearthebackoftheportoperates aroundtheclock.Changingcurrency:Thereareatleast fourATMsspacedoutatregularintervalsthroughoutthe building.SplitToursoperatesanexchangeoceduring theirworkinghours.Callinghome:Therearetwopublic phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the sta-tion. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Tra-jektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town.Checktheschedulepostedinsidethestoptond the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; con-tinuefurtherandyoullreachtheoldtowninaboutve minutes. Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split servesasthemainhubforreachingthemid-Dalmatian islandslikeHvar,Bra,oltaandVis.Fordomestictravel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. Thebasicpricerundownissomethinglikethis:33-68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets towearsometypeofcutelittlelifevest.Thejourneyfrom Splittooltatakesabouthalfanhourandthetripto Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, youll nd bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.JADROLINIJAJadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the is-lands of Bra, Hvar, Vis and olta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans(footpassengersonly).Ticketsforlocalcata-marans,internationalferriesandthecoastallineRijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnikcanbepurchasedonline.Forlocal catamaransitispossibletobookonemonthinadvance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr,www.jadrolinija.hr.Open04:30-24:00. July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00.KAPETAN LUKA, KRILOKrilocatamaranrunningtoVisislandandDubrovnikvia Milna,Hvar,Korula.QD-3,GatSv.Petra,tel.(+385-21) 645476,ivana.tomic@krilo.hr,www.krilo.hr.Open 07:30-18:30,Tue,Thu06:00-16:00,Fri07:30-20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00.MSC KRSTARENJASNAVagentrunstheSplit-Anconaferryline.QD-3,Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:30.SPLIT TOURSBlue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and Hvar-Ancona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).QD-3,GatSv.Dujebb(Ferryterminal),tel.(+385-21)3525 33,booking@splittours.hr,www.splittours.hr.Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. ABY BUSSplitsbusstationisfairlysmallbuthaseverythingyou needtomakearrivingrelativelypainless.Atoilet(open 00:00-24:00)4kncanbefoundinsidethestation,along withthedomesticandinternationalticketwindowsand an information desk. The domestic ticket window oers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk op-eratesfrom00:00-24:00.Theinternationalticketoce operates06:00-22:00.Theredandbluepostersonthe windowoftheinternationalticketocelisttheinterna-tional arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop o your bags for a at rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As its on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centersalongtheway;andtaxiswaittowhiskyouaway directly in front of the bus station.MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR SPLIT)Ifyoureplanningareturntriptoadomesticdestination, makesuretocheckbusoperatorsandtraveltimes,as returnticketsusuallyrequireyoutotravelwiththesame company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducingbutaesthetically-pleasingoldroads,whichcan aectthelengthofyourtrip.QJ-3,ObalaKnezaDoma-goja12,tel.(+385-)060327777/(+385-21)329180, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.TOURIST INFORMATIONTOURIST INFORMATION CENTREQD-3,ObalaHrvatskognarodnogpreporoda9, tel.(+385-21)360066,touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com.Open08:00-20:00,Sun08:00 - 13:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTREQJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@visitsplit.com,www.visitsplit.com.Open08:00- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.Split vodic - 7.indd 6 6.6.2014. 17:53:33If you havent heard about us by now, its mainly because all the reviewers are still here. They refuse to leave. Theres like 50 of them. It costsa lot to feed them.DeBelly restaurant, situated in the very centre of Split and in the hip GoliBosi design hostel, is a nice place with a nice olive grove terrace where hungry people go for a quick mood improvement in the form of delicious meals and / or wide variety of drinks, with prices styled with every wallet in mind.Morpugova poljana 2, Split+385 21 510 999Split vodic - 7.indd 7 6.6.2014. 17:53:388Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com8Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Aroundwww.inyourpocket.comBY CARFrom ZagrebSoyouhaveyourownwheelsandyoudliketoknowthe easiestwaytogettoSplitfromZagreb.Noworries!The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route ontheA-1fromZagrebtoSplitisabout380kilometres longandwilltake3,5to4hourstotal,aswellasrelieving you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know youre getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and thats that!From SloveniaTraveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.From ItalyTraveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, niceandsparklingclear.First,taketheE-70motorway toTriesteandlookforthesignsthatpointtoFiumeand routenumberE-61(localroute7),whichcrossesSlovenia andentersCroatiaatPasjak. Then,takerouteE-61,which willtakeyoutowardsRijeka.Whenpossible,getonE-65 (localroute6)toBosiljevo,whereyoullseesignsforthe A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.BY PLANESplitsairportis30kmoutoftownandisrathersmallbut quitepleasant,situatedasitisquiteclosetothesea.Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Followthestepsleadingdownfromthemainhalltond atoiletandababy-changingstation.Toiletscanalso be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Chang-ingcurrency:SplitskaBanka(Open07:30-19:30)hasan exchangeoceanditcanbefoundatthefarendofthe main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: Youcanpurchaseaphonecardatthenewsstand (openaccordingtoighttimes). Therearepublicphones in two locations: rst, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which oers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the mens and womens toilets.TAXIThe simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If youre with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 18kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and2.5knaddedpereachpieceofluggageand50kn perhourforwaiting. Thereisnoadditionalchargefor traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major ho-tels, Firule and Kriina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.Photo by P. SoulhiardPUBLIC TRANSPORTPublictransportinSplitisorganisedbyPrometSplit buses.Therearedaybuslines1through18,21and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39,and40)runningFridaysandSaturdaysonly. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11 kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9 kn. If youre trying to beat the system and chance itwithoutaticket,thepenaltywhencaught(andyou most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70 kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere inthecity.Sukoianska(D-2)isthemainstationfrom which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omi, the airport, andotherdestinationsoutsideofSplit.Sukoianskas ticket oce operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30to12:00onSaturdays,andisclosedonSunday. To contact the Sukoianska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56.Forgeneralinformationregardingbusservices call (+385-21) 40 79 99.PROMET SPLITQE-1,Hercegovaka20,tel.(+385-21)407888, promet@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.Split vodic - 7.indd 8 6.6.2014. 17:53:44Summer 20149facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketArrival & Getting Aroundfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketNATIONAL HOLIDAYSJanuary 1 New Years Day January 6 Epiphany March 31 EasterApril 1 Easter MondayMay 1 International Workers' Day May 30 Corpus Christi June 22Anti Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanks-giving Day August 15 Feast of the AssumptionOctober 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints DayDecember 25 ChristmasDecember 26 Saint Stephens DayGettingtotown:Ifyouprefertogobycar,therearea numberofcarrentalagenciesoperatinginthemainhall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Plesoprijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldnt cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No37stopsjustinfrontoftheairportattwenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on week-ends,withticketscosting17knone-way;crossthestreet and wait at the stop there. Plesoprijevoz buses run accord-ing to the arrival times of ights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.SPLIT AIRPORT-KATELA (ZRANA LUKA SPLIT-KATELA)QCestadr.FranjeTumana96,Kateltafli,tel. (+385-21)203555,fax(+385-21)203422,uprava@split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.BRA AIRPORTSituated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Bra, this small airport start-ed operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter ights organized only during the summer. The airport ac-cepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers orfewer.QVekoPolje,GornjiHumac,tel.(+385-21)55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00-18:00,Fri,Sat,Sun08:00-20:00.September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00.TRAVEL AGENCIESF-TOURS PUTOVANJAQD-2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. Open08:30-18:30,Sat08:30-12:00.ClosedSun. ASPLIT TOURSQD-3,GatSv.Dujebb,tel.(+385-21)352533, booking@splittours.hr,www.splittours.hr.Open 08:00-20:30,Sat08:00-12:00,Sun15:30-20:30. A Split vodic - 7.indd 9 6.6.2014. 17:53:4410Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com10Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Aroundwww.inyourpocket.comBY TRAINThe train station has very few amenities, save for the coin-operated storage lockers that can be accessed during the stations working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As its on the samesideofthestreet,thedirectionsforgettingaround are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internetandcallcentersalongtheway;andtaxiswaitto whisk you away directly in front of the train station.MAIN TRAIN STATIONFrequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to aloadofotherEuropeancities.ThetriptoZagrebtakes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot lesstiresomebytheweekenddiscotrain,onwhichpas-sengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at 22:01, theres one more really handy service oered at the train station. If you have a car and dont feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for afeeof186,30-266,30kn,plusthepriceofapassenger ticket.QJ-3,ObalaknezaDomagoja9,tel.(+385-)060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hzpp.hr.PARKINGTherearefourparkingzonesandpricesrangefrom3 -5kn/hourdependingonthezoneandtime.InZone 1parkingispayablefromMon-Fri06:30-21:30,Sat 07:00-14:00andinZones2,3,and4fromMon-Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using yourmobileforthesameprice.However,beawareof the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when youre supposed to have one you might catch a ne of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4).Asidefromzonedstreetparking,anotheroptionfor parkinginSplitisguardedparkingareas,whichvary inpriceperhourfrom5to10kndependingonyour proximitytothecentre.So,ifyoureparkingnearthe Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10 kn charge for the rst hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.PROMET SPLITQD-2,Gundulieva29,tel.(+385-21)481097, parking@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.SMS PARKINGThere are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes locatedatevenintervalsalongthestreet:zone1(red - 70 8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214). Split vodic - 7.indd 10 6.6.2014. 17:53:45Summer 201411facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCity Basicsfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCUSTOMSAs Croatia entered the EU on July 1, there are no longer cus-tom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-memberstateswerecommendyoutofollowinfoat www.porezna-uprava.hr.DISABLED TRAVELLERSRaisingawarenessforthedisabledisbeginningtotake shapeandsomeimprovementscanbeseen,butthereis stillaloooongwaytogo.Atthemoment,allpubliccar parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen-tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expectproblemsonthestreets,footpathsandaccessto mostbuildings.Ifyoureplanningtovisit,wesuggestyou inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.ELECTRICITYTheelectricitysupplyis220W,50hz,sovisitorsfromthe United States will need to use a transformer to run electri-cal appliances.MONEYThereareplentyofexchangeocesaroundSplit,aswell asanabundanceofATMsthatoperatetwenty-fourhours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafs accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash onyou.Ifyoureplanningatriptooneoftheislandsin thearea,youshoulddenitelyplanaheadandcarrythe amountofcashyouthinkyoullneedforthetrip,asnd-ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.PUBLIC TOILETSWhen you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good con-dition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuka little bay area (H-3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50 ROADSWhenbehindthewheeldriversmustalwayshavetheir drivinglicence,traclicenceandgreencardwiththem. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt andnomobilesexcepthands-free.Maximumbloodalco-hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/phonsecondaryroadsand130km/phonhighways.As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.VISASSince Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does thatmean?Allcitizensofstatesthatneedvisastoenter otherEUmemberstatesneedavisatoenterCroatiaalso. Therefore,makesuretovisittheCroatianconsulate/em-bassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.WATERTap water is absolutely safe for drinking.WHEN THINGS GO WRONGCrime gures rank Croatia and the city of Split signicantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep youreyesonyourbelongingsatalltime.Incaseofan emergency, Croatia has implemented Europes wide Emer-gency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER ortheredepartment.Dependingonthecitydistrict,in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, con-tactyourembassyorconsulate. ThemainbuildingforER islocatedinFiruleHospitalinSpinieva1(E-3)where everythingnecessarywillbedone.Incaseofancaracci-dentcallHAKroadhelp24/7(+3851)1987,andasfor accidents on the sea call 195.BASIC DATAPOPULATION:Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612Split County (April 2011): 455,242Split (April 2011): 178,192Territory:Croatiaslandterritorytakesup56,542km2. It shares borders with Hun gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Mon-tenegro,Bosnia-Herzegovinaandasea-borderwith Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Moun-tainswhichcreateanaturalborderbetweenCroatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.Dalmatiancoast:Thecoastisthemaintouristat-traction for good reason - the crystal clear wa ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!Islands:Anamazing1,185islandslieotheCroatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.Climate: MediterraneanLocaltime:CroatiaispartoftheCentralEuropean Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.facebook.com/splitinyourpocketSplit vodic - 7.indd 11 6.6.2014. 17:53:4512Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com12Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Culture & EventsEXHIBITIONS06.05 TUESDAY - 30.08 SATURDAYDUJMOVAA EXPRESSAnexhibitionshowcasingtherecentarchaeologicalre-search and history of Dujmovaa, a part of Split located at its north-eastern edge, from ancient times until the mod-ernday.Thelocationwhichwasnamedafterthecreek andChurchofSt.Dujewillbepresentedthroughmaps, drawings,photosandlayouts.QJ-2,SplitCityMuseum, Papalieva1,muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr,www.mgst.net.15.05 THURSDAY - 30.09 TUESDAYFIRST FERRIES ON THE CROATIAN ADRIATICThe Croatian History Museum marks the 55th anniversary of the rst ferry which had sailed our shores. It was named BodulkaandwasontherouteCrikvenica-ilo(islandof Krk).Abookaccompaniestheexhibitionwithahistory offerryconnectionsalongtheAdriatic.QK-2,Croatian MaritimeMuseumSplit,Glagoljaka18,hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr.JULY - END OF SEPTEMBERISTRANKA DALMAT, THE ROAD TO SARAJEVO AND FUNERAL CONVOY 1914A photo exhibition dedicated to the last heir to the throne of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Franz Ferdinand, and the start of WWI. It happened in Sarajevo with his remains tak-enontheshipDalmat(betterknownasIstranka)along theCroatiancoasttoTrieste.Themournfulprocessionis shown in great detail.QK-2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaka 18, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr.14.07 MONDAY - 14.08 THURSDAYANTONIO SEGUIThis famous Argentinean painter with a Parisian address is part of the so-called new guration artistic movement. His worksarelledwithscenesofhumancrowdssetinthe urban environment in all of its constraints. Man amongst themasses!QInstituteHAZU,MilesiPalace,Trgbrae Radia 7; Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10.AUGUST - SEPTEMBERZLATKO PRICA SELECTED WORKS FROM THE PRICA GALLERY COLLECTION, POU SAMOBORThe Split audience will be able to view a selection of Zlatko Pricasbestworks;anartistwhoduringhisftyyearca-reerhasbecomeoneofCroatiasmostcelebratedpaint-ers. Born in 1916 in Pecs, present day Hungary, he studied under the supervision of Croatian greats and is known for hiscolourful,playfulandveryexpressiveartworks.QJ-2, EmanuelVidoviGallery,PoljanakraljiceJelenebb, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net.27.08 WEDNESDAY - 01.10 WEDNESDAYVLADO MARTEKSetting the benchmark, Martek is a post-conceptual artist whose collages, text-diagrams and combined works have aparadoxicalandhumoroustouch.Byusingchromatic contrast(redandblack),Martekisidentiedforhisorigi-nality and newness.QJ-2, Kulla Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, www.galerija-kula.hr.MoHorizons - VoiSa Festivalfacebook.com/splitinyourpocketSplit vodic - 7.indd 12 6.6.2014. 17:53:47Summer 201413facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCulture & Eventsfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketMoHorizons - VoiSa FestivalSPECIAL EVENTS08.02 SATURDAY - 27.09 SATURDAYART MARKETHead to the Prokurative any Saturday morning and youre boundtobumpintothecityscreativeindividualsand organisations.Lotsofgoodiestobuy,eventsandper-formancestosee,themedartexhibitsandoenological tastings!QI-2,Prokurative(TrgRepublike).Starts09:00 - 15:00.06.06 FRIDAY - 14.06 SATURDAYSPLIT MEDITERRANEAN FILM FESTIVALDont miss out on attending this years Mediterranean Film FestivalinJune!Theselms,directedandproducedby locals from the mediterranean region, are viewed outside in the open air cinema Bavice or in cinema Zlatna Vrata, locatedinDiocletians1700-year-oldpalace.Asaspecial addition,anewopenaircinemawillbeintroducedthis year. Along with lm screenings, workshops and lectures areorganizedforall-fromprofessionaldirectorsand producers,toyoungaspiringlmmakers,tothegeneral public.AlmfrenzywillengulftheDalmatiancoastthis summerasSplitstraditionalFilmFestivalwillbemoving to 20 towns and cities in a project entitled Mediterranean Cinema. For all details on dates and visiting programmes, visit www.fmfs.hr. QBavice Summer Cinema; Kinoteka Zlatnavrata,Dioklecijanova7;CafebarGalerija(Split Art Gallery), Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www.fmfs.hr.16.06 MONDAYLAIBACHThings get really loud and heavy with this legendary Slo-venianavant-gardemusicgroupalwaysseenascontro-versial because of their totalitarian-style image and heavy industrial/neo-classicalmusicstyle.Theytourinpromo-tion of their latest album Spectre.QI-1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata 1. Concert starts at 21:00. Tick-ets 120 - 160kn.02.07 WEDNESDAY - 03.07 THURSDAYA SUSTIPAN NIGHTS DREAMWith over 5,000 people in attendance last year, this event hasbecomeamusicbrand.Concertswillbeledbytwo guitarvirtuososinVlatkoStefanovskiandMiroslavTadi, plus the charismatic Rundek Cargo Trio. The Sustipan Cape is the perfect setting amidst ancient pine trees and lovely park surroundings. Bring a blanket!QC-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com.11.07 FRIDAY - 13.07 SUNDAYULTRA EUROPE FESTIVALWhatcanwesay?Thebiggest,themostultimateelec-tronicdancefestivalinEuropeishere,andheretostay. EnterthePoljudStadiumforthelikesofDavidGuetta, Carl Cox, Hardwell, Armin Van Buuren, Afrojack, Tiesto and more world DJs amazing the masses.QPoljud Stadium, 8. Mediteranskihigara2;HotelAmforaGrandBeachRe-sort, Hvar, www.ultraeurope.com.08.08 FRIDAY - 21.08 THURSDAYFRIENDS OF THE SEAThis open air exhibition will display 60 big format art photo-graphs from the 60s, with the theme being, Life on the Croa-tianAdriatic,andwillshowlocalandforeignvisitorsworks by Ante and Zvonimir Brkan, Joso pralja, Too Dabac, Nikola Vuemilovi, Milan Pavi, Mladen Grevi, Nenad Gattin, Alojz Orel,uroGriesbach,IvoToli,AndroDamjani,Fernando Soprano,MarijaBraut,ZlataLauraMizner,IgorEmili,Viktor Hreljanovi,Mladen Tudor...QC-3,Branimirovaobala,www.prijateljimora.com.Photo by Too Dabac - Game, SplitPhoto by Fernando Soprano - Island Port, Cres, 1963.Split vodic - 7.indd 13 6.6.2014. 17:53:5614Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com14Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Culture & Eventswww.inyourpocket.com14.07 MONDAY - 14.08 THURSDAYTHE 60TH SPLIT SUMMER FESTIVALA traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre ofSplit.TogetherwithlocalproductionsbytheCroatian NationalTheatreinSplit,thefestivalwillhostmanymu-sical,theatreanddanceperfomancesfromCroatiaand abroad.QVariouslocationsacrossSplit,www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.18.07 FRIDAY - 19.07 SATURDAYSPLIT BLUES FESTIVALWhos got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this genre. Asalways,theeventhasahighlevelofproductionand attracts some of the best Croatian and international musi-cians. Free admission!QD-3, Riva.01.08 FRIDAY - 02.08 SATURDAYBAVICE BEACH FESTIVALAfterlastyearshugesuccesswith7,000pumpingvisi-tors, Splits audacious Bavice Beach now hosts two days of electronic music. Dance under the stars to UK DJ Dave Clarke plus ten hit DJs from Croatia and this part of Europe.QD-3, Bavice Beach. Starts 21:00 - 05:00.30.08 SATURDAY - 06.09 SATURDAYMAGFESTIVALFor the 5th year in a row, as organized by the Young Aca-demic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will beheldatthebeautifulvenueoftheGothicHallofthe Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent displayoftheEmanuelVidoviGallery.QJ-2,SplitCity Museum, Papalieva 1, www.udrugamag.com.A Sustipan Nights Dream,Photo by Luka KivelaCOUNTY EVENTS12.06 THURSDAY - 15.06 SUNDAYBATTLE OF THE NATIONSTheglory,thepassion,thehonour!35nationsaresetto appear in the fth ever World Cup of this exclusive event wherearmouredknightsrepresentingtheircountriesdo fullbattleintheMedievalTrogirfortress.QKamerlengo Fortress, Trogir, www.battleofthenations.ua.19.06 THURSDAY - 22.06 SUNDAYFOR FESTIVALTheFOR2014musicaleventwilltakeplaceontheisland of Hvar and will feature a number of artists, including Klax-ons, Bok Bok, Tiger & Woods, Fort Romeau, Maurice Fulton, StormQueen...Thiseventwillcombinethepleasuresof summerislandbeauty,alongwithbreathtakingmusical performances.Duetothesmallcapacityofthevenue, only2,500visitorscanenter,sodontmissoutonsecur-ing your tickets ahead of time.QTown Hvar, island Hvar, talktome@for-festival.com, www.for-festival.com.05.07 SATURDAY - 26.07 SATURDAYFESTIVAL DALMATIAN KLAPA OMIEstablishedin1966,thismusicalextravaganzafeaturing CroatianacappellamusicisheldannuallyinOmi.Dont miss out on the 48th Festival featuring all men or all wom-en vocal groups, as well as mixed groups. These beautiful voices will leave you breathless!QOmi, www.fdk.hr.15.07 TUESDAY - 19.07 SATURDAYSUPETAR SUPER FILM FESTIVALAfestivalofcontemporaryEuropeandocumentarylm withaprogrammeofaccompanyingevents,including concertsbyleadingCroatianbandsandexhibitionsand artworkshopsonthemesrelatedtotheprogrammeof lms.Thefestivaltakesplaceovervedays.QSupetar, Bra,supetar.super@gmail.com,www.supersupetar.com.Split vodic - 7.indd 14 6.6.2014. 17:53:57Summer 201415facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCulture & Eventsfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCULTURE CENTRESALLIANCE FRAINCAISEQI-2,Marmontova3,tel.(+385-21)347290, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,www.alliance-francaise-split.com.Open08:00-13:00,17:00- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.MKC-MULTIMEDIA CULTURE CENTRE (MUL-TIMEDIJALNI KULTURNI CENTAR)QD/E-2,Ulicaslobode28,tel.(+385-21)537449/(+385-21)537471,mkcsplit@mkcsplit.hr,www.mkcsplit.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.MORE EVENTSJune - October Pave MajiStudio Narana Gallery Graphics and paintingsJune 10 - July 13 Revija Urbane Kulture - Heres a HandRiva Daily concerts by renowned Croatian artistsJune 1510th Picigin World Cup Bavice Beach Jump, dive, and ip June16 - 28Festival of street entertainersVarious city centre locations Clowns, jugglers, acrobatsJuly 05 - 07The Split Festival Prokurative San Remo Music Festival of Croatia July 17Derrick Carter (USA) Pink Champagne Hvar, Hvar Pioneer of the Chicago house sceneJuly 17 - 19S.A.R.S. Festival Sinj Festival of alternative musicAugust 01 - 03VoiSa festival Acapulco Beach, Supetar, Bra Summer eclectic music eventAugust 07 The Magician (BE) Pink Champagne Hvar, Hvar Star of the electro sceneAugust 16 - 19Days of Diocletian Various city centre locations Re-enactment of Roman rule 18.07 FRIDAY - 19.07 SATURDAYETHNOAMBIENT SALONAThe spirit of this event is global whilst it rmly remains lo-cal. This yearly gathering truly denes how diverse world musicreallyis.Itpresentsmusicianswhogettheirinspi-rationincombiningtraditionalandcontemporarymusic from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural dierences! Hear the sounds of Kila (Ireland),Greekadelia (Greece), Kries (Croatia)...QGradina,Solin,ethnoambient@gmail.com, www.ethnoambient.net.20.07 SUNDAY - 27.07 SUNDAYVANKA REGULEAfestivalofoutdooradventuresportsplusalmfestival dedicatedtoadventurethemesequals,withasprinkling of photography equals fun for just about everyone. Sports featuredincludeclimbing,freeridebiking,indoboard, windsurng, sailing, sea kayaking, slacklining, trail running andstanduppaddling(whichwedidntthinksounded verydicultuntilwesawthepictures).QSutivan,Bra, vanka.regule@st.t-com.hr, www.vankaregule.com.25.07 FRIDAY - 31.07 THURSDAYTHE LEGEND OF MILJENKO AND DOBRILAA tale of forbidden love! Croatias true and tragic counter-parttoRomeoandJulietisreinvigoratedinthetownof Katela,hometoMiljenkoandDobrila.Theentiretown anditspeopletransportbackintothe17thcentury,see re-enactmentsofthelegendarytalewherefamilydis-pute stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKatela, www.kastela-info.hr16.08 SATURDAY - 17.08 SUNDAYMOONDANCE FESTIVALReachtothesky,seethesea,thestarrynightanddance under the moonlight. Welcome to the 2nd edition of this grandelectronicmusicfestival,headlinersincludeNina Kraviz,Agoria,AnthonyRother,VinceWatsonandForest People.QKamerlengo Fortress, Batarija Stadium and St Marks Fortress, Trogir, www.moondancefest.com.18.08 MONDAYTHE PIRATE BATTLE OF OMIThe Pirate Battle of Omi is a unique and fascinating event that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th cen-turyandasaresult,markedOmiastheCityofPirates. Therole-playingbattledescribestheghtbetweenthe Venetian eet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omi, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omi and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold coins to pass through the Bra channel. The victory lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chantedthenameofMaldukincelebration.QCityport, Omi.All the latest newsfacebook.com/splitinyourpocketSplit vodic - 7.indd 15 6.6.2014. 17:53:5716Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com16Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Split PulseWe asked ve locals - who live or work in Split - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.Teodora GrGi Jeliiprofessor and galleristSIYP: Your spot for drinking coee, going out at night?Teodora: Wine and Cheese Bar (Cankarjeva Poljana), Crme de la Crme-dessert restaurant, Uje Oil Bar, the unavoidable waterfront and the coast on the western side of Split.SIYP: A secret place to relax?Teodora: Figa Food Bar (formerly Pulse), No Stress. SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?Teodora: The sandy beaches Firule, Marjan and njan. SIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?Teodora: The city center with its countless shops by Croa-tiandesigners,withjewelryandhandcrafteditems(sup-port local designers) and applied arts.SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try? Teodora: For sure Soparnik, Split Cake, something from Uje bar or Fige and something exclusive at Zrno Soli. MaTko PeTridirector (see Klapa Cambi or music video Vrata moje sestre, Split artist Zlatan Stipii- Gibonni)SIYP: Your spot for drinking coee, going out at night?Matko: Coee at Boom Bar. A caf, which is also a subsidi-ary school for percussionists.The owner plays the violin and there is often music playing while you drink coee. SIYP: A secret place to relax?Matko:Ilovetowalkalongthesea.Anywhere.Ilovethe waterfront when there are not a lot of people. Thats when Im content. SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?Matko: The beach at Hotel Lav.SIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?Matko: Shopping at City Center One.SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try? Matko:Itisnotlocal,butIliketohaveatlunchmostat MakrovegainGetoorattheChineserestaurantinthe Lavevibuilding.Botharetop-quality.Imusthavesome Asian ancestry.SonJa dvornikphotographer(authorofthesiteBilokud klikom svud)SIYP: What is your favorite place for drinking coee or going out in Split?Sonja: Cae bar Galerija, Dominisova 9.SIYP: Recommendations for a beach?Sonja: Jadran Beach.SIYP:Whatisyoursecretplacetoescapefromthe crowds?Sonja: Then it wouldnt be a secret anymore.SIYP: Which souvenirs from Split should visitors bring home with them? Sonja: Some good red wine, olive oil and lavender. SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?Sonja:Bakalar(driedcodwithpotatoes),octopusispod peke (under the bell), high quality sh ...roata, carob cake...MaJa BiriMia GrGidr.dent.med.SIYP: Your spot for drinking coee, going out at night?Maja: Bajamonti, Zinfandel. SIYP: A place to relax?Maja: Marjan Forest ParkSIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?Maja: Obojena Svjetlost (Coloured Light Beach). SIYP: A place for shopping?Maja: City Center One.SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?Maja: Black Risotto (cuttlesh).Zrinka ivuioptometristSIYP: Your spot for drinking coee, going out at night?Zrinka: Zlatna Vrata, cafes along the waterfront. SIYP: A place to relax?Zrinka: Bavice, njan and Marjan beaches.SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?Zrinka:MakarskaRiviera,Bilinalbeachontheislandof Korula.SIYP: A place for shopping?Zrinka: Small shops around the city center.SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?Zrinka: Paticada with gnocchi. Photo by Ivana StaneiSplit vodic - 7.indd 16 6.6.2014. 17:54:01Summer 201417facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketRestaurantsfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketINTERNATIONALACI GRAOWithaviewoftheACImarinafromitsdiningroom,the Aci Grao has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled sh dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with ne wine as you linger over the views and visit the ci-gar bar. Parking is free.QC-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21)398560,restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com,www.adriatic-graso.com.Open10:00-24:00.(70-125kn). PAGBWAPETITApetitisgearedbothvisuallyandculinarilytowardsa modernaudience.Therestaurant,beautifullysetonthe rstoorofthe15thcenturyPapaliPalace,hasbeauti-fulbarestonewallshighlightedwithanupliftinggreen colour,andisfurnishedwithairysimplicity.Dalmatian classicsarepreparedinapleasinglysimplewaywithjust atwisttobringthemuptodate.Therearevegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI-2, ubieva5,tel.(+385-21)332549/(+385-)09817307 36,apetit.split@gmail.com,www.apetit-split.hr.Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 120kn). PJA6GWBISTRO TOCurlupamongthegreeneryandstonewallsofthiscozy littleterrace,decoratedwithsailboatpicturesandhang-ingplants.Oersavegetarianmenu,suchasgrilledtofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti withsalsa.Formeatlovers,chickenspaghetti,gulaand sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaa cook-ie cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ-3/K-3, egvia 1,tel.(+385-21)488409,bistrotoc@yahoo.com.Open 08:00 - 23:45. (50 - 150kn). PiAGBXWBOBANThe indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settingsfortheseafoodandgrilledmeatspreparedwith traditionalCroatianair.Thewinelistincludesonlythe best with labels such as Grgi, Zlatan otok and Dinga. This place does it all, and does it well.QE-3, Hektorovieva 49, tel.(+385-21)543300,info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com.Open10:00-24:00,Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). PA6GBWCARDOAtouchofclasswithanelegantandmoderndcor backedbysomecooltunestosettheatmosphere.With acuisinethatencompassesalloftheMediterraneans charmandawinelisttoimpress,thisvestarrestaurant isfaironthewalletandissuretoplease.QJ-1,Domov-inskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PiAGBWKADENADine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on ne Mediterraneancuisine.Reserveawindowseatoverlook-ing the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The sh platter ala Kadena isjustoneofthemanydelightsonoer.QE-3,Ivanapl. Zajca4,tel.(+385-21)389400/(+385-)0915226685, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com. Open09:00-24:00,Fri,Sat09:00-01:00.(60-130kn). PA6GBWSYMBOL KEYP Air conditioning A Credit cards acceptedT Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabledB Outside seating L Guarded parkingS Take away 6 Pet-friendlyW Wi J Old town locationSplit vodic - 7.indd 17 6.6.2014. 17:54:0518Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com18Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com RestaurantsLE MONDEDine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boastsatriminteriorandachoiceofterraces.Dalmatian sh and meat specialties are on the menu along with lo-calwine.ItstuckedawayinthebusyVarodistrictbut worththevisit.QH-1,Plinarska6,tel.(+385-21)3222 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). PiA6GBXNOSTRESS BISTROLocated on the famous, Narodni Trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of ower pots, adorning the terraceandwindowsills,givingitaromanticfeel.Agreat spottochatwithsomefriendsorviewthelatestfashion trends walking by the square, while nibbling on contem-porary Croatian dishes, largely inuenced from the Istrian region,suchaswasabitunaondicedtomatoes,shrimp ontruecreamcheeseorbeeflletsteakwithcreamy saronsauce.Duringthesummerseason,itsopenuntil 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI-2, Iza Loe 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88. Open 07:30 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). A6BXWZINFANDELS FOOD & WINE BARAccordingtotheowners,theywantedtheinteriortobe bothindustrialandrusticlookingandittrulylooksex-quisite. Importantly, theyve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines andimpeccableservice.Itistuckedawayinaquietlittle alleyclosetotheDiocletiansPalace.QJ-2,Marulieva2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, zinfandelsplit@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (65 - 130kn). PiJA6GBXWPIZZAGUTYouvegottomakeabitofaneorttogethereforits right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the depart-mentstorePrimaGradandtakethestreetontheright. After50m,turnleftandtakeanimmediateleftagain. ThereyoullndGut,atraditionalpizzeriawithdelec-table wood-re oven pizzas.QJ-1, Slavieva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (32 - 55kn). PA6GWMASLINAA cute little restaurant thats a tad hard to nd; we suggest you follow the signs that are o Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is lled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolledinpancetta.QI-2,Teutina1A,tel.(+385-21)3149 88,konmaslina@net.hr.Open11:00-24:00,Mon,Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PA6GBWSEAFOODJUGOFishdominatesthemenuandyoucangetitcookedto yourliking.Dineinorventureoutontotheterracewith magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACIMarinaareonlyasteppingstoneawaymakingthe walkontheRivaeversopleasant.QC-3,UvalaBaluni bb,tel.(+385-21)398900,www.restoranjugo.com. Open10:00-24:00,Fri,Sat10:00-01:00.(50-120kn). PiA6GBWWINE BARSKLUB GURMANA I HEDONISTAA fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dal-matianwines,authenticsouvenirsandgiftpackages! Thebarissetinatraditionalstonebuilding,perfect forwineandonlyminutesfromtheRiva.Theowner Igor is quite the connoisseur, he does oer wine tast-ingsaccompaniedwithvariouslocaldelicacies.QK-3,Kuzmanieva13,tel.(+385-)0913803966, domenico_split@yahoo.com.Open10:00-22:00. NGBWPARADOXThishasDalmatiawrittenalloveritwithover100 winesand20orsocheesesthatareprimarilylocal produce.Pickandchoosewhateversuitsyourtaste buds.QI-1,PoljanaTinaUjevia2,tel.(+385-21) 395854.Open09:00-24:00,Sun18:00-24:00. PJAGBXWSplit vodic - 7.indd 18 6.6.2014. 17:54:05Summer 201419facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketRestaurantsfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketMISTRALBe lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks. Thebarisliterallyonthebeachandpacksrefreshments ofeverysortimaginable.Ifyourepeckish,Mistralserves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF-3,PutTrstenika19(RadissonBluResort, Split),tel.(+385-21)303030,info.split@radissonblu.com,www.radissonblu.com/resort-split.Open12:00- 23:00. (100 - 700kn). PTA6LEGBXWNOTROMOHeresyourchancetosampleatypicalCroatianmenuof seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Notromo isknownasoneoftheclassiestrestaurantsinthearea and youll be charged accordingly for the privilege of din-inghere.Thepaintingshangingonthewallsaddtothe ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.QI-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr,www.restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P6NGBWPOSEJDONKonobearetinytypebar/restaurantsthatoerlocalDal-matianspecialties,andthisisofnoexceptionwithan assortmentofmeat,freshshandpastadishesonoer. Its located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass Ispod ure (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PiJA6GBWZRNO SOLIThisrestauranthasclasswrittenalloverit.Newtothe scene,itisstylishbothinandout,itislocatedattheACI Marinaandhaslovelyviewsoftheyachts.Thecuisineis Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will denitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round!QC-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (80 - 100kn). PiA6GBXWTRADITIONALFIFELongregardedassomethingofashrinetotraditional Dalmatianhomecooking,Fifeisaperenniallypopular meetingpointforhungrylocaljournalists,writersand actors.Expectbig,tastyandinexpensiveportionsofsh stew,paticada(beefcookedinawinestewandserved with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried sh and stued paprika.Fifesonlydrawbackisitspopularitywithtour-istguide-bookwriters,whohavepraisedtheplaceso muchinrecentyearsthatitcanbediculttogetaseat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH-3, Trumbieva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (30 - 70kn). Pi6NGBXSplit vodic - 7.indd 19 6.6.2014. 17:54:0620Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com20Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com RestaurantsGREGO LEVANTECharminglittlerestaurant,beamedceilingsandanorigi-nal stone wall as part of the minimalist dcor! That aside, thefoodisCroatianwithacreativetwist,lotsoffresh-nessaboutitandwesuggesttherisottowithcuttlesh orshrimp.Candlelittablesgiveitsparkandtheservice isA+.QD-3,Bosanska2,tel.(+385-)0912042222, grego.levante012@gmail.com.Open12:00-23:30. PJ6NGBXWKOD JOZEKonoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy aair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (pro-videdyourmomhappenstobeaCroatianwomanfrom Dalmatia)atadecentprice.Theinteriorisdoneupwith rugged,satisfyinglyheavywoodtablesandchairsand the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ-2, Sredmanuka 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PA6GBWOTARIJA U VIAKOVIWithanelocationjuststepsawayfromBavicebeach, thisisafamily-runbistroservingupsomeofthebest traditionalfareinthecity.Dalmatianfavouritessuchas tripe,saucedmeatballs,beanstewandsaltycodllout anextensivemenu,althoughyoucanoptforfancysh and lobster dishes if youre in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a signi-cant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, an-cientkitchenutensilsandblack-and-whitephotosofold Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.QD-3, Prilaz brae Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn). PA6GBXWPIMPINELLAAcosysmallkonobaonZentawhichispartofafam-ilyhouse.Themenuincludesgrilledmeals,paticada, roastlambwithvegetablesandmuchmore.QE-3, Spinieva2a,tel.(+385-21)389606/(+385-)091 1213014,catering@pimpinella.hr,www.pimpinella.hr.Open09:00-24:00,Sun10:00-17:00.(45-70kn). PiA6EGBXWPERUNA cute buet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery oers re-ned local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the inte-rior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.QH-2, perun 3, tel. (+385-21)346999,damabanovic@yahoo.com.Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PJAGBTRATORRIA TINELTryoutsomedeliciousDalmatianspecialitiesamongthe stonewallsandwhitewoodentables,barandcredenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. Its a great place toeatwhenyourenotsurewhatyoureinthemoodfor sincethemenuhasalargevarietyofchoicestosatisfy everyones cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of sh or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyedforstarters.Tortelliniwithfourcheeses,home-madegnocchiwithtomatoandbasilsauce,greenpasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course. QH-2, Tomia Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, tinelsplit@net.hr,www.trattoria-tinel.com.Open08:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn). PiA6GBXWUJE OIL BARWalk in and its hard not to feel the cosiness of the rst Cro-atian olive oil bar, a place for ne wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingre-dients coming through. The one thing that doesnt change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and oers a truly amazingculinaryexperience.QJ-2,Dominisova3,tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, oilbar@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PiJA6GBWKONOBA LEUTThis pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it oers goodqualityhome-stylecooking.AclassicofDalmatian cuisine is paticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttleshed cooked with broad beans. We partic-ularly enjoyed a big bowl of kuice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.QH-2/3, Sirievia 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PiA6GBWKONOBA VAROItssituatedinasmallalleynexttoMarmontovaStreet withaninteriordrapedincreativeshnets.Themenu mayseemordinarybutthefoodissuretosatisfyyour taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from thepeka(grill);ortrytheblue(oily)shoroctopus.Its atadpriceybutpopularwithlocalsandthewinelistis endless.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com.Open09:00-24:00. (30 - 150kn). PAGBWSplit vodic - 7.indd 20 6.6.2014. 17:54:11Split vodic - 7.indd 21 6.6.2014. 17:54:1322Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com22Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com RestaurantsVEGETARIANMAKROVEGAIf youre in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or vegyoullndthemallhere,alongwithfreshlysqueezed fruitandvegetablejuices.Theveggiesarehomegrown ororganic.QI-2,Letina2,tel.(+385-21)394440, makrovega108@gmail.com, www.makrovega.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 60kn). PNGBXWUP CAFAnultra-modern,chicoasisofhealthyfoodandnatural beverages,createdusingseasonalandorganicingredi-ents,withoutanyadditives.Thishealthycuisine,oersa huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, su-shi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes withcheese.Allnaturalsweetstomunchonfordessert, such as a bajadera biscuits, raaello squares, microbiologi-cal nougat squares, taste great along with a Bazara arabic coee, bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 -17:00,Sun08:00-15:00.(35-45kn).PiNGBXWETHNICBISER ORIJENTAClassicChinesedishesatsupergoodportions.Theloca-tionisalittleoddsincetherestaruantissituatedonthe fth oor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interiorisperfectoandtheviewmakesupforallthat.A mere 10 minute walk from the ardin Park.QD-2, Bihaka 2a/V,tel.(+385-21)486776,www.biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PABBISTRO SAMURAIOpened last year and has given Dalmatia a touch of Asia. Convenientlysituatedinthecitycentreandjustacross theHotelBellevue,themenuoersavastrangeofsushi andjudgingbythecuisineandinterior,onecanexpect thecompleteJapaneseexperienceinfood,diningand culture.QI-2,BanaJosipaJelaia1,tel.(+385-21)78 6640,otomako@hotmail.com,www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). PAGWKEBAP & MEZE BAR ISTAHEastmeetswestwithatastyselectionofmeze,Turkish delicaciesandkebabstobehad-Halalcertied!Food isnottheonlyattractionwithauthenticTurkishteaand coee on the menu. Positioned outside of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar has a relaxed and cosy atmosphereaswellasaminiterrace.QC-1,PutSupavla 1,tel.(+385-21)380640,info@istah.hr,www.istah.hr. Open 10:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00. (15 - 29kn).facebook.com/splitinyourpocketSplit vodic - 7.indd 22 6.6.2014. 17:54:17Summer 201423facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketLocal Flavourfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketFOOD MARKETSWhen it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirssimple,freshandgrownlocally. Therearenoexotic spicesorcomplexpreparations,justnaturalavours.And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fan-tastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers market and sh market, or as Spliani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the pekarija (pesh kah ria). Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the pekarijaisclosetotheformershingportofMatejuka, whilePazarisneartooneofthemainroadssincemost of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is veryclosetothebusstationandtheferryport,soifyou canspareafewminutesbeforeleavingforyourfavourite island you can stock up on veg since its at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. Its a gathering place for people from islands like Bra, Hvar and olta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Katelas. All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in theshadeoftheeasternwallofDiocletianspalace.Here you can nd everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried gs, lemons, grapes and pome-granates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smell-ing tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach andchard,aubergines,carrots,courgettes,goatsand sheepscheeses,homemadejamsandpreserves,liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. Itsaveritablecornucopiaofavoursandcolours,gar-nishedwiththelivelybanterofthesalespeoplewhoare hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers have been feeding the Spliani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so its sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go downtowardstheendoftheday.Nowyouvegotallof your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, its time to pick out a nice piece of sh at the sh market. The pekarija islocatedsmackbanginthemiddleofMarmontova,the nicemarble-pavedstreetatthewesternendoftheRiva. You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the airherekeepstheshhygienicastherearenoies.The shmarketopensearly,withthemorningcatchcoming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the bestpiecestoenduponyourgrill.Dalmatianpeopledo noteatexpensiveshlikedentex,johndoryortheother prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller sh like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid,seabream,mackerelandredmullet.Theseshare not only easy on the pocket, theyre tasty and healthy too -thebenetsofoilyshlikesardineandmackerelarere-nowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh sh? Just lookforshinyscales,cleareyesandrmesh.Checkthe gillstoo,whichshouldbebrightred.Nowyouboughtit, youwillhavetogutit.Gross?Askthepersonbehindthe counter,iftheyrenottoobusytheymightoblige.Ifnot, best stick to the restaurants. Local sherman from the island of Vis Jurica JoniSplit vodic - 7.indd 23 6.6.2014. 17:54:2224Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com24Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Local FlavourProbably my puppy fat and my evident satisfaction while eatingconvincedmymotherthatIcoulddonowrong. AndIwasnthalfbad.Shewouldhandmealist,andId havethefreedomtowanderaroundthetables,weigh-ingupthefruitandvegetables,carefulnottofallforthe honeyed tones of a mountain accent which reminded me of my grandparents, or the equally melliuous island dia-lect.Whatgavemyroleevenmoreimportancewasthe factthatmymotherwouldgivemejustenoughmoney to ensure that if I spent wisely, a couple of dinars (that was the currency in those days) would be left over, so that after twoorthreetripstoPazarIdhaveenoughforacomic. Even such a young age it was worth being shrewd, being satisedwithacheapicecreamfromtheold-fashioned machinesandrememberingtheimportantthingsfrom theheadlinesAntecalledoutwhensellingthenewspa-persthethingsthatwereimportantindeedbecause they were the reason why people bought newspapers. A smallboycouldfeelawfullybigcarryingbagsofgrocer-ieshomefromPazar.Andawfullyproudwhenthenext dayhisclassmateswouldpinchhissandwichwiththe hunterssalami,whichyoucouldonlybuyinthekioskat the bottom end of Pazar. And endlessly attered when his mother rst said to him, Come on, lets take a walk at the sh market. ThePekarija,theshmarket,a mythicalplacewhichyoujusthave tostrollby,youdonthavetobuya thing.Itsenoughtocatchthescent andknowthatyoureapartofthat sea, that land, that city.....To leave Pazar, to leave for the big wide world was easy at rst. Whenyoureastrappingteenagerthosethingsdont seem to matter. There are Pazars in other places, you think naively. Buttheresalwayssomeconnection,itsaliveaslongas yourmothertellsyouduringaneveningphonecallabout todayscatch,orshetellsyouhowyoucannowbuy soparnik, that miraculous delicacy dreamed up by the poor people of the hinterland, by the slice, but its not even close to the one my late grandmother baked in her replace.Howevergoodthosereplacementmarketsmightbe, howevercolourfulandfullofscent,itsnowclearthatI miss that passion, that uncertainty whether a kuna will be leftoverforacomic,andImissthoseshoutsindialects which my ocially-proscribed accent never picked up.Whymusttheyshoutso?,Iremembersheaskedwhen she rst realised that in Split, on the market, you cant buy less than half a kilo, and nobody with any sense even asks. Itsembarrasing,forgoodnesssake,andtheygiveyoua goodtickingo,evenifyourethedaughterofthePresi-dent himself. The Pazar of My Childhood by Sinia PaviPazar!Thestomach,thebelly,thegutsofthecity!The Pazarofmychildhood,eventhough,myfathersays,its changedlittleovertheyears.Itsstillendlesslycolourful, fullofmelodioussoundastheladiesbehindthetables shout over each other to bring in the buyers. Herearethesmellsoflife,unbeatablescents,ofcabbage souringinbarrels,smokydriedmeat,unwaxedoranges that spray out juice as you run your ngernail over the skin. Its the same, but dierent, dierent because when youre small everythings dierent, and when you grow up every-thingismoreorlesssentiment.Whenyougrowupyou realise:itwastheuniversityoflife,ofgourmets,ofglut-tons, of epicureans, of deliciousness.....My father used to set o for work at dawn, my brother was smallandmymotherwasasolicitousmotherwhotried to squueze everything in despite working morning shifts onedayandafternoonshiftsthenext.Itturnedoutthat thoseinconvenienthourshadtheirbrightside.Because she couldnt make it, it would often be me who headed o to Pazar for our groceries. Split vodic - 7.indd 24 6.6.2014. 17:54:26Summer 201425facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketLocal Flavourfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketSOPARNIK Soparnikisanold-fashionedDalmatiandishdating back to the time before the Turks invaded the region. It is a simple dish made by lling two layers of llo dough withswisschard,onions,parsley,garlicandoliveoil. Traditionally, it was prepared on round wooden plates over a stone hearth on days for fasting, such as Good Friday,ChristmasEveortheFeastofAll Saints.Soparnikcomesfromtheformer Peasants Republic, Poljica, which exist-ed in the late Middle Ages, near modern-dayOmi,andwaspreparedtotreat guestsandfriends.Overtheyears, ithasbecomeasymbolofold Poljica.Oncea meal forpeasants,itisnowapresti-gious delicatessen.And what seemed to her like rudeness was for me the best poem ever, the best song.While you sing the praises of their greens they praise your youthandgoodlooks,evenifitsclearthatyouleftyour youthandgoodlookssomewherebythekioskwiththe hunterssalami.Itsthesamegamewhereveryougo. Whereveryouendupyoutrytocooksaucesoittastes just the same as that small boy remembers, who knew no greater satisfaction than to arrive home from school, break o a hunk of bread and dip it right into the saucepan be-fore his mother caught him.....- Dad, has anything changed? asks the emigr son, him-self now a father.- Almost nothing, says Dad.Almostnothing.Telltheyouthoftodaythatthereare orangesandoranges,thosefromthesupermarketsand thoseonthetablesatPazar,andhowtheyarenowhere near the same thing and how they cant be, even though their mother tells them theres no dierence. To have your ownstallholderforeggs,aladyforchard,abutcherwho wont cheat you. A lady at the sh market wholl give you abarelydiscernablenodtoshowwhichshisfreshand which isnt... Thats a matter of survival, of growing up, of evolution. Pazar, the sh market, coee, newspapers. Con-found it, thats it. Theres no recession, no accounting law, noministerofnancewhocantakeitaway.Aslongas theres the human race there will be Pazar!LOCAL DISHESChock-a-blockwithallthisfoodandinuencesfromvari-ouspartsofDalmatiaandCroatia,Splitisrichinsimple tastydishesyouhaveneverheardofbutonceyoutaste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tast-ing all this if you dont have the good fortune of being in-vitedtosomeoneshousewheremamawillsurpriseyour taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some prut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard days work). Youll nd these kinds of restaurantsscatteredaroundtheoldcityandthemarket. Anotheroptionistoscheduleyourvisitaroundthemany gastronomiceventshappeningallsummeraroundSplit, mostofthembasedonacertaindishoringredient.See our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Localpeopletendtostickverymuchtowhatsaroundat agiventimeofyearratherthanrelyingongreenhouse-grownproduceorimports.So,inthespring,lookoutfor dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans pre-paredinamilliondierentways,forexamplewithlamb, withsquidinkMmm,itmakesushungryjustthinking about it. Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh sh simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. Incoolerseasonsmeatcomesmoretothefore,often cookedwithvegetablesinastew-typedish.Lookoutfor aramabaiiaspecialityoriginatinginSinj,alittleway inland. Thesearelittlesouredcabbageparcelscontaining beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked driedmeats.These,ortheircousinssarma,areamustat everyspecialoccasion,asisaspit-roastlamb.Ifyoukeep outasharpeyeyoumightcomeacrossapogaahailing fromtheislandof VisorHvar,aattishbreadcakecon-tainingamixtureofsaltedanchoviesandonion,plusto-mato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a atbread stued with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might nd onsaleatPazarmarket.Onasweeternote,lookoutfor compressedcakesofdriedgs(smokvenjak),commonly made at home and truly delicious. A speciality from the is-land of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though youll probably have to make a pilgrim-age to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to nd it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for raole. These are little half-moonsmadefromalmondsandmaraschinoliqueur.Leg-end has it they were invented by a girl named Raola who wasimprisonedintheKamerlengofortressuntilherlove, aTrogirnoble,cametorescueher.Shebakedhimthese little cakes til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude.Photo by Radmanove Mlinice ArchivesSplit vodic - 7.indd 25 6.6.2014. 17:54:2926Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com26Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com Local FlavourCULINARY EVENTS01.06 SUNDAY - 30.09 TUESDAYKOPAINA LAMB FESTIVALEvery Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 dierent specialities made from lamb, includ-ing lambs liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host ofdierentspecialities.Besuretoreserveyourtable- itsverybusy.QKonobaKopaina,DonjiHumac,Bra island.16.08 SATURDAYHRAPAUA NIGHTThe village of Dol has its very own living legend - a lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of Hrapaua cake. Some may pointoutthatHrapauaisonlymadeonBraandin particularinDolandthatthisisthereforenoachieve-mentatall,butwedefyanyonetotastethecakeof Barica and tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of mak-ingcake.HerHrapauaisacrescendoofnuts,lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a caloric atom bomb that induces an intense sugar rush and has been named DolViagrawithgoodreason.TryBaricasaward-win-ning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festi-val Hrapaua Night.QDol, Bra island.06.09 SATURDAYIZ SOLINSKOG LONCAThegastronomichappeningFromSolinsPotsees peoplecompeteinpreparingdishesbasedonlocal ourgroundatalocalwatermill-themlinica.Dishes includehome-madepastainmeatsauces,breadsand cakes.Carbsgalore!QGapinamlinica,Solin,www.solin-info.com.END OF SEPTEMBERDAYS OF VARENIKAn unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have beenmadeonBrafor2000years-itwasmentioned duringRomantimes.Itsmadebyboilingredwine downtoaconcentrate,whichisthenstoredinbottles andaddedtoallsortsoffoods,sweetandsavoury,to impart a unique and rich avour. During the time of the Varenik festival at the end of September, dishes are pre-pared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the is-lands restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.QBra island.OCTOBERDANI BIKLE I BIKLIJADAThis inland town is home to a special dish, bikla, a combi-nation of goats milk and young local wine. This is served alongwithotherlocalspecialtieslikefrogsinparsley andsnails.Allkindsofoldcraftsandcultureareexhib-itedandhomemadeproduceissold.QVrgorac,www.tzvrgorac.hr.Hrapaua cake - Postira Tourist Board ArchivesBikla, Vrgorac Tourist Board ArchivesSplit vodic - 7.indd 26 6.6.2014. 17:54:34Summer 201427facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCoffee & Cakesfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCAFESAKTUELLWithitssuperequippedinterior,moderndesignandre-laxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed whenvisitingSplit.BesidesoeringLavazzacoee,they alsopreparedierenttypesofpastriesandbreakfast throughoutsummer.LargeLCDscreensprovidetheper-fect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD-3, Mile Gojsalia 1,tel.(+385-)0958188888.Open06:00-24:00. PiA6BXWGALERIJAOnce you are seated pick and choose from a whole range ofcoeesortsthatgodownwellwiththewalnutcakes, strudels,frappesandchocolatefonduesonoer.Those pursuingsomethingstrongerhavenumerousfruitcock-tails,local/internationalbeers,winesandliquorstokeep you jostling!QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJNGBWKAVANA FIGARight from the Voni trg, in the narrow passage youll nd thishipbarwithcomfortablyttedandcolourfulchairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industri-ally tted interior. The cool exterior and dcor is adjoined by the varied oer of light meals, from classical breakfast andsaladstopastaandsh,andallatvalueformoney. As the day goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cocktails and enjoy this place and its complete oer which is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI-2, Bu-vinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6NGBXWLIBARLibar in local dialect means a book and though this isnt a library the caf interior is chock-full of handmade themed items.Cosyambianceindoorsandterraceviewsthatsay WOW.Watchsportingeventslive,respectablechoiceof beersandwinesatreasonableprices.QI-2,TrgFranje Tumana3,service@cafe-libar.com,www.cafe-libar.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJA6BXWLVXORA titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrancetothemausoleum(andtheonethatremains), Kavana Lvxors location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on oer match the quality of the location. Theres wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in for-eignlanguagesandabroadmenuthatincludesnormal caffare,pluscocktails,sandwichesandbreakfastinthe morning.Inthewarmermonths,cushionsareplaceson the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.QJ-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82,lvxor@lvxor.hr,www.lvxor.hr.Open08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAGBXWBIRACItissaidthatthisispossiblythebestplaceinBavice foracoee.ThiselevatedSplittrendybeachspothas awonderfulterraceandaperfectviewofthebeach. biracknowninEnglishastheWartycrab,hidesduring thedayandcomesoutatnighttohunt!So,youbethe judge!QD-3,Preradovievoetalite1b,akrapante@gmail.com,www.zbirac.hr.Open07:00-01:00,Fri,Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PGBXWSWEET TREATSBOBIS-RIVAASplitinstitution,Bobishasbeenprovidingthecitys citizenswithdelectableeatssince1950.Thereareaload of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as its right on the Riva. You can matchyourcoeewithanappropriatepastryorchoose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI-3,Obalahrv.narodnogpreporoda20.Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. PNGBCREME DE LA CREMEYou have a sweet tooth and the craving has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest pastry shops in town. Fantasticcakes,homemadepastries,anddessertsserved with coee, liqueurs and juices. Its minimalistic interior in-cludes some trendy retro details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Kara-man, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet.QI-2, Iliev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 23, www.cremedelacreme.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PJAGBXWTRADICIJAThisistheoldestconfectioneryintownandwithgrand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakesandothersweetspecialtiesareallcookedtotradi-tion - just as the name itself!QI-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21)361070.Open08:00-21:30,Sat08:00-20:30. Closed Sun. NSplit vodic - 7.indd 27 6.6.2014. 17:54:3828Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com28Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com NightlifeThe nightlife in Split is booming this time of year with Matejuka the favourite for young people ready for a night out; this is an area on the beachfront where crowds gather, chat and mingle along the stone walls whilst having a drink or two with friends. Its a typical ritual before hitting the town and venturing out to famous city bars, pubs and nightclubs. Just so you know, the party atmosphere never ends in the streets behind the Pjaca, the Geto or in Bavice. BARSDVA TONA BARTypical pub decor oering the biggest variety of beers and draughts from one side of the palace to the other! Classics such as Guinness, La Choue, Duvel and even the hard-to-nd Brooklyn Chocolate Stout appear. The old piano gives aspecialtouch,low-keyatmosphere,greatmusicwitha very retro feel to it.QJ-2, Carrarina poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 50. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.PJ6GBXWGAGAIn the shade just behind Loa (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this caf has its own square where a daily coeecanbearefreshingtreatamongstthesing-song chatteroftheinterestinglocalfolk.QI-2,IzaLoe5,tel. (+385-21)348257.Open07:00-01:00,Fri,Sat07:00- 02:00. PNBXWGHETTOFurry,uyseatscomplementedbyafunkanddisco soundtrackcontributetoarelaxed,ifnotslightlyquirky feel.Themuralsonthewallsarededicatedtobirdsand bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ-2, Dosud 10. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PJ6ENBXWLIBRARY BAR MARCVS MARVLVSAbeautifulwineandwhiskeybarsetinoneofthecitys most important landmarks, the birthplace of the father of Croatianliterature,the15thcenturypoetMarkoMaruli. ItslocatedrightinfrontoftheCityMuseumandonlya minute away from Peristil. During summer, its oer also in-cludes small tapas meals as well as entertainment theme nightssuchastangonightsorpoetryevenings.Includes a terrace and separate smoking area.QD-3, Papalieva 4, marvlvs@yahoo.com, www.marcvsmarvlvs.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJBXWMERITA & DINOMerita&Dinosqueezesagreatdealintoasmallspace, withspiralstaircaseslinkinganupstairs-downstairsjum-bleofexpertlymis-matchedfurnishingsandbrightinte-riorcolours.Theresplentyofloungeyfurnituretoslump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guin-ness.QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P6NBXWNA KANTUNUClaustrophobicorange-colouredspacewhichahuge HajdukSplitsymboldominatingonewall-whichwillat least ll you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if youve pickedupanyofthelocalsportingpatriotismsinceyour arrivalinthecity.NaKantunusrealadvantagehowever istheold-townlocation,withoutdoorseatinginasmall square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatianalesworthdrinking)alongsideCzech-brewed Lobkowicz,itsalsoanoutstandingplaceforabeer.QJ-2,Dominisova9,tel.(+385-21)344191.Open07:00- 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6BXWST RIVAShaken,notstirred!Thiscocktailbarisprimarilylocated alongthecitywallsandisanidealplacetorelaxonhot summer nights. Urban & 4, A Sustipan Nights Dream ArchivesSplit vodic - 7.indd 28 6.6.2014. 17:54:39Summer 201429facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketNightlifefacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketCASINOCASINO PLATINUMLocatedwithin5*hotel''Atrium'',veryclosetocity center. Oers live games, slot machines, poker tourna-mentsandsportbetting.Freeparkinginsideunder-groundgarage,moneyexchangeoce,barlounge.QD-2,Domovinskograta49a,tel.(+385-21)274 800,www.casinoplatinum.hr.Open00:00-24:00. PGXWIts greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva andport,oneofthebetterplacestochillwhilstsipping beverages.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18,info.striva@gmail.com,www.st-riva.com.Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJGBWCLUBSHEDONISTExclusivityisthekeyandthiscafbydayslashnightclub by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract somefamousinhabitants.DJsplayvariedmusicgenres sopreparetodancethenightaway.QE-3,PutFirulabb, tel. (+385-) 098 64 41 04, josip.gama@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PABXWHEMINGWAYNope,yourfancytrainerswontcutithere,darlings.In factyourplimsoleswontevenmakeitpastthedoor. ThisisSplitsmostopulentdrinkinghole(wearetoldto believe)wherebartenderswithslickmoves(remember TomCruiseinCocktail?)makeameanMai-Tai.QC-2,VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hemingway.hr,www.hemingway.hr.Open08:00- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PAGBXWOHARASmallgroupsofSplitsyounghell-raisersmarktheway totheirpartyingMecca,abeach-sidenightclubwith clubhitsthrobbingatmaximumvolumeandpotentially hangover-inducingdrinkspecials.Ifyoureinthemood foraquiet,relaxingweekendnightout,lookelsewhere. Aloungeandbarareaprovidestemporaryescapefrom theclubcrush.QE-3,UvalaZenta3,info.ohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBXVANILLAMatchthelookofSplitsbeautifulpeoplewhofrequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before mak-ing the fteen-minute walk from the old town. Youll nd two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor.QC-2, Mediteranskih ig-ara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 163 62 72, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. PAGBXSplit vodic - 7.indd 29 6.6.2014. 17:54:4030Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com30Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com SightseeingESSENTIAL SPLITDIOCLETIANS PALACE (DIOKLECIJANOVA PALAA)A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from thehillssurroundingthecitywillquicklyestablishwhy practicallyanyemperorwouldbemorethanhappyto locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirementhome.Constructionbeganin293andwas completedintenyearsandutilizedavarietyofmate-rialsfromallaroundtheregion,includingwhitestone shipped from the island of Bra to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletians palace has become thequintessentiallivingmuseum,asmodernshops andcitizensresidewithinthewallsoftheancientpal-acecomplex.Thepartofthepalaceknownasthe basementwasbuiltduringthereignofDiocletianto support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, wasunexploredandclutteredupwiththedetritusof thousands of years of history. Now, its been cleaned and openedforvisitors.Becauseitmirrorstheoorplanof theoriginalimperiallivingquarters,avisittothebase-ment can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is dicult work, the steps leading up and out of the north-ern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town,withpeopleleisurelysippingcoee,surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J-2.MARJAN PENINSULA (MARJAN)When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatias second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varo up to the wooded heights of the Mar-jan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walkingorbiking),fragrantforestsandbeaches.Anaf-ternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Caf Vi-dilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home toseveralpointsofinterest,includingtheremainsofa 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels fromthe13thand14thcenturies.Eventually,asetof stepsleadsuptoTelegrinwhich,at178m,isthehigh-est point on the peninsula. The islands of Bra, Hvar and olta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B-2/3.RIVAIf you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian Na-tional Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure topointyouintherightdirection.TheRivaisabroad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. Itsthedefactogatheringspot,dayandnight,forthe peopleofSplittoengageinsomeoftheactivitiesthat havebeenhonedtoaneartinCroatia:chattingover acupofcoeeandpeople-watching.SplitsRivacon-tinues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect forastroll,coee,orrelaxingonthedeckchairs.QI-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.THE PERISTYLE AND THE CATHEDRAL OF ST DOMNIUS (PERISTIL I KATEDRALA SV. DUJMA)Elevenofthetwelvegranitesphinxesthatoriginally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathe-dral,butthetwelfthremains,animposingreminderof the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperors tomb has long since disappeared, per-hapsre-usedinthecreationoftheChristianizedmau-soleum. Remnants of Diocletians rule do remain, in the formofportraitsoftheemperorandhiswifethatcan be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign ofanotherenemyofearlyChristians,EmperorNero.In grandhistoricalirony,thecathedralwasdedicatedto oneofDiocletiansvictims,therstBishopofSalona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb thebelltowertogetalovelyviewofthesurrounding area and the nearby port.QJ-2.VELI VAROSituated west of the old town, Veli Varo is a neighbour-hood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristicofDalmatia.Itswellworthtakingastroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH-2.Inside the Vestibule - Photo by Rick DeMeisSplit vodic - 7.indd 30 6.6.2014. 17:54:45Summer 201431facebook.com/SplitInYourPocketSightseeingfacebook.com/SplitInYourPocketMUSEUMSARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOKI MUZEJ)Even though its situated north of the town centre, Splits archaeologicalmuseumiscertainlyworththetrip.The museumwasfoundedin1820,makingittheoldestmu-seuminCroatia.Themuseumscontentscomemainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thou-sandsofstoneepitaphsfromthatregion.Alsofeatured areceramicsandglassofGreekandRomanorigin,along withhundredsofotherobjectsmadefrombone,metal andglassfromvarioushistoricalperiodsincludingpre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC-2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus.hr,www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski.Open09:00-14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.CROATIAN MARITIME MUSEUM (HRVATSKI POMORSKI MUZEJ)Spendallyourtimecocoonedintheoldtownandyoull miss out on many of Splits more quirky delights, of which themaritimemuseumisundoubtedlyone.Itslocated insidetheGripefortress,builtbytheVenetiansinthe sixteenthcenturytokeeptheOttomansatbay,andsub-sequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Con-tents include a simple but compelling collection of model shipsthroughtheages,rangingfromVenetiangalleysto twentieth-centurycruiseliners.Alsolyingaroundareall mannerofnauticalequipment,lighthouselanternsand navaluniforms.Moststrikingexhibitistheroomdevot-edtotheground-breakingtorpedoesdevelopedbythe Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. Tonisho,youcanlookaroundanoutdoordisplayof beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.QK-2,Glagoljaka18(GripeFortress),tel.(+385-21) 347346,hpms@hpms.hr,www.hpms.hr.Open09:30 -19:30,Sunopenbypriorarrangement.September- October Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 20kn.ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM SPLIT (ETNOGRAF-SKI MUZEJ SPLIT)If youre into making an in-depth examination of Croatias cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, thenyoureinluck.SplitsEthnographicMuseumwas foundedin1910andfeaturesawiderangeoftraditional Dalmatianembroideryandclothing,plusexhibitsdetail-ing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pot-tery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ-3,Severova1,tel.(+385-21)344161,etnografski-muzej-st@st.t-com.hr,www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr.Open09:30-19:00,Sun09:00-13:00.September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.MUSEUM OF CROATIAN ARCHEOLOGICAL MON-UMENTS(MUZEJHRVATSKIHARHEOLOKIH SPOMENIKA)Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian ArchaeologicalMonumentshassurvivedaturbulenthis-torythathasseenthemuseumssitechangefrequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. Split vodic - 7.indd 31 6.6.2014. 17:54:4732Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com32Split In Your Pocket Split.inyourpocket.com SightseeingAtriptothemuseumscurrentlocation,openedin1976, willgiveyouthechancetoviewpartofthemuseums 3,000-piececollectionofsculpture,tools,weaponsand otheritemsspanningseveralperiods,withanemphasis on the Medieval.QA-3, etalite Ivana Metrovia 18, tel. (+385-21)323901/(+385-21)323905,muzej@mhas-split.hr,www.mhas-split.hr.Open09:00-13:00,17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.SPLIT CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA SPLITA)The Papali family settled in Split in the early 14th century and,whileintheprocessofbecomingoneofthecitys mostrespectedfamilies,builtasmallpalacetoserveas theirfamilyshome.Today,thepalaceplayshosttothe CityMuseumofSplit,theoriginsofwhichcanbetraced back to Dmine Papali and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has growninsubsequentyearstoincludevariouspaintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monu-mentsandstatuesthatwereoncepartsofbuildingsin Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numer-ous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ-2, Papalieva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr,www.mgst.net.Open09:00-21:00,Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.GALLERIESEMANUEL VIDOVI GALLERY (GALERIJA EMANUEL VIDOVI)Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-re-stored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidovi (1872-1953). Croa-tias leading post-impressionist, Vidovi was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, TrogirandtheItaliantownofChioggiaprovidingmost ofhissubjectmatter.Alongsideagoodcross-sectionof Vidovis uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artists former studio - including dolls, cu-rios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smaji. A Croatian-language lm aboutVidovislifecanbeseenonthetopoor-worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55/(+385-21) 36 01 65, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr,www.mgst.net.Open09:00-21:00,Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.METROVI GALLERY AND THE CRIKVINE - KATILACHoused in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Metrovi Gallery does a ne job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings asastonecuttersapprenticetoanexaltedpositionin the international art scene. Metrovis inuences ranged frommodernismtofolkartandancientGreeksculpture, producinganinstantlyrecognizableindividualstyle.The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works,alongsidereligiously-inspiredworksandintimate portraitsoffamilymembers.Metroviwasalsofamous forthehugeworksheproducedforpublicspaces,most notablythestatueofGrgurNinskiinSplit(seeLand-marks). After teaching in Zagreb Metrovi emigrated to theU.S,becomingaprofessorrstatSyracuseUniversity thenatNotreDame.HediedinSouthBend,Indianain 1962.A ve-minute walk further west along the same road is the Metrovis Crikvine - Katilac, a 16th-century sum-merhouseboughtbyMetroviin1939andconverted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artists most stunningcreation,acycleof28woodenreliefsbasedon thelifeofChrist.Theresultof35yearswork,thecycle incorporatesmotifsfromancient,medievalandmodern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece ofspiritualsculpture.QB-3,etaliteIvanaMetrovia 46/39,tel.(+385-21)340800,mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.May-September30OpenTue- Sun09:00-19:00.ClosedMonandhoildays.October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. ClosedMonandholidays.Admission15knChildren, 30kn Adults, 50kn Family.SPLIT ART GALLERY (GALERIJA UMJETNINA)Recentlyre-openedinitsbrand-newhome(arestored former hospital), Splits main art gallery boasts one of the Adriaticsmostabsorbingc