tempus issue 20

MECCANICHE VELOCI / Alfa Romeo 4C / Winter travel trends / luxury gifts / Arnold Schwarzenegger / SKI SPECIAL / Barakà jewellery / Watch snob / SUPERYACHTS

20

WATCHES YOU MUST OWN

and 10 future classics

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Frost of London, 108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF, United Kingdom020 3372 0108 | www.frostofl ondon.co.uk

Watch with linear power-reserve display, grade 5 titanium case. Sapphire crystal back.CORUM superlight titanium baguette-shaped movement (7 gr).

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Tempus is published monThly by AsTon GreenlAke publishinG lTd,

8Th floor, 6 miTre pAssAGe, london se10 0er. Tel: 020 3617 4688

EditorScott Manson

[email protected] 020 3617 4693Art DirectorJonny Hughes

[email protected] 020 3006 2122

Writer Alex Doak

[email protected] development Manager

Mitchell Finlay [email protected]

Business Development Director

Mark Edwards [email protected]

020 3617 4688Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit [email protected]

Account ManagerAshley Collin

[email protected]

Managing DirectorJay Boisvert

issue

TwenTy

Ask any arbiter of style and they’ll tell you that there is a definitive capsule wardrobe that every man should own. opinion varies on what it comprises – although the hipper types at Tempus have it narrowed down to 24 classic fashion pieces – but the gist is that, whatever your age, there are some key items that every self-respecting chap should own.

As you’ll see from the feature on page 66, the same holds true of horology. We’ve cherrypicked a basic repertoire of modern classics – watches that have stood the test of time – that any budding collector should seek out. These are watches so exceptional that they are still in production after decades and, fittingly, it could take all but the most well-heeled that long to assemble the collection. As the saying goes though, all good things come to he who waits.

Alternatively, if you’re looking to do a little timepiece-based crystal ball gazing, then let top watch writer Alex doak guide you around some predictions for future classics. you’ll find his selection on page 74.

elsewhere, we reveal some of london’s best shirtmakers, have a chat with the action movie icon Arnold schwarzenegger and admire the high-octane watch brand that is meccaniche Veloci. every passionate petrolhead with a penchant for fine watches should check out this thrilling italian brand on page 94.

We have this season’s best luxury travel covered too. from fabulous ski holiday ideas to sophisticated city breaks and paradise islands, our travel experts highlight the hottest winter trends right now. if you’re looking to escape this holiday season, your passport to pleasure starts on page 101.

enjoy the issue.

From the editor

Scott MansonEditor

Contributors

Alex barterWhen it comes to vintage watches, few can match Alex’s know-how. The former director of Sotheby’s watch department, he spent 15 years evaluating some of the world’s finest timepieces and on page 43 he reveals what he learned.

ken kesslerOne of Britain’s foremost watch journalists, Ken’s impeccable horological credentials make him the perfect choice to select the capsule collection of timepieces that everyone should own. See page 66 to read his must-have top ten.

Juliet kinsmanAs the editor-in-chief at Mr & Mrs Smith, Juliet is instinctive about what makes a hotel stay stylish, and her articles have appeared in publications from Condé Nast Traveller to The Independent. Check out her winter travel trends feature on page 123.

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prinTed by

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ONE of 11

CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANSPARENCE

CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANsPARENCE® Three of the world’s most renowned master watchmakers have collaborated on a world-first

combination of complications, featuring a laser-etched sapphire dial, hand-beveled cut-out bridges, precious finish chronograph bridge, one-

minute tourbillon, mono-push chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, and

patented precise moon phase indication on roller in a fully integrated mechanical movement. Shown in 18K red gold and limited to 11 pieces.

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Special thanks:Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOfficeEd Lawrenson

Inside issue twenty

- 2 0 -Take Me There Enjoy a paradise

island idyll at the Pangulasian Island Resort in the Philippines

- 2 5 -Luxury Briefing Because, it turns

out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

- 3 9 -Food and Drink From Chelsea to Mayfair, two more hot restaurants

worthy of your attention- 4 3 -

The Word Alex Barter on the world of vintage watches and Melissa

Porter on London’s luxury property boom - 47 -

The Watch Snob AskMen’s columnist pulls no punches when

solving your horological conundrums- 4 8 -

Auction Watch Our pick of the best pieces going under the hammer

this month- 5 0 -

Trendwatching The Frost of London director, Joseph Banin,

reveals what’s hot right now- 5 2 -

Sheer indulgence Gorgeously decadent gift ideas from Frost of

London, just in time for the holiday season

- 5 4 -Object of Desire The Arnold

& Son Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement is one showstopper of

a watch- 5 7 -

Style File: Shirts We kick off our new Style section by getting

the lowdown on some of London’s finest shirtmakers

- 6 1 -Good Times He’s back. Arnold

Schwarzenegger on success, growing old gracefully and, of course,

watches- 6 6 -

10 Watches You Should Own Wondering what should be part of

your essential collection? We reveal the must-have pieces, plus 10

further future classics

- 7 9 -Wish List With the festive season

soon upon us, Tempus offers its Christmas gift suggestions

- 9 4 -Driving Force We get the inside

track on Meccaniche Veloci, the Italian watch brand that takes its

design cues from the world of racing- 1 0 1 -

Beyond The Alps In the third and final installment of our ski

specials we take the road less travelled, looking at more far-flung

destinations - 1 1 3 -

The Chief Of Beef Marcus Verberne, head chef at London’s Roast restaurant, reveals some

kitchen secrets- 1 1 6 -

Men Only Think jewellery was only for the fairer sex? Read on to find out why Barakà has captured the imagination of every alpha male

- 1 2 3 -Winter Hot List From classic city

hotels to contemporary coastal cool, Tempus takes the pulse of the best in

winter luxury travel - 1 3 4 -

Pocket Rocket Why the Alfa 4C represents a return to form for the

legendary Italian car maker- 1 3 9 -

Stealth Wealth A visit to London’s Dukes hotel provides us with a

perfect James Bond moment- 1 4 3 -

Eyes On The Prize A fleet of iconic superyachts racing during

the America’s Cup? Tempus went dockside to watch the action

- 1 4 6 -Around Sound Discover the best in

mobile speaker technology with our selection of movable beats

- 1 4 9 -Passport To Pleasure How

Mallorca got its mojo back- 1 5 4 -

Moments in Time We reveal Longines role in the world’s first

nonstop transatlantic flight

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66

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S H I R T M A K E R S

emmettlondon.com

WWW. E MM E T T LONDON . COM

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Take me there

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Pangulasian Island Resort

- P H I L I P P I N E SBrand new to Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s unrivalled boutique portfolio is Pangulasian Island Resort. It boasts a spectacularly unspoilt setting, making for the perfect winter bolt-hole. Fronting a 750-metre white powder beach overlooking the bay, the resort offers 42 individual villas, each with a private balcony, either on the beach, in the forest, 17 metres above the ground, or with a private pool. With a marine sanctuary right on the doorstep, this place is also a diver’s dream. And with winter finally here in the UK, a daydreamer’s dream. slh.com

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Department stores: Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges

London retailers: Gotham (Notting Hill) - Staffan Tollgard (Grosvenor Waterside) - Hill House Interiors (Chelsea)Katherine Pooley (South Kensington) - Lewis & Co (Marylebone) - Mufti (Notting Hill)

Online: www.amara.com

www.baobabcollection.com

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Department stores: Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges

London retailers: Gotham (Notting Hill) - Staffan Tollgard (Grosvenor Waterside) - Hill House Interiors (Chelsea)Katherine Pooley (South Kensington) - Lewis & Co (Marylebone) - Mufti (Notting Hill)

Online: www.amara.com

www.baobabcollection.com

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World PremiereA new way in watchmakingChange the dial of your watch by turning the bezelThe movement and the date appear thanks to a ingenious optical patented system.

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Flying Saucer- A L FA R O M E O & T O U R I N G S U P E R L E G G E R AAll eyes are on Alfa Romeo’s beautiful 4C coupé at the moment (for a review, see p134), but slightly to the leftfield is this deeply covetable nod to Alfa’s past, marking the 60th anniversary of the Italian marque’s 1952 C52 Disco Volante (‘flying disc’). Touring Superleggera, a prestigious Milanese coachbuilding firm that has been designing lightweight bodywork for greats such as Aston Martin since 1928, has taken the Disco Volante’s distinctive bubble-cockpit and twin-jet-engine rear haunches, then crimped and smoothed them around the chassis of Alfa’s 8C Competizione – a supercar built in 500 examples from 2007 through 2010. touringsuperleggera.eu

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Because the best things in life aren't free

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A star is born - V E R T U Following swiftly on from Vertu’s uber-cool ‘Ti’ handset, handcrafted in material-of-the-moment titanium, the English luxury mobile brand has now unveiled the most contemporary and stylish product in its 15-year lifetime. � e new Constellation’s sleek, minimal form has been designed and engineered to appeal equally to male and female customers. Its 5.1" sapphire crystal – weighing more than 100 carats – � oods the entire fascia, under which sits a 4.3" HD screen, which, thanks to the crystal’s virtual scratchproofness, will remain � awless throughout the phone’s lifetime. Cased in titanium, swathed in calf leather, and full of the moddest of cons, this has to be the handset to rule them all.vertu.com


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material-of-the-moment titanium, the English luxury mobile brand has now unveiled the most contemporary and stylish product in its 15-year lifetime. � e new Constellation’s sleek, minimal form has been designed and engineered to appeal equally to male and female customers. Its 5.1" sapphire crystal – weighing more than 100 carats – � oods the entire fascia, under which sits a 4.3" HD screen, which, thanks to the crystal’s virtual scratchproofness, will remain � awless throughout the phone’s lifetime. Cased in titanium, swathed in calf leather, and full of the moddest of cons, this has to be the handset to rule them all.vertu.com

Bentley’s Tribute to Bond - V I N TA G E C L A S S I C S“Bond’s car was his only personal hobby. One of the last of the 4½ litre Bentleys with the supercharger by Amherst Villiers, he had bought it almost new in 1933 and had kept it in careful storage throughout the war… Bond drove it hard and well and with an almost sensual pleasure,” so wrote Ian Fleming in his � rst 007 novel, Casino Royale in 1953. To mark the book’s 60th anniversary, Vintage Classics has partnered with Bentley Motors to create a luxury edition limited to 500, featuring an introduction from racing legend, Sir Stirling Moss, and leather binding sourced from the Italian tannery that provides hides for Bentley’s interiors and a pair of baccarat playing cards.randomhouse.co.uk


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Automatic for the People - P I N I O N� ere are countless reasons for visiting � ne-watch showcase SalonQP this November, but here’s a particularly good one: the debut of Pinion watches – a newly established company based in South Oxfordshire. Formed by designer and watch a� cionado Piers Berry, the brand is driven by his vision to produce English-designed and assembled automatic timepieces that evoke design simplicity, high legibility and robustness. Every single aspect of Pinion’s � rst ‘Axis’ collection (which starts just shy of £2,000) is designed by Berry, including the straps and packaging, plus supporting marketing and photography. pinionwatches.com


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Sky-High in China - F O U R S E A S O N SLocated just over the border from Hong Kong, Shenzhen became China’s first Special Economic Zone in 1980 – a living experiment in capitalism that has propelled China to superpower status. By 2008 this high-tech hub was appointed a UNESCO City of Design and one of China’s leading cultural capitals. No surprise, then, that Four Seasons has opened its eighth Chinese five-star here – on a prized plot in Shenzhen’s new central business district of Futian, just steps from the Convention and Exhibition Center. The resort’s four restaurants, bar and lounge, 266 guest rooms and world-class spa all conjure a sense of quiet sophistication and calm, away from the frenetic pace of progress outdoors.fourseasons.com/Shenzhen

The Elegance of Eloga - E L O G AThis venerable Swiss watch brand first saw the light of day in 1917 at a quaint atelier deep in the heart of Berne, at the hands of brothers Fritz and Hans Spahr. Their range of professional-quality sports watches had cemented their reputation by the mid-1920s and it is in tribute to this heritage that Eloga’s modern incarnation has launched the Wintime Gold – not only equipped with a finely engineered ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement, but also regulated to precise chronometer standard. elogaswiss.com


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Artistic Retreat - T H E P U L L M A N M A R S E I L L E PA L M B E A C HThe Accor Hotel Group’s boutique Pullman chain makes its commitment to contemporary art its business, with every one of its 80 luxury hotels positively defined by its décor. The newly launched ‘Art Kube’ at the South of France’s Pullman Marseille Palm Beach is yet another demonstration of Pullman’s desire to promote the artists that share its world outlook. Until December 31, this sea-facing, nine cube-metre space in the lobby will host a series of artists in succession – currently renowned illustrator and graphic designer Arnaud Pagès, known for his transgressive portraits of many famous people. pullmanhotels.com


Salon QP 7-9 November 2013The Fine Watch Exhibition1st Floor Stand F13Saatchi GalleryLondon

www.agresti.com

Safe “Design”

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E P I C XTitanium Mechanical Hour Minute Skeleton

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j a c o b a n d c o . c o m

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Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM

Tel: (+84)4 23 234567

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - UK

Tel: 020 3372 0108108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF

Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Drinking from the Hip- H E N D R I C K ' S G I N A N D H A N N A H M A R T I N The jury’s still out on whether it’s actually advisable to clean your jewellery in gin, but Hannah Martin jewellery seems to be embracing the idea wholeheartedly, with its limited-edition Hendrick’s hip flask, available exclusively at Harrods this Christmas. Presented in a handmade leather travelling bag with a bottle of Hendrick’s Gin and a bespoke silk and cashmere scarf from Scottish tailors Walker Slater, each glass vessel is individually hand-blown and diamond-embossed by artisans in Norfolk, and then encased in green leather.hannahmartinlondon.com, hendricksgin.com, harrods.com

Pearly Queen- V I C T O R I A & A L B E R T M U S E U MA pearl-drop earring worn by Charles I at his execution in 1649, magnificent pearl tiaras worn by European nobility and a necklace of cultured pearls given to Marilyn Monroe by Joe DiMaggio in 1954 are among the incredible objects on display in a new exhibition at the V&A. Organised with the Qatar Museums Authority, the exhibition explores the history of pearls from the early Roman Empire to the present, with a magnificent selection of natural pearls showing how Gulf pearls have long been some of the most desirable and valuable in the world. Until 19 January 2014, vam.ac.uk


29/10/13Buccellati for Tempus UK November 2013 File: draft-print-TEMPUS-v1.pdf Created:

33 AlbemArle Street, mAyfAir, london WiS 4bP tel. 020 7629 5616

WWW.buccellAti.co.uk/cuffWAtch

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Motoring Mash-upA u d i N A N u kAs traditional boundaries blur in the car market, it was only a matter of time before the SUV and supercar collided in an off-roadable, high-performance mash-up. It’s arguably happened the other way around with SUVs offering pace to match supercars of old, yet Audi recently showed the Nanuk concept, which brought SUV to supercar. With its 5.0-litre V10 turbodiesel delivering 540hp, the Nanuk can reach 0-62mph in just 3.8sec on virtually any surface. Odd as it might sound, it could be just the thing for emerging markets, or those wanting supercar looks with a bit more utility, so don’t be surprised to see it eventually reaching production. audi.co.uk

Wired for Sound- TA d L A B SJapan’s Technical Audio Devices Laboratories, Inc. (TAD Labs) release two revolutionary new products in their Evolution Series this month, looking to shake up the PC audio market yet again: the DA1000 Digital to Analogue Converter and the D1000 CD Player. Based on the D600 CD Player, the DA1000 follows in the footsteps of its illustrious brother by utilising the UPCG clock circuitry, as well as a newly conceived electronic volume control, to deliver a high-end resolution system that connects directly with the power amplifier. In turn, the D1000 CD Player has the CD unit directly fixed to its bespoke 8mm-thick aluminium chassis, increasing the stability of the rotating mechanism. Its brushless motor spindle also imparts the D1000 with a very low noise and long life. Even technophobes are likely to fall in love, thanks to both products’ drop-dead-handsome design style.tad-labs.com

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Grace and Fire - P I A G E TMany prefer to revel in Piaget ’s flamboyant and gaudy designs of the 1970s, but you’d be forgetting the Swiss brand’s importance in the decade before, adorning the jet set’s women with the world’s most dazzling jewellery watches. This year’s newly launched Limelight Gala collection draws a wealth of inspiration from this glamorous era, with a little help from newly signed brand ambassador Gong Li, the only Chinese actress to win individual awards in the world’s three largest international film festivals. The watches’ gem-set bezels flow elegantly into gem-set lugs, to lend a subtle flair.piaget.com

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NeroUno Red Gold Fountain Pen Ref. ISNRC_AC

The Writing Room, Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL, T: (0207) 730.1234 ~ Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, T: (0207) 318.3140

The Pen Shop, 199 Regent Street, London W1B 4LZ, T: (0207) 734.4088 ~ The Pen Shop, 8-9 Leadenhall Market, Fenchurch Street, London EC3V 1LR T: (0207) 621.0959Penfriend, 34 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, London W1J 0QA, T: (0207) 499.6337 ~ Websters Pen Shops, Bluewater,Croydon,Bromley,Brighton, T: (01322) 661545

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108 New Bond Street108 New Bond StreetLondon, W1S 1EF - UK


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the other soho house

trends and news from the best bars and kitchens

Soho Square is now home to a charity-centred members’ club and dining room. The Club at The House of St Barnabas is launched in partnership with the eponymous charity, which has been at this address since 1846. Profits go to the charity for the homeless, and the multi-million pound refurb ensures the venue is set to become one of the hippest hangouts for London’s creatives. hosb.org.uk

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“When I first became a man,” says St Paul in his letters to the Corinthians, “I put away childish things.” If you’ll allow me a slightly tortured analogy, this describes my relationship with dim sum.

My first experience of the original ‘small plate’ dining came from suburban Chinese restaurants. Mostly glutinous and interchangeable, the dishes still had occasional flashes of epicurean brilliance. Harbour City in London’s Chinatown was the next step in my dim sum odyssey, and I still consider it the best lunchtime option on Gerrard Street. Then the game-changer that was Hakkasan arrived, setting the bar for quality dim sum served in a sophisticated environment.

On the strength of my recent visit, though, it seems Chelsea newcomer Bo Lang could challenge that Michelin-starred eatery. Its selection, although a smaller offering than Hakkasan,

bo lang Reviewed by Scott Manson

is technically precise and well thought out. Its décor, too, borrows a design cue or two, with dark wood dividers, stylish velvet chairs and, despite its small size, a good feel of table privacy. It’s perfectly judged for the fashion crowd that inhabit this corner of west London, with a menu that combines classics with more contemporary offerings. The former included a fabulous version of turnip cake – the Chinese New Year favourite – which was a pan-fried, pork-flecked taste sensation. Prawn har gau was similarly old school, but given a contemporary twist with the addition of a blackberry reduction, while a heftier main course of roasted duck, unusually served with samphire, provided a salty, meaty kick. There is a host of noodle and rice options but, frankly, the quality of the dim sum is such you won’t need a carb fix. Little wonder that the ladies who lunch love this new launch.bolangrestaurant.co.uk

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It’s the height of bling. In order to house their new winery and cellar, the Chinese Changyu Pioneer Wine company has built a replica Loire chateau complete with mock ‘dreaming spires’. It’s part of a huge viticultural revolution: in the next two years, China’s wine consumption is expected to double to almost 3 billion bottles a year. The Bordelais are no doubt hoping the Chinese will rediscover their love of claret. On the strength of this excellent Changyu red, though, they may be disappointed.

enter the dragon

EastErn promisE2008 Chateau Changyu Moser XV, Ningxia A fascinating Bordeaux blend (90% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot) that is the first fine red wine to come out of China. There’s bags of fruit, a well-integrated tannin – the result of 12 months in French oak – and a real sense of freshness. bbr.com, £421 for 12 bottles

Chateau Changyu Gold Label Ice Wine, Liaoning Chateau Moser is named after Lenz Moser, the Austrian white wine specialist who is spearheading Changyu’s production of ice wine. Because the wines are crushed frozen and have no botrytis, there is a clarity to the fruit and a racy acidity in the three ice wines that form part of the initial release. bbr.com, £19 for 1 x 37.5 cl bottle

Chateau Changyu Black Label Ice Wine, LiaoningThis Black Label Ice Wine is more honeyed than the Gold Label. Its unctuous and rich in the extreme, with notes of tropical fruit laced through the thick dark, ultra-sweet wine. The length seems to go on for an eternity, and can be tasted a good few hours after drinking. bbr.com, £3500 for six bottles

by Peter Dean

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wild honey

the impressive, yet decidedly modest, St George’s Church.

Enjoying a lemon drop martini and a cool cucumber infused gin and tonic under the soft radiant lighting, we agreed Wild Honey felt like a French restaurant hidden on a quiet street in Paris. And the menu kept this illusion alive.

For starters we chose the hand-dived Scottish scallops and veal ravioli, followed by a classic rack of lamb and the wild sea bass, which was accompanied by tangy pink grapefruit marmalade, adding a sweet twist to the dish. Each course was delivered with a glass of wine selected to compliment the dishes, chosen for us by manager Chris Cavaille – whose passion for amazing food and drink is infectious.

For dessert we opted for a selection of cheeses from ‘La Fromagerie’ and put ourselves in the hands of our waiter. He chose a wide range of blue cheeses and smoked cheddars – all delicious and served beautifully on a board with oatcakes, grapes and chutneys. We also sampled a simple apple tart, but the treats didn’t stop there. With our coffees came a collection of delectable little chocolaty mignardises – ending our experience on a sumptuous sweet note and leaving the lingering taste of Wild Honey on our palates. wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk

Reviewed by Dawn Murden

Navigating Oxford Circus at rush hour often feels clumsy and claustrophobic, but a short walk to the Michelin-starred Wild Honey restaurant on St George Street and the fluster of the busy shopping street soon disappeared.

Wild Honey, which opened in 2007, is the second restaurant from Will Smith and Anthony Demetre, the duo behind Arbutus – the celebrated contemporary bistro in Soho.

Wild Honey has a completely different feel from their fledgling restaurant though. Instead of chic black leather and modern lighting, red banquettes surround crisp linen covered tables perfectly spaced apart for comfortable dining. The wood-panelled walls are decorated with a collection of photographic art – old and new – and outside the large window sits

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GERMANY: Hülse-reutter GmbH, +49 405 388-8213 • ITALY: I. Boncompagni & C., +39 041 522 45 63. Tarascio, +39 06 420 20 73 37. Verga SrL, +39 02 720 93 3799JAPAN, MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & THAILAND: Luxury Concepts, +603 2142 6328, +603 2141 2881 • KUWAIT: Kallista Holding, +965 2232 0313

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The time of my life

Alex BarterBetween 1996 and 2009 I worked for Sotheby’s watch department, initially as an assistant and latterly as the director of the department in London and Geneva. In hindsight, 1996 was a fascinating time to enter the market. Whilst Sotheby’s had historically offered pocket watches for sale, it had only included wristwatches since the early 1980s and it was clear that this category had huge growth potential. Two months before I joined Sotheby’s, my soon-to-be colleagues had set a new world record for a steel wristwatch at auction, selling a unique Patek Philippe (ref.1591) for more than half a million pounds – a huge sum of money for a watch at that time.

The following years saw exponential growth as more and more collectors joined the market, with prices for some brands and models jumping from season to season. In the 2000s, the internet greatly changed the market as shared knowledge and detailed information became much more widely available. The influence of the Asian market also had a dramatic impact. Sotheby’s first watch auction in Hong Kong was held in 1997 with a modest number of lots in a slim catalogue; today, by contrast, the Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch catalogue is the size of a telephone directory. Unsurprisingly, many are predicting that Hong Kong will soon be recognised as the base for the world’s major watch auctions, representing a significant shift from their traditional home in Geneva.

Working for an auction house, I was in the extraordinary position of seeing thousands of watches a year. I travelled around the world meeting clients, viewing and valuing their watches and attending the Sotheby’s watch

Alex Barter is the former director of Sotheby’s watch department in London and Geneva and the co-owner of Black Bough, a shop specialising in vintage wristwatches. blackbough.co.uk

auctions in Geneva, New York, Hong Kong and London. This meant that I was able to study and examine huge numbers of pieces. Quality, condition and rarity were the most important factors I considered when providing auction estimates for watches. I suppose what fascinated me most was comparing models like for like. Take two identical watches from, for example, the 1950s and they will never be exactly the same. Each will have aged in a different way, their dials will have acquired their own individual patination, their cases will have picked up distinctive scuffs, and the way in which they have been worn and polished will alter the appearance of their cases. Therein lies the vintage watch’s greatest appeal: the character and individuality that they afford their owner.

We live in a period of great horological innovation. Watchmakers continue to vie with one another to improve the mechanical movement, despite the fact that you can buy a superb timekeeper in the form of a quartz watch for under £20. But for me, there is no glamour, no soul in the circuit board of an electronic watch. Mechanical watches are a part of their owner, their balance spring breathing in and out in perpetual motion.

- t h e w o r d -

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000_Ad.indd 1 29/10/2013 17:11

The luxury property boom

Melissa Porter

In the words of the DJ Fresh song, central London is so hot right now. Over the past year the change in London’s property market has been tangible. Following the recession and the slump in house prices across the country, London is leading the way back with house prices soaring over 8% in the last year.

With a buoyant property market in the capital, a ripple effect to other parts of the UK is likely to follow, so strategically investing in property now is probably a good idea – whether it’s your first venture into property or that upsize to a family home you’ve been waiting for.

Of course, at the top end of the market, there are still those properties that some investors are wary of. One Hyde Park, I’m looking at you here. However, unlike some other property commentators, I don’t see this luxury residential scheme as a white elephant. It’s only a bad investment if you can’t afford the repayments or your ROI doesn’t stack up.

Overall, the smart money is turning to property. With the bogus trading scandals and uncertainty surrounding the financial sector in recent years, the world’s super rich want tangible assets such as precious metals and property to secure their wealth, resulting in the boom of the luxury second home market in many established and emerging economies. Basically, there has never been a better time to put your money where your house is.

For those looking at the super-prime end of the London market, you should expect biometric security access, a hydraulic garage set up, private staff accommodation, a chef ’s

kitchen, a panic room and perhaps even a bowling alley, nightclub and helipad.

If you’re thinking about buying overseas, you should do some research into the economic stability and prosperity of the country in which you are planning to buy. Information that can be useful includes level of investment in infrastructure by the local government and recent currency fluctuations or trends. Confirming you’re buying property in either an up-and-coming or well-established economy will be key to the valuation and re-sale of the property in years to come.

Finally, the canny investor will make their money work harder for them while investing abroad by using foreign exchange companies. Indeed, for those emigrating or making regular payments in any foreign currency, a good foreign exchange company can save you up to 4% on the cost of your transfers, which could end up being £40,000 on a house purchase of £1m.

If you are shopping for super-prime real estate in London, though, then I wish you the best of British luck. A recent report revealed that London homes in the £30m-£50m bracket are in short supply, with even big players such as Google’s billionaire chairman Eric Schmidt failing to find a London home, despite his willingness to part with over £30m. Let’s face it, with some Knightsbridge prices rising over 130% in five years, and with those properties being owned by debt-free individuals, there is little incentive to sell right now. So, if you spot something you like, and the price is right, then fortune favours the swift and the brave.

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Melissa Porter is a BBC property broadcaster and journalist who recently hosted London’s Luxury Property Show. theluxurypropertyshow.com

043-045_the word.indd 45 25/10/2013 10:51

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S m a r t e r t h a n t h e av e r a g e wat c h ?

Hi Snob I know you’ve commented on the Pebble smartwatch before but have you changed your mind about it now that it’s proving quite popular?

Yes, I have changed my mind about the

Pebble. It’s even worse than I first thought. It is an aesthetic travesty, belonging only on the wrists of pasty help-desk workers and will be relegated to the dustbin of history within a year or two, mark my words. As if compulsive smartphone-checking isn’t bad enough, now people will be reading text messages on their wrists. But while I am happily consulting my hand-wound Patek Calatrava in 20 years, the aptly named Pebble will be at the bottom of landfills everywhere, its only legacy the perfluorocarbons that seep into the soil from its plastic case.

H i p s t e r h o r o l o gy

Yo Snob I live in London and often find myself at events where the dress is upscale but casual (jeans, leather jackets and the like). I have a decent collection of watches for business and formal evening events, but tonight, while I was at a more rock ‘n’ roll occasion, I wondered what a good watch would be for these environments? Neither my Rolex GMT nor my Patek Calatrava seemed to fit. Any thoughts on a watch that can be worn at downscale — dare I say, ‘hipster’ — events, where most people are wealthy and wearing expensive yet informal clothing?

First of all, I am not a fashion consultant. Ask me about the inherent merits of a timepiece, but please not as a wardrobe accessory. Still, your question amused me and I cannot resist a reply.

Your so-called ‘downscale’ events seem so utterly contrived I envision a gathering of trust-fund hipsters arriving on fixed gear bikes with 35mm film cameras over their shoulders. Let me guess, your friends are wearing vintage Hamilton army watches on canvas straps, and your Patek and Rolex just feel too bourgeois. In this race to the bottom, the perfect timepiece would be a 1970s Casio calculator watch. Be sure to wear it loose, lest anyone think you care enough to have it sized properly. I’ll bet some bleeding-edge boutique sells them, marked up accordingly for you and your friends.

B e l i e v e t h e H y p e ?

Dear Snob, I have a question regarding Richard Mille watches. Enormous hype has surrounded the brand. I understand their movements are manufactured by Renaud & Papi, and there is no doubt that they are innovative in their movements, designs and materials. At the same time, the prices they ask for their watches are greater than the average Royal Oak Offshore. What are your thoughts about the brand?

Richard Mille, the man, is a bon vivant in

every sense of the world, leading the life we can only dream about. He is always showing up at high-society soirees with a supermodel on his arm and rap stars fawning for his attention. Not bad for a short, bald watchmaker. For leading exactly the life he wants, I applaud him.

Richard Mille, the watch brand, mimics its namesake in appeal and style. The watches are designed for shock value (and for measuring shock in some cases) instead of legibility, and would be suitable to wear with virtually nothing besides a neon tennis jersey. It would be easy to dismiss Richard Mille as a brand built merely on hype and celebrity, but in fact the timepieces are underpinned by tour de force innovation, even if they are designed for ludicrous scenarios.

Would I ever wear a Richard Mille watch? If you’ve read my column, you’ll know the answer to that. If not, let’s just say my tastes run to the more subtle and classic.

Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

The

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To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com

047_watch snob.indd 47 25/10/2013 10:49

UnderthehammerThe Little Prince, a racing team of gorgeous Fifties Jags and some architectural furniture comprise the auction scene over the next couple of months

Phillips� is gorgeous pair of ‘Funkis’ chairs, by Axel Einar Hjorth, circa 1930, will feature in ‘� e Architect’, a design auction to be held by Phillips celebrating the contributions architects have made to our environment through the furniture, objects, and equipment they’ve invented in response to the buildings they’ve conceived. As Louis Kahn said, “Design is not making beauty. Beauty emerges from selection, a� nities, integration, love.”

Estimated between £18,000 and £22,000. Phillip’s The Architect sale takes place in London on 21 November. phillips.com

BonhamsBonhams’ Motor department’s December sale will be held at the house’s new state-of-the-art saleroom on New Bond Street. Among cars already consigned is the stunning Dick Skipworth collection of racing cars from Ecurie Ecosse – a proudly Scots blue-liveried team that took on some of the biggest names in world-class motor racing, and won consecutive Le Mans 24-Hour races for Jaguar in 1956 and 1957. Highlights include a 1953 C-Type and a 1956 D-Type, as well as the team’s famous double-deck car transporter.

Estimate POA. Bonhams’ Important Collectors’ Motor Cars sale takes place on 1 December at the New Bond Street saleroom. bonhams.com

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Sotheby’s� is year marks the 70th anniversary of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s classic novella Le Petit Prince and as o� cial partner to the pioneering aviator and author’s Youth Foundation, IWC watches have produced this outstanding, one-o� platinum version of the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar to raise funds for the construction of a school in Cambodia. � e moonphase display at 12 o’clock features the Little Prince himself, complete with shock of blonde hair and � uttering scarf, standing on his tiny planet. � e watch will be sold with a re-edition of the � rst printed copy of � e Little Prince in English and a facsimile of the original French manuscript.

Estimated to fetch SFr78,000. To be auctioned at Sotheby’s Geneva auction of Important Watches on 12 November. Sothebys.com

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byMG/FI

tempus-magazine_2013-09-23.indd 2 24/09/2013 11:22:03000_Ad.indd 1 29/10/2013 14:28

Trendwatching

- t h e h o t l i s t -

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W i n d i n g d o w nWatch winders are a practical must-have for the true collector and, with the trend for oversize faces still on the increase, Scatola del Tempo has introduced extra-large winders, boxes, holder and suitcases. A great gift for the timepiece a� cionado.

j o i n t h e c l u bWe are very proud to be Associate Members of the Society of the Golden Keys – a London-based collective of the city’s best hotel concierges and others connected to the hospitality industry. We held an exclusive in-store event for some of our concierge partners and it was a roaring success, made even more special as former heavyweight champion boxer Tim Witherspoon made an appearance and mingled with guests.

pa r t y l i n e� e new Vertu Constellation already has a waiting list and it’s no surprise. � e handset has the most beautiful � nish, there’s amazing Android technology contained within and it’s extremely well priced for a Vertu.

S m o k e s i g n a l sWe were recently introduced to � e Cigar Room at the May Fair. What a place! It exceeded all my expectations, o� ering a fantastic selection of hand-rolled cigars and an impressive choice of signature martinis in a luxurious setting. Settle down there and you’ll � nd it hard to leave, I guarantee it.

Frost of London director Joseph Banin reveals what’s on his radar this month

s u p e r f ly I am really impressed with the Bell & Ross vintage-style Falcon timepiece, which is limited to just 50 pieces. When it comes to aviation-in� uenced watches there are few to match them. We don’t stock the brand in the boutique but they are still well worthy of a mention.

W i n d i n g d o w n j o i n t h e c l u b

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A select group of some of London’s finest hoteliers (and one boxing

champ) gathered at Frost’s London boutique for a night of networking

fine champagne and even better canapés. A select group of some of London’s finest hoteliers (and one boxing

A night atFrost ofLondon

COOL CANAPESThe good ladies of Frost and some of the fabulous food on offer

LUXURY LEADERSHead honchos from The Box nightclub and St James Hotel and Club (right) swap stories

PLEASED AS PUNCHHip hoteliers Ashleigh and Amelia from Intercontinental Westminster (above) and Tempus editor Scott Manson (below) with boxing legend Tim Witherspoon

050-051_trendwatching.indd 51 25/10/2013 17:15

- fa s h i o n & a c c e s s o r i e s -frostoflondon.co.uk

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05Valedictorian� is golf club is carved from a steel block and then customised for the individual. Titanium, gold and gems add an extra layer of luxury. Oh, and it’s designed by Fabien Muller, son of Frank Muller. Need we say more? From £2,650, harrods.com

04Shamballa Jewels� e French cu� shirt is a wardrobe staple for every dapper gent and a pair of smart cu� inks are its essential accessory. Shamballa Jewels presents these black diamond pave and SOS beads cu� inks in 18ct white gold.£9,470.

Have a fabulous Christmas with these gorgeously decadent gift ideas

01Roland ItenFor the aspiring 007, this smart gift set is the ultimate in gentlemen’s mechanical luxury. Complete with belt, insanely clever card dispenser and cu� inks, it’s a set-up worthy of M himself. “Now, please pay attention Bond…” POA

02Borgioni� e mother-and-daughter-designed Borgioni brand comprises some of the world’s most expressive and eclectic jewellery, such as these 18ct rose gold spike dangle earrings set with brown diamonds. £4,865

03Theo FennellShe will love this elegantly festive 18ct white gold and diamond stag art pendant from one of London’s designers. Part of the iconic ‘Arts Collection and limited to just 25 pieces to represent the 25 days of Christmas.£2,850

01

Sheer indulgence

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Arnold & SonWe’ve showcased some pretty special timepieces on these pages, but this one has provoked the highest level of in-office watch envy to date. Available in a limited edition run of just 50 watches, and priced at £57,500, the Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement (UTTE) is one of the thinnest tourbillon watches on the market today. Even those Tempus team members who aren’t tourbillon fans had to agree that this is one showstopper of a watch.

The entirely in-house manufactured movement is a thing of beauty. Even cased up it’s only 8.34mm thick, yet it still offers a whopping 90-hour power reserve. With its beautiful finishing and modern aesthetic, this is a dress watch that offers more discreet ‘stealth wealth’ appeal than many other tourbillons on the market. Hand-built in La Chaux-de-Fonds, it’s a worthy addition to the brand’s celebrated Instrument Collection.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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- o b j e c t s o f d e s i r e -

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054-055_Objects of desire.indd 55 25/10/2013 17:12

Our clothes are made to order by our team of Savile Row trained tailors. We only use the finest cloths, canvases, and linings in the construction of our garments. We make up overcoats, business or lounge suits, wedding attire,

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Words - Alex Doak- S t y l e A d v i c e -

Get

s h i rt y

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Three of London’s finest outfitters give us their on-the-cuff advice for wearing your shirt well – and what they’re doing to improve the

rarefied world of tailoring, stitch by stitch, snip by snip

James Sleater, Co-Founder, CAD & THE DANDY

On the essential rules Of wearing a shirt…

“At Cad & The Dandy we believe there are three things key to any shirt: style, quality of materials and fit. For the best style and fit it makes sense to work with a tailor who can best reflect your individual taste. Our approach is to mix clean lines and a sharp cut with a consultation experience that puts clients at ease. Think about where the shirt will be worn when deciding on details such as collar type and cuffs – simple comfort at the office or something more striking for a social occasion? Double cuffs mean cufflinks are a necessity, giving you the option to mix things up a little by allowing for more of an individual style statement. When looking at materials, quality is everything. Always check the smaller details, paying particular attention to the following:

• Thick Buttons: You don’t notice the nice thick buttons on a good quality shirt until you get a shirt with thin, flimsy buttons that snap off easily.

• Pattern Matching: Your shirt is made of separate panels of fabric. On a well-tailored stripe or check shirt, the stripes and checks should be aligned where possible at the seams as opposed to being messy and erratic.

• Tight Stitching: This makes for a harder-wearing, longer-lasting shirt.

Finally, never wear a shirt untucked!”

cadandthedandy.co.uk

057_shirts.indd 57 25/10/2013 17:43

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Haneesh Jangra, Head Tailor, OXBOROUGH TAILORS

On the shirt-tailOring prOcess…

“At Oxborough Tailors I make handmade shirts to order, the traditional way. Firstly once I have measured my client, his measurements will be drafted onto a paper pattern, which is kept for future orders. Next the cloth is cut by hand from the pattern and then sewn on a sewing machine by our Savile Row-trained tailor. Each shirt is made to a very high standard from British cloth and finished with mother of pearl buttons. The shirt fits perfectly, not too much excess cloth so it creases up under the jacket, but not skinny-fit. The benefits of bespoke tailoring is that my clients can choose from more than ten different cuff styles or collar styles to suit their preference. This includes my new watch-in-cuff style for the timepiece connoisseur. Often with shirts, the cuff diameter does not allow for a larger watch on the wrist, so I made a cuff where the watch and cuff are one. For a smart casual shirt, I also make a two-button angled collar which is a subtle design not seen too often. It adds a touch of uniqueness that my clients are looking for, but without appearing too ostentatious, I call it understated elegance. Which I think in essence is what Savile Row is all about.”

oxboroughtailors.com

Christopher Mundy, Assistant Manager, BUDD SHIRTMAKERS On the stiff BiB White tie Dress shirt…

“The stiff neckband shirt is the highest form of acceptable shirting for a white tie affair. The essential elements are the stud-holed front, buttons not really being suitable; the relatively short stiff linen bib, designed to accommodate a high waistcoat; and, of course, the stud-holed neckband, readied for the imminent arrival of a stiff dress collar.

Budd is purportedly the only shirt-maker to carry this sartorial essential as a ready-made item; entirely manufactured in England. The shirts take an absolute minimum of six to eight weeks to produce. They are painstakingly crafted by-hand: even the stud-holes are measured out by rule – pierced by one of the ladies at our Andover workshop.

When each masterpiece is complete, it is then couriered off to be starched by our launderers (who also launder customers’ sullied shirts post-party). Finally, the shirts are couriered to us whereupon they are prepared so that they can be pieced together with their eventual owners’ tailcoats, vests and trousers via the tidy little fastener, which falls beneath the bib, away from prying eyes.

With the studs and cufflinks (starching the cuffs naturally renders a folded double cuff invalid, so a dress single cuff is used - buttons, again, will not do), stiff collar and bow tie crowning the shirt’s glory, the completed outfit is something which both wows fellow guests and enhances the wearer’s appearance.

Simple in appearance, perhaps; but very effective.”

buddshirts.co.uk

“Understated elegance is what savile row is all about,” says haneesh Jangra, head tailor at Oxborough tailors

- S t y l e A d v i c e -

057_shirts.indd 58 25/10/2013 17:43

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- g o o d t i m e s -Words – Danny Bowman

ArnoldSchwarzenegger

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- g o o d t i m e s -

of wristwatch over the years in your movies. Do you have a favourite?Wow – that’s a question. I don’t think so. I think different watches suit different movies and different eras. What I will say is it’s certainly been great having so many beautiful watches to wear. I used to wear a lot of Seikos, for instance, but sometimes when you switch to a certain manufacturer, you get the feeling you have found the one that is right for you. The Panerai, the Audemars

in the end I was wearing the watches I wanted to, so it wasn’t so much of interest to me.

Q: What is it you like about a wristwatch?The size, the magnitude, the big stuff! I don’t like small watches; I want something that really makes a statement. I also like the fact you use different watches for different occasions. I like the way I can choose a different watch for a different setting. Q: Your watch drawer has courted publicity in the past...Sure, watches are there to be worn. I choose a watch, put it on, get on with my day. I don’t like all that watch winder stuff – it’s so unnecessary. So I don’t show off my watches... I don’t want to do that; I just want to enjoy them.

Q: You’ve worn so many different brands

Piguet... they were good moments. The Piguet, especially.

Q: You’ve said in the past that kids aren’t obsessed about wristwatches like you were in your youth?That’s true – there are so many other things to occupy them... their computers, their phones. I think it’s a passion you only really pick up in later life anyway. Q: Through all your film roles, ventures into politics and more, you’ve always come

Q: Tell us about the variety of wristwatches that you’ve sported on screen over the years.Well there have been so many, but the one that I always come back to is the Seiko Arnie H558. I think I wore this in seven different movies. It’s a very sporty watch, hard-wearing, and that was really reflective of the movies I was doing back then. It was a great combination.But I’ve always liked vintage watches as well, because they’ve been big watches.

Q: Of course nowadays they’d bring out a new watch for each movie.Maybe that is true! I think wristwatches and movies now go together very well, and people understand how the process works. Back then it was slightly different – there was still a lot of product placement, but

through as strong and resilient. Is that how you are on the inside as well?I think so, yes. What is an obstacle? It’s there to be tackled. You go with the setbacks and you fall and you get up and that’s what it’s all about. You have victories, you have defeats and hopefully more victories than defeats. Q: Have you always been a positive person?Yes, I always was a positive person, but then again I didn’t have any reasons not to be. I

An icon of entertainment, Arnold Schwarzenegger effectively invented the modern action movie and has been a constant on the big screen for almost four decades. So as a man synonymous with strength – both physical and political – he has been able to sample the finer things in life, including a passion for wristwatches.

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“I don’t like small watches: I want something that makes a statement,” says the actor/former politician

061_goodtimes.indd 63 25/10/2013 14:44

- g o o d t i m e s -

mean, from the time I made the decision to come to America – everything that I have achieved is because of America. No matter what people say, when you come to a place like this, where there’s no one trying to derail you, and you know people are helping you and people are positive even though they didn’t believe I could do all the things that I did. But still it’s a very positive place. By nature I was always very positive or upbeat. Q: Will you do another Terminator?Yes, it’s being written as we speak. I want to keep on doing movies.

I think the older you get the more people think you have other projects away from this, or perhaps no projects at all, but I just want to keep on making movies.

Q: What’s the key to growing older then?I think the key thing is to acknowledge your age and make fun of it because otherwise, it’s an elephant in the room. So by acknowledging it this way, it takes the curse off. People say, ‘Oh, OK, he’s aware of it and that was a funny way of dealing with it.’ They laugh about it and then they move on. But let’s be clear, ageing sucks! There’s really no upside that I can see. I mean you get

higher, they say, ‘Well for every job, it’s easy to fail.’ When you come from the sports background, like I did, failure is a big part of it because you cannot break a record if you don’t fail along the way. Eventually, you are going to fail, and that’s good practice! Q: The new year will be upon us soon and it’s a time when people look at their fitness levels. Do you have any advice for them?Well, all I will say is it’s really important that we train the body, but it’s equally important we train the mind. I mean, it’s like, why would you limit yourself to one or the other? And I would say spiritually you should develop yourself and work on that, so I

wiser, sure, but overall there’s no benefit.

Q: What quality do you find most important as an actor, or governor, or anything, when you have to face a challenge?Well first of all, the willingness to take risks, and not to just turn away because something is difficult. So to face and accept risks and also to accept the fact that you could lose and you could fail. Because the thing that holds us back, and why one person is more successful than the other, is because one person is afraid of failure. They don’t want to go the next step, or reach

think you can do all this at the same time, and one benefits from the other. It’s not like they are separate. I mean, they are now saying that the more that people exercise, the better that the brain gets stimulated, and the more people stimulate the brain, the better effect it has on the memory and you feel active. I think all of that is intertwined and it’s working together.

Escape Plan is out now

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“I keep coming back to the Seiko H558,” says Schwarzenegger, whose new movie Escape Plan is out now

061_goodtimes.indd 64 25/10/2013 14:45

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CM

MJ

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000_Ad.indd 1 29/10/2013 14:32

watches you must ownAny budding watch collector could do worse than to work

towards this basic repertoire of modern classics – solid models that have stood the test of time

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- c o l l e c ta b l e s -Words – Ken Kessler

066_coverfeature.indd 66 25/10/2013 10:36

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and 10 future classics


I- 68 -

- c o l l e c ta b l e s -

t’s easy to be overwhelmed by the plethora of available wristwatches – new and vintage – when you � rst fall in love with the wee mechanical marvels. If you consider that wristwatches have been around for over a century, but hardcore, organised collecting has only been a de� nable movement (no pun intended) since the late 1980s, you

begin to experience all manner of con� icting in� uences and loyalties.

What to collect? Where to � nd the pieces? Do I buy old or new? As with any passion, the best thing for a novice to do is to focus, but that requires the sort of knowledge or experience that only comes with time. (No pun, etc.) How many newbies enter the � eld knowing inherently that they’ll concentrate on diving watches or chronographs? For that matter, how many recent converts to watch collecting are armed with knowing the di� erence between a chronometer and a chronograph in the � rst place?

What I wish I had been told when I � rst started collecting watches nearly 35 years ago was to limit my lust to a speci� c watch genre. Within a decade, I had narrowed it down to tightly de� ned categories, so I don’t even turn

my head at watches outside of my remit, such as tourbillons, minute repeaters, calendars and the like.

Were I to travel back in time, I would start my watch journey with a simple plan: to collect only classics and milestones, watches so truly exceptional that they’re still in production after decades. � at alone gives you the choice of old vs new – not something you can say about vintage watches of limited lifespan, or new watches introduced this century.

While the following list will anger fellow enthusiasts, because no two hobbyists ever agree on such lists, be it ‘� e Ten Greatest GT Cars’ or ‘Ten Amazing Red Wines’, this is a list of ten watch classics so important that no enthusiast should be without at least one of them in his or her collection. I own seven out of the ten, but it took me 30 years to do so.

In no particular order, then…


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Rolex OysterDoesn’t matter whether you buy an Air-King or an Explorer, a Submariner or a GMT-Master, every watch lover should own at least one Rolex, even if just for a short while. � e company is unique in too many ways to list, the watches are iconic, the quality indisputable. But do the right thing: buy stainless steel.

Cartier TankOne of the oldest wristwatches, launched a century ago and so stylish that it has graced the wrists of taste-de� ning cultural heroes of both genders since its inception. From an early on-screen appearance on the wrist of Rudolph Valentino, to Andy Warhol who wore it as jewellery, this is a dress-watch essential.

Rolex Oyster

12



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Omega Speedmaster ProfessionalEveryone needs at least one chronograph. � is is not the place to argue about what is the greatest chronograph of all time, but the Speedy was good enough for NASA to make it standard issue for astronauts nearly 50 years ago. It still is. A paragon of design excellence, it is impossible to fault.

3

4Panerai

Any Panerai is a solid choice, but people with class and taste choose the base, time-only, manual-wind Radiomirs or Luminors; the rest

are for arrivistes. Panerai kicked o� the trend for timepieces over 40mm

across when it was reissued in the mid-1990s; the rest is history. Simply

the ultimate macho wristwatch.


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Breitling Navitimer B01As pilots’ chronographs go, this one is pretty much a de� nitive – even if nobody needs the circular slide rule around the dial. It was designed speci� cally for � y guys in 1952, so the credibility is rock-solid, and it looks so techy that it scares away computer geeks. Mine dates from ’64, with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association dial.

Patek Philippe CalatravaIf Cartier’s rectangular Tank is not your idea of a dress watch because your world is round, this sublime creation born in 1932 is the watch of formal mien to complement any suit and tie. Exquisite craftsmanship, a form that de� ned the genre and de� es fashion, mine’s from 1956 and indistinguishable from today’s.

5



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Blancpain Fifty FathomsWhile Rolex’s Submariner is regarded as the de� nitive diving watch, this gem arrived at the same time and boasted the same virtues: rotating bezel to chart elapsed time, superb legibility, water resistance suitable for scuba divers. And another thing: like the Panerais, it was designed for military users.

8

7

Jaeger-LeCoultre ReversoConceived for polo players so they wouldn’t smash their watch crystals, the Reverso is as old as the Calatrava, and it pre-dates the so-called sports/dress watches of the 1970s by four decades. An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn with tux or trainers. And it was good enough for Bale’s Bruce Wayne, too.

7

Jaeger-LeCoultre ReversoConceived for polo players so they wouldn’t smash their watch crystals, the Reverso is as old as the Calatrava, and it pre-dates the so-called sports/dress watches of the 1970s by four decades. An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn watches of the 1970s by four decades. An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn watches of the 1970s by four decades.

with tux or trainers. And it was good An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn with tux or trainers. And it was good An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn

enough for Bale’s Bruce Wayne, too.


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IWC ‘Mark’ SeriesNow up to Mk XVII, IWC pilot’s watch de� ned the look. � ere’s a triangle at 12 o’clock so you know instantly what is right-side up, the watches are truly anti-magnetic, they were once NATO issue. IWC has modernised them a bit too much, but they’re still cool. I’ll stick to my vintage Mk X and Mk XI.

Hamilton VenturaAlthough its true claim to fame is being the � rst successful electric wristwatch, history loves it because of the triangular shape. Reissued, ironically, in mechanical form as well as quartz, it earned immortality when Elvis wore his own Ventura in Blue Hawaii. Best worn at the wheel of a 1958 Corvette.

9Now up to Mk XVII, IWC pilot’s watch de� ned the look. � ere’s a triangle at 12 o’clock so you Now up to Mk XVII, IWC pilot’s watch de� ned the look. � ere’s a triangle at 12 o’clock so you Now up to Mk XVII, IWC pilot’s watch de� ned

know instantly what is right-side up, the watches are truly anti-magnetic, they were once NATO know instantly what is right-side up, the watches are truly anti-magnetic, they were once NATO know instantly what is right-side up, the watches

issue. IWC has modernised them a bit too much, 10



future classicsDecades down the line, which of today’s upstart watchmakers will be

making tomorrow’s modern classics? Here’s our stab in the darkCompiled by Alex Doak

1Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38Incredible value for money and a drop-dead gorgeous Bauhaus aesthetic are drawing more and more to youthful German brand Nomos. Better still, you get a proper in-house movement to boot.

2Hublot Big BangMaybe not everyone’s cup of tea, but there’s no ignoring the runaway success of its bling-bling Big Bang. There’s plenty of Swiss substance behind the ‘style’ too.

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3MeisterSinger No.3 AutomatikAnother relative newcomer of a brand, the idea behind Germany’s MeisterSinger is agonisingly elegant: drop the minute hand and slow down your perception of time.

4Graham Chronofi ghter Oversize� ere’s nothing of London’s 18th-century horologist George Graham in this brand, but then again there’s nothing quite like Graham. � at chronograph ‘trigger’ is unmistakable and addictively functional.

5Bremont ALT1-C ClassicBremont will go down in history for its innovative limited editions, but people will always buy this, its launch watch of 2006 – the perfect modern distillation of a pilot watch.

6Bell & Ross BR01 InstrumentIts uncompromising proportions took everyone by surprise in 2005, but look at the fashion-watch world now: massive, blocky squares everywhere. � is is the original and best, with genuine cockpit provenance.

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7Zenith El Primero Striking 10thAdmittedly the elder statesman of our list, Zenith’s very recent reboot nonetheless keeps models such as this retro take on its iconic El Primero chronograph fresh and full of promise.

8Dior Chiffre RougeHedi Slimane’s slick but rock-solid mechanicals have endured at Dior Homme longer than the designer himself, and for good reason. A fashion watch to rule them all.

9A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1This is the watch that set the revived Glashütte institution firmly back on its path to recovery, and its beautifully composed dial hasn’t dated a jot since the brand’s 1990 rebirth.

10Bulgari Octo SteelBringing the Roman brand’s talents as a contemporary jewellery designer to the fore, this elegantly faceted watch is a halo model for the long haul.


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The UK’s premier fine watch exhibition returns for its fifth edition to the

SAATCHI GALLERY London

7–9 NOVEMBER 2013

To receive an exclusive offer of 10% off your tickets, please visit www.salonqp.com and enter the code “TEMPUSQP13” or call 020 7428 2916.

A. Lange & SöhneAkriviAAndreas StrehlerArmin StromBadolletBallouardBell & RossBremont Watch CompanyBreva GenèveChristophe ClaretDe BethuneFondation de la Haute HorologerieFrédérique ConstantH. Moser & CieHermèsHoptroffHYT WatchesJordiKonstantin ChaykinLaurent FerrierMatthias NaeschkeMB&F

MCT WatchesMeisterSingerMeridian WatchesMühle GlashütteNomos GlashüttePeter RobertsRessenceRobert Loomes StamfordRomain GauthierSarpanevaSchofieldSpeake-MarinTAG HeuerThomas MercerU-BoatUrwerkTimekeeper TechnikVoutilainenWatches of KnightsbridgeZenithZeitwinkel

Confirmed brands

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Made by movement

Turbine Xl, A1050/1Technology of The Double roTor.

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Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM

Tel: (+84)4 23 234567

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Tel: 020 3372 0108

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Words – Alex Doak

- g i f t g u i d e -

The annual, global head-scratch for gift ideas commences in earnest this month, but have no fear – Tempus magazine is here to inspire the more discerning and generous souls amongst you,

with an eclectic selection, from Westwood wash bags to mohair from McQueen

the

Wish list

079_gift guide.indd 79 25/10/2013 11:18

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The McQ diffusion line for Alexander McQueen gets all warm and cosy with this Degrade Mohair Dress. £675, harrods.com

Fashionista, lady who lunches, glamourpuss… Whoever she is, there’s bound to be something to tickle her fancy here. Always spend as much as you can, chaps – you

won’t regret it. And she won’t forget it.

For

The lady in your life

This Primavera bangle from Roberto Coin has thin interwoven gold threads that lend elasticity. €2,120, frostoflondon.co.uk

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Scion of a Singapore tannery, Ethan K’s technicolour ‘Wildlife Collection’ minaudières (or evening clutches) are pure class. From £1,150, harrods.com

Up-and-coming British luxury brand Lily and Lionel’s Papillio Fuchsia scarf will inject an edgy sense of colour into your beloved’s yuletide festivities. £295, harrods.com

Linley’s Erté Box velveteen jewellery box boasts an abalone mother of pearl design inspired by the illustrations of Erté (Romain de Tirtoff). £8,500, davidlinley.com

Haute Italian perfume house Xerjoff presents the world’s most refined Iris perfume, IRISSS, in technicolour Murano Glass pochettes. €550, xerjoff.com

New jewellery brand Amishi also do a fabulous line in sparkly handbags and clutches, including this Swarovski Dim Lime. £699, amishi.eu

Tempus favourite Borgioni has a bohemian edge, borne out by this Diamond Pyramid Double Finger Ring in rose gold. £2,239, frostoflondon.co.uk

079_gift guide.indd 81 25/10/2013 11:19

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For

The man about townEvery dapper gent worth his weight in suede will appreciate our selection of

accoutrements, helping him stay impeccably groomed and sharp suited. Circle what you fancy with a red pen and leave this magazine open at the

right page for ultimate persuasion.

A velvet dinner jacket from Harrods’ own-label men’s fashion, perfect for party season. £799, harrods.com

Dunhill ventures into unusually ultra-uxe territory with its Croc 24hour bag in black. £25,500, dunhill.co.uk

079_gift guide.indd 82 25/10/2013 11:20

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If you can’t afford Jeeves himself, the Gentleman’s Valet Company’s edgy suit stands are a close substitute. From £2,500, sambrownfurniture.co.uk

For the social butterfly, Quintessentially’s Lifestyle Membership is a must. Best seats in the house, every time. From £1,500, quintessentially.com

A rare, gold Longines with enamel dial (1925) from Sotheby’s former watch expert Alex Barter’s new vintage store. £985, blackbough.co.uk

Fresh from Great Gatsby costume responsibilities, Brooks Brothers now offer would-be Jays this Cedar Shoe Valet. £135, brooksbrothers.com

A deeply covetable and highly hygienic shaving set from Italian fragrance brand Culti. £299, harrods.com

For the homebound dandy, a pair of velvet slippers from Jermyn Street tailor, New & Lingwood. £250, newandlingwood.com

Add a touch of exotica to your man’s French cuffs with these safari-influenced Zebra links from Shamballa Jewels. £11,647, frostoflondon.co.uk

Made from material almost as hard as diamond, the Guardian provides unique protection for up to six watches. €14,500, doettling.com

More than ten natural ingredients make up Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Assoluta Fragrance. £110, houseoffraser.co.uk

079_gift guide.indd 83 25/10/2013 11:24

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FOR

The technophileThe nerds have inherited the Earth, which means we’re all bound to our gadgets these days. So it’s just as well they come in shapes and sizes as desirable as all this. Remember those multipacks of

blank Memorex cassettes you used to get in your stocking? Things have most definitely moved on since…

There are iPad cases, and then there are iPad cases from fashion brands like Chloé. Checking your email was never so chic. £314, monnierfreres.co.uk

Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee & Co market a range of ‘upcycled’ gifts as ‘P.Arts’, like this iPod brake-caliper dock. £995, astonstore.co.uk

Audi Design has drafted this uber-cool iteration of Leica’s compact ‘C’ camera, available in dark red as well as light gold. £550, leica-camera.com

Difficult to imagine how a USB memory stick could ever look sexy, so Empty Memory have done the imagining for you. In rose gold. £60, harrods.com

Branching even further away from laptop cases for sober businessmen, Tumi’s Monster Headphones are their coolest venture yet. £395, tumi.com

Venus of Cupertino’s iPad holders took the London Design Festival by storm with their witty subversion of classical figures. £169, harrods.com

The Libratone Loop wireless speaker will fill your room with sound and great, colourful design. Also in salty grey and pepper black. £399, johnlewis.com

079_gift guide.indd 84 25/10/2013 11:20

Rapport Watch WindersThe Ultimate Winder for Prestige Automatic Watches

www.rapportlondon.com

Exclusive online offer for Tempus readers

10% Discount off the website collection

Use the offer code “TEMPUS” at the checkout – available for a limited period only

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000_Ad.indd 1 29/10/2013 14:34

000_Ad.indd 1 29/10/2013 14:35

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FOR

The houseproudSome seasonal offerings for both his and her enjoyment – stylish accessories, décor and objets to spice up even the most cluttered

homes. Definitely a route worth exploring when it comes to those “what do you get the person who has

everything?” dilemmas.If you’re going to enjoy a smoke this Christmas, best make it as classy as you can – something Hermès are good at. £446, harrods.com

The closest Hollywood could ever get to fine art are the posters it produces. This Breakfast at Tiffany’s original (1961) is to die for. £9,500, reelartpress.com

This silver jam jar from Italian jeweller and silverware house Buccellati will add a touch of Renaissance pizzazz to any worktop. £4,200, buccellati.com

For those who take their home cheffery very seriously indeed, this rosewood Puiforcat knife block is the ultimate countertop accessory. £2,275, puiforcat.com

By Boxing Day, board games (and maybe another glass of something) are the key to family harmony. Allow Smythson to help. £360, smythson.com

Breaking away from their fusty image of dusty collectables, porcelain masters Meissen's Dragon Mugs will look great in every kitchen. £321, harrods.com

New to the UK is hip US homewares brand West Elm, whose Dapper animal plates are a sheer joy. £5.84 each, westelm.com

079_gift guide.indd 87 25/10/2013 11:47

Vertigo (1958)US 41 x 27 in. (104 x 69 cm)Art By: Saul Bass (1920-1996)

This Gun For Hire (1942)US 41 x 27 in. (104 x 69 cm)

Dr. No (1962)British 30 x 40 in. (76 x 102 cm)Art By: Mitchell Hooks (b. 1923)

Tel: +44 (0)7970 846 703 www.reelposter.com [email protected]

By appointment only in central London. Exhibiting at 15-19 January ORIGINAL VINTAGE FILM POSTERS

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For

The home bartendersTo our simultaneous delight and slight shame, Christmas is a merry time invariably made much merrier by the application of alcohol. But as well as lubricating social proceedings, a fine tipple or two always

makes a surefire hit of a gift. (Name us one time you were disappointed to unwrap a bottle.)

For a unique gift, Glasgow brewery WEST will provide you a bespoke beer. £130 (+VAT) per 50-litre keg, 30 keg minimum order, westbeer.com

Another beautiful bit of cabinetry from Linley, this Trafalgar Triple Tantalus will illuminate the grumpiest Xmas visage. £4,500, davidlinley.com

Alessi retain a design edge, no matter what the object or era. This cocktail shaker in 18/10 stainless steel is mirror polished by Sylvia Stave. £210, alessi.com

Japan’s pioneering whisky brand Yamazaki has teamed up with luxury British leather designer Bill Amberg to create a special collection just in time for Christmas. £1,400, whiskyshop.com

Macallan has unveiled a decanter, ‘M’, with creative director Fabien Baron and crystalmaker Lalique. A run of 1,750, each at £3,000, themacallan.com

079_gift guide.indd 89 25/10/2013 11:48

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FOR

StockingsExchanging stockings could be one of the most romantic

things to do as a couple over the festive season, so best you start

compiling that killer assortment of smaller gifts very soon…

Suitable for style-conscious boys as well as girls, Paul Smith’s signature rainbow of pastels will jazz up the most battered of iPhones. £101, monnierfreres.co.uk

One for punk princesses is this Valentino Rockstud Leather Cuff, perfect for a spot of yuletide attitude. £190, harrods.com

Confined to your bathroom countertop, only those who get lucky will get to admire your stunning Vivienne Westwood wash bag. £209, harrods.com

Not the cheapest stocking filler, but the Montegrappa Piccola Diamanti fountain pen is a magnificent writing instrument. £5,650, montegrappa.com

What about a bespoke autobiography for your relatives? Based on interviews with the author by a ghostwriter. From £2,975, lifebookuk.com

Finnish jewellery brand Lapponia is reviving its iconic Flame Bronze range from the 1970s. This Isotta Fraschini ring is fabulous. £295, lapponia.com

A centrepiece of any coffee table, this Pearl candle from scent gurus Baobab will banish those fuggy Christmas fumes. £65, baobabcollection.com

Lomography’s Diana camera offers a real-world Instagram – the perfect antidote to our all-pervading culture of ethereal cyber-snappery. £119, lomography.com

079_gift guide.indd 90 25/10/2013 11:48

INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION

A REFLECTION OF YOUR STYLE

Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616

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Private Treaty SalesClassic, Sports, Race

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Private Treaty SalesClassic, Sports, Race

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- M e c c a n i c h e v e l o c i -

Is there a watch aficionado out there who doesn’t also harbour a passion for fast cars? The link between the two has been extensively documented, with scores of top brands – from Hublot to IWC to Breitling – linking up with luxury motoring marques to produce limited edition timepieces.

Italy is arguably the European nation that’s home to the most enthusiastic petrolheads. For proof, look no further than the obsessive Ferrari fans – the tifosi – who attend F1 races at Monza. It’s little wonder, then, that a motor racing-influenced premium watch brand also hails from the spiritual home of automotive excellence.

That brand is Meccaniche Veloci (‘mechanical speed’) which, since 2006, has combined elements of motor engineering with high quality watch craftsmanship, resulting in timepieces that are both striking and unique. These are large, unashamedly masculine pieces, some of which use materials that have been sourced from racing cars, bikes and even helicopters. A statement watch, then, but one that eschews the bling so beloved of other bold men’s watch brands, in favour of a tougher, stripped back aesthetic.

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Words - Scott Manson

Meccaniche Veloci’s thrilling timepieces take their inspiration from the adrenaline-fuelled

world of motorsports

Drivingf o r c e

094_velocci.indd 94 25/10/2013 10:25

A MAN’S WORLD Meccaniche Veloci’s Chrono Driver encapsulates the firm’s stripped-down, masculine ethos

094_velocci.indd 95 25/10/2013 10:25

EXTREME SPORTThe firm’s blend of motor

and watch technology in models like the motorbike-

inspired Naked, left, and the CCM (made from the

same material as Brembo carbon disc brakes), right,

attracts celebrity fans, including rugby star

Martin Castrogiovanni


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094_velocci.indd 96 25/10/2013 10:25

“I discovered this brand at Baselworld, and I fell in love with it,” says Sergio Cielo, founder and president of Cielo Venezia 1270, the Italian luxury goods company that includes Meccaniche Veloci in its ‘brand umbrella’. “Just as the brand was born out of men’s passion for speed and challenges, I love doing challenging things in my life. So I decided to take this challenge too, and launch internationally.”

Since then, the brand has continued to evolve. From its initial offering, the Quattro Valvole, with its four movement, four time zone face that took its design cues from a famous four valve Ferrari engine, to later iterations that include a power reserve model and a dual time zone version, they proved an instant hit with a new, demanding breed of watch fans.

“Our customers are a broad mix,” says Cielo. “Of course there are those who are passionate about speed, motorsports and watches. But we also have football players – Cristiano Ronaldo is a fan – plus VIPs, CEOs and so on. The Italian rugby star Martin Castrogiovanni is also one of our brand ambassadors.”

Unsurprisingly for a brand built on a love of adrenaline-fuelled adventure, the Meccaniche Veloci designers continue to reveal thrilling new models. These include a collaboration with Brembo, manufacturer of disc brakes for sports cars, on the CCM limited edition models. Taking the brake’s carbon ceramic materials as a starting point, Meccaniche Veloci uses high-pressure water jet technology to mould the tough material and transform it into the

“The brand was born out of men’s passion for speed and challenges.”

094_velocci.indd 97 25/10/2013 10:26

FAST TIMES The Quattro Valvole

Only One range uses material from high-performance speed machines, like the

body of a F1 car

- 98 -

thin plates of the dials of this special collection. It’s this kind of sexy tech that’s seen the brand garner such excitement from collectors.

The most popular piece to date, though, is the innovative Quattro Valvole Only One. Genuinely one-of-a-kind, each watch in this collection is constructed using recovered materials from the world of speed, such as the fibreglass body of a Ferrari Formula 1 car, a helicopter’s fuselage or the petrol tank of a Moto GP bike.

“We literally travel the world to source special components which have been used for speed and sports competitions throughout history. No one will own the same watch as you,” says Cielo.

A skeletonised Quattro Valvole and a neat driver’s watch, the Chrono Driver – which offers an adjustable case position for ease of viewing while you are doing some speedy motoring – complete Meccaniche Veloci’s core collections. Of course, there are a number of luxury limited editions also available, plus the occasional suprising bespoke request.

Says Cielo: “We were once asked to create a unique piece made of gold and diamonds for a princess from Arabia. I have to be very secretive on her name!”

This is a brand that has generated a serious and devoted following in a relatively short space of time and with next year’s Baselworld fast approaching, you can expect Cielo and his team to produce a suitably full throttle offering for the world’s biggest watch show. The Meccaniche Veloci journey has only just begun. frostoflondon.co.uk

What can’t you live without?Definitely my company.

Would you rather create a groundbreaking watch or get to walk on the moon for 10 minutes? Walk on the moon... to be inspired for a new groundbreaking watch!

When you meet people at a party, what’s the first thing they say when you tell them what you do for a living? The first thing they say is “Your watch is awesome”, before I’ve even mentioned my watch company.

If you were put in charge of the watch industry for the day, what rules would you impose? I don’t like to impose rules, I think that being independent and free is a prerequisite for being creative, and for guaranteeing innovation in the watch industry.

Having achieved so much already, what’s next for your brand? We’ll work on developing new functions in our watches, by being consistent to our own essence at the same time. We’re planning to cover new market segments.

In Brief Sergio Cielo

“No one will own the same watch as you.”


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R E D E F I N I N G T H E L U X U R Y C H A L E T E X P E R I E N C E

www.bRAmbLEskI.ComVERbIER - VILLARs - sT. ANToN - LECH

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Words – Alex Doak- s k i s p e c i a l -

The third instalment in our luxury skiing series ventures further afield, leaving Switzerland and France behind us, Tyrol before us, and all manner of exotic slopes ahead, from Finland to the

Rockies. Here’s Tempus’s pick of the less obvious resorts and their most luxurious chalets

b e y o n d t h e a l p s

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Fairmont Banff Springs, Alberta, CanadaNorth American ski hotels don’t come much grander than this. Built in 1887 in the Scottish Baronial architectural style, it sits in the idyllic surroundings of the vast Banff National Park. It’s been dubbed ‘the castle in the Rockies’ and within its historically elegant facade lie bars and restaurants of varying formalities, an Olympic-size swimming pool and a staggering 1,200-strong staff catering to your every whim. Little wonder National Geographic magazine voted it number five in its Top Ski Runs and Lodges list.fairmont.com

Gandhara, Deer Valley, Utah, USAWith artworks by Banksy and mountain views by God, this quirkily designed six-bedroom chalet is the ultimate in ski-in, ski-out heaven. Eleven-thousand square feet and situated in the gated Deer Crest community, it includes a salt water hot tub – perfect for easing aching muscles – plus an outdoor fire pit, bar, pool room, cinema and a floor-to-ceiling fireplace in the living room. oxfordski.com

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Belmont Estate, Whistler, British Columbia, CanadaJust 15 minutes from the centre of BC’s world-renowned Whistler ski resort in the exclusive neighbourhood of Stonebridge, few chalets can boast seven acres of land as Belmont does. The estate is perched on the mountainside, allowing for jaw-dropping views across the valley’s ski runs. But its most unique attribute? It has a helipad right outside the door. Forget ‘ski in, ski out’, hello ‘heliski in, heliski out’.luxurychaletcollection.com

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Sailer Residence, Kitzbühel, AustriaTechnically still Alpine, but specifically more Tyrolean, the chocolate-box pretty medieval town of Kitzbühel boasts this remarkable property. The owners gave their architect a blank sheet and their interior designers a blank cheque, sparing no expense when it came to top-shelf features such as the touchscreen multi-media system, leather-clad walls and solarium showers.kitzbuehel-lodges.com

Chalet Überhaus, Lech, AustriaNestling in the exclusive enclave of Austria’s Oberlech with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, this ski-in and ski-out chalet is one of Lech’s most prestigious luxury properties. It combines traditional materials with contemporary design and sumptuous soft furnishings to create an unusually modern and super-sophisticated mountain retreat. The chalet’s relaxation area and spa is equipped with an outdoor hot tub, sauna, hammam, fitness area, massage room, snooker room, bar, library, and a cinema.brambleski.com

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Saint-Tropez • Sardinia • Ibiza • Punta del Este • St.Moritz • Kitzbuehel • Megeve • Courchevel • Verbier

Experts in Luxury Chalet and Villa Rentals Worldwidewww.rhein-property.com • [email protected] • +49.40.43213610

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BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND LUXURY LOG CHALETSNestled in the beautiful wilderness of Finnish Lapland, the accommodation and private chalets of Hotel Ruka Peak o�er a comfortable stay for business, conference and holiday travellers.

Our hotel restaurant serves Scandinavian food in a setting surrounded by exquisite natural beauty. Our delectable dishes are prepared from fresh, locally grown ingredients, and served with quality wines from our own wine cellar.

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Located by a secluded lake in Finland, the Villa Vuosselinranta allows you to spend your holiday in utter serenity


Villa Vuosselinranta, Ruka Peak, FinlandWith its interior clad spectacularly with wooden logs, this new villa by deepest Finland’s secluded lake Vuosselijärvi is a fail-safe choice if you want to spend your holiday in utter serenity, yet still close enough to services, such as slopes and restaurants. And if it’s booked up? You won’t go far wrong with the neighbouring Ruka Peak Chalet hotel.rukapeak.fi

Bighorn, Revelstoke, CanadaSituated in the heart of Canada’s heliski terrain and, of course, boasting its own helipad, Bighorn is a full service private retreat that, post-ski, also offers a gastronomic odyssey courtesy of the in-house award-winning chef. There are eight bedrooms, each with their own iPad and gas fireplace, in this outstanding property. It sleeps up to 15 people, and includes an immense living area, pool room and more. If bad weather prevents helisking, the nearby lift can whisk you to the top of Revelstoke Mountain Resort, which offers the most vertical feet (5,620) of any resort in North America. firefly-collection,com

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One Happo, Hakuba, Japan

Could this be the most impressive ski chalet in Asia? Undoubtedly. One of the best in the world? For its size, most probably. Location, amenities and utter exclusivity combine to make One Happo truly unique. Directly facing the main Happo resort gondola and the slopes that hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics slopes, the chalet offers unbeatable access to world-class powder. There is a wow-factor at every turn: a glass top pool table (the first ever imported into Japan), a floor-to-ceiling glass wine room, even a teppanyaki counter. And every en-suite bedroom either offers views of the mountain or the beautiful secluded Wadano forest. onechalets.com

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Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch, Colorado, USAModelled in the style of the grand lodges of Yellowstone and Yosemite, this log-and-stone property sits next to the slopes of Beaver Creek. From Spago, the Wolfgang Puck-helmed flagship restaurant, to its marble bathrooms with soaking tubs, superb 21,000-sq ft spa and lively après ski scene, this is one of Colorado’s finest hotels.ritzcarlton.com

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[email protected]

T: 01733 380687

Take a journey and discover our Land Rover creative heritage. Work with the Icon team to form

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- Q & A -

Words – Sam Teimao

Tell us about your background? I worked for Mark Hix at The Ivy, Caprice and Brown’s Hotel. But I first fell into the business by happy accident, taking on a lowly dish-washing job in a kitchen in Wellington, New Zealand.

What can we expect from your book? Like all chefs I’ve gathered plenty of tips in my career, many of which are here, such as how to poach an egg and how to achieve perfect crackling. Pour boiling water over the meat before cooking, to encourage the rind to shrink away from the fat, since you ask. I’d barely set my foot through the door

at Roast before I was taking the staff on road trips in my quest to unearth the best British produce to include.

When did your love affair with British food begin? When I arrived here in 2001, really. I think it’s important to use ingredients close to hand wherever you are. My experience of cooking game started with Mark Hix and developed from there.

Have you ever tried hunting? The grouse shooting trip in Dumfries, Scotland, was a dream come true. I’d

In hIs new recipe guide Roast – A Very British Cookbook, Marcus Verberne – head chef at Roast – describes the food at his London Bridge restaurant as “simple but well-executed.” The same can be said of its handsome interior. The 120-seat, glass-sided, upper-level dining room was once a Covent Garden floral hall, before being shipped over the river and rebuilt above Borough Market. now a listed building, this architectural delight creates a wonderfully light and airy atmosphere in which to enjoy some of the UK’s finest produce.

Marcus, a Kiwi who has lived in Britain for more than ten years, two of them spent running Roast’s kitchen, has tried his hand at scallop diving, grouse-shooting and seashore foraging in the name of research for the book. There are more than 150 recipes, including several from the restaurant’s menu, such as the perennially popular pork belly. They roast around 140 whole bellies a week and, after sampling one on a recent visit, Tempus can confirm that it’s a cracking (or should that be crackling?) hunk of meat.

The chief of

beefOne of British food’s greatest advocates is a New Zealander – chef Marcus Verberne

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- q & A -

been cooking it for so many years – it’s my favourite because it’s so unique – so to actually shoot and cook one was great. I also do a lot of fishing. I’m just back from a holiday in north Russia fishing for pike in a remote river. It happened on a sunny 30 degree day in phenomenally beautiful surroundings.

There are a lot of references to Scotland in the book, what is your connection? I love Scotland, it reminds me of New Zealand. I love driving around through the Grampian mountain range. Really, most of what you’ll find in the book is a preview of what to expect on the menu in the future, plus stories of quirky finds from across the British Isles. There are ideas for working with currently seasonal produce such as winter greens, sprouts and root vegetables, and game fans will find variations on winter roasts using geese to grouse, rabbit to red deer shanks.

Where else in the British Isles do the recipes in your book take us? The Isle of Mull for scallops, Lancashire for poultry and Essex for pork.

Do you shop at Borough Market, below the restaurant? I call it the best outdoor supermarket in London. I’ll buy rare wild boar that is bred in Cumbria and we buy our vegetables from a visiting wholesaler. I also go to Neal’s Yard Dairy for cheese.

Tell us about the foraging firm you use. Miles Erving is a foraging guru with a phenomenal knowledge of British herbs and vegetables. There is big section in the book about our foraging adventures together. In the kitchen, I use mushrooms and berries, a lot of wild herbs, cress and salady stuff. They create interesting, robust flavours. More chefs are using these products these days, just as hunter-gatherers used to years ago. So you don’t miss cooking for The Ivy’s roll call of celebrity diners? I was never phased by anyone, apart from Harrison Ford. To cook for my childhood idol Indiana Jones was a great pleasure. What did you eat for your last meal? I went for dinner at 22 North Street, a fantastic little restaurant close to Clapham Common. I had a wood pigeon wellington for starter and a lamb rump.

What are you like to work for? Cool and collected or a sweary Ramsay-style boss? Probably a little bit Jekyll and Hyde but I care about my staff. We are a family, because we spend so much time with each other every day.

What has been a greatest extravagance? I went to surprise a brother who lives in America, but he wasn’t there. He was visiting me. We crossed over in the air and I didn’t find out until I heard my messages

when I got back. I burst into tears. I hadn’t seen him for about three years.

We’re moving in to the holiday gifting season – what purchase have you got your eye on? I don’t like to part with money but one day I’d really like to have a nice car, an old classic two-door Mercedes from the late 60s or early 70s, before they started to go square-shaped. And with Christmas coming up, I’d love to get a new Apple Mac. My current laptop is about to expire.

What are your plans for the future? I originally intended to visit the UK for two or three years, travel Europe, and then head back home via South East Asia. But I stayed here. I still want to do a six-month trek though. You see, I don’t spend money on ‘things’, as such. The bulk will go on travelling and new adventures, I love that sort of thing. Saying that, I see myself staying put for a while to see where it takes me before, eventually, it would be nice to take my wife back home. My UK adventure has a way to go yet though!

Roast: A VeryBritish Cookbook is on sale nowroast-restaurant.com

“To cook for my childhood idol Indiana Jones was a great pleasure”

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BOLD STATEMENTS: Theo Fennell’s Gandhi ring (above) and King’s Road Railings Bracelet (right) epitomise his quirky style

Words – Alex Doak

New to Frost of London is an Italian jewellery brand for alpha males to get truly excited about. Sales director Alberto Muraro explains why Barakà’s intricately articulated pieces could be the

butchest baubles around

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m e n o n ly

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Wearing jeWellery that’s fancier than a watch, signet ring, wedding ring, gold necklace or cufflinks? rest assured, chaps – it’s officially an ‘OK thing to do’ these days.

indeed, the phenomenon of men choosing to enter a jeweller’s without the forceful nudge of a female companion is no longer something made up by the fruitier fashion pages: the community of male jewellery lovers is expanding. and they’re not just rock stars, rappers, post-gap-yah trustafarians or russell Brand wannabes; more and more men are seeking out jewellery they like and styling it in a way that works for them, whether it’s with their suit or ripped jeans.

Critically the old adage of men being less driven by labels and ‘fashion’ than women, and more by long-lasting quality and ‘style’ applies just as much to their jewellery habit as their wardrobe. Which is where Barakà comes in.

an old italian name (where else other than italy, the heart of progressive men’s style?), Barakà was revived at the hands of master Vicenzan goldsmiths Muraro lorenzo in 2011 and quickly distinguished itself for innovative materials, including ceramic, carbon fibre and aluminium, not to mention some clever allusions to industrial engineering.

reassuringly blokey stuff, in other words – stuff that’s built to last and not beholden to passing whims.

“after gaining fame in the italian market,” explains sales director alberto Muraro, “we decided to expand abroad – and above all into the growing men’s jewellery market – by investing in the only brand that has been in the international men’s market for over 30 years.”

So, if it isn’t your typical fashionista buying Barakà, who did Muraro hope to attract?

“The Barakà customer is a businessman who travels and knows how to enjoy life,” Muraro

m e n o n ly

CLUB CLASS: A pendant from

Barakà’s Clipper range, inspired by a famed ‘flying boat’

passenger aeroplane of the 1940s

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Andaz Liverpool Street hotel is delighted to announce a festive Christmas collaboration with East London’s iconic Old Spitalfields Market which will be unveiled in late November. Andaz will literally be going Ape this season and feature a golden gorilla Christmas window installation, designed by Old Spitalfields Market.

In contrast to the famous winter wonderland windows of London’s West End shops, the Christmas windows of the 5-star boutique hotel will be lighting up the East London streets in a whole new light by using inspiring local talent. The festive collaboration will see the hotel’s windows and some public spaces transform into a series of installations to reflect the spirit of the hotel, Old Spitalfields Market and the unique character of the East End.

Chosen for their fun, free and joyful reputation, the playful and creative fusion of apes and Christmas provides an eclectic parallel to Andaz Liverpool Street and Old Spitalfields Market.

From fanciful banana-themed pies, to tasty King Kong cocktails and eye-catching ape displays, guests can’t help but go Ape and get into the Christmas spirit at Andaz Liverpool Street.

london.liverpoolstreet.andaz.hyatt.com

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continues. “He’s very attentive to jewellery design, but also to how it was come up with, created and made. He doesn’t want just an attractive object, he also wants something that is well-made and expresses his personality.”

Muraro’s family firm has been thriving in northeast Italy since 1975, as the designer-makers of the Comete brand – domestically a huge operation, with pieces crafted so ornately as to demand a vast in-house workforce of 60 master goldsmiths, plus some impressively high-tech CNC manufacturing technology. Which stands their latest venture in very good stead:

“The Barakà brand has always been characterised by its technical and innovative products, as well as its cutting-edge production methods,” says Muraro. “We’re adding value by bringing out the artistic value.”

Barakà’s signature feature, and undoubtedly the most appealing feature for men of a practical bent, is its cardanic joint – a clever articulation featured throughout the 1980s in Barakà’s Gold

CHAIN REACTION: This Clipper chain of rose gold and steel is an elegant encapsulation of Barakà’s technical excellence

Bracelet with Double Cardan Movement.Otherwise known as a ‘universal’ joint,

a cardanic joint couples two rigid rods via two gimbals, commonly used in driveshafts to transmit rotary motion. Fittingly, the first person known to have suggested the cardanic joint’s use for transmitting motive power was an renowned 16th-century Italian mathematician, Gerolamo Cardano.

The current collection features bracelets with one of these joints between every link, giving an addictively tactile feeling on the wrist, not to mention a highly techy, bicycle-chain

“The Barakà brand has been characterised

by its technical and innovative products,

and cutting-edge production methods”

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look. New to this year, however, is the most extraordinary expression of this technology yet: the Clipper collection.

There’s a real Boy’s Own story behind Clipper. It celebrates the adventure of the Pacific Clipper – a famed example of Boeing’s B-314 flying boat, whose twisted propeller blades inspired the helicoidal form of the jewellery’s cardanic links. The ‘five-star hotel for the air’ famously covered over 31,500 miles throughout December 1941, having been diverted to New York from Auckland at the outbreak of the Pacific war, to avoid Japanese fighters.

If that’s a little militant for your liking, there’s always Barakà’s 316L collection instead. ‘316L’ refers to a particular grade of stainless steel used in the spire of Manhattan’s Chrysler Building, which in 1930 was the tallest in the world. The design of every bracelet plays on the skyscraper’s

iconic Art Deco motifs, combining said 316L steel with gold and diamonds. These arched and fluted elements are, in turn, set sparingly on a pair of woven-cable bangles, which offer extraordinary resistance to stress – not entirely unlike the cables on a suspension bridge.

“Our theme collections are the pride of our brand,” says Muraro. “That’s exactly why these collections are inspired by great manmade works, both technical and artistic. We feel that architecture and engineering in all their forms are the maximum expression of human knowledge.”

Whether you choose to buy into that or the plain fact that Barakà’s pieces look and feel super smart, the end result is a chap wearing jewellery that’s doing the impossible: making him look even more manly.baraka.it

In Brief: Alberto MuraroWhat is the best piece of jewellery you could have?The piece that, each time you look at it, makes you happy and fulfils you. At times, a simple piece of satin is much more valuable than a diamond for the sole reason that your child gave it to you. Which is more valuable: a famous painting or the first drawing your child made?

Apart from jewellery, cars and homes, what is your favourite luxury dream?Being connected to the world is increasingly necessary and essential. The Barakà customer loves travelling and I think that a private jet is one of the best luxury items you can invest in.

What does the world of jewellery have to learn?Those who continue selling ‘just’ jewellery are not in step with the times. For example, in another sector you could say that in order to sell a mobile phone the phone just has to work… Today, knowing how to sell also means knowing how to communicate and make the end customer perceive your ideals. If the customer shares them, then he or she will purchase the jewellery in order to express those ideals in turn.

If you weren’t a jeweller what would you be?A jeweller!

Who is your hero and why?Henry Ford and I’ll explain why with one of his quotes: “If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have said a faster horse, but instead I wanted to sell them a car.” Each morning I wake up and think about Barakà in the same way.

“We feel that architecture and engineering in all their forms are the maximum expression of

human knowledge”

ToWEr oF sTrEngTH: Barakà’s 316L bangles are made from a grade of steel used by new York’s Chrysler Building

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Words – Juliet Kinsman

- t r av e l t r e n d s -

winterhot list

From classic city hotels to contemporary coastal cool,

Tempus takes the pulse of the best in winter luxury travel

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1 Barbershop groomingGet a cut-throat shave at SpaQ in QT Sydney or hop in a cutting chair at

Gentlemen’s Tonic Express at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, the excellent Sicilian barbershop at London’s Dolce & Gabbana store (ask for master barber Carmelo Guastella) or Rudy’s Barbershop at the Ace New York for a hip snip. The Art Deco Mandarin Barber has been offering traditional shaves for half a century at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong since it first opened. qtsydney.com.au,dolcegabbana.com

2 Luxury all-inclusivesDon’t get stung at the end of your

stay with eye-watering bills brimming with unanticipated add-ons. Invest in a hotel where you’ll be lavished with all you need without any nasty surprises. No, we don’t mean resort to a Club Med, choose

intimate hideaways such as Antigua’s Curtain Bluff which has been throwing in all meals, drinks and watersports for ages. Hermitage Bay is a honeymooner’s haven on the Caribbean island which also offers this all-in approach in style.curtainbluff.com, hermitagebay.com

3 Afternoon teaClotted cream, scones, a piping pot of Earl Grey – not a new

combo, granted. But we’re keener than ever for silver cake-stands piled with pretty pâtisserie – particularly for special occasions. Order afternoon tea at Cliveden House hotel and get a side

of glorious National Trust gardens; emulate Downton Abbey with a whirl at Lucknam Park hotel and spa near Bath; simulate French-capital finesse with The Balcon’s French Goûter by Pierre Hermé Paris at Sofitel London St James. lucknampark.co.uk, sofitelstjames.com


TOO COOL: (Clockwise from top): D&G's London barbershop; Lucknam Park;Curtain Bluff



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Running to the sun just got easier, with British Airways opening a new

direct route to Gran Canaria

4 Direct flights Running to the sun just got easier. Chase Canary Island rays

with British Airways’ new route to Gran Canaria and, from spring, Austin in Texas and temperate Malta are also just a non-stop BA flight away.

5 Medi-spasBenefit from doctor-led therapies without holidaying in a hospital.

Spain’s Sha Wellness Clinic provides three-day programmes hinged on a macrobiotic diet. QMS Medicosmetics promise results-driven surgeon-devised skincare in the Thalassa Spa at Anassa Cyprus. Ayurveda and yoga are luring us to Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa, a new all-villa 70-acre sanctuary with 150 treatments in India’s Sahyadri Mountains. Nutrition and anti-ageing are the cornerstones of Dr Nyjon Eccles’ Vita Health programme at Verdura in Sicily. At Bulgari in Knightsbridge chiropodists await in Margaret Dabbs’s Foot Clinic. To lose weight, follow Margherita Missoni and Princess Caroline

of Monaco to medical detox spa Hotel Espace Henri Chenot, Palace Merano, Italy.hilton.com, anassa.com.cy, bulgarihotels.com, shawellnessclinic.com

6 Hammam timeMove over, Morocco, when it comes to world-class steam baths. Hit

the hammams at Cowshed Spa in Soho House Berlin, Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay in Turkey, Akasha at Conservatorium in Amsterdam, Pride of Britain’s Seaham Hall in County Durham and the Spa in Dolphin Square.kempinski.com, seaham-hall.co.uk

7 Marine biologistsResident ecology experts who are carrying out precious marine

conservation are treating divers to superlative underwater knowledge at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort in Fiji, Azura in Mozambique, Gaya Island Resort in Borneo, and in the Maldives at Park Hyatt Hadahaa and Niyama Per Aquum.fijiresort.com, niyama.peraquum.com

Fly AWAy: (Clockwise from top): Shillim spa; Niyama Per Aquum;Kempisnki Barbaros Bay


Forthcoming Auction:

11th December at Sotheby's London

On View:

Sotheby's34-35 New Bond StreetLondonW1A 2AA

10th December 9am to 4.30pm11th December 9am to 1pm

Auction at 2pm

Catalogue £17 by post

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8 Pocket binocularsForget the giant gadgets our granddads had – Swarovski

Optik’s fresh-from-the-lab Compact CL is the ultimate slim-fit pair of super-sharp spotters. From £540. swarovskioptik.com

9Birdwatching in EthiopiaThe Wattled Crane, Rouget’s Rail

and Ruddy Shelduck are among the many rare species awaiting twitchers at the new 15-suite luxury retreat Bale Mountain Lodge in this mist-shrouded East African woodland. Original Travel offers three-night stays from £489 a person. originaltravel.co.uk

10 Cigar terracesLondon may have long since banned lighting up

indoors, but it’s a smokers’ paradise if

you’re partial to a puff of Cuba’s finest. Cedarwood humidors and cosy outdoor seating areas (‘cosas’, if you will) are headline acts at Ten Manchester Street in Marylebone, The Wellesley and the Lanesborough Hotel in Knightsbridge, and Shoreditch’s Boundary. tenmanchesterstreethotel.com, thewellesley.co.uk

11 Culture and literatureBallet buffs, stay at Grand Hotel de Bordeaux and get exclusive

tickets for Prokoviev’s Romeo & Juliet at L’Opera National de Bordeaux, 16 December–1 January. Book lovers, brace yourselves for Damian Barr’s Literary Salon which has arrived at London’s Café Royal. Near Marrakesh, Fellah Hotel invites you to browse a bulging multi-lingual library in its arts centre.ghbordeaux.com, fellah-hotel.com

WiNTER THRiLL: (Clockwise from top): Bale Mountain Lodge; ballet in Paris; Ten Manchester St



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12 Unisexy baggageDesigners grabbing our attentions for their totes are JW

Anderson with his limited-edition Nikon 1 camera case (£85) and Moncler’s trio of black aluminium quilted-interior lightweight luggage from Rimowa, from £990store.nikon.co.uk, rimowa.de

13 Luggage conciergesGet suitcases ferried from A to B with First Luggage – they’ll

transfer skis in a tick, too. Prices start at £49 and vary according to size, weight and destination. When you’re back, dump your bags at a Johnsons dry cleaners and have contents washed and folded within 48 hours; from £10. firstluggage.com, johnsoncleaners.com/holiday-laundry

14 Courchevel belleUsurping the celebrated restaurant of the same name,

this season welcomes La Bergerie 1850 to the upscale Trois Vallées resort. A glam seven-bedroom chalet, it boasts a pool and cinema and a fleet that includes chef, chauffeur, masseur and beautician; from €125,000 a week. labergerie1850.com

15 Quality family timeParents with boutique-hotel tastes, don’t despair. Decent

kids’ clubs and sophisticated adult-friendly offerings do cohabit as Smith & Family, the Mr & Mrs Smith’s spin-off collection, attests. From classic grande dames to guesthouses with gusto at Smith-recommended properties, imaginative amenities are laid on thick. The most spoiled of sprogs will be especially wowed at Soneva Fushi’s new kids’ club extraordinaire in the Maldives. The manta-ray-shaped Den has its own pool with slide, pirate ship, zip line, disco, dress-up room cinema and Mocktail Bar smithandfamily.co.uk

16 In-room mixologyCocktail culture has trumped room service in many city

slicker hotels. In New York, The James is a dream for bedroom bartenders; perfectly proportioned sets of ingredients can be sent up to go with the recipes printed on pint glasses. At The Surrey, their own cocktail connoisseurs will load up a bar cart with all the fixings for your favourite blends and swing by to give lessons. jameshotels.com, thesurrey.com

Get suitcases taken from A to B with baggage concierge First Luggage; on return dump the bags at Johnson cleaners for washing and ironing

FUN IN The SUN: Smith & Family's child-friendly resorts include Soneva Fushi in the Maldives


toast of the town: The Surrey and The James are two of several New York hotels to offer in-room cocktail mixing



17 Swiss casual luxuryThe billionaire playground of Gstaad has a new boutique

cutie, Le Grand Bellevue. Opening just before Christmas, this reincarnation of a 100-year-old-palace hotel is a colourful Bamford-spa-studded stay run by Daniel and Davia Koetser. They met here a decade ago, when it was the Grand Hotel Bellevue. Now, as hoteliers, they promise a uniquely relaxed take on high-end Alpine chic. bellevue-gstaad.com

18 Valmont facialsCoworth Park has imported this exclusive Swiss anti-ageing range from its sister Dorchester Collection hotel in Paris and now its sophisticated Berkshire spa lavishes skin with a sumptuous dose of oxygen and collagen. coworthpark.com

19 Fruit managersRoman Abramovich is said to have a

dedicated member of staff just to keep all bowls replenished only with the perfect ripe-and-ready-

to-eat specimens on his superyacht and in a holiday

home. Maybe we should all demand one?

20 City cyclingBerlin and Amsterdam have

long been at it, and now, following the success of Paris’ Vélib and the London’s Boris bikes, New York’s got Citi Bikes (citibikenyc.com). All hail the places that loan you free wheels: The Bowery on the Lower East Side, King & Grove

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in Williamsburg, Public in Chicago, and Miami’s Townhouse. Rapha’s performance roadwear is ideal for urban bikers allergic to Lycra: lapelled jackets and wool-blend trousers come in durable fabrics and reflective add-ons. Get the gear from The Rapha Cycle Club New York City, now open at 64 Gansevoort Street in NYC’s Meatpacking District. rapha.cc

SWiSS BLiSS: (All picture boxes): Le Grand Bellevue, a soon-to-open boutique hotel in Gstaad


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Even the hardest nosed automotive cynics find themselves going weak-kneed at the sight of an Alfa Romeo. That said, the firm’s made itself difficult to love in recent years with forgettable hatchbacks rolling out of Italian factories and nothing - the limited run 8C Competizione excepted - to get excited about. Then Alfa showed the 4C concept, and the world has taken notice again. And so it should.

The 4C takes Alfa back to its core of sports cars. A lightweight two seater with carbon fibre in its construction sounds suitably exotic, even if its 1.7-litre turbocharged four-cylinder petrol engine doesn’t. Still, that turbo helps the 4C’s unit deliver a healthy 240hp, enough Alfa claims to get it to 62mph (100km/h) in 4.5 seconds and on to a potential 160mph maximum. The purists decry Alfa’s fitting of a twin-clutch, paddle-shifted automatic transmission, but it’s a good box and Alfa says there are no plans to make a manual version.

Inside it’s all refreshingly honest and simple, the passenger seat is fixed unless you pay for optional runners to move it, while the cabin is relatively stark. The carbon fibre weave it’s made from is apparent in there, though the steering wheel’s cut-off bottom leaves a little to be desired.

The driving itself is unabashed fun. There’s loads of grip, though you can fiddle with the settings of Alfa’s ‘DNA’ controller to liberate more control away from the traction and stability systems. Do so and the 4C is even more enjoyable, its performance feeling greater than the stats might suggest - primarily down to its low weight.

Alfa Romeo has re-discovered its mojo, the 4C a hot enough property to give its mundane hatchbacks a real halo boost in desirability. Not that any of that matters, as it’s an Alfa Romeo, which by definition means it’s beautiful, and you’ll want one. Only with the 4C, the beauty runs more than skin deep.

With the fabulous 4C, Alfa Romeo is back in business

Words – Kyle Fortune

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134_Motoring.indd 134 25/10/2013 17:11

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Stealth wealthDukes combines elegance with understatement

“Your drY martini sir?” asks a man in an impeccably-pressed white jacket. He’s friendly, but exudes an air of reverence (for the drink, i think, rather than for me) as he places before me the largest, purest and strongest incarnation of 007’s preferred refreshment that i have ever tasted. it’s all very low-key, but somehow feels like quite an event.

i’m sitting in the cosy, elegant comfort of the drawing room at dukes, a 105-year-old London five-star with a very rich history. The bar here is where Bond writer ian Fleming drank regularly and where, legend has it, he was inspired by the hotel’s barmen to pen “shaken, not stirred” as the dashing secret agent’s perennial words of micro-management

- h o t e l s -Words – Chris Elwell-Sutton

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to anyone who offered to fix him a drink. as i work my way through my martini, it occurs to me that this understated delivery of such a powerful and classic offering is representative of the distinctly English appeal of this fabulous hotel itself.

it’s taken me a little time to find the place, unsullied as it is by anything as vulgar as signposting and hidden down a pretty, leafy, private cul-de-sac in the heart of st James’ that has over the years hosted many famous

139_hotel.indd 139 25/10/2013 10:16

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names including Oscar Wilde, Lord Byron and Chopin. Sandwiched between Green Park and St James’s Palace and a stone’s throw from the Ritz and Buckingham Palace, it’s a little strip that estate agents would dub ‘super prime’ within the already highly exclusive Mayfair district. Both London’s most aristocratic wine merchants and the majority of the capital’s most resolutely blue-blooded gentlemen’s clubs are based within a radius of a few hundred metres.

This is probably exactly the way Dukes likes it. There’s no cheesy piped music here, no rewards programme and no nightclub. They don’t seem to be looking for passing trade. That’s not to say that those working at the hotel are stand-offish. From receptionists to barmen and porters, the staff are warm, helpful and cheerful. But there is nonetheless a sense of old-fashioned manners here, of standards that are not to be broken. From the tranquillity of the mews outside to the muted colour scheme of the room, the cool, classic marble bathroom fittings and the behaviour of other guests, I find that Dukes also conveys a sense of peace, civilisation and relaxation that’s rare in this part of town.

There was a time, perhaps 100 years ago, when the majority of top-drawer London hotels might have looked and felt very similar. Although banning smoking indoors is a concession to the 21st century that Dukes was ultimately obliged to make (grudgingly, I’m sure), the new cognac and cigar garden, elegantly festooned with white linen canopies overhead, provides a suitable backdrop for those seeking to re-live the days when the norm after a good dinner was a brandy and a satisfying smoke in tasteful surroundings.

As I leave this sanctuary and stroll past the bigger establishments on Piccadilly, it strikes me that part of what ensures that Dukes retains its character is the hotel’s ability to attract the right kind of guest. While many of its Mayfair neighbours appear determined to shout their ostentatiously blinged-out credentials from the rooftops and accordingly attract the type of visitor likely to be impressed by such gimmicks, Dukes remains quietly determined in its devotion to a low-key, luxurious, old-school ethos.

So raise a glass (a dry martini, naturally) to another 100 years of this venerable St James’s institution.

dukeshotel.com

139_hotel.indd 140 25/10/2013 10:17

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- s u p e rya c h t s -Words – Ellie Brade

One of the many thrills of this year’s America’s Cup was an official superyacht regatta held alongside the event in San Fransisco

The 34Th AmericA’s cup will go down in history as the most memorable in the race’s 162-year history for many reasons, including the cheating scandal that engulfed defenders Team Oracle usA, the tragic loss of British sailor Andrew simpson and for the sheer speed and performance of the boats themselves. Above all, the regatta will be remembered for the biggest comeback in yachting – and arguably sporting – history, staged by defenders Team Oracle usA who snatched the cup from challengers emirates Team New Zealand’s grasp, in a tense final series of racing that broke the hearts of New Zealanders around the world. New Zealand had got within

one race of winning, leading 8-1, but the Americans clawed back their lead, winning an astonishing eight races in a row to take both the regatta and the Auld mug.

With such thrilling racing on offer, it’s no surprise that superyachts and the America’s cup have have long been a winning mix, with yachts traditionally flocking to the host city to watch the racing first hand. 2013 was no exception and many superyachts – both sailing and motor – travelled to san Francisco to witness the racing spectacle. Back in 2000, host city Auckland held the first superyacht regatta to be raced alongside the cup – the millennium cup - and the tradition has continued ever since. in 2013 the

e y e s o n t h e p r i z e

Rule the Waves: Adela won a top prize at this year’s America’s Cup superyacht race

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Cup organisers officially hosted a superyacht programme alongside the Cup for the first time, offering a race right at the heart of the action, with superyacht racing taking place on San Francisco Bay during racing in the lay days of finals.

Many of the superyacht fleet’s most iconic sailing yachts took part in the regatta, including 30m Chrisco, 55.5m Adela, 55m Adele, 90m Athena and the replica of the original Cup winner America. With such a diverse fleet, racing followed the International Superyacht Rule with staggered starts with every yacht in it to win it.

Good winds and fine weather made for superb racing conditions and with close racing throughout by the end of day two Adela and Adele were neck and neck, drawn for the lead. Going in to the final day of racing it was all to play for. First across the line, America sailed consistently well and won the final race, but in the end it was Adela’s regatta, thanks to her win on day two.

Racing was rounded off with prize giving, with awards

including the Boat International America’s Cup Superyacht Regatta Trophy for Adela, and the Showboat award for Royal Huisman-built Athena, who put on a spectacular display by sailing under full canvas during race one. US Representative for Dutch yard Royal Huisman, Michael Koppstein, was hugely complementary about the spirit of the event. “Racing superyachts on the Bay with Alcatraz as a turning mark, and having the likes of Oracle and Emirates Team New Zealand foiling all around you, is all the atmosphere the superyacht regatta could have hoped for,” he said.

With the Auld Mug back in the hands of defenders Oracle Team USA, the build-up to the next America’s Cup has already begun. What the format will be is yet to be announced, but one thing is for certain; wherever the Auld Mug goes, superyachts will not be far away.

Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group.

written on the wind: Adele was a strong runner up in the Cup’s superyacht race

143_144 Yachts.indd 144 25/10/2013 17:09

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Now capable of astounding sound, portable speakers offer a world of truly wireless audio. We survey the best of the bunch

- T E C H N O L O G Y -Words – Alex Pell

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aroundsound

Harman Hardon Go + Play WirelessOnce it’s time to get the party stared, you’ll be glad you slung a Go + Play into the back of the Range Rover for your weekend away. Its vintage boombox styling and prominent stainless steel handle showcase what this beast is all about: serious bass in your face via either Bluetooth or standard audio line-in. � e USB connector is purely for recharging a playback gizmo and, speaking of which, the Harman will munch through eight D-cell batteries pretty quickly. £279, uk.harmankardon.com

146_Technology.indd 146 25/10/2013 15:30

Geneva Sound Model XS DAB+Add a slither of sonic sophistication to your hotel dressing table with this neat little speaker inspired by the classic travel clock. Its clamshell design unfurls to reveal an LED that acts as a clock and a display for the (optional) digital radio. � e faux-leather � nish evokes a time when travel was all about luxury. Where the Geneva scores is sound quality. � is speaker won’t shake the room yet it makes music eminently listenable despite the modest proportions. £219, genevalab.com

Loewe Speaker2GoLoewe is better known for swanky TVs that can be customised to match most types of décor. � e Speaker2Go is an elegant speaker, not dissimilar in size to a chihuahua, and with a surprisingly meaty bark. It has a few tricks up its sleeve, such as the ability to employ the higher-quality variant of Bluetooth known as apt X or to be paired instantly with any gizmos with NFC technology. It will also act as a hub for conference calls. � e Loewe goes louder than you’d expect given its slim dimensions and it doesn’t distort. £279, loewe.tv

Audio Pro Allroom Air OneMost portable speakers only o� er a choice of Bluetooth or a conventional 3.5mm line input to connect a musical source. � e Audio Pro is unusual in that it brings wi-� to the party by supporting the Apple Airplay standard and, crucially, it also plays nicely with most other types of smartphone too. You will be astonished that such good sound can emanate from such a relatively small box. Clad in a choice of red, white, or black leather. £500, audiopro.com

Libratone Zipp � is natty Libratone is surely the only portable speaker with woollen zip-up covers. Most rivals rely purely on Bluetooth or a line-input to connect up a music source but the Zipp supports Apple’s Airplay and also plays with most other brands of smartphone. Weighing in at about 1.8kg means you won’t want to hump it too far. £370, libratone.com

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146_Technology.indd 147 25/10/2013 15:33

Words – Claudia Avila-Batchelor- T R AV E L -

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Forget its package-holiday reputation: Mallorca offers upscale, sophisticated luxury to the superyacht crowd

p a s s p o r t t o

p l e a s u r e

I take a mouthful of the foie gras, its velvety texture melting in my mouth. I lose myself in the richness of apple and figs, and a touch of the silky liquorish mousse sees me sated. It feels like michelin-starred, big-city dining but I’m a million miles away from a metropolis. In fact, the closest conurbation to me is the party zone of magaluf, home of debauched goings on since the birth of the package holiday. Granted, I may be in mallorca, but this is the sophisticated side – an upmarket aspect of the island that the Balearic bigwigs are keen to promote.

The spanish live for pleasure and I am ready to embrace my latin side. The locally produced

wine, malvasia, is a masterpiece created from grapes that were extinct just a hundred years ago, but resurrected by forward-thinking producers 30 years ago. as I sip some, I give silent thanks to their oenological skills.

mallorca was always the more cultured big sister of the nearby Balearic islands of shy minorca and its naughty sibling Ibiza, but as it became known as a package holiday destination some of the gloss came off. It’s now rebuilding its former reputation with millions of euros of investment, particularly in the lesser-known Calvia region. situated on the island’s southwest, it’s fast becoming a cultural and epicurean centre

for the superyacht crowd, further validated by the recent inauguration of port adriano, a $96m architectural wonder designed by philippe starck. This is a place that’s truly got its mojo back.

We saw many sides to mallorca on our trip, each one a unique delight. The divinely preserved village of Valldemossa, a short 20-minute drive from palma, was one showstopper. founded in the 13th century, the village boasts striking architecture that projects an air of mystery, due in part to the area’s many secret passages. The compact stone homes and cobbled streets attract canny visitors

149_travel_calvia.indd 149 25/10/2013 15:42

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like ourselves, keen to immerse themselves in historical walks, while checking out the village’s many gastronomic offerings and quirky fashion boutiques.

Chopin lived here with the French writer George Sand in 1938, renting ‘cell number 4’ in the Cartusian Monastery. He composed some of his most famous works during that time, no doubt inspired by his travel companion (and also his lover), Amandine Dupin, a female writer who famously penned her novels under the male nom-de-plume of George Sand. The religious, conservative village was scandalised by Dupin’s novel A Winter in Mallorca, where ‘George Sand’ took her revenge on locals who were not kind

to her, by skewering them in prose. Personal items and relics can be seen at the monastery today, including Chopin’s Pleyel piano, whose keys gave birth to so many iconic compositions.

A short drive away, perched in the bosom of the Teix mountains, is the similarly stunning area of Deia, home to high rollers seeking refuge from the heat of the Calvian coastline. At its heart lies a medieval village, nestled among olive groves and overlooking lush valleys. Its size keeps it free from the tourist hordes: tour buses are too large to gain access, making the honeysuckle-scented maze of streets and Michelin-starred restaurants only available to a select few in the know. Artists and writers have for many years

secluded themselves in this heavenly corner, inspired by its beauty and protected by its privacy. Poet and writer Robert Graves made his home here – now a fascinating museum.

Those looking for a rather more lively experience are also well served. The region boasts some seriously hip clubs which showcase global music artists on a weekly basis. Top bands can be seen at Mallorca Rocks, sister to the Ibiza Rocks brand, and there are also superstar DJs spinning their tunes in nightspots such as BCM and Pacha. Newcomer Nikki Beach is also a must-check, particularly for those arriving by boat as it provides a tender service to the many floating gin palaces that pull up on its shoreline.

ISLAND LIFE: Mallorca combines historic sites like the village of Deia (left) with more traditional holiday activities

Mallorca is the more cultured big sister of the nearby Balearic islands of Minorca and Ibiza


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STAY…In the heritage-protected Melia de Mar hotel, an adults-only property, with some of the best contemporary design in the Balearics. Overlooking the King of Spain’s summer palace, there is arresting art on every floor and every spacious suite. All rooms have a sea view and the staff and service are impeccable. Head chef Marcos Carreros lets his Latin passion run wild with delightfully delicious creations. And if over indulging makes you feel guilty, there is a gym boasting a range of fitness classes and a bliss-inducing spa. The diamond facial and restorative massages will leave you spiritually lifted before returning to pleasure-seeking in the hotel’s extensive wine cellar. Rates start at €225 per room B&B, melia.com

EAT…At Simply Fosh. Walking into the restaurant is a visual treat in itself, almost like entering a contemporary art gallery. The food carries on the modern theme, with proprietor Marc Fosh’s signature cuisine showcasing a combination of fresh local ingredients and unique culinary ideas. He is the only British chef to have been awarded a Michelin star in Spain and having sampled his mango gazpacho I can see why. Reservations [email protected], simplyfosh.com

STROLL…Around La Lonja and the old city and get lost in the rabbit warren of cobbled streets. The architecture is quirky and the vibrancy of the city is infectious. The imposing cathedral is a gothic giant of epic proportions and is truly worth a visit. Nearby on the Passeig del Born are designer stores and traditional cafes for people watching. On Sundays live flamenco bands perform here allowing locals and keen visitors to show off their dancing skills. seemallorca.com

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If your interests are on more of a health and fitness bent, then you’re in good company. Calvia is a hotspot for cyclists – the swooping mountain passes seem to have a mini peloton at every turn – and many Olympic athletes have made it a winter training base. There are, of course, more traditional holiday activities on offer too, such as fishing, scuba diving, kite surfing and hiking.

Mallorca may still be home to plenty of cheap and cheerful package holidays but – as with the case of George Sands – not everything you see here is what it appears to be. Scratch the surface and the island reveals itself to be a cultural and social magnet for those seeking discerning aural, epicurean and visual pleasures.

- T R AV E L -


- T R AV E L -

High Holborn, LondonSituated between the West End and Clerkenwell, this area has always struggled to host any hotspots for the cool bar-hopping crowd. Sure, there are a couple of decent restaurants around there, but few places to enjoy a post-work sundowner. Pats on the back, then, to luxury hotel brand Rosewood which has just opened its first London hotel in the area. The clubby, colourful bar – at the heart of this beautiful 1914 Belle Epoque building – is a must-check.rosewoodhotels.com

T h R E E m o R E d E S T i n a T i o n S T h a T g o T T h E i R m o j o B a C k

Phuket, Thailand Look beyond the brash bars of Patong and head out a little to discover the tropical, tranquil paradise that is Sri Panwa, a collection of 52 luxury suites dotted around the coastline. Look out from your glass-boxed bedroom to the powder white sand of the private beach below, soak up the breath-stealing sunset views and congratulate yourself on finding arguably the area’s finest hotel. Lavish doesn’t even begin to describe it.sripanwa.com

South Beach, Miamiit seems hard to believe now, but miami was once a deeply unfashionable city, filled with ageing tourists in search of ‘early bird’ dinner specials. Today, particularly in the South Beach area, the story couldn’t be more different. Look no further than the art Basel miami show (5-8 december), which brings together the best in contemporary art. Stay at the mondrian hotel, which has a quirky Sleeping Beauty castle-style design. or check out the Shore Club, an art lover’s paradise, with works hung around its two pools. morganshotelgroup.com

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Words – Nicola Venning


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