tempus issue 22

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22 BEDAT & CO / Alternative Investments / Vertu / FERRARI 458 / Leonardo DiCaprio / Niche fragrances / THE SEIKO STORY / Watch snob / Wellbeing special / LAMBORGHINI VENENO ROADSTER / Superyachts

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Page 1: Tempus Issue 22

22

Bedat & Co / Alternative Investments / Vertu / Ferrari 458 / Leonardo DiCaprio / Niche fragrances /

the Seiko Story / Watch snob / Wellbeing special / LamBorghini Veneno roadSter / Superyachts

Page 2: Tempus Issue 22

PYRAMID BRACELET0.27 ct black diamonds, 18K rhodium plated white gold and onyx

Explore the Energy of Creation

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

www.shamballajewels.com

PYRAMID BRACELET0.27 ct black diamonds, 18K rhodium plated white gold and onyx

Explore the Energy of Creation

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

www.shamballajewels.com

PYRAMID BRACELET

Shamballa_Tempus_Dec2013.indd 2 2013-11-21 16.03

Page 3: Tempus Issue 22

PYRAMID BRACELET0.27 ct black diamonds, 18K rhodium plated white gold and onyx

Explore the Energy of Creation

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

www.shamballajewels.com

PYRAMID BRACELET0.27 ct black diamonds, 18K rhodium plated white gold and onyx

Explore the Energy of Creation

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

www.shamballajewels.com

PYRAMID BRACELET

Shamballa_Tempus_Dec2013.indd 2 2013-11-21 16.03

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000_Ad DPS.indd 2 29/05/2013 10:21

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EFTel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

000_Ad DPS.indd 3 29/05/2013 10:21

Page 6: Tempus Issue 22

Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back. Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

Frost Of London, 108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF, United Kingdom Tel.: 020 3372 0108 • www.frostoflondon.co.uk

GOLDEN_BRIDGE_2013_480x300_DPS.indd 1 29.08.13 07:52

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AUTOMATICBRIDGEGOLDEN

www.corum.ch

GOLDEN_BRIDGE_2013_480x300_DPS.indd 2 29.08.13 07:52

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E P I C S F 2 4Split Flap Display

45mm 18K Rose Gold Automatic Movement

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Page 11: Tempus Issue 22

Tempus is published monThly by AsTon GreenlAke publishinG lTd,

8Th floor, 6 miTre pAssAGe, london se10 0er. Tel: 020 3617 4688

EditorScott Manson

[email protected] 020 3617 4693Art DirectorJonny Hughes

[email protected] 020 3006 2122

Writer Hannah Silver

[email protected] development Manager

Mitchell Finlay [email protected]

Business Development Director

Mark Edwards [email protected]

020 3617 4688Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit [email protected]

Account ManagerAshley Collin

[email protected]

Managing DirectorJay Boisvert

issue

TwenTy Two

my word, we’ve had some fun this issue. besides the challenge of putting it together during the Christmas period – a time that saw the Tempus team throw themselves headlong into some of the best luxury gatherings that london had to offer – we’ve also covered several fascinating subjects for this edition.

There was the weekend spent behind the wheel of the ferrari 458, for example, which may have seen us slightly exceed the speed limit once or twice around Cornwall’s winding country roads. oh, and then we enjoyed a fascinating week in Japan, courtesy of seiko, learning more about the vast operation of this venerable watch brand. elsewhere, we experienced the hospitality of french superchef raymond blanc at his incredible le manoir aux Quat’saisons hotel and restaurant, finishing off 2013 in fine style with what was arguably our finest dining experience of the year. you can read our report on page 123.

We also get the lowdown on bedat & Co, a women’s jewellery watch brand that’s producing some of the most elegant timepieces on the market, and talk to movie star and watch fan leonardo diCaprio about his latest martin scorsese-directed role.

fittingly, given the Christmas excess, we’ve also got your healthy new year covered. Turn to page 92 for a host of wellbeing tips, great gadgets and travel ideas that will help put a spring back in your step. here’s to a fabulous 2014!

enjoy the issue.

From the editor

Scott MansonEditor

Contributors

Alex doakOne of Tempus’s most prolific writers, this month sees Alex jet off on a multi-stop tour of Seiko’s Japanese operations. You can read his report on page 80.

Justin Jay koullapisAs the co-founder of London’s Watch Club boutique and technical editor of the Horological Journal, Justin is well placed to reveal some of the issues that arise from watch damage, and how to fix them. Find out more on page 31.

katie puckrikKatie is a broadcaster, writer, and performer – and with the global success of her popular YouTube channel and blog, Katie Puckrik Smells, a sought-after fragrance expert. On TV she’s best known for co-hosting The Word and The Sunday Show, and is a presenter on BBC Radio 2 and 6 Music. On page 66 she lifts the lid on the ultra-niche perfume scene.

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prinTed by

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Frost of London2013nov_315.ai 1 10/16/2013 7:22:42 PM

Page 13: Tempus Issue 22

Special thanks:Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOfficeSimon Berkovitch

Inside issue twenty tw0

- 1 4 -Take Me There Celebrate Chinese

New Year by taking the road less travelled with a trip to Taiwan

- 1 7 -Luxury Briefing Because, it turns

out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

- 2 8 -Food and Drink Epicurean

enjoyment courtesy of a country pub and a cool member’s club

- 3 1 -The Word The Watch Club’s Justin Jay Koullapis on watch damage and

how to solve it

- 3 5 -The Watch Snob AskMen’s

columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums

- 3 6 -Auction Watch Our pick of the

best pieces going under the hammer

- 3 8 -Trendwatching The Frost of London director, Joseph Banin

reveals what’s hot right now

- 4 0 -Neon Invasion Some super-bright jewellery to light up a dull January

- 42 -Object of Desire Roberto Coin’s latest jewellery collection channels

high fashion’s ‘pois’ trend

- 4 5 -Style Advice: Bags Discover some

of Britain’s finest bag makers

- 4 9 -Role Model TAG Heuer

ambassador and award-winning actor Leonardo DiCaprio on his latest challenging, and Martin

Scorsese-directed, role

- 5 4 -Putting on the Glitz Why Bedat & Co watches are fast becoming a

worldwide hit with collectors

- 6 0 -Love at First Sight Jay Boisvert

gets up close and personal with Ferrari’s 458

- 6 6 -Eau de Luxe You have the car, the watch and the house. So why are you

still wearing a standard scent? We reveal the world’s finest fragrances

- 7 5 -The Art of Communication How Vertu has changed the face of high-

end communication

- 8 0 -Seikoville We take a cross-country tour of Seiko’s operation and unveil

its latest horological treats

- c o n t e n t s -

- 13 -

- 9 2 -Peak Performance If you’re

looking to get fitter and healthier in 2014, the new you starts here…

- 1 0 7 -What’s the Alternative? How

to improve your portfolio with some canny – and fascinating –

alternative investments

- 1 1 7 -Superyachts A beautiful yacht, born in Australia and saved from

the scrapheap, is now available for luxury charter

- 1 3 6 - Shock and Awe Lamborghini’s

insane Veneno Roadster

- 1 41 -The Brilliance of Blanc Why Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux

Quat’Saisons hotel is still setting the gold standard

- 1 2 6 -Wheels of Fortune Elegant

multi-purpose bikes that will prove perfect for that post-Christmas

health kick

- 1 3 1 -A Tale of Two Cities From a

private island in Venice to luxury living in Lisbon

- 1 3 8 -Moments in Time Seventies F1 champion Clay Regazzoni and his

TAG Heuer Silverstone

107

54

Page 14: Tempus Issue 22

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Take me there

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Unwind in the heart of Asia - ta i wa nCelebrate Chinese New Year with a trip to Taiwan, where the most important and colourful event of the year is marked with festivities that go on for up to four days. Not just a great location for a fabulous party, Taiwan has a lot to offer for those interested in a longer trip. Those looking for some relaxation should head to the hot springs of Beitou, the country’s oldest spa town, or enjoy the amazing views from Four Beasts Mountain Forest or from the scenic drives along Danshui’s waterfront.

Taiwan’s Chinese New Year is from 31 January to 3 Februaryeng.taiwan.net.tw

Page 16: Tempus Issue 22

Made by movement

Turbine Xl, A1050/1Technology of The Double roTor.

www.perreleT.com

108 new bond Street, london, w1S 1efTel: 020 3372 0108www.frostoflondon.co.uk

wAgner_240x300.indd 1 27/04/2012 10:33

Page 17: Tempus Issue 22

- l u x u ry b r i e f i n g -

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Le freak, c’est chicU lys s e N a r d i NUlysse Nardin’s Freak collection has only got better since its inception in 2001. The latest model, the Freak Cruiser, marks a return to the brand’s nautical roots. Unsurprisingly, it’s technologically splendid: in the absence of a dial and hands, the movement revolves on itself, with the lower bridge indicating the hours and upper bridge – which also supports the balance spring and silicon escapement – the minutes. A revolutionary escapement that has two silicon impulse wheels at its centre also contributes to the wow factor of this truly exceptional piece.ulysse-nardin.ch

Because the best things in life aren't free

Page 18: Tempus Issue 22

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Tusk lover o b e r t o C o i NFor luxury with a quirk, look no further then Roberto Coin, which has chosen the elephant – traditionally thought to bring good luck to whoever comes across it – as its latest inspiration. This white gold bracelet, dripping with colourless diamonds, black diamonds and jade, will make a playful gift.robertocoin.com

A great man, honouredM o N t e g r a p paMontegrappa has honoured everyone from Sylvester Stallone to Paulo Coelho with its luxurious range of pens, but its latest subject is arguably the most prestigious. It has reached an agreement with the Mandela family to produce a limited edition collection of 500 sets including pens, watches and cufflinks – 500 representing the number of medical clinics that were upgraded or constructed during Mandela’s presidency of South Africa. The pens feature rose gold decoration and a cap engraved with the map of South Africa and Mandela’s signature, completing this prestigious offering.montegrappa.com

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Silver screen dream machineg i r a r d - p e r r e g a U xThe Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland is a sophisticated piece that nods to the film industry and the watchmaker’s role as Exclusive Timekeeper of the new Academy Museum of Motion Pictures. Clad in gleaming gold and a black ceramic case, a smooth performance is assured thanks to a mechanical, self-winding GP03300 calibre.girard-perregaux.com

Page 20: Tempus Issue 22

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Stylish soundsp e a C h t r e e a U d i oPioneering US brand Peachtree Audio has unveiled its latest product, the good-looking nova125. This integrated amp, compatible with PCs, smartphones or other streaming devices, delivers world-class sound. A powerful digital amplifier, traditional valve buffer preamp and a wide choice of colours make it a stylish choice for the living room. Just add speakers and you’re good to go.peachtreeaudio.co.uk

To tie forM a r i N e l l aFor those in the know – including Prince Charles, who gets his ties from here – Marinella is a chic sanctuary in the heart of Mayfair. It has been producing beautifully crafted accessories since 1914, perfectly uniting the company’s Neapolitan heritage with British style for a wholly luxurious finish.marinellanapoli.it

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Page 21: Tempus Issue 22

ONE of 11

CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANSPARENCE

CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANsPARENCE® Three of the world’s most renowned master watchmakers have collaborated on a world-first

combination of complications, featuring a laser-etched sapphire dial, hand-beveled cut-out bridges, precious finish chronograph bridge, one-

minute tourbillon, mono-push chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, and

patented precise moon phase indication on roller in a fully integrated mechanical movement. Shown in 18K red gold and limited to 11 pieces.

Page 22: Tempus Issue 22

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Diamonds are foreverB u l g a r iBulgari’s new high jewellery collection, Diva, is exceptional for its spectacular combinations of gems of the rarest colours. The highlight has to be Forever Glamour, a necklace featuring a 43-carat diamond and dazzling sapphires which, thanks to Bulgari’s clever spring mechanisms, tremble delicately at the slightest breath of air. bulgari.com

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Stay goldJ a q u e t D r o zThe Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse brings the popular moon-phase complication together with the perpetual calendar for the first time. The result is as distinguished as we’ve come to expect from this brand, featuring an exquisite Grand Feu enamel dial with a delicate onyx index that moves across the face of a golden moon – only concealing it on the night of a total eclipse.jaquet-droz.com

Page 23: Tempus Issue 22

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - Ph. 020 3372 0108 - www.FrostofLondon.co.uk

QUATTRO VALVOLE 44 CHRONOGRAPHLUXURY

mec

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chev

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i.com

Page 24: Tempus Issue 22

MAGICALWATCH DIAL®

World PremiereA new way in watchmakingChange the dial of your watch by turning the bezelThe movement and the date appear thanks to a ingenious optical patented system.

R03.FB01.T5.A0001 Chronograph Flyback 18k pink gold.Also available with the exclusive Tourbillon Manège® movementDiscover our collections on:

www.revelation-watches.com

TWO WATCHES IN ONE

LONDON - PARIS - HONG KONG - OSAKA - DUBAI - MADRID - BERGAMO - HAMBURG - INTERLAKEN - LAUSANNE

Page 25: Tempus Issue 22

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Go westT h e G a i n s b o r o u G h b aT h s paSet to open in spring, The Gainsborough Bath Spa already has a dramatic history thanks to its setting atop the remains of a Roman settlement. Its Bath location means it’s the only UK hotel spa to provide direct access to natural thermal waters, the highlight of a spa that stretches over two floors. While the building retains its listed Georgian quirks, the interior is unapologetically modern, making for what will undoubtedly be an elegant retreat.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

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Limited editionT h e r e e l p o s T e r G a l l e ryOriginal vintage movie posters add a cool touch to a home or office – and this one from The Reel Poster Gallery is particularly special. Designed for The Man With The Golden Arm (1955) by Saul Bass, the godfather of graphic design, it was groundbreaking because it neglected to feature any of the film’s big name stars. In subsequent versions, Bass was forced to impose photographs of the stars over his original artwork, but this poster – one of only two – survives.reelposter.com

Page 26: Tempus Issue 22

byMG/FI

tempus-magazine_2013-09-23.indd 2 24/09/2013 11:22:03

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let’s do drunch

trends and news from the best bars and kitchens

The brainchild of Hussein Aziz, the entrepreneur who owns London’s celebrated Apres bar, Drunch is a fresh concept in healthy dining. It sits on a quiet Mayfair street and serves modern European dishes and seriously good home made juices. An outdoor shisha area and a wonderfully discreet private dining room in the basement make this a venue worth seeking out.drunch.co.uk

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When it comes to a London location, it doesn’t get much better than 1 Greek Street. This member’s restaurant and bar sits on the corner of Soho Square, perfectly placed for the film and media types who make up much of its clientele and within striking distance of the myriad pubs and bars of both Soho and Fitzrovia (or Noho, as almost no one calls it), for those looking to take their night out to the next level.

The venue itself is a smasher. A grade one listed building featuring some of the finest Rococo plasterwork in the capital, it’s been used as the base for a homeless charity – and as a woman’s refuge for a spell – since 1862. From the moment you enter the imposing front door, there’s a palpable sense of history about the place. A beautiful door hostess and some funky artwork aside, it’s easy to imagine yourself in Victorian times. Indeed, it’s said that some of the interior inspired Charles Dickens’s depiction of Dr Manette’s rooms in A Tale of Two Cities.

Although this is now a hot spot for hip media gunslingers, its primary function is still as a not-for-profit charity with proceeds from membership fees going towards supporting homeless people through a variety of courses and work opportunities.

Eating here is a relaxed and informal affair. So relaxed, in fact, that it took an age for us to finally receive our first drinks. Still, it gave us plenty of time to check out the menu, which

house of st barnabas Reviewed by Scott Manson

comprised an interesting mix of brasserie-style classics, plus a few more offbeat offerings. Of the tapas dishes, the harissa hummus caught our eye, but we were told they’d run out. Given the restaurant’s relative proximity to the Middle Eastern foodie heaven that is the Edgware Road, you’d think someone could have nipped earlier that day to stock up but, thankfully, there were plenty of other options worth investigating.

The classic Tuscan soup that is ribollita proved the perfect hearty winter warmer, its brothy vegetable base embracing the heart and soul of peasant cooking. A starter of chargrilled squid also hit the mark, with punchy ginger and chillies spiking its firm flesh. Looking around the room as we ate, with its great views across Soho Square, it was clear from the buzz of our fellow diners’ happy conversation that this is a venue getting things right.

The main courses were similarly strong. From the fennel-rubbed porchetta served with puy lentils and cavolo nero to a generous plate of pappardelle, spinach, walnuts and aged pecorino, they showcased the skills of a cook staying true to his ingredients, rather than indulging in show-off cheffery.

If you’re looking to join a member’s club that makes a difference, this Soho gem is the place for you.hosb.org.uk/

Page 28: Tempus Issue 22

A Scotch whisky tasting is a fabulously unconventional affair. For starters, you drink cask strength (50-60%) and there are no spittoons – only warning signs. The drink on offer tends to be very old and very rare indeed. For the connoisseur, it’s an unmissable treat. This year’s Diageo Special Releases feature a remarkable ten-strong range of limited releases that includes many whiskies whose distilleries are now closed – thus the spirits’ value and taste are increasing year on year, making them a wise investment for collectors.

spirited away

A trio of top tipplesBrora 1978, 35-year-old, 12th release Just 2,944 bottles of the Brora 35 year-old will be released from the brand’s closed distillery on the Sutherland coast. It’s a yellowy gold, light and softly coating dram that has a sweet palate mixing a hint of smoke, candied peel and sea air. At 49.9% a splash of Scottish spring water is essential. kosherwineuk.com, £1,300 a bottle

Studer Swiss Gold VodkaDistilled three times with the purest Alpine water, than laid on oak barrels, this beautifully smooth, pure vodka has flakes of real 22ct gold added making for a fabulous snowstorm effect. harrods.com, £65 a bottle

Courvoisier Erte Cognac No.5/ DegustationHighly sought-after by collectors, this is one of a series of limited edition Courvoisier bottlings, designed by the leading Art Deco artist Erté, who sadly died after the first edition was released. Some of the spirit dates back to 1892, the year of the artist’s birth. hedonism.co.uk, £785 a bottle

by Peter Dean

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having avoided the pub in its previous incarnation for years, had now returned to sing its praises. Cosy and atmospheric, it’s all low ceilings, inglenook fireplaces and beautifully distressed old wooden tables – a proper country boozer, in other words – but one serving dishes that raise it above standard gastropub status.

Accompanied by a couple of pints of local ale (my partner was on driving duties), I enjoyed a fabulous venison burger with bacon and cheese and home cut chips. A free range meat, taken from animals that have muscles that have been worked hard for years, venison can sometimes become tough and dry once cooked. Not so in this case, with the moist meat providing a fitting tribute to the noble beast it once was. Similarly, the poached cod, a plump and pearlescent hunk of fish served with local spinach, chorizo and prawn butter, proved to be the perfect match for my partner’s glass of traditional Robinsons Flagon cider.

Keeping on the home-grown theme, we opted for the cheese plate as dessert, enjoying a selection of British cheeses that included a great Sparkenhoe red Leicester and a perky Harbourne blue.

With its commitment to local suppliers, talented chefs and super friendly landlords, The Ebrington Arms is a worthy addition to the Cotswolds’ collection of fine country pubs.theebringtonarms.co.uk

ebrington arms Reviewed by Scott Manson

Far from the madding crowds of Stow-on-the-Wold, Broadway and Bourton-on-the-Water sits the picture-perfect Cotswold village of Ebrington. It’s a place seemingly undiscovered by the tourist hordes, most probably because its narrow lanes, lined by cute thatched cottages, are too slim a fit for a daytrippers’ coach.

Their loss is our gain because, with its honeystone houses, handsome church and – crucially – wonderfully authentic pubs, this is the quintessential English village. The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly The Ebrington Arms, winner of CAMRA North Cotswold Pub of the Year award three years running. This 400 year-old hostelry, which also offers five beautifully appointed bedrooms, is owned and run Jim and Claire Alexander, a couple who left high-flying music industry jobs in London a few years ago in search of the good life. Indeed, so successful has this career change been that they’ve also acquired another pub nearby, The Killingworth Castle, was has already been awarded a coveted TripAdvisor certificate of excellence.

On the strength of our visit to the Ebrington Arms, it’s easy to see why this place has quickly become known as both a hub of the local community and a destination for visiting foodies. A framed letter in the toilets is testament to the former, written and signed by locals who,

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Salon QP 7-9 November 2013The Fine Watch Exhibition1st Floor Stand F13Saatchi GalleryLondon

www.agresti.com

Safe “Design”

Agresti City Style.indd 1 22/10/2013 15:34:20

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Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003Two barrels, 100-hour power reserveTrue Beat Seconds, Breguet SpringSee-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistantAvailable in rose gold or stainless steel

TB88

EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND

greenwich

108 New Bond StreetLondon, W1S 1EF

www.frostoflondon.co.uk

000_Ad.indd 1 25/04/2012 13:57

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAMTel: (+84)4 23 234567

www.frostoflondon.co.uk108 New Bond Street, London,

W1S 1EF - UKTel: 020 3372 0108

ArnoldandSon.indd 1 02/09/2013 10:17

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As a luxury watch dealer and erstwhile watchmaker, my diplomatic skills are most stretched when handling the formidable customer gripe entitled ‘I haven’t done anything to damage this watch’, with the voluble subheading ‘...and yet it’s failed! Miserably!’

Sometimes, admittedly, the instrument’s miserable failure is actually my fault, but many times, the truth is the opposite and entitled: ‘Yes, the watch did fail – miserably – because you, owner, have smashed it!’

Take the textbook ‘dead stopper’, usually returned within my two-year warranty, of course. There are many things that might have killed it: a broken balance staff, a bent plate, sheared screw heads, smashed glass and crushed hands. These catastrophes don’t happen on their own. The thing was either dropped or was whacked against another thing. Nothing escapes the watchmaker’s beady eye, though, and there will always be evidence: a dent, scrape, or divot that gives the game away (although a smashed glass doesn’t require me to be all that observant). Sometimes there’s no bruising, but a long fall onto a plush carpet will still knock out the shock-settings and stop the watch. I will know that you did it.

Drops and knocks to the chrono-pushers or winding crown can lead to the ancillary problem of water ingress. The delayed result is that the watch either fogs up or becomes a portable deluge, aqua splashing from every possible aperture. The watchmaker in me would much rather have the latter: the drama of seeing all that water sloshing about is a real incentive to urgently deliver it back to base.

Justin Jay Koullapis is a director of London’s Watch Club and the technical editor of The Horological Journal

Fogging is insidious: it comes and goes with temperature, never inspiring the wearer to rush off and get it remedied, but the moisture never leaves. And if it’s settling on the glass, it’s also invisibly settling on all the steel within, slowly turning them the sort of rich brown that gets shotgun fanciers feeling weak – the kind of colour that makes watchmakers turn weak for entirely the opposite reasons.

But how did that fog or flood get inside in the first place? If it wasn’t from whacking the watch, then it’s often user error. A waterproof watch with a screw-down crown is only waterproof whilst the crown is tight. In any other state, it’s going to leak like crazy. A word to the wise: after setting the time, please make sure you fully tighten the crown. Think about how you’d close a bottle of fine wine and do it like that.

What if your watch fogs up and you’re on a beach nowhere in the vicinity of civilisation? Undo the crown, put it into hand-set, and let it rest – not bake – under an incandescent bulb and get it serviced as soon as possible.

If it’s flooded, just get it fixed immediately. I have saved watches drowned by salt water from being ‘bricked’ by advising, over a long-distance call, to have the watch quickly opened and literally washed inside with fresh water, and then dried under a lamp. Sometimes extreme, decisive action could save a rare dial or hands from the bin.

Of course, through all of this, when a customer is face to face with the beady-eyed watchmaker-dealer, the latter will always be most polite and diplomatic, no matter how badly the watch has been treated…

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A delicate balance Justin Jay Koullapis

Page 32: Tempus Issue 22

Showroom at No.1 Park Street, Maidenhead. To arrange a personal appointment, call +44 (0)1628 763040

Made in Switzerland / Self-winding, customised ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph with hour and minute bi-compax sub-dials / 42 hour power reserve / 42mm,

high-tech ceramic case with titanium sub-frame / AR08 coated, museum grade, sapphire crystal / Delta and canard wing shaped stop-second hand / RAF low-visibility

roundel at 6 o’clock counter / Deep-etched case-back engraving / Military style, high density webbing and leather strap with Bader deployment

454_ChristopherWard_Tempus_DPS.indd 2 12/12/2013 09:20

Page 33: Tempus Issue 22

Showroom at No.1 Park Street, Maidenhead. To arrange a personal appointment, call +44 (0)1628 763040

Made in Switzerland / Self-winding, customised ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph with hour and minute bi-compax sub-dials / 42 hour power reserve / 42mm,

high-tech ceramic case with titanium sub-frame / AR08 coated, museum grade, sapphire crystal / Delta and canard wing shaped stop-second hand / RAF low-visibility

roundel at 6 o’clock counter / Deep-etched case-back engraving / Military style, high density webbing and leather strap with Bader deployment

454_ChristopherWard_Tempus_DPS.indd 2 12/12/2013 09:20

Page 34: Tempus Issue 22

CONTEMPORARY SWISS WATCHMAKING

w w w . v a l b r a y . c h

R E V E A L Y O U R S E L F

O C U L U S V . 0 1 C H R O N OR e d G o l d

108 New Bond Street - LONDON

Transformable timepiece in limited edition Tel: 020 3372 0108

www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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V i n ta g e c o n u n d r u m Hello Watch Snob, I’ve been searching for my first decent watch and I was about to pull the trigger with a Zenith Pilot, but I also had the opportunity to buy a ‘new but old stock’ Zenith Chronomaster with El Primero 400. The price is reasonable, it works great and I really like this watch for everyday use. It is 40mm wide without crown, which may be small for today’s standards, but it fits quite nicely on my wrist. My question to you is if purchasing old stock watches is a good alternative for people on a budget – or I am going to pay later with premature servicing and hard-to-find parts replacement?

You have put your finger on the trade-off: vintage watches have antiquarian charm, but while you can save considerably over buying retail, there will be a cost associated with servicing and – depending on the watch – issues associated with finding parts. The good news in your case is that the El Primero is still being made, so parts are available. Not everyone is so lucky – some brands simply refuse to service anything older than a certain vintage (and compound the problem by not providing independent watchmakers with parts). I see that as an opportunity, though, as collecting vintage watches gives you the chance to find and form a relationship with a good watchmaker.

A g e c o n c e r n

Hey Watch Snob, Love reading your columns. Had a question. If one has the means to acquire a truly top-of-the-line piece at a fairly young age – and I do mean something along the lines of a Patek Philippe (which I gratefully say, you introduced me to) – how young is too young to do so? I want one and can afford one, but I am just shy of 25 and don’t want to wear something inappropriate for my age, if that’s possible. However, I’m also at that age where I want to make the jump from young adult to adult and buy a truly classy watch. I’ve never really invested in a good watch simply due to immaturity. And I don’t really go out to clubs and such anymore at all so this watch would not be in any drunken danger of that sort. Would appreciate your insight. Thanks.

I don’t think there’s any such thing as an arbitrary cut-off for when you’re old enough for a Patek and, even if there were, you’d be on the right side of it at 25. If you can afford it and you’ve evaluated the other options in the category you’re considering, why not? You may as well start getting a lifetime of satisfaction out of your watches now. You’re old enough to marry, drink, vote, work and serve your country in battle, so I think you’re entitled to a decent watch.

O n t h e d i a l Dear Snob, I have a question about dial colour for luxury watches. I can pretty much guess your answer to what you feel about watches with pink and orange dials, but I was wondering what your opinions are on white versus black. Are black dials just as acceptable as white ones?

Dial colour is purely a personal preference, but make sure your preference doesn’t venture beyond black or white. I’ve seen some reasonably nice blue dials from Patek, Vacheron and Audemars Piguet, but anything beyond that is getting a bit cartoonish. For a dress watch, I prefer a white dial. Black dials are a bit too dour and limiting when paired with an elegant suit or black tie. But regardless of dial colour, it should always be on a leather strap. I’m sure your guess about my thoughts on pink and orange dials are correct, so I won’t waste time commenting.

Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

The

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To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com

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UnderthehammerThe cream of the crop of the new year auctions: a stunning vintage Mercedes-Benz, a dazzling diamond bracelet and a genuine piece of motor racing history, all waiting for the highest bidder

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BonhamsThe Grand Palais auction, part of Rétromobile Week in Paris in February, is a sheer delight for classic car lovers. Sure to be popular is this stunning 1935 Mercedes-Benz 500K Cabriolet A, one of just 33, which has been off the market for over 40 years.

Estimated between £1.6m and £2m. The Grand Palais auction is on 6 February.bonhams.com

Silverstone AuctionsThis Eddie Stobart-liveried Mk2 Escort RS1800 Gp4 has an impressive history. It won the 2006 Roger Albert Clark Rally and also took top honours in the pre-’81 category of the 2007 British Historic Championships, as well as scooping first prize in the 2008 Colin McRae Memorial Rally.

Estimated between £65,000 and £85,000. The Race Retro sale is on 22 February.silverstoneauctions.com

Christie’sA beautifully classic piece, this diamond bracelet is set throughout with old, brilliant square and single cut diamonds. It’s just one of a host of highlights available at this venerable auction house’s next jewellery sale.

Estimated between £5,000 and £6,000. The Jewellery sale is on 29 January.christies.com

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Trendwatching

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c h a p t e r a n d v e r s eThe first Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three has been delivered to our store – and what a beautiful watch it is. Set on a sumptuous blue guilloche dial and created by some of the world’s finest watchmakers, there are also a couple of little secrets built in which every owner will delight in discovering.

b a c k o f t h e n e tWe’re delighted to be in talks to host an exclusive event in the boutique in February with avant-garde watch brand Cyrus. They’ve recently signed up Arsenal superstar Mesut Özil as a brand ambassador so we’re hoping he might make an appearance!

n e w n o u d a r2013 saw earcuffs really take off for us and I expect the trend to continue this year, with this Noudar diamond and sapphire piece being a brilliant example of the style. Nicole Scherzinger wore a Noudar ring from our boutique in December and the brand is going from strength to strength.

T i m e f o r t e aI’ve just discovered my new favourite place for a meeting, and had to share it. The Jumeriah Carlton Tower, just off Sloane Street, has signed up master patissier Eric Lanlard to create a great new afternoon tea, which I recommend you take in the hotel’s exclusive private Jasmine Room. It’s the perfect retreat to follow a visit to our boutique.

Frost of London director Joseph Banin reveals what’s on his radar this month

n o r t h e r n e x p o s u r eThe new Jacob & Co Brilliant Northern Lights Skeleton timepiece is a bold affair, with its contrast dial and silk straps making for a fabulous timepiece that’s sure to prove popular when it’s released in spring. The 44m case and crown is set with 284 diamonds and the dial is bang on trend with mineral crystals in blue, green, red and yellow. We’re looking forward to this model adding a pop of colour to Frost of London’s windows.

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London’s best watch and jeweLLery boutique recently held an exclusive event in partnership with italian watch brand Meccaniche Veloci. the party celebrated the appointment of its latest brand ambassador, the newcastle united footballer steven taylor, who was presented with a stunning quattro Valvole 48 Four strokes watch from the Luxury Gold collection, featuring a black titanium case with 18ct rose gold bezel, crowns and buttons. Further glamour came courtesy of supercar hire firm Premier Velocity, who showcased a selection of top-end motors on the night.

A .night atFrost ofLondon

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- fa s h i o n & a c c e s s o r i e s -frostoflondon.co.uk

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05Pippo PerezFabulous colourful gems adorn this American Indian Head Necklace. Shine in rubies, blue sapphires, yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, green garnet, white diamonds and 18ct gold. From £1,980

04BorgioniThe Moroccan Collection includes bracelets, rings and earrings with flashes of rainbow brights. The sumptuous ring opposite features 18ct black rhodium gold, pave brown and black diamond, pink and yellow sapphire, green garnet, rubellite and tanzanite. £10,092

Kick the January blues into touch by investing in one of these jewels in Frost of London’s crown

03Shamballa JewelsThe Shamballa Jewels bracelet is a must-have icon worn by international celebrities. We love this version in turquoise and white diamond pave with SOS beads in 18ct gold. From £14,440.

01Theo FennellLet the tiniest of birds make the biggest statement, courtesy of London-based jewellery designer Theo Fennell’s Hummingbird drop earrings in 18ct rose and white gold, blue topaz and pink tourmaline. £7,800

01

Neon invasion

02Jacob & CoAdd a little colour pizzazz to your whistle and flute with these stunning tsavorite and princess cut diamond cufflinks set in platinum. £11.289

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Roberto Coin

The release of a new collection from Italian jewellery designer Roberto Coin is always a red letter day at Tempus towers. This latest range sees the Venetian-born artisan channelling the spirit and fluidity of his amphibious home city of Venice. Forms and shapes meld in this, the Pois Moi collection, with an ultra-modern design juxtaposed with an Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape’, recalling the curvature of old monitors of the 1950s. The Pois Moi name takes its cue from the current catwalk trend of ‘pois’ – better known as polka dots to non-fashionistas. Featuring white pave diamond details and, of course, Roberto Coin’s signature hidden 0.3 carat ruby, this collection of rings and bangles is the perfect balance of sporty and soigné.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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Words - Hannah Silver- S t y l e A d v i c e -

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Dom ReillyOn the philosophy of a bag

Brilliant BagSOverlook your most faithful travelling companion at your peril. Our trio of experts are here to help

you select dependable, beautifully crafted luxury luggage that will last a lifetime

“We apply F1 philosophy to our design process. A racing car’s shape is defined by the rules, but the designers make a winning car by focusing on the detail. This ‘accumulation of marginal gains’ in every aspect of the design makes a better vehicle. The same principle is applied to our bags. Its shape is determined by its function – it needs to be a certain shape to carry a laptop, papers and passport case – however, the devil is in the detail.

• A central laptop sleeve provides optimum protection and gives the case more stability.

• Several leather pockets are perfectly shaped for a passport, phone and pens.

• An external zip pocket is ideal for documents that you might need easy access

to – such as your boarding pass and travel wallet when moving through an airport.

We use the finest quality leather but we also take great care with the other materials used.

For example, metallic components used on gearboxes are coated in Diamond- Like Carbon (DLC). Although only

three microns thick, it has diamond-like qualities that reduce friction and extend the life of the gear ratios.

We use the same principle on our zips. Each tooth is tumbled for 18 hours, polished for six

hours and then electroplated to create a super-smooth but hard-wearing zip. Briefcases are then perfectly finished by applying three layers of paint to the cut edges of leather.”

domreilly.com

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“Our bags are designed to be heirlooms of the future, something that can be passed

down to the next generation”

EttingerRobert Ettinger on the rules of making a great bag“Good bags aren’t high fashion – they must be timeless. In ten years time, [a bag] needs to still look right, even though what you’re carrying, the gadgets and so on, will have changed. Our metropolitan flap briefcase was copied from an antique and the basic shape hasn’t changed… although we’ve put on shoulder straps which didn’t exist 40 years ago to give more choice in how it’s worn. It’s not bling, but it’ll look good now and in years to come.

Bags must be enduring. We use the best leathers we can find and they must feel pleasing to the touch. We know the best tanneries and inspect the raw leathers so we can see they’re premium quality – we go through hundreds of hides of skins.

The practicalities of a product are important. For example, a bag must be easy to open, close and hold.

You need the right ingredients to begin with, so we have incredibly skilled people working on our pieces who really care about the product they’re crafting.

All our design and manufacturing is done in Britain and we hold the Royal Warrant to the Prince of Wales It’s nice to have that seal of approval.”

ettinger.co.uk

The Merchant FoxRetail manager Jo Neades on UK craftsmanship“A classic bag is something that is ageless, uses high quality material and is beautifully designed. Our bags are designed to be heirlooms of the future, something that can be passed down to the next generation. The range is entirely made in Britain – it’s important to us that we retain and utilise the great skills that are here in the UK.

For our leather bags we use the finest oak bark tanned leather, sourced from a tannery in Devon that dates back to Roman times. There, it can take up to two years to lime,

- S t y l e A d v i c e -

tan and dry the hides. When they are finished, the result is a luxury leather with a deep rich brown colour that is then worked into timeless designs, satchels and holdalls for our collection, meaning these bags will really last.

In addition to the leather bags in our range, we also use classic cloths in the Flannel collection, which can have a more practical use, thanks to the cotton backing the flannel, waterproofed for protection. Fox Flannel is renowned worldwide for its quality and soft handle. Handcrafted in workshops in the Lake District – similar to the way a bespoke suit is created – a pattern for each bag design is cut by hand and then assembled using traditional methods and saddlery skills honed over many decades. For a casual look I would suggest the Dart Messenger bag and for the more formal the Racing Green attaché case. We collaborate with Globe-Trotter, who make these beautiful cases in their Hertfordshire factory, lining them with Fox Brothers’ finest flannel. The Racing Green range is lined with a classic slate grey herringbone. Comfort and style are the key qualities for us.”

themerchantfox.co.uk

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P O I S M OI C OL L E C T I ON

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- g o o d t i m e s -Words – Frank Grice

LeonardoDiCaprio

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role model

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For someone who claims to crave time away from the film industry, leonardo diCaprio – one of TAG Heuer’s brand ambassadors – is one of Hollywood’s hottest properties. And his run of excellent script choices continues as, after numerous delays, The Wolf of Wall Street – a true life biopic of former markets trader Jordan Belfort – finally hits UK cinemas this month

- g o o d t i m e s -

other. To me though, this film is less about the world of finance and Wall Street and it’s more about the underworld.  Q: You’re now at a point in your career where you’re talking about taking a break. You must feel you deserve one.Well I’ve definitely worked hard and I’ve definitely been lucky along the way, too... lucky in terms of the scripts I have chosen, and lucky because I

  Q: obviously the money theme in the movie is prevalent. What did you do with your first big pay cheque?I bought my mum a place to live!

Q: Does wealth excite you?No. Security and creativity were always what I strove for, and once I achieved security it was just creativity. But greed is everywhere and it always has been. It’s an inherent human survival characteristic. We shouldn’t even be embarrassed about it, but we should recognise when it ruins others’ lives, or even our own.

Q: How would you describe this movie in your own words?I would describe it as a dark comedy. It definitely has comedic elements, but when martin Scorsese directs a movie, it’s not one thing or the

have had the privilege of watching some really great people in action. When I got to watch de Niro and people like daniel day lewis and meryl Streep or Christopher Walken, it was incredible. It’s the example of seeing how they approach things and their courage and their ability to do an immense amount of study and preparation – and then throw it all away for a fleeting moment that they want to grasp onto. Also, working with

Q: The Wolf of Wall Street is the story of Jordan Belfort, a former trader who became embroiled in the pressures and evils of the financial world. It must have been a great role to get your teeth into…It was – a real peek into a different world; one I had never experienced. I came out with an altered view on things. There are guys there just rolling the dice hoping to get lucky, but most are playing it straight, just trying to earn their money like the rest of us.

Q: What are your thoughts on greed having really got into the mind of Belfort?Greed is incredibly prevalent and just as rampant as it always was. I met Jordan and he was really smart and engaging – he’s a nice guy. He just got dragged deeper and deeper into that world.

marty Scorsese too has been so vital for me. It’s been my acting class, definitely. It still is.

Q: Is Marty a father figure for you?I have a tremendous amount of respect for him but you can’t let age get in the way of voicing your opinion. And when you are talking about the greatest collaborations, you would be a fool not to mention Scorsese and de Niro. I grew up with those movies; I saw those films. I don’t

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role model

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ever try to emulate or recreate what they did together, because to me that’s the greatest cinematic relationship in history. I am a fan. So, my attempt is to go in there and to do something interesting in my own right, and since we started working together, it’s been a pretty damned easy process because we actually found that we have similar tastes with what we want to do.

Q: of all the characters you have played, who do you think would be your best friend?Whew, that’s a good question. I am trying to think of the movies I have done now. Probably Tobias Wolff from This Boy’s life, I really liked that kid. Arthur Rimbaud [Total eclipse] maybe, I don’t know. don’t get me wrong, I like Jordan Belfort – but I like the man he became, not the man he was.

Well, we came together to design limited editions of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500m – again, something I was so proud of. That kick-started other green initiatives and really moved forward the philanthropic standing of TAG. It has been hard work at times, but it goes to show that any corporation in any industry can reassess, refine and make an impact. It just has to want to do that.

Q: In what areas did TAG achieve that?everything from improving inefficient lighting systems to reducing wastage on steel. That’s why it has been such an exciting project, because it was always about more than designing a watch.

Q: But the watch is a standout part in the process?Absolutely. I love the contrast the steel offers, both to the rubber of the strap and the brilliant blue colouring. It’s a wristwatch than can be versatile depending on what you’re wearing... dressed up or down.

Q: You’ve worn a number of different wristwatches over the years in films – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre, a Breitling Avenger Chrono and many more besides. Do you have a favourite?my favourite is always the one I have on!

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Fact File• Born in 1974, Leo

DiCaprio has been a box office heavyweight for almost two decades now, achieving international fame in 1997’s Titanic.

• The three-time Oscar nominee’s love life appears at times to be of as much media interest to his acting career. He has been in relationships with a string of top models, the most recent being German Toni Garrn.

• DiCaprio lives between his home in Los Angeles and an apartment in Lower Manhattan and also owns an island off mainland Belize on which he is planning to create an eco-friendly resort.

• Away from the red carpet, he has numerous philanthropic projects. These include contributions of time and financial pledges to organisations as diverse as Wildlife Conservation Society, SOS Children’s Village and the Animal Legal Defence Fund.

• • He drives an electric Tesla Roadster, a Fisker Karma plug-in hybrid and a Toyota Prius.

be that little bit more polished, so it was a nice link to make! What was equally important though was the social conscience that the partnership was going to create, namely the royalties that we have managed to put towards the National Resources defense Council and Green Cross International.

Q: So, how does that work?

Q: Tell us about your relationship with TAG HeuerComing together with TAG Heuer was important for me on a couple of levels. It was a brand I really believed in, and one that, in my mind, has always been synonymous with precision, quality and attention to detail. I wouldn’t say I was a perfectionist in every aspect of my life, but I think we all strive to

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- b e d at & c o -Words – Scott Manson

Glitz the feminine touch of its visionary founder still guides luxury timepiece brand Bedat & Co as it continues its

ever-stylish journey into the 21st century

P u t t i n g o n t h e

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n the heritage-obsessed world of watches, a brand founded in 1997 could well get short shrift from collectors. Not so for Bedat & Co, though – a company specialising in women’s watches that, despite its

youthful appearance, has a deceptively rich heritage.

In truth, its story starts in 1975 when Simone Bédat (pictured right), a self-made woman who rose to the top of the male-dominated Swiss luxury timepiece industry, helped Raymond Weil create Raymond Weil S.A. By the end of the 1980s, the firm had grown to become the fifth-biggest export brand, with sales of some 600,000 units a year, worth around £50m.

In 1994, Simone sold her 24% stake in the company back to Raymond Weil and – a year later – she and her son Christian Bédat, who also worked at the company, left to set up Bedat & Co.

The fledgling firm’s inaugural offering was unveiled at the 1997 Baselworld watch fair. The first pieces, named No 7 and No 3 – which continue to be the best-selling models to this day – were immediate hits, impressing buyers with their harmonious curves, perfect proportions

and classic elegance.The brand’s success continued

and, in 2006, it was acquired by the Gucci group. This wasn’t Bedat & Co’s finest moment, however, says Simon Crane, the brand’s managing director for Europe and the Middle East.

“We were a new acquisition, which meant we were quite low on the pecking order,” he explains.

“The brand suffered as a result.”It was something of a blessing, then, when

the group was sold to new owners in 2009, allowing them to continue to manufacture the A.O.S.C.-certified, wholly Swiss-made luxury watches for their ever-growing band of acolytes.

IA DESIGN FOR LIFE: Bedat & Co watches – such as the No 3 (above left) – are inspired by Art Deco design; another classic timepiece takes shape (above)

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GLOBETROTTER: Each Bedat & Co collection has a number (No 3 pictured) – a touch that breaks down the language barrier and lends the watch brand global appeal

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“Everything we do stays true to Madame Bédat’s original vision,” says Crane. “She realised how this male dominated industry appeared to only pay lip service when it came to 51% of the world’s population, women. Therefore, despite her no longer being with us, we continue her legacy of only producing women’s watches that still bear her name and celebrate her love of the Art Deco period.”

Numbers were chosen to represent individual case shapes and styles because, believed Madame Bédat, the tidy, ordered minds and logical thought process of women are comfortable with this refined and orderly approach and consistent format.    

From the sophisticated square face of the No 1 to the contemporary styling of the No 2, the beautiful No 8 and the flagship model that it is the showstopping Extravaganza, these are wonderfully finished pieces, studded with high grade diamonds, that are conceived, developed and handcrafted to suit the female

form. Unusually, each watch is also sold with a five year warranty.

“There is no need to sell bespoke versions or add complications. The formula is simple – beauty, form [and] shape, manufactured to the most exacting

specifications,” says Crane. “My favourite piece is the Extravaganza. The attention to detail and perfect proportions make it the finest example of our technical and design abilities to date.”

The pieces have proved popular with several notable types, too. These include the

singer Katherine Jenkins and model Kimora Lee Simmons. “We

are [also] strong in the Asian market, where they appreciate the timeless quality of our pieces,” says Crane.

The plans for next year’s Baselworld models are being kept under wraps, but

Crane reveals that the introduction of new dial techniques will spark a great deal of interest.

He smiles. “Madame Bédat would be proud of what our designers are doing right now.”

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“The formula is simple – beauty, form and shape, manufactured to the most exacting specif ications”

MAKING MINOR ADJUSTMENTS: Although it enjoys contemporary styling, the No 2 ladies watch still holds true to Madame Bédat’s original vision

In brief:Simon CraneWhat can’t you live without?My family and friends. Since I hit 50, I find I crave human affection far more!

Do you have a dream watch that you would love to own?Tricky, but probably something traditional from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If you were put in charge of the watch industry for the day, what rules would you impose? I would address the issue of unnecessarily high costs when it comes to manufacturing in Switzerland and making them more transparent.

If you could edit a part of your past, what would you change and why?Working with brands that are so highly coveted by consumers and that give such obvious pleasure to their owners is a truly humbling and fulfilling experience, so I guess I wish I had come to it sooner!

Having achieved so much already, what’s next for your brand? Continuing to spread the word. We have so many loyal customers – some of them even travel to Geneva to see where their watches are made. I love the emotional connection that people make with our timepieces.

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best of britishPeter Wilson Mbe, olympic Gold Medallist London 2012,

with a holland & holland ‘sporting’ over-and-Under shotgun. A gun made entirely in our London factory.

shop online now atwww.hollandandholland.com

Untitled-6 1 8/19/2013 5:20:30 PM

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- f e r r a r i -Words – Jay Boisvert

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In this case, seeing red is more likely to get your heart racing than your stress levels soaring. We fulfil a printable schoolboy

fantasy and take the Ferrari 458 – the Marilyn Monroe of motors – out for a casual spin to beautiful Cornwall…

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’m smitten. Like a schoolboy with his first crush. The object my affections? The Ferrari 458, arguably the best looking supercar on the market today. To explain, I asked Ferrari really nicely and

they let me take me one out for the weekend. Without a chaperone, no less.

Being a jaded media type, there are few things that get me really excited these days. The prospect of a brilliant beach holiday, perhaps, or a day at the Wimbledon finals, but nothing compares with the feeling of being en route to collect the Marilyn Monroe of motors. Not even a giant tailback on the M25 could dampen my spirits on a sunny Friday morning.

As I pull up at Ferrari with a childish grin on my face I see her – a bright red 458 Spider, with more extras than a director’s cut DVD, gleaming in the sun. Every inch of this insanely brilliant motor screams: ‘Drive me. Hard’.

After going through the formalities and agreeing that I wouldn’t hurt the car in any

way – and if I did I’d be paying Ferrari back until I was in a retirement home –– it was time for a four hour drive to Cornwall. Just me, some booming tunes and mile after mile of tarmac to get to know my new favourite friend.

I’ve been fortunate enough to have driven some pretty special cars in my time but nothing has turned heads like the 458. It makes you wonder how Italy, with its alarmingly lax government and Gordian knot-esque bureaucracy, has managed to produce one of the world’s best car marques. Just imagine what the nation could do if they really got their act together – they’d probably have their own space programme by now.

In fairness, I’ve been a Ferrari fan for decades but I can say, with only a hint of bias, that this is the most elegant car on the road. When I was younger, it was all about the 355, and then the 360. When the 430 came out I didn’t think Ferrari could top it but, with the 458, they’ve blown my preconceptions out of the water. Unlike, say, the California or the FF, the 458 feels like a true modern classic.

Of course, I understand the brand needs to provide something for every supercar enthusiast, but for me a Ferrari should feel like a white-knuckle racing car. While the California and the FF are both extremely quick, the 458 feels like you are more involved in the drive, more hands on, with the roar of the 562bhp mid engined V8 kicking out of the exhaust as you climb from 0-60mph in 3.3 seconds. It is, in the words of Sir Alex Ferguson, squeaky bum time.

After a fairly hairy drive down some tight country lanes I finally arrive at the St Moritz, a beautiful hotel on a picturesque stretch of the Cornish coast. The apartment – not just a room, mind – was out of this world. Cosy yet modern, it offered every amenity you could hope for, including a full kitchen, lounge/diner, huge double bedroom and a gorgeous bathroom. I toyed with the idea of knocking up a plate of pasta in honour of the Italian stallion slowly cooling off outside but instead headed down to the hotel’s restaurant. Here chef Jamie Porter –

RED DEVIL: While the California and the FF are both extremely quick, the 458 (below left) makes you feel that you are more involved in the drive

I

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DESTINATION – ST MORITZ: The Cornish hotel boasts spacious accommodation, great views and fine dining – a fitting place to bring the fab 458

“Here’s a piece of advice: If you are prone to hangovers and have a spare quarter of a million lying around, the Ferrari 458 is a

very effective way of blitzing that headache”

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who has worked alongside the likes of Michel Roux senior and Rick Stein – served up some supremely fresh fish, locally sourced meat and vegetables, all accompanied with fine, crisp white wine. Lots of white wine.

Here’s a piece of advice. If you are prone to hangovers and have a spare £250,000 lying around then the 458 is a very effective way of blitzing that headache. Simply start the engine, flip the roof down, select first on the seven speed dual-clutch and, wallop, you are back in the game and loving life once again.

The time came – too soon – to take the car back to its rightful owner and as much as I didn’t want to wave goodbye to this little beauty, it was always going to be a short-lived affair. My pension pot could never cover a potential prang in this car – from another driver, you understand – and, crucially, the sweet sorrow of parting has left me gagging for another go behind the wheel of the next incarnation from the home of the dancing horse. ferrari.com, stmoritzhotel.co.uk

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ITALIAN STALLION: This supercar is only for the super-well-heeled – unfortunately for our smitten writer

“My pension pot could never cover a potential

prang in this car – from another driver,

you understand”

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Page 66: Tempus Issue 22

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e a u d e l u x eThe smell of money needn’t be vulgar. Step away from those

identikit mall scents and bathe in the glory of niche perfumery

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Words – Katie Puckrik

ince the beginning of recorded history, personal fragrance was a privilege allowed only to gods and kings. Beautiful smells were considered the hot line to the heavens, so ancient royalty and

aristocrats hastened their agendas by burning frankincense and myrrh. Gods lived in the clouds, it was reasoned, so getting one on your side was simply a case of tickling his holy nose with expensive scents as they drifted skyward.

It wasn’t long before said royalty and aristocrats helped themselves to the good stuff. Attars – perfume oils fashioned from rich resins such as frankincense, myrrh, rockrose and oud – were made even more luxurious and complex with the addition of jasmine, rose, and herbs. The elite underscored their difference from the great unwashed by leaving an invisible trail of perfumed glory everywhere they went.

And if the great unwashed weren’t exactly overjoyed with their unwashed condition, they didn’t have much say in the matter: the

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exorbitant cost of perfume’s raw materials hammered home the them-and-us situation. If you were important enough to command armies and caravans to haul rare elixirs across hostile deserts and impassable mountains, you were sorted. Everyone else had to freshen up by flapping their overripe robes over a smudge of burning sage.

But now that fragrance is a commodity which has trickled down to the hoi polloi, (with every D-list reality star hawking a signature scent), is there any way left for the connoisseur to distinguish himself, olfactorily speaking? The answer is ‘yes’ – in the rarified playing fields of niche perfumery.

In the ’fume world, the term ‘niche’ broadly refers to fragrances not produced by mainstream, multinational beauty corporations, aka ‘mall perfume’. Niche scents are typically produced in limited runs by boutique companies targeting discerning customers looking for quality, exclusivity – and a rhapsodically special scent.

Indie lines further distinguish themselves through their brand’s DNA. For example, Serge Lutens offers Moroccan exotica filtered through French glamour with scents conjuring shisha smoke, orange blossoms and leather. By Kilian from Kilian Hennessy (heir to a long line of French cognac makers), focuses naturally enough on moreishly boozy notes, combined with dense renderings of rare woods. Comme des Garçons, meanwhile, challenges the idea of conventional beauty with their surprisingly appealing avant-garde offerings resembling cellophane sticky tape or the afterglow of a photocopier.

Part of the appeal of fine fragrances is the sense of luxury they bestow on the wearer. But even with niche, it’s easy to get seduced by

flashy packaging and an overheated backstory, only to be disappointed by the scent’s lacklustre performance and ordinary smell beneath the hype. Here’s where it helps to follow your nose, because it’s the quality of the ingredients – not the bling on the bottle – which separates the ah! from the blah.

There are three niche houses in particular which specialise in giving their perfumers unlimited budgets, using money-is-no-object raw materials: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Amouage and Le Labo.

Frédéric Malle refers to himself as an “Editeur de Parfums”, guiding and shaping his perfumers’ works the way an book editor would

Part of the appeal of f ine fragrances is the sense of luxury they

bestow on the wearer

NOTES FROM THE UNDERGROUND: scent guru Frédéric Malle (above); Oman’s niche house Amouage (below)

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his authors’. Rock star perfumers clamour to contribute to Malle’s oeuvre for the chance to release themselves from the shackles of corporate perfumery, with its marketing tests and budgetary constraints. When you consider that the raw materials budget for the average celebrity scent is the same as the fragrance for a toilet cleaner, it’s no wonder master perfumers like Dominique Ropion and Pierre Bourdon rejoice at the opportunity to create with unlimited quantities of Rosa Centifolia (upwards of $15,000 per kilo) and Iris Absolute ($100,000 per kilo).

Not to mention Tuberose Absolute (upwards of $30,000 per kilo), with its intoxicating, heady rush. Carnal Flower (the only feminine fragrance here, but don’t let a gender label stop you wearing what you love), authored by Ropion for Frédéric Malle, contains the largest amount of tuberose of

any perfume in the world. Malle is tickled by reports of Hollywood starlets presenting their beloved bottles of Carnal Flower at brand meetings for their drugstore signature scents. Hopes for a cheap and cheerful rip-off are dashed when informed that Carnal Flower’s voluptuous luxury makes it virtually uncopyable.

Amouage, a niche house hailing from the Sultanate of Oman, specializes in showcasing Oman’s finest bounty: silver frankincense, myrrh and rock rose. The pedigree of these precious resins stretches well back into ancient times: when the Three Wise Men needed an unsurpassable gift to honour the infant Jesus, they chose to augment their gold with gods-and-kings-quality frankincense and myrrh.

The frankincense tree may look a tad unprepossessing, but its ‘tears’ of sap are just as valued now as in ye olde biblical times. The harvesting technique is unchanged since then as well, with the essence carefully

HEAVEN SCENT Frankincense tree in Omar (left); Le Labo’s founders (right); perfumer Dominique Ropion (below)

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Rock star perfumers clamour to contribute to Malle’s oeuvre

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Three fabulous fragrances of note

Vetiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frédéric MalleElegant Vetiver Extraordinaire contains the largest amount of vetiver of any fragrance on the market – at 25%, three times more than an ordinary vetiver composition. This is achieved through an exacting process of molecular distillation which strips the bitter edge particular to the Haitian grass, adding an incredible smoothness to its rooty, smoky allure. A zing of lemon supplies a fresh crispness to Vetiver Extraordinaire’s earthiness.fredericmalle.com

Jubilation XXV by AmouageThe ingredients of Jubilation XXV (pictured) read like an Old Testament shopping list for a king’s feast: frankincense, myrrh, oud wood, rose, honey, clove, blackberry, cedarwood, ambergris, musk, rock rose, cinnamon and patchouli – and that’s just for starters. On the skin, it’s a shimmering progression of boozy fruit followed by spicy florals, then warm woods and resins. Incredibly, it’s never too much, just kaleidoscopically sumptuous.amouage.com

Rose 31 by Le LaboDespite containing an exceptional quantity of Rose Centifolia from Grasse (the most expensive rose essential oil available), spicy and sensual Rose 31 masks the lushness of its flower power with the hot physicality of musk and other notes. Says Le Labo co-founder Eddie Roschi: “We wanted to take a quintessential feminine ingredient (although rose oil was very masculine back in the royal era) and disguise it to make it wearable by all. Rose 31’s addictive signature was a result of this original objective – and really unexpected.”lelabofragrances.com

handpicked by a select caste of tribal herders. These heritage materials supply the mystique in Amouage’s offerings, which are deep, dark, and unabashedly opulent.

Le Labo’s stated mission is “to create exceptional fragrances, with no eye on costs and one goal – to create a sensory shock as soon as you open the bottle”.

This “shock” is supplied by a hit of the highest grade materials used in ways that showcase their uniqueness – much in the way locavore chefs highlight indigenous flora and fauna in their artisanal cooking.

Le Labo’s aesthetic is derived from wabi-sabi – the perfection of imperfect beauty, the elegance of patina and the integrity of natural flaws. In its aim to produce scents that engage the imagination, the line also features City Exclusives, sold only in the brand’s key

boutiques (including Paris, Moscow, Tokyo, and Los Angeles). Fragrances such as Poivre 23 (London) and Musc 25 (Los Angeles) are scent poems, summing up the spice and

sensuality of each namesake city.Le Labo co-founder Eddie

Roschi describes their customer as “the same person who is looking for an authentic boutique hotel experience, who would buy his or her wine from a wine cellar, and who would listen to his or her own sense of judgment to make the ultimate decision of what is good or bad”.

It takes confidence to trust one’s taste and embrace the

rarified. But wearing niche fragrances is a stealth form of self-expression – and a surefire way to ensure you’re surrounded by beauty wherever you go, leaving the hoi polloi behind in your sweet-smelling dust…

LABO OF LOVE: On the shelves at Le Labo’s Parisian outpost (above); Rose 31, one of its most popular scents (below)

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Page 74: Tempus Issue 22

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Page 75: Tempus Issue 22

Words – Hannah Silver- v e r t u -

c o m m u n i c at i o nUnchained from the shackles of a large corporation, the creative possibilities are now endless for Vertu, the smart cookie behind

the original super-phone

The art of

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In the luxury market, timing is everything. And as the love affair with smartphones begins to wane, the spotlight is back on Vertu – the original super-phone.

launched in 2002, it may be a relatively young company, but it has already amassed a legion of fans. Vertu’s creativity has been further unlocked following a change in ownership last year from nokia to investment firm eQt.

Ignacio Germade, creative director, sees the transition as a creative challenge. “to go from being owned by a huge corporation to being able to do exactly what we wanted to do was really freeing. Our products now define the whole brand and right now we’re trying to transform it, making it more contemporary and relevant for our customers.”

By refusing to compromise on luxury materials and going back to what made the brand so successful in the first place, it’s safe to say Vertu has achieved this. Its two new releases – the Constellation and the tI – are unashamedly indulgent, with the highest level of craftsmanship and material quality throughout.

The Vertu tI, the first release following eQt’s purchase of the company, caters to the traditional customer and remains faithful to the heritage of the brand. It’s technically impressive, boasting a virtually scratchproof sapphire crystal screen measuring 3.7 inches, the largest ever engineered. A strong titanium case and butter-soft leather make this a phone that loyal Vertu fans will recognise and appreciate.

The Constellation, meanwhile, takes these familiar features and intensifies them. The sapphire crystal is now 5.1 inches, weighs more

than 100 carats and covers the entire front of the phone, the grade 5 titanium casing is effectively indestructible – in the world of phones, at least – and the calf leather comes from the finest hides in the Alps.

It was a conscious decision to distinguish between the two new products, Germade explains. “With the Constellation, we made it more contemporary to address a different segment of the market. the tI is more masculine, so we wanted the Constellation to be attractive to female customers, too…with the choice of leather colours – something that’s more commonly associated with a luxury fashion brand. There’s a balance between the two products – heritage versus contemporary – but both are true to the core of Vertu and have the combination of amazing materials and craftsmanship.”

For Germade, the time was right for something new. “Our customers are changing and so are we. We have to adapt now there’s this new world of smartphones. Saying that, the iPhones and others are a completely different industry: they’re not our competitors. Our customers are making a decision to purchase a luxury item… in a way, our competitors are more the likes of Patek Philippe than the mobile phone industry.”

The build quality and technological complexity is certainly the same. each phone is handmade in a state-of-the-art facility in hampshire, england, and on completion is signed by the craftsman that created it. Indeed, the most loyal customers even ask for specific engineers by name when they are ordering their new phone. It can take around 18 months from conception

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“To go from being owned by a corporation

to being able to do what we wanted was

really freeing”

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to the end product, with material scientists, engineers and designers all involved in creating a new piece. There are also a baffling number of factors to consider.

“Designing for this type of device is one of the hardest things I’ve done. For instance, the metal and the antenna are two things that don’t work together without causing interference, then you add in ergonomics, software, the design and the fact we’re using materials no-one else is using and it becomes extremely complex.”

like a watch, Germade is also aware there’s an emotional relationship customers will have with their phones, not least with the concierge function which allows users to access a 24 hour hotline to a Vertu team that can secure them anything from ‘unbookable’ restaurant reservations to a last-minute private jet to Paris. “It’s so personal. Customers will spend up to 20 hours a day on them, so you also have to juggle this emotional side with the rational.” It’s a formula that’s clearly working. Sales figures have been on the rise

for the last three years, and the company has a great worldwide presence, currently operating from 66 countries.

After last year’s sale, Vertu now has a 90% share in the company, with nokia retaining the remainder. The fact the company is not competing against other mobile phone manufacturers also has its advantages. “The nice thing is you don’t have to cater to 100 million people,” Germade explains. “you’d be bound to be limited – if you’re middle of road you have to make a product that appeals to so many people and you end up with something no one hates or loves. We just have to really understand a small group, connect with them and create something they love.”

Germade won’t divulge what’s coming next, although it’s a safe bet that it’ll stretch the realms of possibility and be like nothing else already out there.

As he points out, if you don’t accept ordinary products when it comes to your car and watch, why should you settle for anything less than extraordinary when it comes to your phone?

“The most loyal customers even ask for specif ic engineers by name when they

are ordering their new phone”

In brief: Ignacio Germade What’s your ideal day off?Firstly, I’d spend time with my kids. After that I’d probably spend it designing – it’s my passion and my hobby and I always end up going back to it.

How would you like to be remembered?Do I even want to be remembered?

Do you wear a watch?No. I don’t wear watches or jewellery, anything at all, because my watch is my phone. I have the most beautiful watch, if you think about it.

Which is your favourite handset?My favourite phone is always the next one. Saying that, I’m still passionate about the Constellation and use an orange one.

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SEIK VILLE

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Words - Alex Doak

The horological pioneer may have celebrated its 100th year in 2013, but Seiko’s eye is on a glorious future in the global marketplace,

thanks to“the best practical watch in the world”

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Domestically, over half of seiko’s turnover is thanks to watches over $1,000, but outside of Japan the watchmaking giant is still best-known for its lower priced collections – a situation that’s rapidly changing, thanks to the efforts of two ateliers that put the swiss to shame. all aboard the bullet train for the seiko experience.

speeding from Narita international along the Higashi-Kanto expressway, an early hint of the towering metropolis awaiting us rears into view just 15 minutes into our ride to tokyo: a gleaming white tower block that momentarily looms over the cab, its crest emblazoned with that unmistakable squashed-serif logo: seiKo.

as the spiked horizon gradually rears into view, another multi-storey complex flashes by, once again bearing the seiKo badge, this time sprawling outwards, a city in itself. The seiko Watch corporation is clearly, as the song goes, ‘big in Japan’.

But once we’re checked into the 26th-floor reception of the conrad, its widescreen views of the shiodome financial district already inspiring Lost in Translation feelings of alienation, our tour-guide, yoshi, produces a map of Japan and points out which

SEIK VILLE

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seiko outposts we’ll be visiting over the next five days. The two huge seiko buildings we’ve already witnessed don’t even come into it. Nor do the 400-strong headquarters downtown.

seiko, it seems, is much bigger in Japan than we could ever imagine.

as it transpires, we’re here to see where seiko actually make their watches – and they’re not the sorts to make them anywhere near a motorway, nor a hectic city centre. Not even their basic quartz models. instead, we’re headed to their brace of manufacturing plants in the high-class skiing resort of morioka (seiko instruments inc.) and shiojiri (seiko epson) on the other side of Japan’s beautiful mountains. Both, rather fittingly, are nestled in verdant, fir-lined landscapes, onto which the first snowflakes of winter are already beginning to fall. squint your eyes and you could easily be deep in the heart of the swiss Jura.

to get there, what else but the shinkansu, or ‘New trunk line’? The Bullet train to the rest of us, it feels doubly appropriate as, despite its space age rolling stock and 200mph average speed, the first rails were laid as far back as 1964 for the tokyo olympics – the

same event for which seiko, as official timekeeper, successfully reduced the size of a quartz timekeeper from cupboard proportions to a handheld box. Five years later, they’d shrunk the technology some more, and launched the world’s first quartz wristwatch, the ‘astron’.

at this point, a publication such as Tempus would naturally take up the story of how the venerable swiss watchmaking industry was then laid waste by such technology. and true as that may be, our first house call at sii in morioka quickly highlights why seiko can hardly be held to blame for threatening the future of the Breguets, omegas and Breitlings. Here is a factory of stark

contrasts, with both extremes impressive – yet for opposite reasons. Down one corridor – “No photos, please” – a window overlooks a

factory floor the size of a football pitch, housing two serpentine production lines, each pumping out a quartz movement every second and each manned by a single hairnetted technician. overwhelmingly efficient and utterly hypnotic.

twenty paces along the corridor, we may as well have stepped through a wormhole and into the Jura: behold the shizuku-ishi

FIVE-DAY PLAN: (From above) A journey begins; the route map; Mt. Iwate and Morioka; a GPS-equipped Astro

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GRAND DESIGN: The Grand Seiko –“the best practical watch in the world” – now available internationally

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Watch studio, home to 20 lab-coated watchmakers, painstakingly tweezering together fewer than 100 mechanical movements per day for seiko’s ‘Grand seiko’ line. all of the components come from the ranks of cNc machines down another warren-like corridor.

seiko, being Japanese to a fault, are far too humble to sing their achievements from the rooftops, but despite being best known for inventing the quartz watch and dominating the entry-level ‘proper watch’ market globally, they’ve actually been making mechanical watches to rival those of omega or Rolex for over 50 years, but only for the Japanese.

Three years ago, Grand seiko went global. People are now waking up to the serious level of quality available for just £3,000 or thereabouts: highly stable 36,000vph escapements made by mems photo-lithography technology; ‘chronometer’ levels of precision; 72-hour power reserve; diamond-polished hands for optimum readability; and sober but handsome aesthetics, in perfectly crisp steel cases, hand-polished by the ‘Zaratsu’ technique.

Blame it on the gracious praise of the visiting watch journalists. call it the heady effect of a 100th anniversary. either way, our humble hosts were rightly inspired to slip a slide into their PowerPoint presentation that summed it up perfectly: “The best practical watch in the world.”

such justified hubris aside, Grand seiko’s distribution is inherently limited, despite growing 35-50% per year since going international. after all, a studio of 40 hands can only turn out so many precise movements. But seiko still have their eyes firmly on the higher-end,

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SILVER DREAM MACHINE: The Grand Seiko (below) is crafted by a studio of just 20 experts (above)

“Seiko is much bigger in Japan than we could

ever imagine”

Page 85: Tempus Issue 22

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Page 86: Tempus Issue 22

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Page 87: Tempus Issue 22

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and one particularly strategic product line working well to redress the balance is a collection bearing the resurrected name of ‘Astron’ – launched in 2012 and proving to be the perfect quartz/prestige crossover. Incredibly, its bezel-mounted antenna receives signals from GPS satellites in any of the world’s 39 time zones and adjusts itself automatically. It’s also solar-powered. The perfect desert-island timepiece in other words.

Astron is made in Seiko’s Epson plant in Shiojiri, alongside Grand Seiko’s high-end version of its mechanically wound Kinetic quartz technology, known as ‘Spring Drive’. Despite its youth, Astron has proved a massive success, production in the tens of thousands per year, a third going global and about 30 dealers in the UK alone. Not bad for a €2,000-plus quartz watch.

Again, “no photos please”, but rest assured that the production line for this particularly techy box of tricks bordered on NASA levels of sterility and semi-automation.

“It’s a statistical fact that UK is one of the cheapest watch markets in Europe,” admits our host, Robert Wilson, director of Seiko’s European marketing. “But we’re very keen to expand the business in the upper price ranges and we are doing every we can do to upgrade the image and type of products – across the board.”

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE: The all-new Astron (left), made in Seiko’s Epson plant in Shiojiri (above)

“The solar-powered Astron is the perfect

desert island timepiece”

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In the Japanese market, which represents more than 25% of global sales, purchases of watches over €1,000 represent more than half the total turnover. Outside Japan, this percentage is significantly lower and Seiko’s current goal is to achieve the same high level of sales for its prestige collections outside Japan as it has achieved domestically.

“We are investing huge amounts in the promotion of Astron in the media this autumn,” CEO and president Shinji Hattori says. “We need to be sure Astron becomes the de facto standard in watches.

“Looking ahead, we may focus more on the upper price ranges because it is here that we can offer watches that are truly unique, with our own technologies like Spring Drive, GPS Solar and Kinetic.

“We are investing heavily in this vision of the future.”

Typically Japanese humility is one thing that Seiko is finally getting over – thanks partly to the swagger gained from hitting 100 years of continuous watch production this year. That, and the fact, no doubt, that sales in the first half of 2013 were up from ¥57.8 billion to ¥70.4, a year-on-year increase of 22%.

“Double digit growth is looking certain this financial year,” according to Wilson, “and it is Grand Seiko and Astron that are leading the charge, with, we happily admit, a bit of help from a weaker yen.”

Whatever the reason, it is crystal-clear why Seiko are so big in Japan. And you shouldn’t have to schlep around the country in a bullet train to realise – just strap on an Astron or a Grand Seiko and you’ll soon start to understand that it doesn’t always have to be Swiss to feel special.

THE WIZARD OF QUARTZ

Here are ten reasons why Seiko invented, revolutionised and continues to lead the world in quartz watchmaking

• Seiko introduced the Quartz Clock (2.1x1.3m in size) for broadcasting in 1959, based on the principle of the ‘piezoelectric effect’ first discovered in 1880, where quartz produces an accurate vibration with electric contact.

• As official timekeeper for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, Seiko invented the Portable Quartz Chronometer QC-951, just 0.2m wide.

• By 1969, Seiko had reduced quartz timekeeping from cupboard-sized to wrist-sized, launching the Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch.

• This was managed thanks principally to a tiny stepping motor, whose one-second ‘tick’ became the world standard.

• Cleverly, the quartz itself was tuning fork-shaped, reducing its size and amplifying its oscillation.

• Astron’s CMOS processor replaced the usual processor used in electronic watchmaking, which consumed high power.

• Seiko produce their own synthetic quartz crystals in house, heating ‘seed crystals’ to 360ºC in a 14m-high autoclave over a period of two to six months. These are then cut and formed into the tuning fork shape.

• The ultimate quartz calibre is Seiko’s ‘9F’, launched in 1993, boasting a precision of +/-10 seconds per year.

• 9F’s backlash auto-adjust mechanism means the tick of the seconds hand is absolutely discrete, with no ‘wobble’.

• All of this expertise has been ploughed back into the Grand Seiko Spring Drive mechanism, a highly precise ‘kinetic’ quartz movement, decades in

GOING FOR GOLD: Seiko’s aim is for the Astron to become the “de facto standard in watches”

“The goal is to achieve the same high level of sales outside Japan”

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Leaner. Faster. Better. Stronger. From cool kit to fitness retreats, we round up all you need to

achieve 2014’s new you (except willpower)

Words – Hannah Silver

Peak performance

As the overindulgence of the festive season finally makes itself known through the loosening of belts and a reluctance to step on those bathroom scales, many of us will resolve to improve our health and fitness in 2014. Of course, it’s easy to stick to an eating and

exercise plan through January, but how do you ensure that those good intentions stay strong for the rest of the year? We’ve cherry-picked some of the world’s best wellbeing options – many of them road tested by the Tempus team. The new you starts here.

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[1] Embody FitnessLooking to get some personal training from former Olympians? Then check out Embody Fitness, a new PT-only gym in London’s Square Mile. It’s headed up by Richard Phillips, a one-time National League basketball star and Sarah Lindsay (left), who has competed in speed skating at the Olympic Games. The training is tough but, if you take a look at the before and after images on their website, the results speak for themselves.embodyfitness.co.uk

[2] PsycleOpening in London in February is Psycle, which offers total body workouts on a bike. Led by an Olympic coach, the classes are soundtracked by music chosen to enhance the emotional experience, leading to an epic post-workout high.psyclelondon.com

[3] Be Fit MonacoThis private training facility boasts one of the principality’s royal family as its star client. Princess Charlene’s personal trainers offer customised one-on-one training for all levels of fitness, whether you’re after a general tone-up or you’re a dedicated athlete looking to take it to the next level.befitmonaco.com

[4] Primal Fit2014 sees exercise science going back to basics, and Primal Fit classes at London’s Reebok Sports Club takes this trend to the extreme. You’ll perform animal-inspired movements using only your body weight in what promises to be a gruelling workout. The result? Greatly increased flexibility while working up a serious sweat.reeboksportsclublondon.com

[1] TechnogymIt’s no surprise Technogym is the go-to brand for the most prestigious gyms – its range of equipment is second to none. The new collection, Artis, uses interactive technology which lets you access your training programme wherever you are in the world, syncing your progress on a cloud-based portal. It’s also the only fitness range to be fitted with a webcam, so your trainer can see just how hard you’re working.technogym.com

[2] BodireelKeep a track on your progress with this fitness app. As well as monitoring your improvements, there’s a library of exercises and nutrition information as well as access to trainers who will keep you motivated with instant feedback.bodireel.com

Where to train

thekit

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[3] FitbitMeasure how much cardio you’re getting in on a daily basis with the Fitbit One, a simple but effective activity tracker that measures steps, distance, sleep efficiency and more.fitbit.com

[4] LifeSpanIt’s the big fitness trend in the US and will inevitably reach our shores soon. Google, Microsoft and the White House are just some of the employers who use active workstations, or treadmill desks as they’re better known. The clue’s in the name – a desk attached to a treadmill means you can get some serious cardio in while checking your emails. lifespanfitness.com

[5] AlterG Anti-Gravity TreadmillAt £34,000, it’s on the pricey side, but this anti-gravity treadmill will give you the best workout you’ve ever had. Runners are zipped into a chamber above the treadmill where NASA-patented technology is used to allow the runner to run at a fraction of

their body weight. You can push yourself for longer with less risk of injury, making it useful for those in recovery too.alterg.com

[6] Sigma SportSigma Sport has a great collection of bikes and accessories, but the top-of-the-range Factor Bikes Vis Vires has to be our

pick. Bike enthusiasts will appreciate groundbreaking

design features such as the revolutionary split downtube and dual bladed fork that

makes for a beautifully seamless ride. Power cranks

that can transmit data 192 times per second means you can analyse every pedal stroke.sigmasport.co.uk

[7] HypoxiSimon Cowell is a fan of Hypoxi machines, which promise to target unwanted fat on the waist, stomach, buttocks and thighs. Legs and thighs are shaped up by a vacuum treatment that sucks blood into the skin and fat tissue. If it’s your stomach that needs work, then try the PressureSuit: its design includes activation chambers that use positive and negative pressure to annihilate fat.hypoxi.net

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[8] TanitaTanita’s body composition monitor – which calculates everything including hydration level, metabolic rate and bone mass – is so advanced it can provide an in-depth breakdown of your arms, legs and abdomen, letting you track changes in your body fat and muscle mass in targeted areas. tanita.eu

[9] WaterRowerArguably the most stylish rowing machine out there, the WaterRower is available in stainless steel or finished in a bespoke colour. City dwellers will love the fact it can be stored upright, taking up as much room as a dining-room chair.waterrower.com

[10] Pure Design FitnessA set of swing bells is the perfect resistance companion to your cardio workout – and the ash wood and leather design looks great, too.puredesignfitness.com

[11] Rigo SpaRigo Spa has everything you need to make your fitness and wellness regime that bit more indulgent. Specialising in bespoke swimming pools, saunas and wet areas, the firm is loved by big hotels and private users alike, thanks to its well-crafted installations. Past creations include mud baths finished in faux stone, fibreglass vitality pools and domestic sauna and steam rooms – which can transform your home gym into a luxury spa.rigospa.com

[12] GariaThe Garia Mansory Currus is a golf car like no other. Designed by a car customiser who works with Bentley and Ferrari, it’s super-luxe and features a carbon fibre rear body and custom seat, making those days on the golf course more comfortable. Battery regeneration while driving and an adjustable setting for maximum motor braking give it a something of a race car feel.garia.com

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[13] DenonDenon’s Exercise Freak headphones are super-light and sweatproof. Sound quality isn’t neglected thanks to an integrated amplifier, while its Sport mobile app offers GPS tracking and a workout journal, making these a fitness essential.selfridges.com

[14] BrabantiaMeasuring weight, body fat, water and muscle percentages and BMI, the new Brabantia Body Analysis scales are the best on the market.brabantia.com

[15] YurbudsRunners will love the TwistLock technology on the Yurbuds headphones that keeps them firmly in place. Designed by athletes, they’re frequently voted as the best sports earphones on the market thanks to qualities such as a 3D soundscape, noise-isolating option and a handy tangle-free cord.yurbuds.co.uk

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wellbeingretreats

[1] The Body HolidayThis award-winning health and wellbeing resort in St Lucia lives by an irresistible motto: “Give us your body for a week and we’ll give you back your mind.” The largest spa in the Caribbean, a spinning studio in a tree house and personalised treatment programmes will help to restore your mind, body and soul after December’s inevitable decadence. thebodyholiday.com

[2] Park Hyatt Maldives HadahaaBoasting pristine white beaches and a stunning coral reef, the Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa is a feast for the senses. Yoga fans can also enjoy the hottest new fitness trend: aqua yoga. Normally difficult stretches can be performed without strain, with the water providing the perfect resistance for muscles to work against, making for a restorative workout.maldives.hadahaa.park.hyatt.com

[3] Singita Grumeti & Sabi Sand Game ReservesSee the big five game animals from a different perspective with cycle safaris that let you get up close and personal with herds of zebra and giraffe, travelling alongside them as part of their group. Singita Lebombo Lodge can be found high in the Lebombo Mountains in the beautiful Kruger National Park, perfectly placed for mountain biking with a difference.singita.com

[4] Soneva FushiExplore the beautiful reefs at Soneva Fushi in the Maldives in a completely new way, with its unique combination of free-diving and yoga. It allows you to go beyond your usual diving limits thanks to Pranayama – the art of breathing control.soneva.com

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ONLINE & IN STORE

w w w . s i g m a s p o r t . c o . u kSigma Sport, St Johns Place, 37-43 High Street,

Hampton Wick, Kingston upon Thames, Surrey KT1 4DA

Vis Vires:De�nition:(pl.) force, power, strength, might, in�uence.

Complete Bike £9,999.00.

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[1] Jamela Skin CareSurely the ultimate in pampering, the Jamela Skin Care’s 24ct gold collagen facial masks increase the skin’s moisture saturation level by up to 92%. The all-natural ingredients, including mineral gold, plant collagen and hyaluronic acid improve elastin in the skin, meaning fewer lines and a glowing complexion. jamelaskincare.com

[2] BravuraWhile performing skin peels at home may not sound like the most sensible option, Bravura London’s range of at-home skin peels are completely safe, thanks to the natural ingredients they contain. The active acids, sourced from sugar cane, sour milk and wintergreen, work to fight common skin issues such as blemishes, fine lines and wrinkles.bravuralondon.com

[3] Clinic LémanicFound in the heart of Lausanne, Switzerland, Clinic Lémanic is the place to go for all your dermatological needs. It’s run by leading specialists in medical and aesthetic dermatology and focuses on correcting age-related issues using powerful lasers and revolutionary rejuvenation techniques, giving you the perfect complexion.cliniclemanic.ch

[5] Les Prés d’EugénieGuests flock to this five-star hotel in southwest France to experience the thermal spa, with waters famous for their health properties. While there, there’s no excuse not to enjoy a guilt-free meal by head chef Michel Guérard, who offers healthy dishes in his three Michelin-starred restaurant. michelguerard.com

ultimategrooming

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[6] Verdura Golf & Spa ResortThe Wellness Centre at this Sicilian resort has four programmes – stress management, detoxification, weight loss and better ageing – set up by a Harley Street doctor specialising in nutritional, non-invasive medicine. There’s no need to deprive yourself, either, with stunning surroundings and meals based on fresh local produce to enjoy.verduraresort.com

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thesupplements

[1] BodyismThe Bodyism gym, based in the Bulgari hotel, Knightsbridge, has produced its own range of Clean and Lean supplements. Male Testo is the first male-dedicated supplement and its organic, vegetarian and protein-rich formula will prove the perfect complement to your extensive workout.bodyism.com

[2] FTNFTN, favoured by A-listers Sir Elton John and Agyness Deyn, is the world’s first nutraceutical stem cell recovery drink. It has five key ingredients, including green tea extract, vitamin D and micro-algae, all of which aim to provide everything your stem cells need to flourish, speeding up the body’s natural repair and renewal.ftnbelieve.com

[3] PuritionUnlike most protein shakes on the market, Purition contains wholefood fats, fibre and vitamins and minerals as well as whey protein, making for a complete and natural meal.purition.co.uk

[4] Aloe veraThe aloe vera plant has been renowned for its healing properties since Biblical times and it’s now available as a daily drinking gel. Users find it gives a great nutrition boost, increasing energy, helping with sore joints and improving skin, digestive and immune system problems.aloeoriginals.co.uk

Boxing cleverShane McGuigan, son of championship boxer Barry, reveals his top tips for healthy 2014

How to reduce acidity in the body Reducing acidity in the body keeps cortisol levels lower. Cortisol is a stress hormone and stress decreases insulin sensitivity. The less sensitive you are, the less your body can tolerate carbohydrates so you’re more likely to put on body fat. The trick is to eat plenty of greens after training as it also lowers your pH levels. You should also add lemon or lime to your water throughout the day.

HydrateDrink plenty of water. Approximately one litre of water for every 25kg of your body weight, so if you weigh 12 stone, aim for three litres per day. Consume two thirds of this water before lunchtime – this flushes you out, and wakes you up.

Get plenty of sleepTry and get at between seven to nine hours of sleep per night – and the earlier you go to bed the better. You release growth hormones during sleep which aids fat loss, so the more sleep you have the more fat you burn. Set a goal of 50 to 60 hours of sleep per week and make up for missed hours by sleeping in at weekends.

Don’t eat sugarCut out all processed foods such as sweets, fizzy drinks and cereals. Watch out for hidden sugars in foods such as dried fruits. Stick to eating fruits when they’re in season and in moderation.

Don’t be fat phobicIf you’re body is eating good fats, then it’s much less likely to store them, and will instead use them for energy. Eat both saturated and unsaturated fats. Coconut oil contains fatty acids, which enhance the immune system and also stimulate metabolism, helping to aid weight loss.

Don’t count caloriesYour body isn’t a calorie counter, so stop looking at those labels. You can’t compare a 250 calorie Mars bar to a 250 calorie chicken. Instead, choose good quality whole foods that your body can process easily and turn into energy.

mcguigansgym.com

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Seamless IndulgenceDesign - Manufacture - Install

Seamless IndulgenceDesign - Manufacture - Install

From saunas, steam rooms and hammams to ice rooms and chilled plunge pools and drenches, Rigo Spa will send your temperature rising. With style, with craftsmanship - and with the creativity to make your wildest spa dreams come true.

Tel: +44 (0) 151 236 4259 Email: [email protected] Web: www.rigospa.com 1 Lanyork Road, Pall Mall, Liverpool, UK, L3 6JB Seamless Indulgence

Design - Manufacture - Install

From saunas, steam rooms and hammams to ice rooms and chilled plunge pools and drenches, Rigo Spa will send your temperature rising. With style, with craftsmanship - and with the creativity to make your wildest spa dreams come true.

Tel: +44 (0) 151 236 4259 Email: [email protected] Web: www.rigospa.com 1 Lanyork Road, Pall Mall, Liverpool, UK, L3 6JB

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AUTUMN / WINTER 2013 READY TO WEAR COLLECTIONwww.richardandersonltd.com

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hardyards

In terms of revelatIons, my conversion to fitness has been a big one. for someone who previously lived their life in a fog of marlboro smoke, champagne and late nights, rising at 4.30am to endure thrice-weekly punishing workouts, courtesy of two of the UK’s best personal trainers, has been a rude awakening.

The results, though, speak for themselves. When it first signed up to train with ruben tabares fitness at The vault, a personal training-only gym in the City of london, I was overweight, got out of breath when climbing stairs and found my suits and shirts seemed to be getting tighter with every passing month.

four months on and – combined with a fairly hardcore eating plan that's seen me drop almost all carbs in favour of protein, veg and superfood shakes (see recipe on the next page) – I’ve lost two stone, dropped from a 36” to a 32” waist and look – according to my wife, at least – five years younger.

In terms of training, the three sessions comprise two ‘power’ hours and one hour devoted to non-stop cardio and strength. The former is overseen by ruben tabares, a former european 400m junior hurdles champion and olympic team prospect who has gone on to be the strength and conditioning coach for the likes of amir Khan, P Diddy and current clients tinie tempah and David Haye. The latter is also involved with ruben and Jon in Pt Club, a high-end training service that delivers Pt to your home.

The cardio session was run by Jon squirell, ruben’s former hurdling partner on the GB athletics team, who also owns The vault gym. although Jon is reluctant to reveal publicly some of the big names he currently trains, I’ve spotted several famous faces waiting for him while I finished my sessions.

What was interesting was that ruben and Jon, more than any other trainer I’ve ever talked to, spent weeks on

‘adaptation’ with me. Their motto being: ‘Get fit to train, don’t train to get fit.’ What this means is ruben worked on muscle strength, tendon and ligament strength and flexibility, while Jon worked on cardiovascular endurance and heart rate recovery – the heart-pounding sweaty stuff, in other words. top masseuse

Joanne Halstead was also on hand to ease any tightness from the training

This is combined with a fairly hardcore eating plan to give great results within the first month.

“one of the most common misconceptions people have about training is that if you train hard, you can eat what you want. It’s simply not true. People also expect fast results but patience is key,” says Jon.

Your streamlined editor on his voyage from flab to fab with the help of the personal trainer to the stars

Words – Scott Manson

tHE MAN WItH tHE PLAN: Ruben tabares, former European 400m junior hurdles champion and trainer to pop stars and sportsmen

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By month four, he said I was ready to take it to the next level. This meant an hour’s sprint training every week, held on a south london athletics track where Jon used to train.

The first thing to nail was my technique. I thought I knew how to run but, as it turns out, I really didn’t. There are so many parts to proper sprinting – arms chopping, head up, chest out, feet brushing (not pounding) the ground – that it felt like learning to drive a car for the first time. more than that, though, was the incredible exhaustion that comes from running full tilt. for the first time ever I felt pain in my intercostal muscles – who knew that your chest wall could feel like someone had crushed it, just because you’d done some hard running?

“What we’re doing is training energy systems and chemical responses to exercise,” says Jon. “In the main we’re looking at your lactate tolerance, otherwise known as ‘hitting the wall’.”

Basically, when your body starts to exercise, the muscles need oxygen to work. When you are receiving enough oxygen you are working aerobically, which is the case with joggers.

sprinting, though, is a very different beast. There comes a point where you can no longer meet the increasing oxygen demands and you start to work anaerobically, producing lactic acid. This break point is a true fitness indicator as it can be delayed, allowing you to run faster and harder for

longer by training. “What I’ve been doing is playing around with your break point by pushing you up to it and coming off and repeating this process over and over again,” explains Jon. “The way I manipulate this is by changing three variables: speed, distance and recovery, keeping you anaerobic for longer.”

a typical session then, following a lengthy warm-up to avoid injury, could comprise of five 200m runs, with decreasing rest periods of two minutes, then one minute 30 seconds, one minute and then 30 seconds. It might sound easy, but it’s outrageously tough. Thankfully, a lot of the training I’d done up to that point – particularly jump squats, power clean lifts and abdominal work – had strengthened my body for the strain that sprinting puts it under.

The upshot of all this is that Jon has entered me for a 300m ‘open’ race at the local athletics club in march. six months ago, if you told me I’d be doing that, I’d have laughed long and hard. now I couldn’t be more up for it – such is the motivational power of Jon squirell, ruben tabares and the fabulous vault gym, my second home for the last four months.

PT Sessions with Ruben or Jon from £150thevaultgym.com, rubentabares.com, ptclubuk.com

Superfood shake

Drink this post-exercise1 teaspoon each of maca, cacao powder, acai, camu camu, mixed with water or coconut water in a small glass.

Super juice

Drink this in the morningPut the following through a juicer: • 2 carrots• 1 beetroot• 2 celery sticks• 1/4 of a cucumber• 1 pepper• Leafy greens such as watercress, spinach or rocket

• 1 apple or 1/4 of a pineapple

tHE KING OF CARDIO: Meet Jon Squirell, owner of the Vault, Ruben's former hurdling partner and cardio session overlord

“Four months on and I've lost two stone and

look f ive years younger”

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Your private world

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Words – Hannah Silver- i n v e s t m e n t -

w h at ’ s t h e

alternative?As saving with some banks now looks about as sensible as stuffing your mattress with fistfuls of fifties, we investigate nine other ways of investing your money – areas in which an irresistible

combination of careful research and gambler’s instinct goes a long way to a good yield

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Classic cars Fine motors will never go out of style, with a recent study by Knight Frank showing that top of the range vintage cars such as Ferraris, Bugattis and Bentleys have seen their value rise by 430% in the last ten years – even managing to outperform rises in gold, fine wines and art.

Prices on many models are continuing to rise, with record prices paid this year for some very special cars. Paul Campbell, sales manager and classic car specialist at silverstone auctions, points out that financial advisors in the City are now looking at classic cars for investors’ portfolios in the same way they used to look at property. “If you take Ferrari or aston Martin, for example, it’s very simple to track the value these cars are realising,” he explains. “we would advise buying the best you can afford. Buy in heritage, buy on pedigree and then you’ve got security in your investment.”

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Property The property market is notoriously fickle, and shrewd buyers are now eschewing the roller coaster that is the London market and looking further afield.

as we come out of the recession, the rest of europe’s still struggling through it, so now is the best time to buy abroad.

ski properties in particular will make great investments due to the huge rental rates available during winter and the limited supply available, with strict regulations in place on new developments. Prime location can be found in the French alps or switzerland, although austria and Italy are also doing well.

For rapid growth, look to Bulgaria, Romania or Montenegro. tim Latimer, managing director of Firefly Collection confirms: “Property prices in some resorts have soared in recent years despite the global economic situation and, if properly managed, ski chalets can provide a reliable rental income as demand for ski holidays is as strong as ever.” Of course, there’s also the added luxury of being able to pick your own skiing holiday dates in peak season.

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Horses while it’s always possible with a lot of knowledge – and a bit of luck – to rake in the cash through race winnings, there’s some serious money to be made in owning the racehorses themselves. as they’re on the pricey side, syndicates are a popular option and can have some considerable success.

highclere Thoroughbred Racing syndicate sold one horse, Petrushka, for £3.5m after buying her for £100,000 two years earlier, while Mike tindall bought Monbeg Dude for £12,000 with four others and saw the price rise to over £200,000.

It’s a risky investment and has high running costs including training, race entry fees, veterinary costs and insurance, but there’s a thrill you get with owning a racehorse that you don’t get with more sober investments.

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Crowdfunding Raising funds through individuals who pool their money for a collective cause has long been popular for up-and-coming artists who are looking to finance smaller projects. however, since it’s really taken off, with projects attracting sums into the hundreds of thousands, serious financiers and the business world has begun to sit up and take notice.

scott steinberg, CeO and author of Becoming Essential and The Crowdfunding Bible, thinks it’s the future of investment, thanks to the sheer amount of potential investors: “Besides drawing attention, dollars and interest, the exposure can help creators gain knowledge to help them target audiences, mitigate financial risks and draw public and media attention to new projects.”

Thanks to new rules that have been set up by the securities and exchange Commission, which state startups can now raise funds from the general public, it looks set to become a serious way to spur economic growth. Limits to protect investors, such as capping the amount you can invest and being required to share some financial information with investors, means crowdfunding could becoming the next key investment scheme.

CoinsThe fall in the price of gold has led to renewed interest in rare coin collecting, moving it from the realm of hobbyists to buyers looking for a good long-term investment. with increased confidence in the financial markets, too, those hobbyists are also starting to spend again.

The upshot, says Michael Fuljenz, president of Universal Coin & Bullion – in conversation with Forbes magazine – that “the big money is spending like they haven’t in the past five years. Coins that are in the $5,000 to $10,000 range are scarce”.

Besides the obvious financial benefits, there is also the more emotional gain of owning a piece of history and something that will never be made again – a Roman coin is a far more interesting portfolio addition than stocks and shares.

It’s advisable, though, to ensure you acquire an entire collection of one type of rare coin, rather than having a mix of pieces. The former will reap greater rewards when you go to sell.

4 5Bitcoin

Paul Plewman, director of Sable international FX explains the appeal of this digital currency

“Bitcoin serves a function for those seeking the benefits of peer-to-peer transfers, which include

lower charges than those levied on credit card payments. However, as a decentralised currency, there is no regulator to resolve transaction disputes and payments are irreversible. If you lost your computer holding your digital wallet, you’d be out of pocket. This could make for an interesting alternative investment, though. Their scarcity is inbuilt, with a maximum of 21 million available for circulation – and the act of creating (or “mining”) bitcoins using computer algorithms gets harder as they get scarcer. 21 million may seem a lot, but compare it with the average volume traded every day in traditional currency markets ($5.3 trillion dollars) and the scale is apparent. It’s early days yet for the currency, and while many are watching with interest, no one knows for sure how the market will mature.”

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Watches Watches can be an incredibly canny – and safe – investment, but since the majority of them aren’t investment-worthy, it’s vital to do your research before buying. As always, the more you have to invest the better, so focusing just on one watch rather than several cheaper ones would be wise.

“Watches are collectable and so there’s a demand,” points out Toby Sutton, co-founder and director of auction house Watches of Knightsbridge. “Factors that can influence prices are rarity or limited production run, heritage, fashion, precious metal content and, more recently, how a watch has aged.”

As brands increase their retail prices each year, the pre-owned and vintage market goes up, too. And of course the major advantage with choosing a watch as your investment is you get to enjoy wearing it as its value grows.

Art Investing in art is one of the more traditional routes, but it’s also one of the riskiest. Art experts will advise never buying for the purpose of investment but because you enjoy a piece and are happy to live with it, as it may take time to realise its financial potential.

To get a return on an artwork, you have to spend big. In 2013, Bacon’s Three Studies of Lucian Freud became the most expensive artwork sold at auction (£89m), while a Cézanne went for £150m two years ago.

J.P. Morgan points out that newly created wealth in emerging sectors like China, Russia and the Middle East means the market is stronger then ever, while the creation of new investment products that invest in art and new speciality funds have seen a flood of new investors to the market.

As with all investments, studying history and trends will help tremendously.

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Whisky It’s dubbed ‘liquid gold’ for good reason. According to research by Whisky Highland, an £100,000 investment in the top ten bottles five years ago would be worth more then £400,000 now, which is an impressive increase of more then 300%. The rarity of some blends means you will always be repaid handsomely for your initial investment – if you don’t drink it, that is.

Unlike other investments, you don’t necessarily have to spend a lot to get started. A Macallan priced at £150 and released to celebrate Prince William and Kate Middleton’s marriage in 2011 now sells for about £900.

Nick Tether, group marketing manager at Speciality Drinks Ltd, advises that now is the time to concentrate on malt whiskies: “While it used to be all about blends, malt whisky is in high growth now – while 12 years ago it was 2% of the market, now it’s around 10%.”

Jewellery So much more than an accessory, fine jewels are still a desirable option as a financial venture. Gold jewellery in particular has had another year of solid year-on-year growth as demand grows for more luxurious, higher carat pieces. Platinum is becoming a safe bet, as this year the market moved towards a supply and demand deficit – the largest since 1999 – which coincides with South Africa, the world’s biggest provider, producing the lowest levels yet thanks to work issues in the country. More so than any other investment, jewellery is an intensely personal choice.

Our advice for those with deep pockets? Go for coloured diamonds – the prices for these ‘flawed’ rarities are increasingly rapidly.

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In 1992 I sold my first pre-1940 Aston Martin for £42,500. If this same car was for sale today I would ask £200,000 for it. Pre-1940 Aston Martin values have increased over the past 22 years at a steady rate out performing many other investments. This has allowed the lucky owners to maintain and improve their motorcars, enjoy using them and reap the benefits of an appreciating asset should they wish to do so. Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. always has a stock of pre-1940 Aston Martins for sale, and we are able to maintain them to the highest standards, using parts manufactured by ourselves from original works engineering drawings.

Fresh restoration to the highest standards. This MK11 drives like a new car. Steel crank and rod engine by Archers of Dunmow, chassis work by Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. Stripped in the 1950’s by the previous owner and stored for 50 years by the present retired garage owner, who rescued it and eventually undertool the restoration. Very few MK11s have been restored to this standard. 50 miles since completion. Genuinely a ‘must be seen’ car, it really is exceptional in every detail.Price £225,000

One of only 2 cars built to this specification by the factory with 2 seat body by E. Bertelli Ltd. This car went to the USA in the 1950’s and has been re-painted and re-upholstered, but is otherwise as it left the UK. It remained in the same ownership until very recently and is therefore extremely original and correct in every respect. Ecurie Bertelli has rebuilt the engine using a new cylinder block fitted with new steel crankshaft and con rods to racing specification and it has been dyno tested to 85 bhp, so this very rare 2 seater Bertelli Aston goes as well as it looks. Rare and beautiful this 2 seater Aston would hold its own in any concours in the world.Price £275,000

Contact Andy Bell for further details of these two cars and others in our current [email protected]

[email protected]

Tel: +44 (0)1234 240024Fax: +44 (0)1234 240054

1934 1.5 litre MK11 short chassis 1935 1 ½ litre MKII short chassis 2 seater

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- s u p e rya c h t s -Words – Ellie Brade

With a breathtaking reinvention worthy of Doctor Who under its belt, the new incarnation of charter superyacht Southern Cloud is its the most sky-reaching yet

AustrAliA’s lArgest charter superyacht is a visual treat that has been turning heads since her launch onto the charter market this year. Based out of sydney, the charter is a new stage of her long and adventurous life, having been reincarnated more than once.

At 40m long, with towering triple masts, the Danish-designed Southern Cloud is every inch the elegant sailing superyacht. Not surprising, perhaps – until you consider she first began life as a motoryacht.

Midway through the build, her owner decided the yacht he needed was something a little different to the one underway and Southern Cloud’s hull was converted to the shape she takes today. Her superstructure was elongated while the project’s naval architects went to work designing those

distinctive triple masts and working through the process of finely-tuning the yacht to ensure the integrity of her lines.

That wasn’t to be the only major turning point in Southern Cloud’s life, however. When her original owner converted the yacht to sail, she was loaded with enough engineering equipment to ensure an adventurous helmsman could set out on long-range cruises, sailing with minimal crew.

And that’s what she did. The yacht and her owners left Denmark to circumnavigate the world; exploring down through the Pacific before crossing to Australia and working along the country’s east coast. Then the recession hit, and through a series of unfortunate incidents, Southern Cloud found herself abandoned on a quiet beach in the tourist mecca of Queensland’s gold Coast.

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A n A u s t r a l i a n

rebirth

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That was six years ago. Things looked bleak for the superyacht until, recognising her pedigree, a new owner bought the yacht and set about the painstaking task of restoring her to her former glory. Not content with simply getting the yacht back to sailing standard, Southern Cloud’s new owners fitted her with every cruising comfort, creating a yacht with a unique brand of refined, quiet luxury to complement the wildly beautiful environment of her Australian home cruising grounds.

Her second reincarnation, as Australia’s largest charter superyacht, had begun.

With the beam of a motoryacht, the space Southern Cloud offers is exceptional. Her guests enjoy barefoot luxury, lounging in one of her many spacious deck areas, diving from the bow, or relaxing in the full-beam master suite, with a swathe of glass overlooking the yacht’s wake.

Southern Cloud has taken to her new home with aplomb; and her new home has taken to her, becoming a yacht-spot favourite with sydneysiders, and with many sharing photos of the yacht’s inner harbour jaunts on social media networks.

There’s one more reincarnation on the cards, however. After summering in sydney, where she is engaged in various events, the yacht is scheduled to undertake further refit before setting out on a south Pacific voyage of exploration with her owners.

something tells us it won’t be the last episode in this character-filled yacht’s life.

Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence. thesuperyachtgroup.com

In briefLOA: 40m | 130ft Guests live aboard: 12Cabins: SixGuests, day charter: 49

• 8m Protector tender• 5m Caribe jet tender• Scuba diving equipment

braymanagement.com.au

CRUISE CONTROL: The Cloud is now restored to her former glory, inside and out

ON CLOUd NINE: New owners have taken this vessel on a journey from wreck to superyacht

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Factory Specifi cation: 2.2 Litre 4 Cylinder Diesel Engine, 6 Speed Manual Gearbox, Air Conditioning, All Terrain Anti-Lock Braking System, Audio System - Single Slot CD & Radio, Driver & Front Passenger Sun Visors, Electric Front Windows, Electronic Traction Control (ETC), Front Axle Two Pin Differential, Front Mudfl aps, Heated Front Seats, Heated Rear Screen, Heated Windscreen, Locking Wheel Nuts, Manual Adjustable Exterior Mirrors, Manual Dipping Interior Rear View Mirror, Perimetric/Volumetric Alarm, Power assisted Steering, Rear Door Stowage Net, Rear Folding Step, Rear Mudfl aps, Rear Quarter Windows, Remote Central Locking, Side Runners, Standard Duty Suspension, Station Wagon Roof, Tinted Glass Front & Side, Two Cupholders, Underseat Bottle Jack, Windscreen Wash/Wipe System (intermittent Function).

All prices exclude Road Fund Licence and a First Registration Fee at the current rate. Government Charge. UK vehicles. LHD vehicles available at an extra cost (Stock arriving monthly).

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The world’s most exclusive open-topped car, decked out to impress

Words – Kyle Fortune

Price€3.3m (excluding taxes)

Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h)

2.9 seconds

Top speed221mph

Engine6.5-litre V12 petrol 750hp

Transmission7-speed paddle-shift

automatic, all-wheel driVe

Constructioncarbon fibre

s h o c k & aw eIt takes a lot to upstage Harrier jump jets and an aircraft carrier, but lamborghini achieved exactly that by launching its Veneno Roadster on the deck of the Italian Navy’s Cavour when docked in abu Dhabi’s Zayed Port.

The extreme one-of-nine Veneno Roadsters follows its coupé relation – even rarer with just three built – into production, with lamborghini charging €3.3m (before local taxes) for the privilege of owning the world’s most dramatic looking open-topped car.

taking lamborghini’s styling to the extreme, the body is a carbon fibre homage to vents, wings and sharp edges. those gaping inlets and vents help feed cool air to and vent heat from the Veneno’s 6.5-litre V12 engine.

The Veneno lamborghini’s mighty 12-cylinder produces some 750hp, enough to allow it to reach 62mph (100km/h) in just 2.9 seconds on its way to a 221mph (355km/h) top speed. That makes it among the very fastest and most exclusive ways to test the strength of your hair follicles.

Underneath its extreme bodywork, the Veneno borrows technology from race cars, featuring the same composite

monocoque construction as the aventador, with push-rod suspension and a seven-speed IsR transmission with five different selectable modes. Despite its extreme nature and performance, the Veneno is road legal, with all the usual safety systems and airbags fulfilling all registration requirements worldwide.

each of the nine customers is able to personalise their car to suit their exacting preferences – as you might expect given the price. even so, lamborghini hasn’t had any trouble finding homes for all of them, which leaves us wondering what they’ll come up with next. or where it’ll be launched…

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Enhance your car’s performance with an Akrapovič exhaust system. More horsepower, more torque, reduced weight. And that unmistakable Akrapovič sound. Akrapovič exhaust systems are also available for performance models from the following brands - Abarth, Audi, BMW, Chevrolet, Ferrari, Ford, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz AMG, MINI, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Porsche, Renault and VW. Akrapovič systems are available in titanium and stainless steel with exquisite carbon fibre or titanium tailpipes. On many models, you can add a Wireless Kit for adjustable sound.

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458 Italia / 458 Spider Ferrari

Page 123: Tempus Issue 22

The brilliance of BlancA to-die-for stay in a part of Oxfordshire that is forever France

Of all the so-called ‘celebrity’ chefs, Raymond Blanc is arguably the most intriguing. Entirely self-taught, Blanc spent his childhood cooking alongside his mother at his home in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France, close to the watchmaking heartland of the Jura mountains, serving up dishes that used the best fresh, local and seasonal produce.

Today, all the best chefs follow this scripture. When Blanc arrived in England in the early 1970s, finding good produce was very difficult. The result was that, when he opened the foodie mecca that is Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in the sleepy village of Great Milton, Oxfordshire, in 1984, part of the extensive grounds were allocated

- h o t e l s -Words – Scott Manson

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for an organic herb and vegetable garden. This now supplies most of the produce for Blanc’s double Michelin-starred kitchen, an honour that the restaurant has held for an unprecedented – in the UK, at least – 29 years.

The tasting menu was a stunning selection of dishes from a kitchen operating at the height of its powers. No need for showy molecular gastronomy here – just food that you genuinely wanted to eat, with ingredients whose natural flavours and textures are

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allowed to shine through. It was accompanied by a bottle of Leung Estate ‘Ma Maison’ Pinot Noir 2011, a wine that comes in at the crunchy red fruit end of the spectrum, with raspberries in vanilla yoghurt, redcurrants and sweet poached strawberry fruit gently rising above touches of green peppercorn and basil. 

Among the highlights of what was, frankly, one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten, was a salad of Devonshire crab, grapefruit and celery – a brilliant twist on a classic starter. This was followed by moreish risotto of wild mushrooms with truffle cream and then, my favourite course of the night, pan-fried Cornish Dover sole fillet, scallop, and cauliflower purée. Expertly cooked fish, a creamy, buttery puree and clever little touches, such as a finely sliced cauliflower sitting under a scallop – so it resembled a piece of coral – reminds you why the Michelin inspectors hold this place in such high regard.

The cheese course was, naturally, a selection of aged Comté from Blanc’s native region, served with a glass of Vin Jaune De Garde (‘Yellow Wine’ of the Jura) which, if I’m being kind, is something of an acquired taste.

Still, the smiling waiter did warn us that not everyone likes it.

The temptation to linger in the dining room was great, but the draw of our opulent garden suite proved too great. Thoughtful touches, such as a decanter of fine madeira in the living room plus a beautiful secluded outdoor terrace, made for a perfect place for post-prandial drinks. While our room had a handsome Art Deco feel to it, all the hotel’s rooms have their own character. This ranges from smart rustic to Provençal to a slicker Oriental feel. Elsewhere, there are cute attic rooms with exposed beams and casement-style windows, with every room offering a vast bed (ours even had a TV that slowly dropped down from the canopy of the four-poster bed) and sizeable clawfoot baths, the latter surrounded by indulgent olive oil-based unguents.

The difficulty in getting a restaurant or, indeed, hotel, reservation at this place is testament to its deserved reputation. It’s worth persevering, though: Raymond Blanc has created the last word in luxury hospitality, manoir.com

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www.headlandhotel.co.uk

YOUR HEADLAND ESCAPEFrom scrumptious relaxation to adrenalin adventures, gorgeous gardens and romantic weekends, The Headland Hotel & The Headland Cottages are your perfect luxury escape. • Price £799 for 2

people for 2 nights

• 2 nights’ accommodation in one of The Headland’s ‘Best’ rooms including a full Cornish breakfast each morning

• Use of the Leisure Area & Life Fitness Gym throughout your stay

• ‘The Ceremony’ treatment for each guest http://www.headlandhotel.co.uk/spa/special-offers/

• Use of our VIP suite within the Spa

• 3 course dinner for 2 in The Restaurant on the night of arrival

As with all offers, subject to availability. Additional nights available, please ask on booking. Valid until 30th April, excluding 5th – 20th April.

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- b e s p o k e c y c l e s -Words – Alex Pell

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Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Think2 If you intend to invest in a truly great road bike then you may as well own the model that has dominated the Tour de France recently. To be fair, your legs may not be as sturdy as Chris Froome’s and unless your typical journeys involve munching serious distances, then this is perhaps a slight indulgence. Nevertheless, no other bike comes close to matching the Dogma’s unique combination of comfort, handling, and power. Perhaps this is due to the rich Italian racing pedigree of Pinarello – plus the design insights of British cycling guru Sir Dave Brailsford. Maybe the magic is all in the bike’s Nanoalloy carbon-fibre technology which comprises the frame. One thing is for sure, though: owning one of these will put a smile on your face for many years to come. Just make sure you get a good lock at the same time.Around £10,000, pinarello.com

Inspired by Sir Brad’s bespoke knighthood whistle and flute, here’s a quintet of beautifully tailored bikes to help you shed those extra festive pounds in fine style

Wheels of Fortune

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Boardman CX Comp 2014 If your riding regularly involves tearing along roads as well as gnarled paths, then a cyclo-cross bike is the ideal ally. The Boardman CX Comp is sensational value and designed to be multipurpose rather than a serious off-road racer. If that’s your thing, consider the firm’s Elite CXR 9.4 model – although this more than triples the price.£900, boardmanbikes.com

Mango Bikes Mango delivers a big old dollop of two-wheeled frivolity for the price of a fine meal. These cute, single-speed, bikes can be configured in a dizzying array of colour combinations and – despite the modest price – are a credible option for nipping around. Go for the signature green-and-orange and you’ll never be short of small talk again. £295, mangobikes.co.uk

Whyte Montpellier 2014 The term ‘hybrid’ tends to refer to urban bikes that typically feature suspension to help you glide over bumps but which, in reality, just slows you down. The Montpellier eschews this idea in favour of an elegant carbon frame with geometry akin to a mountain bike and yet is seriously slick about town. A beautiful piece of design, too. £1,500, whytebikes.com

Hackett Cooper Urban riders are increasingly veering towards single-speed bikes such as this, avoiding the unnecessary heft and complexity of gears. This special-edition model was created by two classic British brands in tandem and simply oozes class. The chrome finish, classic Brooks saddle, and overall attention to detail make this a ride to be coveted.£1,200 cooperbikes.com

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BE THE FIRST.BECOME ELECTRIC.BOOK YOUR TEST DRIVE TODAY.

The Ultimate Driving Machine

BMW i

Some people follow. Others like to lead. If that’s you, you might be interested in the electric BMW i3. Designed to combine the benefits of an electric car with ultimate driving pleasure, it launches in November. And, if you sign up for a test drive from 16 November, you might even be one of the first people in Britain to drive it.

For more information or to arrange a test drive* from 16 November, call us on 020 3073 5000 or visit www.bmwparklane.com.

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TEST DRIVE 020 3073 5000

Official fuel economy figures for the BMW i3: mpg N/A, CO2 emissions 0 g/km, nominal power output (electric motor) 75/102 kW/hp at 4,800 rpm; peak power output (electric motor) 125/170 kW/hp, total average energy consumption per 62 miles/100 km (combined cycle) 12.9 kWh, customer orientated range 80–100 miles, total range (combined cycle) 118 miles. Official fuel economy figures for the BMW i3 with Range Extender: mpg 470.8, CO2 emissions 13 g/km, total average energy consumption per 62 miles/100 km (weighted combined cycle) 11.5 kWh, customer orientated range without use of Range Extender 75-93 miles, weighted combined cycle total range 211 miles, weighted combined cycle range without use of Range Extender 106 miles. Figures may vary depending on driving style and conditions.*Test drive subject to applicant status and availability.

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c i t i e s

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Words – Ruben Tabares- T R AV E L -

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Venice, Italyas a first-timer in Venice, i’d already received the words of warning. Prices were stratospheric, tourists were ripped off at every turn and the canals smelled ripe through the summer months.

Thankfully, we avoided the latter by travelling in october and, while the first two points contain elements of truth, a little research – plus the help of a fabulous concierge at our hotel – ensured we experienced Venice, if not like a local, then at least as clued-up travellers.

The unforgettable experience started with a short speedboat ride from the airport to Bauer

Romantic Venice goes head-to-head with vibrant Lisbon for the coveted prize of the destination choice of your next city break

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Palladio Hotel and spa. The ultra-luxury hotel is housed in a historic palace originally designed by renowned Renaissance architect andre Palladio. situated on Guidecca island, within a stone’s throw of some of the city’s most famous attractions, such as st Mark’s square, its distance across the water makes it feel a world away from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist trail.

The hotel, like the city itself, is immediately captivating. it is nothing less than a feast of unsurpassed opulence, with every door that we walk through providing a sophisticated take on Venice’s past and a scintillating glimpse of 17th-century life. The breathtaking views of st Marks from our room – a five minute ride away by complementary boat transfer – only adds to the sense of wonder.

Granted, this being an old listed building, some of the light quality in the smaller rooms is a little lacking – there’s not much you can do to expand the size of the windows, unfortunately – but take a room in a suite and you are guaranteed to be staying in one of the best spaces in the city. with their italian marble bathrooms, beautiful tapestries and antique furnishings, they are a sheer delight.

elsewhere, Murano glass lanterns provide a nod to one of the city’s best-known artisan products, a private garden (a rarity in the city) is the perfect place for a morning coffee and a huge spa offers energising Dead sea mud treatments that saw my partner go from slothful laziness to ‘let’s go shopping!’ in the space of 90 minutes.

the Bauer group has also extended its premises with the very impressive Villa f. a former nobleman’s house that’s now been divided into 11 apartments – it also featured in the film The Tourist starring Johnny Depp and angelina Jolie – and has become of the smartest addresses in Venice for those who value privacy and discretion.

Dinner, too, was similarly impressive. taken in the l’Ulivo restaurant, or outdoors in the garden, it comprised light and savoury dishes

made with local organic ingredients, homemade cakes using the freshest, ripest seasonal fruit and a fine selection of wines from the nearby friuli region.

Venturing into the city, our concierge had earmarked a handful of handsome Gothic palazzos and neighbourhood wine bars to check out, plus some superb out-of-the-way restaurants. The latter saw us enjoy wild duck from the lagoon and fried soft-shell crab at Vina da Gigio, a local’s favourite, and succulent

The hotel, like the city itself, is immediately captivating –

nothing less a feast of opulence

grilled razor clams at Da Remigio. i’d also highly recommend anywhere offering baccalà (creamy salt cod) or the incredibly moreish fritto misto (deep fried fish and seafood). oh, and obviously you can’t go to Venice without trying a bellini at Harry’s Bar.

Visiting one of the world’s most memorable destinations should be on everyone’s bucket list but take my advice and do it in style. The Bauers style.palladiohotelspa.com

ROOM WITH A VIEW: A stay at the Bauers guarantees you stylish rooms and superb Venice vistas

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THE LIFE AQUATIC: The hotel’s location on a quiet island is the perfect escape from the city’s crowds

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CITY OF LIGHT: Long hours of sunshine and glorious sunsets are some of the hallmarks of this enchanting city

Words – Peter Dean

“Tell me if the pressure is too much,” my petite masseuse Andrea whispers in the candle-lit treatment room, as her oiled hands ease the last knots of London lifestyle out of my shoulders. I barely reply as I stare deep down into a pool of rose petals, slightly giddy from the citrus oils that fill the room and the lingering sweet aftertaste of the lunchtime bottle of Alvarinho. No, this is the kind of pressure I can handle. Seriously.

My treatment is in the basement spa of Lisbon’s Ritz Four Seasons, a hotel that for four heady days, I can call home.

After a few laps of the rooftop jogging track, or a session in the pilates room that gazes down on Western Europe’s oldest city, the 1,500 square metre spa is the only place to be. You sip green tea on a terrace that seems to jut out into the foliage of Parque Eduardo VII. Or drift off next to the aquamarine lap pool, the type Don Draper would lounge by if he could drag himself away from the cocktails in the bar – festooned as that is with thousands of fresh orchids and sleek businesswomen.

The Ritz was designed by Portuguese modernist Porfirio Pardal Monteiro in 1959 as a hotel fit for kings and visiting dignitaries and has been lovingly and sympathetically brought into full 21st-century opulence under the careful management of Four Seasons.

The hotel houses and displays the largest private collection of Portuguese art in the world in public areas designed by French interior designer Henri Samuel. One tapestry, a spectacular piece called The Four Seasons, was

Lisbon, Portugal

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on show when Issy Sharp visited as part of his European tour of luxury hotels, before he formulated the eponymous hotel group.

It does what it says on the tin. Ritz Four Seasons Lisbon is an all-season luxury hotel in a city with an annual average temperature of 15 degrees. The rooms mix the frills you expect with 5-stars and many individual touches that you might not – a to-die-for snack menu slipped within the TV’s leather remote case and tempting treats left in your room, a box of truffles one day or a plate of freshly-made pasteis (custard tarts) accompanied by a little shaker of ground cinnamon another.

The fresh orange juice is in a world (and paragraph) of its own.

You never feel like you are being sold to here. Staff are friendly, personal and attentive but never cloying. Like the engine in a high performance vehicle, they work hard at being unobtrusive. And the concierge team is tapped into the purr of the city. We ate in a range of upcoming eateries from the one Michelin-starred Belcanto, one of three restaurants run by Adria protégé Jose Avillez, to busy beer halls where you can gorge on the freshest seafood imaginable. The fado house we were recommended was off the tourist trail and never to be forgotten.

Their regularly updated app, Lisbon Through Four Season’s Eyes, similarly keeps close to what’s in and what’s out – whether that’s the

places to buy linen, silver and porcelain or the smartest golf course or casino, or which gallery has the best exhibition. There are similarly quirky and fun ideas here such as touring the backstreets in a

motorcycle sidecar or taking a blindfolded tour of the ancient Alfama district.

You are well-placed to experience Lisbon first-hand and first-rate. The hotel sits near the crown of the Avenida da Liberdade, the palm-lined avenue that houses Prada and Fly and connects the fashionable residential area of

Amoreiras with the bustling downtown zones of Chiado and Bairro Alto, where DJ decks and tasty caipirinhas beckon.

And that is the key to the success of this magnificent hotel and the people who make it what it is: it feels connected. Rather than sit smugly within a lap of luxury it knowingly opens its doors to let in the cultural melange that is Lisbon, the city. And knows when to help you shut it out.

That takes pressure off a traveller – and is a price well worth paying a little bit extra for.fourseasons.com/lisbon/

You are well-placed to experience Lisbon

f irst-hand and f irst-rate

LAP OF LUXURY: A vast art collection, rooftop running track and great lap pool awaits the visitor

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It’s not about having time.It’s about making time.

We can offer you the ultimate luxury of more time to spend any way you choose. Travel at times that suit you, to and from the most convenient airports, in control of every element of your journey.

Chapman Freeborn has been providing attentive yet discreet private air charter solutions for four decades. Our multilingual charter experts are available 24/7/365 worldwide, offering the full range of aircraft that can be carefully matched to your requirements.

For advice or a quote for your next trip, call us on +44 (0)1293 572888, email us at [email protected] or visit us at www.chapman-freeborn.com

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The 1970s belonged to Clay Regazzoni, Swiss racing car driver extraordinaire who won five Grands Prix in the sport’s most thrilling decade. As a driver for Ferrari, he enjoyed the perks of the job, and was particularly partial to the TAG Heuer Silverstone watch he sported after TAG Heuer was named the official timekeeper for the Ferrari team in that period. The Silverstone, launched in 1974, was the first automatic chronograph on the market and was stylish, sought-after and a Formula 1 favourite – much like its famous wearer.tagheuer.com

Speed and style

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MJ

CJ

CMJ

N

000_Ad.indd 1 02/12/2013 12:53