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The Best of Hawaii

There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-Pacificislands. The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really doesexist. Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gar-dens, cascading waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and volcanoes soaring 2 miles into the sky. And oh, those beaches—gold, red, black,and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The possibilities for adven-ture—and relaxation—are endless. Each of the six main islands is separate, dis-tinct, and infinitely complex. There’s far too much to see and do on any 2-weekvacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year after year.

Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and touristschlock. If you’re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmareof tourist traps selling shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cello-phane-skirted hula dancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour time-sharelecture before you get on that “free” sailing trip. That’s where this guide comesin. As a Hawaii resident, I can tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary.This book will steer you away from the crowded, the overrated, and the over-priced—and toward the best Hawaii has to offer. No matter what your budget,this guide will help ensure that every dollar is well spent.

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1 The Best Beaches• Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too

gorgeous to be real, this stretchalong the Windward Coast isone of Hawaii’s postcard-perfectbeaches—a mile of golden sand assoft as powdered sugar borderingtranslucent turquoise waters. Theyear-round calm waters are excel-lent for swimming, snorkeling,and kayaking. To complete thepicture are two tiny offshoreislands that function not only asscenic backdrops but also as birdsanctuaries. See p. 162.

• Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This1⁄2-mile-long crescent regularlywins kudos in the world’s toptravel magazines as the most beau-tiful beach in Hawaii—some con-sider it one of the most beautifulbeaches in the world. One look

and you’ll see why: Perfect cream-colored sand slopes down to crys-tal-clear waters that are great forswimming, snorkeling, and body-surfing in summer; come winter,waves thunder in like stampedingwild horses. The facilities for pic-nicking and camping are top-notch, and there’s plenty ofparking. See p. 289.

• Kapalua Beach (Maui): On anisland with many great beaches,Kapalua takes the prize. Thisgolden crescent with swayingpalms is protected from strongwinds and currents by two out-stretched lava-rock promontories.Its calm waters are perfect forsnorkeling, swimming, and kayak-ing. The beach borders theKapalua Bay Hotel, but it’s long

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enough for everyone to enjoy.Facilities include showers, rest-rooms, and lifeguards. See p. 418.

• Papohaku Beach (Molokai): Oneof Hawaii’s longest beaches, thesegold sands stretch on for some 3miles and are about as wide as afootball field. Offshore the oceanchurns mightily in winter, but thewaves die down in summer, mak-ing the calm waters inviting forswimming, picnics, beach walks,and sunset watching. See p. 490.

• Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): Thisgolden, palm-fringed beach offthe south coast of Lanai gentlyslopes down to the azure watersof a Marine Life ConservationDistrict, where clouds of tropicalfish flourish and spinner dolphinscome to play. A tide pool in thelava rocks defines one side of the

bay, while the other is lorded overby the Manele Bay Hotel, whichsits prominently on the hill above.Offshore you’ll find good swim-ming, snorkeling, and diving;onshore there’s a full complementof beach facilities, from restroomsto camping areas. See p. 520.

• Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed byverdant cliffs, this curvaceousNorth Shore beach has starred asParadise in many a movie. It’s easyto see why Hollywood loves HaenaBeach, with its grainy golden sandand translucent turquoise waters.Summer months bring calm watersfor swimming and snorkeling,while winter brings mighty wavesfor surfers. There are plenty offacilities on hand, including pic-nic tables, restrooms, and showers.See p. 584.

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2 The Best Island Experiences• Hitting the Beach: A beach is a

beach is a beach, right? Not inHawaii. With 132 islets, shoals,and reefs and a general coastline of750 miles, Hawaii has beaches inall different shapes, sizes, and col-ors, including black. The varietyon the six major islands is aston-ishing; you could go to a differentbeach every day for years and stillnot see them all. For the best of aspectacular bunch, see “The BestBeaches” above.

• Taking the Plunge: Don mask,fin, and snorkel and explore themagical world beneath the surface,where you’ll find exotic corals andkaleidoscopic clouds of tropicalfish; a sea turtle may even comeover to check you out. Can’t swim?That’s no excuse—take one of themany submarine tours offered byAtlantis Submarines (& 800/548-6262; www.go-atlantis.com)on Oahu, the Big Island, andMaui. Check out the “Watersports”

section in each island chapter formore information on all theseunderwater adventures.

• Meeting Local Folks: If you goto Hawaii and see only people likethe ones back home, you mightas well not have come. Extendyourself—leave your hotel, go outand meet the locals, and learnabout Hawaii and its people. Justsmile and say “Owzit?”—whichmeans “How is it?” (“It’s good,”is the usual response)—and you’reon your way to making a newfriend. Hawaii is remarkably cos-mopolitan; every ethnic groupin the world seems to be repre-sented here. There’s a huge diver-sity of food, culture, language,and customs.

• Feeling History Come Alive atPearl Harbor (Oahu): The UnitedStates could turn its back onWorld War II no longer afterDecember 7, 1941, when Japanesewarplanes bombed Pearl Harbor.

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Standing on the deck of the USSArizona Memorial (& 808/422-0561; www.nps.gov/usar)—theeternal tomb for the 1,177 sailorsand Marines trapped below whenthe battleship sank in just 9 min-utes—is a moving experienceyou’ll never forget. Also in PearlHarbor, you can visit the USSMissouri Memorial; World War IIcame to an end on the deck of this58,000-ton battleship with thesigning of the Japanese surrenderon September 2, 1945. See p. 190.

• Watching for Whales: If youhappen to be in Hawaii duringhumpback-whale season (roughlyDec–Apr), don’t miss the oppor-tunity to see these gentle giants. Ahost of boats—from small inflata-bles to high-tech, high-speed sail-ing catamarans—offer a range ofwhale-watching cruises on everyisland. One of our favorites isalong the Big Island’s Kona Coast,where Capt. Dan McSweeney’sYear-Round Whale-WatchingAdventures (& 808/322-0028;www.ilovewhales.com) takes youright to the whales year-round(pilot, sperm, false killer, melon-headed, pygmy killer, and beakedwhales call Hawaii home evenwhen humpbacks aren’t in resi-dence). A whale researcher formore than 25 years, Captain Danfrequently drops an underwatermicrophone or video camera intothe depths so you can listen towhale songs and maybe actuallysee what’s going on. See p. 293.

• Creeping Up to the Ooze (BigIsland): Kilauea volcano has beenadding land to the Big Island con-tinuously since 1983. If condi-tions are right, you can walk up tothe red-hot lava and see it oozealong, or you can stand at theshoreline and watch with awe as2,000°F (1,092°C) molten firepours into the ocean. You can also

take to the air in a helicopter andsee the Volcano Goddess’s workfrom above. See “Hawaii VolcanoesNational Park” under “Seeing theSights” in chapter 5.

• Going Big-Game Fishing off theKona Coast (Big Island): Don’tpass up the opportunity to try yourluck in the sportfishing capital ofthe world, where 1,000-poundmarlin are taken from the sea justabout every month of the year.Not looking to set a world record?Kona’s charter-boat captains spe-cialize in conservation and will beglad to tag and release any fish youangle, letting it go so someone elsecan have the fun of fighting a big-game fish tomorrow. See “Sport-fishing: The Hunt for Granders”under “Watersports” in chapter 5.

• Greeting the Rising Sun fromatop Haleakala (Maui): Bundleup in warm clothing, fill a ther-mos full of hot java, and drive upto the summit to watch the skyturn from inky black to mutedcharcoal as a small sliver of orangelight forms on the horizon. There’ssomething about standing at10,000 feet, breathing in the rar-efied air, and watching the firstrays of sun streak across the sky.This is a mystical experience ofthe first magnitude. See “Houseof the Sun: Haleakala NationalPark” under “Seeing the Sights” in chapter 6.

• Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa(Molokai): If you have only a dayto spend on Molokai, spend it ona mule. The trek from “topside”Molokai to Kalaupapa NationalHistoric Park (Father Damien’sworld-famous leper colony) withMolokai Mule Ride (& 800/567-7550; www.muleride.com) isa once-in-a-lifetime adventure.The cliffs are taller than 300-storyskyscrapers—but Buzzy Sproat’ssurefooted mules go up and down

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the narrow 2.9-mile trail daily, rainor shine, and he’s never lost a rideror a mount on the 26 switchbacks.Even if you can’t afford to mule orhelicopter in, don’t pass up theopportunity to see this hauntinglybeautiful peninsula. It takes noth-ing more than a pair of hikingboots, a permit (available at thetrailhead), and some grit to hikedown the trail. The views arebreathtaking: You’ll see the world’shighest sea cliffs and waterfallsplunging thousands of feet into theocean. See “The Legacy of FatherDamien: Kalaupapa National His-toric Park” under “Seeing theSights” in chapter 7.

• Taking a Day Trip to Lanai(Maui): If you’d like to visit Lanaibut have only a day to spare,consider taking a day trip. Trilogy(& 800/874-2666 or 808/661-4743; www.sailtrilogy.com) offersan all-day sailing, snorkeling, andwhale-watching adventure. Trilogyis the only outfitter with rights to

Hulopoe Beach, and the tripincludes a minivan tour of thelittle isle (pop. 3,500). See p. 423.You can also take Expedition’sLahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry(& 808/661-3756; www.go-lanai.com) from Maui to Lanai, thenrent a four-wheel-drive vehiclefrom Dollar Rent-A-Car (& 800/588-7808) for a day of backcoun-try exploring and beach fun. Seep. 424.

• Soaring Over the Na Pali Coast(Kauai): This is the only way to seethe spectacular, surreal beauty ofKauai. Your helicopter will dip lowover razor-thin cliffs, fluttering pastsparkling waterfalls, and swoopingdown into the canyons and valleysof the fabled Na Pali Coast. Theonly problem is that there’s toomuch beauty to absorb, and it allgoes by in a rush. See “HelicopterRides over Waimea Canyon & theNa Pali Coast” under “Seeing theSights” in chapter 9.


3 The Best of Natural Hawaii• Volcanoes: The entire island chain

is made of volcanoes; don’t missthe opportunity to see one. OnOahu the entire family can hike tothe top of the ancient volcano,world-famous Diamond Head(see “Diamond Head Crater”under “Nature Hikes,” in chapter4). At the other end of the spec-trum is fire-breathing Kilauea atHawaii Volcanoes National Park,on the Big Island, where you canget an up-close-and-personal expe-rience with the red-hot lava ooze(see “Hawaii Volcanoes NationalPark” under “Seeing the Sights” inchapter 5). On Maui, HaleakalaNational Park provides a bird’s-eyeview into a long-dormant volcaniccrater (see “House of the Sun:

Haleakala National Park” under“Seeing the Sights” in chapter 6).

• Waterfalls: Rushing waterfallsthundering downward intosparkling freshwater pools aresome of Hawaii’s most beautifulnatural wonders. If you’re on theBig Island, stop by Rainbow Falls(p. 324) in Hilo or the spectacular442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 319),just outside the city. On Maui theRoad to Hana offers numerousviewing opportunities; at the endof the drive, you’ll find OheoGulch (also known as the SevenSacred Pools), with some of themost dramatic and accessiblewaterfalls on the islands (see“Tropical Haleakala: Oheo Gulchat Kipahulu” under “Seeing the

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Sights” in chapter 6). Kauai isloaded with waterfalls, especiallyalong the North Shore and in theWailua area, where you’ll find 40-foot Opaekaa Falls, probablythe best-looking drive-up waterfallon Kauai (see “Wailua River StatePark” under “Seeing the Sights” inchapter 9). With scenic mountainpeaks in the background and arestored Hawaiian village on thenearby riverbanks, the OpaekaaFalls are what the tourist-bureaufolks call an eye-popping photo-op.

• Gardens: The islands are redolentwith the sweet scent of flowers.For a glimpse of the full breadthand beauty of Hawaii’s spectacularrange of tropical flora, we suggestspending an afternoon at a lushgarden. On Oahu, amid the high-rises of downtown Honolulu, theleafy oasis of Foster BotanicalGarden (p. 193) showcases 24native Hawaiian trees and the laststand of several rare trees, includ-ing an East African whose whiteflowers bloom only at night. Onthe Big Island, Liliuokalani Gar-dens (p. 323), the largest formalJapanese garden this side ofTokyo, resembles a postcard fromAsia, with bonsai, carp ponds,pagodas, and even a moon-gatebridge. At Maui’s Kula BotanicalGarden (p. 323), you can take aleisurely self-guided stroll throughmore than 700 native and exoticplants, including orchids, proteas,and bromeliads. On lush Kauai,Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens(p. 451), on some 240 acres, issprinkled with some 70 life-size(some larger than life-size) whim-sical bronze statues, hidden off thebeaten path of the North Shore.

• Marine Life Conservation Areas:Nine underwater parks are spreadacross Hawaii, most notably

Waikiki Beach (p. 159) andHanauma Bay (p. 159) on Oahu;the Big Island’s Kealakekua Bay(p. 296); Molokini, just off thecoast of Maui (see “Watersports”in chapter 6); and Lanai’s Maneleand Hulopoe bays (see “Beaches”in chapter 8). Be sure to bringsnorkel gear to at least one of thesewonderful places during yourvacation here.

• Garden of the Gods (Lanai): Outon Lanai’s north shore lies the ulti-mate rock garden: a rugged, bar-ren, beautiful place full of rocksstrewn by volcanic forces andmolded by the elements into avariety of shapes and colors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers, andyellows. Scientists use phrasessuch as “ongoing posterosionalevent” or “plain and simple bad-lands” to describe the desolate,windswept place. The ancientHawaiians, however, consideredthe Garden of the Gods to be anentirely supernatural phenome-non. Natural badlands or mysticalgarden? Take a four-wheel-drivetrip out here and decide for your-self. See p. 525.

• The Grand Canyon of thePacific—Waimea Canyon(Kauai): This valley, known for itsreddish lava beds, reminds every-one who sees it of Arizona’s GrandCanyon. Kauai’s version is burst-ing with ever-changing color, justlike its namesake, but it’s smaller—only a mile wide, 3,567 feet deep,and 12 miles long. All thisgrandeur was caused by a massiveearthquake that sent all thestreams flowing into a single river,which then carved this pictur-esque canyon. You can stop by theroad and look at it, hike downinto it, or swoop through it byhelicopter. See p. 592.

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4 The Best of Underwater Hawaii• Hanauma Bay (Oahu): It can get

crowded, but for clear, warm,calm waters, an abundance of fishthat are so friendly they’ll swimright up to your face mask, abeautiful setting, and easy access,there’s no place like HanaumaBay. Just wade in waist-deep andlook down to see more than 50species of reef and inshore fish.Snorkelers hug the safe, shallowinner bay—it’s like swimming inan outdoor aquarium. Seriousdivers shoot “the slot,” a passagethrough the reef, to enter Witch’sBrew, a turbulent cove. See p. 159.

• Kahaluu Beach (Big Island): Thecalm, shallow waters of Kahaluuare perfect for beginning snorkel-ers or those who are unsure oftheir swimming abilities and wantthe comfort of being able to standup at any time. The sunlightthrough the shallow waters casts adazzling spotlight on the colorfulsea life and coral formations. If youlisten closely, you can actually hearthe parrotfish feeding. See p. 288.

• Kealakekua Bay (Big Island):Mile-wide Kealakekua Bay, at thefoot of massive U-shaped seacliffs, is rich with marine life,snorkelers, and history. A whiteobelisk marks the spot where, in1778, the great British navigator

Capt. James Cook, who chartedmost of the Pacific, was killed byHawaiians. The bay itself is amarine sanctuary that teems withschools of polychromatic tropicalfish. See p. 296.

• Molokini (Maui): The islet ofMolokini is shaped like a crescentmoon that fell from the sky. Itsshallow concave side serves as asheltering backstop against seacurrents for tiny tropical fish; itsopposite side is a deep-water cliffinhabited by spiny lobsters, morayeels, and white-tipped sharks.Neophyte snorkelers shouldreport to the concave side, experi-enced scuba divers the other. Theclear water and abundant marinelife make this islet off the MakenaCoast one of Hawaii’s most popu-lar dive spots, so expect crowds.See “Watersports” in chapter 6.

• Kee Beach (Kauai): Where theroad ends on the North Shore,you’ll find a dandy little reddish-gold–sand beach almost too beau-tiful to be real. It borders areef-protected cove at the foot offluted volcanic cliffs. Swimmingand snorkeling are safe inside thereef, where long-nosed butterflyfish flitter about and schools oftaape (bluestripe snapper) swarmover the coral. See p. 584.

5 The Best Golf Courses• Mauna Kea’s Beach and Hapuna

Courses (Big Island; & 808/882-5400 for Beach Course, & 808/882-3000 for Hapuna Course):The Mauna Kea Golf Course(p. 304), located out on the KohalaCoast, is everyone’s old favorite.One of the first fields of play tobe carved out of the black lava,the dramatic, always-challenging,par-72, 18-hole championship

course is still one of Hawaii’s topthree. The new Arnold Palmer/EdSeay–designed Hapuna GolfCourse (p. 303) rests in the rollingfoothills above Hapuna BeachPrince Hotel and provides a mem-orable links-style golf experiencealong with one of the best views ofthis unusual coast. See p. 251.

• Mauna Lani Frances I’i BrownChampionship Courses (Big

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Island; & 808/885-6655): MaunaLani’s two resort courses, Northand South, feature a combinationof oceanfront and interior lava-lined holes; both offer wond-erful scenery accompanied bystrategic, championship-level golf.See p. 304.

• Kapalua Resort Courses (Maui;& 808/669-8044): Kapalua isprobably the best nationally knowngolf resort in Hawaii, thanks to thePGA Kapalua Mercedes Champi-onship played here each January.The Bay and Village courses arevintage Arnold Palmer designs,while the new Plantation Courseis a strong Ben Crenshaw/BillCoore design. See p. 436.

• Wailea Courses (Maui; & 808/875-7450): On Maui’s sunbakedsouth shore stands Wailea Resort,the hotspot for golf in the islands.Three resort courses complementa string of beachfront hotels: TheBlue Course is an Arthur JackSnyder design, while Robert TrentJones Jr. is the mastermind behindthe Emerald and Gold courses. Allthree boast outstanding views ofthe Pacific and the mid-Hawaiianislands. See p. 437.

• The Lanai Courses (Lanai;& 808/565-GOLF): For qualityand seclusion, nothing in Hawaiican touch Lanai’s two resortofferings. The Experience at

Koele (p. 524), designed by TedRobinson and Greg Norman,and the Challenge at Manele(p. 524), a wonderful Jack Nick-laus effort with ocean views fromevery hole, both rate amongHawaii’s best courses. See p. 524.

• Poipu Bay Golf Course (Kauai;& 808/742-8711): On Kauai’sflat, dry south shore is a 210-acre,links-style course, designed byRobert Trent Jones Jr. The course,which hosts the PGA Tour’s GrandSlam of Golf, is not only sceni-cally spectacular but is also a lot offun to play. A flock of nativeHawaiian nene geese frequentsthe course’s lakes, and you canoften see whales, monk seals, andgreen sea turtles along the shore.See p. 598.

• Princeville Golf Club (Kauai;& 800/826-1105): Here you’llfind 45 of the best tropical holesof golf in the world, all the workof Robert Trent Jones Jr. Theyrange along green bluffs belowsharp mountain peaks and offerstunning views in every direction.One of the top three courses inHawaii, the 18-hole Prince pro-vides a round of golf few ever for-get; it winds along 390 acres ofscenic tableland bisected by tropi-cal jungles, waterfalls, streams,and ravines. See p. 598.

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6 The Best Ways to Immerse Yourself in Hawaiian Culture• Experiencing the Hula: For a

real, authentic hula experienceon Oahu, check out the BishopMuseum (p. 185), which hasexcellent performances on week-days, or head to the Halekulani’sHouse Without a Key (p. 165) atsunset to watch the enchantingKanoelehua Miller dance beauti-ful hula under a century-old kiawe

tree. The first week after Easterbrings Hawaii’s biggest and mostprestigious hula extravaganza, theMerrie Monarch Hula Festival(p. 348), at Hilo on the Big Island;tickets sell out by January 30, soreserve early. In May there’s theMolokai Ka Hula Piko (p. 490),at Molokai’s Papohaku BeachPark, a wonderful daylong festival

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that celebrates the hula on theisland where it was born.

• Watching the Ancient HawaiianSport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu):From February to September, onweekday evenings and weekenddays, hundreds of canoe paddlersgather at Ala Wai Canal and prac-tice the Hawaiian sport of canoepaddling. Find a comfortable spotat Ala Wai Park, next to the canal,and watch this ancient sport cometo life. See chapter 4.

• Attending a Hawaiian-LanguageChurch Service (Oahu): Kawaia-hao Church (& 808/522-1333)is the Westminster Abbey ofHawaii. The vestibule is linedwith portraits of the Hawaiianmonarchy, many of whom werecrowned in this very building. Thecoral church is a perfect setting inwhich to experience an all-Hawai-ian service, held every Sunday at10:30am, complete with Hawai-ian song. Admission is free; letyour conscience be your guide asto a donation. See p. 189.

• Buying a Lei in Chinatown(Oahu): There’s actually a host ofcultural sights and experiences tobe had in Honolulu’s Chinatown.Wander through this several-square-block area with its jumbleof exotic shops offering herbs,Chinese groceries, and acupunc-ture services. Before you leave, besure to check out the lei sellers onMaunakea Street (near N. HotelSt.), where Hawaii’s finest leis gofor as little as $4. If you’d like a lit-tle guidance, you can follow ourwalking tour on p. 198.

• Listening to Old-Fashioned“Talk Story” with HawaiianSong and Dance (Big Island):Once a month, under a full moon,“Twilight at Kalahuipua’a,” acelebration of the Hawaiian

culture that includes storytelling,singing, and dancing, takes placeocean-side at Mauna Lani BayResort (& 808/885-6622; www.maunalaniculture.org/twilight/).It hearkens back to another time inHawaii when family and neighborswould gather on back porches tosing, dance, and “talk story.” Seethe box “Old-Style HawaiianEntertainment” in chapter 5.

• Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s MostSacred Temple (Big Island): Onthe Kohala Coast, where KingKamehameha the Great was born,stands Hawaii’s oldest, largest, andmost sacred religious site: the1,500-year-old Mookini Heiau,used by kings to pray and offerhuman sacrifices. This massivethree-story stone temple, dedi-cated to Ku, the Hawaiian god ofwar, was erected in A.D. 480. It’ssaid that each stone was passedfrom hand to hand from PololuValley, 14 miles away, by 18,000men who worked from sunset tosunrise. Best way to see this sacredsite is to help out with the monthlycleanups when the Kahuna Nui,Momi Mo’okini Lum, is on-site.See p. 316.

• Hunting for Petroglyphs (BigIsland): Archaeologists are stilluncertain exactly what theseancient rock carvings—the major-ity of which are found in the 233-acre Puako Petroglyph Archae-ological District, near Mauna LaniResort on the Kohala Coast—mean. The best time to hunt forthese intricate depictions of ancientlife is either early in the morningor late afternoon, when the angleof the sun lets you see the formsclearly. See “Kohala Coast Petro-glyphs” under “Seeing the Sights”in chapter 5.


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T H E B E S T W AY S T O I M M E R S E YO U R S E L F I N H A W A I I A N C U LT U R E 13

The Welcoming Lei

There’s nothing like a lei. The stunning tropical beauty of the delicategarland, the deliciously sweet fragrance of the blossoms, the sensualway the flowers curl softly around your neck. There’s no doubt aboutit: Getting lei’d in Hawaii is a sensuous experience.

Leis are much more than just a decorative necklace of flowers;they’re also one of the nicest ways to say hello, good-bye, congratula-tions, I salute you, my sympathies are with you, or I love you. The cus-tom of giving leis can be traced back to Hawaii’s very roots; accordingto chants, the first lei was given by Hiiaka, the sister of the volcanogoddess Pele, who presented Pele with a lei of lehua blossoms on abeach in Puna.

During ancient times, leis given to alii (high-ranking chiefs) wereaccompanied by a bow, since it was kapu (forbidden) for a commonerto raise his arms higher than the king’s head. The presentation of a kisswith a lei didn’t come about until World War II; it’s generally attrib-uted to an entertainer who kissed an officer on a dare and thenquickly presented him with her lei, saying it was an old Hawaiian cus-tom. It wasn’t then, but it sure caught on fast.

Lei making is a tropical art form. All leis are fashioned by hand in avariety of traditional patterns; some are sewn with hundreds of tinyblooms or shells, or bits of ferns and leaves. Some are twisted, somebraided, some strung; all are presented with love. Every island has itsown special flower lei—the lei of the land, so to speak. On Oahu thechoice is ilima, a small orange flower. Big Islanders prefer the lehua, alarge, delicate red puff. On Maui it’s the lokelani, a small rose; onKauai, it’s the mokihana, a fragrant green vine and berry; on Molokaiit’s the kukui, the white blossom of a candlenut tree; and on Lanai it’sthe kaunaoa, a bright yellow moss. Residents of Niihau use the island’sabundant seashells to make leis that were once prized by royalty andare now worth a small fortune.

Leis are available at all of the islands’ airports. Other places to getwonderful, inexpensive leis are the half-dozen lei shops on MaunakeaStreet in Honolulu’s Chinatown, and Greene Acres Leis (& 808/329-2399), off Kaimiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision,across from the Kona International Airport on the Big Island. If youplan ahead, you can also arrange to have a lei-greeter meet you andyour travel party as you deplane. Reliable companies that can greetyou at Honolulu International Airport on Oahu, Kona Airport on theBig Island, and Lihue Airport on Kauai are Greeters of Hawaii (& 800/366-8559, 808/836-0161, or 808/836-3246). For lei greeting at the Kahu-lui Airport on Maui, call Ali’i Leis (& 808/877-7088).

Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: They’re given in themoment and their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment,but when they fade, their spirit of aloha lives on. Welcome to Hawaii!

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• Exploring Puuhonua O Honau-nau National Historical Park(Big Island): This sacred site on theSouth Kona Coast was once a placeof refuge and a revered place ofrejuvenation. You can walk thesame consecrated grounds wherepriests once conducted holy cere-monies and glimpse the ancientway of life in pre-contact Hawaiiin the re-created 180-acre village.See p. 294.

• Visiting the Most Hawaiian Isle:A time capsule of old Hawaii,Molokai allows you to experience

real Hawaiian life in its mostunsullied form. The island’s peoplehave woven the cultural values ofancient times into modern life. Inaddition to this rich community,you’ll find the magnificent naturalwonders it so cherishes: Hawaii’shighest waterfall, its greatest col-lection of fish ponds, and theworld’s tallest sea cliffs, as well assand dunes, coral reefs, rainforests,and gloriously empty beaches.The island is pretty much thesame Molokai of generations ago.See chapter 7.


7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts• Halekulani (Oahu; & 800/

367-2343; www.halekulani.com):When price is no object, this isreally the only place to stay. Anoasis of calm amid the buzz, thisbeach hotel is the finest Waikikihas to offer (heck, we think it’s thefinest in the state). Even if youdon’t stay here, pop by for a sunsetmai tai to hear Sonny Kamehelesing the old hapa-haole tunes ofthe 1930s and 1940s while a lovelyhula dancer sways to the music.See p. 107.

• Kahala Mandarin OrientalHawaii (Oahu; & 800/367-2525;www.mandarinoriental.com):This palatial ocean-side resort hasthe grace and elegance of a softer,gentler time, when all of Hawaiimoved at a more leisurely pace. Itsold Hawaii spirit is accented withpan-Asian touches and all the con-veniences you could wish for,including a fabulously secludedbeach. And the location, 10 min-utes from Waikiki in the quiet residential community of Kahala,rounds out the get-away-from-it-allvibe and keeps everything close athand at the same time. See p. 124.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650; www.turtlebayresort.

com): After a $35 million renova-tion, this once sterling hotel isback. The resort is spectacular: anhour’s drive from Waikiki, but eonsaway in its country feeling. Sittingon 808 acres, this place is loadedwith activities and 5 miles ofshoreline with secluded white-sandcoves. All the rooms have greatviews, but if you can afford it,book the separate beach cottages.Positioned right on the ocean (theviews alone are worth the price),the 42 bungalows have been reno-vated (hardwood floors, posterbeds with feather comforters) andhave their own check-in and pri-vate concierge; it’s like a hotelwithin a hotel. See p. 128.

• Kona Village Resort (Big Island;& 800/367-5290; www.konavillage.com): This is the best placein Hawaii if you want to stay ina vintage Polynesian village–styleresort. The sublimely peaceful,eclectic Polynesian village, withthatched huts and various stylesof Pacific architecture clusteredby the big blue ocean, stands on82 coastal acres of palms and trop-ical flowers. The authenticity andisolation of this oasis revivewounded urban souls, who swing

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in hammocks, splash like childrenin the bay, actually smile whenspoken to, and move slowly withthe calm and grace that comefrom great leisure. Why anyoneever leaves is a wonder. See p. 244.

• Four Seasons Resort Hualalai atHistoric Kaupulehu (Big Island;& 888/340-5662; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): Privatepools, unimpeded ocean views,excellent food, and a new 18-holechampionship golf course—whatmore could any mortal want? Thisnew low-impact, high-ticket hide-away under the dormant HualalaiVolcano ups the ante with its resi-dential resort of two-story bunga-lows clustered around five seasideswimming pools on a black lagoon.See p. 242.

• Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (Maui;& 800/262-8440; www.ritzcarlton.com): For location, style,and hospitality, this is perhapsthe best Ritz anywhere. Thebreezy grand hotel stands on thecoast below the picturesque WestMaui Mountains, overlooking thePacific and Molokai across thechannel. The natural setting, onan old coastal pineapple planta-tion, is the picture of tranquillity.The service is legendary, the golfcourses daunting, and the nearbybeaches perfect for snorkeling,diving, and simply relaxing. Seep. 374.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui atWailea (Maui; & 800/334-MAUI;www.fourseasons.com/maui):This is the ultimate beach hotelfor latter-day royals, with excellentcuisine, spacious rooms, graciousservice, and Wailea Beach, one ofMaui’s best gold-sand strips, outthe front door. Every guest roomhas at least a partial ocean viewfrom a private lanai. The luxury

suites, as big as some Honolulucondos, are full of marble anddeluxe appointments. See p. 382.

• Fairmont Kea Lani Maui (Maui;& 800/659-4100; www.kealani.com): This is the place to get yourmoney’s worth; for the price of ahotel room, you get an entiresuite—plus a few extras. Each unitin this all-suite luxury hotel has akitchenette, a living room withentertainment center and sofabed (great if you have the kids intow), a marble wet bar, an oversizemarble bathroom with separateshower big enough for a party,a spacious bedroom, and a largelanai that overlooks the pools,lawns, and white-sand beach. Seep. 381.

• The Lodge at Koele (Lanai;& 800/321-4666; www.lanai-resorts.com): The Lodge, as folkshere call it, stands in a 21-acregrove of Norfolk Island pines at1,700 feet above sea level, 8 milesinland from any beach. The 102-room resort resembles a grandEnglish country estate. Inside,heavy timbers, beamed ceilings,and the two huge stone fireplacesof the Great Hall complete thelook. The guest rooms continuethe English theme with four-poster beds, sitting areas (com-plete with window seats), flowerywallpaper, formal writing desks,and luxury bathrooms with over-size tubs. There are plenty ofactivities here and at the sisterresort, the Manele Bay Resort,down the hill on the ocean. Seep 514.

• Hyatt Regency Kauai Resortand Spa (Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT; www.kauai.hyatt.com):This Art Deco beach hotel recallsHawaii in the 1920s—before thecrash—when gentlemen in blue

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blazers and ladies in summerfrocks came to the islands to learnto surf and play the ukulele. Thehotel’s architecture and location,on the sunny side of Kauai, makethis the island’s best hotel. Thebeach is a bit too rough for swim-ming, but the saltwater swimmingpool is the biggest on the island.An old-fashioned reading room bythe sea houses club chairs, bil-liards, and a bar well stocked withcognac and port. Golf, horsebackriding, and the shops of Koloa, aboutiqued plantation town, arenearby diversions. See p. 543.

• Princeville Resort Kauai(Kauai; & 800/826-4400; www.princeville.com): This palace ofgreen marble and sparkling chan-deliers recalls Hawaii’s monarchyperiod of the 19th century. It’s setin one of the most remarkablelocations in the world, on a cliffbetween the crystal-blue waters ofHanalei Bay and steepled moun-tains; you arrive on the ninth floorand go down to the beach. Opu-lent rooms with magnificent viewsand all the activities of Princevilleand Hanalei make this one ofHawaii’s finest resorts. See p. 555.


8 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Doubletree Alana Waikiki (Oahu;

& 800/222-TREE; www.doubletreealana.com): This hotel, locatedwithin walking distance of WaikikiBeach, offers beautiful, comfort-able rooms and the kind of promptservice that you usually get only attwice the price (rack rates herestart at $199). Downstairs is theexcellent cuisine of Chef PhillipPadovani in Padovani’s Restaurantand Wine Bar. See p. 105.

• Santa’s by the Sea (Oahu; & 800/262-9912; www.bestbnb.com):Setting, price ($150 a night), andstyle make this a great choice ifyou plan to see Oahu’s northshore. Santa’s is one of the fewNorth Shore B&Bs right on thebeach—and not just any beach,but the famous Banzai Pipeline.You can go from your bed to thesand in less than 30 seconds—it’sthe perfect spot to watch the sunrise over the Pacific. The impecca-ble one-bedroom units featurefinely crafted woodwork and baywindows. See p. 127.

• Holualoa Inn (Big Island; & 800/392-1812; www.holualoainn.com): The quiet, secluded settingof this B&B—40 pastoral acres

just off the main drag of the artsyvillage of Holualoa, on the slopesat 1,350 feet above Kailua-Kona—provides stunning panoramic viewsof the entire coast. This contem-porary 7,000-square-foot Hawai-ian home built of golden woodshas six private suites (starting at$175) and window-walls that rollback to embrace the gardens andviews. Cows graze on the bucolicpastures below the garden Jacuzziand pool, and the coffee planta-tion on the property is the sourceof the morning brew. See p. 247.

• Kona Tiki Hotel (Big Island;& 808/329-1425; www.konatiki.com): Right on the ocean, awayfrom the hustle and bustle ofdowntown Kailua-Kona, is one ofthe hottest budget deals in Hawaii:tastefully decorated rooms withprivate lanais overlooking theocean, starting at just $61 a night!Although it’s called a hotel, thissmall, family-run operation ismore like a large B&B, withplenty of friendly conversationaround the pool at the morningcontinental breakfast buffet. Seep. 246.

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• Waipio Wayside B&B Inn (BigIsland; & 800/833-8849; www.waipiowayside.com): Jackie Hornerenovated this 1938 Hamakuasugar supervisor’s home—nestledamong fruit trees and surroundedwith sweet-smelling ginger, fragileorchids, and blooming birds ofparadise—and transformed it intoa gracious B&B. Just minutesfrom the Waipio Valley Lookoutand Honokaa village, this comfyfive-bedroom house abounds withthoughtful touches, such as ahelp-yourself tea-and-cookies barwith 26 different kinds of tea.Jackie’s friendly hospitality andexcellent gourmet breakfasts reallyround out the experience. Roomsstart at $95 for two. See p. 257.

• Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono(Maui; & 800/305-4899; www.mauiinn.com): This 1924 formerplantation manager’s home, lov-ingly restored, offers a genuine oldHawaii experience. The theme isHawaii of the 1920s and 1930s,with decor, design, and landscap-ing to match. The spacious roomsare gorgeously outfitted withexotic ohia-wood floors, highceilings, and traditional Hawaiianquilts. A full gourmet breakfastis served on the enclosed backlanai or, if you prefer, deliveredto your room. The inn is locatedin the old historic area ofWailuku, about 10 to 15 minutesto the beach. Once you settle in,you may not want to leave—withrooms starting at $120 for a dou-ble, you can afford to stay a while.See p. 361.

• Dunbar Beachfront Cottages(Molokai; & 800/673-0520;www.molokai-beachfront-cottages.com): Each of these green-and-white plantation-style cottages sitson its own secluded beach—you’ll

feel like you’re on your own pri-vate island. Impeccable decor, amagical setting, and reasonablerates ($140 for two) make thesecottages a must-stay. See p. 485.

• Hotel Lanai (Lanai; & 800/795-7211; www.hotellanai.com):Lanai’s only budget lodging is asimple, down-home, plantation-era relic that has recently beenLaura Ashley–ized. The HotelLanai is homey, funky, and fun—and, best of all, a real bargain(starting at $105 for two) com-pared to its ritzy neighbors. Seep. 515.

• Victoria Place (Kauai; & 808/332-9300; www.hshawaii.com/kvp/victoria): This is our favoritebed-and-breakfast on Kauai. Thereason to stay here? Two words:Edee Seymour. It’s easy to see whyshe won the Kauai Chamber ofCommerce’s Aloha Spirit Award.Her motto is “We pamper!” Shelavishes her guests with attentionand aloha. Her spacious, sky-lit,U-shaped house wraps around theswimming pool and garden. Mostof her guests are returnees. Asa couple from Germany told us,“Once you stay with Edee, everyplace else is cold and indifferent.”Fantastic rates start at $90. Seep. 549.

• Aloha Sunrise Inn/Aloha SunsetInn (Kauai; & 888/828-1008;www.kauaisunrise.com): Hiddenon the North Shore, these twounique cottages are nestled on aquiet 7-acre farm. They come fullyfurnished with all the great videosyou’ve been meaning to watch andan excellent CD library. They’reclose enough to activities, restau-rants, and shopping, yet isolatedenough to feel the peace and quietof old Hawaii. Priced at $125 to$135. See p. 557.

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9 The Best Places to Stay with the Kids• Hilton Hawaiian Village

(Oahu; & 800/HILTONS; www.hawaiianvillage.hilton.com): TheRainbow Express is Hilton’s year-round daily program of activitiesfor children ages 5 to 12. The pro-gram costs $50 for a full day,including lunch, and offers a widerange of educational and funactivities. Everything about thishotel is kid-friendly, from thewildlife parading about thegrounds to the submarine divesoffered just out front. In three ofthe resort’s restaurants, kids ages4 to 11 eat free. See p. 103.

• J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort &Spa in the Ko Olina Resort(Oahu; & 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): This resort on Oahu’svirgin leeward coast is a haven ofrelaxation and tropical fun fortravelers of all ages. The KeikiBeachcomber Club, for childrenages 5 to 12, is available daily.Activities (9am–3pm) range fromkite-flying, tide-pool exploration,and snorkeling to Hawaiian cul-tural activities. The cost is $58 perchild. See p. 128.

• Kona Village Resort (BigIsland; & 800/367-5290; www.konavillage.com): This is a parent’sdream: custom-designed programsto entertain your kids, from tots toteenagers, from dawn to well afterdusk, all at no charge. There’s evena dinner seating for children, soMom and Dad can enjoy an inti-mate dinner for two later in theevening. See p. 244.

• The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii(Big Island; & 800/845-9905;www.fairmont.com): The KeikiAloha program, for kids 5 to 12years old, features supervisedactivities from watersports toHawaiian cultural games for $60for the full day. The resort has

some great money-saving deals;for example, children 5 and undereat free at various restaurants inthe resort. See p. 254.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui atWailea (Maui; & 800/334-MAUI;www.fourseasons.com/maui): Themost kid-friendly hotel on Mauinot only offers a complimentarykids program year-round and aneveryday activities center (daily9am–5pm), but also makes thechildren feel welcome with extrassuch as complimentary milk andcookies on their first day and chil-dren’s menus at all resort restau-rants and even from room service.See p. 382.

• Hyatt Regency Maui (Maui;& 800/233-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com): The Camp Hyatt pro-gram, which takes children asyoung as 5 years old (and as oldas 12), operates daily from 9am to3pm and offers young guests arange of activities, from “OlympicGames” to a scavenger hunt. Thecost is $60 for a full day. Seep. 365.

• Ke Nani Kai Resort (Molokai;& 800/535-0085; www.marcresorts.com): This place is greatfor families, who will appreciatethe space and quiet. These largeapartments are set up for full-timeliving with real kitchens, washer/dryers, VCRs, attractive furnish-ings, and breezy lanais. Spendyour time at the huge pool, thevolleyball court, the tennis courts,or the beach—just a brief walkaway. See p. 482.

• Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort andSpa (Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT;www.kauai.hyatt.com): In addi-tion to the Camp Hyatt program(for kids ages 3–12), it’s the col-lection of swimming pools—freshwater and salt, with slides,

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waterfalls, and secret lagoons—that makes this oceanfront Hyatta real kids’ paradise. During thesummer months and the holidayseason, there’s Rock Hyatt, anactivity room for teens to gatherin and play electronic games.Summertime also boasts FamilyFun Theatre Nights, when thewhole family can enjoy a showingof one of the more than 400 moviesfilmed on Kauai. See p. 543.

• Kauai Coconut Beach Resort(Kauai; & 800/22-ALOHA): ThisCoconut Coast resort has anexcellent deal for families: Notonly do kids 17 and under stayfree, but those 11 and youngeralso eat free when dining with agrown-up. The resort is situatedon 101⁄2 acres fronting WaipouliBeach, right next door to theCoconut Marketplace, so kids haveplenty of room to play. See p. 552.

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10 The Best Resort Spas• Spa Olakino & Salon, Waikiki

Beach Marriott (Oahu; 800/367-5370; www.marriottwaikiki.com):This boutique spa offers a uniqueexperience in a state that has someof the best spas in the world. Asyou enter the second-floor spa,you feel as though you havestepped into a rainforest with aprofusion of plants and lava rock,then as you turn the corner—sur-prise! The windows look directlyout onto Waikiki Beach. The spa“menu” of treatments is one of themost enchanting we have seen,designed by hair salon specialistPaul Brown. This is a “must-do”for spa aficionados. See p. 120.

• Ihilani Spa at the J. W. MarriottIhilani Resort & Spa (Oahu;& 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, thisfreestanding 35,000-square-footfacility is dedicated to the tradi-tional spa definition of “health bywater.” This modern, multistoriedspa, filled with floor-to-ceilingglass looking out on green tropicalplants, combines Hawaiian prod-ucts with traditional therapies toproduce some of the best watertreatments in the state. You’ll alsofind a fitness center, tennis courts,and a bevy of aerobic and stretch-ing classes. See p. 128.

• SpaHalekulani, Halekulani hotel(Oahu; & 808/923-2311; www.

halekulani.com): Waikiki’s firstspa to explore the healing tradi-tions of the Pacific islands, as wellas Hawaii. Like everything else atthe top-rated Halekulani hotel,the spa is truly a “heavenly” expe-rience from the time you step intothe elegantly appointed, intimatespa and experience the foot mas-sage to the last whiff of fragrantmaile, their signature scent. Spaconnoisseurs should try some-thing unique, like the PolynesianNonu, a Samoan-inspired massageusing stones. See p. 107.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650; www.turtlebayresort.com): This new, Zen-like spa posi-tioned on the ground floor facingthe ocean has six treatment rooms,a meditation waiting area, an out-door workout area, plus completefitness center and a private eleva-tor to the rooms on the secondfloor, reserved for guests gettingspa treatments. See p. 128.

• Hualalai Sports Club & Spa atFour Seasons Resort Hualalali(Big Island; & 888/340-5662;www.fourseasons.com/hualalai):It’s easy to see why some 6,000Condé Nast readers voted this13,000-square-foot facility theirfavorite resort spa. Five of its 16treatment rooms are thatched huts(with bamboo privacy screens) nes-tled into a tropical garden. This is

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the place to come to be pampered.The fitness facilities, classes, andadventure activities are all excel-lent, but the attentive service anddreamy facilities are what you willremember long after your vaca-tion. See p. 242.

• Kohala Spa at the HiltonWaikoloa Village (Big Island;& 800/HILTONS; www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com): The BigIsland’s oldest (since 1989) andlargest (25,000 sq. ft.) spa hassomething for everyone, including33 treatment rooms, 50 classes,and a variety of sports rangingfrom racquetball to indoor rockclimbing. Spend the day luxuriat-ing in the lava whirlpool, steamroom, and sauna before or afteryour treatment. See p. 255.

• Mauna Lani Spa (Big Island;& 808/881-7922; www.maunalani.com): The Mauna Lani Resorthas opened a one-of-a-kind spa,which not only utilizes traditionaltreatment centers in a relaxingindoor atmosphere but also ninestand-alone Hawaiian thatchedhuts (totaling some 15,000 sq. ft.in size) with cutting-edge, Hawai-ian-influenced treatments. One ofthe spa’s unique new treatments isthe lava sauna, an outdoor, open-air sauna using black lava rocksand warm, black sand as a naturalsauna. No other spa in the statehas this unusual treatment, whichincorporates mud clay, coolingwater, and soothing lotion. Seep. 252.

• The Health Centre at theFour Seasons Resort Maui(Maui; & 800/334-MAUI; www.fourseasons.com/maui): Imaginethe sound of the waves rolling onWailea Beach as you are sooth-ingly massaged in the privacy ofyour cabana, tucked into thebeachside foliage. This is the placeto be absolutely spoiled. Yes, there’s

an excellent workout area andtons of great classes, but their spe-cialty is hedonistic indulgence.See p. 382.

• Spa Grande at the Grand WaileaResort (Maui; & 800/888-6100;www.grandwailea.com): This isHawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000square feet, with 40 treatmentrooms. The spa incorporates thebest of the Old World (romanticceiling murals, larger-than-lifeRoman-style sculptures, mam-moth Greek columns, huge Euro-pean tubs); the finest Easterntraditions (a full Japanese-styletraditional bath and various exotictreatments from India); and thelure of the islands (tropical foliage,ancient Hawaiian treatments, andisland products). This spa haseverything from a top fitness cen-ter to a menu of classes and is con-stantly on the cutting edge of thelatest trends. See p. 382.

• Spa Moana at the Hyatt RegencyMaui (Maui; & 800/233-1234;www.maui.hyatt.com): You can-not match the location—this isHawaii’s only oceanfront spa. The9,000-square-foot spa houses 11relaxing treatment rooms and fea-tures a full-service fitness center,plus a relaxation lounge, a roman-tic couples’ treatment room, and asalon/retail shop. See p. 365.

• Spa Kea Lani at the FairmontKea Lani Maui (Maui; & 800/659-4100; www.kealani.com):This intimate, Art Deco boutiquespa (just a little over 5,000 sq. ft.,with nine treatment rooms),which opened in 1999, is theplace for personal and privateattention. The fitness center is justnext door. See p. 381.

• ANARA Spa at the HyattRegency Kauai (Kauai; & 80808/240-6440; www.anaraspa.com):This is the place to come to get ridof stress and to be soothed and


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Pampering in Paradise

Hawaii’s spas have raised the art of relaxation and healing to a newlevel. The traditional Greco-Roman–style spas, with lots of marble andbig tubs in closed rooms, have evolved into airy, open facilities thatembrace the tropics. Spa-goers in Hawaii are looking for a sense ofplace, seeped in the culture. They want to hear the sound of theocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. Theywant to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments theycan get only in the islands.

The spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patronized by women,are now attracting more male clients. There are special massages forchildren and pregnant women, and some spas have created programsto nurture and relax brides on their big day.

Today’s spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. There is no longerplain, ordinary massage, but Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aromather-apy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head), shi-atsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai(another oilless massage involving stretching), and hot stone (withheated, and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side mas-sages for couples. The truly decadent might even try a duo massage—not one, but two massage therapists working on you at once.

Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entirebody or for just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, orscrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, withor without accompanying aromatherapy, lights, and music.

After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an arrayof water treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and anassortment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer arange of alternative health care like acupuncture and chiropractic, andmore exotic treatments like ayurvedic and siddha from India or reikifrom Japan. Many places offer specialized, cutting-edge treatments,like the Grand Wailea Resort’s full-spectrum color-light therapy pod(based on NASA’s work with astronauts).

Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fit-ness facilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf)and classes (yoga, aerobics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi, kickboxing,aquacize). Several even offer adventure fitness packages (from bicy-cling to snorkeling). For the nonadventurous, most spas have salons,dedicated to hair and nail care and makeup.

If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry, all the spas inHawaii have individual consultants who will help design you an appro-priate treatment program to fit your individual needs.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. Massages aregenerally $95 to $150 for 50 minutes and $145 to $200 for 80 minutes;body treatments are in the $120-to-$195 range; and alternativehealth-care treatments can be has high as $150 to $220. But you maythink it’s worth the expense to banish your tension and stress.

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pampered in a Hawaiian atmos-phere, where the spirit of alohareigns. An elegant 25,000-square-foot spa, ANARA (A New AgeRestorative Approach) focuses onHawaiian culture and healing,with some 16 treatment rooms, alap pool, fitness facilities, lava rockshowers that open to the tropicalair, outdoor whirlpools, a 24-headSwiss shower, Turkish steam rooms,Finnish saunas, and botanicalsoaking tubs. See p. 543.

• Princeville Health Club & Spa,Princeville Resort (Kauai; & 808/826-5030): This spa offers goodvalue. Not only are the treatments

a full 60 minutes (versus the stan-dard 50 min. in most spas), butprices are also quite a bit lower(hour-long massages and bodytreatments are way less than whatmany spas charge). Just a short 7-minute drive (via the free resortshuttle) from the Princeville Hotel,this 10,000-square-foot boutiquespa has amenities like a 25m(82 ft.) heated lap pool, outdoorwhirlpool, sauna, steam room, fivetreatment rooms (plus massagecabanas poolside at the hotel),exercise classes, a weight room, acardio room, and even babysittingservices. See p. 555.


11 The Best Dining, Hawaii Style• Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, the

queen of fruit in Indonesia, is thesensation at the Hilo Farmers Mar-ket on the Big Island. Mangosteen’selegant purple skin and soft, white,floral-flavored flesh (like litchi, butmore custardlike than translucent)make this fruit a sure winner. Itjoins the ranks of rambutan,durian, sapote, sapodilla, and otherexotic Asian newcomers. Thesefruits are not generally available insupermarkets yet, but they willoccasionally appear in Honolulu’sChinatown and at neighbor-islandgreen markets.

The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late springand summer. Hayden mangoesare universally loved for theirplump, juicy flesh and brilliantskins. White Piries, with theirresinous flavor and fine, fiberlessflesh, are even better; this rare andambrosial variety can be found inHonolulu’s Chinatown or at road-side fruit stands in rural Oahu.Watch for the Rapoza, a newspecies of large, sweet, fiberlessmango, introduced to Hawaii sev-eral years ago.

Papaya lovers, take note:Kahuku papayas—firm, fleshy,dark orange, and so juicy theysometimes squirt—are the onesto watch for on menus and inmarkets; check out the roadsidestands in Kahuku on Oahu, and atsupermarkets. Sunrise papayasfrom Kapoho and Kauai are alsotop-notch.

White, acid-free, extra-sweet,and grown on Kauai and the BigIsland, Sugarloaf pineapples arethe new rage. Hilo is the town forlitchis (also known as lychees) insummer, but Honolulu’s China-town markets carry them, too.Decidedly Hawaiian are Ka’uoranges, grown in the volcanicsoil of the southern Big Island andavailable in supermarkets andhealth-food stores. Don’t be fooledby their brown, ugly skin—they’rejuicy, thin-skinned, and sweet ashoney.

• Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin,pho, pasta, chow mein—Hawaiiis the epicenter of ethnic noodlestands and houses, with manyrecommendable and inexpensivechoices. Jimbo’s Restaurant(Oahu; & 808/947-2211), a

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neighborhood staple, is tops forfreshly made udon with generoustoppings and a homemade broth(p. 242). On the neighbor islands,noodle-mania prevails at Hamura’sSaimin Stand (Kauai; & 808/245-\3271), where saimin andteriyaki sticks have replaced ham-burgers and pizza as the late-night,comfort-food tradition (p. 564).Nori’s Saimin & Snacks (BigIsland; & 808/935-9133) ischarming Hilo’s secret for con-summate saimin of every stripe(p. 285). And, of course, Oodlesof Noodles (Big Island; & 808/329-9222) remains the epitomeof noodle heaven (p. 269).

• Plate Lunches: For seasoned platelunchers who favor the tradi-tional “two-scoop rice” lunchesweighted with carbohydrates andhefty meats, Zippy’s (21 locationsthroughout Oahu; call & 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you)is a household word. Other favoriteplate-lunch spots on Oahu includeKakaako Kitchen (& 808/596-7488), Ward Centre (p. 144),serving dinner at indoor and out-door tables; I ❤ Country Cafe(& 808/596-8108; p. 144); andYama’s Fish Market (& 808/941-9994; p. 217), where thechocolate/macadamia nut cookiesand chocolate biscotti have legionsof fans. On Maui Pauwela Cafe(& 808/575-9242; p. 414) servesgourmet feasts from a tiny kitchen,including the best smoked-turkeysandwich in the world, whileAloha Mixed Plate (& 808/661-3322; p. 399) lets you nosh onfabulous shoyu chicken at ocean’sedge—and with a mai tai, too. OnKauai Pono Market (& 808/822-4581; p. 563), Fish Express(& 808/245-9918; p. 562), andKoloa Fish Market (& 808/742-6199; p. 562) are at the top of theplate-lunch pyramid.

• Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave iceis synonymous with Haleiwa, theNorth Shore Oahu town whereMatsumoto Shave Ice (& 808/637-4827; p. 226) and neighbor-ing Aoki’s (no phone; p. 226)serve mounds of icy treats to longlines of thirsty takers. This tastyand refreshing cultural phenome-non is even better over ice creamand adzuki beans.

• Other Mighty Morsels: Poi bis-cotti from the Poi Company,available at supermarkets andgourmet outlets such as HawaiiRegional Cuisine Marketplace (inMacy’s in Ala Moana, Honolulu),is a new taste treat, the consum-mate accompaniment to anotherisland phenomenon, Kona coffee.Coffee growers of highest esteem(all based on the Big Island, ofcourse), include: Rooster Farms(& 808/328-9173), which sellsand ships only organic coffees;Bong Brothers (& 808/328-9289); Kona Blue Sky Coffee(& 808/322-1700); LangensteinFarm (& 808/328-8356); andHolualoa Kona Coffee Company(& 800/334-0348). See the box“Kona Coffee Craze!” on p. 272.

The buttery, chocolate-dippedshortbread cookies of Big IslandCandies (Big Island; & 808/935-8890; p. 344) are worth everycalorie and every dollar. If you’regoing through Waimea, don’t missCook’s Discoveries (Big Island;& 808/885-3633; p. 340), wheresuperlatives never end—the bestcookies, preserves, vinegars, poi,and many other marvelous tastetreats, as well as Hawaiian giftitems. From Kauai, Hanapepetown’s venerable Taro Ko chips(& 808/335-5586 for the factory;p. 616) are the crunchy snackneighbor islanders drive longmiles to find, then cart home inhand-carried bundles.

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12 The Best Restaurants• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu;

& 808/949-2526): Master strokesat this shrine of Hawaii RegionalCuisine include warm Californiarolls made with salmon roe, wasabi,and Kona lobster instead of rice;luau lumpia with butterfish andkalua pig; and ginger-crusted freshonaga. Opihi shooters and day-boat scallops in season are a must,and grilled lamb chops are a peren-nial special. The menu changesdaily, but the flavors never losetheir sizzle. See p. 150.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (Oahu;& 808/944-4714): Honolulu isabuzz over the wine pairingsand elegant cuisine of GeorgeMavrothalassitis, the culinary wiz-ard and James Beard award–win-ner from Provence who turned LaMer (at the Halekulani) and Sea-sons (at the Four Seasons ResortWailea) into temples of fine din-ing. He brought his award-win-ning signature dishes with himand continues to prove his inge-nuity with dazzling a la carteand prix-fixe ($48–$85) menus.See p. 149.

• Hoku’s (Oahu; & 808/739-8780): Elegant without beingstuffy, and creative without beingoverwrought, the fine-dining roomof the Kahala Mandarin offers ele-gant lunches and dinners and oneof Oahu’s best Sunday brunches.This is fusion that really works—European finesse with an islandtouch. The ocean view, openkitchen, and astonishing bamboofloor are stellar features. Reflectingthe restaurant’s cross-cultural influ-ences, the kitchen is equipped witha kiawe grill, an Indian tandoorioven, and Szechuan woks.

• La Mer (Oahu; & 808/923-2311): This romantic, elegant din-ing room at Waikiki’s Halekulaniis the only AAA Five-Diamond

restaurant in the state. The sec-ond-floor, open-sided room, withviews of Diamond Head and thesound of trade winds rustling thenearby coconut fronds, is the epit-ome of fine dining. Michelin-award–winning chef Yves Garniermelds classical French influenceswith fresh island ingredients. It’spricey but worth it. Men arerequired to wear jackets (they havea selection if you didn’t pack one).See p. 129.

• Padovani’s Restaurant & WineBar (Oahu; & 808/946-3456):Chef Philippe Padovani’s elegant,innovative style is highlighted ineverything from the endive saladto the pan-fried moi at this two-tiered restaurant. Downstairs is aswank dining room with Bernar-daud china and Frette linens;upstairs is the informal Wine Barwith excellent single-malt Scotches,wines by the glass, and a muchmore casual, but equally sublime,menu. See p. 134.

• Roy’s Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/396-7697): Good food still reignsat this busy, noisy flagship HawaiiKai dining room with the trade-mark open kitchen. Roy Yam-aguchi’s deft way with localingredients, nostalgic ethnic prepa-rations, and fresh fish makes hismenu, which changes daily, a novelexperience every time. See p. 155.

• Keei Café (Big Island; & 808/328-8451): The darling of SouthKona is still going strong. KeeiCafe is about as far as you can getfrom the famous dining rooms ofthe Kohala resorts, but the food is“so much more ono” as we say inHawaii, people gladly drive thelong distance to eat here. This isHawaii’s version of a bistro, with afriendly, casual ambience, greatfood, and affordable prices. Seep. 271.

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• Merriman’s (Big Island; (& 808/885-6822): Chef Peter Merriman,one of the founders of HawaiiRegional Cuisine, displays his cre-ativity at this Waimea eatery, apremier Hawaii attraction. Dishesinclude his signature wok-charredahi, kung pao shrimp, or lambfrom nearby Kahua Ranch. Hisfamous platters of seafood andmeats are among the many reasonsthis is still the best—and busiest—dining spot in Waimea. See p. 278.

• Gerard’s (Maui; & 808/661-8939): The charm of Gerard’s—soft lighting, Edith Piaf on thesound system, excellent service—is matched by a menu of uncom-promising standards. A frequentwinner of the Wine SpectatorAward of Excellence, Gerard’soffers French cuisine with thechef ’s own island touches. Housedin an old Victorian house (askfor a table on the lanai outside),Gerard’s dreamy, romantic atmos-phere and innovative cuisine willlinger in your memory. See p. 396.

• Haliimaile General Store (Maui;& 808/572-2666): Bev Gannon,1 of the 12 original HawaiiRegional Cuisine chefs, is stillgoing strong at her foodie havenin the pineapple fields. You’ll dineat tables set on old wood floorsunder high ceilings, in a peach-colored room emblazoned withworks by local artists. Gannon’sTexas roots shine through in herfood, a blend of eclectic Americanwith ethnic touches that putsan innovative spin on HawaiiRegional Cuisine. See p. 410.

• Vino (Maui; & 808/661-VINO):Probably the best Italian food onMaui is served at this exquisiterestaurant, overlooking the rollinghills of the Kapalua Golf Course.The surprise is that it’s run by twoJapanese guys—D. K. Kodama,chef and owner of Sansei Seafood

Restaurant and Sushi Bar (p. 405)and master sommelier ChuckFuruya. The two teamed up tocreate a culinary adventure forfoodies. Every dish is perfectlypaired with wine (the wine listalone features more than 150selections, many of them estatewines exclusive to Vino). Themenu changes constantly butalways has homemade pastas andseafood masterpieces. See p. 405.

• Henry Clay’s Rotisserie (Lanai;& 808/565-7211): Henry ClayRichardson, a New Orleans native,has made some welcome changesto Lanai’s dining landscape withhis rustic inn in the middle ofLanai City. It’s very popular andalways full. Maybe that’s becauseit’s the only option on Lanai thatoccupies the vast gap betweendeli-diner and upscale-luxe. Themenu focuses on French-countryfare, gourmet pizzas, and crispysalads in a quaint, country-innatmosphere. See p. 517.

• A Pacific Cafe Kauai (Kauai;& 808/822-0013): The firstrestaurant Jean-Marie Josselinopened is still the reigning fave.The signature items (tiger-eyesushi, garlic-crisped mahimahi)are staples. Foodies agree: It’s theway Josselin uses Kauai produceand seafood that gives this diningroom the edge. See p. 571.

• Dondero’s (Kauai; & 808/742-1234): If you are looking for aromantic dinner, Dondero’s is hardto beat. Dine either under the starsoverlooking the ocean or tuckedaway at an intimate table sur-rounded by inlaid marble floors,ornate imported floor tiles, andFranciscan murals. You get all thisatmosphere plus the best Italiancuisine on the island, served withefficiency. It’s hard to have a badexperience here. Dinners are priceybut worth every penny. See p. 566.

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13 The Best Shops & Galleries• The Contemporary Museum and

Honolulu Academy of Arts(Oahu): These two architecturaland cultural wonders, legacies ofthe same kamaaina (old-timer)family, house peerless collectionsin garden settings. For Asian,American, and European masters,go to the Academy; for a look atsome of America’s most significantart since 1940 (and the prettiestforest drive in Honolulu), TCM isthe only game in town. For thosewho want to buy as well as browse,both museums have stellar shops:The Academy Shop (& 808/523-8703) features ethnic and con-temporary gift items representingthe arts-and-crafts traditions ofthe world, from basketry andbeadwork to ikats and saris. At theContemporary Museum GiftShop (& 808/523-3447), every-thing is art: The avant-garde jew-elry, stationery, books, and giftitems are brilliant, spirited, andfunctional. See the box “Oahu’sVibrant Art Scene” in chapter 4.

• Avanti Fashion (Oahu; & 808/926-6886; plus two other Waikikilocations): Avanti aloha shirts andsportswear, in authentic printsfrom the 1930s and 1940s repro-duced on silk, elevate tropical garbfrom high kick to high chic.Casual, comfortable, easy-care,and light as a cloud, the silks lookvintage but cost a fraction of col-lectibles’ prices. These nostalgictreasures are available at manystores statewide, but the best betsare at the three Avanti retail storesin Waikiki. See p. 213.

• Native Books & BeautifulThings (Oahu; & 808/596-8885): Hawaii is the content andthe context in this shop of books,crafts, and gift items made byisland artists. Musical instruments,

calabashes, jewelry, leis, fabrics,clothing, home accessories, jamsand jellies—they’re all high-qualityand made in Hawaii. See p. 221.

• Nohea Gallery (Oahu; & 808/596-0074; plus three other loca-tions): Works by some of thefinest artists and craftsmen ofHawaii can be found here. Fromhandcrafted fine jewelry to hairaccessories, paintings, handblownglass, ceramics, and stunning curlykoa furniture, the works are top-drawer. See p. 221.

• Silver Moon Emporium (Oahu;& 808/637-7710): It just keepsgetting better at this sleek and chicmagnet that’s drawing adventur-ous fashionistas to Haleiwa.Bevies of fans from California,New York, France, and Japan, notto mention Hilo and Honolulu,have left this boutique with hats,handbags, sandals, jewelry, partydresses, beachwear, and the perfectsarong skirt for the perfect back-yard luau. See p. 226.

• Dragon Mama (Big Island;& 808/934-9081): All-natural,mostly organic comforters, cush-ions, futons, fabrics, antiquekimonos, and obi, as well asdesigner teas and incense, makeDragon Mama the dreamiest ofstops in Hilo. The bolts of lavishsilks are the most sumptuous you’llfind in the islands. See p. 343.

• Sig Zane Designs (Big Island;& 808/935-7077): Sig Zane neverruns out of ideas, inspiration, andenergy for his culturally meaning-ful and visually striking Hawaiianwear. Whether it’s a Sig Zane shirt,muumuu, pareu, T-shirt, houseslippers, or bedspread, it’s uniquelyidentifiable and imbued with thespirit of Hawaii—like bringingthe rainforest into your home. Seep. 344.

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• Volcano Art Center (Big Island;& 808/967-8222): We love thecreaky wooden floors, the smokyscent in the air, the rolling mists,and the art. Thriving in an 1877building, the art center offers arteducation, programs and per-formances, and wondrous worksin all media, featuring the mostprominent artists on the island.See p. 345.

• Hui No’Eau Visual Arts Cen-ter (Maui; & 808/572-6560):Upcountry in Makawao, this1917 Mediterranean manse on a9-acre estate is part gallery, partexhibition space, and part giftshop, classrooms, and demonstra-tion center—and every inch is apaean to beauty. See p. 465.

• Hana Coast Gallery (Maui;& 808/248-8636): The long andwinding road to Hana leads tothe Hotel Hana-Maui, wherethe works in the Hana CoastGallery reflect a deep commit-ment to Hawaii’s cultural art.Native Hawaiian artists and mastercraftspeople have a presence andintegrity here unlike any othergallery in the islands. See p. 468.

• Ola’s (Kauai; & 808/826-6937):Fine crafts from across the country

find their way to this temple ofgood taste: lamps, vases, blownglass, drumsticks, jewelry, hard-to-find books, and the peerlesspaintings of award-winning artistDoug Britt. See p. 619.

• Bambulei (Kauai; & 808/823-8641): Celebrate the charm andstyle of 1930s to 1940s collectiblesin this treasure trove at the edge ofthe cane field. Fabulous one-of-a-kind vintage finds—Mandarindresses with hand-sewn sequins,1940s “pake muumuus” in mintcondition, Peking lacquerware,Bakelite jewelry—fill this jewel ofa boutique, owned by two womenwith a passion for the past. Seep. 617.

• Kong Lung (Kauai; & 808/828-1822): You’ll be surprised by whatyou find inside this 1922 stonebuilding: a showcase of design,style, and quality items, from din-nerware, books, jewelry, andclothing to the finest sake and teasets on the island. Throw in a lac-quer bowl or two, a pair of beadedsandals, and a silk dress from thewomen’s section, and the party’son at “Gump’s of the Pacific.” Seep. 619.

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14 The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails• Duke’s Canoe Club, at the Out-

rigger Waikiki (Oahu; & 808/922-2268): It’s crowded in theevening, but who can resistHawaiian music with Waikikisand still on your feet? Come infrom the beach or the street—it’salways a party at Duke’s. Enter-tainment here is tops, reaching acrescendo at sunset. See “Hawai-ian Music” under “Oahu AfterDark” in chapter 4.

• House Without a Key, at theHalekulani (Oahu; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’s quintessential sunset

oasis, located outdoors on theocean, offers a view of DiamondHead, great hula and steel-guitarmusic, and the best mai tais on theisland—all under a century-oldkiawe tree. Even jaded locals areunable to resist the lure. See“Bars” under “Oahu After Dark”in chapter 4.

• Mai Tai Bar, at the Royal Hawai-ian Hotel (Oahu; & 808/923-7311): This bar without walls isperched a few feet from the sand,with views of the south shore andthe Waianae Mountains. Surfers

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and paddlers ride the waves whileDiamond Head acquires a goldensunset halo. This is one of themost pleasing views of WaikikiBeach; sip a mighty mai tai whileCarmen and Keith Haugen sere-nade you. See “Bars” under “OahuAfter Dark” in chapter 4.

• Sunset Lanai Lounge, at the NewOtani Kaimana Beach Hotel(Oahu; & 808/923-1555): Thehau tree here shaded Robert LouisStevenson as he wrote poems toPrincess Kaiulani; today, it framesthe ocean view from the SunsetLanai Lounge, next to the HauTree Lanai restaurant. This loungeis the favorite watering hole ofDiamond Head–area beachgoers,who love Sans Souci beach, theocean view, the mai tais, and thelive music during weekend sunsethours. See p. 120.

• Jameson’s by the Sea (Oahu;& 808/637-6272): The mai taishere are dubbed the best in surfcity, and the view, though not per-fect, doesn’t hurt either. Across thestreet from the harbor, this open-air roadside oasis is a happy stopfor North Shore wave-watchersand sunset-savvy sightseers. Seep. 404.

• Huggo’s on the Rocks (BigIsland; & 808/329-1493): Here’sa thatched-bar fantasy that’s reallyon the rocks. This mound ofthatch, rock, and grassy-sandy

ground right next to Huggo’srestaurant is a sunset lover’s nir-vana. Sip a tropical drink whilereclining on a chaise and nosh onisland-style appetizers while theocean laps at your feet. See p. 266.

• Beach Tree Bar and Grill, at theFour Seasons Resort Hualalai (BigIsland; & 808/325-8000): Thebar on the beach seats only ahandful, but the restaurant willaccept the overflow. This is thefinest sunset perch in North Kona,with consummate people-watch-ing, water birds strutting by, tastydrinks, and the gorgeous ocean.The open-air restaurant, withHawaiian music and hula dancingat sunset, also serves excellent fare.See p. 266.

• Kimo’s (Maui; & 808/661-4811):An oceanfront dining room anddeck, upstairs dining, and happy-hour drinks draw a fun-lovingLahaina crowd. Nibble on sashimior nachos and take in the views ofLanai and Molokai from this WestMaui institution. See p. 399.

• Hula Grill (Maui; & 808/667-6636): Sit outdoors at the Bare-foot Bar, order drinks andmacadamia nut/crab won tons,and marvel at the wonders of WestMaui, where the sun sets slowlyand Lanai looks like a giant whaleoffshore. It’s simply magical. Seep. 402.


15 The Best Hawaii Websites• Hawaii Visitors & Convention

Bureau (www.gohawaii.com):This site provides an excellent, all-around guide to activities,tours, lodging, and events, plus ahuge section on weddings andhoneymoons. But keep in mindthat only members of the HVCBare listed.

• Internet Hawaii Radio (www.hotspots.hawaii.com): A greatway to get into the mood, thiseclectic site features great Hawai-ian music, with opportunities toorder a CD or cassette. You canalso purchase a respectable assort-ment of Hawaiian historical andcultural books.

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• Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com): This site provides an exten-sive guide to activities, dining,lodging, parks, shopping, andmore from the Oahu chapter ofthe Hawaii Visitors and Conven-tion Bureau.

• Big Island Home Page (www.bigisland.com): Though not themost beautifully designed site, itdoes include lots of listings fordining, lodging, and activities,most with links to more informa-tion and images.

• Maui Island Currents (www.islandcurrents.com): Specializingin arts and culture, Island Cur-rents gives the most detailed low-down on current exhibitions andperformance art. Gallery listingsare organized by town, while in-depth articles highlight localartists. Consult restaurant reviewsfrom the Maui News “Best ofMaui” poll for suggestions andprices.

• Maui Net (www.maui.net): Theclients of this Internet serviceprovider are featured in thisextensive directory of links toaccommodations, activities, andshopping. The Activity Desk haslinks to golf, hiking, airborneactivities, and ocean adventures,

such as scuba and snorkeling.These links lead to outfitters’ sites,where you can learn more and setup excursions before you arrive.

• Molokai: The Most HawaiianIsland (www.molokai-hawaii.com): This is a very completesite for activities, events, nightlife,accommodations, and family vaca-tions. Enjoy the landscape byviewing a virtual photo tour, getdriving times between variouspoints, and learn about localhistory.

• Kauai: Island of Discovery(www.kauai-hawaii.com): Exten-sive listings cover activities, events,recreation, attractions, beaches,and much more. The VacationDirectory includes information ongolf, fishing, and island tours; somelistings include e-mail addressesand links to websites. You’ll alsofind a clickable map of the islandwith listings organized by region.

• The Hawaiian Language Web-site (www.geocities.com/~olelo/):This fabulous site not only haseasy lessons on learning theHawaiian language but also agreat cultural calendar, links toother Hawaiiana websites, a sec-tion on the hula, and lyrics (andtranslations) to Hawaiian songs.

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the best of hawaii - wiley€¦ · the best of hawaii t here’s no place on earth quite like this...

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