The Best of Hawaii

There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-Pacific islands.The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really does exist. Here you’llfind palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls,wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and soaring volcanoes. And oh, thosebeaches—gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The pos-sibilities for adventure—and relaxation—are endless. Each of the six main islands isseparate, distinct, and infinitely complex. There’s far too much to see and do on any2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year afteryear.

Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. Ifyou’re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps sell-ing shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cellophane-skirted huladancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get onthat “free” snorkeling trip. That’s where this guide comes in. As a Hawaii resident, Ican tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book will steer you awayfrom the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced—and toward the best Hawaii hasto offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will help ensure that every dollar iswell spent.

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• Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gor-geous to be real, this stretch along theWindward Coast is one of Hawaii’spostcard-perfect beaches—a mile ofgolden sand as soft as powdered sugarbordering translucent turquoisewaters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming,snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tinyoffshore islands complete the picture,functioning not only as scenic back-drops, but also as bird sanctuaries.See p. 178.

• Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This 1⁄2-mile-long crescent regularly winskudos in the world’s top travel maga-zines as the most beautiful beach inHawaii—some consider it one of the

most beautiful beaches in the world.One look and you’ll see why: Perfectcream-colored sand slopes down tocrystal-clear waters that are great forswimming, snorkeling, and bodysurf-ing in summer; come winter, wavesthunder in like stampeding horses.The facilities for picnicking andcamping are top-notch, and there’splenty of parking. See p. 298.

• Kapalua Beach (Maui): On anisland with many great beaches,Kapalua takes the prize. This goldencrescent with swaying palms is pro-tected from strong winds and cur-rents by two outstretched lava-rockpromontories. Its calm waters areperfect for snorkeling, swimming,

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and kayaking. Facilities includeshowers, restrooms, and lifeguards.See p. 424.

• Papohaku Beach (Molokai): Thesegold sands stretch on for some 3 miles(it’s one of Hawaii’s longest beaches)and are about as wide as a footballfield. Offshore the ocean churnsmightily in winter, but the waves diedown in summer, making the calmwaters inviting for swimming. It’salso great for picnicking, walking,and watching sunsets. See p. 496.

• Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): Thisgolden, palm-fringed beach off thesouth coast of Lanai gently slopesdown to the azure waters of a MarineLife Conservation District, whereclouds of tropical fish flourish andspinner dolphins come to play. A tidepool in the lava rocks defines one side

of the bay, while the other is lordedover by the Manele Bay Hotel, whichsits prominently on the hill above.Offshore you’ll find good swimming,snorkeling, and diving; onshore there’sa full complement of beach facilities,from restrooms to camping areas. Seep. 526.

• Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed byverdant cliffs, this curvaceous NorthShore beach has starred as Paradise inmany a movie. It’s easy to see whyHollywood loves Haena Beach, withits grainy golden sand and translu-cent turquoise waters. Summermonths bring calm waters for swim-ming and snorkeling, and winterbrings mighty waves for surfers.There are plenty of facilities on hand,including picnic tables, restrooms,and showers. See p. 587.

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• Hitting the Beach: A beach is abeach is a beach, right? Not inHawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, andreefs, plus a general coastline of 750miles, Hawaii has beaches in all dif-ferent shapes, sizes, and colors,including black. The variety on thesix major islands is astonishing; youcould go to a different beach everyday for years and still not see themall. For the best of a spectacularbunch, see “The Best Beaches,”above.

• Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin,and snorkel, and explore Hawaii’smagical underwater world, whereexotic corals and kaleidoscopic cloudsof tropical fish await you—a sea tur-tle may even come over to check youout. Can’t swim? That’s no excuse—take one of the many submarine toursoffered by Atlantis Submarines(& 800/548-6262; www.go-atlantis.com) on Oahu, the Big Island, and

Maui. Check out the “Watersports”section in each island chapter formore information on all these under-water adventures.

• Meeting Local Folks: If you go toHawaii and see only people like theones back home, you might as wellnot have come. Extend yourself—leave your hotel, go out and meet thelocals, and learn about Hawaii and itspeople. Just smile and say “Owzit?”—which means “How is it?” (“It’s good,”is the usual response)—and you’re onyour way to making a new friend.Hawaii is remarkably cosmopolitan;every ethnic group in the worldseems to be represented here. There’sa huge diversity of food, culture, lan-guage, and customs.

• Feeling History Come Alive atPearl Harbor (Oahu): The UnitedStates could turn its back on WorldWar II no longer after December 7,1941, when Japanese warplanes

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T H E B E S T I S L A N D E X P E R I E N C E S 7

The Hawaiian Islands

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bombed Pearl Harbor. Standing onthe deck of the USS Arizona Memor-ial (& 808/422-0561; www.nps.gov/usar)—the eternal tomb for the1,177 sailors and Marines trappedbelow when the battleship sank injust 9 minutes—is a moving experi-ence you’ll never forget. Also in PearlHarbor, you can visit the USS Mis-souri Memorial, where World War IIcame to an end. The Japanese signedtheir surrender on the deck of this58,000-ton battleship on September2, 1945. See p. 204.

• Watching for Whales: If you happento be in Hawaii during humpback-whale season (roughly Dec–Apr),don’t miss the opportunity to seethese gentle giants. A host of boats—from small inflatables to high-tech,high-speed sailing catamarans—offera range of whale-watching cruises onevery island. One of my favorites isalong the Big Island’s Kona Coast,where Capt. Dan McSweeney’s Year-Round Whale-Watching Adven-tures (& 808/322-0028; www.ilovewhales.com) takes you right to thewhales year-round (pilot, sperm, falsekiller, melon-headed, pygmy killer,and beaked whales call Hawaii homeeven when humpbacks aren’t in resi-dence). A whale researcher for morethan 25 years, Captain Dan fre-quently drops an underwater micro-phone or video camera into thedepths so you can listen to whalesongs and maybe actually see what’sgoing on. See p. 300.

• Creeping up to the Ooze (Big Island):Kilauea volcano has been adding landto the Big Island continuously since1983. If conditions are right, you canwalk up to the red-hot lava and see itooze along, or you can stand at theshoreline and watch with awe as2,000°F (1,092°C) molten fire poursinto the ocean. You can also take to

the air in a helicopter and see the Vol-cano Goddess’s work from above. See“Hawaii Volcanoes National Park,”under “Seeing the Sights,” in chapter 5.

• Going Big-Game Fishing off theKona Coast (Big Island): Don’t passup the opportunity to try your luckin the sportfishing capital of theworld, where 1,000-pound marlin aretaken from the sea just about everymonth of the year. Not looking to seta world record? Kona’s charter-boatcaptains specialize in conservationand will be glad to tag any fish youangle, and then let it go so someoneelse can have the fun of fighting abig-game fish tomorrow. See “Sport-fishing: The Hunt for Granders,”under “Watersports,” in chapter 5.

• Greeting the Rising Sun from atopHaleakala (Maui): Bundle up inwarm clothing, fill a thermos full ofhot java, and drive up to the summitto watch the sky turn from inky blackto muted charcoal as a small sliver oforange light forms on the horizon.There’s something about standing at10,000 feet, breathing in the rarefiedair, and watching the first rays of sunstreak across the sky. This is a mysti-cal experience of the first magnitude.See “House of the Sun: HaleakalaNational Park,” under “Seeing theSights,” in chapter 6.

• Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa (Molo-kai): If you have only a day to spendon Molokai, spend it on a mule. Thetrek from “topside” Molokai toKalaupapa National Historic Park(Father Damien’s world-famous lepercolony) with Molokai Mule Ride(& 800/567-7550; www.muleride.com) is a once-in-a-lifetime adven-ture. The cliffs are taller than 300-story skyscrapers, but Buzzy Sproat’ssurefooted mules go up and down thenarrow 2.9-mile trail daily, rain orshine, and he’s never lost a rider or a

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mount on the 26 switchbacks. Even ifyou can’t afford to mule or helicopterin, don’t pass up the opportunity tosee this hauntingly beautiful penin-sula. If you’re in good shape andbrought hiking boots with you, youcan get a permit (available at the trailhead) and hike down the trail. Theviews are breathtaking: You’ll see theworld’s highest sea cliffs and water-falls plunging thousands of feet intothe ocean. See “The Legacy of FatherDamien: Kalaupapa National His-toric Park,” under “Seeing the Sights,”in chapter 7.

• Taking a Day Trip to Lanai (Maui):If you’d like to visit Lanai but haveonly a day to spare, consider taking aday trip. Trilogy (& 888/MAUI-800;www.sailtrilogy.com) offers an all-daysailing, snorkeling, and whale-watch-ing adventure. Trilogy is the only out-fitter with rights to Hulopoe Beach,and the trip includes a minivan tour

of the little isle (pop. 3,500). See p. 429.You can also take Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry (& 808/661-3756; www.go-lanai.com) from Mauito Lanai, and then rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle from Dollar Rent-A-Car (& 800/588-7808) for a day ofbackcountry exploring and beachfun. See p. 430.

• Soaring over the Na Pali Coast(Kauai): This is the only way to seethe spectacular, surreal beauty ofKauai. Your helicopter will dip lowover razor-thin cliffs, fluttering pastsparkling waterfalls and swoopingdown into the canyons and valleys ofthe fabled Na Pali Coast. The onlyproblem is that there’s too muchbeauty to absorb, and it all goes by ina rush. See “Helicopter Rides overWaimea Canyon & the Na PaliCoast,” under “Seeing the Sights,” inchapter 9.

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• Volcanoes: The entire island chain ismade of volcanoes; don’t miss theopportunity to see one. On Oahu theentire family can hike to the top ofancient, world-famous DiamondHead (see “Diamond Head Crater,”under “Nature Hikes,” in chapter 4).At the other end of the spectrum isfire-breathing Kilauea at Hawaii Vol-canoes National Park, on the BigIsland, where you can get an up-close-and-personal experience withthe red-hot lava ooze (see “HawaiiVolcanoes National Park,” under“Seeing the Sights,” in chapter 5). OnMaui, Haleakala National Parkprovides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater (see“House of the Sun: Haleakala NationalPark,” under “Seeing the Sights,” inchapter 6).

• Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls thun-dering downward into sparklingfreshwater pools are some of Hawaii’smost beautiful natural wonders. Ifyou’re on the Big Island, stop byRainbow Falls (p. 333) in Hilo orthe spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls(p. 327), just outside the city. OnMaui the Road to Hana offers numer-ous viewing opportunities; at the endof the drive, you’ll find Oheo Gulch(also known as the Seven SacredPools), with some of the most dra-matic and accessible waterfalls on theislands (see “Tropical Haleakala:Oheo Gulch at Kipahulu,” under “See-ing the Sights,” in chapter 6). Kauaiis loaded with waterfalls, especiallyalong the North Shore and in theWailua area, where you’ll find 40-foot Opaekaa Falls, probably the

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best-looking drive-up waterfall onKauai (see “Wailua River State Park,”under “Seeing the Sights,” in chapter9). With scenic mountain peaks in thebackground and a restored Hawaiianvillage on the nearby riverbanks, theOpaekaa Falls are what the tourist-bureau folks call an eye-poppingphoto op.

• Gardens: The islands are redolentwith the sweet scent of flowers. For aglimpse of the full breadth andbeauty of Hawaii’s spectacular rangeof tropical flora, we suggest spendingan afternoon at a lush garden. OnOahu, amid the high-rises of down-town Honolulu, the leafy oasis ofFoster Botanical Garden (p. 206)showcases 26 native Hawaiian treesand the last stand of several rare trees,including an East African, whosewhite flowers bloom only at night.On the Big Island, Liliuokalani Gar-dens (p. 330), the largest formalJapanese garden this side of Tokyo,resembles a postcard from Asia, withbonsai, carp ponds, pagodas, andeven a moon-gate bridge. At Maui’sKula Botanical Garden (p. 457),you can take a leisurely self-guidedstroll through more than 700 nativeand exotic plants, including orchids,proteas, and bromeliads. On lushKauai, Na Aina Kai Botanical Gar-dens (p. 614), on some 240 acres, issprinkled with some 70 life-size(some larger than life-size) whimsicalbronze statues, hidden off the beatenpath of the North Shore.

• Marine Life Conservation Areas:Nine underwater parks are spreadacross Hawaii, most notably WaikikiBeach (p. 172) and Hanauma Bay

(p. 173) on Oahu; the Big Island’sKealakekua Bay (p. 304); Molokini,just off the coast of Maui (see“Watersports,” in chapter 6); andLanai’s Manele and Hulopoe bays(see “Beaches,” in chapter 8). Be sureto bring snorkel gear to at least one ofthese wonderful places during yourvacation.

• Garden of the Gods (Lanai): Out onLanai’s north shore lies the ultimaterock garden: a rugged, barren, beauti-ful place full of rocks strewn by vol-canic forces and molded by theelements into a variety of shapes andcolors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers,and yellows. Scientists use phrasessuch as “ongoing posterosional event”or “plain and simple badlands” todescribe the desolate, windsweptplace. The ancient Hawaiians, how-ever, considered the Garden of theGods to be an entirely supernaturalphenomenon. Natural badlands ormystical garden? Take a four-wheel-drive trip out here and decide foryourself. See p. 531.

• Waimea Canyon (Kauai): This val-ley, known for its reddish lava beds,reminds everyone who sees it of Ari-zona’s Grand Canyon. Kauai’s versionis bursting with ever-changing color,just like its namesake, but it’ssmaller—only a mile wide, 3,567 feetdeep, and 12 miles long. All thisgrandeur was caused by a massiveearthquake that sent all the streamsflowing into a single river, which thencarved this picturesque canyon. Youcan stop by the road and look at it,hike down into it, or swoop throughit by helicopter. See p. 606.

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T H E B E S T G O L F C O U R S E S 11

• Hanauma Bay (Oahu): It can getcrowded, but for clear, warm, calmwaters; an abundance of fish that areso friendly they’ll swim right up toyour face mask; a beautiful setting;and easy access, there’s no place likeHanauma Bay. Just wade in waist-deep and look down to see more than50 species of reef and inshore fish.Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow innerbay—it’s like swimming in an out-door aquarium. Serious divers shoot“the slot,” a passage through the reef,to enter Witch’s Brew, a turbulentcove. See p. 173.

• Kahaluu Beach (Big Island): Thecalm, shallow waters of Kahaluu areperfect for beginning snorkelers orthose who are unsure of their swim-ming abilities and want the comfortof being able to stand up at any time.The sunlight through the shallowwaters casts a dazzling spotlight onthe colorful sea life and coral forma-tions. If you listen closely, you canactually hear the parrotfish feeding.See p. 295.

• Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Mile-wide Kealakekua Bay, at the foot ofmassive U-shaped sea cliffs, is rich withmarine life, snorkelers, and history. Awhite obelisk marks the spot where, in1778, the great British navigator Capt.

James Cook, who charted most of thePacific, was killed by Hawaiians. Thebay itself is a marine sanctuary thatteems with schools of polychromatictropical fish. See p. 304.

• Molokini (Maui): The islet ofMolokini is shaped like a crescentmoon that fell from the sky. Its shal-low concave side serves as a shelteringbackstop against sea currents for tinytropical fish; its opposite side is adeepwater cliff inhabited by spinylobsters, moray eels, and white-tippedsharks. Neophyte snorkelers shouldreport to the concave side, experi-enced scuba divers the other. Theclear water and abundant marine lifemake this islet off the Makena Coastone of Hawaii’s most popular divespots, so expect crowds. See “Water-sports,” in chapter 6.

• Kee Beach (Kauai): Where the roadends on the North Shore, you’ll finda dandy little reddish-gold sandbeach almost too beautiful to be real.It borders a reef-protected cove at thefoot of fluted volcanic cliffs. Swim-ming and snorkeling are safe insidethe reef, where long-nosed butterflyfish flitter about and schools of taape(bluestripe snapper) swarm over thecoral. See p. 587.

4 The Best of Underwater Hawaii

• Mauna Kea’s Beach and HapunaCourses (Big Island; & 808/882-5400 for Beach Course, & 808/880-3000 for Hapuna Course): TheMauna Kea Golf Course (p. 310),located out on the Kohala Coast, iseveryone’s old favorite. One of thefirst fields of play to be carved out ofthe black lava, the dramatic, always-challenging, par-72, 18-hole champi-onship course is still one of Hawaii’s

top three. The Arnold Palmer/EdSeay–designed Hapuna Golf Course(p. 310) rests in the rolling foothillsabove Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel andprovides a memorable links-style golfexperience along with one of the bestviews of this unusual coast (p. 261).

• Mauna Lani Frances I’i BrownChampionship Courses (Big Island;& 808/885-6655): Mauna Lani’stwo resort courses, North and South,

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feature a combination of oceanfrontand interior lava-lined holes; bothoffer wonderful scenery accompaniedby strategic, championship-level golf.See p. 310.

• Kapalua Resort Courses (Maui; & 877/KAPALUA): Kapalua isprobably the best nationally knowngolf resort in Hawaii, thanks to thePGA Kapalua Mercedes Champi-onship played here each January. TheBay and Village courses are vintageArnold Palmer designs; the Planta-tion Course is a strong Ben Cren-shaw/Bill Coore design. See p. 442.

• Wailea Courses (Maui; & 808/875-7450): On Maui’s sunbaked southshore stands Wailea Resort, the hotspot for golf in the islands. Threeresort courses complement a string ofbeachfront hotels: The Blue Course isan Arthur Jack Snyder design, whileRobert Trent Jones, Jr., is the master-mind behind the Emerald and Goldcourses. All three boast outstandingviews of the Pacific and the mid-Hawaiian islands. See p. 443.

• The Lanai Courses (Lanai): Forquality and seclusion, nothing inHawaii can touch Lanai’s two resortofferings. The Experience at Koele(p. 530), designed by Ted Robinson

and Greg Norman, and The Chal-lenge at Manele (p. 530), a wonder-ful Jack Nicklaus effort with oceanviews from every hole, both rate amongHawaii’s best courses.

• Poipu Bay Golf Course (Kauai; & 808/742-8711): On Kauai’s flat,dry south shore is a 210-acre, links-style course designed by Robert TrentJones, Jr. The course, which for yearshosted the PGA Tour’s Grand Slamof Golf, is not only scenically spectac-ular, but is also a lot of fun to play. Aflock of native Hawaiian nene geesefrequents the course’s lakes, and youcan often see whales, monk seals, andgreen sea turtles along the shore. Seep. 601.

• Princeville Golf Club (Kauai; & 800/826-1105): Here you’ll find 45 of thebest tropical holes of golf in theworld, all the work of Robert TrentJones, Jr. They range along greenbluffs below sharp mountain peaksand offer stunning views in everydirection. The 18-hole Prince course,one of the top three courses inHawaii, provides a round of golf fewever forget. It winds along 390 acresof scenic tableland bisected by tropi-cal jungles, waterfalls, streams, andravines. See p. 601.

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• Experiencing the Hula: For a real,authentic hula experience on Oahu,check out the Bishop Museum(p. 198), which has excellent per-formances on weekdays, or head tothe Halekulani’s House Without aKey (p. 237) at sunset to watch theenchanting Kanoelehua Miller dancebeautiful hula under a century-oldkiawe tree. The first week after Easterbrings Hawaii’s biggest and mostprestigious hula extravaganza, theMerrie Monarch Hula Festival

(p. 35), at Hilo on the Big Island;tickets sell out by January 30, soreserve early. In May there’s theMolokai Ka Hula Piko Festival(p. 500), at Molokai’s PapohakuBeach Park, a wonderful day-longfestival that celebrates the hula on theisland where it was born.

• Watching the Ancient HawaiianSport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu):From February to September, onweekday evenings and weekend days,hundreds of canoe paddlers gather at

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Ala Wai Canal and practice theHawaiian sport of canoe paddling.Find a comfortable spot at Ala WaiPark, next to the canal, and watchthis ancient sport come to life.

• Attending a Hawaiian-LanguageChurch Service (Oahu): KawaiahaoChurch (& 808/522-1333) is theWestminster Abbey of Hawaii. Thevestibule is lined with portraits of theHawaiian monarchy, many of whomwere crowned in this very building.The coral church is a perfect settingin which to experience an all-Hawai-ian service, held every Sunday at9am, complete with Hawaiian song.Admission is free; let your consciencebe your guide as to a donation. See p. 203.

• Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu):There’s actually a host of culturalsights and experiences to be had in Honolulu’s Chinatown. Wanderthrough this several-square-block areawith its jumble of exotic shops offer-ing herbs, Chinese groceries, andacupuncture services. Before youleave, be sure to check out the lei sell-ers on Maunakea Street (near N.Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leisgo for as little as $5. If you’d like a lit-tle guidance, you can follow thewalking tour on p. 210.

• Listening to Old-Fashioned “TalkStory” with Hawaiian Song andDance (Big Island): Once a month,under a full moon, “Twilight atKalahuipua’a,” a celebration of theHawaiian culture that includes story-telling, singing, and dancing, takesplace ocean-side at Mauna Lani BayResort (& 808/885-6622; www.maunalaniculture.org/twilight). Ithearkens back to another time inHawaii when family and neighborswould gather on back porches tosing, dance, and “talk story.” See the

box “Old-Style Hawaiian Entertain-ment,” in chapter 5.

• Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s MostSacred Temple (Big Island): On theKohala Coast, where King Kame-hameha the Great was born, standsHawaii’s oldest, largest, and mostsacred religious site: the 1,500-year-old Mo’okini Heiau, used by kings topray and offer human sacrifices. Thismassive three-story stone temple,dedicated to Ku, the Hawaiian god ofwar, was erected in A.D. 480. It’s saidthat each stone was passed from handto hand from Pololu Valley, 14 milesaway, by 18,000 men who workedfrom sunset to sunrise. The best wayto see this sacred site is to help outwith the monthly cleanups when theKahuna Nui (high priestess), MomiMo’okini Lum, is on-site. See p. 322.

• Hunting for Petroglyphs (Big Island):Archaeologists are still uncertainexactly what these ancient rock carvings—the majority of which arefound in the 233-acre Puako Petro-glyph Archaeological District, nearMauna Lani Resort on the KohalaCoast—mean. The best time to huntfor these intricate depictions ofancient life is either early in themorning or late afternoon, when theangle of the sun lets you see the formsclearly. See “Kohala Coast Petro-glyphs,” under “Seeing the Sights,” inchapter 5.

• Exploring Puuhonua O HonaunauNational Historical Park (BigIsland): This sacred site on the SouthKona Coast was once a place ofrefuge and a revered place of rejuve-nation. You can walk the same conse-crated grounds where priests onceconducted holy ceremonies andglimpse the ancient way of life in pre-contact Hawaii in the re-created 180-acre village. See p. 320.

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• Visiting the Most Hawaiian Isle: Atime capsule of old Hawaii, Molokaiallows you to experience real Hawai-ian life in its most unsullied form.The island’s people have woven the

cultural values of ancient times intomodern life. In addition to this richcommunity, you’ll find the magnifi-cent natural wonders it so cherishes:Hawaii’s highest waterfall, its greatest

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The Welcoming Lei

There’s nothing like a lei. The stunning tropical beauty of the delicate gar-land, the deliciously sweet fragrance of the blossoms, the sensual way theflowers curl softly around your neck. There’s no doubt about it: Getting lei’din Hawaii is a sensuous experience.

Leis are much more than just a decorative necklace of flowers; they’realso one of the nicest ways to say hello, goodbye, congratulations, I saluteyou, my sympathies are with you, or I love you. The custom of giving leis canbe traced back to Hawaii’s very roots; according to chants, the first lei wasgiven by Hiiaka, the sister of the volcano goddess Pele, who presented Pelewith a lei of lehua blossoms on a beach in Puna.

During ancient times, leis given to alii (high-ranking chiefs) were accompa-nied by a bow, since it was kapu (forbidden) for a commoner to raise his armshigher than the king’s head. The presentation of a kiss with a lei didn’t comeabout until World War II; it’s generally attributed to an entertainer whokissed an officer on a dare and then quickly presented him with her lei, say-ing it was an old Hawaiian custom. It wasn’t then, but it sure caught on fast.

Lei making is a tropical art form. All leis are fashioned by hand in a vari-ety of traditional patterns; some are sewn with hundreds of tiny blooms orshells, or bits of ferns and leaves. Some are twisted, some braided, somestrung; all are presented with love. Every island has its own special flowerlei—the lei of the land, so to speak. On Oahu the choice is ilima, a smallorange flower. Big Islanders prefer the lehua, a large, delicate red puff. OnMaui it’s the lokelani, a small rose; on Kauai, it’s the mokihana, a fragrantgreen vine and berry; on Molokai it’s the kukui, the white blossom of a can-dlenut tree; and on Lanai it’s the kaunaoa, a bright yellow moss. Residentsof Niihau use the island’s abundant seashells to make leis that were onceprized by royalty and are now worth a small fortune.

Leis are available at all of the islands’ airports. Other places to get wonder-ful, inexpensive leis are the half-dozen lei shops on Maunakea Street in Hon-olulu’s Chinatown, and Greene Acres Leis (& 808/329-2399), off KaimiminaniDrive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, across from the Kona InternationalAirport on the Big Island. If you plan ahead, you can also arrange to have alei-greeter meet you and your travel party as you deplane; Greeters of Hawaii(& 800/366-8559, 808/836-0161, or 808/836-3246) serves Honolulu, Kona (onthe Big Island), Kahului (Maui), and Lihue (Kauai) airports.

Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: They’re given in the momentand their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but even afterthey fade, their spirit of aloha lives on. Welcome to Hawaii!

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collection of fish ponds, and theworld’s tallest sea cliffs, as well as sanddunes, coral reefs, rainforests, and

gloriously empty beaches. The islandis pretty much the same Molokai ofgenerations ago. See chapter 7.

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• Halekulani (Oahu; & 800/367-2343; www.halekulani.com): Whenprice is no object, this is really theonly place to stay. An oasis of calmamid the buzz, this beach hotel is thefinest Waikiki has to offer (heck, Ithink it’s the finest in the state). Evenif you don’t stay here, pop by for asunset mai tai to hear Sonny Kame-hele sing the old hapa-haole tunes ofthe 1930s and 1940s while a lovelyhula dancer sways to the music. Seep. 119.

• Royal Hawaiian (Oahu; & 800/325-3535; www.sheraton.com): Thisflamingo-pink oasis, hidden awayamong blooming gardens within theconcrete jungle of Waikiki, is a sym-bol of luxury. You can step back intime by staying in the rooms in theHistoric Wing, which contain carvedwooden doors, four-poster canopybeds, flowered wallpaper, and periodfurniture. One of Waikiki’s best spas,Abhasa (& 808/922-8200; www.abhasa.com), is located on the prop-erty. See p. 121.

• Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu; & 800/367-2525; www.kahalaresort.com): After 11 years under the helmof the Mandarin Oriental Group, thisgrand old hotel changed manage-ment firms in 2006. The new firmpromised to restore this elegant prop-erty to what it once was. The locationalone offers a similarly wonderfulcompromise: Situated in one ofOahu’s most prestigious residentialareas, the Kahala offers the peace andserenity of a neighbor-island vaca-tion, but with the conveniences ofWaikiki just a 10-minute drive away.The lush, tropical grounds include an

800-foot crescent-shaped beach and a26,000-square-foot lagoon (home totwo bottle-nosed dolphins, sea tur-tles, and tropical fish). See p. 135.

• Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bunga-lows (Big Island; & 800/367-2323;www.maunalani.com): Burned out?In need of tranquillity and gorgeoussurroundings? Look no further. Sandybeaches and lava tide pools are thefocus of this serene seaside resort,where gracious hospitality is dis-pensed in a historic setting. From thelounge chairs on the pristine beach tothe turndown service at night, every-thing here is done impeccably. Therooms are arranged to capture maxi-mum ocean views, and they surroundinterior atrium gardens and pools inwhich endangered baby sea turtles areraised. A shoreline trail leads acrossthe whole 3,200-acre resort, givingyou an intimate glimpse into theancient past, when people lived inlava caves and tended the large com-plex of fish ponds. See p. 262.

• Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at His-toric Kaupulehu (Big Island; & 888/340-5662; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): Private pools, unimpededocean views, excellent food, and a new18-hole championship golf course—what more could any mortal want?This new low-impact, high-tickethideaway under the dormant HualalaiVolcano ups the ante with its residen-tial resort of two-story bungalows clus-tered around five seaside swimmingpools on a black lagoon. See p. 252.

• Hotel Hana-Maui (Maui; & 800/321-HANA; www.hotelhanamaui.com): Picture Shangri-La, Hawaiian-style: 66 acres rolling down to the sea

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in a remote Hawaiian village, with awellness center, two pools, and accessto one of the best beaches in Hana.Cathedral ceilings, a plush featherbed, a giant-size soaking tub, Hawai-ian artwork, bamboo hardwoodfloors—this is luxury. The white-sandbeach (just a 5-min. shuttle away), atop-notch wellness center with someof the best massage therapists inHawaii, and numerous activities(horseback riding, mountain biking,tennis, pitch-and-putt golf ) all addup to make this one of the top resortsin the state. I highly recommend thislittle slice of paradise. See p. 394.

• The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui(Maui; & 800/659-4100; www.fairmont.com/kealani): This is theplace to get your money’s worth: Forthe price of a hotel room, you get anentire suite—plus a few extras. Eachunit in this all-suite luxury hotel hasa kitchenette, a living room withentertainment center and sofa bed(great if you have the kids in tow), amarble wet bar, an oversize marblebathroom with separate shower bigenough for a party, a spacious bed-room, and a large lanai that overlooksthe pools, lawns, and white-sandbeach. See p. 387.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea(Maui; & 800/334-MAUI; www.fourseasons.com/maui): This is theultimate beach hotel for latter-dayroyals, with excellent cuisine, spa-cious rooms, gracious service, andWailea Beach, one of Maui’s bestgold-sand strips, out the front door.Every guest room has at least a partialocean view from a private lanai. Theluxury suites, as big as some Hon-olulu condos, are full of marble anddeluxe appointments. See p. 388.

• The Lodge at Molokai Ranch(Molokai; & 888/627-8082; www.molokairanch.com): This quaint

22-room inn in Maunaloa sits on 8nicely landscaped acres in the rollinghills of Maunaloa town. Designed toresemble a 1930s-style Hawaii ranchowner’s private home, the Lodge fea-tures a giant fireplace, huge woodenbeam construction, panoramic views,and lots of details (cuffed cowboyboots beside the door, old books lin-ing the shelves) to make it look andfeel like a real ranch. Guests step backin time to a Hawaii of yesteryear. Thebeach is 6 miles and about a 20-minute car ride away. See p. 488.

• Four Seasons Resort Lana’i at ManeleBay (Lanai; & 800/321-4666; www.fourseasons.com/lanai): The well-known luxury hotel chain Four Sea-sons took over management of this236-unit resort after a multimillion-dollar makeover in 2005. Perched ona sun-washed southern bluff over-looking Hulopoe Beach, one ofHawaii’s best stretches of goldensand, this U-shaped hotel steps downthe hillside to the pool and the beach.Designed as a traditional luxurybeachfront hotel, the Manele Bay fea-tures open, airy, oversize rooms, eachwith a breath-taking view of the bigblue Pacific. The guest rooms havebeen redone in a clean, crisp style ofan elegant oceanside Hawaiian resortwith 40-inch, flatscreen LCD TVs,huge marble bathrooms, and semipri-vate lanais. See p. 520.

• Four Seasons Resort Lana’i TheLodge at Koele (Lanai; & 800/321-4666; www.fourseasons.com/lanai):The sister hotel to Manele Bay (seeabove), this luxury resort was reno-vated and rebranded a Four Seasonsin 2006. A $50-million renovationgave all 102 guest rooms new carpet-ing, glass bath partitions, signatureFour Seasons beds, 42-inch LCDflatscreen TVs, new furniture, newfabrics, and high-speed Internet. This

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small inn, which resembles a grandEnglish country estate, was built in1991 and needed the renovation—thenew look is spectacular. See p. 521.

• Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa(Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT; www.kauai.hyatt.com): This Art Decobeach hotel recalls Hawaii in the1920s—before the crash—when gen-tlemen in blue blazers and ladies insummer frocks came to the islands tolearn to surf and play the ukulele.The hotel’s architecture and location,on the sunny side of Kauai, make thisthe island’s best hotel. The beach is abit too rough for swimming, but thesaltwater swimming pool is thebiggest on the island. An old-fash-ioned reading room by the sea housesclub chairs, billiards, and a bar well

stocked with cognac and port. Nearbydiversions include golf, horsebackriding, and the shops of Koloa, a for-mer plantation town. See p. 547.

• Princeville Resort Kauai (Kauai; & 800/826-4400; www.princeville.com): This palace of green marbleand sparkling chandeliers recallsHawaii’s monarchy period of the19th century. It’s set in one of themost remarkable locations in theworld, on a cliff between the crystal-blue waters of Hanalei Bay andsteepled mountains; you arrive on theninth floor and go down to get to thebeach. Opulent rooms with magnifi-cent views and all the activities ofPrinceville and Hanalei make thisone of Hawaii’s finest resorts. See p. 560.

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• New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel(Oahu; & 800/356-8264; www.kaimana.com): This is one of Waikiki’sbest-kept secrets: a boutique hotelnestled right on a lovely stretch ofbeach at the foot of Diamond Head,with Kapiolani Park just across thestreet. The Waikiki-side guest roomsare teeny-tiny, with barely room fortwo, but are tastefully decorated andopen onto lanais with ocean and parkviews (plus they start at just $150 anight). A good budget buy is thepark-view studio with kitchen. Youcan stock up with provisions from theon-site Mini-Mart. See p. 131.

• Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (Oahu; & 866/638-8229; www.keikibeach.com): This collection of studio, one-,and two-bedroom cottages snuggledon a large lot with its own 200-footstretch of white-sand beach betweentwo legendary surf spots (WaimeaBay and Banzai Pipeline) has beentotally renovated to the tune of $1

million. Most units are compact—the kitchens and living rooms aresmall and the bedrooms evensmaller—but they’re affordable, withrates starting at $120 a night. Andwith the ocean just outside, howmuch time are you going to spendinside anyway? The winter waves aretoo rough for most swimmers, butthere’s a large lava reef nearby withtide pools to explore and, on theother side, Shark’s Cove, a relativelyprotected snorkeling area. Nearby aretennis courts and a jogging path. Allunits have full kitchens and their ownbarbecue areas. See p. 139.

• Holualoa Inn (Big Island; & 800/392-1812; www.holualoainn.com):The quiet, secluded setting of thisB&B—on 40 pastoral acres just offthe main drag of the artsy village ofHolualoa, 1,350 feet above Kailua-Kona—provides stunning panoramicviews of the entire coast. This con-temporary 7,000-square-foot Hawaiian

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home built of golden woods has sixprivate suites (starting at $225) andwindow-walls that roll back toembrace the gardens and views. Cowsgraze on the bucolic pastures belowthe garden Jacuzzi and pool, and thecoffee plantation on the property isthe source of the morning brew. Seep. 257.

• Kona Tiki Hotel (Big Island; & 808/329-1425; www.konatiki.com): Righton the ocean, away from the hustleand bustle of downtown Kailua-Kona, is one of the hottest budgetdeals in Hawaii: tastefully decoratedrooms with private lanais overlookingthe ocean, starting at just $66 a night!Although it’s called a hotel, thissmall, family-run operation is morelike a large B&B, with plenty offriendly conversation around thepool at the morning continentalbreakfast buffet. See p. 256.

• Waipio Wayside B&B Inn (Big Island;& 800/833-8849; www.waipiowayside.com): Jackie Horne renovatedthis 1938 Hamakua sugar supervi-sor’s home—nestled among fruittrees and surrounded with sweet-smelling ginger, fragile orchids, andblooming birds of paradise—andtransformed it into a gracious B&B.Just minutes from the Waipio ValleyLookout and Honokaa village, thiscomfy five-bedroom house aboundswith thoughtful touches, such as ahelp-yourself tea-and-cookies barwith 26 different kinds of tea. Jackie’sfriendly hospitality and excellent con-tinental breakfasts really round outthe experience. Rooms start at $99for two. See p. 267.

• Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono(Maui; & 800/305-4899; www.mauiinn.com): This 1924 former planta-tion manager’s home, lovingly restored,offers a genuine old Hawaii experi-ence. The theme is Hawaii of the

1920s and 1930s, with decor, design,and landscaping to match. The spa-cious rooms are gorgeously outfittedwith exotic ohia-wood floors, highceilings, and traditional Hawaiianquilts. A full gourmet breakfast isserved on the enclosed back lanai or,if you prefer, delivered to your room.The inn is located in the old historicarea of Wailuku, about 10 to 15 min-utes to the beach. Once you settle in,you may not want to leave—and withrooms starting at $140 for a double,you can afford to stay a while. See p. 366.

• Pineapple Inn Maui (Maui; & 877/212-MAUI [6284]; www.pineappleinnmaui.com): This charming inn(only four rooms, plus a cottage) isnot only an exquisite find, but a ter-rific value. Located in the residentialMaui Meadows area, with panoramicocean views, this two-story inn isexpertly landscaped in tropical flow-ers and plants with a lily pond in thefront and a giant saltwater pool andJacuzzi overlooking the ocean. Eachof the soundproof rooms is expertlydecorated with a small kitchenette, acomfy bed, free wireless Internetaccess, TV/VCR, and an incredibleview off your own private lanai.Prices start at $109. If you need moreroom, they also offer a darling two-bedroom, one-bathroom cottage. Seep. 385.

• Dunbar Beachfront Cottages (Molo-kai; & 800/673-0520; www.molokai-beachfront-cottages.com): Each ofthese green-and-white plantation-style cottages sits on its own secludedbeach—you’ll feel like you’re on yourown private island. Impeccable decor,a magical setting, and reasonablerates ($170 for two) make these cot-tages a must-stay. See p. 491.

• Hotel Lanai (Lanai; & 800/795-7211; www.hotellanai.com): Lanai’s

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only budget lodging is a simple,down-home, plantation-era relic thathas recently been Laura Ashley–ized.The Hotel Lanai is homey, funky,and fun—and, best of all, a real bar-gain (starting at $125 for two) com-pared to its ritzy neighbors. See p. 521.

• Hanalei Surf Board House (Kauai;808/826-9825; www.hanaleisurfboardhouse.com): Book well in advance—this place is so fabulous, it will gofast! Just a block from the beach,these two incredibly decorated studiounits are a steal at $150. Host SimonPotts, a former record company exec-utive from England, has filled his two studios (with kitchenettes) withimaginative decor choices: One ofthem sports a whimsical cowgirltheme, the other is filled with ElvisPresley memorabilia. But the bestreason to stay here (besides the 2-min. walk to the beach or a 10-min.

walk to downtown Hanalei) is Simonhimself—his stories about the recordindustry will keep you howling withlaughter for hours. See p. 563.

• Kauai Country Inn (Kauai; & 808/821-0207; www.kauaicountryinn.com): This old-fashioned countryinn, nestled in the rolling hills behindKapaa, seems too good to be true.Each of the four suites (starting atjust $99) is uniquely decorated inHawaiian Art Deco, complete withhardwood floors, private bathrooms,kitchen or kitchenette, your owncomputer with high-speed Internetconnection, and lots of little extraamenities. Everything is top-drawer,from the furniture to the Sub-Zerorefrigerator. They recently added atwo-bedroom country cottage forfamilies with young children. Thegrounds are immaculate, and you canpick as much organic fruit as youwant. See p. 558.

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• Hilton Hawaiian Village BeachResort & Spa (Oahu; & 800/HILTONS; www.hawaiianvillage.hilton.com): The Rainbow Express,Hilton’s year-round daily program ofactivities for children ages 5 to 12,offers a wide range of educational andfun activities for $56 a day, includinglunch. Everything about this hotel iskid-friendly, from the wildlife parad-ing about the grounds to the subma-rine dives offered just out front. Inthree of the resort’s restaurants, kidsages 4 to 11 eat free. See p. 114.

• J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spaat Ko Olina Resort (Oahu; & 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): Thisresort on Oahu’s virgin leeward coastis a haven of relaxation and tropicalfun for travelers of all ages. The KeikiBeachcomber Club, for children ages5 to 12, is available daily. Activities

(9am–3pm) range from kite-flying,tide-pool exploration, and snorkelingto Hawaiian cultural activities. Thecost is $58 per child. See p. 140.

• Kona Village Resort (Big Island; & 800/367-5290; www.konavillage.com): This is a parent’s dream: cus-tom-designed programs to entertainyour kids, from tots to teenagers,from dawn to well after dusk, all atno charge. There’s even a dinner seat-ing for children, so Mom and Dadcan enjoy an intimate dinner for twolater in the evening. See p. 252.

• The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii (BigIsland; & 800/845-9905; www.fairmont.com/orchid): The KeikiAloha program, for kids 5 to 12 yearsold, features supervised activities fromwatersports to Hawaiian culturalgames for $85 for the full day. Theresort has some great money-saving

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deals; for example, children 5 andunder eat free at various restaurantsin the resort. See p. 263.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea(Maui; & 800/334-MAUI; www.fourseasons.com/maui): The most kid-friendly hotel on Maui not onlyoffers a complimentary kids programyear-round and an everyday activitiescenter (daily 9am–5pm), but alsomakes children feel welcome withextras such as complimentary milkand cookies on their first day andchildren’s menus at all resort restau-rants and even from room service. Seep. 388.

• Hyatt Regency Maui (Maui; & 800/233-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com):The Camp Hyatt program, for kids 5to 12 years old, operates daily from9am to 3pm and offers young guestsa range of activities, from “OlympicGames” to a scavenger hunt. The costis $65 to $80 for a full day. See p. 371.

• Aloha Beach House (Molokai; & 888/828-1008; www.molokaivacation.com): This Hawaiian-stylebeach house sits right on the white-sand beach of Waialua on the lushEast End. Perfect for families, this

impeccably decorated, two-bedroom,1,600-square-foot beach house has ahuge, airy living/dining/kitchen areathat opens out to an old-fashionedporch perfect for meals or just sittingin the comfy chairs and watching theclouds roll by. It’s fully equipped,from the complete kitchen to a VCR(and library of videos), to all thebeach toys you can think of. A familyof five can stay here for just $240 to$280. See p. 490.

• Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa(Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT; www.kauai.hyatt.com): In addition to theCamp Hyatt program (for kids 3–12;$70 for a full day), it’s the collectionof swimming pools—freshwater andsalt, with slides, waterfalls, and secretlagoons—that makes this oceanfrontHyatt a real kids’ paradise. Duringthe summer months and the holidayseason, there’s Rock Hyatt, an activityroom for teens to gather in and playelectronic games. Summertime alsoboasts Family Fun Theatre Nights,when the whole family can enjoy ashowing of one of the more than 400movies filmed on Kauai. See p. 547.

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• SpaHalekulani, Halekulani hotel(Oahu; & 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): This is Waikiki’sfirst spa to explore the healing tradi-tions of the Pacific islands, as well asHawaii. Like everything else at thetop-rated Halekulani hotel, the spa istruly a heavenly experience, from thetime you step into the elegantlyappointed, intimate spa and experi-ence the foot massage to the last whiffof fragrant maile, their signaturescent. Spa connoisseurs should trysomething unique, like the Polyne-sian Nonu, a Samoan-inspired mas-sage using stones. See p. 119.

• Spa Suites at the Kahala (Oahu; & 808/739-8938): The Kahala hastaken the concept of spa as a journeyinto relaxation to a new level, withformer garden rooms converted toindividual spas, each with a glass-enclosed shower, private changingarea, infinity-edge deep soakingJacuzzi tub, and personal relaxationarea. No detail is overlooked, from thewarm foot bath when you arrive tothe refreshing hot tea served on yourpersonal enclosed garden lanai afteryour relaxation treatment. See p. 135.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650; www.turtlebayresort.com):

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This Zen-like spa positioned on theground floor facing the ocean has sixtreatment rooms, a meditation wait-ing area, an outdoor workout area,plus a complete fitness center and aprivate elevator to the rooms on thesecond floor, reserved for guests get-ting spa treatments. See p. 138.

• Ihilani Spa at the J. W. Marriott Ihi-lani Resort & Spa (Oahu; & 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): Anoasis by the sea, this free-standing35,000-square-foot facility is dedi-cated to the traditional spa definitionof “health by water.” This modern,multistoried spa, filled with floor-to-ceiling glass looking out on greentropical plants, combines Hawaiianproducts with traditional therapies toproduce some of the best water treat-ments in the state. You’ll also find afitness center, tennis courts, and abevy of aerobic and stretching classes.See p. 140.

• Hualalai Sports Club and Spa atFour Seasons Resort Hualalai atHistoric Kaupulehu (Big Island; & 888/340-5662; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): It’s easy to see why some6,000 Condé Nast readers voted this13,000-square-foot facility theirfavorite resort spa. Five of its 16 treat-ment rooms are thatched huts (withbamboo privacy screens) nestled intoa tropical garden. This is the place tocome to be pampered. The fitnessfacilities, classes, and adventure activ-ities are all excellent, but the attentiveservice and dreamy spa facilities arewhat you will remember long afteryour vacation. See p. 252.

• Kohala Spa at the Hilton WaikoloaVillage (Big Island; & 800/HILTONS; www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com): The Big Island’s oldest(since 1989) spa has something foreveryone, including 33 treatmentrooms, 50 classes, and a variety ofsports ranging from racquetball to

indoor rock climbing. Treatments areon the cutting edge and include suchunique therapies as acupuncturefacials and astrological readings.Spend the day luxuriating in the lavawhirlpool, steam room, and saunabefore or after your treatment. See p. 264.

• Spa Grande at the Grand WaileaResort Hotel & Spa (Maui; & 800/888-6100; www.grandwailea.com):This is Hawaii’s biggest spa, at50,000 square feet, with 40 treatmentrooms. The spa incorporates the bestof the Old World (romantic ceilingmurals, larger-than-life Roman-stylesculptures, mammoth Greek columns,huge European tubs), the finest East-ern traditions (a full Japanese-styletraditional bath and various exotictreatments from India), and the lureof the islands (tropical foliage, ancientHawaiian treatments, and islandproducts). This spa has everythingfrom a top fitness center to a menu ofclasses and is constantly on the cuttingedge of the latest trends. See p. 388.

• The Spa at Four Seasons ResortMaui at Wailea (Maui; & 800/334-MAUI; www.fourseasons.com/maui):This relaxing oasis in the luxurious FourSeasons offers a menu of pampering—traditional Hawaii massage to Ayur-vedic, plus Vichy shower treatments,body wraps, body scrubs, facials, evenocean aquacranial massage for theultimate in relaxation. You don’t justget a massage here; you can choosefrom a list of therapies: hot stone,reiki, jin shin do, Swedish, aroma-therapy, shiatsu, reflexology, and Thai.See p. 388.

• Spa Moana at the Hyatt RegencyMaui (Maui; & 800/233-1234;www.maui.hyatt.com): You cannotmatch the location—this is Hawaii’sonly oceanfront spa. The 20,000-square-foot spa houses 15 relaxing

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treatment rooms and features one ofthe island’s best full-service fitnesscenters, plus a relaxation lounge, aromantic couples’ treatment room, asalon/retail shop, and new treatmentsfor kids and teenagers. See p. 371.

• Spa Kea Lani at The Fairmont KeaLani Maui (Maui; & 800/659-4100;www.fairmont.com/kealani): Come tothis intimate Art Deco boutique spa

(just a little over 5,000 sq. ft., withnine treatment rooms) for personaland private attention. The fitnesscenter is just next door. See p. 387.

• ANARA Spa at the Grand HyattKauai Resort & Spa (Kauai; & 808/240-6440; www.anaraspa.com): Comehere to get rid of stress and to besoothed and pampered in a Hawaiianatmosphere, where the spirit of aloha

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Pampering in Paradise

Hawaii’s spas have raised the art of relaxation and healing to a new level.The traditional Greco-Roman-style spas have evolved into airy, open facili-ties that embrace the Tropics. Spa-goers in Hawaii want to hear the soundof the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. Theywant to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments they canget only here.

Today’s spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Massage optionsinclude Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aromatherapy, craniosacral (massag-ing the head), shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncturepoints), Thai (another oilless massage involving stretching), and hot stone.There are even side-by-side massages for couples, and duo massages—twomassage therapists working on you at once.

Body treatments, for the entire body or just the face, involve a variety ofherbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweedto salt to mud, with or without accompanying aromatherapy.

After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array ofwater treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assort-ment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range ofalternative healthcare like acupuncture and chiropractic, and more exotictreatments like ayurvedic and siddha from India or reiki from Japan. Someoffer cutting-edge treatments, like the Grand Wailea Resort’s full-spectrumcolor-light therapy pod (based on NASA’s work with astronauts).

Spas also offer a range of fitness facilities (weights, racquetball, tennis,golf) and classes (yoga, aerobics, spinning, tai chi, kickboxing). Several evenoffer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling). For the lessactive, most spas have salons dedicated to hair and nail care.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. Massages are gener-ally $150 to $250 for 50 minutes and $250 to $295 for 80 minutes; bodytreatments are in the $150-to-$250 range; and alternative healthcare treat-ments can be as high as $200 to $300. But you may think it’s worth theexpense to banish your tension and stress.

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reigns. An elegant 25,000-square-foot spa, ANARA (A New AgeRestorative Approach) focuses onHawaiian culture and healing, withsome 16 treatment rooms, a lap pool,fitness facilities, lava rock showersthat open to the tropical air, outdoor

whirlpools, a 24-head Swiss shower,Turkish steam rooms, Finnish saunas,and botanical soaking tubs. Recentrenovations make this spa even moreserene and relaxing. The four-handedmassage (two therapists at once) isnot be missed. See p. 547.

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• Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, thequeen of fruit in Indonesia, is thesensation at the Hilo Farmers Marketon the Big Island. Mangosteen’s ele-gant purple skin and soft, white, flo-ral-flavored flesh (like litchi, butmore custardlike) make this fruit asure winner.

The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring andsummer. Hayden mangoes are uni-versally loved for their plump, juicyflesh and brilliant skins. WhitePiries, with their resinous flavor andfine, fiberless flesh, are even better;this rare and ambrosial variety can befound in Honolulu’s Chinatown or atroadside fruit stands in rural Oahu.Watch for the Rapoza, a new large,sweet, fiberless mango introduced toHawaii several years ago.

Kahuku papayas—firm, fleshy,dark orange, and so juicy they some-times squirt—are the ones to watchfor on menus and in markets; checkout the roadside stands in Kahuku onOahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrisepapayas from Kapoho and Kauai arealso top-notch.

White, acid-free, extra-sweet, andgrown on Kauai and the Big Island,Sugarloaf pineapples are the newrage. Hilo is the town for litchis (alsoknown as lychees) in summer, butHonolulu’s Chinatown markets carrythem, too. Ka’u oranges, grown inthe volcanic soil of the southern BigIsland, are available in supermarkets

and health-food stores. Don’t befooled by their brown, ugly skin—they’re juicy, thin-skinned, and sweetas honey.

• Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho,pasta, chow mein—Hawaii is the epi-center of ethnic noodle stands andhouses, with many recommendableand inexpensive choices. Jimbo’sRestaurant (Oahu; & 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is topsfor freshly made udon with generoustoppings and a homemade broth (p. 164). On the neighbor islands,noodle-mania prevails at Hamura’sSaimin Stand (Kauai; & 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyaki stickshave replaced hamburgers and pizzaas the late-night comfort-food tradi-tion (p. 566). Nori’s Saimin & Snacks(Big Island; & 808/935-9133) is theplace in charming Hilo for consum-mate saimin of every stripe (p. 293).

• Plate Lunches: Zippy’s (21 locationsthroughout Oahu; call & 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you) is ahousehold word in Hawaii. Otherfavorite plate-lunch spots on Oahuinclude Kakaako Kitchen (& 808/596-7488), Ward Centre (p. 233),serving dinner at indoor and outdoortables; I ♥ Country Cafe (& 808/596-8108); and Yama’s Fish Market(& 808/941-9994), where the choco-late/macadamia nut cookies andchocolate biscotti have legions of fans.On Maui, Pauwela Cafe (& 808/575-9242; p. 420) serves gourmet

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feasts from a tiny kitchen, and AlohaMixed Plate (& 808/661-3322; p. 405) lets you nosh on fabulousshoyu chicken at ocean’s edge—andwith a mai tai, too. On Kauai, PonoMarket (& 808/822-4581; p. 567),Fish Express (& 808/245-9918; p. 566), and Koloa Fish Market (& 808/742-6199; p. 566) are at thetop of the plate-lunch pyramid.

• Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave ice issynonymous with Haleiwa, theNorth Shore Oahu town where Matsumoto Shave Ice (& 808/637-4827; p. 223) serves mounds of theicy treat. Shave ice is even better overice cream and adzuki beans.

• Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscottifrom the Poi Company, available atsupermarkets and gourmet outlets, isthe consummate accompaniment toanother island phenomenon, Kona

coffee. Coffee growers of highestesteem (all based on the Big Island, ofcourse), include: Rooster Farms(& 808/328-9173), which sells andships only organic coffees; BongBrothers (& 808/328-9289); KonaBlue Sky Coffee Company (& 808/322-1700); Langenstein Farms(& 808/328-8356); and HolualoaKona Coffee Company (& 800/334-0348). See the box “Kona CoffeeCraze!” on p. 281.

The buttery, chocolate-dippedshortbread cookies of Big IslandCandies (Big Island; & 808/935-8890; p. 349) are worth every calorieand every dollar. From Kauai, Hana-pepe town’s venerable Taro Ko tarochips (& 808/335-5586 for the fac-tory; p. 619) are a crunchy snackneighbor islanders drive long miles tofind.

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12 The Best Restaurants• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu;

& 808/949-2526): Master strokes atthis shrine of Hawaii Regional Cui-sine include warm California rollsmade with salmon roe, wasabi, andKona lobster instead of rice; luaulumpia with butterfish and kalua pig;and ginger-crusted fresh onaga.Opihi shooters and day-boat scallopsin season are a must, and grilled lambchops are a perennial special. Themenu changes daily, but the flavorsnever lose their sizzle. See p. 163.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/944-4714): Honolulu isabuzz over the wine pairings and ele-gant cuisine of George Mavrothalas-sitis, the culinary wizard and JamesBeard Award–winner from Provencewho turned La Mer (at the Haleku-lani) and Seasons (at the Four Sea-sons Resort Wailea) into temples offine dining. He brought his award-winning signature dishes with him

and continues to prove his ingenuitywith dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe($66–$93) menus. See p. 162.

• Hoku’s (Oahu; & 808/739-8780):Elegant without being stuffy, and cre-ative without being overwrought, thefine-dining room of the Kahala offerselegant lunches and dinners, and oneof Oahu’s best Sunday brunches. Thisis fusion that really works—Euro-pean finesse with an island touch.The ocean view, open kitchen, andastonishing bamboo floor are stellarfeatures. Reflecting the restaurant’scross-cultural influences, the kitchenis equipped with a kiawe grill, anIndian tandoori oven, and Szechuanwoks. See p. 167.

• La Mer (Oahu; & 808/923-2311):This romantic, elegant dining roomat Waikiki’s Halekulani is the onlyAAA Five-Diamond restaurant in thestate. The second-floor, open-sidedroom, with views of Diamond Head

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and the sound of trade winds rustlingthe nearby coconut fronds, is theepitome of fine dining. Michelinaward–winning chef Yves Garniermelds classical French influences withfresh island ingredients. It’s priceybut worth it. Men are required towear jackets (they have a selection ifyou didn’t pack one). See p. 141.

• 3660 on the Rise (Oahu; & 808/737-1177): Ever since Wine Specta-tor gave this restaurant its “Award ofExcellence,” this place has beenpacked, and with good reason. In his200-seat restaurant, chef Russell Siuadds an Asian or local touch to thebasics: rack of lamb with macadamianuts, filet of catfish in ponzu sauce,and seared ahi salad with grilled shii-take mushrooms, a local favorite. Seep. 165.

• Roy’s Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/396-7697): Good food still reigns atthis busy, noisy flagship dining roomin Hawaii Kai with the trademarkopen kitchen. Roy Yamaguchi’s deftway with local ingredients, nostalgicethnic preparations, and fresh fishmakes his menu, which changes daily,a novel experience every time. See p. 168.

• Merriman’s (Big Island; & 808/885-6822): Chef Peter Merriman, one ofthe founders of Hawaii Regional Cui-sine, displays his creativity at thisWaimea eatery, a premier Hawaiiattraction. Dishes include his signa-ture wok-charred ahi, kung paoshrimp, or lamb from nearby KahuaRanch. His famous platters ofseafood and meats are among themany reasons this is still the best—and busiest—dining spot in Waimea.See p. 286.

• Son’z Maui at Swan Court (Maui;& 808/667-4506; www.sonzmaui.com): For 30 years, the Swan Courtwas the dining experience at theHyatt Regency Maui. When Tri-Star

Restaurant Group CEO Aaron Pla-courakis (who also owns Nick’s Fish-market, see p. 144) took over thisrestaurant, he and executive chefGeno Sarmiento knew they wantedto hit a home run every night withthe cuisine. The restaurant alreadyhad perhaps the most romantic loca-tion in Maui, overlooking a man-made lagoon with white and blackswans swimming by and the rollingsurf of the Pacific in the distance. Theculinary team’s creative dishes, madewith fresh local ingredients (Kulacorn and strawberries, Ono Farmsavocados, Hana hearts of palm, MauiCattle Company beef, fresh Hawai-ian fish, and sweet Maui onions) plustop-notch service and a relaxingatmosphere make this gem one ofMaui’s best restaurants. See p. 406.

• Haliimaile General Store (Maui; & 808/572-2666): Bev Gannon,one of the 12 original HawaiiRegional Cuisine chefs, is still goingstrong at her foodie haven in thepineapple fields. You’ll dine at tablesset on old wood floors under highceilings, in a peach-colored roomemblazoned with works by localartists. Gannon’s Texas roots shinethrough in her food, a blend of eclec-tic American with ethnic touches thatputs an innovative spin on HawaiiRegional Cuisine. See p. 416.

• Pineapple Grill Kapalua (Maui; & 808/669-9600): If you have only1 night to eat on the island of Maui,this is the place to go. In fact, if youeat here at the beginning of yourMaui trip, you are definitely going towant to come back! Executive chefJoey Macadangdang (a protégé ofRoy Yamaguchi of Roy’s Restaurantp. 168), is a genius, combiningAsian/Filipino ingredients into culi-nary masterpieces. You’ll find lots oftasty sandwiches and salads at lunch,and a continental-style breakfast in

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the morning—all served in a veryMaui-like atmosphere overlookingthe rolling hills of the Kapalua GolfCourse out to the Pacific Ocean. Seep. 409.

• Ihilani (Lanai; & 808/565-2296): A number of top Hawaii chefs (suchas Phillippe Padovani and EdwinGoto) have each added a bit of theirown style during their tenure here,but the common denominator is the melding of Mediterranean withIsland cuisine. The result is Lanai’stop gourmet restaurant, in a formalatmosphere with inspiring food. Thelatest incarnation of this classy restau-rant, overlooking the resort and theocean beyond, is traditional Italiancuisine, priced moderately for theFour Seasons Resort Lana’i at ManeleBay. See p. 522.

• Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar(Kauai; & 808/335-5011): This is

one of those places that locals knowabout and generally visitors are notaware of. Nestled in the quaint littletown on the west side of Kauai, thissmall, wholesome cafe boasts a casual,winning ambience and some of themost creative cuisine around. See p. 573.

• Dondero’s (Kauai; & 808/742-1234): If you’re looking for a roman-tic dinner, Dondero’s is hard to beat.Dine either under the stars overlook-ing the ocean or tucked away at anintimate table surrounded by inlaidmarble floors, ornate imported floortiles, and Franciscan murals. You getall this atmosphere plus the best Ital-ian cuisine on the island, served withefficiency. It’s hard to have a badexperience here. Dinners are priceybut worth every penny. See p. 569.

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13 The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails• Duke’s Canoe Club, at the Outrig-

ger Waikiki (Oahu; & 808/922-2268): It’s crowded in the evening,but who can resist Hawaiian musicwith Waikiki sand still on your feet?Come in from the beach or thestreet—it’s always a party at Duke’s.Entertainment here is tops, reachinga crescendo at sunset. See p. 237.

• House Without a Key, at theHalekulani (Oahu; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’s quintessential sunsetoasis offers a view of Diamond Head,great hula and steel-guitar music, andthe best mai tais on the island—allunder a century-old kiawe tree. Evenjaded locals are unable to resist thelure. See p. 237.

• Mai Tai Bar, at the Royal HawaiianHotel (Oahu; & 808/923-7311):This bar without walls is perched afew feet from the sand, with pleasing

views of the south shore and theWaianae Mountains. Surfers andpaddlers ride the waves while Dia-mond Head acquires a golden sunsethalo. Sip a mighty mai tai while Car-men and Keith Haugen serenade you.See p. 237.

• Sunset Lanai Lounge, at the NewOtani Kaimana Beach Hotel (Oahu;& 808/923-1555): The hau treehere shaded Robert Louis Stevensonas he wrote poems to Princess Kaiu-lani; today it frames the ocean viewfrom the Sunset Lanai Lounge. Thislounge is the favorite watering hole ofDiamond Head–area beachgoers,who love Sans Souci beach, the oceanview, the mai tais, and the live musicduring weekend sunset hours. See p. 131.

• Jameson’s by the Sea (Oahu; & 808/637-6272): The mai tais here are

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dubbed the best in surf city, and theview, though not perfect, doesn’thurt, either. Across the street fromthe harbor, this open-air roadsideoasis is a happy stop for North Shorewave-watchers and sunset-savvysightseers. See p. 170.

• Huggo’s on the Rocks (Big Island;& 808/329-1493): Here’s a thatched-bar fantasy that’s really on the rocks.This mound of thatch, rock, andgrassy-sandy ground right next toHuggo’s restaurant is a sunset lover’snirvana. Sip a tropical drink whilereclining on a chaise and nosh onIsland-style appetizers while theocean laps at your feet. See p. 276.

• Beach Tree Bar & Grill, at the FourSeasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island;& 808/325-8000): The bar on thebeach seats only a handful, but therestaurant will accept the overflow.

This is the finest sunset perch inNorth Kona, with consummate peo-ple-watching, tasty drinks, and thegorgeous ocean. The open-air restau-rant, with Hawaiian music and huladancing at sunset, also serves excel-lent fare. See p. 276.

• Kimo’s (Maui; & 808/661-4811):An oceanfront dining room and deck,upstairs dining, and happy-hourdrinks draw a fun-loving Lahainacrowd. Nibble on sashimi or nachosand take in the views of Lanai andMolokai. See p. 404.

• Hula Grill (Maui; & 808/667-6636): Sit outdoors at the BarefootBar, order drinks and macadamia nutand crab won tons, and marvel at thewonders of West Maui, where the sunsets slowly and Lanai looks like agiant whale offshore. It’s simply mag-ical. See p. 407.

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