the burdastyle sewing handbook - excerpt

8/3/2019 The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook - Excerpt

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http://crafternews.crownpublishing.com/http://books.google.com/ebooks?as_brr=5&q=9780307586742http://itunes.apple.com/us/book/isbn9780307586742http://www.indiebound.org/book/9780307586742http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Burdastyle-Sewing-Handbook/Nora-Abousteit/e/9780307586742?isbsrc=Y&cm_mmc=Random%20House-_-RandomHouse.com%20Outbound%20Link-_-RandomHouse.com%20Outbound%20Link-_-RandomHouse.com%20Outbound%20Link,%20AFFILIATES-_-Linkshare-_-VD9*lkiWNd8-_-10:1http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/030758674X?ie=UTF8&tag=randohouseinc-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=030758674X


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Copyright 2011 by

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Potter Craft, an imprint

of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.,

New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

wwww.pottercraft.com

POTTER CRAFT and colophon is a registered trademark

of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Abousteit, Nora.

The BurdaStyle sewing handbook / by Nora Abousteit

with Alison Kelly. 1st ed.

p. cm.

1. Dressmaking. 2. Sewing. I. BurdaStyle, Inc. II. Title.

TT515.A26 2011

646.4dc222011005693

ISBN: 978-0-307-58674-2

Printed in China

Design by Jenny Kraemer

Photography by Isabel Asha Penzlien and Tory Williams

Illustrations by Laura Trevino and Rachel Rymar

Technical writing by Diane Gilleland

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


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CONTENTS

Introduction 7

CHAPTER 1

getting started 9

CHAPTER 2

using patterns 29

CHAPTER 3

lets start sewing 51

CHAPTER 4

the skirt 69

CHAPTER 5

the blouse 87

CHAPTER 6

the dress 113

CHAPTER 7

the coat 141

CHAPTER 8

the bag 171

Resources 196

Glossary 198

Acknowledgments 201

About the Authors 202

About BurdaStyle.com 203

Credits 204

Index 205


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How many times have you tried on a piece of clothing you loved

but the fit was off? Or fell in love with a high-end garment well

out of your price range? Or had a vision of the perfect outfit but

couldnt find it in stores?

The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook, conceived by Nora

Abousteit and coauthored by creative director Alison Kelly,

showcases an eclectic mix of adaptable sewing projects that

embody the quintessence of the BurdaStyle philosophy. We

want this book to serve as the new bible for aspiring fashion

designers, sewing enthusiasts, and motivated DIYers. Packed

with easy-to-follow tutorials and instructional sewing projects,

this book gives you the basic building blocks to begin sewing

and the tools you need to move beyond the basics to designing

and customizing your own wardrobe.

When we launched BurdaStyle in 2007, it was our mission to

create an all-encompassing resource for the fashion and sewing

communities. We saw a gap and we filled it. Before BurdaStyle

there were few places to go for ideas, tutorials, open discus-

sion and, most important, cutting-edge copyright-free sewing

patterns. Sewing (and its sister crafts) was considered by many

to be outdated, something our mothers and grandmothers did

that may have kept us warm in holiday-themed sweaters but

certainly didnt serve the demands of our constantly evolving

sense of style. The proliferation of the DIY philosophy and

the burgeoning popularity of shows like Project Runwayhave

encouraged people to reinvent this craft, and in response,

BurdaStyle has risen to the challenge of keeping pace with thedemands of this savvy audience.

Five years later, the popularity of the website has surpassed

all of our wildest dreams! Our community is made up of more

than half a million active members with more than 250 sewing

clubs throughout the world. The open-source approach invites

users of all skill levels to share their patterns, comments, and

expertise, encouraging others to recognize that creating fash-

ionable, custom-fitted clothing is often much easier than you

think. Some members even conduct virtual sew-alongs on

the site, where participants from all over the globe sew from the

same pattern at the same time, sharing tips and suggestions.

We are constantly amazed at the creativity, individuality, and

versatility of this community.

Designed by BurdaStyles creative team under Alisons

direction, the five paper patterns included in this book con-

stitute an interchangeable and fully customizable wardrobe of

skirt, blouse, dress, coat, and bag. Ten talented independent

designers and skilled BurdaStyle members were handpicked

to create variations based on those original designsresulting

in the fifteen essential sewing projects youll find in the book.

Finally, sixty more BurdaStyle members offered up their own

interpretations of the patterns so that you can see how simple

adjustments such as changing the fabric or the shape of a

sleeve can lead to endless new design possibilities.

Are you someone who has always wanted to sew but never

took the time to learn? Use this book to bring your ideas to life.

Even if you have never threaded a needle or sewn a single stitch,

youre in luck. This handbook contains everything a beginner

needs to know, from setting up a sewing space and identifying

the essential tools to making your first skirt. A glossary at the

back provides sewing terms you might not already be familiar

with. And for you sewing experts out there, this book provides

insight into great techniques (like circular ruffles) and challenges

you to design your own pattern variations. Each project is rated

by skill level, from one to three buttons. One is beginner-friendly,

while three is for more experienced sewers. Whether youre just

starting out or your closet is already full of your own handmadeclothing, this book will introduce you to new ideas.

People who sew know how good it feels to put on that new

dress they just finished; it is an empowering skill to conceive

and design your own look, to be able to say that you made

it yourself. We know this because of the hundreds of projects

enthusiastically uploaded to our site every month. Now we want

you to share in that same enthusiasm that so many of us cher-

ish. We hope that this book will further your passion for creating

and enable you to take the next step into the exciting world of

sewing and fashion design.

INTRODUCTION

7Introduction


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Ulla-Maaria Engestroem in her sewing

studio in Finland.


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Every time we see a great sewing space, we experience

a certain voyeuristic thrill. Oftentimes were amazed by

the clever use of space and savvy layouts many sewers

and designers have created for themselves in their studios, and we

arent ashamed to admit to adopting some of their great ideas in our

very own sewing areas.

In many sewing rooms, you will find an arsenal of sewing tools,

supplies, and accessories. This chapter will introduce you to your new

accomplices in creating your very own customized wardrobe, and willbreak down exactly what youll need to get started. If youve never even

touched a sewing machine, this section will provide you with enough

ammunition to begin with confidence.

GETTING

STARTED

chapter

1


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to begin with, but your focus will be on your current project,

which deserves your undivided attention.

Though it is not mandatory, having a space designated for

sewing can help you stay organized and better accomplish your

sewing projects from start to finish. If you dont have the extra

space for your very own sewing room, dont fret; you just need

to get creative.

Over the years, Alisons sewing spaces have progressed from

kitchen counters to shared art-school spaces, from windowless

closets to her current studio in the former maids quarters of

her home in Brooklyn. No matter where shes setting up shop,

Alisons sewing mantra is clear the clutter before you begin

a new project. We know not everybody has the extra space to

spread out, but really its the preparation that requires the most

space. Alison recommends delegating a large, flat surface for

transferring patterns and for cutting out pieces in fabric. When

it comes time to sew up your creation, you can get by with

setting up your sewing machine on a small desk or tabletop.

For sewing room feng shui, she urges you to put away any

other projects youre working on in order to have a more fruitful

experience. Not only does this create a nice clean slate for you

THE SEWING STUDIO

Above: Hanging shelves, a thread rack, and pegboards attached

to the wall can make a small space feel larger while creating easy

access to your sewing tools and accessories. A clean, flat surface

makes for an ideal patternmaking and cutting table, and the

drawers can hide unwanted clutter.

The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook10


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Baby bottles and o

jam jars make for th

perfect rickrack andnotions containers.

BurdaStyle member Ophelia Ks

sewing supplies stasholdshoeboxeswork great as storage

containers for all of her sewing needs.

1Getting Started


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Scouring thrift

stores and flea

markets for vintage

sewing supplies can

add a retro touch to

your sewing space

and get you somegood deals!

Vintage jars and old

glass dishes make funstorage vessels.



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Since Im a beginner, I dont have a lot

of supplies. I use a vintage desk and

a bookshelf for everything: fabric is inneat stacks, notions are in a big salad

bowl, and tools go in the wrist drawer

of the desk.INDIANA ADAMS, FOUNDER, ADORED AUSTIN

AN D MA DE TH IS / LO VE TH IS

My space generally becomes total chaos

while Im working on a project, but I do

make a point of putting everything back

when Im finished, before I start on the

next project. And everything has a specific

place, so I dont waste time looking forsomething while Im workingassuming

Ive put it away and its not hiding under

a pattern piece or something.LIESL GIBSON, DESIGNER, OLIVER + S AND LISETTE

Getting Started 13


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For starters, we recommend finding a clean, flat surface

for tracing patterns and cutting out fabric, large enough to

fit the pattern sheets included in this book. Many BurdaStyle

members clear off their dining-room tables to spread out their

sewing projectsthis surface is ideal for transferring patterns

to paper and for laying out fabric for cutting. If youre afraid of

damaging a nice tabletop, lay a cutting mat down on top of it or

on the floor, but look out for your spine. Alison once helped sew

part of a garment for a friend whose sewing machine was set up

on her bedroom floorby the time Alison was finished acting

as seamstress-cum-contortionist, her back was killing her! To

save your spine, we highly recommend setting up your sewing

machine on a desk or table and adjusting your seat so that your

arms are at a 90-degree angle to your body.

Youll notice that most sewing machines have a little light

that turns on when your machine does to illuminate your

stitchesbut youll definitely need more light than that to sew.

A bright overhead light, desk lamp, or natural light will help you

see those tiny stitches and seam lines more clearly.

Spread out yourpatterns on a dining-

room or kitchentable for a makeshift

patternmaking

studio.



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Getting Started


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