The Carroll BeeCarroll County Beekeepers Association

October 2018

Message from the President

Summer has ended and we should be well on our way of preparing our colonies for winter. We should have tested for varroa mite counts and treated as necessary. We should be feeding colonies that are light on honey stores 2:1 at this time. Colonies that have sufficient stores should still be fed 1:1 to encourage the queen to keep laying to produce the fat winter bees as late in the year as possible.

I am seeing and hearing about a lot of first-year colonies that were started from nucs in June. Many of these do not look strong enough or built up enough to have a high chance of overwintering. Of course all this will depend on our upcoming Maryland winter, which can never be accurately predicted.

Our upcoming October meeting will feature Bill Sprenkle from Log Cabin Bee Farm in Pennsylvania. Bill came down and spoke to our club a few years ago, and I found him to be very dynamic and entertaining. His presentation will be “Stock Improvement Tips”. After his presentation we will handle CCBA business which will include a recap of Fallfest, a short discussion on November’s potluck and officer elections, a discussion about our club selling flavored honeys with our natural honey at CCBA events as well as other topics.

Hope to see you there,

Larry Truchon

Here’s the Buzz….

Important Dates:

October MeetingWednesday, October 17th @ 7:30pmLOCATION: Bear Branch Nature Center

Maryland State Beekeepers MeetingSaturday, November 17th 8:30am-4pmLOCATION: Maryland Dept. of Agriculture

November MeetingWednesday, November 21st @ 7:30pmLOCATION: Bear Branch Nature CenterPOTLUCK DINNER!OFFICER ELECTIONS!

CCBA meets at 7:30pm the 3rd Wednesday of the month at Bear Branch Nature Center 300 John Owings Road Questions? Comments? Westminster, MD 21158 carrollbeekeepers@gmail.com

Visit our new website! www.carrollcountybeekeepers.orgCheck us out on Facebook! Carroll County Beekeepers Association. Join the page to post photos, articles, ask questions, etc. Anyone can view!

The Maryland State Beekeepers Association Fall Meeting is coming up on Saturday November 17th. Why would I want to attend?By Larry Truchon

• To learn an easy way to raise a few queens called OTS.• To enter a jar of my honey in the MSBA Honey show.• To expand my beekeeping knowledge.• To win a ribbon in the honey show to prove my honey is better than yours.• For the free doughnuts.• To enter my newly designed honey label even though I have never got honey.• To hang out with other beekeepers from across the state.• To "Make CCBA Great Again" and win the most ribbons of any county association.

Learn more by visiting here…. Maryland Beekeepers Association’s homepage!

Honeybees in the NewsWeedkiller weakens bees by messing with their microbiomesPopular Science

Scientists have linked glyphosate, the active ingredient in the popular weed-killer Roundup to problems in the microbiome of honey bees. Read the full story

Older bees influence younger bees to fan wings, cool hive Check it out here!

Bees are dying at an alarming rate. Amsterdam may have the answer.NBC News

Alarm bells are sounding globally over the disappearance of pollinators, but the Dutch capital has proved to be a success story. Read the full story

Bees get hooked on some pesticides the way smokers get hooked on nicotineABC News

A new study may help agriculture industries to use pesticides more responsibly. Read the full story

The Super Bowl of BeekeepingThe New York Times

Almond growing in California is a $7.6 billion industry that wouldn’t be possible without the 30 billion bees (and hundreds of human beekeepers) who keep the trees pollinated — and whose very existence is in peril. Read the full story

Gardening for Bees….. AUTUMN!

Labor Day is considered the unofficial end to summer. Yet here we are seemingly melting in heat and humidity!

Fortunately, cooler days are on the horizon for us and nature. My bees have spent a lot of these hot days bearding,

driven from their abodes by mite treatments and hot, humid conditions. When they are foraging, I know they are

struggling to find food. I’m grateful for some fall food sources in my landscape to keep them somewhat satiated.

The plentiful bright yellow dandelions and white Dutch clover of spring have been kept in check by the bunnies,

perhaps a bit too much to my beekeeping liking at a time of year when each drop of nectar from those little blooms is

desperately needed. My vegetable garden is on its last legs but for the herbs I’ve allowed to flower for pollinators.

Basil, thyme, oregano, lemon balm, anise hyssop and garlic chives are providing food, not for my family as the quality

of the herb decreases when allowed to bloom, but rather for bees and their kin, knowing that ultimately, they provide

food for me and my kin.

Like many of you, I too have been entranced with the miracles of

monarchs again this summer. Most years I let them mostly go on

their own, bringing a few into my protected butterfly habitats to

watch. Last year, I noted many chrysalides that were clear- dark,

folded wings evident, indicating time to emerge, but they never did,

victims of parasitic wasps and other predators. I recognize that it’s

nature’s balance, yet I opted to collect a dozen or so to give them an

advantage, placing them into a netted habitat with clipped milkweed

to once again enjoy the miracle of metamorphosis up close. My

favorite part of this process has always been the release, despite

how amazing the natural manufacture of a cocoon can be or the

seemingly quick work of emerging once the time arrives.

My wildflower patch has seen better days too

at this point. Bee balm and milkweed are

mostly spent. Heavy sunflower heads are

drooping, not looking like much to foragers or

those driving by now but representing a cache

of food for hungry birds and other wildlife. Yet,

I see beauty in this patch for all that it has

provided, splashes of bright colors from zinnias

and cosmos still working hard despite the high

temperatures, food for different life becoming

prevalent in the form of seeds, ripe also in

hope for the future.

By Connie Young

Gardening for bees, cont’d

It is in the release that I’m once again struck by

the importance of fall food sources for our

pollinators. Many of the food sources our

honey bees relish in September are also

important to monarchs and other pollinators.

Where many of my plants are fading, fall

bloomers are taking over, and with each

season, they stake out greater claims that have

proven beneficial to many insects, making the

investment in planting fall native food sources

for pollinators visibly worthwhile.

Showy New England asters and draping

goldenrod, mixed in with resilient coneflower,

zinnia, black-eyed Susan, mountain mint,

hyssop and Joe Pye weed in my pollinator

patches provide rich food sources here in the

late days of summer along with interest in an

otherwise drab landscape. An additional water

source and native bushes make for a rich

habitat for wildlife. Sedums that spent the hot

summer days soaking up sunshine and

developing blooms are beginning to show their

fall colors and welcoming pollinators to their

nectar bounty. I’ve even moved two chairs

over to watch the activity on the evenings I’m

afforded the time, grateful for the effort in

creating these habitats.

What’s growing in your yard? Or rather, what’s not? As I take

stock of my offerings to pollinators each season, I look for gaps.

I’ve already ordered bulbs to plant when it cools off in

anticipation of filling some openings I noticed in late winter and

early spring before the flow began.

As I take stock of my current fall offerings, I again see

opportunities because as a beekeeper, I recognize the

importance of fall food sources. As a monarch groupie, I also

see the need to not just plant more milkweed, but to make sure

I balance that with lots of food sources once they emerge and

fill up for their long treks south. It’s this last point I try to drive

home. This is an area in which we can all help with minimal

effort.

So, by the time you read this, I hope cooler temps have ushered

in that urge to get outside again and explore. In so doing, take

stock of your offerings and consider collecting seeds from spent

plants that could work further in your landscape, planting

something new, maybe even a tree that will benefit future

generations, or considering where and what seeds to sow next

spring that may feed the bees in fall. You will be richly rewarded

with your efforts when you see bees and butterflies feasting at

the banquet you have provided them. Welcome autumn!

New England aster bloom with honey bee and skipper

Goldenrod with honey bee

Just opening Autumn Joy sedum with honey bees

Winter PrepMost discussion at the last meeting dealt with this topic. My original intention was to sent out "minutes" to those who were not able to attend. Then it rained, and rained, and rained. I was bored and decided to expand my write up and include a few more in the distribution.

Attached is what I ended up with when I ran out of steam. I hope you will find this to be a good review of things we should be doing to help our colonies survive the winter.

As always I welcome all questions and suggestions for improvements. If you see something that you believe to be incorrect, please let me know.

Thanks,Larry F

Winter Preparation To paraphrase Master Beekeeper Larry Truchon, “you can’t call yourself a beekeeper until you have successfully overwintered a colony”. There has been considerable dialogue in CCBA meetings about the importance of controlling Varroa Mites so I will not add to the discussion except to again paraphrase Larry, “if you don’t treat for mites, start saving your money to purchase more bees next spring”.

So what can I do to best prepare my colonies for successful overwintering? The standard answer to this question is the answer that applies to many other beekeeping questions: “It depends”. There are too many variables and too many different, but good, techniques. My advice to new beekeepers is to * Read material written by experienced beekeepers * Attend club meetings * Talk to other beekeepers to find what has worked for them * Ask questions * Talk to your mentor * Form your own opinions by drawing upon the knowledge and experience of others, and your own experience

I can’t emphasize enough the importance of reading material from more than one beekeeper, and applying common sense to the author’s experience and opinions. Obviously some winter preparations for beekeepers in Georgia and in Maine will not apply to Carroll County! Some material posted on the Internet isn’t the best source of information. My suggestion is to a least read the following, and I recommend in the order listed.

1. Re-read Chapter 7 (Feeding Bees) and Chapter 8 (Winter/Spring Management) in The Beekeeper’s Handbook that came with the Carroll Community College course. 2. Chapter 13 (Fall and Winter in the Beehive) in Honey Bee Biology, by Dewey Caron with Lawrence Connor. 3. Notes from an Allen Hayes lecture on winter preparation: CCBA Digital Library > Winter Prep > Winter Prep_AllenHayes.pdf. This is an important article because Master Beekeeper Allen is writing from his experiences in our area. None of the other authors are beekeepers in Central Maryland. 4. Read or at least skim the other articles posted in the CCBA Digital Library “Winter Prep” folder. 5. Finally, read Winter Preparation Questions & Answers that follows. These topics are MY OPINION of what I THINK are the most important things to consider in preparing for winter. The answers are based on my experience over the last 8 years.

Winter Prep, Cont’d

Winter Preparation Questions & Answers 1. How many bees are needed for overwintering?

a. About 30K bees in the fall.1 b. 20K – 30K bees.2 c. One deep frame fully covered holds about ½ pound or1750 [emerged] bees.3

i. 30K [emerged] bees cover 17 deep frames or 25.5 mediums ii. 20K [emerged] bees cover 11.4 deep frames or 17 mediums iii. A deep foundation measures 8.5”x16.75” and a medium is 5.625”x16.75”.

Therefore 1 Deep = 1.5 mediums. iv. Capped brood - one deep frame has about 7000 cells and could produce 6K bees. v. One medium frame of capped brood could produce 4K bees.

2. How much honey needed for overwintering? a. Depends on the weather during the winter and in the spring before the dandelions bloom, which is considered the start of the nectar flow. March is known as starvation month because colony populations are increasing in anticipation of the upcoming flow. Bees are more active and consume more stores on the warmer spring days, but a cold late spring delays nectar and pollen producing blooms. More food stores are needed to prevent starvation. b. How much honey in a deep frame? In a medium frame? A conservative estimate would be 6# honey in a deep and 4# honey in a medium. c. A conservative estimate for overwintering in our area is 60 pounds, which is 10 deep frames or 15 medium frames. d. One gallon of sugar syrup will increase the food reserves of a colony by about 7 pounds. (The Beekeeper’s Handbook, p 87)

3. Feed 1:1 or 2:1 syrup? a. Up until the end of September, or very early October, feed 1:1 to stimulate the queen to lay eggs that will produce over-winter bees. b. Then switch to 2 parts sugar to 1 part water to increase food stores. If stores are very light, feed 2:1 sooner. c. Fall feeding attracts yellow jackets and robbers. Reduce entrances to 3”-4”. Smaller entrances or robbing screens will be necessary if robbing occurs. There are several good articles on robbing: CCBA Digital Library > Robbing 4

4. When stop feeding sugar syrup in the fall? When bees stop taking it.

5. What is “emergency winter food”? Pure granulated cane sugar is the best choice. Do not feed fondant made from corn fructose, “raw sugar”, or brown sugar. 4, 7

6. When put on “emergency winter food”? As soon as you stop feeding syrup.

7. When remove “emergency winter food”? When it’s warm enough in spring to switch to syrup. Don’t switch too early because we often get a false spring followed by a couple of weeks of cold rainy weather. When in doubt, feed both sugar and sugar syrup. Stop feeding when honey supers are added.

8. What is “emergency winter food”? Sugar or fondant made from sugar, not corn fructose. 4, 7

9. How do I feed sugar or fondant? a. Sugar – lay newspaper or wax-paper across the top of hive bars and pile sugar on top of paper. An alternate method is to feed with a Candy Board, which is (in my opinion) much better. b. Fondant – add an Imire Shim between top box and inner cover and place a thin block of fondant or No-Cook Bee Candy across the top of hive bars. c. Winter and early spring feeding: put granulated sugar on a square of newspaper on top of frames directly over the cluster, along with a small strip of pollen patty beside the paper.4, 5

10. What is a Candy Board? A box made to feed No-Cook Bee Candy. It fits over the top hive body and under the Inner Cover. Complete information is provided in CCBA Digital Library > Equipment > Candy Bd Feeder.pdf 4

11. What is a Quilt Box? A box that fits on top of the Inner Cover and under the Telescoping cover. Its purpose is to absorb moisture escaping from the hive and it provides insulation on top of the hive. A Quilt Box can be made from a Hive top Feeder or a Ventilation Box. A complete description is given in CCBA Digital Library > Equipment > Candy BdFeeder.pdf 4

12. Pollen Substitute – when and why do I feed it? a. Pollen Substitute is fed after the winter solstice (December 21st) to promote brood rearing so that the colony population peaks at the start of nectar flow. Feed too late and the colony population isn’t at peak for bringing in the most nectar. Feed too early and the population is booming before the flow begins and there is a risk of starvation and a higher risk of swarming. I add a 3”x 6” strip to the candy board in mid-January, placing it on top of the sugar near the large opening in the center. For more information, check out: CCBA Digital Library > Feeding > Pollen patties - when and why.pdf 4 b. In August to mid-September I also feed a small amount of pollen substitute if there isn’t much bee bread in the frames. c. Randy Oliver did a study to determine the “best” pollen substitute. His conclusion – Mann Lake UltraBee. You can read the article in the CCBA Digital Library > Feeding > Comparative Test Of The Pollen Subs.pdf

13. How important is ventilation? Adequate ventilation is critical. Warm moist air rises to the top of the hive where it hits the cold Inner Cover. The moisture condenses on the bottom of the Inner Cover and it “rains” on the bees below, chilling and ultimately killing them.

14. Should hives be insulated or wrapped? In general this isn’t necessary in Maryland if an adequate wind break is provided. A hive exposed on a hilltop w/o a windbreak would benefit from insulation. If you are considering insulation, this article is worth reading: Digital Library > Winter Prep > Hive Insulation.pdf 4 1 Caron D. and Connor L., Honey Bee Biology (2013), p. 209 2 Sammataro, D. and Avitabile, A., The Beekeepers Handbook (4th Edition), p. 100 3 Sammataro, D. and Avitabile, A., The Beekeepers Handbook (4th Edition), p. 110 4 To access folders in the CCBA Digital Library, select http://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4uCC3CyQd7kNllWXzhacV9vSkk?usp=sharing 5 CCBA Digital Library > Winter Prep > Winter Prep_Allen Hayes.pdf 6 CCBA Digital Library > Equipment > Homemade Mouse Guard.pdf 7 CCBA Digital Library > Feeding > Sugar_Fondant_Fructose.pdf September 27, 2018

15. Screened bottom boards – open, closed, or open/closed depending on weather? Every beekeeper has their own opinion on this topic. I close mine unless it’s a very warm day. However, some of my bottom boards are solid. Consider: (a) Do feral hives have screened bottom boards?, and (b) Screened bottom boards were developed as part of Varroa IPM.

16. What about the entrance? a. I keep water in a Boardman feeder all winter using a pint jar about half full. The water will freeze but the jar seldom breaks. Bees need water to process sugar. b. I use a solid block entrance reducer, leaving the entrance open about 4 inches with a mouse guard over the entrance. During the winter I occasionally remove the mouse guard and use a thin stick to remove dead bees. c. If you use a notched entrance reducer, the notch should be up. d. Mouse guards can be purchased or made from ½” hardware cloth thumb-tacked over the entrance 4, 6 or folded into a “V” and pushed into the entrance.

17. When should Mouse Guards be installed? Error on the side of caution and install them as soon as the temperature drops, but no later than the first frost.

18. Notch down or up on inner cover? If the inner cover has a notch, it should be forward (not into the wind) and facing up, but make certain that the telescoping cover is not up against the end of with the notch thereby cutting off ventilation. If no notch, put Popsicle sticks under the front of the inner cover.4, 5 [no need for popsicle sticks if using a Ventilation Box]

19. How should frames be arranged? The short answer is – brood in the lowest box(es), honey on top. From Allen Hayes’ Winter Prep article: 5

a. Move all brood frames into the bottom 2 boxes. Put the darkest comb frames in the bottom box to be culled in the spring. b. Put most pollen-plugged frames in the bottom box (they will be culled in spring) c. Each box should have a least two full frames of capped honey on each end d. The cluster will gravitate to the warm (south) side of the boxes, so put the heaviest frames of honey on that side e. If possible, pull frames with old wax that will be destroyed f. It is easier for the cluster to move up if there is one frame with some open cells of comb g. Top HHHHHHHHHH H= honey, B= brood, P= pollen h. Middle HHHBBBBBHH put extra frames of honey on the warm side (south) of the hive i. Bottom HPBBBBBBPH if possible, these frames have old wax that will be culled in the spring

20. Other resources? CCBA Digital Library > Winter Prep >

“While many of us want to plant trees to provide forage for

our bees or grow some of our own fruit, it’s important to make

sure the tree is planted correctly for long-term success.

The best time to plant your tree is when the tree is dormant from October through April. Unfortunately, it

can be challenging to find trees at a nursery during this time, but there are plenty of bare root nurseries

that will only ship during the dormant season if you have the patience to let the tree grow.

The first thing to do before planting the tree is to find your underground and overhead utilities. You

should call 811 or go to Missutility.com to put in utility marking requests one week before you plan to do

your planting.

Once you have your tree, take it entirely out of its packaging, whether it’s balled and burlapped or in a

container. You want to make sure the roots can grow out into the soil around the hole. If you got a

container grown tree, take your pruners and cut the roots off that are circling so new shoots can grow

outward rather than continuing to circle and strangle the tree. Also, dig to expose the root flare, the

point where the roots separate from the trunk.

Once you have the root flare exposed, you can determine the depth of your hole. The hole should only

be deep enough so that the root flare is at or just above the soil surface. Do not over dig the hole, it can

cause settling and make the tree too deep. The width of the hole should be 1.5 to 2 times

the diameter of the root ball.

Once the hole has been dug, take the side of your shovel and rough up the edges. Digging in our clay-

based soils can glaze the sides, making it difficult for roots and water to leave the new hole.

Now it’s time to put your tree in the hole. Make sure it is standing straight in one direction and ninety

degrees from that direction. Now it’s time to gradually add the soil back into the hole. Make sure to

pack the soil in so there are no air pockets. As you pack it in, make sure to check your tree to see if it is

still standing straight and correct it as needed.

If the tree can stand on its own at this point, you won’t need to stake the tree. If the tree won’t stand,

you can stake it, but make sure the tree is tied loosely with nylon webbing. If you stake, it is important

to remove the stakes after a year so the tree can develop a strong root system and trunk on its own.

Once the tree is done being planted, I like to mulch my trees with 4” or less of hardwood shredded

mulch. This helps retain moisture and adds organic matter to the soil. Just make sure the mulch isn’t

touching the trunk of the tree.

If you are more a visual person, you can watch this short video. https://youtu.be/lYTZ8zhZDu0

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me at a meeting or send me an email

at andyddriscoll@yahoo.com.

Andy Driscoll

ISA-Certified Arborist”

Tree Planting Time!

Help is one click away….By Larry Fritz

I collect beekeeping articles and some of my collection is available on the CCBA Google Drive.

Access the Library by clicking here, or by copying and pasting this link into the URL bar of your browser: http://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4uCC3CyQd7kNllWXzhacV9vSkk?usp=sharing If you receive a message saying to update your browser, and it is up to date, try clearing the cache.

Double click to open the Folder.

Double click to open the article.

Disclaimer: In almost all beekeeping articles some of the material is the author’s opinion and may conflict with what you may have been taught, told, heard, and/or read elsewhere. The reader should do their own research before forming their opinions.

ROBBING Field bees like to rob honey when there is little available nectar. If there is a late frost that delays killing yellow jackets, they too will want help themselves to free honey available in hives. During the fall of 2017 several beekeepers reported colonies that absconded or were totally wiped out from what appeared to be severe yellow jacket attacks. Last year a member who had a hive scale in place saw that colony severely robbed in a matter of a few hours while she was at work. Prevention is critical.

What can be done to prevent or stop robbing? Read the articles in the Library “Robbing” folder. View the video to see robbers in action, and check out the various robbing screens. Remember, narrow entrances are easier to defend. Close them as much as possible without causing congestion.

“WINTER IS COMING” . . . to the Game of Thrones and to Maryland Beekeepers Winter Preparation is underway even though the weather has been sweltering. Queens are laying eggs for over-winter workers and beekeepers are:

ensuring that Varroa Mite counts are within acceptable limits

feeding 1:1 sugar syrup to stimulate egg laying

feeding Pollen Substitute if necessary

arranging frames of honey, pollen and brood

assessing honey stores (40 to 60 # needed)

combining weak colonies with stronger ones

some have re-queened or plan to do so very soon.

Check out the articles in the Library “Winter Prep” folder.

I encourage everyone to subscribe to both of the very excellent beekeeping magazines, American Bee Journal (ABJ)

and Bee Culture, and start your own library of helpful articles. The 1-year cost of ABJ is $28. If you call them, 888-922-

1293, and say that you are a member of CCBA in Maryland, the cost is $23.80. Bee Culture’s cost is $25/year. You can

read both magazines in the Westminster Branch of the CCPL to get an idea of the contents

Apiary Mapping

By Kate Fisher

We will be creating a new apiary map using google map. Participation is voluntary. The purpose of this map is for local beekeepers to see which apiaries are in close proximity to them.

WHAT INFO DO I NEED TO PROVIDE?-Your name OR your apiary name -Exact address of your apiary OR close cross streets -Your email address (for questions from the club only - THIS WILL NOT BE SHARED)

WHO WILL BE ABLE TO SEE THIS INFORMATION?The map will only be visible by the other participants. Once the map is compiled, each participant will receive an email with an access link. Email addresses will not be listed anywhere on the map. Email addresses are being collected in case there are any follow up questions from the CCBA member who is compiling the map. Note that not all map participants will be official CCBA members.

HOW WILL NEWS OF THE MAP'S EXISTENCE BE ADVERTISED?-Email announcement to all CCBA members -CCBA newsletter -CCBA facebook page ***NOTE: The above communications will include info on how to submit information, NOT the link to access the map***

HOW DO I PARTICIPATE?Fill out the data collection form at https://goo.gl/forms/cCor6kA8u6XhhPYW2

CCBA 2018 OFFICERSPresident Larry Truchon ltruchon@comcast.netVice President Russell Sprangel sprangel@comcast.netTreasurer Jody King joseph.king2011@comcast.net Secretary Monica Schmitt littlebitmo@gmail.comThe Carroll Bee Editor Olivia Canfield ocanfield@comcast.net

In my opinion......volunteering at Fallfest is a fun time.

...quarterly newsletters are a good idea.

...the CCBA should not be selling flavored honeys.

Pic of the Month

We want your pics! Please submit your bee picture to the Carroll Bee editor to be included in future publications!

We have an exchange student, Nora, (on right in photo, Jon Kelly on the left) from Kosovo living with us for a year. This is a photo of her learning about our bees, she was very excited about this experience.

~Misti Kelly

Worker Bee Classifieds

FOR SALE - CCBA T-SHIRTS (Navy Blue shown)Short-sleeved navy blue club t-shirts will still be available at meetings Long-sleeved options are also available.The special order color choices are as follows:Short-sleeve - Heather Cardinal Long-sleeve - Navy (same as our short-sleeve club shirts) and Military Green

JOIN THE MARYLAND STATE BEEKEEPERS ASSOCIATIONThe cost is $10/year. Click here for the membership application. The application also gives us an opportunity to donate to MDA’s Apiary Inspection Fund. Donations will help to cover the expenses of our state honeybee colony inspectors who work long hours for low pay. These folks are a beekeeper’s friend! Many other states charge us for their services, but in Maryland it is still free of charge. Our contributions demonstrate to the MDA how we feel about this valuable service, and encourages MDA to retain state funding

Articles & Pictures Wanted!

Please remember this newsletter would not have any content if it weren’t for involved CCBA members! Please don’t hesitate to send in an interesting article, a personal picture, or news you’d like to share about your own apiary. You can email your newsletter submission by the 5th of each month to ocanfield@comcast.net and I will do my best to include it in our monthly newsletter!

Thanks!Olivia