the future of fast fashion

ANALYZING TRENDS | TIM STOCK1

LECTURE NINE The Future of fast fashion


““We are so conformist; nobody is thinking. We are all sucking up stuff; we have been trained to be consumers, and we are all consuming far too much.”


“buy less, choose well, make it last”Vivienne Westwood


““There is much less emphasis on the polished and the perfect. The elitist way of looking on the runway, frankly, seems old fashioned."


“less and less is being done by people who know how to draw and drape fabric”Anna Wintour at the Oxford Union


identitycommodity

context

economics technology society

data

PAST PRESENT FUTURE

descriptive model of critical areas of change

predictive model for forecasting scenarios

patterns

1 2

3 prescriptive model for innovation platforming to these emerging scenarios

scenarios

patterns

sourcing trends to analyze how

consumption is shifting

ANALYZING TRENDS | TIM STOCK

Source: Boston Consulting, US Bureau of Labor Statistics; American Apparel & Footwear Association.

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Nashville Fashion Alliance member, Otis James in his workshop in the old Marathon Motor Works building. the context of economics in fast FASHION

"We have an opportunity to solve the small-batch manufacturing and risk management issues associated with startup brands...There are a lot of people searching for models they can make work in the US.”

--Van Tucker, CEO, Nashville Fashion Alliance

THE HEMORRHAGING NEEDS TO STOP • 97% of clothing sold in America is manufactured

overseas.• US apparel manufacturing lost more than 80% of

jobs from 1990 to 2011. • More than 60% of Americans would buy US-made

clothes even at 10% more.


Who is the Nashville Fashion Alliance?“supportive infrastructures are key to making a creative economy thrive”


Source: Colloquy, March 2016; FashionBI, August 2015; NYTimes, January 6, 2015

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intelligent butterfly dress by Turkish design duo is powered by Intel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ELuq3CzJys

the context of technology in fast FASHION

PEOPLE ENGAGE IN TECH, BUT NOT SURE WHY • 52% of Americans don’t know enough about

wearables or understand how they work.• 112 million wearable units are expected to ship by

2018. In 2014, 33 million units shipped. • In 2015, chip maker Intel put $300 million to

workplace diversity, presently 76% male.

“We’re moving away from the idea that (digital fabrication) is a novelty that is just a flash in the pan, to artists who are really dedicating their lives to exploring what is possible.”

--Ron Labaco, design curator, “Manus x Machina,” Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY


“the future of clothing as we know it is about to change”The Butterfly Dress Concept - Intel 2016


Source: Cone Communications, FashionRevolution.com

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bioRe® Cotton Farmers in Kasrawad, Madhya Pradesh, India. Origin of the ZRCL Cotton. Photography: @wearezrcl #wearezrcl

THE DISCONNECT RUNS DEEP • 9 out of 10 consumers say they would boycott an

irresponsible company.• Over 85% of companies are not paying their workers

enough to meet basic needs.• Only 25% of companies had fully traced their inputs,

and 9% their cotton.

"This generation is very conscious of doing the right thing...They are holding these fashion supply chains accountable for making sure that it's environmentally responsible, making sure it's not made in sweatshop factories."

--Shawn Carter, associate professor, FIT, NYCMuseum of Art, NY


“how can companies be encouraged to fairly support development”Who made your clothes? - Care UK


APRIL FOOLS FAKE PROMOTIONa recent April Fools captured the absurdity with Zuckerberg gray t-shirts

APATHY

Signifiers

numbcommoditymindless


MOMA WILL ADDRESS GRAVITAS OF FASHION RELICS 99 classic items will explore three tiers: archetype, stereotype, prototype

KNOWLEDGE

Signifiersclassicsiconsstaples


SWEDEN’S IVYREVEL USES ALGORITHMS TO DESIGN CLOTHESBacked by H&M/Paypal, it also is experimenting with a Fashion Tech Lab

EXPERIMENT

Signifierstrialsvariegationversatility


RELEVANCE TO FASHION TODAY IS KEY TO 3DMasaharu Ono for UTB designs 3D clothes that use an auxetic pattern

BESPOKE

Signifiersperformancefabric handmodularity


CUSTOMERS PAY FOR WHAT THEY LIKE, RETURN THE RESTM.M. LaFleur sends a custom Bento box of products for a week at the office

SIMPLICITY

Signifierspredictivetimelessuniform


“tech enables us to meet her where she wants to be”M.M. LaFleur is redefining fashion for working women


NET-A-PORTER W/ IBM FOR COMPLEX DISTRIBUTIONorders can be sourced from warehouses, distribution centers or stores

INTELLIGENCE

Signifiersdatarelevancyexperience


“if you are a company you need to change the way you operate”IBM Technology & Fashion Retail


The Future of Fast FASHON

The new mandate for fashion must be quick and flexible design with increasing attention to transparency and responsibility.


DOMINANT CODES

EMERGENT CODES

ADAPTIVE

IDENTITY SIMPLICITY

EXPERIMENT

2-3 years3-5 years

NOW/FADING 1-2 years

FAST FASHION AS A CULTURAL SYSTEM OF EVOLVING HUMAN CODES


identity adaptivecommodity

context

economics technology society

data

PAST PRESENT FUTURE

descriptive model of critical areas of change

predictive model for forecasting scenarios

patterns

1 2

3 prescriptive model for innovation platforming to these emerging scenarios

scenarios

patterns


shapeways frames the future adaptability of fashion


“as humans we’ve always strived to create”Shapeways 3D Printing


Thank [email protected]

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the future of fast fashion

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