the gainsborough hotel in bath
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13/04/2016 14:58The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing cool again | afr.com
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Sep 16 2015 at 12:15 AM Updated Sep 16 2015 at 12:15 AM
The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing coolagain
By the end of last century, the tourist appeal of Bath's mysterious hot
springs had evaporated. Now the city's Roman heritage is coming
back to life, writes Robert Bevan.
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The Gainsbor ough Bath Spa's private, mineral-rich spring water supply bubbles in at 47 degrees.
by Robert Bevan
The much-delay ed opening of the Gainsborough Bath Spa hotel this northern
summer crowns a remarkable turnaround for the English spa resort of Bath. Housed
in a former hospital turned art school (the hotel is named for the painter Thomas
Gainsborough), the luxurious 99-room venue is unique in having bubbling hot spring
waters feeding its own private spa complex.
Bath was in a sorry state during the aftermath of World War II. During the Baedeker
Blitz, German bombers had targeted its magni!cent stone crescents and squares in
revenge for Allied attacks on historic German cities.
Even before then it had been in long-term genteel decline – no longer a place where,
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8/18/2019 The Gainsborough hotel in Bath
2/5
13/04/2016 14:58The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing cool again | afr.com
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between regimental balls and promenades, fashionable Georgians took a dip in its
healing pools, the ladies sewing lead weights into the hem of their muslin frocks to
prevent a glimpse of something shocking.
While spa towns on the Continent retained their appeal, Brits took off to the Costa del
Sol in Spain on newly affordable package holidays. English spa towns such as Bath
were left behind as provincial retreats for elderly invalids looking to ease their painful
bones. Wheelchairs with carefully tucked tartan blankets bumped along the
pavements, supplanting leisurely carriage drives, elegant quadrilles and boating
jaunts along the River Avon.
Until the Gainsborough opened there was nowhere within Bath that aspired to the grand hotels found at the
thermal spa resorts of Europe.
A further blow to Bath came from below in 1978, when the deadly Naegleria fowleri
amoeba infected its main spring and a young swimmer died. Visitors were warned not
to touch the water, never mind drink it or bathe in it.
Bath might have become a tourist magnet, world famous for its architecture and a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. But its very raison d'être – the only hot springs in Britain
whose mysterious, bubbling waters had spooked the Celts and so entranced the
Roman invaders that they built a huge temple to the local watery goddess Sulis
Minerva and the tallest structure in Roman Britain as its bathhouse – had evaporated.
GRAND ASPIRATIONS
At the beginning of this century, determined efforts began to turn this situation
around. Its geology was scoured and new boreholes drilled to tap safe, amoeba-free
water and the magni!cent ruins of the Roman baths were furnished with a
fascinating underground museum.
John Lewis Radar 4-SeaterDrop-Leaf Dining Table
£450
A d v er t i s em en t
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8/18/2019 The Gainsborough hotel in Bath
3/5
13/04/2016 14:58The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing cool again | afr.com
Page 3 of 5http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/travel/the-gainsborough-hotel-is-bringing-baths-mojo-back-20150908-gjhucc
One of the Gainsborough Bath Spa's 11 treatment rooms.
The 18th-century Cross Bath and Hot Bath pools were renovated and the hi-techThermae Bath Spa built adjacent by architect Nicholas Grimshaw (whose practice
also designed Melbourne's Southern Cross station). The Thermae offers
contemporary treatments as well as panoramas from a rooftop swimming pool across
the city skyline to the surrounding wooded hills in which Bath nestles, picturesquely.
It was pure rainfall on these hills 10,000 years ago that gushes up to feed the springs
today.
Until the Gainsborough opened as part of the YTL group and as a member of The
Leading Hotels of the World, across the street from the Thermae, there was nowhere
within the city that aspired to the grand hotels found at the thermal spa resorts of
Switzerland, Italy and Germany.
Its small bar, specialising in a magni!cent !zz of gin cocktails, is next to the hotel's
top-"ight restaurant, Johann Lafer at the Gainsborough, established by Lafer, a
Michelin-starred Austrian celebrity chef. It makes a welcome change from the thick-
pastried West Country pasties that seem to make up the bulk of most tourists' diet.
Despite excellent dishes and local produce including superb English cheeses, Lafer's
signature Asian notes and some rather elegant but stiff hotel interiors by US
designers mean the Gainsborough does miss a trick in not elaborating on Bath's
quintessentially English character.
But there is no denying the quality of the menu or of its rooms (from £285, room only)
with their burlwood cabinetry and marble bathrooms. Some rooms have views over
the rooftop bathers at the Thermae, others over the glass-roofed pool of the hotel's
Spa Village.
Here, the hotel's private, mineral-rich spring water supply bubbles in at 47 degrees. It
needs to be cooled a little before it can be enjoyed on a bathhouse "circuit" among the
faux-classical columns that mark your progress through three thermal pools, saunas
and steam rooms and an alcove where lavender-scented ice for a rub down pours
from the mouth of a stone lion.
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8/18/2019 The Gainsborough hotel in Bath
4/5
13/04/2016 14:58The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing cool again | afr.com
Page 4 of 5http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/travel/the-gainsborough-hotel-is-bringing-baths-mojo-back-20150908-gjhucc
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The aim is to recreate something of the ancient Roman art of bathing, but without
water made scummy by scraping strigils. There are 11 treatment rooms and three
suites where the spa water is piped direct to private baths.
HEALING POWERS
In another nod to tradition, the hotel's opening-day takings were donated to the Order
of St John of Jerusalem, which has been tending Bath's ill and indigent from a historic
muddle of buildings nearby since 1174.
When the monks arrived in Bath and established their abbey, the Roman temple and
bath buildings had long collapsed, vanishing almost into oblivion – the sacred spring
left to bubble from a swamp before a new enclosure for it was built within their
monastery. Elizabeth I granted responsibility for the healing waters to the city in a
charter of 1591 and in the following century its fortunes began to "ow once more.
It was not until the 18th century that archaeological digs began to properly unearth
the classical splendour of the Roman pilgrimage town of Aquae Sulis and the elegantsunken neoclassical cloister crowned with statues of Roman emperors and governors
enclosing the Great Bath was begun. The Georgian Pump Room above also survives
for drinking the mineral-rich water (or for taking afternoon tea, if you prefer).
Now that its spa hotel is in place, funds have recently been allocated towards Bath's
next task: the restoration of the Cleveland Pools, a unique Regency lido set among
trees and !elds on the edge of the city that fell into decay and closed in the 1980s.
Soon, hopefully, you will once more be able to glide to the pools from the centre by
boat.
After waxing and waning more than once, the most beautiful city in England has its
original purpose back.
The author was a guest of the hotel and The Leading Hotels of the World.
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8/18/2019 The Gainsborough hotel in Bath
5/5
13/04/2016 14:58The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing cool again | afr.com
Page 5 of 5http://www.afr.com/lifestyle/travel/the-gainsborough-hotel-is-bringing-baths-mojo-back-20150908-gjhucc
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