the incomplete reprap beginner's guide
DESCRIPTION
3D Printing with RepRap shields and Arudino microcontrollerTRANSCRIPT
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
THE
INCOMPLETE
REPRAP
BEGINNER‟S
GUIDE v2 SEP 2013
HOW TO BUILD AND PRINT
WITHOUT LOOSING YOUR MENTAL
STABILITY
COS_
(KONSTANTINOS TZIAMPAZIS)
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Prologue
This is an attempt to gather in one document all
the basic information about REPAP MENDEL PRUSA, that is
available in the internet.
The reason of doing it, is that it is sometimes more
practical to have some basic information gathered in one place,
than trying to get fast and accurate answers, for issues that a
newbie cannot even understand and express.
Mostly this work is a „copy&paste‟ of documents and websites
scattered in the internet, and irc dialogues that took place in the
irc #reprap, witch I had the chance to log.
Although it is focused on the Mendel Prusa model, I hope it
may be useful for builders of other models.
Under no circumstances this document can be considered as
complete .
I would like to thank: kliment, Action68, Spacexula, MakerGear|Rick, maxbots,
Triffid_Hunder, Bill20r3, DavideV,OhmEye, tonokip, ScribbleJ and all the #reprap
and #makergearv2 friends, for helping me build - and then print with - my reprap
Mendel prusa.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
What is 3D printing?
…“3D printing is a form of additive manufacturing technology where a three
dimensional object is created by laying down successive layers of material. 3D
printers are generally faster, more affordable and easier to use than other additive
manufacturing technologies. 3D printers offer product developers the ability to print
parts and assemblies made of several materials with different mechanical and
physical properties in a single build process. Advanced 3D printing technologies yield
models that can serve as product prototypes.”
…“A large number of competing technologies are available to do 3D printing. Their
main differences are found in the way layers are built to create parts. Some methods
use melting or softening material to produce the layers, e.g. selective laser sintering
(SLS) and fused deposition modeling (FDM), while others lay liquid materials that
are cured with different technologies. In the case of lamination systems, thin layers
are cut to shape and joined together.”
…“Industrial 3D printers are made by companies such as Objet Geometries,
Stratasys, 3DSystems and Z-corp. The average price of such a printer is €10,000 or
more.”
(- Wikipedia; 3D printing)
Reprap Mendel prusa is an FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) 3D printer. Here are
some videos on how FDM works:
How FDM Machine Works.
How FDM Works.
OhmEye's introduction on RepRap and FDM.
You can find many more on youtube.
Videos of some commercial 3d printers:
Objet260 connex
Zcorp 3D Printer 650
Stratasys
What is RepRap?
“RepRap is a free desktop 3D printer capable of printing plastic objects. Since many
parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap can print those parts, RepRap is a
self-replicating machine - one that anyone can build given the time and materials. It
also means that - if you've got a RepRap - you can print lots of useful stuff, and you
can print another RepRap for a friend... …RepRap is about making self-replicating
machines, and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone……RepRap
was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-
source 3D printer revolution. It is described in the video on the right.” (Main_Page)
… “RepRap is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper. It is the practical self-copying
3D printer introduced in the video on the left - a self-replicating machine. This 3D
printer builds the parts up in layers of plastic. This technology already exists, but the
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
cheapest commercial machine would cost you about €30,000 and isn't even designed
so that it can make itself. So what the RepRap team are doing is to develop and to
give away the designs for a much cheaper machine with the novel capability of being
able to self-copy (material costs are about €350). That way it's accessible to small
communities in the developing world as well as individuals in the developed world.
Following the principles of the Free Software Movement, we are distributing the
RepRap machine at no cost to everyone under an open source license (the GNU
General Public Licence). So, if you have a RepRap machine, you can use it to make
another and give that one to a friend... …The RepRap project became widely
known after large press coverage in March 2005, though the idea goes back to a
paper on the web written by Adrian Bowyer on 2 February 2004.”
(RepRapWiki:About)
Adrian Bowyer explains his 3D printer RepRap:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px-g1NMvLug
There are various reprap models such as:
Darwin (the father, where it all begun)
Mendel (by Ed Sells, the successor) AND RepRapPro Mendel introduces
Prusa's 2 z motors and uses bowden extruder, resulting to a new model. This
work is done by Adrian Bowyer and his team.
Huxley (by ErikDeBruijn, the smaller) AND RepRapPro Huxley is a recent
improvement of Huxley, by introducing Prusa's 2 z motors and using bowden
extruder, resulting to a new model. This work is done by Adrian Bowyer and
his team.
Prusa (by Josef Prusa http://josefprusa.cz/pages/english, the faster&easier to
build&print Mendel)
Prusa V2 (by Josef Prusa, newer, better, with new RP parts, and many old but
optimised)
Makergear Prusa (By Rick Pollack, a commercial sold prusa kit with some RP
parts modded for best performance http://www.makergear.com/ )
Wallace(by whosawhatsis, is loosely based on the Printrbot, but is a complete
redesign in [OpenSCAD] to be more robust)
Prusa Air 2 (by Mecano, some transparent plastic gives prusa an extra air)
Rostock (by Johann, is a delta robot 3D printer with build volume 8x8x16
inches or 200x200x400 mm. Although its design does not resembles at all like
a Reprap, it is a DIY 3D printer that uses RP printed pieces like Reprap).
FoldaRap (by Emmanuel, the foldable-portable reprap!)
Below, you will find Mendel-like or mendel clones that are sold in kits
commercially, and have slight build differences than the original mendel: These
models are the product of developement of respective ventors
Axis, Glider (Mendel-like from botmill http://botmill.com/ )
Orca v0.2(mendel-like from mendel parts http://www.mendel-parts.com/ )
Insert here if I miss any model
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
NOTE: you must have in mind that choosing a mendel-like model, may be hard to
find specific parts when these will/may brake.
The RepRap Family Tree shows the development and variations of the reprap project,
and RepRap Family DB is a spreadsheet which lists the developments as they occur.
Ok, I want one
Well done! Before you make up your mind you need to make some research on the
subject. After all you are a newbie …..( since you are reading this).
Before reading further, you must understand that reprap is an open source project that
is under development, and requires some technical skills (from soldering to crafting).
If you are excited with 3D printing only and NOT with building, I suggest you buy a
pre-assembled, commercially sold machine and don‟t bother reading the rest of the
document concerning building and fine-tuning.
Remember …“it's generally suggested not to buy a full kit because you will have a
hard time finding someone to repair the machine once it does break. All 3d printers
eventually break."(http://ietherpad.com/UaMN2zn4sn)
Below you will find commercial sold 3D desktop printers, ready to
print:
*Cube http://cubify.com/cube/
*M(aka Mosaic) http://www.makergear.com/products/m-series-3d-printers
*Rapman http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/content/rapman-31-3d-printer-kit
*Replicator http://www.makerbot.com/
*Ultimaker https://shop.ultimaker.com/
*UP! http://pp3dp.com/
These printers have significant design, FW&host s/w and build,
differences than the original REPRAP concept,
however they are suitable for those who want to enter 3D printing
just for printing. All the above printers,
consist of build components that cannot be replicated using the
printer itself, which is a major aspect that
differenciates REPRAP printers fron the others.These printers are not
REPRAP.
For assembled-ready machines please read chapter 2.
If you are reading this, then i assume you have decided to enter the rabbit hole.. This
means that you not only are interested to have 3D prints but you also like the voyage
of making your own REPRAP. In order to suceed in this voyage you need to make
only 3 stops...
1st stop is the website of reprap.org. Here, you will find almost anything, although
some info may be obsolete, other may be up-to-date.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
I suggest you read A LOT. You can use the glossary to familiarise yourself with new
terms (http://reprap.org/wiki/Glossary), select one of the „how to build‟ pages
(http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Options) just to get the taste of what awaits you….
Also there is a search engine within the website that you will find very useful, since
the tons of info cannot be easily found through page browsing. For example type in
the search field: object, extruder etc. I found it quite useful as a dictionary for
unknown technical words (i.e. heated bed)
All the necessary information about building can be found here:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_Assembly
2nd stop is irc://irc.freenode.net/#RepRap (for chatzilla) or
http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=reprap a simple browser-based chat interface.
Those with IRC clients, simply select the freenode server, then the #reprap channel.
In irc you will get help right away, by very experienced users. Just introduce yourself
and ask your question. In irc, information is up-to-date, although sometimes you may
find difficult to explain exactly what is the issue that you are experiencing. This can
happen because of language barrier and lack of technical experience. But don‟t worry,
almost everybody is willing to help.
3rd stop is the reprap forum at http://forums.reprap.org/ Here, your question may
have been already answered. Check this thoroughly.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 2
ACQUIRING
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Reprap options
You have 3 options:
1. buy a fully assembled Mendel
2. buy one complete Mendel (or Mendel-like) kit
3. build one (buy all the parts from different dealers)
Category 1 usually applies to models of category 2 but the models are sold already
assembled. However, I wouldn‟t recommend it since they are delicate and heavy for
shipping:
check the http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Guide. More information you can find
in the IRC channel.
Category 2 is the playfield for the average amateur who does not know much about
electronics, crafting, soldering, engineering, programming, or does not have easy
access to all the parts needed to build a machine. It is for those who have fun building
plastic kit models, or for those who have some experience with tools such as
screwdrivers, multimeters, dremel, solders, etc. It is for the majority (like me) who
want to build a printer fast and easy.
The recipe is easy: the kit comes in a big and heavy box, you spend some time
building it (lot of fun for model kit builders), you spend some time calibrating it, you
spend the rest of your time printing and sharing our knowledge in #reprap.
check the http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Guide. More information you can find
in the IRC channel.
Category 3 is for the more experienced builders (ex-builders of category 2).
Machines build that way cost considerably lower, about 50% less than category 2, but
there is always the risk of finding parts with lower quality (like smooth rods that must
be straight and very smooth). Nevertheless you have the overall quality control over
each part, so you make your choices.
A RepRap consists of several different types of parts:
1. RP parts (RepRaped parts, that are used to mount the rods that make the
frame, mount motors and x-y carriages). These are printed from another
RepRap.
2. Mechanical parts. Are the smooth rods (to slide the carriages) and threaded
rods (to make the frame), nuts, washers, belts, bearings, springs etc.
3. Electronics parts. The controllers of the motors. All these are connected to a
main “controller” that reads the gcode from the computer and translates to
motor moves. Today, the most popular electronics are Arduino with pololu
shield (or RAMPS ), Arduino with Sanguinololu shield
4. Electrical parts. Like cables, power supply, stepper motors, endstops, etc
5. Hot-end parts. This is the most tricky part to find/make. More info at: HotEnd
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
6. The printer firmware. Sprinter by Kliment is the suggested FW for Ramps
machines. It uploads to Arduino via the Arduino control software
7. The software. This includes: A) the HOST software that connects the PC with
the printer (repsnapper, or preferably Kliment‟s pronterface), and B) the
application to convert the solid model into a series of gcode instructions that
your printer understands (slic3r by Sound or skeinforge/SFACT-by Action68)
Spacexula, is trying to make a Step-by-Step cost-related guide
Since most of us cannot make our own hotend, here are some of the
most well known suppliers:
* Arcol
* Budaschnozzle
* J-Head
* MakerGear
* MakerBot
* Mendel-parts
* ParCan
Check out this video comparison of the ParCan Hot end and the Reifsnyderb J-Head
hot end by Rotorit.
If you wonder how the hotend can fail, check this video
SUMMARISING
To make a RepRap print an object you need to:
1. build the hardware
2. build the electronics (Category:Electronics; RAMPS, Sanguinololu, etc)
3. wire the motors, fans, endstops, thermistors, hotend to electronics
4. upload firmware to electronics
5. load Host to PC and connect printer
6. use a slicer program on PC(skeinforge/sfact , slic3r) to slice an stl file (the
object you want to print)and generate gcode
7. load to your Host the generated gcode from the slicing program
8. execute the 'print' command on Host
RepRapers toolkit
As a RepRaper you need a decent toolkit. No matter what option you choose. Even
when you buy a fully assembled kit you need this for maintainance and
(re)calibration. Having this ready saves you from frustration later. This page
summarizes what you need: Required Tools
Filament
Finally, you need some plastic filament. For a list of companies(with reviews!) see
the: Printing material suppliers page.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Please review your supplier as this will help others avoiding the bad ones and
supporting the good ones!!
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 3
BUILDING
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Assuming that you have all the needed parts, it is time to start building…. The BOM
(bill of materials) is a list of all the necessary parts that you will need to build a prusa.
This can be found in the prusa visual build manual mentioned below.
Manuals - Guides
The REPRAP book. This is your first stop. A very comprehensive guide on
building your own reprap.
The Prusa Build Manual.
The prusa i3 build manual
Prusa Mendel wiki guide.
Prusa Mendel Build Manual from nextdayreprap.
How not to build a RepRap points out the problems and mistakes while
building one.
garyhodgson.com, Visual Instructions
Optionally, if you are making the WADE‟s extruder, you will need this
manual
Sells Mendel build manual in the RepRap wiki.
Below, there is a series of instructions for Makergear Prusas. They are prusas
with some parts modified for better. Makergear is also known for its good
quality of hotends
1. stepper plastruder instructions
2. ceramic heater core instructions
3. superpack instructions
After you have finished building, you need to calibrate the printer.
Here is Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide.
Also, you need to read the Wiki Calibration guide.
The Rostock corner
Building a Rostock, a step by step Blog, by Billy D.
Beginners guide to the Rostock MAX 3D Printer from SeeMeCNC.com
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Rostock Build Blog.
Rostock-MAX-Assembly-Guide.pdf
from Richrap
Video Guides
Building
Here are the videos of spacexula on a step-by-step building of a Prusa
There is another tutorial on building of a Prusa by loveamy11
The Sells Mendel tutorial
The RepRap assembly in 12 videos by filear
The RepRapResco (R.eS.Co. research's Prusa i2 cocktail) assembly tutorial
series Youtube playlist
Preparing the printing surface
How To Use Blue Tape for RepRap PLA Filament, by Printer Best
How To Apply Kapton Tape To RepRap Heated Bed Glass Plates, by Printer
Best
Soldering-Electronics
Improve your soldering skills (youtube) 1 2 3
How to crimp without crimp gun (youtube) 1
How to crimp with crimp gun (youtube) 1
Soldering Sanguinololu.
soldering RAMPS
SD RAMPS assembly by Kliment
Hotend building
Here is a series of video tutorials on assembling a makergear hotend.Some
steps are common for any hotend.
Here is a series of video tutorials on assembling a mendel-parts hotend V9.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
If you are experienced, you can make your own hotend. Wildseyed decribes
how, in a series of tutorials
Another video on Making a Hot End
Software/firmware
If you choose to use sprinter for firmware, you need to see the tutorial for
sprinter by spacexula
Installing Pronterface and SFact in Windows, by spacexula
Installing Pronterface by JamesHardiman01
Calibration
When it is time to calibrate, you have to see spacexula's x,y & z calibration
tutorial
Electronics
Modern Repraps (as of 2011) can choose from a pretty wide range of comparable
electronics to control Reprap motors, sensors, etc.. They all have the same basic
feature set, run the same firmwares and differ in optional stuff like support for second
extruders, only. I also would suggest to look into | Alternative Electronics.
Most widely used: Ramps
Here is a step-by-step guide of RAMPS v1.2 Build continued here
A single sided solution for do-it-yourselfers and modders: Generation 7
Electronics
Compact all-in-one board, all screw connectors, cheap: Melzi
Compact and affordable: Sanguinololu
4pi, a beautiful little 3d printer controller board by Kliment. 4pi needs its own
firmware at github.
Note: When you ask kthx or someone for the cable color order for motors connection
on electronics, you usually get 4 colors in particular order. It is presumed that you
hold the electronics board at the right orientation, that is the orientation that allows
you to read the letters or words that are printed on the board - not read the letters
upsidedown!
Here are the main on-line electronic components distributors
1. Digi-Key
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
2. Farnell
3. Mouser
4. RS
For stepper motors try here and here
For Arduino here
Arduino
All RepRap electronics are compatible to Arduino or are even stacked onto an
original Arduino (RAMPS), making a sandwich. As such, the Arduino software and
toolchain can be used to set them up.
Arduino drivers, control application, and install instructions (you need those to
connect electronics with your computer and upload the firmware) Download page
Installation: Step-by-step instructions for setting up the Arduino software and
connecting it to an Arduino Uno, Mega2560, Duemilanove, Mega, or Diecimila.
Software
You need:
#the HOST software (Pronterface, Repsnapper, RepRap, Repetier Host)
#the application to convert an object file into Gcode
(Skeinforge/SFACT, Slic3r, Reprap, Repsnapper)
#additional software (to create 3d objects for printing and then
adjusting them on printing plate.
Note: for printing one object only, it is automatically set to center
of print surface)
Here, is a Comparison of RepRap Toolchains (a toolchain consists of all the software
elements needed to create printed 3d models from CAD models to firmware)
Host&slice Software
Repsnapper application, the host+slicer, manual and code for all available OSes
RepRap host software latest release , the original host+slicer by Adrian Bowyer's
team. For installation instructions see:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Installing_RepRap_on_your_computer
and for user instructions see:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
ReplicatorG Host+gcode application and manual
Host Software
Pronterface
Pronterface host software that needs python to run, please read the instalation
instructions carefully.
Video tutorial on sfact & printrun from spacexula.
pronterface compiled version (my favourite) for Windows & Mac. Here, also
you will find complied experimental version for win.
Pronterface info from reprapwiki
Repetier-Host is a simple to use host software, which is optimized to work with Repetier-Firmware.
Other working firmware is Sprinter, Teacup, Marlin and all compatible firmwares
around. There is also a slicing option. For slicing you can use the built-in Slic3r slicer
or use the well-known Skeinforge. Main features are:
1. Visual 3D preview of G-Code. You can even change the code and see the
difference.
2. Syntax highlighting and code explanation.
3. STL composer - place, rotate and scale your STL files on your printbed and
store or slice it.
Repetier-Host can be downloaded here.
Slicing Applications
Skeinforge gcode application and manual. Windows self-extracting here.Enrique's
blog contains all the announcement and troubleshooting info about new versions of
SF. Here is the ProfileMaker by Makerblock an online app to make SF profiles for
you, powered by the formula in Dave Durant's Profileinator.
I have found these links on how to configure the skeinforge properly.
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12]
Slic3r a promising gcode application by Sound, with the read me file. Here, is a very
comprehensive guide on slic3r settings. Also, a Useful documentation for getting
started and using Slic3r can be found here.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
SFACT as mentioned previously, is an optimised version of SF with many
parameters already preset-ed for you. Download it here. Also, there is a SFACT FAQ
and SFACT in WIKI.
Cura is a project which aims to be an single software solution for 3D printing. While
it is developed to be used with the Ultimaker 3D printer, it can be used with other
RapRap based designs. Get it here. Mainly it is a skeinforge frontend.
KISSlicer(Keep It Simple Slicer) is a new slicing programm that comes in two
versions: free for single head, and PRO (not free) with multiple head and model
support.
Additional software
Art of illusion , the software that helps you to design your objects.
OpenSCAD, which is more focused on the design of non-artistic objects.
Blender can be used to arrange many objects in one print batch, like the platter found
in pronterface. Also you can use it to rotate objects on the plate to meet your needs. A
quick guide can be found here.
MeshLab is an open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and
editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes.
Netfabb Studio. A tool for repairing and manipulations of STL files. Netfabb Studio
is free, but not open source. The "PRO" version (not free) comes with a professional
slicer and many more.
Here is a page on Useful_Software_Packages with more description details and more
links.
Firmware
Sprinter firmware by Kliment and Caru, download it, unzip it, load it to
arduino connection software, and then upload it. Remember to specify what
arduino you have, from the „tools‟ menu.Please consult spacexula's video
guide mentioned earlier.
Note: before uploading your FW to arduino, you must make some changes
in order to make it work properly..
Just load appropriate *name*.h file on a text editor, or use
Arduino's editor and make appropriate changes as suggested below:
*changes in "cofiguration.h" (these changes are compatible with
sprinter. In Marlin, expressions may be slight differ but can be
easily located. I have not tested other FWs)
-set your motherboard (i.e.for RAMPS #define MOTHERBOARD 33)
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
-set thermistors (i.e.for 100k #define THERMISTORHEATER 1 #define
THERMISTORBED 1 )
-set your microsteps (consult josef prusa calculator, Triffid
Hunter's Calibration Guide)(i.e. for mendel with wade
extruder: float axis_steps_per_unit[] = {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700}; )
-verify resistors at endstops (i.e.#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
also verify endstop flag (true or false depends on NC or NO
connection, more for this chapter 4&5)
*changes in "pins.h" (ONLY FOR RAMPS OWNERS, for sprinter & marlin)
-verify your RAMPS motherboard version
(i.e. // uncomment one of the following lines for RAMPS v1.3 or
v1.0, comment both for v1.2 or 1.1
//#define RAMPS_V_1_3
// #define RAMPS_V_1_0)
Teacup firmware, by Triffid_hunter, Traumflug, jakepoz, "...claimed to be
faster than Sprinter, more elaborate configuration options Teacup is a decent
alternative for Sprinter."(https://reprapbook.appspot.com/#d0e982)
Marlin firmware by EvdZ, is a mashup between Sprinter, grbl and many
original parts.It is available for all hardware types (read the read.me file).
Marlin is configurable the same way as Sprinter. So, if you have already
sprinter on your electronics you can paste most of your settings to Marlin.
Main improvement over sprinter is the look-ahead function. The changes that
need to do in marlin are about the same those given earlier for sprinter. Read
the config.h carefully nad make appropriate changes.
Below, you will find some useful guides on configuring your Marlin firmware:
1. The Marlin builder
2. Marlin files for RAMPS 1.3-1.4 16stepping motors
Sjfwis another firware by Scribblej, instruction can be found here.
Repetier-Firmware, by Repetier, forked from Sprinter. Documentation here.
Here, is a List of all Firmwares available, with more descriptions.
Miscellaneous
WWW
Flickr account. You need one in order to show your prints and printing
problems
Thingiverse, is the repository for 3d objects ready to print. You need it to
download test pieces for your machine calibration. Also your main source for
objects to print.
Dropbox. Share your files
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Pastebin.com, you need this to paste your problematic gcode instead inserting
to irc reprap channel
The RepRap magazine
3dhacker is a free site dedicated to 3D printing. Members can showcase 3D
printers, extruders, upgrades, 3D model designs, software, and even run a
blog. In their site, they explain: "The beginnings for 3dhacker.com occurred
when we had trouble sourcing parts for a Rostock Delta build, involving 8+
websites. This was a lot of effort and we thought "if many people are doing
the same, a single source of 3D printing stuff categorized for the world might
be needed." "
Articles
Choosing Filament
A nice article on cooling fans mounted on extruders
In case you have made your own DIY filament maker (Filabot or LYMAN
FILAMENT EXTRUDER v2) you will need to add color to your pellets....
Filament Tolerances and Print Quality
Low-Cost Conductive Composite Material for 3D Printing
IRC
Log in to irc #reprap and start logging (simple browser interface) (firefox chatzilla
plugin) IRC Server: irc.freenode.net.You may not know, but your query may already
have been answered in there just minutes before you ask. Always check the log
thoroughly. IRC #Reprap‟s bot, kthx: http://bot.kthx.nl/bot/factoid
Blogs
Josef Prusa's blog, and his ideas on the heatbed.
Richard's blog on developments.
Reprap Blog
Reprap Builders Blog
More in-depth info about your mendel at the hydraraptor blog
Research & Development
Conductive Silver Ink from a Ballpoint Pen, is an idea that can be used to
printed cirquits
Build a Laser 3D Printer - Stereolithography at Home, an alternative to
conventional 3D FDM printing.
MAKE | Homebrew Liquid Resin 3D Printer, a resin-based 3D priting using a
DLP projector instead of a laser...
3D Printing with a Video Projector. Fllow the links.
DIY 3D scanner.Complete documentation + assemblying instructions.
Because a Reprapper needs a 3D Repscanner...
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Filabot, the desktop extruding system, capable of grinding various types of
plastics, to make spools of plastic filament for 3D printers. Also check the
open source files here
LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER v2, is a machine that extrudes filament
from pellets for use in a 3D Printer. It can extrude 1.75mm and 3mm filament
with easy nozzle exchange. The videos show that this machine actually
works!! it is DIY too!!
Mini shredder, for all the bad prints to be recycled, by using this cute-awsome-
little-powerful shredder.Then, use the filament extruder to produce recycled
filament for your printer. No scrap prints any more!
utilizing RepRap to make 3D sugar templates for making vascular tissues for
research in regenerative medicine
Ceramic 3D Printing Extruder
DIY Pick and Place Machine called the redFrog. Just think that this machine
could be a Reprap or a Rostock... ;-)
3D Printing of Liquid Metals at Room Temperature. This method allows you
to creat wires, construct models, anything a reprap board needs!
ATDNFAE (AnythingThatDoesNotFitAnywereElse)
If you choose to power your printer using an ATX power supply, like those
that use the PCs, you will need to go to "How to jumpstart atx psu". The wiki
page explains more about Power Supply psus.
Josef Prusa‟s calculator. You need this in order to insert correctly your
microsteps in firmware.
Create a folder in your hard disk named REPRAP or whatever you like, in
order to keep there everything related to reprap; from software to tutorial
videos and docs for future reference. Subfolders named software, objects,
videotutorials, manuals, irclogs, etc keep everything organised.
The Essential Calibration Set is what you need after building. It is advisable
to regularly print some after major or minor changes to hardware or software.
Also advisable when you have printing problems. Get it here
Mendel videos of the wiki. Scroll down on printing tips by Adrian Bowyer
The complete parts set in one zip file.All the stls or scad files you need for sae
or metric prusas.
Prusa V2 files.
Check the blog, the RP differences and download the files.
If you want to see the future in Reprap printing, Printing circuit boards on
Mendel is a good start...
Reprap live FAQ
Material Safety Data Sheet for PLA [13]or [14] and ABS [15] or [16]
Plastic Extrusion Problems and Solutions
You may want to scan objects for printing... check this site. You can make a
3d scanner on your own!
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 4
TIPS
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
After getting enough info on what you are about to do, it is time to actual start
building.... I will try to describe the steps i followed to build and finally do my first
print.
Building tips
I recommend you should first read the Reprap book to familiarise yourself.
Then, read the visual guide while watching the video guides of spacexula. In
this way you will understand fully the visual guide.I found some supplemental
build details here and here.
Note:Don't be afraid of mistakes!Excluding exceptional cases, REPRAP is VERY
FORGIVING if you make any mistake.Bolts and screws make any joint temporary, so
a mistaken placed part can easily be fixed.The same applies to soldering:always have
the desolder with you..
exceptional cases in my point of view can be considered:
1. Heatcore overheating due to faulty/disconnected thermistor
2. Liquid or loose bolt&nut drop on electronics (you need to find some cover
after finishing everything)>The sane applies for loose cables near electronics
3. Connecting/disconnecting motors or any other cable from electronics without
turning it off first
4. RP part break due to overtightening (like rod clamps), but this can be replaced
with another.
5. Motor overheating due to poor cooling or if there is an obstacle on one of the
carriages path, forcing it to stop while the motor is trying to move it
Of course, if such a mistake happen, the broken/burned part can
always easily be replaced.
So the bottom line is that even you make the worst mistake, it will cost you some
extra money & time..
Machine orientation
decide what is your front side for the machine.Original design assumes that Front is
the side that y motor is mount.Before building further, understand the positions of the
y,x motors and the corresponding positions of x,y endstops.
The jig
Make sure you have a jig."Use spacer bars to calibrate common distances. A good
arrangement for the y-axis jig is to tape a longer bar over the top of the spacer bar (see
pic) to achieve a perpendicular alignment. The top bar only has to be longer by ~10
mm at each end. This arrangement is not necessary for the other two frame jigs.
Another good method is to use threaded rod with nuts at the right distance. If you
twist the nuts in opposite directions you will lock
them."(http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_assembly_notes). Note:when tightening your
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
frame you want that the jig can be inserted easily into the measured gap.This means
that you must not apply force to insert or extract it.
Measure, tighten, measure again
This is self-explanatory, but sometimes underappreciated. Your machine must not be
loose, but not overtight either...
Inserting the x-y carriages
When inserting the x-y carriages you need to pay attention to the following:
1. first assemble but not tighten.
2. make sure the carriage move freely.Try to give it a push, it should move little
more before it stops.You must not apply much force to move it.If you do, then
you need to realign your smooth rods and bushings.
3. move y carriage to the far end (away from you). Tighten the 2 bar clamps of
that side.
4. repeat step 2.The carriage must behave the same.
5. move y carriage to your side. Tighten the 2 bar clamps of that side.
6. repeat step 2.The carriage must behave the same.
7. Repeat all the procedure again for x carriage.
Tightening the x,y motor belts
When tightening the x,y motor belts, you need to make sure that it is optimum
tight.This means that the belt is virbating like a tightened string when hit lightly.
Note: DO NOT OVERTIGHT.In order to assure this, just observe how the y motor's
shaft is moving off center when applying force on the the belt that is attached on the
pulley.Very important is that the pulley is vertical to the belt and not off-center due to
tension.You can understand this by moving the y carriage manual;if you notice that
the belt is trying to move out of the pulley's teeth or it is traveling along the idler's
width, then you must either:
1. realign the idlers (one or both of them)
2. realign belt clamps
3. realign motor
4. release or apply tension to the belt
The same goes for the x carriage. I call optimum belt tighness when you rotate a little
the pulley by hand and you see that the carriage moves as well.If there is a chance that
you turn the pulley but the carriage does not follow right away -watch cerfully if there
is a small raise of the belt at the teeth of the pulley while doing this- then you have to
tighten the belt.Also when you press the belt vertically with your finger, you need to
feel some resistance from it.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Cable wiring
Before make any wiring, decide where your electronics will be, how the motor and
endstop cables will run along vertices, how heatbed cables will allow the y carriage
move freely, without obstructing its move.You need to know your electric/electronic
arrangement in order to calculate the right cable length.
Y carriage holes
Before assembling the y carriage on rods, you need to make the holes that the screws
of the print bed will mount.Also you need to make corresponding holes on the print
bed. Moreover you need to make holes for the heatbed (if you choose to use one).
Lastly, you need to take measurings in order to make the glass or aluminum print
surface (if you choose to have one)
Endstops
They usually have 3 pins under the names:NO,NC,C.Sprinter firmware assumes that
you have connected the NC and C cables to "S" and "-" accordingly. If you haven't
done so, then either you change the firmware (inside the FW code, you will find what
to change in what since there is detailed explanation), or change the wiring of the
endstop side.(NC or NO go to "S" C go to "-")
Preliminary Tests
After assembling the x and y carriages, before mounting the e-motor with heatcore, it
is wise to make some motor tests. You will need to have all motors and endstops
wired to electronics (preferable mount also the thermistors), upload the firmware to
electronics, do all the firmware adjustments mentioned in previous chapter, load the
host, connect the printer to host and finally give some "move" instructions, "home"
instructions, "extrude" instructions.
IMPORTANT:Before turning the machine on, have the x,y,z axis
centered.
This means that your carriages are in the middle of their paths, not
at the ends.
Also be ready to turn the OFF switch if something is going wrong.
You dont have to have filament or have mount the heat core. Observe if the carriage
moves at the correct direction.Correct direction is moving away from the endstop
when you give a "+ X 10" instruction.If it does not move or if it does move but when
you have pressed the endstop, consult previous bullet point or troubleshooting
guide.Check all the axis same way:"+X 10". Then give the "home: instruction to
home the carriages.If all 3 axis home ok, then it is time to check extremities.Just tell it
to move to +200 for the x,y carriages (of course it is at home first). Then try to
extreme z axis.Give repetitively the +z 10 command to reach 10 cm in hight.Be
careful not to hit any part at vertices while raising x carriage, also be aware of the x
carriage timing belt....If everything is ok, perform a virtual print. Simply load a file to
skeinforge or what ever you have for slicing, slice it, load it to host and press the print
button.During print, you will notice the x carriage move, the z axis move, the y
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
carriage move.Also you will notice the e-motor rotate as well.If you don't notice any
strange noises, or whatever suspicious, you continue mounting remaining parts.
Note:for virtual prints you must not have connected the heatbed and heatcore power
cables..
How to insert/extract filament
Inserting
1. Loose the filament idler springs.
2. Insert filament by hand gently, until it cannot move more.
3. Set heatcore at extracting temp, that is 185C for PLA and 230C for ABS.
4. When temp is reached, push gently by hand filament down until it oozes from
the nozzle.
5. Tighten idler springs.
6. Test extrude from host program.
Extracting
1. Loose the filament idler springs.
2. Set heatcore at 150C for ABS, 130C for PLA.
3. When temp is reached, pull up the filament with your hand.
4. Turn of heatcore immediately
Alternative to printed parts (RP)
1. z axis couplers. After some printing you may have problems with z axis RP
couplers; they loose their grip on the thread rod causing loosing steps.Usually
people replace these if they see that the problem is persistent. I have found
these couplers but you may also search and find more of these types.
There are also some RP new coupler designs for prusa such as
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5439
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7678
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7757
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8223
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9622
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10906
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11187
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12582
1. bushings. It is known that the original prusa plastic bushings wear off after
some use.The trend now is LM8UU linear bearings.There are many reprap
shops that sell them now.However just type 'lm8uu' in ebay search bar to see
what will come out. NOTE: LM8UU linear bearings require the smooth rods
to be made from rolled steel. Anything softer than rolled steel will get
damaged by the linear bearings and might also damage the linear bearings.
Remember, that these bearings require PR parts that are modified to grip these
bearings.All the modified parts can be found in Thingiverse.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Mounting Glass and the Heated Buid Platform
Check this video
Calibrating - Fine tuning tips
X&Y carriges Endstops calibration
Supposely you have mounted the heatbed or the print surface in general, you need to
adjust exactly your endstops in order not to print outside this area.The print surface of
your prusa or mendel is 20x20 cm.
1. Move y carriage to home.
2. Move x carriage to far left, then right and make sure that the nozzle has equal
distance from each edge.
3. Then move y carriage to +200.
4. repeat step 2
Fine tuning exact distance between nozzle-surface
When you set the nozzle to a certain distance from the print surface when homing the
z axis, you must be sure that this distance will be the same for all the print surface,
wherever the nozzle will be, when z=0.
1. Move y carriage to +100.
2. Move x carriage to +100.
3. Home z axis.
4. Set z endstop to required nozzle-surface distance.
5. Move x carriage to far left.Home y cariage
6. If the distance is not what you have set, then readjust it by
screwing/unscrewing the adjacent screw that holds teh print surface (the one
that has the springs under the print surface)
7. Move x carriage far right.
8. Repeat step 6.
9. Move y carriage +200.
10. Move x carriage far left.
11. Repeat step 6.
12. Move x carriage far right.
Verify settings with steps 1,2,3.After this, try print this to verify your settings. Nozzle
must have same distance from surfac<e everywhere. In order to define the right
nozzle-surface distance, see troubleshooting guide, printing.
Fine tuning Z endstop
There is a possibility to loose z endstop exact location.. Just move nozzle to center of
surface (x,y =100) and calibrate z endstop.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Printing tips
Printed parts detaching tools
In my experience detaching ABS from Kapton may prove a little bit hard. A set of
blades like these can be very useful for detaching and cleaning the part.
Rough print surface
After some use, your kapton may become rough due to peeling.It is not time to
replace it, at least not yet. Try in skeinforge/sfact the raft plug in, setting 1 interface
and 1 base layers. Leave rest of values untouched. It prints 2 intercrossed layers
before printing the part, helps smoothen all surface problems (including slight
inclination), allowing your piece to have a nice first layer. But you may experience
some trouble removing it from piece, or for ABS, need to have high bed temp since
first layer is not touching the bed anymore.
Hair spray on Heatbed?
Yes, many people have tried hair spray on heatbed and say it works like a charm!
Mainly, it is used when kapton tape shows lack of capability to adhere first layer. But
if used on new kapton, they say it makes it live longer. It is said that it can hold up 1
week. Sprayed surface can be cleaned by acetone, alcohol etc. It also reduces the
necessary bed temp by 10C or more...
Instructions of use:
1. !!SPRAY ON A ROOM TEMPERATURE HEATBED!! Some prefer to use a
glass for print surface, since it can be removed and spray it in open area.
2. Protect adjacent printer parts from spray (smooth rods etc.) by using a carton or
something.
3. Wait for spray to fix itself.
4. Use it. You can also turn on you heatbed to print ABS.
Rotating objects in [openscad]
The following is an extract from a dialogue i had with Triffid_Hunter in #reprap
"openscad: rotate([0, 0, 0]) import_stl("blah.stl");
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
<Triffid_Hunter>COS_: the 3 numbers for rotate are rotation about the X, Y and Z
axes in degrees.change by 90 to test output. The stl must be in opencscad folder. Then
select design->reload&compile. Then if satisfied, select compli&render then export as
*.stl file."
Rotating objects in Blender
1. open blender
2. file->import stl (load the stl you want to rotate)
3. right click on object, press "r", then the axis to rotate(x,y,or z)
4. type the angle to rotate (90,180 etc ) object will rotate instantly
5. press enter when satisfied
6. file->exprot stl, save object
Note: be careful that the object must touch the grid (z axis=0) otherwise object will
not start print at layer 0 but higher..
How to change ABS to PLA and vice-versa
Let's say you print with ABS.
1. set temp to 230C
2. unscrew idler and remove ABS filament (see "insert/remove filament)
3. insert PLA
4. temp is 230C
5. gently push filament until it oozes
6. set temp to pla extrude temp (185C)
7. screw idler and test extrusion
Let's say you print with PLA.
1. set temp to 185C
2. unscrew idler and remove PLA filament (see "insert/remove filament)
3. insert ABS
4. temp is 230C
5. gently push filament until it oozes
6. screw idler and test extrusion
Can i fix broken plastic parts?
Of course!
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Pla
-see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23606
-also you can use epoxy. I wouldn't recommend cyancrylic due to decolorisation
Abs
-Use acetone. It is strong without any plastic decolorisation and it is dulable. I used it
to fix my broken extruder idler part.
Printing Parameters Database
The table below describes printing parameters of different materials for printing. The
suggested print surface settings, are those that combine easy of use, low cost and
durability. These parameters were taken mainly form Nophead's and Richrap's blogs.
Also, an extensive search throughout my #reprap logs helped as well.
Print material Extrude Temp Print surface settings
ABS 210 C ~ 240 C Kapton or PET tape on flat surface (glass) at
110 C
PLA 165 C ~ 180 C Kapton tape or Blue tape on flat surface
(glass) OR Hairspray on glass OR lightly
sanded glass at 60 C
PMMA (plexiglas) 180 C Plexiglas surface at 50C~100C OR Kapton
tape on flat surface (glass) at 110C ~ 130C
Nylon 190C ~ 265C Tufnol (temperature not specified)
Chocolate, Ceramic, Sugar paste,
Silicone, Flux paste, Clay (you
need the Universal paste extruder)
Ambient in
general, for
chocolate 30~33
C
Flat surface (glass) in ambient temp, for
Ceramic use aluminum foil on flat surface
(glass)
HDPE 200C ~ 240C PP (polypropylene) print surface
PCL 120C ~ 150C (temp&surface not verified)
Polyurethane 215C 110C(surface not verified)
Print material Extrude Temp Print surface settings
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 5
TROUBLESHOOTING
GUIDE
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Building
MOVING AXIS
Carriage moves only to one direction, but moves reversed only when i
keep press the endstop
Verify your endstop wiring.Cables should be at NC and C. The "NC" goes to "S" on
RAMPS and the "C" goes to "-".
OR
Change the logic of the firmware.Sprinter&Marlin allow this.I have not tried any
other FW. If anyone has, please write it here.
Sprinter&Marlin firmware, configuration.h
//If your axes are only moving in one direction, make sure the
endstops are connected properly.
//If your axes move in one direction ONLY when the endstops are
triggered, set [XYZ]_ENDSTOP_INVERT to true here:
const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true;
const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true;
const bool Z_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true;
I am getting a reading off my thermistors, but ALL of my axises will not
move at all.(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
Confirm that you did attach the 12V leg of your power supply to the electronics. If
you attached 5V by accident none of the Axises will work
In which direction should the Axis move? (http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
Z goes up when going positive, down when going negative X goes left when going
negative and right when going positive Y goes forward when going positive and back
on the negative You can reverse stepper direction by flipping the stepper plug, or
changing settings in firmware. ALWAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE
UNPLUGGING A STEPPER
One axis will not move at all, what is
wrong?(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
If only one axis will not move -1st swap the stepper motor to a different driver, If the
problem is likely that you do not have proper electrical connection to the motor,
insure that both coils are connected AABB A connected to A B connected to B
electrically -If the problem stays on the axis it's an issue with the board, if your
electronics have removeable stepper controllers move the stepper controller to an axis
that works. If the problem moves then you either have a stepper that is turned all the
way down, or a dead stepper controller -If the problem STILL does not move you
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
might have an issue with your electronics themselves, turn your board over and make
sure that the sockets for the stepper controlers and the related capacitors/reistors for
the axis are all properly soldered. Any questions with a joint just touch up the solder.
Heatbed
I cannot apply my 70mm Kapton on glass surface without bubbles! The
tape is too large and I cannot control it
Have you tried the wet method? Check this video
Electronics
What order do the wires in my stepper motors get connected to my
Stepper Driver?(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ
guide)
RAMPS and Sanguinololu Electronics both have motors attached in an AABB
pattern. This means two wires that are "closed" (have continuity) go in the first two
pins, and the other two wires go in the second two pins. The color is different for each
manufacturer.
Using the Sanguinololu 1.1 my motors will not
release.(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6, the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
The Sanguinololu does not take the M84 motor release command, you have to
modifiy the board to get that functionality.
Electrical
MOTORS
When I send a move command to an axis the motor makes a buzz sound
without moving.
You need to adjust the trimpot. It can be found on the stepper driver, it is the little
round thing that looks like a screwhead. Rotating the tripot gives more power to
motor. Be cairful, too much power can lead to motor burn, Therefore make small
adjustemnts and interate the process.
1. Power off your electronics
2. Turn the screw a little bit clockwise
3. Turn on Power
4. Test
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
5. Repeat
This rotation can be done without turning off the electronics however touching
anything with your screwdriver might damage your electronics.
My motor is behaving strangely. It makes a grinding noise whenever I tell
it to step 10mm and adjusting the pot doesn't fix it. The wiring seems to
be fine as well. In addition, it will sometimes move, but then reverse
direction a bit. This is also happening with my extruder, it will move in
one direction then back off(http://titanpad.com/qJEQDJxQs6 , the live
REPRAP FAQ guide)
Your connector to your motor is very likely lose, swap the axis and the behavior
should follow the motor. recrimp or replace the motor connector. If the problem is on
the motor side of the conneciton you might have to replace the motor if you can't take
it apart.
One of my motors just stops turning partway through an otherwise
perfect print.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ
guide)
Most likely, the motor is overheating, and losing torque. You need to turn down
(counter-clockwise) the adjustment pot for the motor.
I can't get my motor into the sweet spot between enough current and too
much. If I turn it down enough to stop from overheating, I get skipped
steps.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
Add a fan, heat-sink or both to the motor driver.
I need more info about stepper motors, i.e. wiring, motor types etc..
check the wiki http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_Motors also you can check
http://www.sapiensman.com/step_motor/
Firmware
My printer cannot communicate with Host
There are several things to see:
1. check usb cable, both ends
2. check host speed setting to mach that of your FW
3. check COM port
4. sometimes high speed is not tolerable by Os&computer
5. FW speed setting:
marlin for baudrate 250000:
// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
//#define BAUDRATE 115200
//#define BAUDRATE 230400
*Note: Marlin requires pyserial version 2.6 on linux bots to get to
250000 ( Marlin FAQ, at http://titanpad.com/zKInCaYQb0)
sprinter for baudrate 115200
// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 115200
X,Y,Z carriages go beyond limit (200mm for X,Y and 100mm for Z)
check FW setting:
marlin prusa settings
#define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to
coordinates less than zero.
#define max_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to
coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
#define X_MAX_LENGTH 200
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 200
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH 100
sprinter prusa settings
const bool min_software_endstops = false; //If true, axis won't move
to coordinates less than zero.
const bool max_software_endstops = true; //If true, axis won't move
to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
const int X_MAX_LENGTH = 200;
const int Y_MAX_LENGTH = 200;
const int Z_MAX_LENGTH = 100;
My print suddenly gets shifted over by Xmm, partway through the print.
There is a good chance that your acceleration is too high than your hardware can
manage. You have to reduce acceleration through firmware:
Marlin firmware (original value is 3000.Try 1000 or 1500):
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z and E max
acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
Sprinter firmware (these valus normally work):
float max_start_speed_units_per_second[] = {25.0,25.0,0.2,10.0};
long max_acceleration_units_per_sq_second[] = {1000,1000,50,10000};
// X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
long max_travel_acceleration_units_per_sq_second[] =
{500,500,50,500}; // X, Y, Z max acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel
moves
#endif
I have just changed FW from Sprinter to Marlin (or vice versa) but
although i transferred all parameters, my prints are $#|tty
Yes, it happens all the time... Have you checked this parameter?(found in Sprinter at
Configuration.h or Marlin at Configuration_adv.h)
#define MAX_STEP_FREQUENCY 30000 // Max step frequency i have this
value for Prusa
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
My MakerGear metric Prusa, Ramps 1.3, 1 MG hotend, 16 step drivers,
Nema 17 geared extruder, 100 thermistor, heated bed, FW settings
These are my FW settings for my metric Prusa. I only include the parameters that i
changed from original file along with important ones. These parameters apply to
Marlin and Sprinter found in Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h(Marlin only)
"OR" APPLIES TO MARLIN EXPRESSION OF SAME PARAMETER
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#define THERMISTORHEATER 1 OR #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define THERMISTORBED 1 OR #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
#define BAUDRATE 250000
#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {160,160,6400/1.25,1474}; //MG metric
prusa, MG hotend, MG stepper extruder
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS
const bool X_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true; OR const bool
X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true;
const bool Y_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true; OR const bool
Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true;
const bool Z_ENDSTOP_INVERT = true; OR const bool
Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true;
const bool DISABLE_Z = true; OR #define DISABLE_Z true
const int X_MAX_LENGTH = 200; OR #define X_MAX_POS 200
const int Y_MAX_LENGTH = 200; OR #define Y_MAX_POS 200
const int Z_MAX_LENGTH = 100; OR #define Z_MAX_POS 100
#define _MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 2, 45} // (mm/sec)
#define _HOMING_FEEDRATE {1500,1500,120} // (mm/min) !!
#define _AXIS_RELATIVE_MODES {false, false, false, false}
#define MAX_STEP_FREQUENCY 30000 // Max step frequency
#define _ACCELERATION 1000 // Axis Normal acceleration mm/s^2
#define _RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2000 // Extruder Normal acceleration
mm/s^2
#define _MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND {5000,5000,50,5000}
#define MINIMUM_PLANNER_SPEED 2.0 // (mm/sec)
//#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING
Marlin PID settings for MG hotend
// Makergear
#define DEFAULT_Kp 40.0
#define DEFAULT_Ki 0.55
#define DEFAULT_Kd 35
Software
TO BE CONTINUED....
Printing
What is the right distance between nozzle and surface?
My experience points that it should be equal or less the 2/3 of your print
layer.Measuring this distance is easy with a feeler gauge;just set distance using the z
endstop and measure the gap in betwen by inserting the feeler gauge thin steel blade.If
it gets through roughly, it is ok, but if it gets through very easily, you need to reduce
the gap and measure again. Be carefull while measuring, the feeler gauge blade must
fit in the gap without having to push the print surface down in a manner to compress
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
the 4 surface support springs. Some prefere to set it to zero, meaning that when 'home'
nozzle touches the surface. It also can be adjusted by the slicing software you use (i.e.
you can insert a gcommand to raise/lower your nozzle a bit in your start gcode).
Please refer to respective software settings, to learn how to do it through software.
NOTE: The central idea around setting minimum distance, is to achieve optimum first
layer adherence. This can be controlled by 3 factors: Nozzle travel speed, filament
extrusion speed, distance between nozzle-bed. Playing with all 3 parameters you can
achieve desired results. Best result can be considered the ablility to have object
adherence on bed without flattening too much the first layer.
My print suddenly gets shifted over by Xmm, partway through the
print.(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
This could be caused by a number of problems. The most likley is you need to adjust
the current for your stepper motor - find the adjustment pot for the motor, and
carefully turn it up (clockwise) a tiny bit. If you still lose steps, turn it up a bit more. It
could also be do to your belt tension being too low (and too high of tension can lead
to current probelms as above). Belt or bearing binding is another common cause of
these problems. Make sure your axes all move smoothly, if you feel any sticky spots
that could be the cause..Check also the firmware troubleshooting
Note:if you have such a problem on x carriage, after several hours of printing with the
heatbed on, then you must know that the heat from the heatbed affects the belt
tension.If your belt is somewhat loose, then the heat decrease the tension a lot.Usually
you miss steps when carriage acelerates to move to next print point. Check also the
screw of the pulley; after some time it looses the grip of the motor shaft.
Why does my extruder skips steps whenever I am trying to
print?(http://titanpad.com/NKIQnvwEtd , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
Issues to check
-Is your stepper controller getting hot? If it overheats you will get skips durring
extrusion
-If using a geared stepper, does the 2 gears mesh exactly the same across the full
rotation of your larger gear? If you have a part that has higher resistance you gear
might not be perfectly round / have a defect. Try to use a hand file to clean up the gear
meshing, or move the stepper motor gear further from the driven gear to allow more
room for the defects.
-Is your thermal barrier getting hot? If your thermal barrier gets to hot it can cause
increased resistance to motion by your cold end. You might need to put a fan on your
thermal barrier.
-Your nozzle might have trash in it. If all else fails remove your hot end and clean out
all the plastic. Most hot ends this can be done with a blow torch, but some are too
fragile for this and you must use a long acetone dip.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
My prints will not stick to the HBP (Heated Build
Plate).(http://titanpad.com/4MdGMrV192 , the live REPRAP FAQ guide)
Many things can cause a print not to stick, check these things:
-Is your HBP hot enough? 70C for PLA 110-120C for ABS
-Have you got skin oil or lube from the axises on the plate? It will cause prints not to
stick (you can clean them with alcohol, acetone, or ammonia (Windex, tested on
glass) )
-Are you pressing the 1st layer into the HBP enough? The extrusion should take on a
slightly flat appearance without actually squishing it (you should not see the nozzle
dragging thought he middle of the print.
-Are you printing the 1st layer slow enough? All materials like the travel speed to be
15-20mm/s for the 1st layer.
It seems that there is something into my nozzle hole... filament comes out
with difficulty form extruder, no matter if i raise core temp... how do i
clean nozzle hole? ?
Relax!
Probably there is something stuck inside your nozzle hole, maybe dirt or dust that
came along with filament (do u use sponge right before filament enters the extruder?).
This is called clog. I had the same problem and i had to replace hole hotend, just
because i didnt know the following tip. If you type "clog?" at the #reprap irc channel,
you will get a similar answer but with lower tempereatures. My procedure (givn
below) is tested and it works for me...
PLA
1. turn on reprap, set core temp to 150C
2. release extruder idler springs
3. try to push filament down to see if it extrudes a bit manualy, this will
compress filament inside peek
4. turn off core, and watch core temp
5. at 90~100 C remove filament from extruder using some steady force.The
unmolten filament should come out along with molten filament from inside
bronze barrel.This filament looks like a gum. Keep removing this, until all of
it is out. This should clean inside nozzle hole.
6. insert new filament.
7. wipe filament that is between entruder and filament coil with damp cloth with
alcohol(general, in modifications that need to remove filament, dont let
filament on floor or on dirty surfaces)
8. set extrude temp and test extrude.
9. repeat if it didnt work, but try to remove filament at lower temp, such as 80 or
60 C.
10. replace nozzle if it didnt work
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
ABS Follow the procedure described for PLA, but having initial temp (step 1) at 190
and filament extraction temp (step 5) at 150C
CHAPTER 6, LEARNING MORE
I assume that now, you have your machine calibrated, you have printed those
calibration cubes and objects, and you stay up late at night watching the printer
creating your objects..
I also assume that you already have some questions...
PLA or ABS?
Slic3r or Skeinforge or SFACT or ?
Marlin or Sprinter or ?
FreeCAD and/or OpenSCAD ?
Extruding my own filament?
Here, i will try to share my experience, after having tried some of the above.....
PLA VS ABS
My first prints were made by ABS. I have chosen ABS because of its higher
resistance in time, temperature and loads. These qualities make it a good material to
make RP parts.Virtually, it can be used to any working application (from toy to
complex machine and mechanism). However, printing with ABS is Tricky for the
newbie... Later i tried PLA, and i can surely tell you that PLA is the material that you
must begin printing with.
Below there is a comparison table with these 2 materials
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Description ABS PLA
Hotend print
temp
215~230 C (danger to burn it if temp control goes
wrong) 165~185 C
Need of Heated
bed YES, 110C
NO, if print on Kapton or Blue
tape
Print surface
preparation I use Kapton on glass surface, clean with acetone
I use Kapton on glass, clean
with acetone
Warping Very delicate on large surfaces and thin&tall walls
No problem, u need though
some heatbed temp for large
surfaces for first 10 layers
Odor - fumes Some may find it annoying, it is said that fumes
may be toxic.Always print in well ventilated area.
No smell or fumes at these
temps, overtemp may produce
some nice smell
Application Flexible, good for mechanisms, RP parts, lives
long, not suitable for food use
Brittle, good for toys (due to
food use), suitable for food
use, artistic objects
Colorisation White ABS can change color if you apply a color
marker before hotend entry No
Price Cheaper than PLA More expensive than ABS
Biodegradability No Yes
Hygroscopicity Little
Enough (can make big bubbles
on prints if it absorbs too much
moisture)
Overall
Heatbed at 110C for some hours means raised
electricity bills.It also means danger to finger
burn.It also means you need to WAIT until set temp
is reached.ABS adheres to kapton very strong, so
when you try to unstuck your print form kapton, in
9 out of 10 times you destroy Kapton substrate
because you use knives or similar sharp edged
tools.
No heated bed, no touble.No
raised hotend temp, no
danger.No fumes, no cancer.If
you suspect too much moisture
in your PLA, put it into the
(preheated) oven at 50C for 30
mins :-)
Slic3r or Skeinforge or SFACT or ?
Before making up your mind i suggest you to try every one of them in order to have a
personal view of their abilities and disabilities.
Skeinforge is the oldest of the other 2 and therefore, it carries much experience in it.
However, it is too complicated for a beginner who just want to slice the calibration
cube....
SFACT is the answer to the difficult user interface of Skeinforge. It simplifies many
slicing parameters and explains in brief what parameters are important and how to
handle them. Of course, SFACT is -lets say- a more user-friendly version of
Skeinforge.
As of Skeinforge 50, flow rates are calculate automatically making the user interface
easier, and closer to the automation of SFACT.
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Slic3r is nicer as some people say. Slic3r is the new trend in slicing (as of july 2012).
It is much much faster in slicing than skeinforge/SFACT, it has few parameter to play
with, but it cannot reach skeiforge's depth. However, it evolves day-by-day and if you
consider that a year ago Slic3r was in the realms of unexistence, one can expect it will
be the best slicing prg. in the future.
I also tried Cura. It seems to me that cura is sceinforge (some parameters as well as
print quality remind me of skeinforge, ) with an excellent user inteface plus a 3D
object layout. However there are some things that i did not like, like being unable to
save the object after rotating or scaling it without having to slice it first...
I also have used RepRap host software, Repsnapper. These are Host&slicer
together. It is interesting to see your parts in 3D as they will be printed on table (good
to see if your parts need to be rotated), but their intergrated slicing programs don't
seem to have the publicity of slic3r for example. I have used them as host and never
used them for slicing.
KISSlicer is a new slicer that -according to some forums- gives more priority to
quality over speed.
Please check this link for a comparison between slic3r,cura,SF and kisslicer
Marlin or Sprinter or ?
Because seeing is believing, in this and this article, thisand this photo you can see the
difference.
However, Sprinter is easier to setup since the parameters to play with are
straightforward. Marlin, on the other side is more complicated to setup. It is not
uncommon for people to change from Sprinter to Marlin, that have problems in prints
just because they miss to setup correctly Marlin. It happened to me, and it took me 2
afternoons to figure out that i was missing a parameter in one of the last lines of
config.adv in Marlin.....
This happens because Marlin's original setup is for Ultimaker. For example, Marlin's
print area setup is not 200x200x100 as it is supposed to be for repraps.
Summarising, first you need to start with Sprinter, then, when you see that you are
confortable with playing firmware's parameters, you can switch to Marlin.
I haven't tested any other Firmware, and i would be glad if someone else has, and
would like to show pictures of other comparisons as well.
Extruding my own filament
Yes, it is true, but under certain circumstances. If you choose to get into this, you also
have to learn some things about plastics extrusion, as well as you have some technical
skills to make one (at the moment filament extruders are DIY). Don't forget that home
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
extruding is at preliminary stages, so if you are a newbie i suggest you to wait some
time, until home extruding concept settles well.
Home made filament is possible if you have a filament extruder. Filament extruders
are available ready to buy but also they are available as open source hardware, so you
can make a DIY machine. The most documented, tested, and awarded machine (in my
point of view) is Lyman's filament extruder II. It is checked, tested and works fine. I
also made one for myself! If you check thinginverse for filament extruders you will
find some machines that work.
Filament extruders that you can buy (almost all of them are funded from kickstarters):
Filastruder
Filabot
Filafab
Here is a filament extruder from ebay
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
CHAPTER 7
THINGS TO WATCH OUT
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
Ok, now you are printing fine, and of course, you are happy.
Here are some things you should pay attention to, in order not to have bad dreams
SPARE PARTS
MAINTENANCE
EXPERIMENTING
Spare Parts
RepRap is the only 3D printer that can make spare parts for itself. I suggest you print
all parts of your printer, just in case. Howerver, there are parts that WILL need to be
replaced because of a break or fatigue or melting.
These are (in my point of view)
X carriage
all extruder parts
bar calmps
RP pulleys
x,y idler in case you have a RP part instead of washer&bearing
A4988 Pololu stepper driver (in case you have RAMPS)
Maintenance
As a machine, Reprap needs oil and care.
Whipe with a duster and then with a damp cloth the print surface
Use duster to every part of machine
Try to enclose RAMPS or any other controler you have, in a box or
something. Electronics are delicate to dust
Fasten bolts & nuts on monthly basis (if you use the machine almost daily)
Keep smooth rods clean and lublicated. Lublication type can be given in IRC.
Users with bronze bearings, LM#UUs and round type bearings (608 xx) dont
need lubricant.
Check wirings and x carriage for melting indications (monthly).
Experimenting
It's almost impossible to be a reprapper and not be tempted to try/experiment with
new frimware or try a new-modded RP part.
Before doing anything that you might regret in the future, be sure of :
1. You know what are you doing
2. You have extensive backup of your firmware before attempting any change
COS_ THE INCOMPLETE REPRAP BEGINNERS‟GUIDE
3. You have a list of calibration values (easier as a start for re-calibration after
modification)
4. You have enough spare parts to build crucial parts of you printer in case they
melt/brake.
5. Always ask for enough information in #reprap BEFORE attemting anything
stupid. Maybe someone has already done it and have some experience to give
you.
My experience on experimenting was that i should have a hole new hotend before
attempting to go to PID temp control. My first attempt ended with 307 C on my
hotend...I had to wait some time for a new peek from Makergear, since the old was
completely destroyed. Now i have 2 complete sets just in case...