ABOUT BAVARIAN STITCH Previous lessons in this series have fea tured many of the stitch patterns evaluated in TKGA's Master Hand Knitting Program. Bavarian/Austrian Traveling Stitch is one that most knitters working on Level 3 find difficult. This difficulty is due to both the technique itself and to finding accurate information about the technique.

This technique has several names. It is identified as Bavarian, Austrian, or Alpine and as twisted or traveling st itch. The first three indicate the geographic area where this technique was developed and the latter two describe the technique itself. The pattern will be referred to as Bavarian Traveling Stitch in this article to conform to how it is listed in the Master Knitting program.

From at least the eighteenth century these traditional stitch patterns, which resemble

wood block prints, have been passed down from one generation of Alpine knitters to the next generation. Used to create cardigans, vests and knee stockings, the designs were worked in smooth cream colored yarn which showed off the intricate patterns. What distinguishes this type of pattern from other types is that single columns of twisted knit stitches " travel" or cross on a background of reverse stockinette.

German Sources One of the difficulties in working with this type of pattern was that, until recently, most of the books which had these stitch patterns were in German. Lisi Fanderl's Bauerliches Sticken 1-3 (published by Rosenheimer Verlagshaus in 2001 ) is a set of three books which provide many examples of twisted patterns of this type as well as other traditional stitch patterns. Although these books are in German, the stitch patterns are

charted. Franderl's books are out of pr int but are available from used book sellers at a price.

Maria Erlbacher's Oberlieferte Strickmuster aus dem Steirischen Ennstal, is a set of three booklets which provided charts fo r 174 st itch patterns as well as patterns for traditional ga rments. Originally published in German in 1982, these booklets have been combined in an English version published by Schoolhouse Press in 2009 (see book review on page 6).

Beautiful Knitting Patterns by Gisela Kle pper includes several patterns of this type. It is a translation of Die Schonsten Strickmuster published by Urnania-Ravensburger in 200 I.

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STITCH ANATOMY I

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contin11ed 011 page 37

Twist, Twisted, Traveling, Crossed It can be tricky for knitters trying to research this type of pattern who do not have access to German sources. Part of the problem is the inconsistency in knitting

terminology. For most patterns, when stitches are transposed, it is necessary to use a cable needle to hold stitches to the front or back. If a cable needle is used, these are called "cable" patterns. When just two knit stitches are transposed, the use of a cable needle isn't requi red. Many patterns

and sti tch dictionaries call th is technique

a "twist". Some sources make a distinction when a knit stitch crosses over a background stitch (generally a purl stitch). Some sources call this a nvist as well but others call it a "traveling stitch" or a "cross".

Many kn itters working on the Master

Knitting Program find this terminology a

problem. For example, Barbara Walker in A Treasury of Knitting and A Second Treasury of Knitting calls stitch patterns of this type "Twist Stitch Patterns". Although many of these may resemble Bavarian patterns, they lack one important element, as many

working on Level 3 of the Masters Program discover. Although Bavarian stitch patterns

do t\¥ist, travel or cross, they also require that all pattern stitches (kn it stitches on the righ t side) must be twisted. To accomplish

this, pattern stitches must be worked through the back.

Bavarian/ Austrian Traveling Stitch Patterns

I classify my p rojects as process or product projects. A process project is fun to knit. It is relaxing. It is the project I work o n while watching television or reading a book. Product projects are ones that might not be so much fun to knit but the final results are worth the effort. Bavarian patterns fail into this latter category. Unlike the twist stitch patterns where alternate rows are " rest" rows, every row in a Bavarian design is a pattern row. (By "rest" row I mean a row where the stitches are worked as they are presented. No thought is required.)

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Since every row is a pattern row, Bavarian stitch patterns are easier to work in the round. When worked flat, on WS rows, the purl stitches (the pattern stitches) must be worked through the back. If there is a t\¥ist on the WS, the stitches are purled instead of kn it as in most cable patterns. This makes the patterns much more complicated. The Bavarian stitch swatch in Level 3 of the Masters Program is worked flat. This demonstrates the kni tter's ability to interpret and adapt the patterns for wrong side rows.

Selecting Yarn As fo r any project, it is important to select appropriate yarn. Bavarian patterns are typically worked in wool or a wool blend. Controlling tension in patterns of this sort can be a problem and for this reason you may want to avoid inelastic fibers such as cotton and linen for your first attempts. Wool and acrylic blends are good choices for lea rning the technique. Color is another factor you must consider when working Bavarian designs. The designs wi ll not be visible in dark yarn.

Charts Bavarian designs are easier to work when a chart is provided. There is no consistency in how these designs are charted. For example, Erlbacker's books use an "8" to indicate t\¥isted stitches and arrows to indicate crosses. English books generally use some sort of symbol with an abbreviation and description. Whatever symbols are used, the important point is to t\¥ist every pattern stitch on every row.

Twist/Cross versus Cable Needle O ne of the most frustrating aspects of Bavarian patterns is dealing with the twist and cross stitches. It is up to the knitter to determine if they wish to use a cable needle for the twist/cross stitches. There are techniques for working these stitches without cable needles (see page 64). Use the method yo u like best. Whichever method you use, do not stretch the knit stitches. Oversized stitches detract from the appearance of the design.

Quality Issues Several factors determine whether the quali ty of the knitting in these designs is adequate.

Twisted stitches - All pattern stitches must be twisted . Figure I shows a swatch where

the stitches are t\¥isted only on every other row. Note that the untwisted stitches are larger. Gutters - Since the background stitches are reverse Stockinette, gutters are always a potential problem . This is particularly an issue when these designs are worked flat . Figure 2 shows a swatch with gutters. Ladders - These can be a problem whenever a stitch pattern alternates between knit and purl stitches. If the yarn is not brought forward tightly when

Figure#l

Figure #2

Figure#3

changing from a kni t to purl stitch, excess yarn is left between the column of stitches, leaving a ladder. Figure 3 shows a swatch with ladders.

Tension - As for all stitch patterns, stitches should not vary in size from row to row. It is very easy to stretch out the twisted knit stitches. Working the pattern sti tches with just the needle tips generally helps keep the stitches a consistent size.

Bavarian Panel Pillow Lesson T)1e pattern in this lesson is for a 12" x 16" pillow which is worked in the round. The Bavarian pa ttern is placed in a center panel.

In the lesson there will be an explanation of each step preceding the pattern section. Pattern instructions are boxed to set them off from the explanations. A pattern fo r a second pillow with an all-over design is also provided.

Gauge is an issue for this pillow. The gauge of Bavarian patterns, due to the twisted and traveling stitches, is smaller than the gauge for Stockinette stitch. Since thi s pillow combines both Stockinette and Bavarian patterns, the pillow is worked with smaller needles than recommended on the ball band. Knitting a pillow is d iffe rent from kni tting

a sweater. "Fit" is not as critical. It should be st retched to fit the pillow form, as over time the fabric will stretch.

Pattern Inform ation: This section provides general info rmation yo u need to work the pattern.

Bavarian Panel Pillow by Arenda Holladay

Yarn Sym bol: Medium (4) Level of Experience: In tcrmediate

Finished Measurements: Front Length: 12" Front Width: 16"

Materials:

LB Collection ORGANIC WOOL (3.5oz/100g, 185yds/170m, 100% Wool): 2 skeins Natural Size 7 ( 4.Smm) 24" (60cm ) circular needle or size needed to obtain correct gauge Tapest ry needle Cable needle Marker 12" x 16" pillow form

Gauge: In St st, 20 sts & 24 rows= 4"/10 cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Special Abbreviations: Kl b o r knit tbl - Knit thro ugh the back loop. Right Twist - Slip st to en, hold to back, kl b,

klb st on en. Left Twist - Slip st to en, hold to front, klb, k lb st on en. Right Twist, purl bg - Slip st to en, hold to back, klb, p st on en. Left Twist, purl bg - Slip st to en, hold to front, p 1, k l b st on en.

Yarn Choice LB Collection O rganic Wool was chosen fo r these pillows to g ive them a rustic look. If you desire a more polished look to the p illows, select a yarn with more twist.

Preparation - Measuring Gauge

(See gauge worksheet in box at right) The most important part of the general pattern info rmation is the description of the expected gauge. Befo re beginning it is necessary to knit a gauge swatch even if you are using the recommended yarn. Since this pattern combines two stitch

patterns, the recommended gauge fo r this ya rn is too loose. If your gauge is a bit tight, do no t worry. The pillow can stretch to accommodate the p illow fo rm. If you work the pillow cover in the specified light colored ya rn, it doesn't m atter if the pillow form shows through. Use the gauge worksheet in the box.

Pillow Front The Bavarian panel is centered in the front of the p illow. Since the pillow is worked in the round, the panel is actually centered when the pillow is seamed. The pattern specifies beginning the panel after working 14 stitches in Stockinette but the panel could be worked at any poin t. The first row worked docs not use twisted o r crossed stitches. T his row is used for seaming.

Pillow CO 132 sts. Join in rnd being careful not to twist sts. PM at beg of rnd. Est Pat: Kl4, p2, kl,p3,k2,p2,kl,p2,kl,p2,k2,p2,k l ,p2, kl, p2, k2, p3, kl , p2, k to end of rnd.

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GAUGE WORKSHEET

Wid th: _ ________ _

(l/8=.125, l/4= .25, 3/8=.375, 1/2=.5,

5/8=.625, 3/4=.75, 7/8=.875)

Number of Stitches: ___ __ _

(Do n't include the selvedge stitches)

Divide the number of stitches by the

wid th. This gives you the num ber of

stitches per inch. Do not round off

the number:

Number of Stitches Per Inch:

Multiply the number of stitches by 4.

Round th is num ber up o r down.

Number of Stitches in 4": ___ _

Repeat this procedure to determine

the row gauge.

Length: ---------­( I /8=.125, l/4=.25, 3/8=.375, 1/2=.5,

5/8=.625, 3/4= .75, 7/8=.875)

Number of Rows: _ _ ___ _

(Don't include the cast on o r bind off

edge)

Divide the number of rows by the

length. This gives you the number of

rows per inch. Do not round off the

number:

Number of Rows Per Inch: __ _

Multiply the number of rows by 4.

Round th is number up o r down.

Number of Rows in 4": _ _ __ _

If you arc getting fewer stitches than

the recommended gauge, try using a

smaller need le size.

If you are getti ng more sti tches than

the recommended gauge, try using a

larger needle size.

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STITCH ANATOMY

continued from page 39

Rnd 1: K 14, work Rnd l of Chart A, Rnd 1 of Chart B, Rnd I of Chart C, k to end of rnd. Cont in pat as est until piece meas 12". BO in pat.

DESIGNER NOTE The center motif (Chart B) of Bavarian panel should be centered length-wise on the pillow. To center it length-wise, work three repeats of Chart B and then Rows 1·7 once.

Finishing It really isn't necessary to block the pillow top as it will be stretched over the pillow form. If you block the top, you run the risk of stretching it out too much. Any yarn tails should be woven in before the pillow is complete. Turn the pillow inside out. Use the duplicate stitch method to weave in the yarn tails, the mattress stitch to seam the sides, and the invisible horizontal seam technique to seam the cast on and bind off edges. The Reference Section on page 76 provides sources for these techniques.

Weave in all yarn tails. Make sure the Bavarian panel is centered on the front. Place the pillow form in the pillow and stretch to fit. Sew the bind off edges together. Secure the end and thread the yarn tail to the inside and then pull to the outside.

Modifying the Pattern for a Different Sized Pillow or Different Yarn It is easy to modify this pattern fo r a larger pillow by following simple steps: l. Determine the number of stitches in your

gauge. 2. Multiply the number o f stitches per inch

by the size of the pillow to find the total number of stitches needed for the pillow.

3. Add or deduct Stockinette stitches on either side of the Bavarian panel to accommodate the number of stitches you need for the pillow.

Designing Your Own Pillow It is fairly easy to design a pillow using

40 Cast 011 • November 201 0- January 20 11

Chart A I 8 I 7 I 6 I 5 I 4 I 3 I 2 I 1 I Legend:

B • • • ;/A • • 5 purl

- B • • ;/A B • • -.;-- B knit tbl

- B • ;/ A 1

• B • • 3 ;/ ,<. Right Twis t , purl bg

- B;/A •• B •• 2 =;/A ••• B •• 1

Notes: Remembe r to worl< a n knit stt ches tlYough the back loop.

Chart B i1s i11i1&i1sl 14l13i12i 11 l1ol 9 I s I 71 G f s I ~ f 3 f 2 i 1 I Legend:

purl

B knit tbl

y ,<. Right Twist

>--'-' Lelt Twist, purl bg

;/ ,<. Right Twist, purl bg

>--'< Lelt Twist

• • B • • B • • BB • • B • • B • • :>

• • B • • B • • YA • • B • • B • • ~

• • B • • B • • B B • • B • • B • • 3

• • B • • B • • BB • • B • • B • • 2

• • B • • B •• YA • • B • • B • • I

Chart C I 8 I 7 I 6 I s I 4 I 3 I 2 I 1 I legend:

• • A". • • • B ~ A"- Lelt Twist, purl bg

• • B A"'. • • B ...!_ • 1mrl

- • ' • I B • :A"'. • B 2._ B knit tbl

- •• BeeA"'.B 2 • • B•• • A"'. 1

Bavarian stitch patterns. The stitch patterns require more than 14 stitches. Once you have determined the number of stitches required to make the pillow, select pattern stitches. These pattern stitches may be worked in a center panel or in an all over design as in the Bubbles pillow. The pattern for this pillow follows. The Reference Section in this magazine provides a list of books which are devoted to patterns of this sort or provide some examples of the stitch patterns.

Conclusion Bavarian designs are far more work than other types of stitch patterns. All rows are

pattern rows. Even when worked in the round, this requires careful attentio n. When Bavarian patterns are worked flat , making sure tha1 the pattern is maintained on the WS can be quite difficult. It is fo r this reason that the Bavarian Traveling swatch in Level 3 of the Master Knitting Program is worked flat.

References This is by no means a complete listing of every book which includes Bavarian patterns bu t it is a good place to start.

Erlbacher, Maria, Twisted-Stitch Knitting, Schoolhouse Press, Pittsv ille, WI, 2009.

Pander!, Lisi, Biiuerliches Stricken 1-3, Rosenheimer Verlagshaus, Rosenheim, Germany, 2001. Klepper, Gisela, Beautiful Knitting Patterns, Sterling Publishing Co., NY, NY, 2005, pgs. 99-104 Buss, Katarina, Big Book of Knitting, Sterling Publishing Co., NY, NY, 1996, pgs. 222-225 Walker, Barbara, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, WI, 1998, pgs. 114-127* Walker, Barbara, A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, WJ, 1998, pgs. 143-164*

*The patterns in these books are not true Bavarian Travel ing st itch patterns as they do not specify that all pattern stitches be worked th rough the back loop. However, they may be altered to conform to the requiremen ts of Bavarian Traveling patterns.

Bubbles Pillow by Arenda Holladay

This pillow features an all-over Bavarian stitch pattern which gives the pillow a more contemporary look.

Yarn Symbol: Medium 4 Level of Experience: Intermediate

Bubbles Cha r t

Finish ed Measuremen ts: Front Width: 14" Front Length: 14"

Materials: LB Collection O RGANIC WOOL (3.Soz/lOOg, 185yds/170m, 100% Wool): 2 skein s Natural Size 9 (5.Smm ) 24" (60cm) circula r needle or size needed to obtain correct gauge Tapestry need le Cable needle 14" x 14" pillow form

Gauge: In Bubbles pat, 20 sts & 24 rows== 4"/10 cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Special Abbreviations: Kl band knit tbl - Kn it through the back loop. Right Twist- Slip st to en, hold to back, kl b, klb st on en. Left Twist - Slip st to en, hold to fron t, kl b, klb st on en. Right Twist, purl bg - Slip st to en, hold to back, klb, p st on en. Left Twist, purl bg - Slip st to en, hold to front, pl, klb st on en.

DESIGNER NOTE LB Collection Organic Wool was chosen for this pillow to give it a rustic look. If you desire a more polished look, select a

yarn with more twist. Due to the all-over pattern, the needle size recommended for the yarn was used for this pillow. This pillow is also worked in the round.

DESIGNER NOTE To balance the pattern on the pillow, Round 1 of the chart is worked four times at the bottom of the pillow and Round 16 is worked four times at the top.

Pillow CO 140 sts. Join rnd being carefu l not to twist sts. PM at beg of rnd. Work Rnd 1 of Bubbles Chart across all sts. Rep Rnd I three more t imes. v\Tork Rnds 2-16. Work in pat as est until piece meas 14". BO in pat.

DESIGNER NOTE The Bubbles pattern will be centered on the length of the pillow if five repeats of Bubbles Chart is worked.

Finishing Weave in all ya rn tails. Making sure the Bubbles pattern is centered on the pillow and using the invisible horizontal seam, sew the cast o n edges together. Place the pillow fo rm in the pillow and stretch to fi t. Use the horizontal seam, sew the bind off edges together. Secure the end and thread the yarn tail to the inside and then pull to the outside.

i2sl21i2Gi2sl2-1 i23l22 i21120!t91 1sl11!tGl 1s l1-1inl 12l 11 i10l 9 is I 71GI5 I 4 I 312 I 1 I Legend:

B • • • • 8 • • 8 • • • • B • • B • • B • • B • • B • • 16

B •••• A"-\,;/ A •••• B •• A"-\.;/ A •• A"-\,;/ A •• t 5 e.

_ A"-\. • • • • YA • • • • ;/A • • • A'< • • • • YA • • • 14 >-." • A"-\. • • ;/AA"-\. • • ;/A • • • ;/AA"-\. • • ;/AA"-\. • • ~ ;/ ,,< • • A"-\.;/ A • • A"-\.;/ A • • • ;/A • • A"-\.;/ A • • A"-\. • .E.. y ,<. • • • A'< • • • • YA • • • ;/A • • • • YA • • • • A"-\.~ >-- '< •• ;/AA"-\. •• ;/AA"-\. •• B •••• ;/AA"-\. •••• B~ • • B • • 8 • • B • • B • • B • • • • B • • B • • • • B 9

• • 8 • • 8 • • B • • B • • B • • • • B • • B • • • • B s •• A"-\.;/A •• A"-\.;/A •• B•••• A"-\.;/A •••• B7 ••• A'< •••• YA ••• A"-\. •••• YA •••• ;/A 6

•• ;/AA"-\. •• ;/AA"-\. ••• A"-\. •• ;/AA"-\. •• ;/A • ~ - . ;/A •• A"-\.;/A •• A"-\. ••• A"-\.;/A •• A"-\.;/A •• ~ - ;/A•••• YA •••• A"-\. ••• A'< •••• YA ••• 3 - B•••• ;/AA"-\. •••• B•• ;/AA"-\. •• ;/AA"-\. •• 2

B • • • • 8 • • 8 • • • • B • • B • • B • • B • • B • • I

Notes: Remeber to work every knit stitch through the back loop.

purl

knit t bl

Left Twist , purl bg

Righ t Twist , purl bg

Right Twist

Left Twist

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