Issue 2

April 2015 Sheltie Showcase

THE SHETLAND SHEEPDO G

Kayani The Jurys Out

2

Acknowledgements

A sincere thank you to the following people for their helpful input and contribution - Jan Grice, Maureen Bywater, Marilyn

Marlow, Petrina Limkin, Donna Saltau, Makaela Edmondson, Glad McIntosh, Deirdre Crofts, Sue & Karen Lishman, Christine

Klempel, Ashlea Stanton, Rosa Bleu, Kim Tresidder, Lyndsey Jones, Ann Harrison, Isobel Khawaja, Derek & Phyllis Rigby, Traci

Addison, Cheryl Lockett, Debby Fisher, Aidan Burke, Emilio Castillo & Patrick Fortune.

Information included is for the reader’s interest, and does not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the editor or

contributors. Care has been taken to ensure accuracy, but errors may occur. A reminder to always seek advice from a

veterinarian when needed.

Table of Contents

3-4. Helen & Scotty Clinton & ‘Tam’

5. Interpretation of the Standard. N Levine; Walter S Hunting painting

6-8. Manchester Ch Show results

9. Canberra Royal results

10. MDRI defect

11. Westminster Show results

12-16. Crufts conformation results

17. Shellamoyed The Statesman JW

18-19. Raising Litters - Early Neurological Stimulation. C L Battaglia

20. Sheltie Ears. D Saltau & C Lockett

21. NZ Ch Show critique; Toowoomba Royal results

22-23. Lythwood Shelties - The Record Makers

24-25. Puppy Development at Lingard. J Cunningham Jeu

26. Picking a Puppy. H Waring; Making dog toys interesting

27-30. Isobel Khawaja

31. Crufts obedience results

32. Q & A with Lyndsey Jones

33. Sheltie Diaries to Purchase

34. Show results: Sydney & Sweden

35. Kayani The Jurys Out - Bright Future

36. Ch Kelanmee Treasured Timepiece (AI) - Bright Future

37. Grooming and Presentation Trends. A Reznick; ACES Report.

A O’Hara & B Robertson; Tuna Treats. A Durn

38. Dog Stories

39. Examination & Waiting. I Dunbar; ASSA Children’s Story Book

40. Having an Eye for a Dog & Obtaining the Eye. G Bernardi

41. Crufts Facts

44. What is Ideal? T Coen

45. SA National schedule

46. SSCNSW Ch Show 2014 critique

47. Secrets & Strategies for Show Ring Success

48. Sup Ch Kelanmee Autumn Aria

49. Ir Ch, Lux Ch Irish Legend of Navarrem; ASSA

National details

50. Edburton Paladin (imp UK)

51. Sheltie & Collie Ear Trimming DVD

52-54. Aust & NZ Ch Charmhill Noahs Crusade ROMA

55-56. How do you chose your show dog names?

57. Why are some litters larger than others? C L

Battaglia

58-59. Sup Ch Lurikeen Turn Up Th Heat - High

Honours

60-61. UK & Aust Sup Ch Rannerdale The Time Warp

(imp UK) - High Honours

62-63. Gr Ch Deerod Give me The Night ROMA - High

Honours

64. Sheltie Breeder Q & A. D Saltau & A Stanton

65. A sheep who thinks it’s a dog

66. Sup Ch Kelanmee Richly Decked

67. UK Show reults

68. Shellamoyed Simply Gold JW

69. Makaela Edmondson & the Xolo

70. Days gone by..

Happy Easter

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Remembering Helen and Scotty Clinton, and a dog named “Tam” Eng & Aust Ch Riverhill Rampion (imp UK)

Much has been written on UK import, Eng & Aust Ch Riverhill Rampion (imp UK), DOB 2/11/1966 (Sire: Stalisfield Samphire x Dam: Eng Ch Riverhill Rather Nice). Tam was the sire of 29 Australian, 2 Australian/New Zealand and 5 New Zealand Champions. He was exported to Australia in 1968 and gained his Australian title the following year.

The most notable offspring of Tam were his sons Ch Anmoray Gay Shannon (sire of 18 Champions), Ch Jentam Yendys Yeldeh (sire of 11 Champions), NZ Ch Rolling Stone of Twoseas (sire of 11 Champions) and Ch Jentam Sonsuki Tamson (behind Kimbush stock).

A testament to the significant influence that Tam had was his ability to produce quality offspring, even to ‘average’ bitches and therefore came at a crucial time in the development of the breed where he assisted in enhancing the depth of breed quality. His UK breeder, Felicity M Rogers, was well-known for her quality stock and was one of the early pioneers for the breed in that country.

No two people were more proud of Tam than his owners Helen and Scotty Clinton. Helen was born in Omeo, Victoria and became a nurse, while Scotty arrived from Aberdeen, Scotland aged 18 years, and was a sheep shearer. Later he joined the Army where he drove trucks from Alice Springs to Darwin. They met while Helen was a nurse, and Scotty a patient. Helen joined the SSCV in 1965, with both Helen and Scotty later both becoming Patrons of the club.

Their dedication to the breed was evident in their willingness to embark on the arduous and unfamiliar venture of importing a dog from overseas. A hard enough task to do in today’s climate, let alone back in the late 1960’s. Tam arrived by boat along with Riverhill Readybrek (imp UK), who was destined for Myrtle and Harry Waring (Twoseas, NZ). From this point the Clintons and Warings struck up an enduring friendship. The conditions on the ship were poor, and not helpful for a 13 month old Sheltie’s temperament. The ship’s crew would shine torches into the dogs’ crates for inspection. In turn, Tam later developed an aversion to any vets who used a light for examination and would often shy away.

Tam sired a litter in the UK before he left. An incredibly smart dog - when Helen spoke to certain impending visitors on the phone, and would say “see you in a half hour”, Tam would then, not straight away, but closer to a half hour later, jump up on Helen’s chair and peer out the window in anticipation. He chose which visitors were his favourites, and would sit right beside them enjoying a lengthy pat.

Tam was before my time, but when I visited Helen and Scotty with my Grandma Glad McIntosh, who would regularly drop in to their home after a dog show, I often heard about him as if he were still happily trotting around the backyard. Helen and Scotty lived in a period weather-board home, situated proudly on a street corner. Helen worked tirelessly as the SSCV historian for many years, and kept the charts meticulously up to date - always in her calligraphy hand-writing. She had an artistic flair - you may have seen some of the paintings she created around a photographed Tam, one with a stream in the background and another with rolling green hills. She would also make her own birthday/greeting cards, which if you were lucky, would feature either a 4 or 5 leaf clover. Scotty was also a keen gardener, and managed to breed a hybrid (new colour) rose - to which he named “Rampion”.

Scotty would often give me special ‘dog chocolate’ drops that he kept in a match box, for me to feed the “Ardvasar” Sheltie clan when we visited. Of course if you are a child - you love to give treats to dogs, so this was always great fun. The dogs were often in the lounge room - lying peacefully when we were all seated. But - when it was time to leave, they certainly found their voices. There was no point in verbal good byes - we could no longer hear over the dog yaps! There must have been a cheeky ring-leader long ago who taught everyone that little ‘trick’! Surely it wasn't the gentleman Tam.

At 9 years of age, in 1975, Tam crossed the Tasman to stay with Myrtle and Harry Waring for a short while where he stood at stud. Harry described Tam as “...a loving, responsive lad, eager to please, full of fun and games even at 9 years old, but a perfect gentleman always. It was very hard for us to part with him. This lovely fellow once in your heart stayed there - and not because of who he was and his achievements - but just for himself”. On the 29th January, 1981, the great Tam passed away at the grand old age of 14 years.

We pay tribute to Helen and Scotty Clinton and a dog named “Tam” - for their ever-lasting contribution to the breed. In moving forward, we should take the time to look back and reflect on the solid foundations to which we developed from, and those who made it happen.

By Megan Mathers, thanks to Glad McIntosh

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Tam’s son Ch Jentam Yendys

Yeldeh (R), and Tam’s

granddaughter Ch Jentam

Highland Dream (L)

Scotty

Tam before he left the UK

Helen with Tam (in the coat) and Ch Ardvasar

Jindivick (his grandson)

Tam painting by Helen

Tam as a youngster

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Interpretations of the Standard – The Head, By J. Nate Levine

This article named above was written for the 1969-1970 ASSA Handbook, and can be accessed via the

internet. Here is an excerpt and final comments:

…. “Well”, you may say, “There is no perfect Sheltie,” and that is true enough. Also, true is that there are

fewer really terrible Pomeranian type heads to be seen today. But, is the fact that we have succeeded in

improving the quality of the average Sheltie really progress? Are masses of mediocre dogs really a good

substitute for the few great ones we saw in the forties and fifties but don’t see any longer? Where are the

ones that caught your eye as they walked into the ring and made even the rankest amateur know that here

was a dog of superb quality?

How can we regain that quality? First we must admit that we don’t have it. Next we must realise that a lack

of faults in a dog does not necessarily mean that he possesses great virtues. In other words, are we better

off breeding to a dog with good body and coat, ok movement, pretty markings and a mediocre head…or to

a dog with a really outstanding headpiece, with maybe not quite the coat or body of the former dog? What

can we gain by breeding to the first dog? Probably some more mediocre Shelties. Certainly he will not

provide us with the opportunity to produce a great headpiece on a dog improved in body and coat as would

the second dog.

You must make the choice…whether to base the selection of stud dogs on lack of faults and settle for

mediocrity…or select on the basis of positive virtues with a chance to get that great one! And what is that

great one? Certainly not the Sheltie perfect from behind the ears to the tip of his tail!

*******************************************************

Do you have this painting? Some of us may have this painting, or know a Sheltie person who does. Painted by English Artist Walter S. Hunt (1861 - 1941), this painting, ‘Found by a Friend’ was a treasured image of the Victorian era. Most people thought the painting was of a Sheltie or Collie, but in actual fact it depicts an English Shepherd. This popular image was reproduced by the thousands in the early 20th century as litho prints and on calendars. It adorned the walls of many farms and ranches in the US. The version below on the left is believed to be the original painting, whilst the image on the right was thought to be reproduction (with the darker, more solid coat making it look more like a Sheltie) and remains popular today.

‘Found by a Friend’ - Left: the original, English Shepherd. Right: reproduction, more representative of a Sheltie

English Shepherd - English Shepherds are natural low heelers, with strong

herding instinct. They exhibit agility, stamina, and stout hearted

perseverance and will use the amount of force necessary to accomplish the

job. Primarily a stock dog, the English Shepherd has also traditionally been

used for hunting and as a watchdog in addition to being the family pet.

Recently there has been a growing interest in the English Shepherd as an

athlete for competitive events such as Agility, Flyball and Frisbee.

References: www.englishshepherd.org, websites Walter S. Hunt, Kyt Eubanks

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BEST OF BREED : 6715 CASTILLO, Mr E & FORTUNE Mr P Ir Ch Lux Ch Irish Legend of Navarrem

Dog CC : 6715 CASTILLO, Mr E & FORTUNE Mr P Ir Ch Lux Ch Irish Legend of Navarrem

Res Dog CC : 6779 PEARSON Miss D Ch Edglonian Singin The Blues

Bitch CC : 6743 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Rannerdale Some Like It Hot At Highbrook

Res Bitch CC : 6784 RIGBY Mr D Lythwood Sculptress

Best Puppy : 6774 MOTTRAM Mr & Mrs K F & J Anastasia Dreamer At Lochkaren NAF

Best Veteran : 6816 WHITCHURCH Miss C A Emmaview Bucks Fizz

DOGS

CLASS 1516 MPD (4 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6772 MOTTRAM Mr & Mrs K F & J Midday Sun At Lochkaren NAF

2nd: 6722 DOWNES Mrs J Milwyr Mississippi Mud Pie

3rd: 6739 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Briggsview Mystical Blue TAF

Res: 6749 HILL Dr J Tegens Astrakan (imp Swed) ARAF

VHC:

CLASS 1517 PD (4 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6790 RULE Mr D R & Mrs I A Bleatarn Star Trooper

2nd: 6730 FISHER Mrs D J Shellamoyed The Statesman

3rd: 6786 ROBINSON Mrs S Japaro Chase The Dream At Lavika

Res: 6811 WALKER Mrs S J Tooralie's Just The Tonic

VHC:

CLASS 1518 JD (10 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6701 AARON Mrs C Mastermind At Shelridge

2nd: 6740 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Highbrook Home Brew

3rd: 6790 RULE Mr D R & Mrs I A Bleatarn Star Trooper

Res: 6730 FISHER Mrs D J Shellamoyed The Statesman

VHC: 6727 EWING Mr M J Sommerville Tri Mac Cool

CLASS 1519 YD (8 Entries) Abs: 2

1st: 6782 RIGBY Mr D Lythwood Secret Dealer

2nd: 6699 AARON Mrs C Shelridge Sangiovese JW

3rd: 6818 WINFIELD Mrs V Oakcroft Prince Charming

Res: 6753 KENDRICK Mrs S Meisterwork My Buddy

VHC: 6776 McCOURT, Mrs M & HAYES Mrs G Conorvean Tonkin

CLASS 1520 PGD (11 Entries) Abs: 2

1st: 6745 PICKETT Mrs E Samphrey Simply Because

2nd: 6791 SAUNDERS Mrs I V Chalmoor Shades Of Gold At Fernfrey JW

3rd: 6728 FARLEY, Mrs D & JOHN Mrs G Hawk Blue Eye Des Romarins De Mayerling Joins Aube

Res: 6762 MCLAREN Mrs B M Felthorn Conspiracy

VHC: 6789 RULE Mr C D Edglonian Lets Rock at Bleatarn

1521 LD (10 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6809 THORNLEY Mr R D & Mrs B A Felthorn Jazz Singer JW

2nd: 6741 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Lianbray Lovehart At Highbrook JW

3rd: 6764 MILES Mrs J Lavika Time Will Tell At Milesend

Res: 6817 WHITTINGTON Mrs L K Tighness Three Card Trick

VHC: 6759 LAWSON Mrs E Morestyle Crushed Ice

Show Results - Manchester Championship Show, Sat 17th January, 2015

Judge: Mr Ray Grice (UK)

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1522 OD (9 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6715 CASTILLO, Mr E & FORTUNE Mr P Ir Ch Lux Ch Irish Legend of Navarrem

2nd: 6779 PEARSON Miss D Ch Edglonian Singin The Blues

3rd: 6812 WALKER Mrs S J Dippersmoor Star Gazer By Tooralie

Res: 6773 MOTTRAM Mr & Mrs K F & J Ch Sheldon Simply Simon Of Lochkaren JW (imp Swed)

VHC: 6792 SAUNDERS Mrs I V Dunbrae Bond's Wish Of Gold For Fernfrey

1523 VD (3 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6816 WHITCHURCH Miss C A Emmaview Bucks Fizz

2nd: 6821 WOODWARD Mr & Mrs R P & I Y Kelgrove Shaded Dreams

3rd: 6794 SAVAGE Mr P J & Mrs P Shellthorn Storm In A Teacup at Savataurus Sh.CM

Res:

VHC:

BITCHES

CLASS 1524 MPB (11 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6774 MOTTRAM Mr & Mrs K F & J Anastasia Dreamer At Lochkaren NAF

2nd: 6723 EDWARDS Mr & Mrs J E L & J B Castlerose Bush Baby

3rd: 6704 BARNETT, Mr L C & Mrs D L & HARDMAN Mrs J Iced Ginger (prefix pend.)

Res: 6777 PARKER Ms E Y Tolarock Such A Treat

VHC: 6752 JEENES Mrs S J Ontoco Flirt In A Skirt

CLASS 1525 PB (9 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6769 MILES Mrs J Milesend Black Silk

2nd: 6723 EDWARDS Mr & Mrs J E L & J B Castlerose Bush Baby

3rd: 6802 STAFFORD Miss C J Rannerdale Lady Prunella

Res: 6799 SMALLEY Mrs H M Glanure Blue Jazmin

VHC: 6800 SMEE Mrs D Wansvale Midnight Starlet

CLASS 1526 JB (7 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6783 RIGBY Mr D Lythwood Shara

2nd: 6734 FRENCH Mrs L S Lindfern Bee Enchanted JW

3rd: 6765 MILES Mrs J Milesend Bluebell

Res: 6742 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Highbrook Hot Fizz

VHC: 6744 GRUSZKA Mr S & Mrs D Samphrey Sea Breeze

CLASS 1527 YB (7 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6784 RIGBY Mr D Lythwood Sculptress

2nd: 6711 BRAY Mrs G Lianbray Locked In Love JW

3rd: 6770 MOORE Mrs S A Sanscott Sweet City Woman JW

Res: 6703 AMBLER Mrs J & Mr M Chalmoor I'm Indi JW

VHC: 6732 FITZ-HARRIS Miss H Abuela's Dicey Reilly

CLASS 1528 PGB (12 Entries) Abs: 5

1st: 6747 HAYHURST Ms S Keycharm Blue Seranade JW

2nd: 6766 MILES Mrs J Daisyway Skyrock Of Milesend

3rd: 6731 FISHER Mrs D J Shellamoyed Simply Gold JW

Res: 6805 SWEENEY Mrs J Peartbrook Sky Blue

VHC: 6804 SUTHERLAND Mrs D & Mr I Holamber Diamond Princess

CLASS 1529 LB (15 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6738 GATHERAL Miss M G Herds Hallelujah JW

2nd: 6720 DEVESON Mrs M F Lucky Liaison at Lianbray Sh.CM

3rd: 6787 ROBINSON Mrs S Lavika Summer Time JW

Res: 6705 BARNETT, Mr L C & Mrs D L & HARDMAN Mrs J Rainway Returning To Seavall JW

VHC: 6733 FORBES Miss F M A Wellneuk Dancing Waters JW Sh.CM

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CLASS 1530 OB (10 Entries) Abs: 1

1st: 6743 GOODWIN Mrs L A & Mr K Rannerdale Some Like It Hot At Highbrook

2nd: 6768 MILES Mrs J Ch Shellthorn Solar Storm

3rd: 6716 CASTILLO, Mr E & FORTUNE Mr P Can Ch Grandgables Romantica (imp Can)

Res: 6700 AARON Mrs C Shelridge Socialite JW

VHC: 6714 BYWATER Mrs M Ch Tachnamadra Evisu

CLASS 1531 VB (5 Entries) Abs: 0

1st: 6813 WALKER Mrs S J Aust Ch Tooralie Tickle My Fancy

2nd: 6756 KHAWAJA, Mrs S & KHAWAJA, Miss I & HARRISON Miss Smiddyshaw Rumba Carumba

3rd: 6760 LINFORD Miss D Chalmoor Withering Heights At Hillhenry

Res: 6758 LANSDOWN, Mr R J & LLANSDOWN Mrs J E Hascosay Special Lady

VHC: 6735 GAMBLE Ms H Balidorn Mixed Emotions Sh.CM

BOB & Dog CC: Ir Ch Lux Ch Irish Legend of Navarrem

RUBOB & Bitch CC: Rannerdale Some Like It Hot At Highbrook

Judge: Mr Ray Grice (UK)

Photos courtesy of Patrick Fortune & Emilio Castillo. Results thanks to Jan Grice.

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Ir Ch Lux Ch Irish

Legend of Navarrem

then went on to Group 2 in

Pastoral Group

ROYAL CANBERRA SHOW Saturday 28 February, 2015

Judge: Mr L Pichard (Switzerland)

PD 1st S Fox SHELMANNA PLAYING FOR KEEPS* 2nd VJ Royston JUZVEE BLUE SKY AHEAD

ID 1st S Turner CH MONTAGE ESCAPADE

OD 1st L Berrill SUP CH SHELMANNA STARS N STRIPES* 2nd N Pearson CH LYNDREAM STRICTLY SPEAKING

CC SUP CH SHELMANNA STARS N STRIPES - BOB Res CH MONTAGE ESCAPADE SHELMANNA PLAYING FOR KEEPS - Best Puppy in Group *Best of class

PB 1st S Fox SHELMANNA SHINE LIKE A DIAMOND 2nd Shelbrae Kn SHELBRAE SO ITS ME ME ME

JB 1st E Lasry MONTAGE FANTASIA*

IB 1st L Vandeluytgaarden KIENO DREAM OF MELODY* 2nd MC Gostelow GLENKINCHIE JANE EYRE

ABB 1st T Walters CH SHARNDAH BUTTERFLY SECRET* 2nd L Berrill CH SHELMANNA SWEET SERENDER

OB 1st N Pearson CH HARTLY WITCH CRAFT 2nd L Berrill SUP CH SHELMANNA ZULU MOONBEAMS 3rd K Tresidder SUP CH KELANMEE AUTUMN ARIA

CC CH SHARNDAH BUTTERFLY SECRET – RU BOB Res SUP CH SHELMANNA ZULU MOONBEAMS

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MDR1 – (multi-drug resistance gene) Defect

MDR1 is a genetic disorder found in some breeds. Dogs with this problem, when treated with certain drugs, are unable to pump out these drugs from the brain. As a result, poisoning and neurologic symptoms like tremors, anorexia, excess salivation, blindness, coma and even death can occur.

Dogs with the disorder lack a protein (P-Glycoprotein) (responsible for shifting drugs and toxins from the brain). Dogs show signs of toxicity because they are unable to stop drugs from permeating their brains. This condition is due to a mutation in the multi-drug resistance gene (MDR1).

According to Washington State University (US), Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology Lab:

Drugs that have been documented to cause problems in dogs with the MDR1 mutation

Acepromazine (tranquilizer and pre-anesthetic agent). Tends to cause more profound and prolonged sedation. The University recommends reducing the dose by 25% in dogs heterozygous for the MDR1 mutation (mutant/normal) and by 30-50% in dogs homozygous for the MDR1 mutation (mutant/mutant).

Butorphanol (analgesic and pre-anesthetic agent). Tends to cause more profound and prolonged sedation. Same recommendation as above.

Emodepside (Profender). A deworming drug. Has resulted in neurological toxicity.

Erythromycin. May cause neurological signs.

Ivermectin (antiparasitic agent). While the dose of ivermectin used to prevent heartworm is safe in dogs with the mutation (6 micrograms per kilogram), higher doses, such as those used for treating mange (300-600 micrograms per kilogram) will cause neurological toxicity in dogs that are homozygous for the MDR1 mutation (mutant/mutant) and can cause toxicity in dogs that are heterozygous for the mutation (mutant/normal).

Loperamide (Imodium; antidiarrheal agent). At doses used to treat diarrhea, this drug will cause neurological toxicity in dogs with the MDR1 mutation.

Selamectin, milbemycin, and moxidectin (antaparasitic agents). Similar to ivermectin, these drugs are safe in dogs with the mutation if used for heartworm prevention at the manufacturer's recommended dose. Higher doses (generally 10-20 times higher than the heartworm prevention dose) have been documented to cause neurological toxicity.

Vincristine, Vinblastine, Doxorubicin (chemotherapy agents). Dogs are more sensitive to these drugs with regard to their likelihood of having an adverse drug reaction. Bone marrow suppression (decreased blood cell counts, particularly neutrophils) and GI toxicity (anorexia, vomiting, diarrhea) are more likely to occur at normal doses in dogs with the MDR1 mutation. To reduce the likelihood of severe toxicity in these dogs, MDR1 mutant/normal dogs should have their dose reduced by 25% while MDR1 mutant/mutant dogs should have their dose reduced by a full 50%. These patients should be closely monitored for adverse effects.

Drugs that are known to be pumped out of the brain by the protein that the MDR1 gene is responsible for

producing, but appear to be safely tolerated by dogs with the MDR1 mutation

Cyclosporin (immunosuppressive agent). The University doesn’t recommend altering the dose of cyclosporin for dogs with the MDR1 mutation, but they do recommend therapeutic drug monitoring.

Digoxin (cardiac drug). As above.

Doxycycline (antibacterial drug). The University doesn’t recommend altering the dose of doxycycline for dogs with the MDR1 mutation.

Drugs that may be pumped out by the protein that the MDR1 gene is responsible for producing, but

appear to be safely tolerated by dogs with the MDR1 mutation

Morphine, buprenorphine, fentanyl (opioid analgesics or pain medications). The University is not aware of any reports of toxicity caused by these drugs in dogs with the MDR1 mutation. They do not have specific dose recommendations for these drugs for dogs with the MDR1 mutation.

The following drugs have been reported to be pumped by P-glycoprotein (the protein encoded by the MDR1) in humans, but there is currently no data stating whether they are or are not pumped by canine P-glycoprotein. Therefore the University suggests using caution when administering these drugs to dogs with the MDR1 mutation. Domperidone; Etoposide; Mitoxantrone; Ondansetron; Paclitaxel; Rifampicin.

There are many other drugs that have been shown to be pumped by human P-glycoprotein, but data is not yet available with regard to their effect in dogs with the MDR1 mutation.

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Trait of Inheritance Clear Genotype: N/N Homozygous normal The dog is noncarrier of the mutant gene. The dog will never develop MDR1 Gene Defect and therefore it can be bred to any other dog. Carrier Genotype: N/MDR1 Heterozygous The dog carries one copy of the mutant gene and one copy of the normal gene. The dog may develop MDR1 Gene Defect. Since it carries the mutant gene, it can pass it on to its offspring with the probability of 50%. Affected Genotype: MDR1/MDR1 Homozygous mutant The dog carries two copies of the mutant gene and therefore it will pass the mutant gene to its entire offspring. The dog will develop MDR1 Gene Defect. References: www.laboklin.co.uk; www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/drugs.aspx

Sire Dam Offspring

clear x clear > 100% clear

clear x carrier > 50% clear + 50% carriers

clear x affected > 100% carriers

carrier x clear > 50% clear + 50% carriers

carrier x carrier > 25% clear + 25% affected + 50%

carriers

carrier x affected > 50% carriers + 50% affected

affected x clear > 100% carriers

affected x carrier > 50% carriers + 50% affected

affected x affected > 100% affected

Bred by Exhibitor Dogs

1/W: Stellar's Next Generation (D)

Bred by Exhibitor Bitches

1/W/WB: Rosmoor Maleficent (B)

B - GCH Suncrest Cerulean (B)

OS - GCH Solange Valedictorian (D)

SEL - GCH Shadow Hill's Blueprint (D)

SEL - GCH Acadia Stage Presence (B)

AOM - GCH Shadow Hill's Star Chaser (B)

AOM - GCH Serenity's Walk In The Park (D)

Westminster Show Results

Photo: John Ashby, Mary Bloom, Lisa Croft-Elliott, Charles Tatham,

Westminster Archives. GCH Suncrest Cerulean

Judge: Mr Guy Jeavons

February 16, 2015

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Fri 6th March, 2015

The judge for dogs: Mrs D Rowan - UK The Judge for bitches: Mrs G Partridge - UK

Crufts - Results

CH EDGLONIAN SINGIN THE BLUES - Sid CH TACHNAMADRA EVISU - Evie

Photo dog - Hilary Gamble, Photo bitch - By Lana

Best of Breed & Dog CC - CH EDGLONIAN SINGIN THE BLUES - MISS D PEARSON

Bitch CC - CH TACHNAMADRA EVISU - MRS M BYWATER Dog Res CC - SHEMIST BLACK WIZARD - MRS S STOCK

Bitch Res CC - SANSCOTT SWEET CITY WOMAN JW - MRS S MOORE Best Puppy - SHELLAMOYED THE STATESMAN - MRS D J FISHER

Dogs Veteran 1. CH RANNERDALE BUGSY MALONE (MRS A A STAFFORD) 2. CH STEVLYN COPPERSMITH AT MALAROC JW (MR B S & MRS L J ROBERTS) 3. CH PEERIEGLEN PICKWICK JW SHCM (MRS J & MRS J DIMENT & WILLIAMS) Res CH LIZMARK LOOK THIS WAY JW SHCM (MRS G M HULL) VHC GUXEL STARTIME (MR A J & MRS C J HEELS)

Minor Puppy 1. MIDDAY SUN AT LOCHKAREN (MR K F & MRS J MOTTRAM) 2. BRIGGSVIEW MYSTICAL BLUE AT HIGHBROOK NAF (MR K & MRS L A GOODWIN)

Puppy 1. SHELLAMOYED THE STATESMAN (MRS D J FISHER) 2. RANNERDALE LORD FAWLTY (MRS A A STAFFORD) 3. MILWYR MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE (MRS J DOWNES) Res NOSS COURTEOUS JOVIAL JOHAN OF LIZMARK (IMP NLD) (MRS G M HULL) VHC AVONWICK BLACK JACK AT SANTIARA (D MOORE)

Junior 1. HERDS HUMPHREY JW (MISS M G GATHERAL) 2. DEGALLO THE SHOW MUST GO ON (MR D MCDONALD) 3. MASTERMIND AT SHELRIDGE (MRS C AARON) Res CHALMOOR MR BLUE SKY (MR & MRS J & E SANGSTER) VHC NAPOLTONE DI BONAPARTE VAN'T NEVELSE (MR F & MRS B VAN HOOREBEKE & D'HONDT)

Yearling 1. DANCING TO THE BLUES AT EDGLONIAN (MISS D PEARSON) 2. LYTHWOOD SECRET DEALER (MR D RIGBY) 3. ROSSBETHANY STORM PRINCE (MS S & MISS B KING) Res SHELRIDGE SANGIOVESE JW (MRS C AARON) VHC PEPPERHILL IN THE ZONE JW (MRS M & MISS S DANIELS & TAYLOR)

Graduate 1. LAVIKA MIRROR MAN JW (MRS S ROBINSON) 2. PUNCKNOWLE GOLDEN SUNLIGHT AT KIEMONT JW (MRS D BLADON) 3. RENGALA TAKEN BY STORM JW (MISS E PURDIE) Res HAWK BLUE EYE DES ROMARINS DE MAYERLING JOINS AUBERSWELL JW (IMP FRA) (MESDAMES D & G FARLEY & JOHN) VHC MORESTYLE CRUSHED ICE (MRS E LAWSON)

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Post Graduate 1. SHEMIST BLACK WIZARD (MRS S STOCK) 2. LORAINIAN CAMPBELL CLAN (MRS L PATERSON) 3. BLAZECROFT BLAIZE FOR GLORY (MRS V B SIMONS) Res EVAD STARGAZER JW (MRS D K WELLER) VHC BALIDORN BO DIDDLEY AT FOXSTONE (MR G & MRS K E MCLINTOCK)

Mid Limit 1. FAITMOIREVERJOCKER DESROMARINSDE MAYERLING AT AUBERSWELL (MESDAMES D & G FARLEY & JOHN) 2. PHILHOPE STAR STRUCK (MR S T & MRS S J PIERCE) 3. MOHNESEE MISSION IN BLUE JW SHCM (MISS T & L SOROCKYJ) Res CASTLEROSE SPIRITMASTER JW SHCM (MR J E L & MRS J B EDWARDS) VHC HILLHENRY JUST ONE LOOK FOR FERNHILL (MR J & MRS J M DIMMOCK)

Limit 1. FELTHORN JAZZ SINGER JW (MR R & MRS B THORNLEY) 2. OREAN THE BOOTLEGGER (MRS M & MR S SMITH) 3. DIPPERSMOOR STAR GAZER BY TOORALIE (MRS S J WALKER) Res BLUEQUARRY BLUE BOY (MISS J S JAWORSKA) VHC SEMITAR SPICE DREAM AT CLUAINULTAIGH JUN CH (MRS R JACKSON)

Open 1. CH EDGLONIAN SINGIN THE BLUES (MISS D PEARSON) 2. IR CH IRISH LEGEND (MR E & MR P CASTILLO & FORTUNE) 3. CH DEGALLO THE ULTIMATE SHCM (MISS L SCOTT) Res SHELTYSHAM ROSE WOOD (MR C & MRS M WYNN) VHC CH SHELLAMOYED WIZARD OF OZ JW (MRS D J FISHER)

Good Citizen Dog Scheme 1. CASTLEROSE SPIRITMASTER JW SHCM (MR J E L & MRS J B EDWARDS) 2. CH PEERIEGLEN PICKWICK JW SHCM (MRS J & MRS J DIMENT & WILLIAMS) 3. CH JOURDORILL THE ONLY ONE JW SHCM (MISS T & L SOROCKYJ) Res LACEWOOD SO SPECIAL JW (MR S & MISS L Z VIDAK) VHC SHETLO BRING ME LOVE TO KARLAINA (MRS K COLMAN-SMITH)

Bitches Veteran 1. JUXONDALE ANTHEMIS OF EILNWORB SHCM (MRS H MOIR) 2. AUST CH TOORALIE TICKLE MY FANCY (RE-IMP) (MRS S J WALKER) 3. PACARANE POLAR ICEMAGIC SHCM (MRS P M LAVERSUCH) Res CH MILESEND MOST APPEALING (MRS J MILES) VHC CASTLEROSE BLITHE SPIRIT JW SHCM (MR J E L & MRS J B EDWARDS)

Minor Puppy 1. ANASTASIA DREAMER AT LOCHKAREN (MR K F & MRS J MOTTRAM) 2. ICED GINGER (MR L C & MRS D L & MRS J A BARNETT & HARDMAN)

Puppy 1. MYTER TRADE SECRET (MRS M & MISS S THOMAS) 2. OREAN BOOTLEG BABE (MRS M & MR S SMITH) 3. LORAINIAN CELTIC STAR (MRS L PATERSON) Res CASTLEROSE BUSH BABY (MR J E L & MRS J B EDWARDS) VHC DEGALLO GIRL ON FIRE (MISS L SCOTT)

Junior 1. LINDFERN BEE ENCHANTED JW (MRS L S FRENCH) 2. WILLOWGARTH LOVE STORY (MR & MRS D STOTT) 3. LYTHWOOD SHARA (MR D RIGBY) Res HERDS HALLICIA AT ILIAD (MRS J & MISS A LYCETT) VHC FEARNACH CUSTOM MADE FOR LUKINWUF (MRS M FINNEGAN)

Yearling 1. SANSCOTT SWEET CITY WOMAN JW (MRS S MOORE ) 2. LIANBRAY LOCKED IN LOVE JW (MRS G BRAY) 3. MILESEND SET THE TREND (MRS J MILES) Res CARONLEA BLUE BELLE (MR D MCDONALD) VHC SUNDARK SIMPLY A STAR (MRS S A HIRST)

Graduate 1. KIEMONT KISSED BY SOMMER SUN AT BRAMBLECROFT JW (MRS M SMITH) 2. MOHNESEE TANGERINE DREAM AT WILLOWGARTH JW (MRS J A STOCKDEN) 3. MILESEND BLUEBELL (MRS J MILES) Res PEERIEGLEN POLLIWOG (MRS J DIMENT) VHC CHALMOOR I'M INDI JW (MR M & MRS J AMBLER)

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Post Graduate 1. DAISYWAY SKYROCK OF MILESEND (MR M & MRS A WEBB) 2. LOOK WHO'S AT DEGALLO (MISS L SCOTT) 3. RICHMAUS SNAPSHOT OF LOCHKAREN (MR K F & MRS J MOTTRAM) Res LUCKY LIAISON AT LIANBRAY SHCM (MRS M F DEVESON) VHC CONORVEAN NYST AT LOWENEK (MISSES E J & E J MITCHELL & FIDDOCK)

Mid Limit 1. LINDFERN ENCHANTED DANCER JW (MRS L S FRENCH) 2. SHELLAMOYED SIMPLY GOLD JW (MRS D J FISHER) 3. RAINWAY RETURNING TO SEAVALL JW (MR L C & MRS D L & MRS J A BARNETT & HARDMAN) Res SHEBAVILLE SAUCY SECRET AT ILIAD JW (MRS J & MISS A LYCETT) VHC LUCKY LIAISON AT LIANBRAY SHCM (MRS M F DEVESON)

Limit 1. LAVIKA SUMMER TIME JW (MRS S ROBINSON) 2. RUSCOMBE STRIKE A LIGHT FOR LIANBRAY (MRS G BRAY) 3. SHADOWAY PERCHANCE TO DREAM JW (MS M ARNOULD) Res WILLOWTARN TIME TO FROLIC (MISS R ALLAN) VHC HERDS HALLEUJAH JW (MISS M G GATHERAL)

Open 1. CH TACHNAMADRA EVISU (MRS M BYWATER) 2. CH MYTER EYE TO EYE JW (MRS M & MISS S THOMAS ) 3. CH MILESEND MILKSHAKE (MRS J MILES) Res SE UCH GOLD ZITA¦S WILD AMARULA (MRS C FLOBERG) VHC CH SHELLTHORN SOLAR STORM (MRS J MILES)

Good Citizen Dog Scheme 1. JUXONDALE ANTHEMIS OF EILNWORB SHCM (MRS H MOIR) 2. LINDFERN ENCHANTED SUNRISE (MRS L S FRENCH) 3. MYRIEHEWE TOUCH OF GOLD (MESDAMES D & G FARLEY & JOHN) Res SAMPHREY BITTA SWEET (MR S & MRS D GRUSZKA) VHC SMIDDYSHAW RUMBA CARUMBA (MRS S, MISS I & MISS J KHAWAJA & HARRISON)

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Official Crufts Photo

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Thank you to Aidan Bourke for permission to use these photos.

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Best Puppy - Crufts 2015

Shellamoyed The Statesman JW

Sire: Degallo The Vindicator At Rowancrest Dam: Shellamoyed Tri'N Stop Me

‘Oliver’

DOB: 15/3/2014

Breeder & Owner: Debby Fisher

Oliver as a puppy with his sire

Photo: Patrick Fortune

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Raising Litters – ‘Early Neurological Stimulation’

The following information comes from the article named above by Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia, and can be found in full on the ‘Breeding better dogs’ website. ...“The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilised six exercises which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference, the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

1. Tactical stimulation (between toes) 2. Head held erect 3. Head pointed down 4. Supine position 5. Thermal stimulation. Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds (Figure 1) . Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds (Figure 2). Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds (Figure 3). Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds (Figure 4). Thermal stimulation - use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds (Figure 5). These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results. These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected, the result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialisation or bonding…” References:

1. Battaglia, C.L., "Loneliness and Boredom" Doberman Quarterly, 1982.

2. Kellogg, W.N. & Kellogg, The Ape and the Child, New York: McGraw Hill.

3. Scott & Fuller, (1965) Dog Behavior -The Genetic Basics, University Chicago Press.

4. Scott, J.P., Ross, S., A.E. and King D.K. (1959) The Effects of Early Enforced Weaning Behavior of Puppies, J. Genetics Psychologist, p 5:

261-81.

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Figure # 1 Tactical stimulation Figure # 2 Head held erect

Figure # 3 Head pointed down

Figure # 4 Figure Supine position

Figure # 5 Thermal stimulation

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Oh Those Sheltie Ears! What do you think?

Most of us know that Sheltie ears can be tricky! Too heavy, pricked, unruly during puppyhood, and to brace or not to brace. They can also differ between countries, breeders and even colours! Donna Saltua (Shelbronze Shelties, Australia), and Cheryl Lockett (Cheryldene Sheltie, UK), share their views on Sheltie ears. What do you think? Email the Editor if you’d like to share your views to be included in the next issue.

Donna Saltau:

Ears, a very good subject. A Sheltie’s ear set should be higher than a Collie’s ear set and more on top of the skull, than to the side. The Standard says “fairly close together” but that does not mean so close that they touch or almost touch, as this can give a sharp look to the expression and make the skull look a bit narrow.

My rule of thumb is half the width of the ear as the gap between the ears when alert. Wide set ears usually mean a skull that is too broad and most times accompanies a heavier ear tip. The tip (or falling forward part of the ear) should be approximately one third of the ear length or less. Never 50/50 or barely tipping as these just spoil the alert expression.

It is a rare thing these days to have a natural, correct ear set and tip on a Sheltie, as many are now setting the ears by gluing or bracing of sort. So to get a pup with a perfect ear, that doesn’t move at all when teething, is precious and cherished.

I have no issues with bracing or weighting a pup’s ears if they flop when teething. No one wants to have that perfect Sheltie with awful ears because we didn’t care for the ears properly when teething. However, we must make sure that the ears don’t look fake. Some Sheltie ears can and do look a bit manufactured if kept in a set for too long. If I were ever judging two equal quality top class Shelties and one had correct natural ears and the other was obviously over trimmed and had an actual crease instead of a soft fold at tip, I would have to go with the Sheltie with the natural ears, every time.

Cheryl Lockett:

Reflecting on ears in the Australian sheltie: Such very, very high set ears, set so high almost touching in some cases and barely tipped! I think that comes from the horrible practise of tying up the ears of babies you seem to do such a lot there, not a very common practise here at all (UK), but your breeders there tell me you think the British dogs are ‘heavy eared’. I don't agree, they aren't, it's just that Australian breeders have gotten so used to seeing these bang up, barely tipped ears, ours look wrong. The Standard says tips falling forward and is taken to be a 1/3 of the ear, but that definitely is not the case there I found, in quite a few cases.

I know I hate to see all these pictures of babies posted with ears all tied up. I think it looks awful and I am sure it can't be nice for the dogs, especially when cutting teeth and they have earache anyway. Ears, like everything else, are used for their language; flicking them and moving according to mood and communication etc, they can't express themselves naturally if they are forced into a fixed position, so it's not something I'm in favour of myself, but then again, I've never had a dog with bad (not natural) ears in my line myself (as far as English styled tips are concerned), but have seen a few with spaniel set or very heavy ears. Perhaps if I had those, I may feel different, but I don't like very high ears, very large ears or barely tipped, myself.

Here (UK) I'm always complaining about 'the so called Merle ears', which are huge on some dogs and look very unsightly. I think it's often ‘forgiven' in a Merle, but definitely not so in a Sable here! BUT as I've always said, it shouldn't be forgiven in a Merle, after all the Standard doesn't say small or medium sized ears (‘but not on Merles’ or 'except Merles'), and doesn't differentiate for colour, so why should it be assumed that it's ok for huge ears on a Merle? The increasing use and prevalence of studs by Merle bred Tri-colours can be seen to be also having an impact on an increase in ear size in those lines, and in some cases I think in other colours now too, but others may not agree!

Also, I think that the amount of stripping out of the hair in and around the ears, to me, seems quite different too, with yours (Australia) being more akin to the USA style of more heavily stripped/cropped/shaved ears. Many UK dogs (not all), are shown with more 'Tufts' and wispy bits I think than yours, which although may not be so clean cut, does serve to soften the expression a lot too I think. It also means that there are less ‘flying’ ears in the ring here in the UK than I saw there, and a lot more dogs shown with pricked ears there I thought too. I wonder whether the higher, stripped out ears lead to more ear infections, or the other way around. Food for thought perhaps?

What a pleasure (and relief) it is

when some puppies escape the

dreaded “puppy ear phase”.

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NZ - The Central Shetland Sheepdog Club Championship 40th Anniversary shows 2014 - First

show Judge Cheryl Lockett (UK) (two shows held) Editor - All placegetters (1-4) were critiqued, but for the sake of brevity, CC and Res CC dog and bitch are presented here. NZ BredD, (4, 0)

1st Goodmans' Ch Eyespy Guns a Blazing, DCC/BOS/Best NZ Bred in Show. Dark shaded boy, litter brother to above (LD (2,1) Goodmans' Eyespy Line of Fire), but has better moulding of cheeks and ear set, good dark eye, good legs and feet, nice body and rib, adequate neck and although has limited front reach is neat moving, more masculine in outlook than his brother & the RBD, with better length of loin. In lovely coat, shown and handled well.

IntD (2, 0) 1st Greers' Ch Shelton So Cloudee, RCC/RBD/Best Intermediate in Show. Nicely balanced dog with good neck and reasonable shoulder angulation, good legs and feet but slightly over angulated behind, good planes to his head, nice dog, moved true, presented in good coat condition, and well-muscled lean body.

OB (5, 1) 1st Martin's Aust Sup Ch & NZ Gr Ch Beauideal Rock My World. And she did! In a class of her own, for me was a most easy BIS winner, elegant one piece head of correct planes with refined wedge and skull, elegant feminine, glamorous girl presented and handled to advantage, stood and showed superbly, full white collar, moved in a controlled, flowing, light, non-scurrying, easy gait and could have held the proverbial cup of water on

her back! A pleasure to see and handle, well-constructed, super bone, well-muscled body, just a joy! To be critical, could be sweeter in expression, but I thought her a superb specimen. BCC/BIS LB (4, 0) 1st Bishops' Eastonia Summer Hazz. Lovely shaped elegant bitch, who I would have preferred a size smaller, but no denying her lovely make, all in proportion, super planes to her head carried on a rarely seen Swan like neck - which only serves to emphasise her height, super loin and top line, excellent depth of well sprung rib

correctly boned legs and well-shaped and padded feet, very nicely shaped and placed eye, well set & used ears of correct tip and size, very pleasing expression lacking in the majority, super workmanlike animal, quality bitch

who will come into her own when she is more mature and in better coat- fluid mover, the sort of animal the breed needs. RCC/RBIS/Best Limit in Show Critique supplied and printed with permission by Cheryl Lockett, and full critique in Paw Print (NZ newsletter).

Toowoomba Royal - QLD (March 2015)

DCC BOB

Ch Shelsian The Traveller RU BIG

(right)

Res DCC

Jaemist Midsummer Nights Dream

BCC RU BOB

Ch Gavend Whispers Ov Gold

Res BCC

CH Mallaraba Monica to Serve

Best Neuter

Neuter Ch Electro Formal Attire

Photo thanks to Traci Addison

Judge: Mr J Rowton (Canada)

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Lythwood Shelties - The Record Makers Derek and Phyllis Rigby, of the renowned Lythwood Shelties (UK), have achieved numerous breed

records including:

Breeding 8 generations of a direct, unbroken home bred and owned father/son line of

champions.

The most number of shelties bred by a UK breeder with over 30 champions and counting

(currently 34).

5 champions from 3 litters by the same sire and dam.

Breeder of “Top Brood Bitch”.

The titling of Lythwood Scooby Doo (born - 2010) made it eight generations of champion father/son

male dogs for Lythwood Shelties, with the closest previous record being three, owned by the late

Olwen Gwynne-Jones. One can only marvel at such a feat.

Over a 40 year span, first in this line, and all being sables was Ch Lythwood Brandy Snap (born -

l971, titled in l973), then his son Ch Lythwood Saga (born - l976), his son Ch Lythwood Spruce

(born - l977), his son Ch Lythwood Scrabble (born - l984), his son Ch Lythwood Steptoe (born -

l988) his son Ch Lythwood Shalako (born - 2000) and his son Ch Lythwood Sacha (born - 2004),

leading us to Ch Lythwood Scooby Doo.

A further triumph included five champions resulting from three litters by the same sire and dam -

Ch Lythwood Steptoe and Ch Lythwood Stage Wispa at Tegwel. From a litter born in 2000, three

brothers became champions: Ch Lythwood Sixsmith, Ch Lythwood Shalako and Ch Lythwood Spin

Doctor. This was in addition to the crowning of Ch Lythwood Spice Girl from the sire and dam’s litter

born in 1998, and also Ch Lythwood She’s Forever Amber gaining her title, who was born from

another litter in 1999.

These five champions gave their dam Ch Lythwood Stage Whisper at Tegwel the honour of “Top

Brood Bitch”, a title previously held by Ch Riverhill Rare Gold.

Behind the Lythwood accomplishments was the successful combination of the Ch Lythwood Brady

Snap (Int Ch Jefsfire Allanvail Gold Spark ex Lythwood Bonnie) and Ch Lythwood Sky Master (Ch

Sandpiper of Sharval ex Lythwood Snaffery) lines. Brady Snap’s grand-sire was the great Ch Jefsfire

Freelancer, who sired 7 UK champions and champions in Denmark, Germany, France and NZ.

Brandy Snap boasted personality, showmanship and ideal size. Derek recalls that “One of my early

recollections of a thing that happened at a show was when Brandy Snap was a puppy, he got off his

bench and came to the ring standing in the middle and showing his head off”. Sky Master possessed

the ideal strength, type and construction.

Derek’s view, and likely further adding to their success, is his opinion that his favourite shelties are

not the dogs with the largest number of CCs, but that the breed most strongly benefits from a dog

or bitch that can pass on their positive attributes and produce quality, top winning stock from a

number of litters. Derek always keeps in mind the UK Standard and endeavours to uphold it when

breeding – “Stick to the British Standard and keep to the size and substance which the Standard

asks for.” “The Standard is the Bible for the breed!”

In 2000, the Australian Sheltie community was fortunate to have Derek judge their National in SA.

Here he gave BIS and DCC to Ch Dancerwood Love Inspring and RUBIS and BCC to Ch Shelmanna

Ice On Fyre. Best Puppy went to Hatztoo Hear Em Whisper and Best Baby to Dancerwood Moonlit

Stars – with both of these winners later gaining

their title.

They say records were made to be broken –

but these achievements by Derek and Phyllis

Rigby of Lythwood Shelties will no doubt

remain for many years to come, and for that

the Sheltie community stands and applauds.

Congratulations

Ch Lythwood Scooby Doo

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A star that shone brightly for Derek & Phyllis was Ch Lythwood Sky Master who sired 13

Champion offspring.

Sky Master’s Ch offspring:

Ch Lythwood Space Man (ex Ch Lythwood Sea Nymph)

Ch Manham The Joker (ex Ch Marnham Merry Maker)

Ch Marnham Melody at Arcot (ex Ch Marnham Merry Maker)

Ch Mohnesee Sweet Margarita (ex Ch Faybars Mai Tai With Mohnesee)

Ch Dalsetter The Sky The Limit (ex Mystic Dream of Dalsetter)

Ch Marklin Espree (ex Marklin Dorothea)

Ch Allanvail Scarletta of Tegwel (ex Allanvail Gold Pearl at Tegwel)

Ch Lythwood Cheryldene Sweet Cumin (ex Lythwood Sparkling Wine of Cheryldene)

Ch Tegwel Wild Ways of Sandwick (ex Marklin Wild Gypsy at Tegwel)

Ch Cheryldene Charlene (ex Lythwood Sparkling Wine of Cheryldene)

Ch Lythwood Sir Stanley (ex Lythwood Spun Gold)

Ch Lythwood Secret Dreams (ex Ch Lythwood Sindy Lou) & Int Ch Serena of Tegwel

Ch Lythwood Sky Master (Sire 12 Ch’s) Ch Lythwood Brandy Snap (Lythwood’s 1st Champion)

Successful sire and dam combination - 5 Champions. Top Brood Bitch.

A winning combination of two lines.

Ch Lythwood Steptoe Ch Lythwood Stage Wispa at Tegwel

3 Champion brothers from one litter.

Ch Lythwood Sixsmith JW Ch Lythwood Shalako Ch Lythwood Spin Doctor

By Megan Mathers with thanks to Derek and Phyllis Rigby. References: lythwood.org & www.ourdogs.co.uk/News/2010.

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Puppy Development at Lingard By Jean Cunningham Jeu

Last issue we had Guy Mauldin’s (Kismet shelties, US) article on puppy development (1978). Below is an excerpt from another article in this series - by Jean Cunningham Jeu (Lingard Shelties, US). Full article supplied by Marilyn Marlow (Cameo Shelties, US). … I know many excellent Shelties that have been lost to the breed because their owners saw their very respectable 9 month youngsters go into the "awful" stage which can last for a year especially in males when they go through their first shed, but which usually is pretty well over in 6 to 8 months, thank God! Even then I don't consider a dog really mature until 4 or 5 years of age and then I expect the really good ones to maintain their excellent quality until they die or go downhill from advanced old age at 12 to 15 years of age… Evaluation begins with the breedings. Evaluation of my litters begins with the breedings I make. I breed to maintain and hopefully improve on the quality of the parents and to retain the qualities of the progenitors which are outstanding in my line. I do a lot of experimental breeding, trying a bitch with a variety of studs and retaining a mental picture of the litters the dam and sire came from and their Iitter in tum. I would always prefer to retain for breeding an excellent representative of an overall outstanding litter, rather than the singularly outstanding puppy from an average litter. I know almost certainly such a puppy will be able to reproduce its quality when mature. During and after whelping a litter I look at the puppies naturally and they are given a lot of handling by my children. I make a special point of not allowing myself to "pick a litter" as it were. I do not pick favourite puppies or try to evaluate them in any way. (I have found that if one starts picking favourites at birth and so on it is much harder to evaluate the litter objectively at 7 weeks as one is very inclined not to be able to see changes and there is also a tendency for a person to want to back himself up as it were.) I wait until the puppies are 7 weeks old and at that age I actually judge them as though I were judging a class at a dog show. Every puppy is evaluated on its own merit not relative to its littermates. First I look for the expression which characterises most of my dogs. That definite look of class and quality. This is a rather illusory thing as my dogs as young puppies do not exhibit a relatively small, obliquely set eyes as they do when they mature. The "look" is definitely there though even in a 7 week old puppy, I note that the eyes are set into the sides of the skull as eyes set too close together and in front can give an otherwise good puppy a "not quite right look." I feel it is very important that the eyes be set obliquely and placed well into the skull so that there is no prominent look at all. The colour must definitely be dark as I have found a light eye stays that way and fortunately we haven't had that problem yet. I have found that a slightly round appearing eye may develop the more almond shaped rims within a few months however. The second definite quality a pup must have is proper head planes. My line often has quite a deep stop especially in the smaller pups in the litter. This I have learned to ignore but it is absolutely essential that the skull and muzzle be on two absolutely parallel planes. I have found if a pup is off - even slightly - he will have the same problem at maturity and it is more noticeable and this very serious fault is becoming more prevalent in the breed. In the old days when the dogs did not and were not expected to keep their ears up on their heads constantly in the ring and the judge could see the profile, we had far better profiles. I am not referring to all the “perfect" profiles we see in the pictures in the magazines, courtesy of an excellent trim job and the right camera angle. I mean the actual correct profile that a Sheltie can and should have himself naturally. Moderation in head type. Thirdly I look for moderation in head type. I don't look for a puppy that resembles a Collie puppy. The puppy should have a definite, even deep, stop and lean clean cheeks and back skull. You should not be able to see or feel ANY prominence over the cheekbones or sides of the skull. The muzzle may be relatively short but one does want the underjaw to be strong and for the puppy to have sufficient chin on his underjaw, to put it in very elementary terms. It is common for the 7 week old puppy to have just a small flat area right in the middle of the top of his skull if he has the proper lean clean feel to the sides of his skull. He will develop a flatter skull with maturity. I am sure at least one of the other writers is going to refer to the skull having "corners," which seems to be popular nowadays. What this simply means is proper flat skull on top and proper clean skull on the sides. The "corners" are supposed to be where these meet. I have never known head bones to be right angles. It is more a matter of trimming and angle. I do look for a naturally rounded "corner" on the pups despite my lack of enthusiasm for the term. Next the puppy must have a perfect or near perfect scissors bite, at this age if he is to mature with one. Next, I like a small, naturally high set ear. Many of my puppies' ears are small and prick as their ears open and come forward at 3, 4 and 5 weeks. In fact I used to have to warn people who bred to Ch. Lingard Sealect Bruce not to worry if their pups were prick eared at 5 or 6 weeks as one woman sold the whole litter at this age for only this reason thinking they would be impossibly prick eared. I don't worry, as the ears grow at 7 and 8 weeks. They grow and tip over naturally. I definitely do not like these big, heavy eared pups, whose ears are prominent and hang down below their eyes. I know they are currently popular but so is all the taping and bracing that goes with them.

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The pup should have a nice neck and a proud carriage. I am not going to go into structure as it requires books in itself but is amply covered by such books as "The Dog in Action" and everyone must learn what a sound dog is as opposed to a dog that stands square and moves along nicely and "appears" sound. A sound puppy is just a sound dog "in miniature" and I have found if the pup is sound or if he has minor or major structural faults at that age he will be sound or have the same faults at real maturity, Snapping or growling shouldn’t be tolerated. Proper temperament cannot be overemphasised. This is what the breed is all about and the reason most of us found and stay with shelties. I look for an outgoing puppy that is particularly responsive and trainable. I encourage my kids and anybody else’s to play with the pups. No cruelty is allowed, but a pup should be able to take a child’s playful antics and enjoy it and even tolerate baby pokes and prods and pulls. He should particularly be stable temperamentally and never snap even at a rough child or when nails cut etc…(some text omitted) I think the size of puppies is very relative. It is the single most elusive characteristic to be able to predict. I can predict about 90-95%, the rest is impossible I feel. I think the growth charts are more of a hindrance than a help, because most sheltie puppies grow so erratically. There is considerable in my line in birth weight and size largely depending on litter size. The size variation is still present at 7 weeks. In picking at 7 weeks I tend to avoid the largest and smallest puppies and pick the middle size in the litter - usually these puppies exemplify all the previously mentioned criteria also. I have found that puppies from various litters can vary greatly in size at 7 weeks and yet they tend to grow to normal size. The only age I found measurement to be helpful is at 12 weeks. At that age I like a puppy to be about 11 to 11 ½ inches. I have had many puppies measure from 10 to 12 inches at 12 weeks and mature in size. I used to measure everything every week and found such radical differences. I just threw the whole mess away and just go by size at 12 weeks, relative size to litter mates, and an eye for the correct size. I can guess sizes quite accurately without measuring, so just stick to that. Puppies can go two weeks and not grow a bit or grow an inch in the same period, and they usually do just this from week to week and month to month. It is just like raising kids and trying to keep them in clothes and shoes. A child grows in spurts and then stops and so do sheltie pups, at least most of them. One final point is that male puppies must have two easily palpable testicles at 7 weeks. I have found I can find them even at about 3 weeks. I know some breeders will wait on some puppies and often testicles will come done later but I want them there at 7 weeks and it quite unusual for us to have a monorchid or cryptorchid puppy now. This was not the case when I first started with shelties as we had the problem much more frequently. Don’t try to judge puppies at 3-6 months. To summarise, I’d like to emphasise that once I pick a puppy at 7 weeks and watch it develop until 9 and 12 weeks exhibiting the same characteristics I looked for at 7 weeks of age and if I like its size at 12 weeks I keep it and let it grow. The pup then gets raised in a large outdoor grass yard where they have plenty of room to exercise and get trained and played with. However I definitely do not judge it while it is going through 3, 4, 5 or even 6 month stages. Almost all puppies, and definitely mine are included, go through terrible gangly awkward stages, some of them become quite unsound in front and in rear as they grow in different places at different times. It is not at all unusual for their rears to be higher than their fronts or their underjaws to mature more slowly than their upper jaws which throws off their bite temporarily. The only thing I watch for is that the baby teeth come out and allow the adult teeth room to come in otherwise I remove the baby teeth myself. The puppies are given lots of love and just allowed to grow up. With a bit of luck their ears develop well naturally, otherwise the tips are glued with Duo Surgical Adhesive to the inside bases. This only takes a few minutes and stays for a couple of weeks and the other puppies cannot mess it up like all the taping and bracing. I would rather spend the time watching and playing with the pups rather than fooling with ears. I definitely feel that it is the wisest to grow them out until they reach 8 or 9 months before re-evaluating them as so many excellent puppies are given up on at 4, 5, 6 and 7 months when they are just going through growth stages. So many puppy buyers go over the pup every night with the standard in hand just looking for things to worry themselves and the pup about. If you really look at them at 7 weeks you’ll see all you need to know to have a good 9 month old pup. The only exception to this is the rare pup that keeps on growing rapidly past 4 or 5 months and goes over and a few that I’ve had that stopped growing completely at the same age leaving them too small to be competitive.

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Picking a Puppy by Harry Waring (from A Breeder’s Day)

...We pick our puppies over a period of time. The qualities we see in a puppy from birth to 6 weeks of age, still remain,

but size - both big and small - is something that is the headache of every Sheltie breeder. Every puppy we have bred has

been weighed (usually daily) from birth until they leave for their new homes, and these records are fascinating reading in

themselves, becoming more valuable with every generation.

Be wary of the biggest pup in the litter - he may be the handsomest but also too big. Heavy bone, big feet, big head, long

back, extra long tail spell big size. Likewise, be wary of the smallest puppy. At birth we look for ‘egg heads’ and squarish

muzzles (the latter is substance for future growth), and check that tail bone tip reaches hocks. We hold the puppy round

the body letting the legs dangle, and this often gives a clue about straightness of hock or otherwise.

When the eyes are open we get a better picture of resemblance to either parent, but is it after 4 weeks old that one sees

rapid changes from day to day - ears go higher on heads, coats grow (or don’t) and one begins to watch movement. After

5 weeks, some pups start really pulling away in weight from their mates and others start lagging, where previously they

may have all been around the same weight. We like a puppy that enjoys being handled and has a cheeky approach. We

spend hours watching them move - a narrow passage-way is ideal for ‘hock watching’. We like heads at this stage to have

a slight bump in the centre of the forehead - this bump flattens with maturity.

At 6 weeks old we look for an average weight puppy, compact and balanced looking with a good rib span, a strong but

not massive head, well tipped highset ears, flat skull with obliquely set almond eyes and filled foreface, well laid shoulder

and free mover. Underjaw visible when looking at pup head on. Colour changes constantly as the puppy matures - a

mousy grey often turns a lovely gold. Colour around the cheeks and legs gives the best forecast. A dark, almost black

stripe down back often (but not always) is the forerunner of rich red. The Riverhill sable strain for instance are usually

almost black faced at birth, this disappearing at several weeks old.

Sheltie pups are notoriously difficult to pick. Having been foiled so often we feel 6 months - not 6 weeks is our long suit.

So your dog isn’t interested in playing with toys? Let’s change that!

Choose a throw-able toy - one that you can toss, but won’t roll too much, like a tug rope, ball in a sock or a stuffed animal.

Attach this toy to a light line, string or lead that is about 3 meters long.

Put the toy in a drawer in the living room or kitchen (somewhere easily accessible).

Before each meal start to act a bit loony. While saying fun things to your dog ‘what’s this?’, ‘where’s the toy?’, walk/

dance/skip over to the drawer. Slowly open drawer, pause and then pull it out like you’ve found gold and run with it into

the next room. Act like you’re having a great time with the toy.

Then toss the toy out like a lure on a fishing pole. Drag it around, but don’t let the dog grab it in it’s mouth. The whole

process should take about 1-2 mins. End the game by running back to the drawer with toy in tow. Snatch it up and put in

back into the drawer. Now just ‘act natural’ - like you haven’t just been really loony.

Re-enact this weird performance 2-3 times a day. After the second day, let the dog get his mouth on the toy, but only for a

few seconds. Pull on the line and try to steal it from him. Once you get it away (take it away in an informal, fun way), play

with it a little more by yourself before quickly putting it away.

Gradually progress, letting him play with you and the toy (tug of war style) a little more each time until you have a dog

who loves to see the toy come out.

Don’t allow him to play with this toy at any other time except during this routine, and when he is ready, at agility class.

Ideally you should remove any other toys lying around the house at this time.

Before you know it you will have a dog who is just as loony about the toy as you apparently are!

Source: Croydon & Dist. Obedience Dog Club

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Isobel Khawaja

Talented Handler in the Conformation and Junior Handler Ring

Isobel Khawaja started going to dog shows at just 6 years of age, and has just turned 8 years old on the 2nd of January. Isobel not only competes in the Conformation ring with her best friend, tri-colour Sheltie bitch “Dusty” (Smiddyshaw Rumba Carumba), she also excels in the Junior Handler ring and is learning Agility, Obedience, Fly-ball and Heelwork to Music. She has qualified for Crufts with “Dusty” in the breed class, and the Young Kennel Club Stakes class. Talent and love for dog showing runs in the family with Isobel’s Grandmother, Ann Harrison, breeding and showing with great success (Anfranjo Knls), and Isobel’s aunt, Jodie Harrison, herself a top handler. Isobel’s younger brother Guy, is also keen on Showing and Agility.

Everyone is so proud of Isobel and her wonderful achievements to date. It is very exciting to see someone so young, do so well. We admire Isobel for her dedication and the hard work she is putting in to not only perfect her ring craft, but also to learn about other dog sports and activities. We are also delighted to see such a beautiful bond between Isobel and her best friend “Dusty”. We wish Isobel continued success in the future – Well done Isobel!

To learn a little bit more about Isobel, she was asked the following questions. Thank you Isobel, and also Ann for your help. Isobel and “Dusty”

Q - What hobbies or sports do you like to do?

My hobbies are Majorettes (Baton Twirling), Ballet, Swimming and Yoga.

Q - Could you tell us a little bit about the Sheltie you show?

Dusty is 7 years old and a Tri-Colour. She is fun to live with and always tries her best to help me win at the

shows. She is such a good girl.

Q - How old were you when you first started showing Shelties?

When I started I was 6 years old at my first show and I was entered in the Junior Handling. I was supposed to

be handling my Nan's Bearded Collie but he was much too strong for me so we decided to look around for a

smaller dog to borrow for the class. We asked a lady who had Shelties and she kindly let me borrow one of

hers, this was Dusty. As I continued to borrow other dogs and Dusty as the months went by, Dusty's owner

knew she was my favourite as I chose to use Dusty to compete with for the very important Junior Handling

Association Semi-Final for Junior Handler of the Year in September 2013. Dusty's owner could see the growing

bond between us and kindly decided to let me keep Dusty, and we have been together ever since.

Q - Have you shown any other breeds, and if so, which ones?

Yes I have shown a Standard Poodle, Miniature Poodles, a Manchester Terrier and a Chihuahua.

Q - Which breed is your favourite to show and why?

My Sheltie is my favourite breed because she is such a good dog for me, always willing to please.

Q - Do you prefer handling in the junior handler ring or conformation ring?

I like handling in the conformation ring and the junior handling ring equally really. I like them both the same.

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Q - What training do you do to

help with your handling?

I go to Ringcraft classes at Barking

Dog Club and also attend any

Junior Handling training days

advertised and they are held in

various parts of the country. They

are a great help. Also, I have

attended Young Kennel Club

Camp and have learnt a lot

through the handling training

classes held there.

Q - Do you have any training or

handling tips?

I would say be kind and gentle to

your dog, never be rough. Talk to

your dog in the ring and never go

in between the Judge and your

dog.

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Isobel watching a show with her friend

Isobel’s aunt Jodie Harrison

Ann Harrison

A fun day out handling

In costume at the ESSC Centenary Show

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Q - What achievement / win have you been most proud of and why?

Winning my Junior Handling class (6-11 years) and then going on to win Best Overall Handler at Chelmsford Open

Show in May 2014 was my first very proud moment as I also won my first trophy that day. My next extra special

proud moment was when Dusty won her breed class at East of England Championship Show in July 2014. This

qualified Dusty for Crufts 2015, and I was so happy. Everybody clapped and I could not stop smiling. I think I will

always remember my first time winning the breed class and qualifying for Crufts with my first dog.

Q - What goals do you want to achieve in the future?

I want to continue to improve my handling skills and to one day win at Crufts.

Q - Are there any handlers who you admire and inspire you?

I admire Debbie Pearson because she has achieved so much with her Sheltie and has often given me advice at

shows on how to get the best from my Sheltie. She has been very helpful and always has time to talk to me.

Q - Other than handling, what other dog activities / sports do you like to do? I loved going to Young Kennel Club Camp in the summer for a week and later in the autumn to YKC Activity (long)

weekend at Newark. Here I had training with Dusty in Handling, Agility, Obedience, Fly–ball and Heelwork to

Music. We both thoroughly enjoyed them all. Dusty is very versatile and enjoys having a go at everything but I

think apart from Handling, we both liked Agility best of all. If I had more time I would like to join an Agility Club

and do it more often!

Q - What is it like showing at Crufts?

This year will be my first time at Crufts and Dusty has qualified in the breed classes and the YKC Pastoral Stakes

class too. I am very excited about going to Crufts, and so is my family. My school is very proud of me too and the

Headmistress has a photograph of me and Dusty up on her wall. My Granddad and Auntie will try to watch but will

be busy showing their Bearded Collies, but my Nan and Mum and Dad will be at the Sheltie ring to cheer us on. We

are in the very first class, Veteran Bitch, the last class, Good Citizen Bitch and then onto the YKC Pastoral Stakes in

the YKC ring, so everybody please keep their fingers crossed for me that I do a good job!

Q - Do you think in the future you will still be handling / breeding your own Shelties / or even be a judge?

I hope I will continue to show Shelties in the future and I would really like to go on to Judging when I am older.

Q - I love shelties because…

I love Shelties because they are kind with a gentle character, a lovely family dog and good with other animals. The coat is quite easy to look after so grooming is not a problem. My Sheltie has lovely eyes and she is happy to do anything that I ask her to do; she is my best friend. I like a lot of different breeds but having my own Sheltie is the best thing that has ever happened to me!

Editors note - Isobel and Dusty have now competed at Crufts 2015 and they achieved 5th place from an entry of 19 in the class Good Citizen Dog Scheme - Bitch. Congratulations - well done!