the west australian fresh thursday ......the tuscan sun cookbook frances and edward mayes,...

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Melbourne by Menu Rita Erlich, Slattery, soft cover, $34.95 Perth people have a deep and abiding love for Melbourne and in this book, prodigious food writer Rita Erlich takes us on a journey through Melbourne’s trail-blazing food scene. Tracking back to the 80s and moving forward, the book charts a collection of restaurants, chefs, menus and recipes that changed the face of Australia’s food scene. Think Stephanie’s (Stephanie Alexander), Mietta’s (Jacques Reymond), Flower Drum (Gilbert Lau), Fleurie (Iain Hewitson), Florentino (Guy Grossi) and Jean Jacques By The Sea. It’s a fascinating insight into the evolution of what made Melbourne’s food scene what it is today. The Tuscan Sun Cookbook Frances and Edward Mayes, HarperCollins, soft cover, $35 From the woman who brought us one of the original sea-change novels, Under the Tuscan Sun, comes her first cookbook. It’s two decades later and Frances and her poet husband, Edward, have penned this traditional cookbook as a culinary dedication to their adopted home in Tuscany. It’s teeming with Tuscan dishes from the laden tables of their friends and neighbours, as well as feasts from their own kitchen, in a region where food is a national obsession. The chapters include a riot of antipasti dishes, primi platters of pasta and tureens of soup, fresh garden-picked vegetable sides and desserts of tarts and sorbets. After Toast Kate Gibbs, Allen & Unwin, soft cover, $24.99 As with many home cooks, author Kate Gibbs learnt much in the way of cooking from her grandmother’s kitchen — with the only difference being that Kate’s granny is Margaret Fulton. This book has been written for those Gen Y’ers who leave home knowing how to surf, drive, text and upload to YouTube but not cook. Simple, non-scary recipes are the name of the game, with dude food figuring large. Tacos. Croquettes. Pop-tarts. Mac and cheese. Baked beans. Eton mess. And lots of things to do with eggs. Write your name, address and phone number on the back of an envelope and send to Fresh After Toast Competition, GPO Box 2920, Perth WA 6800. Entries close on Thursday, September 13 at 5pm, with the winner drawn the same day and notified by mail. Employees of The West Australian and their immediate family ineligible to enter. Entrants’ details will be used for marketing. See WAN privacy policy at thewest.com.au/privacypolicy. Image: Rebecca Hunter 2 FIRST BITE THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 Books for cooks The owners of Riverview on Mount Street in Perth are going into the food business. They will be re-opening the restaurant which has been vacant since Sebastian Bouchard shut down last year. Where previously the space has been leased out to restaurant operators — Bouchard’s stylish Bouchard bistro was the best of the bunch — this time, the apartment building owners will be taking control. The restaurant — to be called MTST (as in Mount Street, geddit?) — will specialise in “modern Asian” and is due to open on September 17. It will initially offer only breakfast and lunch with Broadbrush’s spies saying that the owners are taking a “wait and see approach” to dinner “at this stage”. Those of us who fell in love with Leederville’s Cafe 130, back in the days when great beans, good roasts and top baristas were rare, should give its replacement, Foam Coffee Bar, a crack. The hippy-dippy, run-down looks that made Cafe 130 a favourite with the Birkenstocks set have been replaced with some sharp Scando looks and a muted interior scheme. Broadbrush will be test-driving the coffee soon. We’ll let you know. If you like My Kitchen Rules hunk Pete Evans and you like a healthy lifestyle, the stars have aligned for you. Pete has written a new cookbook filled with heart-healthy recipes in support of the Heart Foundation’s Go Red for Women campaign. Unusually, for a writer with such prominence, the book is not in full release and is for sale online at the heartfoundationshop.com and selected shopping centres. Eight dollars from every purchase of “Cooking with Heart” will be donated to the Heart Foundation to help raise awareness of heart disease as the number one killer of Australian women. Broome’s Shinju Matsuri festival is in full swing. Last weekend’s long table lunch was a hit, especially with Tourism Minister Kim Hames and his wife Stephanie. Dr Hames, a very accomplished home cook, asked Broadbrush “what score it deserved?” (We demurred, saying the entire lunch was a 20/20). As far as preferences go, the Aarli Bar’s pork hock with chilli caramel floated the ministerial boat, getting top marks from the good doctor. Shinju continues throughout this weekend with events, shows, exhibitions and lots of good food. Broadbrush Have we reached the sweet spot in WA’s bar scene? Judging by the constant trickle of high quality, small bars coming on to the market, perhaps we have. For the first few years of the small bar laws, the early adopters were cautious about how the small bar segment would play out, which meant bars were quirky and opened on a shoestring budget or were cautious and a little dull. Now, with some successes, the newer bars are braver in concept and funded with great confidence. Case in point: the Mechanics’ Institute bar in Northbridge. It’s a project from the owners of North Freo small bar Mrs Brown. And like its North Freo cousin, the Mechanics’ Institute is also co-tenanted with a Flipside Burgers shop. Hamish Fleming and Siobhan Blumann, the brains behind Flipside and both bars, are offering a similar cocktails meets burgers concept at the Mechanics’ Institute. We love Mechanics’ alleyway aesthetic and its summer-ready outdoor terrace with views of the city and Northbridge. With banged-up old typewriters on the bar, we suspect the owners are keen to make this a journo’s bar. We know one journo who agrees. The Mechanics’ Institute. Rob Broadfield Follow Rob Broadfield on twitter at @robbroadfield FRESH Thursday, September 6, 2012 INDEX A taste for this week Broadbrush and Books for cooks ................................. 2 Potatoes .................................. 3 Spud recipes and community column ............................... 4-5 Food News and Baking Paper ...................................... 6 Wine, beer and review .......... 7 Grilled: Emmanuel Mollois... 8 FEATURES EDITOR Helen Winterton, 9482 3574 [email protected] EDITOR Hermione Stott 9482 3451 [email protected] STAFF WRITER Olga de Moeller WINE Ray Jordan BEER Vic Crossland DESIGN Rochelle Smith, Frances Ah Chee and Melinda Penn ADVERTISING Jill Sinclair 9482 3483 COVER Baked potatoes PHOTO Michael Wilson The West Australian Good Food Guide 2013 WIN One lucky reader can get their own copy of After Toast The West Australian Good Food Guide, WA’s independent guide to our State’s top restaurants, cafes and bars, is coming again. The 2013 edition has more reviews, including the best spots to eat in Bali, and a greater emphasis on value-for-money eating and drinking in our bars and cafes. Edited by The West’s Rob Broadfield, it is an easy-to-read, comprehensive guide packed full of information for the foodie in us all. Pre-order your copy today at westgoodfoodguide.com.au for only $19.95 (plus postage and handling). THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]

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Page 1: THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH THURSDAY ......The Tuscan Sun Cookbook Frances and Edward Mayes, HarperCollins, soft cover, $35 From the woman who brought us one of the original sea-change

Melbourne by MenuRita Erlich, Slattery, soft cover, $34.95Perth people have a deep and abiding lovefor Melbourne and in this book, prodigiousfood writer Rita Erlich takes us on a journeythrough Melbourne’s trail-blazing foodscene. Tracking back to the 80s andmoving forward, the book charts acollection of restaurants, chefs, menus andrecipes that changed the face of Australia’sfood scene. Think Stephanie’s (StephanieAlexander), Mietta’s (Jacques Reymond),Flower Drum (Gilbert Lau), Fleurie (IainHewitson), Florentino (Guy Grossi) andJean Jacques By The Sea. It’s a fascinatinginsight into the evolution of what madeMelbourne’s food scene what it is today.The Tuscan Sun CookbookFrances and Edward Mayes, HarperCollins,soft cover, $35From the woman who brought us one ofthe original sea-change novels, Under theTuscan Sun, comes her first cookbook. It’stwo decades later and Frances and herpoet husband, Edward, have penned thistraditional cookbook as a culinarydedication to their adopted home inTuscany. It’s teeming with Tuscan dishesfrom the laden tables of their friends andneighbours, as well as feasts from theirown kitchen, in a region where food isa national obsession. The chaptersinclude a riot of antipasti dishes, primiplatters of pasta and tureens of soup,fresh garden-picked vegetable sidesand desserts of tarts and sorbets. After ToastKate Gibbs, Allen & Unwin, soft cover,$24.99As with many home cooks, author KateGibbs learnt much in the way of cookingfrom her grandmother’s kitchen — with theonly difference being that Kate’s granny isMargaret Fulton. This book has beenwritten for those Gen Y’ers who leave homeknowing how to surf, drive, text and uploadto YouTube but not cook. Simple, non-scaryrecipes are the name of the game, withdude food figuring large. Tacos.Croquettes. Pop-tarts. Mac and cheese.Baked beans. Eton mess. And lots of thingsto do with eggs.

Write your name, address andphone number on the back of anenvelope and send to FreshAfter Toast Competition, GPOBox 2920, Perth WA 6800.Entries close on Thursday,September 13 at 5pm, with thewinner drawn the same day andnotified by mail. Employees ofThe West Australian and theirimmediate family ineligible toenter. Entrants’ details will beused for marketing. See WANprivacy policy atthewest.com.au/privacypolicy.

Imag

e: R

ebec

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r

2 FIRST BITE

THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012

Books for cooks

The owners of Riverview onMount Street in Perth are goinginto the food business.

They will be re-opening therestaurant which has been vacantsince Sebastian Bouchard shutdown last year.

Where previously the space hasbeen leased out to restaurantoperators — Bouchard’s stylishBouchard bistro was the best ofthe bunch — this time, theapartment building owners will betaking control.

The restaurant — to be calledMTST (as in Mount Street, geddit?)— will specialise in “modern Asian”and is due to open on September17. It will initially offer onlybreakfast and lunch withBroadbrush’s spies saying that the

owners are taking a “wait and seeapproach” to dinner “at this stage”.

Those of us who fell in love withLeederville’s Cafe 130, back in thedays when great beans, goodroasts and top baristas were rare,should give its replacement, FoamCoffee Bar, a crack.

The hippy-dippy, run-down looksthat made Cafe 130 a favouritewith the Birkenstocks set havebeen replaced with some sharpScando looks and a muted interiorscheme.

Broadbrush will be test-drivingthe coffee soon. We’ll let you know.

If you like My Kitchen Rules hunkPete Evans and you like a healthylifestyle, the stars have aligned foryou. Pete has written a newcookbook filled with heart-healthyrecipes in support of the HeartFoundation’s Go Red for Womencampaign.

Unusually, for a writer with suchprominence, the book is not in fullrelease and is for sale online at theheartfoundationshop.com andselected shopping centres.

Eight dollars from everypurchase of “Cooking with Heart”will be donated to the HeartFoundation to help raiseawareness of heart disease as thenumber one killer of Australianwomen.

Broome’s Shinju Matsuri festival isin full swing. Last weekend’s longtable lunch was a hit, especiallywith Tourism Minister Kim Hamesand his wife Stephanie. Dr Hames,a very accomplished home cook,asked Broadbrush “what score it

deserved?” (We demurred, sayingthe entire lunch was a 20/20). Asfar as preferences go, the AarliBar’s pork hock with chilli caramelfloated the ministerial boat,getting top marks from the gooddoctor.

Shinju continues throughout thisweekend with events, shows,exhibitions and lots of good food.

Broadbrush

Have we reached the sweet spot in WA’s bar scene?Judging by the constant trickle of high quality, smallbars coming on to the market, perhaps we have. Forthe first few years of the small bar laws, the earlyadopters were cautious about how the small barsegment would play out, which meant bars werequirky and opened on a shoestring budget or werecautious and a little dull. Now, with some successes,the newer bars are braver in concept and funded withgreat confidence. Case in point: the Mechanics’Institute bar in Northbridge. It’s a project from theowners of North Freo small bar Mrs Brown. And like itsNorth Freo cousin, the Mechanics’ Institute is alsoco-tenanted with a Flipside Burgers shop.Hamish Fleming and Siobhan Blumann, the brainsbehind Flipside and both bars, are offering a similarcocktails meets burgers concept at the Mechanics’Institute. We love Mechanics’ alleyway aesthetic andits summer-ready outdoor terrace with views of thecity and Northbridge. With banged-up old typewriterson the bar, we suspect the owners are keen to makethis a journo’s bar. We know one journo who agrees.

The Mechanics’ Institute.

Rob Broadfield

Follow RobBroadfield ontwitter at@robbroadfield

FRESHThursday, September 6, 2012

INDEXA taste for this weekBroadbrush and Books for cooks ................................. 2Potatoes .................................. 3Spud recipes and communitycolumn ............................... 4-5Food News and BakingPaper ...................................... 6Wine, beer and review ..........7Grilled: Emmanuel Mollois... 8

FEATURES EDITORHelen Winterton, 9482 [email protected] Stott 9482 [email protected] WRITER Olga de Moeller WINE Ray Jordan BEER Vic Crossland DESIGN Rochelle Smith, Frances AhChee and Melinda PennADVERTISING Jill Sinclair9482 3483

COVERBakedpotatoesPHOTOMichaelWilson

The West AustralianGood Food Guide 2013

WINOne lucky

reader can gettheir own copyof After Toast

The West Australian Good Food Guide, WA’sindependent guide to our State’s top restaurants,cafes and bars, is coming again. The 2013 editionhas more reviews, including the best spots to eatin Bali, and a greateremphasis on value-for-moneyeating and drinking in ourbars and cafes. Edited by TheWest’s Rob Broadfield, it is aneasy-to-read, comprehensiveguide packed full ofinformation for the foodie inus all. Pre-order your copy today atwestgoodfoodguide.com.aufor only $19.95 (plus postageand handling).

THIS COPYRIG

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.AU