THE WINSTON CHURCHILL MEMORIAL TRUST OF AUSTRALIA

REPORT BY ADAM JAMES, 2016 CHURCHILL FELLOW

A STUDY OF BOTH AGE OLD AND KEY NEW TECHNIQUES IN VEGETABLE AND LEGUME FERMENTATION – DENMARK, ITALY,

CHINA, KOREA, JAPAN. I understand that the Churchill Trust may publish this report, either in hard copy or on the internet or both, and consent to such publication.

I indemnify the Churchill Trust against any loss, costs or damages it may suffer arising out of any claim or proceedings made against the Trust in respect of or arising out of the publication of any Report submitted to the Trust and which the Trust places on a website for access over the internet.

I also warrant that my Final Report is original and does not infringe the copyright of any person, or contain anything which is, or the incorporation of which into the Final Report is, actionable for defamation, a breach of any privacy law or obligation, breach of confidence, contempt of court, passing-off or contravention of any other private right or of any law.

Signed: Adam James

17/11/2017

Contents

o Introduction to fermentation 5 - 6

o Executive Summary 7 - 8

o Denmark 9 - 11

o Italy 11 - 20

o China 20 - 25

o Korea 25 - 31

o Japan 32 - 44

o Dissemination of information 45 - 47

‘Fermentation is the transformation of food by various bacteria, fungi, and the enzymes they produce. People harness this transformative power in order to produce alcohol, to preserve food, and to make it more digestible, less toxic and/or more delicious. By some estimates, as much as one third of all food eaten by human beings worldwide is fermented, and fermented food production, taken as a whole, constitutes one of the worlds’ largest industries. Fermentation has played an instrumental role in human cultural evolution. It is important to recognize, however, that fermentation is a natural phenomenon much broader than human culinary practices; cells in our bodies are capable if fermentation. In other words, humans did not invent or create fermentation; it would be more accurate to state that fermentation created us’.

‘Most food and beverage fermentation processes are ancient rituals that humans have been performing since the dawn of history, yet we have largely relegated them to factory production. Fermentation has mostly disappeared from out households and communities. Techniques evolved by disparate human cultures over millennia, through observation of natural phenomena and manipulating conditions with trial and error, have become obscure and are in danger of being lost.’

Sandor Katz – The Art of Fermentation – 2013

Introduction to fermentation

The practice of fermentation can be traced to the very beginnings of civilisation where early humans discovered an alchemy that allowed them to store food over the winter. Almost every culture on earth practices fermentation in some way, whether it’s making beer or wine – the first deliberately fermented products – or bread, cheese, yoghurt, chocolate, vinegar, soy sauce, tempeh, kimchi, miso and so forth. While the first fermentations were likely accidental – countries like China, India, Egypt, Iraq, Mexico and Sudan have evidence of fermented foods dating back at least 4000 years.

By fermenting vegetables, you are unlocking the stored nutrients trapped in indigestible starches, increasing their bioavailability. The process of lacto-fermentation produces a rich content of probiotics and food acids that stimulate the gut immune system that in turn will have an adaptogenic impact on many physiological processes throughout the body. Lactobacilli are a species of bacteria, with scientists now having named 150 different strains. The process of fermentation in an anaerobic environment allows the lactobacilli to breakdown the sugar and starches in food into different forms of lactic acid bacteria becoming specific probiotic interactions within the body.

The lactic acid creates a low ph. environment that results in a very safe healthy way to preserve food. The lactic acid directly competes with forms of unhealthy bacteria such as E coli that not only spoil food but can make us very sick. For

lactic acid bacteria to become a host within our gastro- intestinal tract and other mucosal cells they need fibre as a prebiotic so they can continue to thrive. Vegetable fermentation is the perfect way to provide this fibre.

Vegetables are extremely rich in polyphenols and phytonutrients however many are bound in the cellulose structure of the vegetables. Fermentation unbinds these structures and an array of nutrients with anti-carcinogenic, anti-inflammatory and immune properties are unleashed to be absorbed and assimilated into our cells.

In the simplest terms – fermented foods are delicious and good for us.

Executive Summary

Adam Christopher JAMES Rough Rice 158 Melville Street, Hobart, TAS, 7000 0418 109 972 ajames3479@gmail.com @roughrice (Instagram)

Keywords – food, fermentation, preservation, fermented foods My fascination with fermentation began five years ago whilst travelling through Japan. The exact moment was in a sake bar in Kyoto when I was served a dollop of a red paste on a square of tofu. The paste was kansuri a type of fermented chilli and it changed my life. Since then I have researched, experimented and travelled extensively to increase my knowledge. My home kitchen has been converted into a ‘fermentation lab’ filled with locally made ceramic crocks and I have hosted various fermentation workshops/popup events around Tasmania under the name rough rice.

My Churchill Fellowship was an incredible journey into the world of fermented foods around the world and I cannot thank the Churchill Fellowship Memorial Trust enough for the opportunity to research and explore my passion. I would also like to acknowledge my referees, Rodney Dunn of The Agrarian Kitchen and Sue Dyson and Roger McShane of Food Tourist for believing in me and supporting my project. This fellowship took months and months of planning and special thanks to all of the wonderful 60+ individuals around the

globe, most of whom I’d never met before, who made it all come together.

My Churchill Fellowship was a study of ancient (and new) fermentation techniques around the world. I was not only interested in the ‘how’ but also the ‘why’ and ‘who’.

My fellowship took me to Denmark, Italy, China, Korea and Japan. I gained invaluable insights into not only the actual fermented foods, but the cultural role that these foods play in their respective countries. There is very little information about some of these ferments, particularly in the Asian countries I travelled, so it was indeed a privilege to be able to get a real insight and document some of these foods.

Following is a breakdown of my trip in chronological order; highlighting some of the practices, history and cultural significance of fermentation.

Denmark

Fermentation currently plays a huge role in many top restaurants around the world – and Copenhagen is a perfect example. Utilising old and developing new techniques is now seen as an integral building block in the flavour making process. Several restaurants have even set up laboratories with full time staff dedicated to research and creating new flavours. One such restaurant is Amass – who also pride themselves on being zero waste. Here everything that would normally be destined for the rubbish bin gets fermented. Left over egg whites get turned into a garum, vegetable scraps are fermented and turned into crisps, coffee grounds are turned into miso. I had a fascinating day touring the fermentation lab with head fermenter Kim Wejendorp, getting an insight into their fermentation practices and ethos. That night I ate in the restaurant and every single dish had one or more fermented components.

Amass is also particularly famed for their fermented potato bread. Kim told me the story how one day, a few years back, the bread tasted particularly delicious – and the chefs couldn’t understand why – as the methodology was very regimented without room for movement or variables. It turns out the apprentice didn’t wear gloves – and it was his natural bacteria that took the bread to the next level. The following week everyone in the kitchen took turns making the bread with very mixed results. The only variable was who made it. At the end of the experiment, gloves were discarded forever and the kitchen got divided into ‘good potato hands’ and ‘not good potato hands’ – leaving those without with other duties in the kitchen. The same approach to ‘hands on’ fermentation reoccurred throughout my trip - in certain places in both China and Korea I wasn’t even allowed into some fermentation houses because of my potentially harmful bacteria. In Kyoto making pickles; time and time again I was told that it is your ‘hands’ which make your pickle better than your neighbours.

Italy

Around Emilia Romagna you are hard pressed to go a meal, let alone a day without eating one or more of the holy trinity of ferments; balsamic vinegar, parmigiano reggiano and salumi. These products were what brought me to Italy and each has been made here since the middle ages. All are now products covered by DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta). DOP essentially means that only products that meet the strict guidelines can be sold as ‘authentic’. By law,

only DOP products can carry the word ‘tradizionale’ on their labels because they adhere to the rigid local traditions and standards.

My time in the region started in the tiny village of Zibello which lies on the river Po – whose mist, it is said, provides the perfect conditions for the maturation of its culatello – the ‘king’ of Italian salumi. Staying at the magnificent Antica Corte Pallavicina, where it has been made for over 500 years, I was able to gain incredible access to the process and history of this amazing product. Culatello has rules. It can only be made in Zibello (there are only a total of 14 producers) and the process is unchanged since its inception in the 15th

Century. Made from only ‘Nera di Parma’ pigs which free range on the property, it is made from the back leg of a female or castrated male which is deboned then marinated in salt, garlic, pepper and sparkling red wine for a week. It is

then hung for one year above ground in a barn like shed (with no temperature control).

It is then transferred to an underground cellar for another 1 – 3 years (with no windows or temperature control) where the humidity creates the perfect conditions for further maturation. When deemed ready it is inspected by DOP officials before it can be sold.

Parmigiano Reggiano, similarly, is often referred to as the ‘king’ of Italian cheese. Production in Emilia-Romagna is a huge industry with 363 producers making 3.35 million wheels every year. However, in line with DOP criteria, the borders on where it can be made are very strict (only the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and parts of the provinces of Mantua and Bologna). Most definitely south of the river Po – anything north is Grana Padano.

I was able to visit two reggiano producers while in the area, Santa Cross and Castellazzo and got a thorough insight into the process which again is unchanged since the 15th Century.

Santa Cross is a fourth generation facility which produce 60 wheels of cheese a day. It takes 500 litres on milk to make each wheel. They have 20 000 wheels in their aging facility each of which gets turned and brushed daily for a minimum of one to two years. They have a fail rate of 4-6%. Castellazzo on the other hand is a cooperative of 18 producers and they only make 16 wheels a day.

Balsamic vinegar can only be made in Modena or Emilia Romagna – and only 0.006% of what is sold as balsamic vinegar in the world is the legitimate product, or aceto balsamico tradizionale. Its history can be traced back to 1046 and real DOP balsamico is made from only Trebbiano and/or Lambrusco grapes (that’s it) and aged for a minimum of 12 and up to 25+ years in a batteria of casks made from different woods – all of which impart certain characteristics. If you started with 100 litres you would finish with 7 litres after aged. The depth of flavour, viscosity and lingering agrodulce (sweet/sour) of real balsamico is phenomenal.

I visited two producers while in Emilia-Romagna; the first was Andrea Bezzecchi of Acetaia San Giacomo in Novellara. Andrea took me through the entire process; from the cooking down of his own grapes to the initial acetic fermentation downstairs, then moving upstairs into the batteria where he ages his vinegars in; oak, chestnut, juniper, cherry, acacia, mulberry and ash. We finished with a tasting of vinegars at different stages of maturation which emphasised the importance of the aging process.

Franco Mazzi has a tiny batteria in Modena and can now boast the 2nd best balsamico in the world. He recently scored 320 833 in the 2017 DOP tastings. His 30 year old vinegar was nothing short of exceptional. Franco makes vinegar out of passion – certainly not for money. For him it is about keeping tradition alive. Despite selling his aged vinegars for 120 Euros per 100 mls he has to work two other jobs in order to make ends meet.

Garum is a fermented fish sauce and its roots can be traced to ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine empires. Some food historians refer to it as the world’s oldest.

In Cetara, a sleepy fishing village on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, the tradition lives on but in a far more refined way. Colatura di Alici is made only from anchovies caught off the Gulf of Salern. Traditional Colatura is made by catching, salting and aging these anchovies for one to two years in chestnut barrels called terzigni. When deemed sufficiently aged, a hole is made in the bottom of the barrel and the resulting amber elixir reveals itself drop by drop. The locals are incredibly proud of their condiment and it is completely delicious – salty and loaded with umami. In Cetara, colatura accompanies many things – dressings for salads, drizzled on potatoes even used is fish braises. However, the most

popular use by far (as seen on every restaurant menu) was spaghetti with colatura, parsley and chilli.

China

Doubanjiang is a fermented chilli paste made from broadbeans and is often considered the soul of Sichuan cuisine (with Sichuan peppercorns being the heart). It is one of my favorite ferments and the main reason I came to China. Authentic doubanjiang can only be made in Pixian (about an hour north of Chengdu).

The history of doubanjiang is shrouded in secrecy and it is a subject of much rivalry to this day. I came across several differences in opinion but my understanding is that towards the end of Qing Dynasty the Chen Family, originally from Fujian, moved to Pixian (because of the Repopulation of Sichuan). In 1688, they accidentally mixed sun-dried broadbeans with chilli and salt, and in doing so invented this now integral condiment.

In 1803 one of their descendants, Chen Shou Xin, started mass production naming the factory Shun Tian Hao.

Later on, another family from Pixian started Yuan Feng Yuan, officially becoming the first real competitor for Chen's family. This started the great rivalry of the two families who tightly guarded their own secrets and forbade people form each side to socialise with the other. The son of Chen Shou Xin opened another factory called Shao Feng He in the 1930s.

In 1955 all factories were nationalized and all producers were united under the state owned Sichuan Pixian Douban Factory (this also served to institutionalise/make official much of the production, methods, and science). The companies denationalised in 1999 and split into a number of small private owned factories under the Pixian Douban Society. The Chen family’s, Shao Feng He, factory still exists today, and it seems the Yuan family may have become part of a number other factors/conglomerates.

Master Qiu, trained with the Yuan family, and is a descendant from the Yuan family productions and has worked for many other companies advising since the nationalisation.

Meeting Master Qiu was a long and formal affair – as is any ‘business’ transaction with a westerner. After an hour or so of meeting Qiu and his entourage and sharing pleasantries (through my guide and interpreter) it was time for lunch. After a long baiju (rice spirit) fueled lunch with much praise directed his way via his subsidiaries, we went back to the factory for tea. This lasted another hour or so until he finally deemed I was worthy of seeing his factory. What followed was a restricted ‘tour’ of the four air hangers allowing us access to certain areas of the production but with very vague explanations. The scale was enormous and impressive however the things I was most interested in, like the

production of the qu (the collection of fungus, bacteria and yeasts used to inoculate the broad beans) were most definitely out of bounds. It is big business and there was no chance of any secrets being revealed.

Fortunately for me, on the way home we dropped into a friend of my guides who too was mid doubanjiang production. His was on a tiny scale made from chillies he

grew himself organically. He was more than happy to talk about the process and in my opinion his was a far superior product.

Lacto-fermented pickles (paocai) are another staple in Sichuan cuisine and appear in almost every meal in one way shape or form. Chillies, garlic, ginger, vegetables and even eggs and tofu are fermented in different conditions to preserve and create interesting flavours and textures. They are also highly regarded for their health benefits and are eaten in stirfrys, soups and braises or just as a side dish with most meals. In times past every household would make their own but the practice is less common today.

South Korea

Fermented seafood is a staple around Korea. Not only a way to enjoy certain delicacies year-round (which is why the practice first started) it is now regarded as very much a delicacy. The tiny fishing town of Solseom on the south west coast is famous for two things; fermented seafood and aged sea salt. Here I had a meal which consisted solely of a bowl of rice, aged kimchi and 16 types of fermented seafood – oysters, octopus, squid, fish eggs, urchin, clams, fish guts, sea squirt, sea cucumber but to name a few. After a year of salting (in their already aged salt) they are combined with gochujang (a fermented chilli/soy paste) for further aging. The outcome is that flavour-wise they are all quite similar – but texturally they are vastly different.

High above the plains in South Eastern Korea is Baekyangsa Temple - home to Buddhist nun sister Jeong Kwan. Here she lives a simple life (albeit slightly more in the public eye since appearing on Netflix’s Chefs Table), tending to her 60 plus crocks on her balcony nestled in the lush forest. I spent two days at the monastery and she talked of how ‘balance and harmony of flavour cannot be rushed – they can only be achieved with time’. This is aptly demonstrated through her five year old kimchi, and ten year old ganjang (soy sauce) both of which were extraordinary. Her chilled buckwheat noodles served with ice cubes and the juices of various ferments straight from the crock has to be one of the most restorative and refreshing things I’ve ever eaten.

Makgeolli is a slightly sweet alcoholic beverage native to Korea. It is made from rice (or wheat) mixed with a nuruk, which is a fermentation starter made from rice and a combination of fungus, bacteria and yeast. I was very fortunate to visit Ms Midam who brews her own ‘natural’ makgeolli up in the mountains north east of Seoul. She wild inoculates her nuruk – not using a starter (which is no longer common practice) and grows a lot of the rice used herself. The rest of the rice is acquired from neighbouring organic farms. Her scale of production is very small but her finished product is exceptional and is now being sold to some of the premium restaurants around Korea and beyond. In one particular ‘brew’ she adds a native lotus leaf in the final stages of fermentation which imparts a delicious tannic flavour and colour.

Sempio is the largest producer of ganjang (soy sauce) in Korea. While I’m generally not that interested in the mass producers, I thought it was important to get an insight into the ‘bigger players’ in fermented foods. Founded in 1946, Sempio now has over a 60% share of the Korean consumer market and they have begun to export widely around the world. I was invited to tour their new $30 million fermentation lab and Mr Choi, who is head of Research and Development, personally took me around the facility where 120 food scientists are employed to develop new techniques, flavours and products.

Kimchi is synonymous with what we think of as fermented food in the west, however, it is so much more than what we find in our local Korean supermarket. There are well over 200 varieties of kimchi found throughout Korea and it is the one banchan (side dishes) that appear with almost every meal. The ‘Kimchi Museum’ is Seoul, as its name suggests, is all about the history, variations and social role that kimchi plays in Korea. I also got an insight into the ‘royal kimchis’ many of which are no longer found commercially. Kimchi is another ferment that I encountered that used to be made by most households in Korea but is now a bit of a dying art. Even ten years ago it was common to see onggi (fermentation vessels) lining people’s doorways but the practice in current society is less and less common. Many younger people I met had never made their own kimchi.

Japan

Terada Honke is located in the small town of Kozaki in the Chiba prefecture where they have been brewing sake since 1673. Terada Masaru grows his own rice and supplements with other small organic growers in the area. His naturally brewed sake is completely handmade in the age-old Kimoto method and consists of three ingredients; rice, water and koji (aspergillus oryzae). Honoured to visit and learn the process and finish with a tasting perfectly matched with fresh tofu from across the road.

Nancy Singleton Hachisu is the author of ‘Preserving the Japanese Way’ – one of my all-time favorite books. American born and married to a Japanese farmer she has lived in rural Saitama for the last 30 years. It was a real privilege to visit her on her farm and talk preservation and the role of fermented foods in Japan. She also took me to Yamaki Jozo – a local producer of shoyu (soy sauce), miso, tofu and pickles.

Aspergillus oryzae, known in English as koji is a filamentous fungus used in Japan for the production of ingredients including; miso, sake, mirin, shoyu (soy sauce) and rice vinegar. So important to food production in Japan it has now been declared a national fungus.

Yasutaka Kijima is a sixth generation koji and miso maker in Shimizu. His family have been producing in the same location for over 180 years. Like his forefathers his is a very manual and instinctive operation – his finger is his thermometer. Koji is made in batches of 100kg - some being sold on in bags and the rest being turned into miso. He sells both from his little shop which he runs with his elderly mother. The sad thing is that he is the end of the line. His children aren’t interested in taking over the family business because there’s no money in it. Mass production, globalisation and changing diets have hit his industry hard. His family business will close its doors when he can no longer keep up the significant workload required to make ends meet. I had the most incredible experience working and learning from Yasutake and was half- jokingly offered an apprenticeship.

Today in Japan only 1% of shoyu (soy sauce) is still made the traditional way – not mass produced and free from the preservatives and flavour enhancers which dominate not only shoyu production, but many (once artisanal) fermented foods. Of this one percent only a handful still use the original cedar barrels (kioke) for fermentation. The ones at Yamaroku on the island of Shōdoshima were made in 1868 and hold 6000 litres each. The soy beans are grown on the island and

the moromi (mash) is fermented for between 2 and 4 years before being pressed. The recipe remains unchanged for five generations and according to current owner Yasuo Yamamoto, ‘time is the only way to make the best flavour’.

Shibazuke is my all time favourite pickle. One of my highlights of my fellowship was to make it in the birthplace of the tsukemono, with all organic ingredients grown on site. Tami and Yuto have a beautiful farm in Ōhara, nestled in the mountains north of Kyoto. They sell their vegetables at the local farmers market and ferment the significant excess of eggplant, cucumber and shiso the authentic way. The pickle bears little resemblance to the preservative rich, msg laden, lumonous purple product readily available throughout Kyoto.

‘Shiba’ means firewood, and the story goes that a couple hundred years ago the women of Ōhara used to walk 15km each way, sometimes twice a day, with loads of firewood stacked on their heads to sell in Kyoto. They would also fill their pockets with their distinctive pickle to sell or trade to supplement their income.

Sugukizuke is another of the quitessential pickles of Kyoto (along with shibazuke and senmaizuke). Made from a variety of turnip called sugukina – legitimate production is limited to

the area of Kamigamo where it has been made for over 300 years. Its first recorded history traces its origins to Kamigamo shrine. Gaining access to see it made was in itself a challenge as the families making suguki keep their methodology exctremely close to home. I was very fortunate to be invited (through friends of friends) to visit master pickler Hajime Watanane and he talked me through the entire process; from growing the turnips through to the extensive and somewhat complicated fermentation. The results are amazing – crunchy, lactic and earthy. Again, an entirely different product to what is generally found in the markets.

Probably the most fascinating (and challenging) ferment of the trip was fermented sushi aka narezushi. Sushi as we know it came from fermenting crucian carp in rice, then discarding the rice once the fish was deemed preserved. The practice is believed to have started in the 8th Century around lakes Biwa and Yogo in Shiga prefecture. The tradition was largely abandoned during the Edo era and now lives on via a select few around Lake Yogo (about two hours north of Kyoto). Tokuyamazushi is a beautiful restaurant sitting on the side of the lake surrounded by mountains and forest. It is also booked out a year in advance. Chef Hiroaki Tokuyama feeds 15 people a day with a set menu highlighting his fermented fish. His process is traditional using only natural ingredients and Hiroaki-san serves it in the rice it was fermented in, which by this stage has broken down to a thick congee like consistency. The flavour is intense; very acidic, blue cheesy, yoghurty, fishy. While I can’t say that I loved it – it was definitely unlike anything I’ve ever tasted and apparently it only takes a few goes and then you’re hooked.

Recommendations and Dissemination

Vegetable and legume fermentation has come a long way over recent years in Australia. While these foods are a staple in many countries around the world, they have only really entered the mainstream diet here quite recently. In times past vegetable fermentation was shrouded in mystery, whereas now, even my local café is making their own fermented pickles.

Fermentation in Australia has now entered a boom phase. Many restaurants are undergoing their own fermentation practices, fermentation stalls/products are more readily available at shops and farmers market, and perhaps most importantly, there is increasing literature about the subject which is demystifying the process – making these foods more available. There is also a lot more opportunity to learn how to ferment your own food with an increasing number of hands on workshops and fermenting demonstrations held around the country.

I firmly believe that fermentation isn’t just another ‘food trend’ and already, upon returning from my Fellowship, have found that more and more people are embracing the fermentation revival. There is interest not only in the associated health benefits but more and more people are fascinated by the alchemy and want to understand the amazing transformations (and flavour developments) that occur to foods when they are fermented.

This growing interest should only be encouraged. I personally would love to see programs introduced by local and state government to teach people how to ferment their own food. In a few simple workshops, members of the public could learn

the skills to preserve foods so that to they can be eaten year round. It is a very healthy, cost effective way to eat and gives the maker incredible satisfaction – having that real connection to the food that they eat.

In schools, for example, I envisage a program that essentially follows in the footpath of the kitchen/garden programs that have proved to be so successful in teaching children about the joys of growing their own food. In this capacity, students could learn the basic principles of vegetable fermentation in a fun and hands on way, then take their acquired knowledge home to share with their family.

This Churchill Fellowship was an incredible experience and gave be an invaluable insight into the practice, history and cultural role of fermented foods around the world.

I documented much of my trip on social media (@roughrice on Instagram) which generated a significant following and there has been much interest in my research since I’ve returned to Hobart. I have recently completed articles on fermentation for; The Gourmet Traveller Magazine, The Australian and The Age/Sydney Morning Herald.

I have also been interviewed on ABC radio, for SBS online and in The Smith Journal.

I recently presented, cooked and hosted two workshops at Ferment the Festival in Adelaide and also did a presentation on fermented foods at Rootstock wine fair in Sydney.

In March and April 2018, I will be hosting 2 x 2 day ‘fermentation masterclass’ at The Agrarian Kitchen cooking school and am planning some other workshops in local community gardens.

I am also currently in liaising with Hardie Grant and Phaidon publishers discussing options for a book. If all goes ahead it will be a book on the people who make fermented foods, the people I met on this Churchill Fellowship.