Tourism

46 India & You � September-October 2010

Belur

Due southDue south

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South India is replete with some of themost wonderful temple architecturedating back over 1,000 years. It was almost as if several dynasties spread all

over the peninsula and over several centurieswere competing with one another to leave behind the best footprints for the future.

From this large choice, extending fromthe southern tip of India right up to Godavari River in Maharashtra and AndhraPradesh and including several great dynasties – Chola, Pandya, Chera and Vijayanagara – it would be a huge challengefor an architect or historian to select the besttemple architecture in south India. Yet, mostwould agree that the Hoysala dynasty ofKarnataka built some of the finest temples.The Hoysala dynasty ascended after theydefeated the Chalukyas in 1187 and in timebecame even mightier, then rose above all tobecome the paramount rulers even over theCholas and Pandyas in South India. TheHoysala dynasty originally had their capitalat Halebid (about 17 kilometres from Belur)where they ruled for over 150 years. However, it was attacked by invaders a couple of times during the 14th century, reducing the once grand capital to povertyand ruins. Thus, the Hoysalas shifted theirseat of power to Belur.

The dynasty built over 100 grand temples, replete with exquisite art, using anew style. They designed their shrines asstar-shaped structures and not the usualcubical form. The main temple at Belur inparticular stands out for its beauty.

Though practically all the Hoysala kingswere patrons of the arts, the main builderswere Vishnuvardhana, Veera Ballala I andVeera Ballala II. Vishnuvardhana built theChannakeshava temple of Belur, which is alsoone of the most important structures in the region. According to legend, the temple wasbuilt to commemorate his conversion fromJainism to Vaishnavism. He proclaimed hisconversion by constructing a large number oftemples all over his kingdom. These templesserved not only as places of worship but alsoseveral other social and political functions, including courts, treasure houses and schools.

The Channakeshava temple has an ornamental Gopuram or main hall that standstall. The huge courtyard is decorated with aGaruda, the chariot of Lord Vishnu, as well asa golden horse and a temple chariot. The temple, which is star-shaped, is astonishinglyornate. Every centimetre of surface seems tohave been used for carving. These friezes tellthe stories of the Upanishads, Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharata.

India & You � September-October 2010 47

If you are interested in Indian temple architecture, head south to

see some of the finest examples. Although there is a lot of

competition, the consensus is that the Hoysala dynasty built the

finest temples. ??? takes a look.

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There are also a variety of creepers andcornices with beadwork. The lowest frieze isthat of a series of 650 charging elephantsaround the walls; no two elephants are thesame. They symbolise stability and tremendous strength and are consideredthe weight lifters of the temple. Next comethe lions, which symbolise courage whilethe horses above them embody speed. Thecreepers signify beauty.

The temple is topped by 42 statues ofheavenly nymphs, or Madanikas. These areexclusive to Belur and unparalleled in theirbeauty. Each of these statuettes is said to reflect a particular mood: The Beauty witha Mirror, The Lady with the Parrot or TheHuntress. The beauty of the temple

interiors leaves you speechless. The centralfeature, the six-foot idol of Krishna, was installed in 1117 AD. There are about 48 pillars of various sizes, shapes and designs,all bearing testimony to remarkableartistry. Inside, even in the darkness, youcan see the shining pillars, each unique in itsown splendour. The most popular being thefiligreed Narasimha pillar in the Navaranga.It is said to have revolved on its ball bearingsonce. A small space has been left on it to besculpted by anyone who has the talent. It remains untouched. The Mohini pillar alsodeserves a special mention as it has beencarved with great care and proportion. Hereagain, the spotlight is forever focussed onthe four Madanikas on the ceiling.

The larger temple is surrounded bynearly half a dozen small ones built for otherdeities or in honour of Vishnuvardhan andhis queens.

Halebidu is home to the ornate Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples,which date back to the 12th century. However,Halebidu was sacked by the armies of MalikKafur in the early 14th century, after which itfell into a state of disrepair. The temple enshrines Hoysaleswara and Santaleswara.Hoysaleswara is named after the builder Vishnuvardhana Hoysala and Santaleswaraafter his wife, Queen Santala. The sancta arebuilt on a stellar plan, with a sukhanasi,

48 India & You � September-October 2010

Tourism

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navaranga and Nandi Mandapa. The plans foreach of these temples resemble that of theChennakesava temple.

The Hoysaleswara temple with its profusion of carvings is a masterpiece.Thousands of figures appear on its walls.The basement of the temple has the mostrichly sculpted friezes. Horsemen charge,war elephants charge – all in stone. Scenesfrom the Ramayana and the Mahabharataadd to the grandeur. The Kedareswara temple built by King Ballala II at Halebiduand now in ruins is considered an architectural gem. As with the Hoysaleswaratemple, this temple has classic friezes andscenes from the epics. There are 180 set under floral toranas in the upper parts ofthe walls. Also nearby are Jain temples dedicated to Parsvanatha, Santhanatha andAdinatha.

50 India & You � September-October 2010

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