travel guide june 2004

3rd Edition

Volunteer Travel Guide, Romania

3rd Edition

Published and Printed byPeace Corps RomaniaStr. Negustori #16Sector 2Bucuresti

EditorsAdam McGarityAnna Olson

Cover ArtDustin Degrande

PhotographsDustin Degrande, Men Working on Village Museum, pg. 18Thomas Jernigan, Alley and Church in Cluj, pg. 14Tara Karasch, Orthodox Church in Sighisoara, pg. 23Amanda Greep, Sibiu Pedestrian Street, pg. 22

Information and Entry Contributions:Richard Lapine, Arad - Louise Austin, Beclean Pe Somes - Tony Chamberlain, Bistrita - Kathy and JohnBaker, Botosani - Mercedes Riofrio, Braila - Debbie Walker, Braila - Dan Alexander, Braila - Eileen Burke,Brasov - Cliff Griffin - Beth Minor, Calimanesti/Caciulata - Campulung Muscel - Michael Destro, CampulungMuscel - Jason Perrotta, Cluj Napoca - Patty Bortman, Cluj Napoca - Carla Rodriguez, Constanta - AdrianaMosoiu, Constanta - Allan Goldberg, Craiova - Kris Vagos, Deva - Molly Davies, Fagaras - Danielle Eleeman,Focsani - Evie Warawka, Focsani - Annabelle Townson, Galati - Lisa Fisher, Giurgiu - Eileen Burke - Ileanda -Karen Larson, Lugoj - Annalisa Peterson, Lugoj - Kate Jacobs, Mangalia - Dustin DeGrande, Miercurea Ciuc -David Richenthal, Miclosoara - Kathy Tin, Odorheiu Secuiesc - Steve Bergman, Odorheiu Secuiesc - ColbyDeHoff, Piatra Neamt - Michael Richard, Piatra Neamt - Nina Porzucki, Ramnicu Valcea - Kirsten Muetzel, Resita- Anthony Tang, Resita - Caras Severin, Resita - Robert Mardock, Sebes - Rebecca Fergusson-Lutz, Sibiu -Amanda Greep, Sibiu - Curtis Lindsey, Sighetu Marmatiei - Anne Nagrant, Sighetu Marmatie - Laura Barland,Sighetu Marmatie Karisha Kuypers, Sighisoara - Riley Graebner, Sighisoara - Eileen Valdez-Woods, Sinaia -Karisha Kuypers, Sinaia - Matthew Shurtlef, Suceava - Seth Baker, Suceava - Erin Belitskus, Suceava - JoshBurke, Targoviste - James Nichols, Targu Jiu - Jack Dougherty, Targu Mures - Kirsten Muetzel, Timisoara - AndyTrincia, Timisoara - Margaret Willens, Timisoara - Jackie Zirhelt, Tulcea - Michael Lacyk, Tulcea - ThomasMoviel, Vatra Dornei

First Edition Published2001

This EditionJune 2004

Although the authors and publisher have tried to make the information as accurate as possible, they acceptno responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.

ContentsLetter from the editors . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Wallachia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Calimanesti/Caciulata . . . . . . . . .2

Campulung Muscel . . . . . . . . . . .3

Craiova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Giurgiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Ramnicu Valcea . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Targoviste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Targu Jiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Beclean pe Somes . . . . . . . . . .10

Brasov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Clu Napoca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Deva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Fagaras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Ileanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Miclosoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Miercurea Ciuc . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Ordorheiu Secuiesc . . . . . . . . .20

Sebes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Sibiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Sighisoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Sinaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Targu Mures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Zalau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Moldavia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Botosani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Braila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Focsani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Galati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Piatra Neamt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Suceava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Vatra Dornei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Mauramures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Sighetu Marmatiei . . . . . . . . . . .34

Banat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Arad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Lugoj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Resita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Timisoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Dobrogea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Constanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Tulcea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

List of Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Letter From the Editors

Greetings to all,

Romania is a fascinating country, and adventurous travelers will find no shortage inter-esting and exhilarating experiences here . . . Peace Corps volunteers know.Volunteers all over the country have made this travel guide possible through contribut-ing information about their sites and places they have traveled within the country.Often this information is the kind obtained only through the experience of living andserving in the country, and it is our pleasure to pass down these experiences so thatothers may see the beauty and distinction that Romania posesses.

We are happy to present to you the Third Edition of the Peace Corps Romania TravelGuide. Although this edition will be used primarily by volunteers, we have approachedthe task of updating and improving upon past guides with the non-volunteer in mind.We wish to see the guide assist all travelers who flip through its pages, and we are con-fident that it is a quality companion to any standard travel guide.

We wish to thank all who assisted in the creation of the travel guide, and we wish to allour readers the best as they discover Romania’s treasures. Drum bun!

Sincerely,

Adam McGarity (Group 15)Anna Olson (Group 15)

1

2 Volunteer Travel GuideW

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Wallachia

Wallachia is the flat southern region of Romania comprised largely of farms and industrial towns. Itis marked to the north by the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains and to the south by the DanubeRiver, which is also the border between Romania and Bulgaria. It is rarely called Wallachia anymore,but rather “Tara Romaneasca” (Romanian Country).

The region offers several places worth visiting and attractions worth seeing. Of course the capital cityBucuresti is a common destination with an intriguing Old Town, the monstrous Parliament building,built under Nicolae Ceasescu, and all the conveniences (and inconveniences) of a capital city. Otherhighlights in the region include monstaries and churches that are centuries old, well preservedRoman ruins, and the remains of Vlad Tepes’ court and castle in Targoviste. The region also holdsfamous artwork with three sculptures by the famed Brancusi in Targu Jiu, and the beautiful TheordorAman Art Museum in Craiova.

Calimanesti/Caciulata

��LocationCalimanesti is the town south of Calciulata and is the name often used in reference to Calimanesti,Calciulata, and the towns on the opposite side of the Olt River. Calimanesti proper is a quiet bed-room community in which live many who work in Calciulata. Calimanesti is located just north ofRamnicu Valcea, in the Olt Valley. While the towns are not well connected by train, buses runningbetween Sibiu and Ramnicu Valcea, some of which continue on to Bucaresti, are available through-out the day. Dacos Bus Company, headquartered in Ramnicu Valcea, may be contacted for reser-vations and departure times at (0250) 741-411 (Ramnicu Valcea) or (0744) 706-200 (Bucuresti)

��AttractionsCalimanesti is a spa resort, although somewhat past its heyday. Nevertheless, the town is beautiful-ly located in a heavily forested valley. The Cozia and Turnu Monasteries are just north ofCalimanesti, and are well worth a visit. Cozia Monestary was built by Mircea cel Batran (Mircea theOld) and is also his final resting place. The monastery is one of the best preserved of its kind. In theback of the Monastery visitors can see the high water marks from when the Olt River flooded beforethe dams were installed. It is a 5 minute walk from the bus stop on the northbound side of the road,an easy walk from the Caciulata hotels. The best way to go to Turnu Monastery is by way of a shorttaxi ride.

Many people come to the area for the natural hot springs, which are plentiful in the area. The sul-fur pools of Calciulata are refreshing but are overrun with splashing children in the summer and arenot particularly “clean” by American standards. However, the hotels also offer good massages for300.000 lei. A short 5 minute walk south from the hotels along the river is a nice park with a largecovered building holding many natural mineral water springs. Clearly posted above each spring is alisting of the contents of the water and the ailments it cures. The park is a great place to people watch,fish, and buy fresh berries and honey. Because of its location in the valley, there are also numerousopportunities for hiking, and many beautiful spots to relax or picnic.

Hiking: To Stanisoara and Beyond – Cross the foot bridge to Pausa, over the river, train tracks, andtruck route. The “Villa Pausa” will be ahead of you on the left. Two-three hours up the dirt road,tucked in the mountains is Stanisoara Monastery. From here it is a two hour slog straight up to thetop.

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iaFrom Turnu to Stanisoara and Beyond – Take a taxi or the train to Turnu Monastery. Behind the build-ing are trails to the top of Cozia Mountain (longer and harder than the Stanisoara Route). If lookingfor more of a “walk in the woods” than a “hike,” take the relatively flat trail to Stanisoara Monasteryand down the dirt road to Pausa; there is also a side trail to a beautiful waterfall.

Note: It is not recommended to end hikes at Turnu because it is secluded and has no Taxis or buses,and few trains.

��DiningThe area lacks private restaurants, but each hotel has has a restaurant that serves the typicalRomanian fare. The notable exception, however; is the restaurant to the right of the bus stop inCalciulata (as you are facing it). Here are the best Papanas in the country, not to mention a well keptand rarely used, billiards table.

��LodgingIn Calimanesti, the Hotel Centru is a typical one-star hotel located along the main road. The hotelis in good condition and charges only 300.000 lei for a double. In Caciulata, all the hotels are thesame except for the new Hotel Lilliac and Trandafir (directly across the street from the bus stop).They are comparably priced to the other hotels (about 1.000.000 lei for a double) but of exceptional-ly better quality with their large, well lit rooms and big, beautiful, modern baths.

Campulung Muscel

��LocationCampulung is located on the road between Pitesti and Brasov, approximately 100 kilometers awayfrom each. The best way to go is by maxi-taxi from the Pitesti bus station; “Apollo” is the maxi-taxicompany name.

��AttractionsCampulung Muscel is not normally considered a tourist destination. Most travelers passing throughare on their way to Brasov or Curtea de Arges and aren’t aware that for a brief period, beginning in1330, Campulung was the first capital of Romania or that there are a number of sites worth visitingin the town itself, and the surrounding area.

Six kilometers south of Campulung is Jidava Castrul, the best-preserved Roman ruins in ArgesCounty. In the third century, 500 Roman soldiers were housed in this fortified camp to help protectthe eastern boundary of the province. The camp included the officer’s quarters, housing for the sol-diers, grain storage facilities, and a central heating system. There is a museum on the grounds(admission is about 15 cents) that has numerous artifacts from the site and a detailed scale model ofthe fortifications. The facility is open daily from 9:00 – 5:00. If no one is there to welcome you, wan-der until the caretaker who lives nearby comes to assist you.

Campulung has two fourteenth century churches on the main street, Strada Negru Voda. The bestknown is the Negru Voda Monastery and Church, founded in 1292. The other is the Baratia, aCatholic church built in the first part of the fourteenth century.

10 kilometers north of town is a turn going to Namiesti. One more kilometer down this road is theNamiesti Monastery, established in the first half of the sixteenth century. The church at themonastery is a cave church with only the entrance extending from the side of the hill. German artillery


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rounds from the nearby Mateias battlefield destroyed part of the monastery in 1916, but it was rebuiltby 1921. The monastery is occupied entirely by nuns.

Two kilometers further along the road to Brasov is the Mateias Mausoleum, Monument, andMuseum, site of a major, early World War I battle. In August of 1916, Romania ended its neutralityand declared war on Germany. German forces already stationed in Transylvania and Hungary sooninvaded. In a two-pronged offensive, the Germans attempted to drive down through the Jiu Valley andBran Pass to capture Bucuresti. At the beginning of October, 1916, a battle began near Mateias, andan under-equipped Romanian force held off the German army for 45 days. At that point, theRomanian forces were forced to withdraw because of setbacks in the Jiu Valley, and Bucuresti soonfell. The Mateias Mausoleum contains the remains of some of the 2,300 Romanian soldiers that diedthere.

The museum is opened daily 9:00-5:00, and admission is $0.25; it contains artifacts from the period,photographs, and a diorama of Romanian soldiers dug in at the ridge overlooking Dragoslavele. Ifyou ask, they will dim the lights and do a war light and sound show using the diorama. Afterwards,the backside of the monument offers the same view of the valley that the soldiers had.

��DiningOne good terrace in Campulung is Ayelon. Their pizza is nothing special, but otherwise the food isgood enough. Campulung also offers a couple of fast food joints.

��LodgingFor a night or two in the area, an interesting alternative to the usual hotel room is the Magura

Complex in quiet Bughea de Sos, 5 kilometers from Campulung. It was founded in the early 20th

century, and little has changed since. The complex offers lodging facilities, a small dining room andbar, therapeutic mineral baths, and related services. Prices start about $8.00 per bed per night.Details and directions are available at the Hotel Muscel (which is 800,000 lei per night, but not rec-ommended) in Campulung.

Craiova

��LocationCraiova is located in southwest Romania on the 900 CFR train line and on the Bucharesti-Timisoarahighway about 3 hours west of Bucharest. The population reaches over 300,000, and the city isworth an overnight stay.

��AttractionsThe Theodor Aman Art Museum definitely deserves a visit. It is an exquisite French Palace thatwas completed in 1907. The museum displays works of art from different periods, including six worksof Brancusi, one of which is the well-known “Sarutul” (The Kiss). The museum is north of the mainsquare on Calea Unirii and admission is about $0.75. On the eastern side of the central square isthe Prefectura, which displays a memorial plaque in honor of the 25 Craiovans who were killed dur-ing the 1989 revolution. Inside the Prefectura is a beautiful foyer, gated with ornate marble archesand stairways. The Filamonica Oltenia (0251 411 284) is close to the Mercur shopping area andhas a first rate orchestra that plays Fridays at 18:30. Craiova has a nice botanical garden withinwalking distance of the Hotel Jiul. A short taxi ride away is the Romanescu Park, a hundred hectaregreenspace with a small lake, terraces and trails.

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ia��DiningThe best restaurant in Craiova is La Dolce Vita. The restaurant serves excellent Italian food and ison Str. Carol I near the Calea Bucuresti intersection. A good restaurant for a snack or lunch is ElGreco Pizzerie, which serves good coffee, pizza, salad, bruschetta (recommended), and milkshakes. El Greco is near the city hall on A.I. Cuza nr. 8. Behind the Prefectura is Mercur, Craiova’sshopping center. Across from Mercur are several terraces. On Str. Grivita Rosie , behind Mercur, isanother good restaurant Sale & Pepe where the traditional chicken dish with polenta is inexpensiveand delicious.

��LodgingHotel Jiul (0251 414 166) is a nice and centrally located hotel charging 30 Euro per night, breakfastincluded. It is a short taxi ride from the train station. Hotel Central (0251 534 895) is the cheapesthotel option at 500,000 lei per head. Hotel Parc (0251 417 257) charges 24 Euro for a single and 33Euro for a double. Golden House (0251 406 270) is the most luxurious choice and charges 69 Eurofor a single and 90 Euro for a double.

Giurgiu

��LocationGiurgiu is situated due south of Bucuresti and is the major border crossing for car and rail traffic intoBulgaria and continuing into Turkey. The simplest way to go to Giurgiu is by maxi-taxi. Maxi-taxisdepart from the Eroii Revolutie Metro station every 30 minutes daily from 7:00 am-8:00 pm. The costfor a ticket is approximately $2.00 and the ride lasts about an hour. The last maxi-taxi returning toBucuresti leaves Giurgiu at 7:30 pm.

��AttractionsAlthough originally considered only a place through which to pass, Giurgiu offers the visitor not onlya fascinating look at Romanian history, but also many opportunities for outdoor activities, dining, andculture.

Historical Sites: The ruins of the Fortress of Miercea cel Batran, built in the early 1400s, are locat-ed near the free zone on the main road through the city. In the center of the downtown area, one canfind the Clock Tower, which the Turks originally built as a lookout tower in 1771. The CatedralaAdormiera Maicii Domnului, built in 1854, has beautiful interior frescos. The cathedral is locatednear the city center behind the Romarta Shopping Store. Biserica Erorilor is another church with along history and unique architecture; it is beside the hospital, and across from the military base onthe main thoroughfare of the town. The History Museum Muzeul Teohari Antonescu, which wasbuilt in 1840 and renovated in 1977, houses an engaging collection of historical artifacts not only fromthe immediate area, but from all of Romania. The Village Museum, a smaller museum located justoutside of town, is also worth a visit. In addition to the above historical sites, visitors may also enjoythe architecture of the Old Town. The quaint cobblestone streets of this historical neighborhood arelined with wonderful examples of turn of the century architecture.

Outdoor Activities: Giurgiu offers much to travelers looking for an outdoor adventure. SurroundingGiurgiu are five pristine forests, considered natural preservation zones. They are ideal for picnick-ing and hiking. In the Balanoaia Forest, which has many amenities for outdoor activities, camperscan pitch their tents or rent wooden cabins. Along the Danube, those interested in fishing and boat-ing can find their niche. Although there is nowhere in Giurgiu to rent fishing gear, equipment may bepurchased at the central market without great expense. River and dining cruises can be booked


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with advanced notice through the three companies operating out of the Port of Giurgiu. Travelerswishing to stay within the limits of Girgiu are advised to visit any of the seven well-maintained publicparks, located throughout the city, or the swimming pool, located in the Port area along the DanubeRiver.

Entertainment: Teatru Valah offers a variety of live performances on most weekends throughout theyear. The Casa de Cultura is excellent for those wishing to take in some art, theater, dancing andmusic. Regular exhibitions, seminars, and workshops are presented here regularly and cover a vari-ety of artistic mediums from poetry to flamenco dancing. The Salonul Artelor is an art gallery fea-turing local artists and traveling exhibitions.

��DiningPerla, located in the Port and on the Danube, is an expensive but wonderful choice for dining. Itoffers spectacular views, good food, and surprisingly good service. Taverna serves reasonablypriced, hearty Italian meals. The restaurant is Italian-owned and also serves pizza, both for take outand for those dining in. Miorta is the best place in Giurgiu for homemade Romanian food includingexcellent sarmale, mamaliga, tochitura, and schnitzel. It is located on Alecsandri Street near the cen-ter. La Italianul, located in Alee Parc, is by far the best terrace restaurant in Romania. The pizza isoutstanding, the setting beautiful, and the drinks refreshing. Irish Pub on Strada Garii is not quiteIrish, but a relaxing place for light food and drinks. Select is a high-end bar in the center of town witha nice terrace and average food.

��LodgingThere are a number of places to stay in Giurgiu. Steua Dunarii, located on Bd. Mihai Viteazu, is atwo-star hotel and is available at (0246) 217-270. Pulling in one star is Victoria, (0246) 212-569,located at Strada Garii nr. 1. Motel Prietenia, (0246)-221-971, is located on Str. Prieteniei, nr. 1.Vlasca (0246) 213-451, is located at Str. Portului nr. 30.

Ramnicu Valcea

��LocationRamnicu Valcea is a medium-sized town nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains threehours north of Bucharest. You may reach Valcea from the Autogara Militar located on the outskirtsof Bucharest at the Pacii Metro exit. Buses leave frequently throughout the day, the last bus leav-ing the station at 19:00.

��AttractionsValcea is home to 120,000 people. A typical Romanian working class city, Valcea still offers manyattractions for the visitor. There is a philharmonic, located on Calea lui Traian (0250 732956) whichholds a concert at 19:00 every Monday from September through June. Valcea also boasts of an artmuseum at Str. Antonescu 29 and a history museum at Calea lui Traian 159. Ramnicu Valcea wasalso home to writer Anton Pann who wrote the Romanian national anthem and whose childhoodhome, at St. Stirbei Voda 18, is now a museum open to the public.

Though possibly the biggest historical attraction in Rm. Valcea is the Village Museum (MuzeulSatului) that lies at the edge of town on the road towards Calimanesti. The Village Museum is a col-lection of buildings typical to Valcea County including a schoolhouse, village pub and church. Themuseum is run by a kind, older woman full of Oltenian famed hospitality who will give you a person-alized tour including local legends at no extra charge. It is well worth the visit. A maxi taxi runs con-

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iatinuously from the center of town towards the Village Museum and can be boarded at Calea LuiTraian in front of the Seytour restaurant in the north part of town.

Day trips: A short bus or taxi ride west of the city lays Olanesti. Olanesti is famous for its numer-ous springs (izvor), which are said to cure a myriad of illnesses. Besides the curing waters, Olanestiis a peaceful place to walk; there are many paths on which you may wander through the woods.There is also a smorgasbord of mici (Romanian grilled sausage) stands and places to buy cheapimported plastic knicnicks. A little further west of Valcea is the village of Hurezu. This village isknown throughout Romania for its distinctive pottery decorated with the Hurezu rooster. Hurezuholds a Ceramics Festival every summer the first weekend of June. Hurezu is also home to themost well preserved Brancoveanu style monastery a UNESCO World Heritage site from the late17th century.

��DiningPizza and Romanian food are the two dining options. Pizzeria Okay, an "upscale" pizza joint offersboth pizza and Romanian fare. It is located in the center of town a short walk from the Hotel Alutus.Immediately across the street is another "Okay" restaurant Pubs & More. There is no difference inmenu here only the atmosphere is a little less teenager and more smoke (if that's possible). Caddycorner from the Hotel Alutus is Jet Set, a night club/ restaurant. Here you can order from the univer-sal Romanian menu of schnitzel and pizza. For more traditional Romanian cuisine go to the HanulHaiducilor located in the north side of town on Calea lui Traian. They always have sarmale and por-tions are plentiful. Right around the corner from the Haiducilor if you have an inkling for dessert isthe Gelateria. They serve enormous desserts of bonifide Italian gelato. The best part about theplace is that the desserts really look like the pictures on the menu.

��LodgingRamnicu. Valcea has two reputable hotels. The communist style Hotel Alutus is situated in the cen-ter of town adjacent to the main square on Str. Praporgescu. The newly remodeled Hotel Geminisits at the end of a quiet street well marked from the main thoroughfare Calea lui Traian.

Targoviste

��LocationTargoviste is 45 kilometers northwest of Bucuresti, Romania’s capital. The slowest, but surest wayto reach Targoviste is to take a Personal train (the slow train), which stops at every station betweenthe two cities and leaves from Gara de Nord in Bucuresti. Travelers can verify train schedules at thestation. The quickest way to get to and from Targoviste is by maxi-taxi. From Bucuresti, maxi-taxisleave hourly from the maxi-taxi stop two blocks from Gara de Nord (corner of Stefan Furtuna andDinicu Golescu). Returning to Bucuresti, maxi-taxis and buses are available in front of the train sta-tion and leave every 30-40 minutes.

��AttractionsTargoviste is a city rich in history and culture. It stood as the capital of the nation for over 300 years,claiming home to such residents as Vlad Tepes and Michael the Brave. The city, like the rest of thecountry, is making a difficult transition to a free market economy, and has taken great strides toimprove the aesthetics of the city; it has planted over 8,000 flowers along its parks and boulevards,restored its many ancient churches, and replaced major sidewalks.


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Historical sites: The greatest point of interest in Targoviste is certainly the Princely Court andCastle Ruins. Dracula hunters must put this destination in their travel plans, as it was once the homeof the infamous Vlad Tepes. Today, the site is Targoviste’s biggest and most beautiful park, completewith a lake and boat rental. Printed guides are available in English and French. From the sunsettower, one can see the snowcapped Bucegi Mountains. Outside the train station are the militarybarracks; this is the place where, on Christmas day 1989, Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elenawere tried and executed, and the Revolution was brought to an end. While photography and entryinto the barracks are denied, this spot remains an important historical reminder of the end of the com-munist regime. The historic old center was designed and built by Italian architects. The area is theheart of great shopping and restaurants. Three kilometers from the center is the beautiful DealuMonastery, dating back to the sixteenth century. It is here that the head of Michael the Brave is kept.Targoviste also boasts five museums: The History Museum, Art Museum, Police Museum, WritingMuseum, and Printing Museum, which contains Romania’s first printing press. All museums arelocated close to one another in the center of the city.

Entertainment: Films are shown at the Theatre Independenti behind the Prefectura. Enjoy a liveproduction at the Tony Bulandra Theater near the train station. For nightlife, sip on a pint at BlueCafé behind Rafenstein, or at Groove in the Old Center. Art Gallery Pub across from the centralpark often has live music. For those with a taste for dancing, the only club worth attending is Rosa,which is a dollar cab ride on the road towards Bucuresti. Internet cafes are abundant in Targoviste,including one at Blue Café for those who enjoy a beer while checking their email.

��DiningFor a town of its size, Targoviste is graced with several quality dining options. Casa Veche, locatedin the Old Center, is a well-designed restaurant specializing in Romanian and Italian cuisine. Duringthe summer the garden terrace outside is a beautiful place to enjoy a meal. Don Quijote is anothergreat restaurant with traditional food and a cozy atmosphere. It is also located near the Old Center.Malex, near the train station, serves traditional Romanian food and also sells the original local artdecorating the walls. Behind the 1 Mai market is Zodiak, another traditional restaurant with reason-able prices. Pizza You and Me, in spite of its horrible name, has the best pizza and sandwiches intown. For a change of pace, try Chinese Restaurant, which is owned by a refugee from TianeminSquare; it is located across from the old center. Mondial is beside central park and serves fast food:soup, salads, sandwiches, pizza and cakes. Hanul Targoviste, located on the road to Bucaresti nearthe center, claims the prize for best traditional food in town.

��LodgingTwo major hotels serve travelers in Targoviste. The three-star Hotel Dambovita has rooms overlook-ing central park. Prices range from $19.00-25.00, and the phone number is (0245) 213-370. HotelValahia is across from the main square. Rooms here cost $17.00-$23.00, and the hotel may bereached at (0245) 634-491.

Targu Jiu

��LocationTargu Jiu is the capital of Gorj County, in the Oltenia region. The city is located about halfwaybetween Bucaresti and Timisoara, north of Craiova. From the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains,home of the Horned Viper, comes the Jiu River supplying Targu Jiu with most of its drinking water.

��AttractionsGorj County offers to the traveler monasteries, mountains, museums, famous sculptures, painters,wildlife, hunting, and caving.

Art and Culture: Targu Jiu is home to 3 world-renowned sculptures by Constantin Brancusi,who lived in both Romania and France. His Endless Column, found near Erorilor Street, is aboutfifty feet tall and made of solid stone six feet thick. In Brancusi Park, at the end of Victoriei Street,are two of Brancusi’s sculptures. The Kissing Gate emphasizes the bond between man andwoman, and the Table of Silence is dedicated to those who died in WWI. The county history muse-um Muzeul Judetean de Istorie, the Brancusi Museum, and the Art Museum are all worth a visit.Romanian blown glass can be found at two places in Targu Jiu. Star Glass S.C., (0253)226-154and S.C. Euroglass, (0253) 238-350 offer travelers a personal tour of the kilns. Eighty percent ofthe glass produced in Targu Jiu is exported to the United States.

Day Trips: Hobita is a village about 15 kilometers from Targu Jiu and contains the house ofConstantin Brancusi, which is now a museum. Between June and August, Eastern Europeanartists gather here to compete against one another in stone sculpting. All works in-progress andtheir final products are open to the public. Buses go from the bus station (near the train station) toHobita; departure times are available at the station. Monasteries abound in Gorj County.Tismana, hidden within the Carpathian Mountains, is a monastery with breathtaking views of themountains and is a worthwhile side trip. Hunting in Gorj County is possible for those who obtaina license trough the Ministry of Agriculture. Summer through the fall is the buck season, and win-ter is the time to hunt wolf, cerf, deer, and bear. Hunting season, with the exception of fox hunting,comes to an end in the spring. The river keys of Octet are a pathway to some of Gorj’s magnifi-cent caves. Polovragi, Woman’s Cave, and Bear’s Cave are but a few.

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Transylvania

Easily the best known region in Romania, Transylvania offers travelers the typical Dracula huntingadventures in locations such as Bran and Sighisoara, but there is much more to the region than afabled bloodsucker and his equally intriguing historical counterpart, Vlad Tepes. Transylvania is anaturally beautiful region in central northwest Romania bordered by the Carpathian mountains andaccounting for approximately one third of Romania's landmass. Much of the region is covered bybeautiful farms, hills, wooded forests, lakes and ancient pine trees, not unlike interior sections ofMaine. In Transylvania, travelers can experience three cultures simultaneously-Romanian,Hungarian and German. All three languages are spoken in the region (depending on the location),and it is the most socially diverse region in the country, reflecting its turbulent past. The region offerslimitless opportunities for skiing and hiking, many opportunities to visit old castles, traditional villages,and is the center of Szekely (Hungarian) culture in Romania.

Beclean Pe Somes

��LocationBeclean is nestled in the scenic foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, in the northern part ofTransylvania. It is located about ninety minutes northeast of Cluj, on the road between Dej andBistrita. It is also accessible by train on the 400 line.

��AttractionsOutdoor activities: The hills and forests surrounding Beclean offer visitors a variety of recreationalactivities for all seasons. Amateur skiing is popular with locals in the winter, while forest trails pro-vide serene landscapes and spectacular views of the town and countryside in the summer.Swimming, sunbathing, and fishing are popular past-times in the summer, and there are smallsnack shops on the river for your convenience. Nearby natural salt-water springs provide a wel-come respite from minor aches and pains. The quiet, friendly atmosphere of country life, along withthe convenience and courtesy of the modern world make Beclean a nice addition to any travel itiner-ary.

Art and Culture: Three modern sculptures, representing past, present, and future dominate thetown center. An ancient castle, now the town's House of Culture, hosts numerous local events,including traditional Romanian dance and music shows. They give visitors a wonderful glimpse ofsmall-town Romanian life. In addition to acting as the cultural center of the town, the castle has anintriguing legend, which any English speaking Romanian is happy to share if asked.

Entertainment: A leisurely walk through the lovely town park or a visit to the disco will complete yourexperience of Beclean.

��DiningThere are several restaurants and cafes in Beclean. At all of them, travelers can find deliciousRomanian fare and wonderful pastries.

��LodgingThe beautiful Hotel Somes is the best bet for lodging, although the more adventurous may enjoy try-ing to arrange a home-stay to experience a bit of true small town life in Romania.

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Brasov

��LocationBrasov is both a central travel hub and a wonderful tourist city located in the heart of Romania. It iswell connected through the Romanian train system, and travelers should have no trouble using thismeans of transport to get to and from Brasov to and from major cities. Bus lines and maxi-taxis arealso an option and most of them leave from outside Brasov's main train station.

��AttractionsTown Center: Brasov is a Medieval city with ample charm and much to do. In the center is a widecobblestone pedestrian avenue on which many stores are open, and ideal place for shopping. At oneend of the avenue stands the central square, Piata Sfantului. Here the History Museum is locatedin the bright yellow council house. At the far end of the square stands the Black Church, one ofRomania's most stunning works of gothic architecture. The church holds odd visiting hours, but thesign in front will have specific information. The church has an amazing pipe organ, and gives organconcerts weekly. Concert times are also posted on the signs in front of the church.

Day Trips: Many attractions that surround the city deserve a visit. Ski enthusiasts will enjoy a trip toPoiana Brasov. Busses to Poiana leave from the corner of Bulevardul Erorilor and Strada DupaZiduri. Buy your ticket in advance from one of the kiosks; round trip costs less than a dollar. In addi-tion to skiing, Poiana is a great resort area for the traveler wishing to hike or to see a splendid exam-ple of Romania's wooden churches. Busteni and Predeal are also towns that cater to skiers. WhilePredeal is known for better skiing, Busteni has fantastic hiking and is great in the summer as well asthe winter. Train is the easiest form of transport to either city. Expect the trip to Predeal to last 30minutes, and the trip to Busteni 50 minutes. Bran Castle is another day trip and especially popularwith Dracula enthusiasts. Buses leave to Bran from Brasov's Autogara 2. Fighting tourist crowdswhen trying to navigate the castle is common, but well worth it. Don't miss the village museum out-side the castle, and of course, one can hardly avoid the Dracula-saturated tourist stands directly out-side the compound. Finally, if there isn't enough time to stay a night in Sinaia, a day trip to the cityis a must. The best attraction of the town are the Peles and Pelesor castles. They are unbelievablyornate, and each one offers guided tours in English. It is a good idea to visit Sinaia's castles afterBran because the lavish Peles and Pelesor make Bran look like a quaint cabin.

��DiningBella Muzica is located on Str. G. Baritu, nr. 2, and is across the street from the Black Church onPiata Sfatului. The restaurant is a favorite among volunteers and is open for lunch and dinner. Bellaserves traditional Romanian and delicious quasi-Mexican food, and treats each customer to a com-plimentary shot of Tuica-an indispensable prelude to any good meal served in Romania. Bella is oneof the few restaurants in the country that offers quality vegetarian options on the menu; just ask foritems "fara carne." Customers also may request a music menu and select (free of charge) an albumto be played during the meal. To the right of Bella Muzica a short distance down the street isRomania's most delicious Gogosi Stand. These hot doughnuts come filled with vanilla, chocolate,or apple filling. Bistro de l'Arte, located on Piata Enescu, is only 3 minutes from the main squareand a great place to spend an afternoon reading, to come for a light dinner, or to revel late into thenight with friends. The soups are good, the frozen coffee drinks are delicious, the vin fiert (hot wine)is tasty, and the chocolate fondue is heavenly.

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��LodgingThe best bet for someone wishing to stay near the center of Brasov is Maria and Grig Bolea'sGuesthouse (0268) 311-962. Maria speaks wonderful English and will pick up guests from the trainstation. She is, however, known for being a little pushy, so make sure be direct about what you want.Maria's offers a secure place to stay, hot showers, tourist information, a washing machine, cookingfacilities, and it is only 8 minutes away from the old center. Maria will also help you to arrange othervisits and home-stays in Bran, Rasnov, Predeal, Sinaia, Sighisoara, and Poiana Brasov. A westernstyle youth hostel, Kismet Dao Villa (formerly Elvis’) is a 10 minute walk from the center, or about$1.50 cab ride from the train station at Str. Democratiei #2B, and the phone number is (0268) 514296 or (0268) 478 930. Representatives are often at the train station as well. The hostel is clean,has no curfew or checkout time, free laundry service, free drinks and internet.

In spite of Brasov's popularity with foreign tourists, the hotels in the area leave something to bedesired. If staying a short distance from the city is an option, travelers may enjoy accomodations inPoiana Brasov. The resort town has a number of hotels in much better condition than those inBrasov.

Bistrita

��LocationBistrita (German Bistritz) is situated in Bistrita-Nasaud County, northeastern Transylvania, near theBorgo pass on the way to Moldavia. There is a nightly acelerat train from Bucharest (number 1641)as well as from Bistrita to Bucharest (number 1845). There are also several daily personal (i.e. slow)trains to and from Cluj-Napoca. For the train schedule see www.cfr.ro. To go most places by trainfrom Bistrita it is necessary to go through Saratel. Tickets are available at the station or at the Agentiede Voiaj (Piata Petru Rares 7A, 0263-213938). There are also several direct daily maxi taxis (C & IComapany, Orange: 40744-693676, Fixed: 0263-213621) to and from Satu Mare, Botosani,Suceava, Targu Mures, Cluj-Napoca, Sibiu, Oradea, and Sighisoara. All trains and maxi taxis leaveand arrive at the Bistrita Nord train station

��AttractionsBistrita has several museums. The County Museum (Muzeul Judetean, str. Grigore Balan 19, 0263-230046) has exhibits on the history of the area as well as local art. The Centrul Judetean AlCreatiei Populare Bistrita-Nassaud (Bistrita-Nasaud County Center Of Folk Creation, Str. PetruRares 1, 0263-212023) is in a former hunting lodge of Nicolae Ceausescu. The Casa de CulturaGeorge Cosbuc, (str. Albert Berger 10, 0263-211691), is host to many cultural events throughout theyear and hosts classes in performing arts such as singing and dancing. The Saxon EvangelicalChurch (0263-214679) in the center of town (Piata Centrala) boasts the highest spire in Romania.In the summer, services are still conducted in German at 10:00 AM on Sundays. Due to the lack ofheat in the church, services during the other months are held across the street, but at the same timeand in the same language (German). The church also hosts some concerts during the warmermonths.

Cinema Dacia (B-dul Decebal 4, 0263-233148) is Bistrita's only movie theater, showing two differentfilms each week. Club.net (intersection of Str. Uruslui and B-dul Decebal), and Sigi.net in PiataMihai Emenescu offer internet and games for about 15,000 lei an hour. Clubnet has no time inter-vals (that is you do not have to pay in increments of ½ hour). There are also various others internetcafés scattered throughout the city. Most open at 10:00 AM.


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For dancing and other nighttime fun Discoteca Metropolis (str Mihai Emenescu 1-4, 0263-233861)is the place to go for a disco, restaurant, pool (billiards), bar, and even a bingo hall.Running through the south end of town near the river is a park, with a playground at each end, builtby the Rotary Club. On the east end of town, just east of the army base, is a dam (actually a manmade lake) with a swinging bridge and some trails. It is a nice place to walk to during summerevenings, though visitors should be prepared for mosquitoes. In the summer, the Codrisor Strandswimming pool (near the Hotel Codrisor) offers swimming between the hours of 9:00 AM and 7:00PM. The price is is about $0.50.

��DiningCastelano (Blvd-ul Republicii & Piata Petru Rares) has many good, reasonably priced entrees.Corida (Piata Centrala, 0263-230627) serves Mediterranean food. Crama Veche, adjoined to theCasa de Cultura (0263-218047) offers traditional Romanian food and drink at reasonable prices.During the summer they have pleasant seating outdoors on the terrace where they serve pizza, chick-en, and mici. Four Seasons (str Ursului 14, 0744-102356) has pizza, chicken, etc., and is near theintersection of Str. Ursului and B-dul Decebal.

For those who want fast food, Popeye (Liviu Rebraunu 36, 0263-231508) has hamburgers, hot dogs(Crenwusti), and fish and chicken sandwiches. Two fast food restaurants adorn opposite sides of theintersection of str. Urusului and B-dul Decebal. The one directly across from Four Seasons has verygood chicken and kebobs, and is recommended.

The old-fashioned types who prefer to cook for themselves will find ABC's throughout Bistrita, as wellas two grocery stores: Profi is on Piata Mihai Emenescu, and Artima is at the train station. Of coursethere are also several markets: one on the corner of B-dul Decebal & str. Ursului, one at the train sta-tion, and the Russian Market east of town on Calea Moldovei behind the Ozana gas station.

��LodgingHotel Bistrita (Piata Rares 2, 0263-231205) is centrally located. Hotel Corona de Aur (Piata Rares4, 0263-232470) is centrally located, and is the hotel where Jonathan Harker stayed overnight beforesetting out to Dracula's Castle. Hotel Codrisor (Codrisor 28, 0263-233814) and Hotel Cora(Codrisor 23, 0263-233873) lie on the south end of town (south of the river) and near the swimmingpool.

The Hotel Castle Dracula in Piatra Fântanele (0263/265192) is about an hour east of Bistrita. It isa hotel built at the same place Bram Stoker put Dracula's castle in his famous book and goes by thesame name (Dracula). The web site is www.draculaland.bn.ro/.

Cluj Napoca

��LocationCluj is located in the northwestern region of Transylvania. Though it is a considerable distance fromBucaresti, it is well connected by both train and bus. Trains also connect Cluj to other areas ofEastern Europe, including Budapest and Zagreb.

Although the main parts of Cluj are walkable, there are many buses and trams that cover the city.Buy tickets at kiosks near the stops. Two reliable taxi services are Diesel (dial 947; prefix 0264 if ona cell phone) and Rapid (948).

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��AttractionsCluj is a major city filled with art and culture. Because it isa university city, a wide array of entertainment is available,including school theatrical and musical productions and anumber of movie theaters. In the city center, buildings areplastered with announcements and show times for enter-tainment. In the central square, Piata Unirii, St. Michael'sChurch dominates the scene. The church is a beautifulexample of gothic architecture. At the southwest corner ofthe square is the Continental Hotel, houses a travel agency,a good place to find maps and recommendations aboutexploring Cluj. To the east of the square, next to the HotelMelody, is a wonderful art museum. To the west, about oneand a half blocks down Strada Memorandumului is anequally interesting Ethnographic Museum. Both muse-ums are closed on Mondays. At the Opera House, locatedon Piata Stefan Cel Mare, posters display show times andgive the opportunity for a classy evening out. An amazingbotanical garden sits southwest of the center along StradaRepublicii. For a small admission fee the gardens offer agetaway into the woods where it is easy to forget that one isbut a few steps from the city. The greenhouses are reminis-cent of a prehistoric jungle.

In the month of May, it seems Cluj is one big festival. Then, in the fall, Cluj hosts the famed UrsusBeer Festival. The Transylvania International Film Festival is around the beginning of June eachyear; information is available at www.tiff.ro. For more information about these festivals or other attrac-tions in Cluj Napoca look on www.sapteseri.ro (English and Romanian) or www.clujinfo.ro (Romanianonly).

��DiningInsomnia is a cozy coffee house with a laid back atmosphere, located on Strada Iuliu Maniu, num-ber 4. Shanghai, at 98 Strada Constantin Brancusi serves the best Chinese food in town. And iffalafel sounds tasty, Fahid on Strada Napoca, number 6, offers something other than the usualmamaliga and snitzel. For traditional Romanian food and a pleasant atmosphere, Roata onAlexandru Cuira is a good bet. And to top off a good meal, Café Amadeus Mozart at Strada Pavlovnumber 7 has great desserts, coffees, and teas.

��LodgingHotel Central Melody is located in the old center, across from St. Michael's Church. The Hotel hasrecently been remodeled inside, and while the single rooms are a little cramped, the doubles are quitecomfortable. Melody is unbeatable for location and comfort. On the other side of the square loomsthe Hotel Continental. It is slightly cheaper than the Melody, but with all the ambiance of an institu-tion. Lodging here is best for those restricted by their wallets, and there is no guarantee of a goodnight's sleep. There is one known youth hostel in Cluj, the Retro Youth Hostel (0240-264-450-452),located at Str. Potaissa 13, two blocks south of Piata Unirii on Str. Universitatii, then to the right. It isa Hostelling International (HI) member and offers beds at 10 Euro a night in shared rooms, 13 Europer bed for a triple room and private rooms.


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Deva

��LocationDeva is located in southwestern Transylvania along the 200 train line going to Budapest, Prague, andthe rest of Western Europe. It is about two hours by train from Timisoara, two hours from Sibiu, anhour-and-a-half from Alba Iulia, and only five hours from Budapest.

�� AttractionsDeva is a city with 90,000 people, and it is very easy to get around on foot because of its relativelysmall size. A Romanian citadel sits atop one of the hills in the old section of the city and has a largeHollywood-style sign reading "DEVA." From the train station and past McDonald's, the main streetleads into the center of the city. Heading toward the citadel from the center, you can see the town'scolorful architecture and the park, which is at the base of the hill. Statues depicting historical figuresand the Romanian Olympic Gymnastics Team Facility are located to the right of the park.Continuing up into the hills, to the left of the park are examples of Romanian village life. Continuingupwards one can also hike and see the view of the city from the citadel. Toward the new center is acinema, a variety of shops and grocery stores, and many good second hand shops. RetezatNational Park Headquarters are located in Deva, although the park is actually southwest of the city.

��DiningAll restaurants in Deva are created equally. Most provide traditional Romanian food and pizza.McDonalds claims a spot near the train station. Each choice is as good as the next.

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Fagaras

��LocationFagaras is located along the Olt River, about half way between Brasov and Sibiu.

��AttractionsFagaras is a small Romanian town with a wonderfully peaceful setting and beautiful views of theFagaras Mountains. From the train station, take a taxi into the center. Here you will see FagarasCastle dating to the fifteenth century. The fairytale-like castle is complete with a moat, and duringthe day visitors can tour the castle, visit the museum, and eat palate-pleasing Romanian cuisine inthe Castle's restaurant. During the communist period, the restaurant portion of the castle served asa prison for intellectuals who were a threat to Ceausescu's plan of a communist Romania. From thetown center, a hill is in sight that in summertime is a beautiful area for hiking. At the top of the hill isan old monastery as well as flowering fields perfect for picnicking. Handicrafts typical inTransylvania are available at Fundatia Culturala Negru Voda, a Romanian NGO located in the citycenter. This organization is enthusiastic about meeting foreigners and can offer a lot of informationto tourists. Massage is available at many places in town for about $3-5.00. For a night out, try D&C,located on the boulevard, or go dancing at House Club in the town center.

Day Trips: Fagaras is a wonderful starting point for day trips to different villages in the surroundingareas. At Sambata de Jos, about 15 kilometers away, there are horse stables where you can begina trail ride. About ten kilometers farther along the same road is Sambata de Sus, with a breathtak-ing monastery at the base of the mountains. Tours of the monastery are available and outside thewooden gates of the entrance are a number of vendors selling local handicrafts. This is a great base

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camp for a backpacking or camping trip in the mountains, where hiking trails and cabins abound. Fivekilometers from Fagaras is the town of Beclean (not to be confused with Beclean pe Somes in north-ern Transylvania). There, you can ride horses for $3.50 per hour, or go fishing in the lakes. Becleanhas a restaurant and a hotel, and taxis from Fagaras are more than willing to make the trip. Taxisare also willing to take travelers to Dejani, a beautiful wooden monastery surrounded by the FagarasMountains. It is about 28 kilometers away from Fagaras.

��DiningOn the main boulevard stands the Boulevard Crama. There, the waiters wear traditional Romanianclothes and serve Romanian food. It is also a great place for an evening drink.

There are not a great number of bars in the town. D&C is an adequate night spot located on the mainboulevard, one block from the town center. For cheese with your wine, the House Club in the towncenter offers the best in tacky a small town disco . It is the epitome of smokey bars and bad Euromusic on the dance floor. Try it for the true experience of the small-town Romania night out.

��LodgingThere are two hotels in Fagaras. Hotel Flora is a bed and breakfast-style hotel charging about$10.00 for a single. Hotel Montana is located near the train station and slightly more expensive thanFlora.

Ileanda

��LocationIleanda is located in Salaj county in the northwest of the country. It is 24 kilometers from Dej, 30 kilo-meters from Baia Mare, and 100 kilometers from Cluj. It sits on the major train line between Cluj andBaia Mare, and there are many trains that stop there daily. To travel from Ileanda to any of the sur-rounding 13 villages, hitchhiking is the best option. There is a bus between some of the villages run-ning twice a day Monday through Saturday.

��AttractionsThe village of Ileanda and its surrounding 13 villages are a good stop for any traveler wanting to expe-rience the rural village life in Romania. The group of villages has a total of 2,674 inhabitants and cov-ers 87 square kilometers. The terrain around the villages is hilly and the Somes River winds throughthe valley; it is a very picturesque region. The primary occupations are the cultivation of fruit and theraising of livestock.

The Center for Local Development of Ileanda has created a list of 17 hikes in the region, whichtake the hiker through caves, chestnut forests, and springs. To attain the list of the hikes, contact theAGAPIS Foundation at [email protected] or (0722)-889-951. Local English speaking guidescan be found in town to accompany visitors. There are seven traditional wooden churches sur-rounding Ileanda. One is located in Ileanda and is only a ten-minute walk from the train station. Thevillage of Bizusa, 2 kilometers from Ileanda, is known for its natural springs.

��DiningIleanda has a number of grocery stores and pastry shops, but only one restaurant and one pub. Therestaurant serves Romanian cuisine.


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��LodgingThere are currently seven households in Ileanda that are certified by the Ministry of Tourism. Thesepensions have a total of 24 beds. There are other unauthorized pensions as well. The average priceper person per night is $14.00, and this includes all meals. Some pension owners have cars and candrive guests to different destinations for a small fee. For more information contact the AGAPISFoundation (see above)

Miclosoara

Not all Counts in Romania are fictional villains (i.e. Dracula). Miclosoara is not a place the westerntraveler is likely to find in guide books. It is a village of only 250 people about 85 kilometers north ofBrasov. It is the kind of place with more cows, horses, and oxen than people. Yet despite its seem-ing obscurity, the village deserves a visit from any sojourner who seeks truly distinctive destinationsand experiences. The attraction to see in Miclosoara is an ancient Transylvanian castle owned bya living Count who has made it his life's work to restore his family's lands, properties, and legacy.

Inhabited exclusively by Hungarians, Miclosoara dates back to at least the 13th century. It is a farm-ing community with plenty of cattle and chicken. But there are no tractors, just horse drawn imple-ments and wagons. The Count's family is the Kalnoky family one of the oldest in Transylvania.Before the rise of Communism, the Kalnoky's owned large sections of land in Miclosoara as well asin villages to the north and south. The castles currently being restored were built in the 1690's. Allof this land and the two castles in which the family resided were confiscated by the communists 50years ago.

When their properties were taken, the Kalnoky family had to leave everything they owned and leaveRomania within 24 hours. They dispersed to the west, first to Germany where the Count's grand-mother ran a guest house in Nuremberg in 1946, then to the United States, where the present Countwas born. His father moved the family back to Germany in the 1970's and became head of IBM forEastern Europe. The Count grew up mostly in France, where his sister still lives; his brother nowlives in Berlin.

Fascinated by his roots, the Count visited Transylvania for the first time in 1987 and visited what hecould of his family's prior holdings (centuries of documentation were available to him). He vowed tomove back when possible. Two years later, after the Revolution and fall of communism, he and hiswife moved to Bucharest, where he ran a pharmaceutical company for several years. Meanwhile henavigated through the tortuous waters of reclaiming his family holdings in Transylvania. He decidedto dedicate himself to restoring the properties to their original 17th century condition, a task that heexpects will take his lifetime, and perhaps some of his three young sons' also.

The restoration is compelling as a cultural project. Much of the house was of Renaissance design, lit-erally covered over by the communists. The Count has hired archeologists and art historians as wellas architects to review every centimeter of the building; he has family archives that describe the prop-erty as it was in the 17th century. To an untutored eye, he is proceeding as would a professionalrestorer (by training he is a veterinarian!).

To help finance the restoration, the Count decided he would restore some old houses and start anup-scale inn. The inn is arguably one of the most charming in the world and resembles a great NewEngland inn with an excellent dining room where guests can take three meals a day. This is where

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any traveler must stay, and though the price is high by Romanian standards (about $75 per night,three meals and wine included), it is well worth the money and includes three meals a day with wineincluded.

The Count himself lives at another house he restored in a nearby village, beside the family's othercastle. His full name is Tibor Kalnoky, and he is an extremely cultivated, interesting man, who speaksseveral languages fluently (including English). He often takes guest through the castles himself andtreats them royally. To make arrangements contact the Count by fax at (0267)374-602 or e-mail [email protected].

Miercurea Ciuc

��LocationCiuc is located about 2 hours north of Brasov by train in the Carpathian/Ciuc Basin. While Ciuc lieson one of the country's main train lines and is easy to get to from Brasov, it is more difficult to go fromCiuc to Brasov. Most trains traveling south pass through Ciuc in the evening or during the night.There is a slow bus traveling from Ciuc to Brasov at about 11:45 am, and maxi-taxis travel to TarguMures stopping at destinations such as Odorheiu Secuiesc and Sovata.

Getting around: Most taxis are in Ciuc are reliable. The three best places to find taxis are in front ofthe train station, on the main square (Piata Libertatii), and beside the smaller square next to theTulipan shopping center.

��AttractionsMiercurea Ciuc, Ciuc for short, is a small butup-and-coming city in eastern Transylvania.Known throughout Romania as the coldestcity in the country due to its annual averagetemperature of six degrees Celsius and its150 frosty days each year, Ciuc is betteravoided in the winter when temperatures candip down to -35 Celsius. In the spring andsummer, however, the city comes alive withthe Pentecostal Pilgrimage to SumuleuMonastery and frequent spring and sum-mer festivals overflowing with the local CiucBeer, talented folk dancers, and great localbands.

Ciuc has a rich history, and although it passed hands several times between Romania and Hungarysince the 1400s, the city remains about 90% Hungarian today and is a center for Hungarian Szekler(Szekely) culture. Here, the pastoral Hungarian culture has been preserved to such an extent thateven Hungarian tourists continue to travel to Harghita County to witness this traditional lifestyle.

Ciuc offers easy scenic hikes from the city's center into the nearby hills. A panoramic view of theCiuc Basin and the surrounding Harghita Mountains is a one of two hour walk going from the city'scenter to the top of Sumuleu Mare, the larger of the two small "mountains" immediately next to thecity. Along the way, is the Sumuleu Monastery, a small mineral spring, and a couple of smallerchurches. Before the tree-line is the amphitheater, which hosts the Pentecostal mass for hundreds


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of thousands of pilgrims at the end of May. The metal lookout tower on the top of Sumuleu Mare isa popular destination for local youths, who will amaze visitors by climbing the frightening structurefrom its outside. On the way down the hill, there is split off to the right of the amphitheater that goesthrough suburbs Ciobateni and Sumuleu which display real village culture of the area, includingsome traditional Szekler gates. For hikes farther into the Harghita range it is best to keep in mindthat this is one of the few places in Europe where bears, boars, and lynxes continue to roam.

Those more interested in the shorter walks of the city tour, the 17th century Miko Citadel across fromthe yellow baroque City Hall, at Str. Gh. Doja 2 is a popular destination. Inside the citadel is a muse-um of traditional Szekler life. Outside is an open-air museum of traditional houses and gates, andthe local prison is across the remains of the citadel's moat. During the winter, Ciuc is a base for ski-ing in the Harghita Mountains.

Across from the City Hall sits Ciuc's most picturesque Romanian Orthodox Church. Two newlyrebuilt Catholic churches stand at either end of the main boulevard, and the county government build-ing stands between the two.

A good location for clubbing is Ami. It is slightly dirtier than other discos, but charges no cover andis popular with university youth. A truer disco feel is a short taxi ride over the train tracks to ClubFlashdance, a two-level club that bustles on the weekends. Across the street is Ciuc's Club 69, apopular strip club.

��DiningTransylvania Rozmarin, at the corner of Str. Gal Sandor and Str. Petoffi, serves excellent tradition-al food at a low price. Around the corner stands Renegade Pizza. Pizza Plusz, on Piata Majlath,overlooking the park, serves pizza with mozzarella cheese (a novelty in Romania). New York Pizzaand the deli next door serve reasonably priced fast food. In the summer New York Pizza is a greatlocation for people-watching as well, as it is located on a pedestrian street. About 10 minutes fromthe center is the impressive Gosser Bar, offering incredible bread bowl soups and good pizza.Traditional food can be found at Hotel Fenyo's restaurant with slightly higher prices.

Ciuc also has a number of bars and cafés. Saloon Rodeo is the newest, largest and most popularoption. It boasts a Western interior, live music, and the best pool table in town. Across the streetstands Tiljos, Hungarian for "forbidden," where you can get your fill of Ciuc beer. Around the corneris the bohemian Bahia Blue Tea House, which caters to a younger crowd. Here there is a large col-lection of tea, as well as beer, coffee, and other drinks. All bars serve the Hungarian national drink,Unicum, a more expensive concoction of liquid evil, with hints of anis. Its slightly friendlier and lessexpensive cousin, Hubertus, suffices for people with bold taste buds.

��LodgingAccommodations are surprisingly upscale in Ciuc. There are two nice three-star hotels; the HotelFenyo (0266- 311-493) near the citadel, and the new Hotel Park (0266-313-833,[email protected]), on Str. Szek about 2 kilometers north of the city center. Casa Lazarus, nearthe Culture House on Str. Petoffi, is the only bargain option. The clean rooms are newly renovated,and come only in quads. The set price is about $6 per person, breakfast not included. For reserva-tions call 0722-953-531. The manager speaks only Hungarian, German, and Romanian.

19Transylvania

Ordorheiu Secuiesc

��LocationOrdorheiu Secuiesc is located west of Miercurea Ciuc and just north of Sighisoara. Coming toOdorheiu Secuiesc from Ciuc is easiest by bus or maxi taxi. If coming from Sighisoara, a personaltrain or a taxi (significantly more expensive) is the best option.

��AttractionsOrdorheiu Secuiesc is a picturesque town of 35,000 located in the heart of Transylvania. With a 97%Szekely Hungarian population, the city differs greatly from others in Romania. Ordorheiu Secuieschas survived Romania's turbulent history relatively intact; the city has spent a great deal of time andmoney preserving their historical buildings, and it shows. Many beautiful buildings, such as theTamasi Aron Gimnazium, are older than the United States, but still in wonderful condition.Ordorheiu Secuiesc has a booming economy and the money within the community has helped to cre-ate a clean, well-maintained town.

The area is perfect for hiking. Travelers can hike to the top of the surrounding hills and get a won-derful view of the city. Volcano Rock, past the military base, landed in the town centuries ago fromthe now-dormant Harghita Mountain, and is a good hiking destination. Szejke Spa can help to relievethe stress of any journey. The spa's blind masseuse is famous because he uses his sense of touchto erase his clients' aches and tension.

There are three major fairs that occur annually in the town. The Craftsmen's Market in June bringslocal artisans. The Leisure and Tourism Fair during the first week of May features businesses relat-ed to tourism from all over Romania and Eastern Europe. Finally, the trade-show style October Fairprovides a forum for businesses in the area to advertise their services.

The nearby Harghita Spa has ski slopes and lifts for those who enjoy winter sports; it offers walkingand cycling tours to summer travelers. In town, the Tea Pub at the Youth Foundation Forum ofOrdorheiu has an English discussion class that meets Tuesdays at 7:00 pm. Stop by to conversewith local youth, and you will be served with a free cup of tea. If seeking entertainment outside ofOrdorheiu Secuiesc, the local visitor's bureau TourInfo (www.tourinfo.ro) is located in the center of thecity. They provide information on tours to nearby villages, such as Corund, to see local artisans atwork.

��DiningPethos Etterem on Rakoczi Street, Hotel Tarnava Etterem, located in the hotel on Primariei Street,and Pizza 21 on Bethlen Gabor Street are all highly recommended. Each has a pleasant atmos-phere. The staff at Pethos has an English language menu and is very good at understanding handgestures. The fried trout, grilled chicken, and the chef's special are the preferred dishes at Pethos.The Hotel Tarnava Etterem has a serving staff that speaks English, and serves a delicious ChickenPaprika with a side dish of polenta. Pizza 21 has some the excellent pizza and pasta dishes at a verylow price.

��LodgingThe Hotel Tarnava is the city's only hotel. It is located in the center, and although it has three starsand is newly renovated, it is still moderately priced. The hotel offers more amenities than mostRomanian hotels, including non-smoking rooms, sauna, Jacuzzi, Internet service, fitness room, andlaundry services. Their website (www.kukullo.ro) shows prices and lets travelers make reservations.


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Sebes

��LocationSebes is a lovely town of about 35,000 people and is fifty miles southwest of Cluj Napoca. There isno train line in Sebes, but buses and maxi taxis travel through the city regularly between Cluj andAlba Iulia. Dacos bus line is the most frequent; schedules are available at www.dacos.com.ro andthe contact numbers are (0264) 406-631 and (0744) 551-902

��AttractionsOriginally founded as Mulbach by German-Saxons, Sebes is proud to be "one of the seven-Germancities" of Romania. Around town one will notice that nearly every street sign is accompanied with itsGerman equivalent. Over the past four years Sebes has dramatically renovated its old town (centru)by narrowing the main street to increase pedestrian traffic and by landscaping its city hall park. Whilein Sebes, a visit to the enormous Evangelical church is a must; it is open daily between 12:00 and3:00. Inside the church is a fascinating timeline displaying how the church looked in the 1200's, thenin the centuries thereafter until its final completion only 100 years ago. In front of the church is theold town. A 600-year-old medieval wall surrounds it. Adventurous types may walk around theremains of the wall, which leads to the Turnul Studentilor and Turnul Octogonal (Students' Tower,Octagon Tower).

��DiningAlthough Sebes is a wealthy town, it has no restaurants excepting a few kiosks and kebab stands.There is, however, the supermarket Ecostar, which has everything from peanut butter to Parmesancheese, both rarities in Romania. Five kilometers south of Sebes is the German village Petresti,which has two surprisingly good restaurants. Casa Simi serves Romanian-style cuisine and has anice garden terrace open in the summer, and Zorba Grecul has a warm atmosphere and excellentGreek food.

��LodgingThere are no places to stay on a volunteer's budget, but there is a lovely ranch-style hotel about 5km west of Sebes (towards Deva) called Lutch 2000. Though exotic and full of emu's, it is best avoid-ed Saturday nights in the summer when the Manele music from wedding parties will serenade youuntil the break of dawn.

Sibiu

��LocationSibiu is located in the center of Romania, between Timisoara and Brasov. Although Sibiu is a majorRomanian city, it is not particularly well connected to Bucuresti by train. It is, however, connected toCluj and Oradea by the brand new "Blue Arrow." Extensive bus and maxi taxi services are availableto and from the city. Most busses leave from the autogara, which is located beside the main train sta-tion.

Sibiu is a wonderful city for the pedestrian. If the weather is good, it is pleasant to walk through thestreets and catch an eyeful of the German architecture, Many streets around Piata Mare are closedto traffic. If however, you want a taxi, reliable ones are Pronto, Comis (phone number 942; 0269 pre-fix on cell phones), and Negoiu (953). Avoid Cinemar taxis at all costs, they will charge 50,000 lei/km,almost ten times as much as others.

21Transylvania

��AttractionsSibiu is a beautiful city located near the Fagaras Mountains. The city has a great deal of Germaninfluence, evident in the architecture found in the city center, and offers a wide selection of art andculture. The Museum of Traditional Civilization, a short taxi-ride from the center, is a beautiful out-door park and ethnographic museum, well worth a visit. The Sibiu Philharmonic performs everyThursday night at 7:00 pm at the Cercul Militar. During the summer, the Evangelical Church holdsorgan concerts on Wednesdays at 6:00 pm.

One of the best forms of distraction in Sibiu is simply wandering. The old center's pedestrian streetstretches from Hotel Boulevard to Piata Mare, and is a great place for shopping and dining. In thesummer, restaurants set up small beer gardens on the street, allowing passers-by to stop and enjoya cold drink outside. Climbing the Clock Tower at the far corner of Piata Mare is a must. While itdoesn't appear very tall, the panoramic views offered by the tower are amazing. Off the main pedes-trian drag are many historical buildings, quaint cobblestone streets, beautiful old churches, and inter-esting shops.

There are several wonderful festivals inSibiu. The city hosts the Medieval Festivalin mid-late August, and the PotteryFestival in early September. The city website http://www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm hasmore specific information. Sibiu is also theproud host of the ASTRA Film Festival,which shows a variety of documentary andanthropological films biennially, in Octoberon even numbered years; information isavailable at www.astrafilm.ro.

For standard entertainment, Sibiu offersthree cinemas. The newest and best isCinema Arta, about a 15 minute walk from town center. Cinema Tineretului on Str. AlexandruOdobescu near Piata Mica is interesting because patrons watch films from sofas and armchairsinstead of stardard movie theater seats. Cinema Pacea is on the main street Str. Nicolae Balcescu,but is low quality somewhat dirty.

��DiningLa Dolce Vita on Strada Luptei requires a cab ride, but the authentic Italian food deserves the effort.Michelangelo's also serves good Italian and has a nice atmosphere, but unfortunately tends tobecome very smoky in the evenings. Pizzeria Unicum on the main pedestrian boulevard servesamazing thin crust pizza with real tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese at a cheap price. SibiuVechi is the best bet for traditional Romanian dining experience. Romanian dishes are served bywaiters in traditional garb among traditional Romanian décor while Romanian music plays in thebackground. For the less courageous, McDonald's is located on the edge of town and requires acab ride. The New Yorker Grill, located just southwest of the old center, serves great American food.For a bit more than you'd pay in other restaurants, you can get a peppercorn stake, delicious grilledveggies, pastas, and pizzas. Its banana split is incredible for dessert.

Drinks and desserts are the order of the day at one of Sibiu's many bars and cafes. Perla, on PiataMare, and Cofetaria Hotel Bulevard have good espresso and tasty desserts. Art Café, on Strada


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Filarmonicii, is usually crowded and very smokey, but a good bet if visiting the Orchestra Hall, locat-ed directly above. Music Planet offers karaoke gurus a chance to belt out a song on Wednesdayand Thursday nights. It is located on Strade G. Magheru, on the way to the Gara from Piata Mare.La Turn, conveniently located on Piata Mare, is pricey, but has a comfortable English pub atmos-phere, a fabulous outdoor terrace (though it can be difficult to get the attention of the server), andGuinness on tap. For more of a club-scene, Club Chill-Out is located off Piata Mare in an under-ground cellar. Ciao, the restaurant located above Club Chill-Out, serves amazing Italian food; followthe signs advertising pizza to the side entrance.

��LodgingSibiu has no shortage of hotels. Highly recommended, if you can afford it, is the Hotel ImparatulorRomanilor. It is located on Str. Balcescu, a pedestrian street in historic downtown only seconds fromPiata Mare. The building is truly picturesque, and breakfast is included in the price. For a moreAmerican-style hotel, and also expensive, is the Hotel Continental. Clean, recently remodeledrooms, and a great reception lounge and restaurant make this a very comfortable place to stay.Slightly dreary, but much cheaper, is the Hotel Boulevard. The Boulevard is at the end of the mainpedestrian boulevard in the old center, and has a friendly reception staff. The cheapest option is togo with one of the many pensions located throughout Sibiu. One good example of these is the HotelPodul Minciunilor (0269 217 259); it is about five minutes walking from Piata Mica, down str. Ocneiand to the left on Str. Azilului, nr. 1. The official Sibiu website, http://www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm, haslists of these bed-and-breakfast style inns among other useful information.

Sighisoara

��LocationSighisoara is located west of Brasov, and is well connected by rail. Trains traveling on the 300 linebetween Bucuresti and Oradea stop in Sighisoara, making it easy to travel to and from major citiessuch as Ploiesti, Brasov, and Cluj.

��AttractionsSighisoara is one of the best-preserved walledcities in Romania. The city is pleasing to the eyeand a must for travelers who want a vision of howRomania looked before the Communist era. Atthe end of July, Sighisoara holds an enormousMedieval Festival that attracts visitors from allover Romania and foreign travelers as well.Spring and summer are the best times to visitwhen the city hosts a number of events popularwith tourists. During this time, there is a greatdeal of activity in the main square such as artisanfairs, traditional dance exhibitions, and local the-ater. Sighisoara is huge draw for Dracula-hunters because it was here that the infamousVlad Tepes, "Vlad the Impaler," was born. VladTepes’ birthplace is just a few steps away fromthe clock tower and is now a restaurant. The tinyArms Room, located off the main square beside the clock tower, is a single dungeon-like room withphotos and explanations (Romanian and English) of various weapons. The clock tower, also off the

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main square, offers terrific views to anyone prepared to climb to the top.

At first glance, Sighisoara seems like a city that can be seen in a single day: many tourists see the \well known sights and are ready to move on. Travelers who are willing to dig a little deeper, though,would be well advised to spend a few days in Sighisoara. In addition to the typical tourist destina-tions, surprises wait around each corner if one only explores a little. Walks through the narrow alleys,beautiful rolling hills, and along the walls of the city reward participants with serene scenery and inter-esting landmarks. Near the old center, the trip to the Church on the Hill is a nice shaded retreat,and the German Cemetery just next to the church is also an interesting stop. Outside the city, a wan-der through provincial agricultural villages, or a climb into hills where flocks of sheep graze can bean interesting way to spend a morning or an afternoon.

��DiningThere are a number of places to dine in the old center. Vlad Tepes's birthplace houses theRestaurantul Cetatea, which has unbeatable ambiance and moderately priced Romanian food.Pizzeria Perla, on Piata Oberth, has the best pizza in Sighisoara. Unless Pizzeria Perla is toopacked, skip P&I, the café located next door. While their desserts look delicious, they taste terrible,and the wait staff is slow and unaccommodating. Hermes Fast Food, located on the main street,has cheap burgers and sandwiches that will fill you up. The city market is on Tarnavei, which is acontinuation of Libertatii, offers fresh vegetables and watermelon in the summer. Gogosi stands sur-rounding the market sell excellent warm, chocolate-filled doughnuts.

��LodgingPetronela and Marinela Kula's Family Bed and Breakfast is on 40 Tamplarilor Street, a great loca-tion in old town Sighisoara. The family is very hospitable and Petronela speaks very good English.In addition to providing private rooms, bathrooms, laundry, guest lounge, and a well-equippedkitchen, the family will also offers home cooked meals (for an extra fee), transportation to and fromthe train, and will arrange tours around local villages. The Bed and Breakfast may be reached at(0265) 777 907 or (0724) 596 312. Another good option is the Hotel Poenita. Located a bit outsidethe city, this small inn offers beautiful rooms at moderate prices, which include made-to-order break-fasts and the use of a small swimming pool. The pub-like restaurant in the hotel serves excellentRomanian food at slightly above-average prices. If staying at the Poenita, expect a Romanian wake-up call at sunrise when shepherds and goat herders lead the flocks through the street on their wayto graze in the hills.

Sinaia

��LocationSinaia is located a short distance south of Brasov, in the Prahova Valley. Maxi taxis leave fromPloiesti every 30 minutes from in front of Gara de Vest to Sinaia. From Brasov, maxi taxis leave forSinaia every 30-60 minutes in front of the train station. Maxi taxis from Sinaia to Ploiesti and Brasovleave every 30 minutes from the train station. Maxi taxis to Bucuresti and Targu Mures leave everyhour. Most trains along the line from Bucuresti to Brasov stop at Sinaia, as well.

��AttractionsSinaia has a beautiful location in the Prahova Valley and is a hot tourist spot, especially in the sum-mer. There are great hiking trails for those who enjoy the outdoors. The hike to Poiana Stanii offersviews of Sinaia and Busteni from the Franz Josef lookout point. Follow the white signs with the bluestripes. Visitors to Sinaia should not miss the Peles and Pelesor Castles. More like palaces than


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castles, the two structures are immaculately preserved and maintained and rival any western edificein grandeur. Guided tours are given in a number of languages, including English, and are mandato-ry for those who wish to see the inside of the two buildings. Travelers who are turned off by the ideaof guided tours have nothing to fear; the guides are extremely friendly and will give as much or as lit-tle information as is desired.

People shopping for souvenirs won't have any trouble finding them in Sinaia. Magazin Carpati onthe main boulevard has a small selection of high quality, high priced souvenirs. A better option is tovisit the kiosks on the path to Peles Castle. Here are very nice Romanian souvenirs such as woolsweaters, tablecloths, paintings, carvings, and lace work, but expect to battle your way through theaggressive sales people. The best bet for souvenirs are the stalls along the road to Brasov, just out-side of the city. Here, you will find the largest variety of souvenirs at slightly better prices.

��DiningAcross from Magazin Carpati on Blvd. Carol I stands Restaurant Bucegi, serving excellent tradition-al Romanian food and wild game. Bucegi is not recommended for vegetarians. Taverna Sarbului,accessible only by taxi, serves Serbian food and has the reputation of being the best restaurant inthe Prahova Valley. Casa Noastra on Blvd. Republicii has a good grocery store upstairs and arestaurant serving traditional Romanian food downstairs. Irish House is a good and medium pricedrestaurant that offers an amusing blend of previously dissimilar cultures; visitors should not be sur-prised when they find a German party eating Bulgarian food and drinking Irish beer while Americancountry/western music plays in the background.

Sinia has a pretty good selection of bars and cafes. Hotel International Cofetarie has the best pas-tries and hot chocolate in the city and also houses has an Internet café. Space Café, next to BlueAngel Disco on the main thoroughfare is a traditional bar and also has a selection of specialty cof-fees and teas. Across the street is Old Nick Pub, a good place to enjoy mixed drinks in a chill atmos-phere. Expect a DJ on Saturday nights.

��LodgingThere are a number of hotels centrally located in Sinaia. The Hotel Palace is for those with deeppockets, but is a beautiful hotel in a central location. Less glamorous and less expensive is the HotelCaraiman, also near the center on the main boulevard, directly up the stairs from the train station. Afair walk from the center, but highly recommended, is the Hotel Economat (0244-311-151). Locatedin the Peles compound, the hotel is a number of buildings that were once used to house the royalguests. When making a reservation, ask for a room in Floare de Colt, with a window facing the rear,and you will be able to enjoy a stunning view of Peles lit up at night. This view will make you smilealmost as much as the next-to-nothing price. Then, there are always independents trying to rent outextra rooms to travelers; they will solicit people at the train station and can be haggled into bargainprices. Be careful and use good sense when dealing with such people.

Targu Mures

��LocationTargu Mures is in central Transylvania and not particularly well connected by road or rail, Targu Muresis difficult to get to from some locations, but worth the effort. Maxi taxis are available from Brasov,and a handful of direct trains come from Bucuresti and Timisoara.

25Transylvania

��AttractionsTargu Mures is a historically significant town and has an interesting ethnic mix. Travelers are as like-ly to hear Hungarian as Romanian, and the population is generally described as half Hungarian, halfRomanian. But there is a significant Roma (Gypsy) population comprised of various sects. Walkingalong the main street, the Gabor Gypsy men are distinguishable by their black, wide-brim hats, andthe women by their colorful skirts.

The architecture of Targu Mures is beautiful, and the city is packed with museums. In the old centerof the city, on Piata Trandafirilor is the Romanian Orthodox Church. Inside are some breathtakingfrescoes. Tucked away just east of the church is the Citadel. Beyond the walled park and in a parkthat is both beautiful and serene is the Citadel Museum. Shopping along Piata Trandafirilor and thesurrounding area offers a number of products that are difficult to find in other Romanian cities.

��DiningTargu Mures is full of good restaurants. Str. Bolyai Farkas, a cobblestone street leading south fromthe city center has a great array of restaurants and cafes. Pizza Mix is just north of theIntercontinental Hotel and serves very good pizza and beer. Local musicians often play in theevenings. Pizza Mix also delivers (0265-219-613). Venezia, behind Biserica Mare, serves Italianfood and pizza and has English menus that will prevent the unaware from ordering the $2.00 BeefTesticle entrée. On Strada Petofi Sandor Rex Restaurant serves traditional, tasty meals. Expectextremely attentive service, slightly higher than average prices, and waiters who will give their opin-ion on what was ordered, whether asked or not. Hotel Villa Helvita near the Citadel on Boros Tamas,serves very good Italian food, including pasta, fish, chicken, beef, and pork dishes. There is a fullmenu with good wines and desserts. Kebab on Strada Bolyai Farkas has patrons step up to thecounter for coffee and drinks, or they go through the archway to find a buffet-style restaurant. Salads,snitel, chicken fingers, and other local fare are available at prices determined by weight. Up the threesteps is an open airy back room where it is a pleasure to sit near the ivy-covered tree. Next doorChina Blue serves authentic Chinese food. The restaurant has a friendly wait staff and a great selec-tion of Chinese dishes. When ordering beer, asking for "bere rece" is important lest it be servedwarm.

In the Tudor section, the newly opened Pizza Giovanni serves good pizza. Around the corner is theelegant but reasonably priced Rosengarden, whose elaborate front staircase makes it easily identi-fiable. On the way out, is a red shack next door called "Kurtos Cozonac," an open-air bakery wherethey make traditional Hungarian "cozonac" (sweet bread) sprinkled with sugar, coconut, or poppyseeds.

For a café or bar, Tutun on Bolyai Farkas is a good choice, and also a likely location in which to meetPeace Corps Volunteers. The Eiffel, across the street, has a nice upstairs seating area with windowseats overooking the street. Farther up the street is The Press Club, a trendy hang out for the in-crowd. The Tuborg draft comes in a four-inch diameter, one-meter tall container, so it is wise torequest enough glasses for friends. Smigerie just beyond the Press club is a good stop for a warmbagel-like "covrigi" (pretzel) with sesame seed, poppy seed, or salt topping.

��Lodging


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Zalau

��LocationZalau sits in the northwest corner of Transylvania, about 80 kilometers northwest of Cluj. Zalau is notwell connected by train, so the easiest way to get from Zalau to other cities is to take a bus or to trav-el to Cluj (either on bus or by hitchhiking) and then continue the journey from there.

��AttractionsZalau is a small city in the hills that seems to attract a lot of foreign interest. Investments fromHungary, Italy, and Holland have helped to contribute to the economy in recent years, which is visi-ble from the renovations being made in the city and from the new, enormous houses in constructionoutside the city center. Zalau has several small museums that are worth visiting. In the summertime,hiking and camping are popular on the nearby Meses Mountain (actually a hill). Legend has it thatthere is a waterfall on the hill, although few locals will actually be able to tell you how to reach it.

In Moigrad, a nearby village, stand the ruins of the Roman Porolissum, the gateway to the RomanDacia that was built around 100 AD. Busses to Moigrad take passengers from the stop across thestreet from Zalau's General School 4. The driver knows the schedule for busses returning to Zalau,so asking him will ensure the traveler does not become stranded in tiny Moigrad without a place tostay. After hiking the hill up to the ruins, the custom is to wander until the shepherd who cares for thearea comes. American visitors who speak Romanian may wish to play dumb or they will risk learn-ing more than they ever wanted to know about the Roman ruins.

��DiningZalau is home to a wealth of uninspiring restaurants. Restaurant Unicum , Silvania Restaurant,and Alba ca Zapada, all located in the center within a block of the City Hall, all serve averageRomanian food at average prices. Restaurant Elena, above the park, is slightly above average. Abetter bet for Romanian food is Trifan, also called Restaurant Ursus, located on the edge of townon the main road to Cluj. The food is good, and relatively inexpensive, but the real reason to go tothis restaurant is to enjoy the quiet outdoor terrace with a spectacular view over the Meses Mountain.Hanul Drumetilor next door also has a great terrace with the same view, but expect to pay abouttwice as much for the same quality food. Zalau has two good pizza joints. Pizzeria Champion, ashort way south of the City Hall (towards Cluj) on Gh. Doja, serves delicious deep-dish pizza, a rarefind in Romania. Gulliver's Pizza, about 15 minutes north of the center on the main boulevard, hasgreat thin-crust pizza and a decent outdoor terrace in the summer. Be sure the waiter writes downyour order, or risk getting a pizza that you didn’t ask for. In the center is Imbiss, a fast-food placethat is open 24 hours a day, for all the 4:00 A.M. pizza and sandwich demands. Along the main boule-vard, there are a number of placinta (fried dough) kiosks. They come filled with cheese, chocolate,apple, jam, or pickled cabbage, and with as little nutritional value as they carry, you know they're deli-cious.

There is a much better choice of bars and cafes in the summer than you will at any other time. Theonly two decent bars in Zalau are Old Jack's Pub and Diesel, both located in the center; they arealways packed, and it's impossible to get a table in the evening without making a reservation. Whenthe weather is nice, a number of excellent terraces open up. The Green Club terrace, located out-side of the Casa de Cultura, serves not only beer, but also delicious iced coffee drinks and ice cream.Boema, located nearer the center, is a much larger terrace with a nicer atmosphere and slightlycheaper prices. Boema serves beer, fast food, and mici. There are also two discos, The Green Cluband Millennium, the latter catering mostly to the under 18 crowd.

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��LodgingZalau has two hotels, both located in the center. The Hotel Porolissum and the Hotel Meses arecomparable in price, but the new renovations on the Hotel Meses make this a better bet for travelers.The Hotel Elena, above the park in the center, is new and clean. There are also a number of smallpensions on the southern edge of town. They accept walk-ins, and information is available at oneof the tourist bureaus located in the center.


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MoldaviaMoldavia occupies the east-northeastern region of Romania, bordered on the west by the CarpathianMountains and on the east by the Republic of Moldova. The region has as much distinctive folkloreand as turbulent a history as its neighbor to the west, Transylvania. Orthodox monasteries are scat-tered throughout the region among abundant natural beauty: forests, rolling hills, and natural springs.Moldavia is also home of a proud artistic heratage, having given birth to notable names such asEminescu, Iorga, Enescu, and Lucian.

Botosani

��LocationBotosani is located in the northern part of the region. Intercity buses serve the city with destinationsthroughout Moldavia and beyond. Trains shuttle between Botosani and Veresti, where they connectwith northbound trains to Chisnau, westbound trains through Suceava, and southbound trains to Iasiand Bucaresti.

��AttractionsBotosani is a clean, friendly, and safe place to visit. The city and surrounding area are home toRomania’s most beloved writers and artists: Mihai Eminescu, Nicolae Iorga, George Enescu andStefan Lucian. Although his actual birthplace no longer exists, the church where Eminescu waschristened still does. Biserica Adormiera Maicii Domnului Uspenia is located in the old section ofthe city and contains Eminescu’s christening font, a large stature of the national poet, and a com-memorative plaque. Nicolae Iorga’s birthplace and boyhood home is now a museum located onthe Nicolae Iorga Street. The museum contains photos and manuscripts of Iorga’s writing. GeorgeEnescu was born in Liveni, in Botosani County; his birthplace has been preserved as a museum.

Botosani has a number of other attractions. There are two notable churches: Biserica Sf. NicolaePopauti, built in 1496, and Biserica Sf. Gheorge, built in 1551. Both are historically significant toSouthern Bucovina. Botosani has several attractive parks, the largest of which has a large pond andgazebos and is located on Mihai Eminescu Boulevard. There is a pedestrian mall along UniriiStreet, with fountains and flowers in the spring and summer. On weekends, craft stalls sell locallymade items at reasonable prices. The Ethnographic Museum has interesting displays of Moldaviancostumes, wall hangings, and furniture. The Historical Museum, at the south end of the mall, hasa panorama of the history of the area from pre-Roman times to the present.

Teatrul (Theater) Mihai Eminescu is located at the north end of the mall. Filarmonica (philhar-monic) Botosani is a good choice for evening entertainment. Classical programs are performedFriday evenings from September through June.

Travelers may enjoy a day trip to Ipotesti, a short maxi-taxi ride from central Botosani. Here isEminescu’s boyhood home and the lake that was the inspiration for much of his poetry. A muse-um displaying some of Eminescu’s work is also located here.

��DiningDining options in Botosani are restricted to Romanian food and pizza. For Romanian, Tex Club onStrada Primaverii and the dining room of the Hotel Unirea are adequate. Both restaurants are mod-erately priced, and in the summer Hotel Unirea has a nice outdoor garden area.

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��LodgingThere are two hotels Botosani with two-stars each, both of which provide clean, comfortable roomsat moderate prices. The Rapsodia on Str. Cuza Voda has a number of recently remodeled rooms.Hotel Unirea is currently being restored; it has a lavish adjoining building and in 2002 opened a pub-lic swimming pool with entry fee of 125.000 lei per day.

Braila

��LocationBraila is located in the south of the region, about 25 kilometers south of Galati. The city has well light-ed and very clean streets and is easy to navigate.

��AttractionsBraila is hardly the jumpin’est town in the country but there is a historic district and also some unex-pectedly nice museums and historical buildings. Maria Filotti on Piata Traian is a beautiful dramat-ic theater. Ceaususcu’s yacht is parked on the Dunarea (Danube) in the Braila riverfront. Brailianslike to promenade on week-ends and the streets are full of people. There are three cinemas and thelovely faleza which overlooks the Danube. The best time to visit the city is in the summer when theriverfront terraces are open, which is also the best time to take a visit across the Danube to the InsulaBrailei, a wooded island good for walks and picnics.

��DiningThe best restaurant in Braila is After Dark on Strada Plevna. It is the newest restaurant and servespizza, pasta and Romanian cuisine in a rustic, atmospheric building with decent service. The chineserestaurant located on Str. Republici where it meets Dorobanti has surprisingly authentic Chinesefood in an infrequently visited and garishly decorated second floor restaurant with reliable (if notcheerful) service.

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Focsani

��LocationFocsani is located about 70 kilometers northwest of Braila and Galati. Maxi-taxis leave fromBucaresti to Focsani every 30 minutes, and because it is on the train line to Iasi and Suceava, thecity is also well connected by train.

��AttractionsFocsani has a number of interesting sites for travelers. At the southern end of the city on B-dulBucuresiti stands the WWI Mausoleum. B-dul Bucuresti continues north into the center of town,Piata Unirii, which is the place where Moldova and Wallachia were officially unified in 1859. Farthernorth on Boulevardul Republicii is the old theater that has been damaged by two earthquakes, onein 1977 and one in 1986. The theater is currently under renovation, but is still an impressive sight.Opposite the theater is an Orthodox Church that is over 300 years old. About ten minutes outsideof the city by maxi-taxi is the Vrancea Muesum and Ethnographic Reservation.

Vrancea is known throughout Romania for its wine. On the last weekend in October, Thursdaythrough Sunday is the Vrancea Wine Festival. The festival offers regional and national crafts, localwine produces, food booths, carnival rides and games. Every evening folk singers and dancers per-

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form for the crowds. Romanian pop musicians also come to play, and the town holds a pageant forharvest queen. There are poetry competitions and vin-culture expositions. The festival is a very pop-ular one in the region.

There are several possible day trips from Focsani. Busses leaving the bus station towards Brasovstop in Lepsa, where trout farms, the Putna Falls, and a beautiful nature reserve are all open to vis-itors. If staying in Lepsa, Pensiuna Cazare (0237-266-841 or 0237-614-397) is a guesthouse thatprovides rooms and family style meals. The inn overlooks a river with forests and mountains in thebackground. From Lepsa, Soveja is an hour-and-a-half walk, but there are also buses going there.In Soveja is an historical mausoleum and an outdoor sculpture garden. The fresh air and beau-tiful surroundings are good reasons in themselves to visit. The Zboina Hotel has rooms available fortravelers staying in Soveja.

��DiningThe best restaurant in Focsani is Wasserman’s Restaurant and Pizzeria, serving Romanian foodand pizza. Supermarket Mara on B-dul Unirii has a very good selection of hard-to-find foods.

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Galati

��LocationGalati is on the Danube River in the southeast of the Region. The city is served by intercity trainsand maxi-taxis from Bucaresti. Maxi-taxis leave from a small station just southeast of Gara de Nordtrain station in Bucaresti (corner of Stefan Furtuna and Dinicu Golescu).

��AttractionsGalati is a city of great interest to Eastern European history buffs. There is wealth of ancient andmodern history in the lore of the Galati port, streets, architecture. The mixture of Greek, Jewish,Roman, and Turkish culture will certainly intrigue those wishing to better understand the region.Galati city tours can be arranged through www.infotour.galati.ro. Tourists looking for a relaxing week-end can stroll along the Danube River on the broad, tree-lined boardwalk. Galati has many goodmuseums, parks, monuments, and archeological sites as well. The Precista Church, built in 1647,is the oldest structure in Galati and was built from red stone taken from the Roman Camp at Tirighina-Barbosi. The Orthodox Cathedral, Metoc Monastery and Greek Orthodox Church are all locat-ed in the city center and have excellent examples of early Romanian frescoes. The Museum ofHistory displays an extensive collection of artifacts such as archeological and iconological items fromthe Moldavian region. The Administrative Palace and Robescu House on the historic DomneascaStreet Architectural Reserve represent the finest work of renowned architect, Ioan Mincu. TheMuseum of Visual Arts includes over 5,000 works created between 1950 and 2003. The AlexandruIoan Cuza Residence on the street with Cuza’s namesake is a well-preserved eample of elegantFrench/Romanian architecture and furnishing. Cuza is revered for is role in the union of the regionswhich became Romania in 1859. Alexandrescu Urechea Library, on Mihai Bravu Street is over 115years old and still serves as a cultural research center for university students. Fani Tradini is beau-tiful white theater named for the famous actress and hosts symphonic concerts, drama, and musi-cals.

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��DiningThere are many ethnic and Romanian restaurants throughout Galati. The Blue Sun in the HotelGalati serves delicious Indian dishes. Bon Ton and Full House offer Romanian and continental fare.Both are located on Domneasca Street. Rapsodia in the Hotel Dunarea is well known for its tradi-tional Romanian food. Along the Danube are many cafes and pizzerias.

��LodgingThe three star Hotel Galati (www.hotelgalati.ro, 0236-460-040) and the two star Hotel Dunarea(0236-418-014) are both conveniently located on Domneasca Street in central Galati.

Piatra Neamt

��LocationPiatra Neamt is in the lower Bistrita Rover Valley, near the Carpathian Mountains. It is somewhat iso-lated, but there are daily trains to Bacau.

��AttractionsPiatra Neamt is a medium-sized city of about 130,000 people. Pietricica is the little mountain near-ly surrounded by the city. It offers a great view on clear days and an ideal spot for a picnic. Trails goup both the steeper frontside and slightly more forgiving back of the hill. Parcul Cozia can bereached by a cobblestone road that winds up the hill. On the way are a couple of restaurants, bothdecent. If traveling in there winter, here is a good place for sledding.

Piatra Neamt is a good starting place for day trips, particularly for people who enjoy the outdoors.Thirty kilometers to the west is Ceahlau. Ceahlau Mountain is one of the highest peaks in the east-ern Carpathians and great destination for hiking. A long day’s hike can reach the weather station onthe Toaca summit and return to the city. For those wishing to extend their hike, Cabana Dochia offerslodging and dining, and is located in the saddle between Toaca and Ocalasul Mare. Another optionis to set up camp in the grassy meadow below the cabana (it is necessary to purchase a tent permitfrom the Salvamont rescue station at the cabana). In the summer this spot can become crowded, soexplorers who prefer more remote areas would be well advised to enjoy their hiking elswhere.

��DiningTequila Bowling serves great salata cu piept de pui (chicken breast with salad), has a great terrace,and offers two bowling lanes. On Saturday nights, the music starts around 11:00 pm, and the dancefloor opens for business. Villa Italia on Strada Burebista serves the best Italian food in town and hasa good wait staff. Patti Paris across the street from the Hotel Central serves Italian ice cream andpastries.

��LodgingPiatra Neamt has three centrally located hotels, but a better option than these hotels is thePensiunea Ambiance (phone: 0040 233 231431, mobile: 0040 744 631661, web: www.aldo-travel.com/index_eng.html), a guest house owned by Doina Anghel of Aldo Travel. Although it’s locat-ed on the edge of town, the guesthouse offers large rooms and a homey atmosphere. Breakfast isincluded and other delicious meals will be prepared for a low price. The guesthouse can also arrangesteam train tours, opera tours, and other themed trips.


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Suceava

��LocationSuceava is one of the largest cities in the Moldavia region, and is located just south of the Ukrainianborder. From Bucuresti, there are daily busses and trains to Suceava. Cities to the west of Suceavaare more difficult to reach.

��Attractions

��DiningLatino Restaurant on Curtea Domneasca specializes in Italian and Romanian food. The restauranthas a pleasant atmosphere and delicious pizza with real mozzarella cheese (difficult to find inRomania). Markiz, which is two doors down, offers an assortment of Turkish food, pizza, and anIndian Burger that comes with lettuce (also difficult to find). There a nice terrace in the summer, anda bakery offering tasty pastries. Both Hotel Balada and Hotel Classic serve quality traditionalRomanian food, but expect high prices from Hotel Classic. Test Prima, on Strada Universitatii hasthe best meat, cheese, and potato pies in Suceava, and for a very low price.

Suceava also has several good bars and cafes. 60’s Club on Stefan Cel Mare is the best bar inSuceava with its mellow atmosphere and pool tables. The staff at 60’s, however, is sometimes berude and have been known to cheat foreigners. The Office Club, although expensive and out of theway, is the Suceava hot spot. Bring your earplugs, though—the house music can get pretty loud. Inthe Central park is the Underground Club, which has reasonably priced drinks and a nice staff. Optfor the beautiful terrace in the summer.

��LodgingThe only youth hostel in Suceava is the Class Hostel, which is located one kilometer from the trainstation at Str. Aurel Vlaicu 195 (phone 0723 782 328) and costs 13 Euro per person. Their web siteis www.classhostel.home.ro.

Vatra Dornei

��LocationVatra Dornei, a small town of 18,000, is located in the heart of the mountains, three hours west ofSuceava, four hours east of Cluj Napoca.

��AttractionsVatra Dornei is well known for its dairy products and mineral water, but more interesting to the trav-eler are the ski slopes, spas and hiking.

Each year around Valentine’s day, Vatra hosts their winter festival. During the festival the townspopulation doubles in order to enjoy live music, ski competitions, and other festivities.

��DiningRestaurant Carol, part of the Hotel Carol restaurant complex, is located on the pedestrian mall. Thefood is great, but watch out! Staff love to over-charge foreigners.

��LodgingVatra is a common popular place for tourists and has many hotels, pensions, and villas.

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Maramures

Maramures, the central northern area of the country is actually a part of Transylvania, but deservesnote as a hotbed of old Romanian culture. Villages throughout the county still live lives embedded intraditional. Many work in agriculture, practice traditional crafts, woodcarving especially, and don tra-ditional clothing on Sundays and holidays. The area is indeed fascinating and full of possibilities fordiscovery.

Sighetu Marmatiei

��LocationSighetu Marmatiei (Sighet) is located north of Baia Mare, a short distance from the Ukraine and about16 hours from Bucaresti by train. It is also connected to Baia Mare, Cluj, and Timisoara by train.While there is a road from Baia Mare to Sighet, it is a difficult drive, and not recommended in winterdue to the frequency of avalanches.

��AttractionsSighet is a surprisingly cosmopolitan city situated in traditional Maramures with a superb mountainsetting and a longstanding folk tradition. Sighet is home to numerous religious denominations, includ-ing Catholic, Lutheran, Baptist, Pentecostal, Jehovah’s Witness, Adventist, as well as Romanian,Greek, and Ukrainian Orthodox traditions.

Two parallel roads compose the city’s center and main commercial district. Most of the restaurantsand the movie theater are found there. The Palace of Culture, with its round towers and coneshaped roofs, and the Gothic style Lutheran cathedral are just two examples of the beautiful archi-tecture you will find here. The Palace of Culture offers classes in music, art, and drama, and hasimpressive murals inside. The Gradina Morii is a large park on the south end of town. Running upthe Iza River, its views of the surrounding mountains are spectacular. The park is used for many townfestivals.

At the corner of Str. Simion Barnutu and Str. Gheorghe Doja is “The Memorial of Communism andResistance,” more commonly known as the Prison Museum. Actually set inside a prison, the muse-um documents and presents the history of communism and the politically persecuted in Romania; itis an impressive and powerful exhibit. Although short on English language captions, the museumdoes offer English language tours, but ask in advance.

Sighet hosts its Winter Festival on December 27-30. The festival is truly unique and showcases folkdancing, traditional fashion, and music. People come from villages all around bringing all kinds offestive masks, and the celebration is city-wide. In the middle of May the city hosts a ten-day SpringFestival. This is a folk festival with outdoor performances, symposia, and special exhibits.

Located east of town, the village museum has a great collection of authentic Marmures residencesand churches that were deconstructed in other locations, their parts catalogued, and then reassem-bled here. The interiors are fitted with the items of everyday life and the logs that make up some ofthese houses are immense. The entire museum is prettily situated on top of a hill from which youcan see Sighetu Marmatiei.


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The cinema is located in the center of town. Although it doesn’t offer the best cinematic experience,the price is right. Across the street Skyland Disco has elaborate decorations and lighting, but tendsto cater to the high-school crowd.

A daytrip to Sapanta, home of the famous Happy Cemetery, is easy to make from Sighet. At theHappy Cemetary, you will find wooden crosses painted and carved with often-comical verses. A dic-tionary or an interpreter is necessary to get the most out of the visit These “head stones” are veryun-Romanian but worth the visit. It is also worthwhile to step inside the church, in which are someeye-pleasing frescoes and carved wood. Not very well known is the “museum” of the carver. Onthe road to the side of the church, there’s a sign that points to the carver’s house 300 meters away.The museum is essentially two rooms at the carver’s house, overseen by his wife. There are only afew carvings here, displaying a little more effort than those in the graveyard. The real reason, how-ever, to visit is the black and white photos of the former carver on the wall. Looking at these is likesitting in a Romanian’s home and being shown photos of their parents and grandparents. It puts thecarvings in the cemetery into a better context. The walk to and from the Happy Cemetery is also agood way to unwind and see the local architecture.

The wooden Barsana Monastery, also in Sapanta, however, is the best place to view MaramuresCounty’s love of woodwork. This women’s monastery consists of churches, lodging buildings, andgazebos. Busses traveling toward Satu Mare stop in Barsana, and there are busses direct toBarsana available from the bus station.

For more information about the villages in Maramures, and how to arrange a stay with a host familyor in pension, the Centru de Dezvoltare Economico-Sociala a Tarii Maramures (0262-312-552,www.mtmm.ro) has information about over 50 different pensions, host families etc. Also this organi-zation is a way to connect with people who can arrange car rides to the different sights, or developspecialized tours. They deal with the tourism of the Maramures area. Usually people who come toregion and use them for the contact information are pleased. They also have information on the fairs,festivals and notable artisans.

��DiningThe diversity of the food in Sighet does not yet match the diversity in the population. Sighet, howev-er, does not disappoint the pizza lover. While it’s a little more expensive than other restaurants, PizzaPrimavara has delicious food and an enjoyable atmosphere. Pizza Romina has comparable foodthat is a bit less expensive than Pizza Primavera, and has a lovely covered terrace opened in thesummer. Inside, however, expect a lot of smoke. It is best to steer clear of Pizza Nova. Inter Bijouxis home to the “Wall of Crying Children,” an unusual series of portraits of children that’s both sad andcomical. Small and smoky, you’ll find average food, but a good coffee here. Ileana has a nice sum-mer terrace, decent coffee and pastries, and like many other cafés is very smoky. Ali Baba is a bak-ery with unbelievable Polish pretzels. It’s located across the street from the fire station.

For drinks, a 15-minute walk south of the City Hall goes to Eddie Bar. Small and cozy inside, it offersthe chance to play a game of pool, and has a good terrace in the summer and barbecue on the week-ends. Tequila Pub in the center is nice but pricey.

��LodgingPerla Sigheteana is the best value for lodging. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the prices arefair, and the food is very good. Perla is located a bit outside of town, past the Lutheran cathedraland on Str. Avram Iancu nr. 65. Located a little farther down the street (nr. 42), but just as good asPerla is Motel Siesta (0262-311-468); it has a great terasa and resturant as well. Hotel Tisa is locat-

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ed in the center and comparably priced. Rooms here, however, are of a lower quality than at Perla.Also, later this year (2004) there will be the first hostel to open in Sighet. It is called the CobwobHostel and is at Str. 22 Dec. 1989 nr. 42. For information call 0740635673 or 0262-310-059.

A more culturally adventurous option is to spend a little time out in the villages and stay with gazdas(host families) or pensionars. Contact the Centru de Dezvoltare Economico-Sociala a TariiMaramures at 0262-312-552, or look at the website www.mtmm.ro where you can browse the 50 dif-ferent pensionars, gazdas etc. in the Maramures region. Also, this number/website is helpful for set-ting up car rides out to the different sights, arranging specialized tours, and getting information on thedifferent fairs/festivals in the region. They are very professional and reputable.


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Banat

Banat is the western portion of Romania, sharing borders with Serbia and Hungary. The region clear-ly shows its history of Habsburg influence through its architectrue. Ethnically there is a strongHungarian population, as well as a smaller community of Serbs. The region is somewhat removedfrom Bucuresti, both geographically and culturally, making it little surprise that the 1989 revolutionbegan in Timisoara, one of the Romania’s cheif college towns. The region is a good place from whichto go west, as all trains pass through Oradea, Arad, or Timisoara.

Arad

��LocationCharacterized by its Austro-Hungarian architecture, Arad is a city of about 200,000 people, and locat-ed in the westerun part of Romania between Timisoara and Oradea. Arad is an important train cross-roads, for destinations both in country and international, especially Budapest. There are fiveEuropean capitals closer to Arad than Bucuresti.

Getting around: In the center of the city is a wide main thoroughfare, Bvd. Revolutiei. The Boulevard’ssouthern endpoint is the Teatrul de Stat, and at the northern end is a large Romanian OrthodoxChurch still under construction. The distance between the two is 2 km. The centerpiece of the city is

the Primaria (City Hall); it was built in the 19th century and patterned after similar governmental struc-tures in Vienna. Most activities, hotels, restaurants and entertainment is within easy walking distanceof the Primaria. However transportation does include a convenient tram system and accessible, reli-able taxis.

��AttractionsArad’s most unique attraction is The Strand. The Strand is a series of cafes, bars, restaurants, dis-cos and games along the Meres River. It is also located close to the Primaria. It is allegedly thelargest strand in Central Europe. It is common for over 5,000 patrons on a summer evening, 10,000on any summer weekend and 15,000 during concerts. A good source for finding out more about thecity and events is www.primariaarad.ro.

��DiningArad has a variety of restaurants, cafes and pizzerias. Three recommended dining spots are withineasy reach from the Primaria. Coandi Mic has the best Romanian food. Pizza King serves excel-lent pizza and also offers a non-smoking environment, a rarity in Romania. Il Padrino offers mod-estly priced Italian food that won’t disappoint. And for a special occasion, Mozart’s is the place togo, but be warned that it is expensive.

��LodgingThere is a variety of hotels in Arad. 2 star Hotel Arad, the 3 star Hotel Central and a more upscale(and expensive) 3 star Hotel Continental Astoria. All are within minutes of the Primaria.

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Lugoj

��LocationLugoj is located in southern Romania, east of Timisoara. Most trains traveling to or from Timisoarastop in Lugoj, making this the simplest way to travel to and from the city. The autogara near the mainsquare in Lugoj also has busses traveling to both Romanian cities and international destinations.

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Lugoj is a medium-sized town that contains several churches dating from the 15th century. The old-est monument is the Saint Nicholas Monastery Church, which was built in 1402. Iulia HasdeauHigh School stands next to the church, on top of what was once the church cemetery. The baroqueCathedral of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin is another important landmark that was construct-ed in the mid 1700s.

Those seeking art and history will find many outlets in Lugoj. Galeria Proarte is in the center of townand periodically hosts nice traveling exhibits. The Music House commemorates the rich musical tra-dition of the area. The Music House honors great musicians such as Traian Grozavescu, who wasthe world’s best tenor during his time. History and culture buffs should not miss the HistoryMuseum.

In the summer, swimming in the Timis River is popular. Paddleboat rentals are available for thosewishing to cruise around. 30 kilometers from Lugoj is Surduc Lake, a good spot for a daytrip. Thelake is a good place fishing, camping, or hanging out with friends. Restaurants and lodging areavailable.

In the evening Victoria Cinema shows films. The local theater regularly hosts both national and inter-national theater troupes. Local discos are frequented mostly by high school students. Nevertheless,it is possible to have a surprisingly good time with a group of friends there. Club Planet or Coco willmeet all of the needs of disco enthusiasts.

Lugoj hosts three festivals each year. In the (season) are the Beer Festival, Wine Festival, and theHarvest Festival. Here are popular parties with plenty of food, drink, traditional music and dancing.

��DiningPescarusul Restaurant is three kilometers outside Lugoj and well worth the trip. It serves Romanianfare including deer and bear, features live Romanian music, and is very inexpensive. TivoliRestaurant is a bit expensive but has good food and service. Dunav Restaurant has typicalRomanian food and prices, but has live music and a good terrace. Ana Lugojana Inn andRestaurant, nine kilometers outside the city on the way to Surduc, has great clatite cu branza (crepeswith cheese) and tasty mici. Compact, Milano, and Zuchini’s all offer pizza and Romanian food forlow prices.

Super or Matcon are two bars/cafes; there is no dancing or overly loud music, good places to enjoydrinks with friends. They are located next door to one another, and both places are small and inex-pensive. Camille tries to be Euro-chic, but fails. Nevertheless, it is a nice place to have a beer orglass of wine. In the summer, Carla is a popular place for a drink. Flamingo offers food, drinks, andgood music.

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��LodgingThe best hotel in Lugoj is the 3-star Hotel Tivoli. The Hotel Dacia also has 3-stars and is open forbusiness, but is currently being remodeled. If you like to watch the trains, head to the Hotel Timis,2-star, that has a view of the train station. The 2-star Hotel Tirol is on the edge of the city.

Resita

��LocationResita is one hour south of Timisoara and about two hours north of Baile Herculane, not far from theSerbian border. Maxi-taxis, buss, and trains go from Timisoara to Resita. A quicker option is to takea cab to the “autostop pentru Resita,” a short distance from the center, and hitch a ride; the wait isusually no longer than 5-10 minutes.

��AttractionsThe Caras-Severin County Museum of History, the art sculpture at Victoria Piata and the ArtGallery are all good options for travelers wishing to see some of the history and culture of the area.If looking for inexpensive clothing, the GAS store is a factory outlet that isn’t very large but has greatprices.

Daytrip options are plentiful from Resita. Garina is a small village about 33km to the southeast andhas a restaurant called La Rascruce, which servers excellent the tocatura with mamaliga. The sur-rounding area is ideal for an afternoon hike. The pension house offers accommodations for about$10.00 per night. In winter, the Semenic Mountains are good for winter sports, and the Hotel Birtaoffers the Dracula Snowmobile Tour. In summer the outdoor loving traveler will be pleased to visitCerna Valley, Anina Mountains, and the Danube Iron Gate Reservation

Baile Herculane is about one-and-a-half-hours by car (otherwise 3-4 hours), a possible daytrip, andhas aesthetic appeal. The stone-carved sanctuaries date back to the Roman Empire. Today abronze statue of Hercules stands in the Hercules Piata across from the 4-star Hotel Ferdinand.There are spas available to rejuvenate and heal the weary traveler.

��DiningThe Aristocrat is in the center of the city and serves delicious Chinese, Italian, and Romanian dish-es. The calzone will especially please both mouth and stomach. On B-dul Revolutia de Decembriebeside the power plant the Acapulco Cafeteria offers the best pastries in Resita. Highly recom-mended pizza restaurants are Florio Pizza (for delivery, 0255-224-308), with a terrific thin crust, andRebel (also delivers, 0255-222-243). Dulce Vita in Governdar (the new part of town) serves goodItalian food. For fast food, Fast Food Intim, Maxx Fast Food are all adequate restaurants. Maxi-Burgers offers great customer service, and Princess, has inexpensive beer and tasty snitzel parti-san, and both serve Romanian fare. For music while dining, Sanela has sub-par food but a relaxingambiance and live jazz musicians nightly and is in Governdar. Terasa Acapulco, beside the powerplant, also offers live music, mici, pasta, and traditional Romanian dishes.

Club Castel is a good bar at the southern end of the city, and also serves food. Club Costello, akilometer from the center in the Old Town is a risqué club in the traditional French style. Flamingo’s,in the center, offers over 40 mixed drinks and top brand liquor. Shell Bar, located above the ShellGas Station is also highly recommended.

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��LodgingHotel Seminic is located in the center of town (255-213-480) at Piata 1 Decembrie 1918, #2. It isnever at or near capacity; there is always a vacancy, and unfortunately, there is a good reason—thehotel is a bleak looking place best classified on the darker side of “shady.”

Timisoara��LocationTimisoara, in the southwest of Romania, is very well connected by train, bus, and plane. Direct trainsrun to and from many major cities, including Bucaresti, Cluj, and Iasi. The airport has both domesticand international flights.

Getting around: A good resource is www.timisoara.ro. This site provides a good map with the namesof streets, parks, and landmarks, as well as other information for visitors. Most destinations can befound in reference to the long public plaza stretching from the Orthodox Cathedral at the south endto the Opera House at the north end, which sits on Piata Victoriei, but also known as Piata Operei.Two reliable taxi services are Tudo Taxi (dial 945; include the 0256 prefix for cell phones) and RadioTaxi (940).

��AttractionsTimisoara is absolutely beautiful. It is rich in history and has a western European feel that exists infew other Romanian cities. There are numerous peaceful parks, a wide selection of quality restau-rants and cafes, and more diversions than are possible to see in a short vacation.

Because of the plethora of activities and sights in Timisoara, the Tourist Information Center is goodplace to get started. It's on Str. Proclamatiei de la Timisoara, Nr. 5, about five blocks northeast ofPiata Victoriei. It's open Mon-Sat 10 am - 6 and the e-mail contact is [email protected].

Timisoara has three featured museums: the History Museum, near Piata Revolutiei, theEthnographic Museum, near the Hotel Continental, and the Village Museum, near the intersectionof tramvai 1 and 2. For a quiet day in the park, the Botanical Park is three blocks northwest of theOpera House, off of Str. G. Dima. Parcul Rozelor is one of a string of parks hugging the edge of thedowntown area and running along the Bega Canal west of the Cathedral; the park sometimes hostssummer performances in its outdoor theater. Parcul Poporului a bit farther from the center, about a20 minute wald from the Opera House on Blvd. 3 August 1919.

The Opera House, in front of which the 1989 revolution began, hosts regular performances.Advertisements for the philharmonic are usually posted around the city. There are three full time,indoor cinemas in the city. Capitol Cinema is on Blvd. C.D. Loga, nr. 2, one block east of theCathedral. Cinema Timis is on Piata Victoriei and shares an entrance with Club 30, a goodjazz/blues night club. Cinema Studio Euroimages is on Str. N. Lenau, half a block east of the PiataVictoriei fish fountain. During the summer and early fall there is an additional outdoor cinema,Cinema de Vara. It is behind the Capitol Cinema and shows movies at 10:00 P.M. weather permit-ting. Near Piata Revolutiei is the British Council Cultural Center; it is one block west of the OperaHouse, off Blvd. Republicii, on Str. Paris, nr. 1. which offers a variety of English magazines, movies,and books. There is also a French Cultural Center on Blvd. C.D. Loga, nr.46 offering similarresources. To cool down in the summer consider on of the many pools open for a swim, or a river-side terrace for a cold beer.

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Club No Name, Club 53, and Tunnel Club, are all near Piata Unirii and good places to live the nightlife. Tunnel Club is trendy, pricey, and located underground, with the dance club in the back. The frontroom, however, is casual and open, and the music is not so loud you can't have a conversation.There are also places in Timisoara with good music but less of a weekend-club feel: Cactus, in thecomplex, Club 30, under Cinema Timis, has live jazz and blues performers, D'arc and Evolution areboth near Piata Unirii and play house music. The Note is near the complex and a bit pricey, but agreat venue for weekly live performances.

��DiningDining options in Timisoara are almost limitless For pizza, Napoleon's is located in the complex;Celentanos and Magic Pizza are both nearby. Pizzeria Scalini in Calea Aradului serves Italian foodand has excellent ice cream. The best Romanian food in Timisoara is served at La Nea Marin inCartierul Mehala, Club 21 in Piata Revolutiei, and Tineti near Calea Aradului. For those trying toscrounge up some breakfast, The Colt Café and Grizzly are good choices, and both are near PiataUnirii. Perla 2 and Tequila are in the complex, also serve good breakfast food, and offer free coffeeand newspapers with your order.

Decadent desserts are available everywhere in Timisoara. Ana Lugojana on the road towards Lugojmakes good clatite (crepes), as do Restaurant Sena, in the student complex, Banateana, Rustic,Maestro a restaurant in the center, and Piata Balcescu's little diner, where the Crepe Suzettes willnot disappoint. Ice cream lovers should try Europa Restaurant near Zanonui, Pizzeria Scalini,Zanonui on Porumbescu Street or Cimineli near Maestro and Piata Libertatii. Papanasi can be foundat Perla 2 and Valachia.

International cuisine options in Timisoara are boundless by comparison with other Romanian cities.Texas, located on Strada Circumvalatiunii nr. 10, serves American food, arguably the best burgers,pork ribs, steak fries, and chicken wings in Romania. China Mare, near Gara de Est, serves (that'sright!) Chinese food, while Harolds, in the complex, serves both Chinese and Mexican fare. LaCucaracha, also in complex, has Mexican food exclusively. For Greek food, Acropolis near PiataUnirii is a good destination. Excellent ambiance and Indian food can be found at Mahajara on PiataUnirii, on a corner across from the Eclipse Café. Oliviu, near Calea Sagulu, serves Lebanese food,and the Kenan Star on Strada Brancoveanu not only serves Turkish fare but also delivers. Acrossthe street from Perla 2 Hotel, you can enjoy a distinctive Balkan meal at a good Serbian restaurant.

Java House, near Piata Unirii, Corso Café and Art Café, both near Hotel Continental, and EclipseCafé on Piata Unirii are all good cafés. Latino near the Banca Comerciala Romana serves realItalian espresso. Inside serves good cocktails. For a casual hangout with inexpensive beer, theFabrica de Bere is highly recommended. Club 1MV on Boulevard Mihai Viteazul is a popular nightspot.

��LodgingAgentia Taberelor si Turismului Scolar (ATTMS; 0256-190-468) on Strada Mihai Eminescu has ahostel that charges about $7.00 for a bed and gives discounts to teachers. The rooms have 2-4 bedsand a private bathroom. There is a communal kitchen, but you can also order breakfast and dinnerwhen you make your reservation. The hostel in Casa Tineretului, behind the McDonald's on StradaCluj is part of AYH-HI, and costs about $6.00 a night; their website is www.hihostels-romania.ro. TheCasa Politechnicii Hotel (0256-220-366) is owned by the university and costs about $14.00 a night,includes breakfast, and is located across from the Cathedral off Piata Victoriei. Hotel Cina-Banatul(0256-491-903, www.cina.com.ro) was remodeled in 2003, is one-and-a-half blocks west of the cen-ter on Blvd. Republicii, and charges $25.00-35.00 Euro per night.

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42 Volunteer Travel Guide

Dobrogea

Dobrogea is the Black Sea coastal and Danube Delta region. The Delta is an incredible ecologicalpreserve, popular especially among fishermen and bird-watchers, while the beachfronts cater moreto standard summer tourists. In parts, the region bears the marks of former Turkish rule (ceded toRomania after Russian/Romanian forces defeated Turkey in Bulgaria in 1878) with an existingIslamic community and functioning mosques.

Constanta

��LocationConstanta is located on the Black Sea, about three hours east of Bucuresti by train. There are a num-ber of trains to and from Constanta in the summer, with direct trains coming from locations as faraway as Timisoara, Cluj, Arad, Iasi, and Suceava. During the rest of the year, there are far fewertrains going to and from Constanta, but there are still several trains daily to and from Bucuresti.

��AttractionsConstanta is a city packed with museums, theaters, and tourist activities. The Constanta TouristInformation Canter at 221 Tomis Boulevard (0241 708 600, www.geocities.com/constanta_cit) pro-vides travelers with a wealth of information on what to see and do, as well as recommendations fordining and lodging.

Constanta County has four archeological museums, five art museums, a natural science muse-um, a naval museum, and a military museum. The National History and Archaeology MuseumConstanta displays artifacts concerning the entire history of Dobrogea, some of which date back tothe Paleolithic period. Artifacts of special historical and artistic value are housed here, as are rareand unique objects such as the Tanagra statues and the famous thesaurus of sculptures, whichincludes busts of Isis, the goddess Hectate, and the Glycon Serpent. The museum is located onOvidius Square, and is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. The Constanta Art Museum is at 32Tomis Boulevard. The museum displays paintings, sculpture and graphic art belonging to great mod-ern and contemporary artists such at Theodor Aman, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Lucian, TheodorPalady and others. The Constanta Folk Art Museum, also at 32 Tomis Boulevard, presents manyelements of the ethnographic and folk art of Romania. Romanian folk costumes, handkerchiefs, car-pets, furniture, domestic objects, and ceramics are on display. Ion Jalea Sculpture Museum at 26Arhiepiscopiei Street has a 120-piece collection of works in bronze and plaster. The Art MuseumMedgidia on Trandafirilor Street displays works of the greatest classic and contemporary Romanianartists. The focus of the artwork is on Dobrogea, and the museum tries to accomplish a dialoguebetween the region’s old and new landscape.

The Natural Sciences Museum of Constanta at 225 Mamaia Boulevard is divided into six main sec-tions. The Dolphinarium has shows with trained dolphins from the Black Sea, as well as two SouthAmerican sea lions. The World Ocean Museum is in the same building as the Dolphinarium and hascollections of marine flora and fauna from the Black Sea in addition to marine life from other seas andoceans of the world. The Planetarium and Astronomical Observatory is equipped with an astronom-ical observatory and solar observation station. The Animal Micro Reservation presents birds uniqueto the Danube Delta and offers visitors the chance to learn about some terrestrial and aquatic ani-mals. The Exotic Birds Exhibition presents a collection of exotic and decorative birds. The Aquariumholds a rich collection of aquatic fauna specific to the Black Sea and Danube Delta, with several

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species of exotic fish from other oceans, and it boasts the largest collection of sturgeon in the world.

The Romanian Naval Museum of Constanta at 53 Traian Street contains three-dimensionalobjects, bas-reliefs, casts of epigraphic documents, ancient coins, model reproductions of all types ofships, and reproductions of mural paintings. The museum is closed on Mondays. The NationalMilitary Museum presents the traditional weapons of the Romanian terrestrial army. The exhibitioncontains valuable collections of weapons, firearms, decorations, medals, vintage costumes and cam-paign uniforms, and military flags. It is located at Strada Liliacului number 7, and is closed onMonday.

There are a handful of theaters in Constanta that travelers may wish to visit. The Ovidiu DramaTheater, the Constanta Opera, and the Marea Neagra Filarmonica are located at Strada Mierceacel Batran, number 97. The Oleg Danoviski Ballet Theater is at number 5 Strada Rascoala. TheFantasio Revue Theater is at number 11 Bulevardul Ferdinand. The Elpis Puppet Theater can befound at Strada Aristide Karatzali, number 14.

Constanta is a good launch pad for day trips where the traveler may visit still more museums, andseveral monasteries. The Histria Archaeological Museum is located 60 kilometers north ofConstanta, near Istra Village. Inside are several bas-reliefs, Greek amphorae, painted ceramics, andGreek objects made from glass, metal, bone, and ivory. Adamclisi Archaeological Museum is inthe village Adamclisi, 60 kilometers southwest of Constanta. It collection consists of artifacts such aslamps, ancient coins, tools, jewelry, and numerous pieces of architecture and epigraphy. Locatednext to the papyrus tomb is Callatis Archaeological Museum of Mangalia. The museum exhibitsvaluable archaeological artifacts found inside the ancient fortress of Callatis. The Topalu ArtMuseum in Topalu, a village 80 kilometers northwest of Constanta, exhibits over 200 works ofRomanian artwork including paintings, sculpture, and graphic art. The museum is closed Mondayand Tuesday. The Holy Monastery Dervent, 96 kilometers southwest of Constanta, is in the villageof Oltina and near the Danube. The monastery is on a spot where four of Saint Andrei’s discipleswere killed about 2,000 years ago. Legend claims that the stone crosses appeared after their deathsand have healing powers, as does the spring sitting at the end of the orchard here. The Cave andMonastery of Saint Andrew the Apostle is like a Romanian Bethlehem. It was here that Christianityfirst came to Romania. The monastery is located near Ion Corvin village, about 60 kilometers south-west of Constanta.

��DiningFor a Romanian meal, Delfinul in Complex Flamanda serves great ciorba de burta (soup with stom-ach) and is very inexpensive. Marco Polo on Strada Miercea cel Batran serves good salata de boef,but can get very crowded on the weekends. The Shaft Restaurant, across from Casa de Cultura,serves wild game. Ambient and Pronto, both on Boulevard Mamaia, serve good food, as does LesBarons on Tomis Boulevard, though Les Barons is more expensive. For Italian food, La Socia atAprod Purnice number 5 and On Plonje, across from the Yacht Club are the best choices. Pizza Innhas adequate pizza and good salads, while Al Forno on Mamaia Boulevard serves good pizza.Scapino on Boulevardul Tomis is elegant and serves good Italian food but is expensive. For Turkishfood, Apendos on Tomis Boulevard. Off the boulevard, Bad Rock serves great Indian food. NewWest, at the intersection of Bulevardul Ferdinand and Mircel Cel Batran offers amazing Lebanesefood and has hookahs for those who like to finish a good meal with flavored tobacco.

Black Sea and the Irish Pub are both bars with patios on the sea, and they serve drinks at averageprices. No Problem in Complex Dacia is crowded and expensive. Disco Max in the Casa de Culturaserves the under 18 crowd. Megalos on Mamaia Boulevard, across from the university, has reason-

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ably priced drinks, a diverse mix of music, and a friendly atmosphere, but it can become crowded.New Orleans is a two level coffee-house-style establishment with good music and comfy sofas, butcharges a hefty 100,000 lei to sit at a table. Deep and Dark on Tomis Boulevard is expensive andcrowded. Club Phoenix in Tomis Nord has live bands on Saturdays and a good atmosphere, butgets very smoky.

��LodgingUpscale accommodations are available at the 4-star Royal Hotel on B-dul. Mamaia nr.191 (0241-545-882). It provides a minibar, air conditioning, and new, clean rooms, plus massage and fitnessservices. The 3-star Bulevard Hotel at B-dul. Mamaia nr.294 (0241-831-533) has double rooms withrefrigerators, phone, air conditioning, cable TV and Internet. Hotel services include a Jacuzzi and asauna. Capri Hotel on Str. Mircea cel Batran, nr.109 (0241550-993) is also 3 stars and has air con-ditioning in all rooms, a terrace, bar, billiards, swimming pool, sauna and Jacuzzi. The 3-star GuciHotel (0241-695-500) at Str. Rascoala 1907, nr.23, offers similar amenities and has a Mexicanrestaurant. The Dobrogea Hotel at B-dul. Alexandru Lapuaneanu nr.194 (0241-655-503) has 2-startriples, doubles and suites, and accepts payment by credit card. The Tibotours Hotel at B-dul.Mamaia, nr.292, (0241-831-031), a 1 star establishment, offers 40 triple rooms and 10 doubles.

Mangalia

��LocationMangalia, Romania’s second most important sea port, is a bustling town at the southernmost coastaledge of Romania, near the Bulgarian border. Trains going to Constanta (the 800 line) continue on toMangalia in the summer time, but maxi taxis from the train station in Constanta are faster. Exiting thetrain station, turn right and walk parallel to the tracks. The Mangalia vans are at the pastiserie andleave every 20 minutes from about 6 am to 8 or 9 pm. Their first stop in Mangalia is at the train sta-tion, the second at the “farmacie,” across from the archeology museum, and the third at the posta.Get out at the posta if staying at the President Hotel. Note: Avoid the full sized busses, they will stopin every village between Constanta and Mangalia and test even God’s patience.

For information about leaving Mangalia by train, the “Agentie de Voiaj” (train travel agency) is in themain post office. Maxi taxis to other parts of Romania are relatively frequent, especially in the sum-mer. SimpaTrans’ (0241- 754-520) office is across from the train station in Mangalia. Maxi taxis toBucharest are cheaper but not usually faster than trains, and they can also be quite hot and miser-able.

Currently there are no official services traveling to Bulgaria from Mangalia. Nor are there any ferryservices to Russia or Turkey. Trains to Istanbul go from Bucuresti. The Bulgarian border however,is a short walk from Vama Veche, and the nearest town in Bulgaria is 6km from there. Hitch-hikingmay be possible and the border isn’t very busy.

��AttractionsThe most obvious attraction in Mangalia is the beach. Every side street traveling east of the mainroad goes there. At night, the promenade along the beach is busy with bars and music but it is rel-atively quiet compared to its neighbors. The real discos are found to the north in other resorts.Saturn is a suburb of Mangalia and within walking distance to the north and on the beach. Mangaliadoes have two movie theaters. The indoor movie theater is on Str. Rozelor just east of the centralroundabout. The summertime outdoor movie theater is south of the roundabout on SoseauaConstantei beside the archeology museum.

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Locals take great pride in the ancient history of their town—many restaurants, a school and the arche-ology museum are named Callatis, the ancient Greek name for the city. The (small) CallatisArchaeological Museum is the main best place to see Greek and Roman artifacts in the city. It islocated south of the roundabout on the main road Soseaua Constantei. There is a small admissionfee. The basement of the President Hotel is another place to check out archaeology, this time forfree. The foundations of an ancient Roman building are preserved there. The town mosque is locat-ed in the center of town near the President Hotel. Inside is an English description of the mosque,and outside is a cool, shady yard. The people are very friendly and welcome visitors of all religionsand ethnicities.

Mangalia’s town days, called “Seven Days, Seven Nights” or “Festival Callatis,” happens about the

15th of August every year. Bleachers and chairs are set up on the dike and an oyster shaped stageis pulled out into the sea to accommodate performances for almost every major Romanian band.

The ever popular Vama Veche is just south of Mangalia. Vama is a cultural anomaly in Romania,described by many as a hippie beach. Thousands of young Romanians visit every summer, listen togood music, sunbathe nude, drink, dance and just have fun. Maxitaxis run from Mangalia to Vamaevery half hour or hour. Boarding is at any of the southbound stops in town.

��DiningNew restaurants are constantly opening in Mangalia. In the summer, fast food restaurants and ter-race bars open on the beach. Year round restaurants are plentiful along the main road between thecenter and the roundabout. The best pizza is at Casa Rosemary south of the roundabout. It is theone with big windows. Beside the President Hotel is Café Del Mare (with the tree trunk outside lit upwith Christmas lights year round), which serves decent American style food accompanied by anocean view. The Irish Pub is a bit expensive and often has slow service, but it still tends to be aPeace Corps favorite because of the variety on the menu: Mexican, Italian, Romanian and, of course,Irish pub food. It is on Str. 1 December 1918, and it is small and brown with a green, neon three leafclover. Continue south past the posta on the main street to another small roundabout at the end.Turn left and it is on the corner of a block building. For all 90210 fans, the Peach Pit is south of theroundabout, across from Rosemary’s. It is an ordinary Romanian cofetaria. The largest grocerystore is Coral and is located at the end of the main street, a several minute walk past the post office.It shares a porch entrance with a fast food restaurant called “El Greco.” The market is across thestreet from the “primaria” (city hall), behind the shops at the head of the pedestrian street Str. VasileAlecsandri.

��AccomodationsThe preferred hotel among volunteers is the Hotel President (0241 755 861). It is located on thebeach in the center of town. The side street across from the post office, Str. Oituz, leads there; thehotel is past the mosque and is the large white building on the left. The other major hotel in town isthe tall Hotel Mangalia (0241 752 052) located at the end of Str. Rozelor going east towards the seafrom the roundabout. The Hotel Zenit (0241 751 645), Astra (0241 751 673), and Orion (0241 751156) are three smaller, brightly painted hotels on the beach promenade to the north of HotelPresident. Call for current, seasonal prices.

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Tulcea

��LocationTulcea, and Dobrogea in general, is one of the more isolated parts of the country. There is now anIC train, the ‘Blue Arrow’ which leaves Bucharest once a day and goes to Tulcea in a little less than5 hours. If not traveling by the fast train, the way to go is by maxi taxi from Bucuresti.

Navigation around Tulcea is like navigation against a big ‘T’ set against the southern shore of theDanube. The road going east from Galati is Strada Isaccei, and this street goes from the train sta-tion or bus station towards center, depending (you can also follow the faleza along the river as well).Strada Isaccei is Tulcea’s main road. Strada Babadag is the intersecting road (coming north fromConstanta). These two roads meet at the Civic Plaza

��AttractionsTulcea is a town set on seven hills against the southern shore of the Danube. Because it rests almostlike an amphitheatre, it’s easy to re-orient after losing oneself following one of the man small cobble-stone roads leading away from the city center. Downhill almost always leads to familiar territory. Aninteresting walk is up to the War Memorial. The monument overlooks the city and is only a ten-minute walk from the Hotel Delta, albeit uphill. The memorial itself is worth the trip, and a beautifulview of the town, the big dip in the river, and the beginning of the delta comes as a pleasant addedextra.

The region has a rich store of archeological history. Tulcea was founded as a Greek port, later named‘Aegyssus’ by the Romans. Perched next to the War Memorial is the Archeological Museum, whichhas among other artifacts, an esteemed collection of old Roman and Greek coins. Other museumsin the town are: the Danube Delta Museum with interesting flora and fauna exhibits plus an aquari-um downstairs, the Art Museum with a nice permanent collection upstairs and traveling exhibitsdownstairs, and the Folklore Museum, which explores the cultural diversity of the area (RomanianUkrainian, Greek, Turkish, Italian, Bulgarian, and more) through exhibits on folk tradition and handi-craft.

Mid-August brings Tulcea’s largest festival, the International Folk Festival. It lasts about a week

and the 15th of the month is the biggest day. Thousands of people trek to Tulcea to participate in theevent. Stages are built on boats, and musicians play on along the faleza (boardwalk along the river),which is lined with beer tents. The party can be great fun, although the scene can become uncom-fortably crowded at night for the main acts.

Tulcea is the place from which to launch a trip into the Delta. The Danube Delta Biosphere ReserveAdministration (ARBDD) has an information center in the downstairs of its building on the river, nearthe train station. Also there is an ANTREC booth offering information on pension stays with local fam-ilies in the Delta. In general, tourism companies are not difficult to find, and they often take initiativeand seek out people carrying backpacks and looking like tourists along the faleza.

There is a small town, Tudor Vladirmirescu, across the river from Tulcea. Not much is there but a 2minute, $.25 ferry across river will score a panoramic view of Tulcea’s waterfront. Two boat com-panies have boats waiting on the faleza to conduct the ferry ride. It’s an interesting detour and a funway to spend a half-hour. .

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Tulcea has a number of places to see a film. There are boards describing the movies showing at thetown’s center intersection, just a few steps from the Hotel Delta. Cinema Patria on Str. Babadagshows filmas at at 1,3,5,7,and 9. The town’s largest theater is Cinema Select – a disco that turnsitself into a theater for afternoon films.Sala Mica is another small theatre in the same building as the Cinema Select, but upstairs. It seatsabout 20 people and feels like a small private theater. Buy tickets in the front; the entry is in the alleyon the right.

��DiningThere are no spectacular restaurants in Tulcea, but the town does offer several decent options.Select serves good food that’s well priced and has a terrace. Select is a 2-minute walk from the HotelDelta. La Caluda is a great shaorma/kebab place in front of Piata Veche (on Strada Isaccei mid-way between the Gara and the Hotel Delta), and is open until 2 a.m. The owner constantly complainsthat they’re not making money, which is understandable with the way they stuff their sandwiches. DaTino Pizzeria, across from the Cinema Select downtown, recently opened and is GOOD! The pizzachef twirls dough as though he was raised in Chicago’s Italian neighborhoods. The pizzas are bigand have a crispy thin crust. Marinarul has good food and is open 24 hours. It has with 4 pool tablesupstairs and an outside patio. It’s a bit far away but 25,000 lei should be sufficient taxifare to gothere.

For just drinks, there are a plethora of beer tents and terraces open in the summer time. Carrul CuBere is below the Hotel/Restaurant Select and hidden by ivy and offers seating on outside terrace inthe summer months. Club 21 has a great terrace that overlooks the Danube; its marked by the yel-low awning up the street up from the Art Museum. Rolion is a bar covered by a red awning next tothe Gara on the faleza. It has good food in addition to the drinks and a nice patio scene in the sum-mer.

Piata Veche is the old Ukrainian Market on the south side of Strada Isaccei walking from the Garatowards the Hotel Delta. The larger Piata Noua is about the same distance from the Hotel Delta asVeche, but located south on Strada Pacii (another minute past the Restaurant Select). Fresh fruitsand vegetables are available in season at both markets in season. Piata Noua is also filled with smallgrocery stores and clothing kiosks. The ‘Visa’ is the closest and best supermarket nearby. It is setin the middle of town next to a good cafeteria, 1 minute from the Hotel Delta

��AccomodationsA number of hotels serve Tulcea. Hotel Delta is perhaps the best one, built neighboring the Danube.The hotel has an indoor swimming pool, a fitness center and an excellent restaurant. It is a popularplace for wedding receptions, graduation parties, etc. – be warned. Hotel Rex, built in 2003, seemspretty swank and is perched on Str. Babadag a 5 minute walk from the town center. Rooms stillshould be able to accommodate a river view though. Hotel Europolis is the basic mid-range hotellocated on Str. Pacii, close to Piata Noua. There’s a travel agency downstairs as well as a currencyexchange. A decent restaurant too is Hotel Select, also built in 2003. The Select was long knownas a restaurant but building hotels seems to be the new fad in Tulcea right now. The restaurant isone of the better ones in town with a nice second-story terrace we usually use in the summer months.

List of Festivals

A determined traveller could probably plan half a year solely around festivals in Romania; there arejust so, so many. Below we have listed a few, but there are many many more, as each city and manyvillages have their own annual “City Days” festival.

Cluj-NapocaEach weekend in the month of May, it seems Cluj is one big party. There is the city-days festival,beer festivals, and others.

In the fall, Cluj hosts the famous Ursus Beer Festival.

Around the end of May or beginning of June each year is the Transylvania International Film Festival;check www.tiff.ro for information.

For more specific information about these festivals www.sapteseri.ro (English and Romanian) andwww.clujinfo.ro (Roma-nian only) are good references.

FocsaniVrancea is known throughout Romania for its wine. On the last weekend in October, Thursdaythrough Sunday is the Vrancea Wine Festival. The festival offers regional and national crafts, localwine, food booths, carnival rides and games. Every evening is folk singing and dancing.Romanian pop musicians perform and the town holds a pageant for harvest queen. There arepoetry competitions and vin-culture expositions. The festival is a popular one in the region.

LugojLugoj hosts three festivals each year. In the (season) are the Beer Festival, Wine Festival, and theHarvest Festi-val. Here are popular parties with plenty of food, drink, traditional music and dancing.

MangaliaMangalia’s town days, called “Seven Days, Seven Nights” or “Festival Callatis,” happens about the

15th of August every year. Bleachers and chairs are set up on the dike and an oyster shaped stageis pulled out into the sea to accommodate performances for almost every major Romanian band.

Miercurea CiucThe Pentecostal Pilgrimage to Sumuleu Monastery brings over 300,000 people to Ciuc each springabout six weeks after easter.

Ciuc hosts many spring and summer festivals, all overflowing with the local Ciuc Beer and graced bytalented folk dancers and excellent local bands.

Odorheiu SecuiescThe Leisure and Tourism Fair is during the first week of May and features businesses related totourism from all over Romania and Eastern Europe.

The Craftsmen's Market in June brings local artisans to display and sell their work.

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The trade-show style October Fair provides a forum for businesses in the area to advertise their serv-ices.

HurezuHurezu is a village west of Ramnicu Valcea and holds a Ceramics Festival every summer the firstweekend of June.

SibiuThere are several wonderful festivals in Sibiu. The city hosts the Medieval Festival in mid-late Augustand the Pottery Festival in early September. The city web site www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm hasmore specific in-formation.

Sibiu is also the proud host of The ASTRA Film Festival, which shows a variety of documentary andanthropological films biennially, in October on even numbered years; information is available atwww.astrafilm.ro.

Sighetu MarmatieSighet hosts its Winter Festival on December 27-30. The festival is truly unique and showcases folkdancing, tra-ditional fashion, and music. People come from villages all around bringing all kinds offestive masks, and the cele-bration is city-wide.

SighisoaraAt the end of July, Sighisoara holds an enormous Medieval Festival that attracts visitors from all overRomania and foreign travelers as well.

In general, spring and summer are the best times to visit when the city hosts a number of popularEvents such as artisan fairs, traditional dance exhibitions, and local theater.

TulceaMid-August brings Tulcea's largest festival, the International Folk Festival. It lasts about a week andthe 15th of the month is the biggest day. Thousands of people trek to Tulcea to participate in theevent. Stages are built on boats, and musicians play on along the faleza (boardwalk along the river),which is lined with beer tents. The party can be great fun, although the scene can become uncom-fortably crowded at night for the main acts.

Vatra DorneiEach year around Valentine's day, Vatra hosts their winter festival. During the festival the town's pop-ulation dou-bles in order to enjoy live music, ski competitions, and other festivities.


travel guide june 2004

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