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Holidays for the Independent traveller

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Travellers Insights...Holidays for the Independent traveller

In·de·pend·ent Tra.vell.er - A person who is traveling or who often travels; free from outside control; not depending on another’s authority.

Today’s savvy travellers are looking for an authentic and personal experience, one that is uniquely their own!

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PHOTOGRAPHY Kristine Dear © 2012Axses © 2012AUTHORIan R. Clayton © 2012available on itunes.travelersinsights.com

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2 St. Nicholas Abbey & The Yeamans Saga

6 The British Take Barbados

9 See the Horses Swim

11 A Barbados Afternoon Adventure

14 Holidays Exclusively Yours

16 Information at Travellers Insights

55St.Nicholas Abbey5& The Yeamans Saga

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Just up the road from Six Men’s Bay and Speightstown is St. Nicholas Abbey and the rugged, wild Atlantic Coast on the east-ern side of Barbados. You can drive to St. Nicholas Abbey and Cherry Tree Hill driv-ing more or less straight up the into the interior from Speightstown.

Further along the road is the village of Bathsheba and the small round house that John Yeamans built. It stands on the corner at the foot of the big hill, just as it has for over 200 years. John – later Sir John – Yea-mans built the house before he shot Colonel Benjamin Berringer, who lived in the abbey, and fled to Carolina. The exact details of the whole affair are a bit vague, but it is clear that Yeamans had an affair with Colonel Benjamin Berringer’s wife Margaret, and the rest, as they say, is history.

It’s about an hour’s horse ride from Bathsheba to St. Nicholas Abbey in St Peter where the Berringers lived. Yeamans rode there quite often from the Round House. During the day, Yeamans visited to organize workers with his friend and business partner Col. Berringer.

Berringer and Yeamans were real estate speculators and planters. They were clearing the densely wooded area of Cherry Tree Hill and planning to sell the land to the new arrivals coming to Barbados. Besides being close to Bathsheba, the land was fertile, ideal for agriculture and boasted spectacular views of Cherry Tree Hill. At dinners, the Berringers and John talked of dreams, life, ambition, the military, adventure and power.

The Berringers loved his visits, especially Mrs. Berringer, who considered John Yeamans to be her saviour. She was lost in long, lonely days in a rambling mansion, tucked away in a wilderness of mahogany trees, far away from like minds and interests. Her husband did not understand her loneliness. He was content with his life as it presently stood: the business, the military reserves, the plantation and the stately home.

Home was a magnificent mansion that Ben-jamin had built and decorated, sparing no expenses. It was built in the classic style of a Jacobean mansion, complete with four chimneys and filled with tasteful antiques. Outside, the lawn stretched 100 feet to the great garden wall. Oleander, hibiscus, Ixora and tropical flowers grew, almost wild, in the formal beds. Royal palms lined the long drive. The Berringer’s were an established family living in luxury.

Black slaves and a few white men, who had come to Barbados as indentured labourers, manned the plantation. Sugar, which was introduced to Barbados in the 1630s, was very labor-intensive and in the early days, indentured labourers were recruited from England. They agreed to work for seven years without pay in exchange for their pas-sage and keep. But this labour source proved inadequate for the sugar trade’s growing de-mands. Young Englishmen were kidnapped and shipped along with convicted criminals to Barbados. Some, like Henry Morgan, es-caped the tyranny of this system and lived as buccaneers, raiding Spanish galleons as they carted cargo between Europe and the new world. Later, African slaves from Sierra Leone, Guinea, Ghana, the Ivory Coast, Ni-geria and Cameroon replaced indentured servants and forced white labour.

Margaret Berringer felt lost and alone.

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She was uncomfortable with the workers and the slaves. One white worker, now a fore-man, had been a convicted criminal. He was crude and frightening. Often, she stayed in-doors just to avoid his stare and uncouth manner. “I am a prisoner in paradise,” she thought.

Margaret was an ambitious and determined woman who struggled with the prejudices of the day. Her father was Reverend John Forester, and her upbringing was strict and conservative. Margaret had always felt like a prisoner of some sort, hiding her emotions, and pretending to be demure and ladylike to please her parents and live up to the expecta-tions that were smothering her.

She married Berringer because it was some-how expected. Women had no say; they were like property to be traded between rich fami-lies for the creation of governing alliances. To be fair, Berringer was wealthy and powerful and the idea of living in his castle-like home was intriguing. The intrigue did not last. Cherry Tree was a deserted forest where she remained hidden from everyone. Bridgetown was over two hours away by carriage; Speightstown was closer, but people were moving to the south. They had few friends and no one just popped in as they did in Bridgetown.

Yeamans’ visits brought relief, laughter and excitement. Margaret laughed at his jokes and loved his keen sense of the world. He un-derstood so much; he understood her. They talked sometimes with little need for words, sensing thoughts, emotions and intentions. It seemed that they had known each other for-ever, even when they first met. Secretly they walked in the woods. Sometimes they rode their horses to Bathsheba and strolled along the deserted beach at Cattlewash. They found pretexts to meet whenever they could.

Benjamin was an old fashioned man. Honour and respect were the foundations of his morality. He did not want to believe his wife was unfaithful, but there were rumours. He

overheard workers talking, he saw se-crets in faces, and he was aware of an abrupt silence when he happened on plantation gossip.

One day, as Benjamin walked through the grounds, he saw Nyala, a leader amongst the slaves, crushing cane in the windmill grinder.

“What you know of the missus and Mr. Yeamans?” he asked point blank.

“Some boys done see them together. He don’t got no respect, that Mr. Yeamans.”

Nyala never minced words. Yeamans had become careless with his affections and Colonel Berringer, a military man of honour, had only one recourse.

The duel was a spontaneous affair, arranged with the best British manners.

“You know what this means, John. You can’t be with another man’s wife and not expect him to do something about it.”

“But I love her,” Yeamans said. “These things happen. It’s not personal, Benjamin.”

“All the same, no one makes a fool of me in my house and gets away with it. What will it be, pistols or sabers?”

“Why not just a good punch up, old boy? There is no need for anything fatal, Benjamin.”

“Pistols then, and may the best man win.”

Yeamans did not want to kill Colonel Benjamin, but he did not want to die. In a duel, you can shoot to kill, to maim or miss. He was sure that Benjamin would aim to kill and that left no choice. From a distance, the body is like a dartboard; aim for the middle and you have a chance of hitting somewhere. Miss and

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you will certainly be hit in the return volley. The two men stood back-to-back and, on command, walked the 20 paces away from each other. They turned together and fired.

Yeamans married Mrs. Berringer and moved into the Abbey shortly after they buried Benjamin. But life was not easy. Friends and family turned against them. The 1660s were hard times for Barbados. In 1663, a locust plague destroyed crops across the island. A fire had burned Bridgetown to the ground and provisions were scarce. A major hurricane in 1667 blew down sheds and uprooted trees on the plantation, and the drought of 1668 just about ruined them. The final blow came when the Barbados court ruled that the Abbey be returned to Berringer’s children.

In 1669, the couple packed their bags and moved to Carolina. John Yeamans became a leading figure in the founding colony. He was appointed Governor after just three years. He died a few years later and Margaret, once again lost and alone, fell into the arms of a new man and remarried.

Today, the two great homes of these men still stand as icons of a different age.

The Abbey, now called St. Nicholas Abbey, was named after Berringer’s granddaughter who married George Nicholas. It is now a designated historic property and a working plantation and rum distillery that is open for public viewing.

Yeamans’ legacy in Barbados ended with John. There were no more deaths from duels in Barbados. Round House, built of solid coral with walls that are several feet thick, has survived its rugged environment. Today the Round House is a fine guest-house and restaurant.

This story is based on fact, but the account in Campbell’s History of Barbados indicates that Berringer was poisoned and not shot. Whichever the case, it is thought that Yeamans killed Berringer or had him killed so that he could inherit his estate and his wife. The estate was eventually sold to the Cumberbatch brothers for payment of back taxes.

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The British Take Barbados

iT sat like a coral rock, thick with woods, sticking out of the sea and miles away from anywhere, standing lost, forgotten and unwanted.

It had been home to tribes from the Amazon who paddled all the way there. God only knows why. Can you imagine leaving South America in a canoe to go to Barbados when it had no roads, no electricity, no tourists even? You had to be mad. The seas are raging around the dragon mouth in the first parish off Venezuela. The tides run faster than an army could paddle. The waves are mountainous at times. Why would anyone want to paddle over 500 miles to an island they don’t even know exists?

The Spanish were not mad; they knew a thing or two about value and Barbados did not shine like an emerald way back then. The Spaniards, along with the Portuguese, raided the island and captured the original settlers, taking them home as slaves. Some Arawaks and Carib settlers left of their own accord to avoid capture. By the time the British ships landed, the island appeared to be uninhabited and unwanted.

Only years later was it called the Gem of the Caribbean, and that was by the Merrymen who had a vested interest. For all intents and purposes, it was just a scrap of land set apart from other scraps of islands in the Caribbean with no earthly use except maybe as a port. Even that was a miserable attempt. St. Lucia had the Marigot Bay and Rodney Bay, and lots of shelters where a whole navy could hide away from an enemy or a storm.

Barbados had none of that. But still Sir William Courten’s advisors said to him,

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Barbados may have seemed to have no earthly use even as a port, but still Sir William Courten’s advisors said to him,“Sir William, you should consider a bit of an investment in the Caribbean. It’s going to be an important trade route to South America.”

Now that was bad advice if you ever heard it. Trade routes my foot! Barbados was way out of the way. The ships that sailed from Europe could make it to South America all on their own with no help from any island.

Sir William took the gamble on Barbados by accident really. His fleet of some 20 ships and 5000 men traded with Guinea, Portugal and Spain. They successfully traded silks and linen from his hometown of London. “Why not add the Caribbean?” he thought. After all, his advisors thought it was a good idea. So he dispatched Captain John Powell to scout the area and bring back news of opportunities.

Well, the rest is history. John Powell found Barbados, uninhabited and unwanted. Sir William sent a petition to King James right away. The King owed him a bit of money. Things were a bit tight for the royals right then and Sir William Courten was one of those gentry and successful businessmen who could help out the Crown with the occasional loan. King James now returned the favour by granting him the right to colonize the island. It was some-thing kings did back then, quite often it seems. Not that Parliament cared much for it.

In fact, they very much disapproved of royalty behaving like feudal landlords, making money on customs and excise and favours for all sorts of things that they in Parliament knew nothing of. “You can’t run a country like that,” they thought. So they had a war, appointing young firebrand Oliver Crom-well as commander of all, and said “No Way” to the King. A few years after, Charles I, James’ son, took over and carried on the family business, so to speak. But never mind all that. The point is that Willy got his island and promptly sent two ships with 1850 persons - friends and businessmen along with young-blooded youths who would work the land for them. Slaves they were, and they knew it; mostly Irish and Scottish.

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Sir William could have been sitting pretty, because Barbados was set to become the world’s largest producer of sugar and he and his company would have a bit of all of that action. Well, it did not turn out quite that way. King James had already given away most of the Caribbean to someone else. The Earl of Carlisle, as it turned out, got all islands between 10 degrees and 20 degrees longitude. Un-fortunately for Sir William, that included Barbado, sitting at 13 degrees. Seems King James forgot, or just did not check the geography. Easy to do when you are a king and have bigger things to worry about.

Sir William took it to the courts but things did not go his way, and then all hell broke loose when the civil war began and Oliver Cromwell demanded King Charles I be tried for treason.

It took a few years to settle that score. First they thought all was settled, as Oliver said it would be, when they chopped off the King’s head. Nasty spectacle that was. I suppose the crowd thought it would never really happen and that the axe man would stop on his swing or miss or something. Several axe men refused the job and the one who took it on insisted on wearing a mask so no one would know who he was. So when Charles lost his head, the crowd wailed and wept and went funny. It was then that the English tide turned against the Parliamentarians and a new civil war began. There were still camps on one side or the other, but it was the beginning of the end for an England without its royal head.

For all of the war up until Charles I was executed, Barbados remained neutral. It was decreed by the Gov-ernor that any man who was overheard talking about the war and voicing any sort of opinion on Royalists and Par-liament would have to hold a big party for everyone in earshot and a few others besides. They had to put on a roast turkey with stuffing and all the trimmings and plen-ty to drink.

That is really all it took to keep Barbados neutral for most of the time.

All through the British civil war, both sides sent their prisoners of war to Barbados. “Being Barbadosed” was what they called it. Seeing as Cromwell was winning most of the time, the men that were Barbadosed were mostly Royalists. Still, the island developed distinct groups; the Roundheads of James Drax and the Royalists of Hum-

phrey and Edward Waldron. Differences of opinion were buried in plantation soil and the families married and en-gaged socially with good humour right up until Charles’ execution.

The Waldron brothers, enraged at the execution of the King, gathered the Royalist cavaliers to the cause and began to take control of the island. A declaration of loyalty to Charles II was made on May 3rd, 1650. There were skirmishes and manoeuvres by both sides, but the fact was that Royalists were now the majority of British on the island. James Drax was put under house arrest and later fined 80,000 pounds of sugar. He left for England shortly after. Many of his fellow Roundhead plantation owners suffered far worse. Tongues were cut and cheeks branded with a “T” for traitor. Then, Barbados again settled into living with Roundheads and Royalists as neighbour and friend, but under a Royal flag.

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There are many ways to spend your days on holiday in Barbados. For the independent -minded traveller, renting a car and driving around the island is often the pre-ferred vacation transport. Taxis are good for private and independent tours, and the buses give a very local experience of the people and the island. ZR vans are loud, fast and sometimes reckless and are not for the faint at heart. They are a unique and inexpensive way to get around and fun if you have the right attitude. ZRs are taxi vans licensed for specific routes. At a rate of two dollars a trip they aim to maximize their revenues by speed and by never missing an opportunity to add a passenger even if full, it seems. They race the traffic, pass cars impatiently and stop abruptly to pick up a new fare, whenever and wherever they can.

If you are staying at Settlers Beach on their special Heritage Holiday Package, after you have taken the Abbey tour, rent a car or get your taxi to take you south to Car-lisle Bay to see the Savannah Race Horses running on the beach and swimming in the early morning. Get there early - at about 7 am. and check with your hotel when are the best days. It’s not a perfectly planned affair as horses and trainers set the agenda on a whim, need and weather.

For Something Completely Different See The Horses Swim...

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The horses are a historic heritage of the island dating back hundreds of years. The race track at the Garrison Savannah is part of the UNESCO world heritage site that covers the capital city Bridgetown and its Garrison. The track is the oldest racetrack in the western hemisphere and horses from all over the world come here for the renowned Sandy

Lane Gold Cup Races, run annually in late February/early March since 1982.

You don’t have to love horse racing to enjoy the beauty and majesty of these wonder-ful animals. The owners and handlers walk the horses down to the beach many morn-ings to exercise them on the sand and in the water. The BBC did an entire series on this and other aspects of the Barbados race horse heritage.

The area has excellent restaurants, museums, beaches and duty free shopping. You can walk to Bridgetown and its duty free shopping from here. It’s a bit of a zig zag but a fun walk along the beach to the careenage (http://barbados.org/maps_google.htm?mapPoint=165) and over the bridge into town.

Hang out on the beach, watch the horses, swim and have breakfast at the hotels in the

area. The Hilton and Radisson are the largest and both are just a short beach walk south of Carlisle Bay. Radisson, just past the Barbados Yacht Club serves breakfast on the pier. It is a picturesque place to watch the day start.

While in this area (Hastings) visit the museums, and have a fish cutter at Cuz on Pebbles Beach right beside the Radisson. Cuz is a shack on the beach that is listed in Zagat’s popular guide.

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Six Men’s Bay is just a short drive from St. Nicholas Abbey. You can visit both the Abbey and drive by Six Men’s to pickup a fresh catch for dinner, all in a single after-noon. Or you can do a trip around the area and drive into the interior, to the rainforest-like area of Flower Forest, Hunte’s Garden, Harrison’s Cave, Welshman Hall Gully, Turners Hall Woods and even Andromeda.

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guests will seek out the people we feature and some will do business with them.Stop by Six Men’s Bay, have a beer at “Man’s Beer Bar” and get some delicious fruit at the stand opposite. If you are staying in a self-catering villa or apartment, pick up some fish and cook it.

Pot fish cleaned by Sarge is ready to dip in flour and fry in a little butter and oil. It’s delicious. “Cook” is a solid fish that is chewy - the other pot fish was softer and we liked it better. For a small fish for frying, it’s hard to beat flying fish.

Sarge told us the largest fish they caught was Marlin, it weighted 1,000 pounds. It had to be cut in two to bring it ashore.

A very long time ago, in the days of whaling, when Speightstown was the capital of Barbados and its main fishing port, they caught a whale and tied it to the jetty. Every man, woman and child came to the jetty with pots and pans and gathered dinner and lunch for several days, it was very much an event then.

On this night, 2 pounds of fresh pot fish with tomato sal-ad was on the menu. We picked up some more fruits and vegetables (avocado and sugar apples) at the stall acrossfrom ‘Man’s Beer Bar’ and had dinner on our terrace under the stars.

Be sure to visit this real life fishing village and enjoy the people, the scenery and the natural charm.

Here is an account of a rather distinctively charming adventure that ended up doing just that. We took the ABC highway to Warrens, then drove North-East past Lion Castle Polo Estate in St. Thomas and on to the Flower For-est. From there we drove around St. Andrew and got a little lost. But you are never far away from a main road or beach and there are always friendly Bajans around to give you directions.

The landscape is hilly and in some places very much like a rainforest. We passed rainbows and streams in lush wooded areas and headed down to Belleplaine, picking up some delicious homegrown, bright red and plum-like tomatoes for dinner. Eleven plum fruit for $5.00 US. We would pass by Six Men’s Bay later and meet up with the fishermen bringing in their catch in the afternoon.

Six Men’s Bay is a picturesque fishing village. In the old days, men built boats here and there are still a few boats built along the shores just up toward the Fish Pot Restaurant.

We stopped and talked to Sarge who was cleaning fish. He arranged for us to buy some cooked - a red snapper type reef fish. We paid $9 US for two pounds of fish and Sarge cleaned and scaled them for $2.50 US.

Sarge allowed us to take some video of his deft work on the fish. “I don’t normally let anyone take pic-tures,” he reminded me, after I got the camera out of the car. I had asked him if we could take some shots and he immediately asked, “Why?” “I would like to put them on our website at Barbados.org,” I said. “So the whole world can see me?” he replied. I had to agree that many people might see the photos and video; it’s a very popular website and it is seen all over the world, but it could be good for business and good for Barbados. Sarge did not like the idea at all, so we dropped it. Later he agreed and added: “How you come by here? Must be you are angels and God sent you cause I never let anyone “tek” pictures of me.”

Sarge, like many Bajans, is wary of having his picture seen all over the world, especially if someone else is making money off of it. It’s important that you ask if it’s OK and be sure to explain what you are going to do with the im-ages. In our case we try to give local artisans, vendors and small scale entrepreneurs free exposure on our Barbados Encyclopaedia. We know that visitors to Barbados enjoy meeting real local people and gaining insight into their very special way of life. As they say, “life was not invented in Barbados, it was just perfected here”. In many cases,

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fresh fish

Holidays Exclusively Yours

holidays.barbados.org a brand new site by the people who developed the Barbados Tourism Encyclopaedia and the most popular site on Barbados, Barbados.org, has just launched a new break-through site that is unlike any other travel site we know of.

Kathy-Lynn Ward COO of AXSES AllCast Marketing & Video Production, sums it up with these words: “The new site is really a showcase of the ingenuity of Bajans who have achieved many first-of-a-kind innovations in travel: From the first Facebook bookings engine for independent hotel, the first real-time travel planning system with matchmaker intelligence and lately the first visual plan-

ning behaviour responsive technology for travel.”

Ward goes on to say that all this innovation is now in-cluded in the first ever visual behaviour responsive travel planning system for tourism that actually profiles users and matches them up with the specific properties of similar character. It is an in-telligent learning system that requires a lot of local knowl-

edge to hand craft and build the expert system that will create the right match between traveller, places to stay and things to do. With 30 characteristics - in addition to the typical hotel features - there are simply hundreds of ways that hotels and shoppers can be matched.

The new technology, called hol-idays-exclusivelyours.com, will be rolled out shortly and already there is keen interest from some of the major tourism players.Here is brief example of how it works.

 

young-at-heart, whimsical

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http://holidays-exclusivelyours.com

http://holidays.barbados.org

Travelers are greeted with a simple, easy-to-use and engaging front page with a fullscreen broadcast video of a Barbados beach with waves washing on shore over the shadow of a coconut palm in the early morning. There are just 3 options - Stay, Plan and Discover.

When you choose “Stay” you instantly see a Pinterest- style carousel of intelligently selected properties. As you click on options, such as, location, budget, lodging type and features, the screen instantly reconfigures to your choice. It is is highly interactive and visual.

 

 

But what is really exciting is what goes on behind the scenes. Each click is associated with traits and each choice is interpreted on a psychological level and verified with subsequent selections. All this information is analyzed to build unique profile of the you the shopper.

This personality profile is important because every hotel, apartment, villa and resort is classified according to its personality and style. And that is where local knowledge comes in. The team that built the system, the booking engine and the technology are all Bajans and they know every manager and the character of each hotel.

You can imagine the matchmaking possibilities. Each user gets a match based on their own individual likes, aided by the expert system that actually learns what you like from what you choose. It translates that into the personality traits of the hotel you may most likely stay in.

To give a taste of how this works the team has come up with 5 categories of users, which they call the “sophis-ticates”. These are: the AristoCat, the PractiCat, the CasualCat, the RustiCat and the FrugalCat. These Cats are just 5 of the endless possibilities. You can see the results in the pages that follow.

holidays-exclusivelyours.com

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AristoCat

The ArtistoCat is the top cat. Aristo wants total relaxation in the ultimate in luxury. AristoCats like the West Coast because of its typically understated and unpretentious elegance.

http://holidays.barbados.org/aristocat/

IndiCat

Independent Cats like space and the freedom to roam. They like to do their own thing. Self-catering villas or apartments are a good match for these independent-minded travellers.

http://holidays.barbados.org/indicat/

PractiCat

Practical Cats are fine with luxury but they do like to have home amenities such as a refrigerator and cook tops. These are an asset for those times when you don’t want to go out. If that is unavailable, then an all-inclusive holiday is a practical idea as well as a good alternative for the PractiCat who wants it all - A no-planning, no-cooking, no-hassle cat.

http://holidays.barbados.org/practicat/

charming educated elegant established stylish subtle traditional wise, savvy sophisticated affluent refined

adventurous cool, hip creative dynamic family natural fun loving unique artistic vibrant oriented unpretentious colourful

casual comfortable family- natural sensible welcoming relaxed homey oriented unpretentious practical friendly

CasualCat

Casual cats are a bit more hip and tend to like the South Coast for its approachable hustle and bustle and lots to do. CasualCats are not big on formality and avoid pomp and circumstance. But they will dress up on occasion for certain occasions, maybe wearing gym shoes with their tidy suit.

http://holidays.barbados.org/casualcat/

RustiCat

RustiCats are the wild cats of travel. They like wild, windy and more rugged landscapes and places of character. Most of the Barbados East Coast is considered a home for RustiCats. They also like places like the Crane on the south, a windswept shore where the Atlantic and Caribbean Sea meet.

http://holidays.barbados.org/rusticat/

FrugalCat

The FrugalCats are sophisticates because they love Barbados and all who love Barbados love it because it is warm and generous, friendly and unpretentious. Those who love it understand these qualities exist in its people and places no matter what your budget. They prefer the guest houses and the friendly and inexpensive accommodation that are charming all the same.

http://holidays.barbados.org/frugalcat/

casual comfortable cool fun-loving natural welcoming relaxed homey hip unpretentious friendly

rustic adventurous casual fun-loving healthy natural romantic young-at-heart active relaxed sporty unpretentious dreamy whimsical

natural relaxed fun-loving friendly unpretentious casual welcoming

http://holidays.barbados.org/travelers-profiles/

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barbados

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For something completely different, take time out beneath the waves in the dry, safe comfort of the Atlantis Submarine as it explores the coral reefs, ship wrecks and habitats of the colourful tropical fish. This undersea tour adventure is a fully narrated and fun outing for all the family (children have to be 3 feet in height) that will create unforgettable underwater memories.

Atlantis submarines tours are one of the top adventures in Barbados. Guests get a dive certificate to show they have been down deep on an Atlantis Submarine.

Here is what one happy submariner had to say:

“I had a great time watching life beneath the sea. It was just like one of those movies where a submarine cruises under the sea to reveal the the magic without disturbing its serenity. The constant guide from the crew was really helpful and luckily we got to watch turtles..! A must-do when you visit Barbados!”

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* Special offer subject to availability and must be booked before showing up. Offer may be terminated at any time. Check for availability and best discount at the time of booking.

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AUTHORIan R. Clayton © 2016 available on itunes.travelersinsights.comPhotography Ian Clayton & Kristine Dear ©

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