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I first traveled to Korea in the winter of 2007, staying all of 39 hours in Seoul just to visit Gyeongbukgong Palace and a temple. But in that short time, I instantly fell in love with the city’s

youthful vibe and I vowed to come back one day.

PUMPED AND ENERGIZED I took the night flight from Manila to Incheon International Airport on Jeju Air, arriving early in the morning in time for a full day of sightseeing. Immediately, I headed for Insadong, an area well-known for art galleries, antique shops, and stores selling traditional clothing (hanbok) and handicrafts. The main street was truly a multisensory experience, with aromas of grilled squid and octopus, colorful hanbok and trinkets lining the sidewalks, and the cheery, almost theatrical voices of the kkultarae vendors filling the air.

Kkultarae is a traditional court cake made of 16,000 strings of honey and filled with a paste of walnuts, almond, peanuts, pine nuts, black beans, and black sesame seeds.

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FOODTRIPPING IN KIMCHI LAND

CEIA YLAGAN eats her way through South Korea

Banchan at Si Wha Dam

Radish Kimchi

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My first Korean lunch was samgyetang, a ginseng chicken soup made from whole young chicken, cleaned and filled with glutinous rice, ginseng, dried jujubes, garlic, and ginger. It’s boiled in water until the broth turns white, and usually served with radish kimchi and salt and pepper. This is usually eaten during hot summer days—particularly on the four hottest days of the year—as Koreans believe it energizes the body and prevents illness. This was the perfect beginning for my hectic trip.

FOODIE PARADISENext, I visited Gwangjang Market in the Jongno district, the oldest market in Seoul. Built in 1904, it’s also one of the biggest markets in Korea, with an estimated 35,000 visitors daily. Locals come here to buy ready-made hanbok, fabrics and accessories used on special occasions, and mother-of-pearl decorations, among others. But its main attraction is the food market, where locals head for snacks and meals. Vendors don’t speak much English, but you can always point your way through a satisfying meal.

Walking through the food alleys is pure joy for a certified foodie. The smell of fried vegetables covered in crispy batter is enough incentive to look around, while large pots of noodles topped with bright orange carrot strips and dark green spinach leaves tease your appetite. Trays filled with chunks of pig parts and unfamiliar, almost menacing-looking, thick and dark sausages covered the counters of many stalls.

One of the must-tries in Gwangjang Market is bindaetteok, a fried pancake made of ground mung beans, pork, bean sprouts, and vegetables. I loved the golden brown crust on a freshly cooked bindaetteok dipped in a soy sauce, vinegar, and onion mixture. This snack is filling and also fascinating to watch in the making. Bindaetteok vendors make the batter from grinding the mung beans on a turning stone grinder, mixing it with spring onions and other ingredients, and simultaneously frying about 12 large bindaetteok at once.

There is also the popular gimbap. Gimbap is similar to sushi—a strip of dried seaweed is filled with sticky rice seasoned with sesame oil, strips of pickled radish and carrots. Those looking for a more filling meal can also order a serving of fish cake broth or a plate of chapchae, stir-fried glass noodles seasoned with sesame oil, carrots and spinach.

More adventurous eaters should try soondae. This is a steamed pig intestine stuffed with glass noodles, rice, vegetables, meat and pig’s blood. It’s similar to blood sausage, but is often served with boiled pig’s liver and heart. Although made from blood, the flavor isn’t overwhelming and, in fact, it’s even slightly bland; so it’s best to dip it in salt seasoned with red chili peppers.

Locals recommend pairing soondae with tteukbokki, which is a rice cake in a spicy red sauce. Boiled pig’s feet or jokbal are also available with soondae, served with a dipping sauce of fermented shrimp. I also tried the jeon, which are fried pancakes made with kimchi, seafood, meat, green onions, mushrooms, and even whole chili peppers.

It’s best to visit Gwangjang Market on an empty stomach and with a spirit for adventure, as there are so many delightful dishes to try. Pair these snacks with a bottle of makgeolli, a milky-white, traditional rice wine, for a truly local experience.

Dak galbi

Chapchae, tripre and jokbal

Assorted jeon

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ISLAND FAREThe next day I set off for Nami Island, a half-moon shaped island in the Chuncheon region, named after General Nami, who defended King Sejo’s kingdom from rebels in the 15th century.

Nami Island is popular with local families for its serene surroundings. Meanwhile, K-pop fans the world over are very familiar with this destination because some of the most famous scenes in the Korean drama, Winter Sonata, were shot here. The island is lovely in autumn when the gingko, birch, chestnut, and maple trees turn a beautiful golden hue.

After exploring the island, I had lunch at Sumhyanggi, a local restaurant that serves dak galbi, a special grilled marinated chicken originally from Chuncheon City. Dak galbi is traditionally made by stir-frying pieces of chicken, cabbage, scallions, onions, sweet potatoes, and rice cake in a red chili paste called gochujang. It’s a favorite picnic food of the locals, and the top choice for lunch among university students low on budget.

However, the version I tasted at Sumhyanggi was slightly different. The chicken thigh was instead marinated in gochujang paste, and then later cooked on a charcoal grill. Like any Korean meal, this came with a selection of banchan or side dishes such as cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi, and bean sprouts.

Dak galbi can be eaten with rice or wrapped in lettuce leaves or a variety of greens such as perilla, along with sliced garlic and your choice of banchan. It’s always dipped in ssamjang, a red pepper paste with fermented soybean paste.

DINNER ON A MOUNTAINAfter lunch, I drove to Mt. Seorak, near the eastern coast of South Korea. It’s the second largest national park in Korea and a very popular destination in the fall. A short cable car ride and a 15-minute trek up to Mt. Gwongeumseong revealed the full beauty of this rocky mountain range.

By then, it was growing chillier by the minute and I was craving for a hearty dinner. It was the perfect night for a galbi and samgyeopsal dinner at Sik Gaek at the Seorak Del Pino Golf & Resort.

Samgyeopsal is a slab of unmarinated pork that’s grilled on a tabletop charcoal grill. The pork, when cooked, is cut into bite-size pieces with scissors then placed on a leafy green vegetable, along with a slice of garlic and your choice of banchan—kimchi, bean sprouts, sautéed spinach, pickled radish. Then it’s topped off with a dash of ssamjang and gochujang, rolled up and eaten by hand. The samgyeopsal is usually served with a slice of white onion and oyster mushrooms.

An alternative to samgyeopsal is galbi or marinated pork. This is very similar to dak galbi, but it uses beef or pork that is typically marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and sugar and eaten in the same way as samgyeopsal. Other variations include sesame oil, rice wine, or chili peppers.

Samgyeopsal and galbi are best accompanied mulnaengmyeon, bibimnaengmyeon or soup and rice. Mulnaengmyeon are buckwheat noodles in a cold, sour broth while bibimnaengmyeon are buckwheat noodles in a spicy sauce. Both are topped with pickled radish and cucumbers, hard-boiled egg, and meat. The cold noodles are said to lower one’s body temperature, so these are perfect for a hot summer’s day.

Nami Island

Lotus tea and jelly from Si Wha Dam

Samgyeopsal

A KING’S FEASTOn my way back to Seoul, I stopped by a restaurant that served hanjeongsik, a full-course Korean meal traditionally served to royalty and aristocrats. The variety of side dishes for this Korean version of a degustation meal depends on what ingredients are in season within the region.

I tasted shredded cabbage salad, creamy pumpkin soup, pickled vegetables, kimchi, kimchi pancake, noodles, and raw fish salad. Rice is served last, in a special cooking vessel. The proper way to eat this it to take all the rice out from the cooking vessel and transfer it to a bowl. Water is then poured into the now almost empty cooking vessel with the toasted remnants of rice. Once the meal is finished, the soaked rice and water are eaten as a soupy dessert.

A hanjeongsik meal is usually expensive because it’s labor-intensive and it uses premium ingredients. However, the price is worth it as it best showcases the variety of ingredients and cooking styles in Korea, as well as the country’s colorful culture and history. The dishes range from simple to complex textures, colors, and flavors, for an enjoyable evening and a real multisensory experience.

PLATES OF POETRYA beautiful contrast to the hanjeongsik meal is the full-course lunch I had at the Si Wha Dam restaurant in Insadong. Si Wha Dam is a fine dining restaurant known for serving Korean fusion cuisine—where art and poetry meet on the plate. The restaurant’s name itself speaks volumes about their cooking: “Si” means poetry, “Wha” means painting, and “Dam” means story.

Each dish served was either an artwork, a poem, or a story, with enticing names like “Korean Lunch Box,” “When Kimchi Meets Pasta,” and “Bowls of Blowing Wind from Salt Ponds and the Flower of Salt.” They were carefully put together, using local ingredients and incorporating traditional cooking styles with modern techniques, to create delicately flavored food that reflected both tradition and modernity.

Even the dishes used are symbolic of Korean culture. The kimchi pasta dish, for instance, was as picturesque as it was tasty; it was placed on a bowl shaped like an inverted Korean farming hat.

EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRYOn my last night in Seoul, my hosts took me for an authentic night out, Seoul style. We had a hearty dinner of andong jjimdak, a chicken dish that is typically boiled in Korean soy sauce and cooked with vegetables, resulting in a slightly sweet and spicy dish.

After dinner, we proceeded to Nonhyeon-dong in Gangnam. Glasses with a shot of soju were filled to the brim with beer, and I watched as our hosts downed one after another the beer-soju mixture which fizzed and bubbled excitedly. Our industrial-strength drinks were accompanied by bar chow including grilled fish, soondae, and Spam and an omelette (go figure) generously drizzled with catsup and mayonnaise.

INSTANT SURPRISEBut the highlight of the night was the stainless steel lunchbox (dosirak) filled with rice, fried egg, luncheon meat, and kimchi. My Korean hosts showed us how to eat this bento box of sorts: you hold the lid tightly, shake vigorously, and – voila – you instantly have your own bibimbap. They said it reminded them of their school lunches back in the day.

I realized that Koreans truly love their cuisine and are extremely proud of their culinary heritage. Each meal tells the story of their history; each dish reflects their appreciation and respect for the bounties of the earth.

On that last cold autumn night in Seoul, drinking soju and beer by the roadside, my companions and I looked back on our adventures with full stomachs and just a little bit of a high. n

Special thanks to Jeju Air and the Korean Tourism Organization

Ceia Ylagan flew Jeju Air to South Korea. Jeju Air departs daily from Manila’s NAIA Terminal 1 to Incheon International Airport. www.jejuairph.com.

Samgyeopsal

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NAVIGATEYOURSELF

Seoul

NEED TO KNOWSeoul is the capital of South Korea, one of the most developed countries in the world. It is the headquarters of some of the world’s biggest brands, including Samsung, Hyundai, and LG. In the past few years, Korea’s entertainment industry has become more popular around the world with the younger generation with the spread of the Korean wave known as “Hallyu.”

TRAVELER’S CHECKLISTA visa is required for tourists visiting South Korea. Contact the Embassy of Korea: 122 Upper McKinley Rd., McKinley Town Center, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig | Tel. (63)(2) 856-9210 | embassy_philippines.mofat.go.kr

EXCHANGE RATE 1 USD = 1119.50 Won

TIME DIFFERENCE Seoul is ahead of Manila by one hour.

PHILIPPINE EMBASSY IN SEOUL#5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul www.philembassy-seoul.com

WHEN TO GOSouth Korea is beautiful in the autumn – from late September until November –when the temperature dips and the leaves turn a rusty gold. Spring from April to June is also a lovely time to see the flowers, particularly the cherry blossoms in bloom.

WHERE TO GOGYEONGBUKGONG PALACE The “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven” stands at the heart of the city and it’s the largest palace from the Joseon Dynasty. It was severely damaged during the Japanese occupation and restoration is still undergoing. Don’t miss Geunjeongjeon, the main throne hall, and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion where the formal banquets were once held. royalpalace.go.kr

NATIONAL FOLK MUSEUM OF KOREA Learn more about Korean traditions and culture from the prehistoric times to the present. Don’t miss the “Life Passages” exhibit which showcases the Korean life cycle, marking important events in a lifetime. www.nfm.go.kr

NAMI ISLAND Couples looking for romantic getaway and families seeking a relaxing holiday should not miss Nami Island. The half-moon shaped island boasts of tree-lined pathways that are beautiful in autumn. Rent a tandem bike and explore the island’s memorable Winter Sonata spots, or just ramble through the island’s many gardens. www.namisum.com

MT. SEORAK NATIONAL PARKTake a cable car ride up to Mt. Gwongeumseong, and then trek for 15 minutes to the peak for a view of the stunning landscape of the Seorak mountain range. Nature lovers are encouraged to explore the valleys and waterfalls within the park, as there are a number of hiking and trekking trails. english.knps.or.kr

EVERLAND THEME PARK The largest theme park in Asia is the perfect place to take the family. There are five zones with rides to appeal to every age group. Adventure seekers will be thrilled with the T Express, the first wooden roller coaster in Korea and also the world’s steepest wooden roller coaster. www.everland.com

LOTTE WORLD Seoul’s largest recreation complex, Lotte World is a shopping center, museum, entertainment hub, and indoor and outdoor amusement park all in one. K-pop fans will gravitate towards Star Avenue, an exhibition area featuring Korea’s hottest actors, singers, and bands, while shopaholics will be pleased with the Lotte Duty Free and Lotte Shopping Center. Experience the thrill of your life with popular rides such as the Gyro Drop, Pharaoh’s Fury, and Atlantic Adventure. www.lotteworld.com

MBC DRAMIAFans of Koreanovelas must visit this outdoor set where popular Korean dramas such as Jewel in the Palace, Jumong, and Queen Seondok have been filmed. The compound houses several period sets including a palace, a peasant village, a village market, and battlegrounds—all of which have been carefully researched and recreated. withmbc.imbc.com/dramia/main

Lotte World