Emily’s Notebook

DECEMBER 2014 TRENDINSIGHTMAG.COM

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014Approximately 900 running specialty retailers traveled to The Running Event (TRE) in Austin on Dec. 2 to 5 to see the latest footwear, apparel and accessories from over 300 manufacturers.

INSIDETake Aways from TRE14

Textile Tech & Trends

Industry Direction

Cool Looks & Hot Colors

Charts, Chatter & Stats

The Show Itself

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TREND INSIGHT™ is a trademark of Formula4Media, LLC. © 2014 all rights reserved.

The opinions by authors and contributors to Trend Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers.

Articles appearing in Trend Insight may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission

of the publisher. Formula4Media, LLC, P.O. Box 23-1318, Great Neck, NY 11023. Tel: 516-305-4710.

Publisher ..................................Jeff Nott: jnott@formula4media.com

Editor-in-Chief ................Emily Walzer: emilywalzer@sbcglobal.net

Contributor ..........................................................................Kurt Gray

Art Director ..................................................................Francis Klaess

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BACK ISSUEStrendinsightmag.com

Key Take Aways from the Show

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How Do You Solve a Problem Like Apparel?That’s a big question in the run biz right now. After disappointing clothing sales in 2014 (down 12%), many retailers are frustrated with the category and puzzled as to how to successfully fit the apparel piece into their footwear and accessory mix. Vendors are responding with a more defined, thoughtful approach to clothing lines. Collections are pared down, with clearer targets, be it tech or training or crossover styles. Some brands bring a strong women’s focus, noting that this is where the action is, while still others point to potential in lifestyle. A few bold retailers are responding by broadening apparel SKUs with brands like Patagonia, Prana, and Lole, and devoting significant floor space to clothing. These dealers recognize that selling apparel is a skill set worth learning to profit in the long run. 1. Zoot brings a surf lifestyle vibe with a board short built for running. 2. Brooklyn-based Only Atoms features local production and functional designs. 3. Brooks integrates technical reflective into crossover looks. 4. Saxx men’s underwear range offers a wide selection of styles. 5. Danish brand Newline makes inroads with super-lightweight apparel and sophisticated palette. 6. Craft’s women’s jacket pops with color and tech. 7. ASICS jacket detail. 8. Zoot apparel director Shawn O’Shea cites growth opportunity in men’s category.

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

Introducing PurThread, and a new era in antimicrobial textiles.

KEEP IT PUR.Keep it simple with PurThread.

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PLAYS NICE. Despite powerful antimicrobial protection,PurThread feels and functions like typical fabric. It blends easilywith other yarns, dyes well, and requires no special handling bythe manufacturer or consumer. PurThread is Made in the USA.

WORKS HARD. We infuse powerful EPA-registered silverinto the core of PurThread’s revolutionary fiber. Even after100 industrial washings, PurThread never stops working tokeep clothes and equipment fresh and free from mold,mildew, fungus, and odor-causing bacteria.

PurWhite | PurBlack | PurColor

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Smarter, Sleeker, Swifter Wires are out; shirts and socks are in. In an age when people are looking to minimize distraction, and maximize wellness, smart textiles are making major inroads. One of the brainiest textiles around comes in the form of hosiery. Called Sensoria, the good-looking product has conductive wires and sensor knit right in. Worn with a stealth FitBit-like anklet, users can track fitness step by step. Runners can also get training tips from a Bonkgear t-shirt by simply scanning a QR code stitched into the garment. Seamless construction and super-lightweight materials are helping to advance this wearable tech trend. Body mapping and new semi-fitted silhouettes up performance without one bit of extra bulk in tops, tights and hosiery. Clever design details further streamline products. Not to miss: intelligent venting options, aka “heat dumps,” in outerwear. 1. Ink & Burn’s novel print technique provides vibrant color and artwork on performance fabric in look-alike jeans. 2. ASICS graffiti print footwear. 3. Bonkgear features a QR code loaded with training tips. 4. Sensoria sock with anklet device heightens wearable tech in terms of feedback and wearability. 5. Gore Runningwear’s innovative venting construction keeps runners comfortable. 6. New company Virtus elevates body-mapping design. 7. Insulated jackets, like this one from 2XU, are becoming popular. 8. Zensah introduces seamless tops with body-mapped performance.

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

Textile Tech and Material Trends

gore-tex.com/running

Experience more

© 2014 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc. GORE-TEX®, GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY®, GORE®, and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates

Highly Breathable

Durably Waterproof With GORE-TEX®

Footwear TechnologyYour favorite running shoes just got better, the weather app on your phone less relevant, and your run better protected from the elements. Because the most trusted brands in running have integrated durably waterproof, windproof, and breathable GORE-TEX® footwear technology in some of their most iconic road running styles. So any day can be a great day for a run.

52º

GREAT DAY FOR A RUN

47º 35º 28º 33º

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Sock HappyAnother day, another sock innovation. And runners are buying into it big time as socks are now upwards of a $50M biz. Performance yarns like Nilit Breeze and Cupron along with developments in reflective yarn technology and increased use of wool add to the stampede of high-tech offerings. Compression remains a must-have, but now with enhanced fit from arch support to calf comfort. On the fashion front, color remains a major driver, as women in particular want hosiery to match an outfit as well as their footwear. This year the color palette is especially wide ranging from vibrant pinks and berries, electric blues and greens, to muted browns and heather tones. But according to a major industry player the real reason for a soaring sock market is a simple fact: “Socks make people happy.”1. FITS shows off a range of “full contact fit” socks including the new Ultra Light Runner No Show in foreground. 2. Darn Tough blends fun with function in these cowboy-boot print inspired wool performance socks. 3. Swiftwick is on trend with this season’s color palette. 4. 1000 Mile Ultra Performance sock features Cupron yarn effective against odor causing bacteria. 5. Another 1000 Mile model uses a performance cooling yarn in the new Breeze style. 6. Balega provides enhanced comfort and a blitz of bright color. 7. DeFeet debuts an innovative reflective yarn in its Meta 1 Reflector low-top running sock.

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

Gains in the Sock Market

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* Capstone® repellents for Tefl on® fabric protector utilize short-chain molecules that cannot break down to PFOA in the environment.Capstone® repellents meet the goals of the U.S. EPA 2010/15 PFOA Stewardship Program.

Copyright © 2014 DuPont. All rights reserved. The DuPont Oval Logo, DuPont™, Capstone® and Tefl on® are trademarks or registered trademarks of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company or its affi liates.

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Grl Powr Not that long ago, the saying was, “shrink it and pink it” in terms of creating women’s products. Well, R.I.P to all that. Proper sizing and support features, improved fit, easy care, sensible designs and lifestyle options, are all on the roster for female runners in 2015. Progress in the sport bra category brings a variety of sophisticated constructions allowing for products made to fit sizes and shapes ranging from petite to extra plus. In footwear, women’s shoes show off their own aesthetic – right down to mesh selection and logo interpretation. Across the board, function is key, but innovation in the comfort department through fit and materials is truly enhancing user performance. And a little pink is ok, too.1. Pearl Izumi women’s shoes use distinct materials and logo interpretation to differentiate from men’s styles without any sacrifice to performance. Shown here is the N3 women’s shoe in blue. 2. CW-X gives women’s compression some polka dot pop for Spring 15. 3. A completely re-vamped apparel collection includes the Moving Comfort Collection by Brooks. 4. Retail buyers were treated to on-the-spot bra fitting by SheFit, maker of sports bras for “well endowed” women. 5. Sauce headwear is topped off with feminine details. 6. Oiselle continues to advance stylish, yet functional apparel with its first bralette. 7. New Balance offers sports bra options including this racer-back silhouette.

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

Category to Watch

www.ortholite.com

ORTHOLITE® PROPRIETARY FOAM TECHNOLOGY KEEPS FEET COOLER, DRIER, HEALTHIER, AND HAPPIER. THE WORLD’S LEADING BRANDS TRUST ORTHOLITE TO DELIVER THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF CUSTOMER SATISFACTION.

BREATHABLE. MOISTURE-WICKING. ANTI-MICROBIAL. LONG-TERM CUSHIONING.

Sales by Category12 Months Ending September 2014

75.7%

15.9%

7.9%

0.6%

EquipmentFootwear Apparel Accessories

Year to Date PerformanceDeclining Sales

Jan 13 - Sept 13

$708,387,021

Jan 14 - Sept 14

$692,227,673

State of Run SecialtyLast 12 Months

Estimated 1,050 +/- Stores

Oct 13 - Sept 14: $896 million

($10 million) decline = -1.1% in last 12 months

6.2+ million pairs of shoes

5.5+ million pairs of running shoes

• Units (-1.4%)

• Dollars (0.3%)

• Avg. Retail ($109.46)

Average Margins - Top 10 Categories12 Months Ending September 2014

Running Shoes

Socks

Active Bottoms

Insoles

Knit Shirts

Wrist Instruments

Energy Food

Casual

First Aid/Body Care

Bras

45.4%

50.5%

46%

57%

45.7%

32.7%

43.6%

50.2%

49.1%

47.1%

Annual Category Growth

20%

10%

0%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

Footwear

Apparel

Other

Category Mix Shifting

100

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

2010200920082007200620052004 2011 2012 2013 2014

Sales by Category (%)

Footwear

Apparel

Other

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Charts & Chatter

90% of Q4 shopping will take place in brick and mortar this season.

85% of customers say they want personal recommendations & a customized experience.

6 in 10 people say they seek out locally owned businesses.

“After years of steady growth we are starting to see a slow down. Footwear sales are essentially flat. We have to look at strategies for driving the apparel business.” Greg Shoenfeld

NPD Sports

“People want to minimize their accessories. I only want my phone and headphones.” Masooma Ali Jabra

“This is a new generation of hosiery.” Shane Cooper

Founder, DeFeet

“We are an active people store.” Dylan Hammons Legends, Owensboro, KY

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

Industry Direction

www.silvadur.com

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Live from Austin The Running Event is an up-tempo show that attracts an energetic crowd looking to boost their specialty run busi-ness—and have a little fun in Austin—while attending a full lineup of educational seminars and an expo jam-packed with the latest running footwear, ap-parel and accessories from the likes of ASICS, Balega, Mizuno, New Balance, Nike, Reebok and Saucony. Talk of a chang-ing consumer (and changing consumer buying habits), a ma-turing industry, and heightened competition dominated conver-sations throughout the four-day trade event. A provocative Q&A session with Glen Lyon, chairman, The Finish Line and Bill Kirkendall, president, Run-ning Specialty Group, kicked up some dust and got folks talking about the state of retail. Among the 84 new exhibitors at this year’s TRE were Ahnu, Dr. Scholl’s, Helly Hansen, Shock Doctor, Jabra, Hammer Nutrition, and SKLZ, serving as good examples of diversifica-tion within the run biz and how dealers need to address today’s more “well-rounded runner.” Retail attendance was up 12 percent over 2013, a positive in-dicator of not only the strength of the run channel despite a challenging year, but the vitality surrounding TRE. TRE attendees and exhibitors took part in a full range of activities including: 1. Perusing the latest performance footwear. 2. Meeting with running celebs like Meb Keflezighi. 3. Having a pedicure at the Pearl Izumi booth. 4. Participating in a little friendly competition. 5. 6. 7. Enjoying the sights and sounds of Austin.

THE RUNNING EVENT 2014

The Show Itself

EPA Reg. No.88401-1EPA Reg. No.88401-2 www.micropakltd.com

MOLD PREVENTION FROM FACTORY TO RETAIL.

Micro-Pak® stickers and sheets are now registered in

While anti-microbials fall under the jurisdiction of the EPA at a federal level, state authorities may have their own special requirements. As required by state laws, Micro-Pak has now completed registering it's products in all 50 states to ensure that our customers will be in full compliance with both state as well as federal regulations when using Micro-Pak’s anti-microbial packaging.

ALL FIFTY STATES.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2014 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

TRENDS IN APPAREL & FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION

TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM

OR Show PreviewFall ’14 News & Debuts

Designer Q&A Material Matters

Tracking Fiber FraudNew DNA Science Reflective Tech

Really Bright Ideas

The influence of weather on textile development and product design

DEDEEEESESSIGGNN AA

ww www PPPPrPPrPrPrP eeewewwwwwwwswws wwss &&s ws

TRENDS & ANALYSIS ON TEXTILE DESIGN AND INNOVATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

TARGETING SUSTAINABILITYHitting the Mark for a Greener Future

20 executives take aim at goals and initiatives

for 2014 & beyond

European Report Designer Watch

Made in the USAA Dye House Lives

Footwear ClaimsAntimicrobial Alert

Brand StrategiesRefreshing Tech

TXI SO13-06.indd 1 1/23/14 10:56 AM

Footwear Steps Up

Fabric Innovations

Made in America

A Re-Shoring Rally

The Crossover Craze

Fitness Meets Fashion

Cleaner & Greener

Supply Chain Eco Efforts

TRENDS IN APPAREL & FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION

TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM

A NEW TAKE

ON OUTDOOR

JULY/AUGUST 2014 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

MODERN OUTDOOR MOVES TO URBAN TECHNICALECHNICAL

There are two types of retailers:

those who are glad this whole “barefoot

thing” is over so they don’t have to think

about it anymore and those who are

jumping back into the business so they can

make some money now that the hype has

cleared away. For the latter, brands are serv-

ing up a range of new generation product.

Lightweight materials and minimal design

remain hallmarks, but the next generation

of barefoot shoes adds a few new twists

as well. Here’s a look at three new

styles that have caught our eye.

IN THE MARKET | FOOTWEAR

Barefoot 2.0

textileinsight.com

Performance and Style in a Lightweight Package.

Vivobarefoot: The Ultra 2 morphs from an ultralight

minimalist running shoe to a river-ready water shoe,

depending on its surroundings. The zero-drop sole

gives athletes excellent proprioception as they run,

and the molded EVA upper is backed with a stretchy,

removable inner sock. When runners hit the water, the

liner can be removed and the shoe becomes a water

shoe. Open, hexagonal construction keeps the foot

cool and allows air to circulate. MSRP $100.

Topo: The lightweight, versatile MT is designed for

trail running and light hiking. The outsole provides

stability and traction over a variety of surfaces and

a two-density EVA midsole keeps athletes insulated

from sharp rocks and roots while allowing for the

necessary feedback and ground feel important to

balance and agility. A detachable five mm two-density

EVA footbed works in combination with the two-

density EVA midsole to deliver protection and comfort

in a mid-stack 19/17 mm platform. MSRP $100.

Vibram FiveFingers: The CVT Hemp

features a sustainable hemp upper with

the added benefit of breathability. A

lightweight EVA sole incorporates rubber

pods in high wear areas to ensure greater

durability. Design details include a hand

stitched strap overlay for men and subtle

colored embroidery on the women’s.

Stretch gussets provide comfort and fit

and whipstiching adds style. A slip-on

style makes this shoe perfect for travel

and casual use. MSRP $100.

24 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2014

1/7/14 4:07 PM

SUSTAINABILITY

26 • Textile Insight ~ September/October 2012 textileinsight.com

Suppliers Learn New Ways to Go with the Flow. By Emily Walzer

WATER MATTERS

I ndeed, the latest catch-phrase is: “Water is the new oil.” Companies are increasingly focused on water conserva-tion and are fast implementing strate-gies, technologies and production methods to curb water usage.

Often when topics like this make global headlines, lots of statistics get thrown around — some accurate, some outra-geous. But worth noting is that it normally takes 25 liters of water to color one shirt. Here’s another way of looking at it: It takes one Mediterranean Sea every two years to color the world’s clothing.

With numbers like that it is not surprising that the textile community is taking the water issue seriously and has either implemented a conservation program or is about to. That includes a wide spectrum of businesses all along the sup-ply chain. For example, Saitex, a commercial laundry based in Vietnam has invested heavily in a campaign to “re-think” indus-trial ecology. The company

has put in practice a system that reduces wash steps from 12 to just six. Closer to home, transfer printing is gaining trac-tion in the footwear arena with companies like Hampton con-centrating on sustainably savvy initiatives.

According to industry execs these days there are both radi-cal solutions offering disruptive new technologies that could really show healthy reductions in water usage and/or allow for no water at all, as well as more incremental improvements in existing systems. Every drop counts, in other words.

Believing deeply that water will play a central role in the vitality of future generations of textile business, here’s a snap-shot of how a handful of com-panies are learning to go with the flow:

ColorZen: Modern Match-Making with Cotton and Dye

Following 15 years of devel-opment, ColorZen has launched a viable process for radical water reduction. “People want color,” says ColorZen president Michael Harari. “This is a real solution to a major problem. This is not a band-aid.”

The key to the technology is pre-treatment of the fiber to make the cotton more amenable to the dye. As a result, dye time is shortened with the elimina-tion of several steps in the pro-cessing, and water savings are dramatic. In addition, the fabric looks, feels and washes the same as conventionally dyed cotton.

The technology changes the fiber on the molecular level so there is better dye affinity, explains Harari, who is a found-ing partner of ColorZen, which has New York offices and a plant in China. Hence the time needed to dye a bale of cotton is reduced to 2.4 hours from 7.9 by eliminating the need for scouring, bleaching and rinsing prior to the dyeing. Further, the typical number of post-dye rins-es are lowered from five to just two. According to the company, water usage savings are esti-mated at 90 percent, and takes less than one third the time of conventional methods. Also of note is that ColorZen does not use salt or alkaline.

“The amount of water, chemi-cals and time needed to dye cotton are all reduced,” says Harari. “That’s what makes this

sustainable and cost effective.”

DryDye: Color into Clothing that is H20-Free

Considered one of the more radical solutions proposed in the marketplace, is dyeing using CO2. Adidas has started using a technology called DryDye, from the Yeh Group, which puts color into clothing without the use of water.

According to information on the Website, DryDye is not like color dyes that are blasted onto garments with a pressurized CO2 canister. Rather, the fabrics and chemical dyes are placed in a large sealed chamber, and CO2 is pumped in to a pres-sure of about 74 bar. The tank is also heated to 88 degrees Fahrenheit at which point the CO2 behaves like a gas and a liquid, allowing the colored dyes to thoroughly permeate the fabrics without the use of exces-sive chemicals. Polyester and synthetic fibers are used.

The DryDye process claims to use about half the amount of chemicals as traditional water-based dying methods, and requires about half the energy, too.

Adidas has produced 50,000

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DryDye: Color into Clothingthat is H20-Free

Considered one of the more radical solutions proposed inthe marketplace, is dyeing using CO2. Adidas has started usinga technology called DryDye, from the Yeh Group, which puts from the Yeh Group which putscolor into clothing without the use of water.

According to information onthe Website, DryDye is not like color dyes that are blasted onto garments with a pressurized CO2 canister. Rather, the fabrics and chemical dyes are placed in a large sealed chamber, and CO2 is pumped in to a pres-sure of about 74 bar. The tank is also heated to 88 degrees Fahrenheit at which point theCO2 behaves like a gas and a liquid, allowing the coloreddyes to thoroughly permeate thefabrics without the use of exces-sive chemicals. Polyester andsynthetic fibers are used.

The DryDye process claims to use about half the amount of chemicals as traditional water-based dying methods, and requires about half the energy, too.

Adidas has produced 50,000

TREND SETTER

You recently incorporated heat-reflecting coldblack into your lineup. Can you tell us about it?Coldblack is something we’ve been playing with for a number of years. We started by making up prototypes and handed them out. In Baltimore, it gets pretty hot and sunny, so we had people doing their lunchtime workouts or going for a run in it. The feedback kept coming back that there was some-thing here, so it passed our initial sniff test. Then we partnered with a mill and the makers of the com-pound (Schoeller). Golf has really embraced it and its out on the PGA tour. Basically coldblack refracts a spectrum of rays from sunlight that typically heat you up.

Any other technologies you’re looking into?We’re playing with taking some of our existing technologies to more of a nano approach. We’re taking things like antimicrobial and anti-odor components, looking at how we get odor control onto synthetics and control it to a much higher degree. So where you work out on a Monday and put your stuff into a locker or a gym bag that you put into the back of your

car for a day, how do we make sure the product isn’t stinking too badly? There aren’t many capture technologies out there, but we’ve got something that’s in the works that’s pretty cool and is quite proprietary.

Are you testing it now?We’ll test it in our innovation center, but we also look for inde-pendent testing. Unfortunately it’s a very long process.

What benefits are consumers asking for from their garments? Durability through wear and tear, like pilling and things that you don’t want to happen to your garment. From a performance standpoint, there’s a lot going on with compression. As new fit-ness regimes come through like CrossFit or P90X, the wider con-sumer base is plugging into the benefits of tighter-fitting product and how it benefits you through limiting muscle fatigue and mus-cle oscillation. From a Monday to a Tuesday, you’re not as tired, so you can work out harder and achieve goals better. I also think the whole concept of layering is something you’re going

to see more and more. Like people wearing a compression shirt or short underneath more of a loose garment because they’re starting to realize the short term and long term benefit of that.

How are you telling that story to consumers?We’re bringing color and print in, but its underneath. You’ll see an orange compression short under a black woven training short. You’re going to see more and more athletes, commercials and media around the concept of layering. Most of our golf athletes will wear compression under their polos whether its half-sleeved or full-sleeved compression shirts. You can stay more comfortable in your activity and therefore perform bet-ter over the course of the day.

On your site you let shoppers browse by fit. Why? We found that compression was always the athlete’s fit. It’s a tool, versus a garment. So we developed a fitted fit to give con-sumers who aren’t familiar with compression an opportunity to wear something that’s a more comfortable version. As you train up and realize you need more, you go to the compression fit.

What are you working on now?For Spring 2014, you’re going to see a lot more fun, creativity and a

much fresher look. It’s definitely coming from a consumer push. We travel the globe looking for new ideas and international consumers are being more provocative in their use of color and layering and hav-ing a lot more fun in their physi-cal activities. They’re taking more risks and that’s starting to trickle through the U.S.

What’s next in-store from under Armour for Fall 2012?We’ve revamped the entire base layer category. We strived to pull a lot of weight out of fabrics that keep you warm. Double-knits are thicker on the outside to use for layering or running and the inside captures your body heat. Base layers become hybrids where we put the right fabric in the right place, instead of one fabric story. We’ve started to play with a lot more color blocking and a lot more prints in a category that’s largely for us has been pretty solid.

Any further expansion in cotton?The Charged Cotton line is some-thing we keep expanding every sin-gle season. Consumers are buying it from us in droves. We’re looking at new ways for cotton to dry fast-er and pull more weight out of the cotton we’re using. We’re blend-ing a lot of cottons and polyesters together to achieve a warmth or a stretch or a durability story. Cotton is definitely not going away.

Senior Design Director Nick Cienski Drives Innovation at Under Armour By Suzanne Blecher

ith a penchant for the parts that make things tick, Nick Cienski put his design hat on backwards two years ago to start Under Armour’s Baltimore-based innovation center. Inside folks from all disciplines create and break items apart to “see what fails and make that better,” he says. Now senior direc-tor of men’s apparel and outdoor, mountain tactical, Cienski spends time implementing that information into the garments he creates.

On Tour: PGA players like Hunter Mahan are taking coldblack technology on tour. The polo keeps players cool and protect-ed from the sun’s heat during a long day on the links. The shirt is available in a range of colors. 1. Men’s coldblack Outline Logo Polo: Built to deny the sun, UA’s performance golf polo uses coldblack technology to block the heat of the sun, so wearers feel cooler and more comfortable. 2. Women’s Charged Cotton Storm Fleece Full Zip Hoody: Consumers looking for a performance cotton product have that and more with lightweight, warm fleece, comfortable fit, and a water-resistant Storm finish.

Coldblack On Tour

12

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Textile Insight. Focused on apparel and footwear design innovation and its exciting product applications. Cover to cover.

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