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The Ultimate Fruit

Winemaker’s Guide

- E-Book Version -

The Complete Reference Manual For All Winemakers

Dominic Rivard

BACCHUS ENTERPRISES WINEMAKER SERIES

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The Ultimate Fruit Winemaker’s Guide Second Edition Written By: Dominic Rivard Published by: Bacchus Enterprises Ltd. Copyright © 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise without written permission from the author. ISBN: 1441450920 EAN-13: 9781441450920 First Edition Printed August 2007 For more information contact: E-mail: info@djrivard.com Blog: www.dailyfruitwine.com Web: www.djrivard.com

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TABLEOFCONTENTS

FOREWORDWhyThisBook 7AbouttheAuthor 8SECTIONONE THEFRUITWINECONCEPTANDSETUP CONSIDERATIONSFORTHEWINEMAKERChapter1 HistoryofWineandFruit 10 WineinAncientHistory TheModernFruitWineIndustry TypesofFruitWinesNowBeingmade FruitWineCategoriesChapter2 StartingaFruitWinery 16 GeneralConsiderations Start‐up,Planning,DuringProduction CapitalandOperatingCostsChapter3 TheWineFacility 22 TheBuilding ProductionFacilitySampleLayouts PlantSet‐Up EquipmentandSupplies ProductionPlanningChapter4 AcquiringtheNeededKnowledgeandSkills 30 HowandWheretogetWhatyouNeed SelectingaWinemaker OperationalConsiderationandBusinessViability ReducingOverheadandOtherGeneralExpenses

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SECTIONTWO MAKINGTHEWINEChapter5 FruitSelection 36 SelectingWhichFruitForWinemaking IndepthStudyofEachoftheMainFruitCategoriesChapter6 IngredientSourcesandVariety 42 ProsandConsofEachFruitSource Sugars,VariationsandtheirUses OtherIngredientsOtherThanFruitChapter7 SpecificWinemakingProcedures 53 EuropeanStyleAppleWinesandHardCiders CitrusandOrangeBasedWines PlumBasedWines(WesternandAsianStyles) LoganberryBasedWines RaspberryBasedWines ElderberrybasedWinesChapter8 CommercialScaleSelectedFruitWineRecipes 70 Dry“Traditional”styleFruitWineBlend OffDryVarietal(Aronia,Blackberry,Black,WhiteCurrant) SweetFruitWines(Blueberry,Blackberry,BlackCurrant) SparklingFruitWines IceFruitWine(Apple) FortifiedFruitWinesChapter9 ProductionProcess 81 VolumeofWineProductionandBatchSize FruitHandling,Tractors,Containers,Crush,Pressing Fermentation,Storage AllaboutWineTanks Pumping,Filtering,BottlingandLabelling CompleteWineProductionFlowChartChapter10 WineBlending–FruitWineBlendConsiderations 92 FullInterviewwithWinemakerMagazine ListofGoodFruitWineBlendCombinations

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Chapter11 Cellaring–AgingandStoringWine 95 ShortTermAgingUnder2Years CellaringWinefortheLongTerm ProperTemperatureforWineStorageChapter12 QualityControl 98 ChallengesFacedbyFruitWinemakers FruitQualityControl WineQualityControl AgingandStorageQualityControl BottlingQualityControl WineCorks SanitationintheWineRoomChapter13 WineFaultsandFlaws–DetectionandRemedy 106 TerminologyofWineProblemsChapter14 GuaranteeingaGoodWine–StabilityTests 118 SugartestsandResidualSugars AcidsandTitratableAcidity VolatileAcidity PreservativesanditsAnalysis SulphurDioxide MalolacticFermentationAnalysis EthanolAnalysisbyEbulliometer MeasuringpHandItsRelationshipwithTA PreBottlingTests DeterminingProteinStability PrecipitationTestsSECTIONTHREEMARKETINGANDSALESChapter15 WineMarketing–AnOverview 144 SalesandMarketingChapter16 TheWineMarkets 146 GlobalExportMarkets LocalMarketsandMarketingWineinYourArea MarketChannels–ProsandConsofEach

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Chapter17 PackagingandBranding 157 PromotionandPublicity TradeShows BudgetandPricingChapter18 AlternativeWinesforSpecificMarkets 165 OrganicWines KosherWinesChapter19 HealthBenefitsofFruitWines–MarketingHealth 171 AntiOxidantsinFruitWines FruitWinesandTheir“ORAC”ValuesChapter20 TheFutureisBrightforFruitWines 174 ConclusionandNextStepsBIBLIOGRAPHY 176APPENDIXSECTIONAPPENDIXA EquipmentandCosts 181APPENDIXB Suppliers 186APPENDIXC ResourcesandReferences 189APPENDIXD WineCompetitions 193APPENDIXE OrganicWineProductionStandards 194APPENDIXF UseofTanninsintheLifeofaWine 197APPENDIXG WineProductionFormulas 198APPENDIXH GeneralWineRelatedGlossary 200APPENDIXI FruitWineandCheesePairing 205APPENDIXJ ListofWineImportersandDistributors 206

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Foreword Why this book? This book is a culmination of a passion for wine that includes 15 years of fruit winemaking experience. When I started making wines from fruits, there was really no information specific to fruit winemaking except for a few small amateur wine recipe books from the UK. These recipes more often than not made mediocre wines and I feel that these books did not help the bad reputation fruit wines sometimes had. There are hundreds of wine related books in the marketplace. A lot of them deal with wine appreciation and the many wine regions of the world. Others are technical books on grape winemaking only. Practically none are specifically geared to the fruit winemaker and the unique considerations that fruit winemaking entails. A lot of experimentation (and some truly undrinkable wines) has been made due to this lack of commercial quality fruit wine information. With time, a deeper understanding of the nuances and techniques of fruit winemaking were developed and this has contributed to fruit wines now often standing on par with their grape wine cousins in some parts of the world. With the rise in popularity of commercially made fruit wines and for the thousands of amateur and commercial winemakers who enjoy making and drinking well-made fruit wines, it’s about time this came along! I hope you enjoy reading this book as much as I enjoyed writing it. It is my sincere wish that it helps you produce world-class wines and in doing so enhance the public’s enjoyment and perception of fruit wines everywhere. Your friend in winemaking, Dominic Rivard

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About the Author Dominic was born in the province of Quebec, Canada and comes from a rich heritage of farmers and entrepreneurs whose ancestry can be traced to the cider making regions of North Western France.

With over 16 years experience in the wine industry, Dominic has been passionately about wine since the age of 17 when he started making wine from local fruits and grapes.

He specialises in fruit wine, dessert wine and ice wine production and is known in wine industry circles as an authority in fruit wine making. After becoming a certified sommelier, he studied winemaking and oenology through UC Davis in California, undertook and passed the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma in London, UK and is studying towards the prestigious Master of Wine accreditation.

He is a founding director of the Fruit Wines of Canada Association, which is involved in promoting fruit wines and its industry throughout Canada and the world. Dominic has won hundreds of awards in national and international wine competitions. Including the best desert wine in Canada in 2007 and various best of show awards in fruit wine and desert wine categories. Over the last decade, Dominic has been running numerous wine production and exportation projects for wineries in Canada, USA, Italy, Spain, Chile, Taiwan, Korea, Japan as well as China. He is a speaker on winemaking and wine marketing at various symposiums throughout the world and is an acclaimed wine judge for various professional wine competitions. Dominic has been engaged in R&D projects for the several Canadian provincial governments and has perfected numerous dessert wine production techniques including fruit ice wine cryo-extration.

He is presently involved enological consulting for various wineries in four continents and part owner in a high quality tropical fruit winery in Thailand. He is very excited about the developments in the fruit wine industry and its great potential on a global basis.

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SECTION ONE

OVERVIEW OF FRUIT WINERY CONCEPT AND SET-UP CONSIDERATIONS

B a c c h u s E n t e r p r i s e s L t d .

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During Wine Production • Fruit quality must be good. Although fruit does not have to be always of “A”

grade to make good wine, proper sugar levels must be attained, acid levels must be manageable and flavour of the fruit must be good. Spoiled or moldy fruit must be avoided as much as possible.

• Always have equipment in good working order and make sure there are some

spare parts for all equipment. This is important as making wine can be a sensitive issue and work slow-downs or not being able to complete a task in a quick amount of time due to equipment malfunction can result in wine spoilage or lower quality product.

• Make sure that the winery facility can be easily cleaned and kept clean. Proper

drainage should be installed, a good supply of hot water available, and a proper sanitation regime put into place.

• If the operator hires a

winemaker to oversee production, he should ensure that the winemaker loves wine and it must show. A winemaker is not only a person who knows how wine is made but also is a bit of an artist and highly creative as well as having some business sense. They must have good winemaking experience and training and be passionate about his or her craft. The operator would be wise to make sure the winemaker has good references, has won wine awards in the past and has a flair for producing marketable wines. Tasting his or her wines made at other wineries may be a good idea before hiring his or her services.

Planning When thinking of building your own winery, it is always good to know what is ideal, what your capital will allow, and how you will proceed. There are certain basic pieces of information you should consider before making a large investment, but always think ahead and do not try to shortcut your needs. There are many issues that need to be considered when entering the wine industry.

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The profitability and success of a winery will depend on several factors:

The price paid for purchased fruit The price received for the finished product Marketing costs of finished wine The size of the operation Location of winery Any established contracts Debt levels of business Management factors Staff requirements Skill level of manpower (qualified winemaker, lab technician – if necessary) Cellar door requirements Quality of the fruit and the wine

Listed below are some considerations you should evaluate before you start purchasing equipment. In addition, visit wineries the size you plan on starting or expanding to, and work with suppliers and/or visit wine consultants. This will allow you to avoid some common mistakes. The list below may help guide your decision process and offers a starting point for decisions:

Capital determines the size. Start large enough – plan where you want to be in 2-3 years. Have enough ceiling height – 15 feet is ideal. Have a loading dock. Have adequate electrical power – need three-phase power. How much total capacity should you have? Ideally, one-third more total tank

storage capacity than your total yearly production. Need fermentation temperature control on tanks greater than 2000 L. How many tons per hour do you need to process? This determines size of

press/speed of crusher. Determine pump, filtration, and bottling needs. Determine package design: includes labels, capsules and bottle type. How much

will you bottle per day? In the appendix section, you will find a list of equipment requirements for three

different production levels: 4500L, 15,000L and up to 37,500L or more. See Notes for Production Levels 1-3 in the appendix to determine your equipment needs.

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CHAPTER 5CHAPTER 5

Fruit Selection In the wine industry, it is said that often, wine is made in the vineyards. In our case, it can be said that fruit wine is often “made in the orchards”. Obviously, selecting or growing poor quality fruit will make the production of high quality wine very difficult. Therefore having access to, growing and selecting the best quality fruit possible under the best situation is of prime importance. Fruit should be ripe or slightly overripe and take the following into consideration:

• High sugar content, lower acid – easier to adjust and less costly than over chaptalizing.

• ‘B’ or juice grade is fine, not able to sell on fresh market – added bonus, able to use excess crop. The “B” or even “C” grade fruit does not always mean that the fruit is inferior in quality. It is often a way to differentiate between ecstatically pleasing fruit geared for the fresh retail market and fruit that may be just as good but not as esthetically pleasing to the eye and selected as such for the juice or jam market.

• No moldy or overly bruised fruit – prevent potential contamination or over use of SO2 to neutralize the mold.

• Choose fruit that is well known and will be easy to identify. Will have the greatest chance to catch on with the public.

• In some parts of the world, indigenous fruit may be of local interest such as Saskatoon berries in Western Canada, but may not have as much of a following outside of the local region. Making wines from such fruits will require spending more time and marketing funds to promote the lesser-known fruit.

• If available, raspberries and strawberries have wide appeal and are easier to produce than most fruits.

• Make some neutral wines such as rhubarb, pear or apple wines for blending into more flavorful wines and to standardize, adjust and make consistent

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CHAPTER 12CHAPTER 12

Quality Control Challenges Faced by Fruit Winemakers

Despite the fact that all fruits will instinctively ferment to some degree under the right circumstances, there is a reason “fruit wine” really means “wine made from fruit other than grapes.” When asked why vitis vinifera won the world winemaking race, Dr. James Lapsley, wine historian and associate professor at the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology explains, “Vinifera is unique in fruits in developing as much sugar as it does, thus resulting in a wine of 10-14% alcohol, which is more stable.

Ripe pineapple, for instance, is about 15% sugar. Therefore, most fruits need sugar additions, or water additions (to reduce acidity) or both. Vinifera makes itself, and hence became the standard.” Commercial fruit winemaking, by default, has largely become a quest for solidity and stability, dominant rather than self-inventing. One of the foremost battles any fruit winemaker wages is with the sugar content of the juice or must. Depending upon the pH of the preliminary material, for a wine to have adequate alcohol to be microbially constant as well as have the right texture in the mouth, winemakers aim for at least 11.0% ethanol. On the basis of the sugar-alcohol alteration factor utilized (0.538 is a general starting point), that would entail an initial sugar content of 20.45 %. Many fruits can hardly top out at 12.0% (be careful of pulpy pendant solids in any hydrometer analysis—it is best to centrifuge samples). With numbers like those, it rapidly becomes apparent that adding sucrose, honey, concentrate, or some erstwhile form of fermentable sugar is essential. Crowe (2007)

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What a producer is keen to add to a wine depends upon their stylistic goals. A Japanese study reviewed in the American Journal of Oenology and Viticulture (vol. 46 no. 1 1995) suggests that fruit wines sweetened by means of glucose and fructose, as is found in grape juice and fruit concentrates, scored higher in taste panels than the similar fruit wine sugared by un-cleaved sucrose. A few winemakers get pleasure from the bouquet and extra body that some kinds of honey ads to a product at the same time some only sweeten their wines via similar-fruit concentrates. Others merely skirt the sugar-addition problem by adding together grape or other fruit brandy to their fruit wines to boost the alcohol content. What a producer can add to a wine is dependant on their federal and state laws and will impinge on how they eventually label the bottled product.

For fruit winemakers in the U.S., TTB regulation group 27CFR4, listed at www.ttb.gov/regulations, is required reading. Ameliorate with slight of the “wrong” thing and all of a sudden an Upstate New York Pink Lady Apple Wine will have to be labeled as “Fruit Wine with Natural Flavours.” Attaining the acid equilibrium right is the next challenge. The goal is to equal the level of acid to the completed wine style (sweet, dry, or fortified) while maintaining an adequate amount of acid for microbial solidity and colour constancy, where pertinent. There is nothing erroneous with having a pH of 2.93 and a TA of 9.75 g/L in a raspberry dessert wine with 7% lingering sugar. The same final wine chemistry, in a dry apple wine, though, would be screamingly tart and the wine would be unhinged and unpleasant to drink. Crowe (2007)

The flip side is likewise hazardous. Low-acid musts (pH’s over 3.80 and TA’s below 5.0 g/L for example) can lead to bacterial incursion, stuck fermentations, high volatile acidity, a flat taste profile, greasy mouth feel, poor colour, and a concise shelf life. Most winemakers conflict low acid musts by adding tartaric, citric, malic acid, or an amalgamation of all three. High acid musts are occasionally de-acidified using calcium or potassium carbonate but time and again then are simply thinned with water and have sugar added back to the required fermentation level. In the United States, winemakers can add water up to 35%.

Fruit winemaking is often a juggling act of sugar, acid, flavor, dilution ratios. Being intimate in the knowledge of these factors, how they are interpreted by various laws governing wine production and sales in the market will ensure a higher degree of success.

Another important factor and challenge facing fruit winemakers is the identification of “wine problems” or flaws and faults that can occur in the wine process. Being able to identify this early ensures being able to remedy these problems.

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In the following sections, we will look at this further.

Fruit Quality Control Basic tests need to be done to fruit acquired or grown for winemaking to ensure that it is of adequate quality to render a wine that will be accepted by the buying public. Consistency is also important at this stage. The fruit should be ripe; a bit over-ripe is fine, but free of moulding or obvious spoilage. If the fruit is to be frozen, it should be placed in containers that are clean and will prevent freezer burn on the fruit. Simple tests such as sugar level, pH and titratable acidity of the fruit needs to be determined to make sure that the fruit will not need too high of an adjustment level in order to be able to make the wine. Wine Quality Control The principle quality control difficulties of the wine industry are: lack of adequate record keeping, fruit quality, control of phenol extraction in the wines, and oxidative degradation or oxidation. The key to adequate quality control is to monitor how each production activity affects the wine and to make adjustments accordingly. Complete and accurate record keeping is very important and can ensure a successful quality control program. Only when proper up-to-date accounts of wine production activities are kept can a full understanding of the parameters affecting wine quality occur. Aging and Storage Quality Control 1. Sanitation:

Each winery should have an established sanitation program and be periodically monitored for the effectiveness of that program. Such a simple procedure as tasting the wines in the tanks is important. Even the water used to rinse or clean tanks and equipment can be a significant step in ensuring quality. Alcohol is an excellent solvent. Therefore, any off-character in the rinse water may be picked up in the wine.

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CHAPTER 14CHAPTER 14

Guaranteeing a Good Wine – Stability Tests Guaranteeing a good batch of wine is not simple. Wine is being made at a commercial level and potentially, thousands of different people will be drinking the wines made and possibly store them for extended periods of time. The stability and long shelf life of the wines must be ensured, not only the taste. Tests need to be made throughout the winemaking process for adjustment purposes, determining faults, correcting these faults and ensuring the long-term stability of the end product. Certain chemical analyses need to be conducted to determine the various chemical adjustments in the must and wine. The following are the basic chemical analyses that the winemaker needs to be able to conduct and use routinely in making adjustments and helping to assess the quality of the must and wine. However, remember the final assessment is always based on the sensory determination. Sugar and Residual Sugars The sugar content of the juice used to make a wine directly impacts the final alcohol content of the finished wine, so determination of the initial total soluble solids content is important. Determination of the solids level in fermenting musts or juices is also important to help monitor the progress of the fermentation. The sugar content of finished table wines is generally reduced to between 0.5% (dry wine) to 3.0% (sweet wine). It is important to know the level of sugar, because it can affect the long-term stability of wine. To measure sugar in juices and fermenting musts/juices, you can use either of two types of instruments: a hydrometer or a refractometer.

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Hydrometers are cylindrical glass tubes of varying lengths and diameters that are loaded with specific amounts of lead in the bottom and graduated at the top to allow measurement of the density of the liquid. The density measurement is related to a specific percent of sugar if a Brix hydrometer is used. The density of pure water is measured as 1.0; measurements above or below 1.0 indicate a solution with a higher or lower density than water. In raw juice or must, the measurement is read as “degrees Brix,” and in fermenting juices/musts the measurement is read as “degrees balling.” The two terms are used to indicate percentage of sugar (Brix) or the relative viscosity of the fermenting liquid Balling). A rough calculation of the final alcohol content of the wine can be made using the Brix measurement of the unfermented juice/must. For each initial Brix of sugar in the must, approximately 0.535% alcohol will result. For a juice with 16 Brix initially, the final alcohol content will be about 8.5% if all the sugars are fermented. The density of the juice/must will change as the sugars are converted into alcohol, allowing the monitoring of the progress of the fermentation. Sugars make the solution denser; causing the hydrometer to float higher, while alcohol reduces the density of the solution, which depresses the float level. The two forces tend to offset each other, allowing relatively accurate measurements with the instrument. Hydrometers are available from most wine-supply outlets at very reason able prices, generally around $15. They are available in many different Brix° ranges, but a set of four with the following ranges would serve the small winemaker very well:

-5.0 - 5.0 degrees Brix° 0.0. - 8.0 degrees Brix° 8.0 - 16.0 degrees Brix° 16.0 - 32.0 degrees Brix°

Refractometers use the optical density of the solution to determine the sugar content. The optical density of the solution affects the angle of light refracted off its surface, and allows very accurate measurements of its density. The most accurate measurements are made at a specified temperature or are temperature-corrected. Once fermentation begins, refractometers should not be used and accuracy will be lower. Refractometers are much more expensive than hydrometers and the increase in accuracy of the determinations of sugar content is generally not considered to be adequate justification for the expense.

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CHAPTER 17CHAPTER 17

Packaging and Branding Packaging Going through wine package development is a creative process, yet it is important to realize how elusive a successful wine package can be. For example, it may be a creative product that wins awards for the designer but fails to create sales results for the product. Or, it may be the safe, traditional tombstone-style label with an elegant style insignia that does not distinguish itself from a wine shelf. Savvy marketers rely on a concept framework that focuses attention on the brand’s core identity as the starting and ending point of the work to be undertaken, and serves as a measure along the way in evaluating creative options. Savvy winemakers/marketers also know that package development is not to be taken lightly and can take a while to complete. There are other elements in the wine package that must be managed successfully for a new design to reach the marketplace. The package designer needs to focus on the management of the creative process so that the final package is a reflection of the wine brand in a compelling package that competes effectively in a retail environment. When developing a logo and packaging, always get feedback and comments at the development stage, even from friends and family.

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CHAPTER 19CHAPTER 19 Health Benefits of Fruit Wines - Marketing Health

It is now a known fact that drinking moderately can provide various health benefits. Research conducted by doctors in Europe recommends that 1 to 2 alcoholic drinks per day minimizes one's chances of developing dementia in old age. Drinking moderately also reduces chances of cardiovascular diseases because alcohol helps in thinning of blood.

Fruits are “natures own desserts”. They are very beneficial for ones health. Today even a layman understands that intake of fruits and vegetables on a regular basis will help him to lead a healthier and a longer life. Research from the United States, United Kingdom, and The Netherlands suggests that the role of fruits and vegetables in preventing heart disease is a protective one. Risk reduction was estimated as high as 20 - 40 percent among individuals who consumed substantial amounts of fruits and vegetables.

Therefore consuming fruit wines within a reasonable limit will certainly do wonders to one’s health. Very recently fruit wines have also earned respect with regards to the health of the mankind. Fruit wines have been recognized and honored by wine makers all over the world for its amazing health benefits. According to a recent study conducted by Dr Rupasinghe V, Ontario’s fruit wines have basic health related constituents in comparison to traditional grape wines which are extremely good for ones immune system. Different wines made from different fruits have varied health benefits.

Cranberries have prominent levels of phytonutrients, and many have antioxidant activity. A research conducted on cardiovascular health depicts that, cranberries have the ability to reduce total cholesterol and LDL, or bad cholesterol, and raises blood flow. Cranberries are rich in flavonoids, hence helps in inhibiting certain kinds of cancers. Cranberries have also found to inhibit ulcer causing bacteria’s also the polyphenolic.

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Wines made of raspberries have proved to considerably diminish the pain caused by sore throat because of cold and flu. Cholera, anaemia, diarrhea and dysentery have found a home made remedy through wines made of blackberries. Japanese medicine science recommends blueberry juice and wines for better eyesight and general eye health. Researches conducted have shown to increase ones memory by intake of blueberries and associated products.

Fruit Wines can be Healthier than Grape Wines – ORAC Values

One of the most important reasons to start drinking more fruit wine is also because they are very good for your health.

In regards to fruit wines, the real health property that sets them apart from grape wines is that they can have a very high ORAC content.

What is ORAC? It stands for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity and is a method of measuring antioxidant capacities of different foods. It was developed by the scientists at the National Institute on Aging in the USA.

This is a large a subject to discuss here but as stated above, drinking wines has been proven to be very good for health, especially the health of the heart, brain functions, etc. Wines with a good source of polyphenol antioxidants such apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, cranberries, grapes, pears, plums, raspberries, and strawberries provide huge health benefits and should be part of a healthy diet.

Which wine has the highest count of ORAC?

The following wines and their ORAC content shows that wines made with Aronia (Chokeberry) are the healthiest wines to drink. More than 4X that of regular red wine!

The berry listed in order of Antioxidant levels per 100 grams:

1. Aronia (15.8K ORAC)

2. Elderberry (14.6K ORAC)

3. Cranberries (9.5K ORAC)

4. Black Currant (8K ORAC)

5. Blueberries (6K ORAC)

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