understanding the wines of canada
TRANSCRIPT
The Wines of Canada Myths and Realities
Overview Canadian wines from Coast to Coast
Canada's Major Wine Regions
Canada's Major Wine Regions
• Wine made in 6 Provinces from Coast to Coast
• The three most notable are Ontario, British Columbia
and Nova Scotia.
• From Victoria, British Columbia to Wolfville, Nova Scotia
is about 4500km or 2800 miles.
• By Comparison from Jerez, Spain to Moscow, Russia is
only about 3900km or 2400 miles
• Latitude Ranges from 41* North to 50* North
Is Canada Cold?
• Canada is thought of as "The Great White North"
• Majority of Wine production on same Latitude as
California/Oregon Border
• 1500 - 1650 Celcius Growing Degree Days (2700 - 3000
Fahrenheit) for three largest regions.
• About the same as the average for Napa and warmer
parts of Sonoma.
Hot Summers, Freezing Winters
• Temperature fluctuation in a single year can be from
35*C/95*F in July/August to -24*C/-12*F in January.
• Extended sunlight hours + Summer Heat = Ripeness
• Diurnal Variation + Rapid onset of Fall Retain Acidity
• The swing to winter can be dramatic and damaging.
• The trick isn't growing the grapes... It's getting them to
survive the winter.
Growing Degree Days by Region (*C/*F)
Niagara-on-the-Lake: 1600/2880
Niagara Escarpment: 1580/2840
Lake Erie North Shore: 1515/2730
Prince Edward County: 1365/2460
Northern Okanagan: 1200/2160
Southern Okanagan: 1490/2680
Annapolis Valley: 1000/1800
Canada
Champagne: 1050/1890
Rheingau: 1050/1890
Marlborough: 1250/2250
Beaune: 1315/2360
Yakima: 1425/2560
Bordeaux: 1400/2520
Sonoma: 1310/2360
St. Helena: 1610/2900
Calistoga: 1820/3280
World Regions
Cold Weather Solutions Tempering Winters Might
Lakes and Large Bodies of Water
Bodies of Water
• Canada is home to the Majority
of the World's largest lakes.
• Extreme Western and Eastern
Regions Moderated by Pacific
and Atlantic Oceans.
• Freezing on these large and
deep bodies of Water is rare or
minimal providing moderation in
winter.
• Geological Formations Near
Lakes aid air circulation in
Vineyards creating a longer
warmer growing season.
Geological Formations and Soils
Geological
Formations
• Most major regions based
around Large Sloping
Escarpments and Valleys that
amplify effects of Lakes.
• Niagara Escarpment is most
important creating the unique
soil structures and air circulation
patterns of the Niagara Region.
• The Okanagan valley
surrounding lake Oakanagan
helps trap heat and orient
vineyards for sunlight exposure.
Technological Intervention
Wind Machines
• Wind machines used to circulate warm
inversion layer and displace cold air.
• Typically about 30 feet in height.
• Used to prevent effects from spring and fall
frosts.
• Also used when possible to moderate
winter lows.
• Require relatively low wind speeds and
moderate temperature variation to be
effective.
• Can change temperature by approximately
3-5*C.
• Coverage of 5-10 about 5-10 acres.
• Loud and Expensive but capable of
significantly prolonging growing season.
Vine Burying
• Most commonly found in Prince Edward
County. To prevent winter bud damage
or vine death.
• Vines trained with short trunk.
• Canes trellised vertically in summer.
• Following growing season canes
attached to ground level wire and
subsequently buried.
• Canes unearthed and retrained in
following spring.
• Earth provides highest level of cold
protection and insulation.
• Process has highest risk of Damage to
vine.
Geotextiles
• Recent experiments at Brock
University and in Quebec have
looked at the use of Textiles to
provide winter protection.
• Instead of burying vines they are
covered with an insulating textile
to trap heat and provide
insulation.
• Results seem promising for low
trellised vines with very high bud
survival rates.
• Much safer for the vines and less
labour intensive than vine
burying.
Icewine Embracing our winter overlords
What is Icewine?
• Icewine must be made from grapes frozen
naturally on the vine.
• A MAXIMUM temperature of -8*C (17*F)
is required although lower is preferred in
case of thawing.
• Typically picked and processed overnight
to avoid temperature fluctuations and
thawing.
• Minimum average sugar level of 35* Brix
for all components and 32* Brix minimum
for any one component.
• Minimum Residual sugar of 100g/L with
Typical levels ranging from 150-250g/L.
• Alcohol typically 8-11%ABV however
alcohols up to 15% are seen. Yeast can
have difficulties with fermentation.
Misconception:
Icewine is a Major
Focus
• Contrary to popular belief
Icewine is only a small portion
of overall production.
• For 2013/2014 total wine
production in Ontario was 23.4
Million Litres. Icewine was
800,000 Litres (About 3.5%).
• By contrast 50% of all exports
are icewine.
• Vast Majority of Canadian wine
consumed in Province of
Production.
Misconception:
I don't like Icewine
• Most commonly heard misconception
about icewine.
• Icewine typically perceived as Sickly
Sweet and Syrupy.
• Several factors at play.
• Icewine is expensive to produce. Most
icewines exported are low cost bulk
productions.
• Most bulk produced Icewine is produced
from high yielding, winter hardy and
reliable Vidal Hybrid.
• Most Large Scale Icewine Production is
designed to fit specific profile.
• Premium Icewines from Riesling,
Gewurztraminer, Cab. Sauv. and Cab.
Franc tend to be lighter and more
balanced similar to classic dessert
wines.
Wine Laws Regulation of Production and Sales
Wine Regulation in Canada
• Regulation of both production and sale of wine in
Canada largely a provincial matter.
• Regulation of wine sales largely determined by individual
liquor boards of the specific province.
• Vintners Quality Alliance is the primary Regulatory Body
for production of Premium Wines.
• Independent systems of classification exist in Nova
Scotia, Quebec and other regions excluded from VQA
regulations.
Vintners Quality
Alliance - VQA
• Highly regulated system more in line
with European PDO systems than New
World Geographically Based systems.
• Composed of two separate regulatory
bodies BC VQA and VQA Ontario.
• Regulations although very similar can
vary between two provincial systems.
• Regulates Labeling, Production
Methods, Growing Regions,
Harvesting, Production, Grape
Varieties and Style.
• All wines must pass Tasting Panel and
Laboratory Analysis prior to
Certification.
VQA Ontario
• VQA System Originated in Ontario as
a Trade Organization in 1988.
• Became legally mandated regulatory
body for Ontario Wine in 1999.
• Within Ontario all wines using a
designation of Origin must be VQA
approved.
• Non-VQA wines can use only
Product of Canada.
• Much Recent Controversy due to use
of Tasting Panels.
• Within Ontario the term VQA can be
used alone.
BC VQA
• System brought to BC in 1990
based on recently created
Ontario system.
• Became government regulated
in 2005 under the Wines of
Marked Quality Regulation.
• Wines from British Columbia
must use the term BC VQA
instead of VQA on its own.
• In addition to BC VQA, wines
that mean the less stringent
rules of BC Wine of Distinction
are also eligible for Geographic
Designations.
Other Systems
• VQA to date operates only in
Ontario and British Columbia.
• Provinces outside of VQA
Regulation have nonetheless
created equivalent organizations.
• L'Association des vignerons du
Québec created Vin du Québec
certifié in 2008.
• Nova Scotia adopted the Nova
Scotia Wine Standards program
in 2005. Tidal Bay appellation for
White wines adopted in 2012.
Wines of Ontario Canada's Juggernaut
Main VQA Regions
• 3 Main VQA Regions: Niagara
Peninsula, Prince Edward
County, Lake Erie North Shore.
• Former 4th appellation of Pelee
Island incorporated into Lake
Erie North Shore appellation
due to legal issues among other
concerns.
• The Niagara Peninsula is
largest production region by far.
• Provincial designation of VQA
Ontario also regulated.
Niagara Peninsula
• Canada's largest production area by volume at
16.8 Million Litres in 2014. This accounts for
almost 40% of Canadian Wine Production.
• Significant variation among Sub-Appellations.
• In 2013 Avg. Frost Free Days varied from a low
of 178 in Vinemount Ridge to a high of 213 in
Niagara Lakeshore. A 5 Week Variation.
• GDD in the Same Year varied from a low of
1469 in Vinemount Ridge to a high of 1637 in
the St. David's Bench.
• Moderate rainfall common across the region.
• Varietal Selection varies significantly however,
Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet
Franc are the official Focus Varietals.
• Entire region sandwiched between Lake
Ontario and the Niagara Escarpment.
Niagara-on-the-Lake
• Formed by 4 Sub-Appellations of
Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara River,
Four Mile Creek and St. David's
Bench.
• Typically the 4 Hottest Sub-
Appellations of Niagara.
• Escarpment is further from the lake
providing more gently sloped,
relatively flat farmland.
• Soils are a mix of soil types from
Sandy Loam to Clay and Alluvial
Soils.
• Many different varietals planted,
Bordeaux Varietals and Syrah often
see significant success.
Niagara Escarpment
• The 3 Bench Appellations on the
Western End of the Region form
the Niagara Escarpment.
• Typically slightly less heat than
the appellations of Niagara-on-
the-Lake.
• Home to some of the Regions
most well known Rieslings and
Chardonnays, however Pinot
Noir, Cabernet Franc and
Gamay noir all perform well.
• Vineyards on a much steeper
north facing incline compared to
NOTL vineyards.
Other Niagara Sub-
Appellations
• 3 Other Sub-Appellations don't fit neatly
into either the Niagara Escarpment or
Niagara-on-the-Lake Appellations.
• Vinemount Ridge: Located on top of the
Niagara Escarpment it has Niagara's
Coolest and Shortest growing season.
• Lincoln Lakeshore and Creekshores:
Two Lakeshore Appellations at the west
end of the Peninsula below the
escarpment. Many small creeks provide
drainage and unique micro climates.
• Creekshores often shares the
designation of longest growing season
with the very similar Niagara Lakeshore
appellation in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Prince Edward
County
• Ontario's Northernmost and Newest
Appellation created in 2007.
• Completely surrounded by northern Lake
Ontario it experiences considerable
moderation.
• Typically has a long cool growing season.
• Most similar in style and focus to
Burgundy.
• Hugely variable landscape.
• Soils highly mineral, mostly loose gravel
with a limestone base although sandy
soils do occur.
• High risk of Winter Damage even on
Winter Hardy Vinifera Varietals.
Lake Erie North
Shore
• Originally home to some of Canada's
earliest wineries pre-prohibition, now
one of Canada's Smallest appellations
with only 15 wineries.
• Incorporates the North-Western Shore
of Lake Erie and Pelee Island.
• Lake Erie is much shallower than Lake
Ontario leading to less moderation.
• Summers are occasionally hotter,
however winters face a higher risk of
damaging cold.
• The Southernmost Appellation in
Canada with the southern end at about
the same latitude as the California
Oregon Border.
Emerging Regions
• The VQA has a tendency to be very
conservative towards rule changes.
• Some wineries and regions have gained rapid
success under the VQA Ontario labelling in
emerging regions.
• Most notable are several wineries on the lake
Erie Shoreline outside of the Currently defined
Lake Erie North Short Appellation.
• A point of contention surrounds the use of
Hybrids. The VQA system was created when
Labrusca Varieties and Low Quality hybrids
were still common.
• Under VQA regulations only select hybrids are
allowed. This has been slow to change leaving
many recently developed high quality cold-hardy
hybrids off the list of approved varietals.
• The use of hybrids most seriously effects
developing wine regions in areas with extreme
winters.
Wines of BC Canada's West Coast
Okanagan Valley
• Northern end of the desert system starting at the
Sonoran Desert in Mexican.
• Region follows the Canadian portion of the Okanagan
Valley for about 160km.
• Many lakes influence the Okanagan, the most
significant being the 144km long Lake Okanagan.
• Extremely hot in the summer with temperatures from
30-40*C being common.
• Extreme Northern Latitudes around 50* North created
long daytime hours in summer.
• The combination of heat and daytime hours during
the growing season create extremely unique growing
conditions.
• The length of the region leads to significant North-
South Variance.
• The North is most known for white wines from Pinot
Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and others.
• The Hotter South is known for Big Reds from
Bordeaux Varietals and Syrah in Particular.
Similkameen Valley
• An up and coming region located just
west of the Okanagan.
• Extremely steep slopes and arid
conditions characterize the valley.
• One of the only significant Canadian
wine regions not to rely on a large
body of water for moderation.
• Instead region is moderated by steep
mountainsides and rocky soils that
trap heat in the valley floor.
• A long winding valley, the area is a
mix a various microclimates growing
a wide variety of grapes.
Other Regions
• BC has 3 other official regions:
The Fraser Valley, The Gulf
Islands and Vancouver Island.
• All 3 Regions are located in the
Western portion of the Province.
• Rainfall and Climate concerns
have typically faced the regions
however they have all been
showing promise in recent years.
• They are typically smaller
regions still home to much
experimentation.
Eastern Canada Nova Scotia, Quebec and More.
Nova Scotia
• Wine production in Nova Scotia is
mostly located in the Annapolis and
Gaspereau Valleys in the West of the
Province.
• The Atlantic Ocean and Bay of Fundy
provide significant moderating
influence.
• Sparkling wines and Light, Crisp
Aromatic white wines have dominated
the Region.
• Large similarities in climate and geology
to Champagne and the South of
England.
• Traditional Method sparkling wines
have been receiving National and
International acclaim.
Quebec
• Most production located in the
South and South East of the
Province.
• Pre-Existing wine culture has led
to a rapid expansion of wine
growing.
• Relatively unknown outside of
the province.
• Most wines based on hybrids
due to extreme weather
experienced.
• More recent press recognition
has been quite favourable.
Canada on the
International StageWe're small, overly polite and
painfully under aggressive.
International
recognition
• Significant international attention
despite being a relatively young
region. (First new winery post
prohibition was granted license in
1974.)
• Both Canadian Icewines and Table
Wines have continuously garnered
attention at International Wine
competitions.
• Early recognition for Table wines was
largely for Riesling and Cabernet
Franc.
• More recent successes have added
Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and
Meritage Blends to the list of common
contenders.
Problems facing
Canada
Internationally
• The Canadian wine industry has often
suffered more from a lack of international
availability than from a lack of interest.
• Most efforts to developing international
markets have been based around icewine.
• Many producers do not export at all.
• There are also a number of wineries that
feel they should build the canadian market
first.
• Much support in the form of British based
wine writers. Glowing reviews are typically
always accompanied by the statement of
"Wine not yet available internationally."
• This is changing however and there has
been an increasing move among producers
to develop export markets.
"Why don’t American drinkers
know that our neighbors to
the north are making world-
class wine? Because
Canadian vintners have been
hiding their light under a
barrel."
Struggles faced by Canadian Wineries
What's holding Canada back?
The Effects of
Prohibition
• Canada had a unique approach to prohibition.
• The government appeased the prohibition
movement by making the sale of alcohol
illegal.
• They let production of alcohol remain
completely legal. Home production was also
legal leading to much home wine making.
• Upon repeal of prohibition the temperance
movement was still a significant force which
led to government controlled liquor sales.
• To this day with few exceptions most
provinces control distribution and sales of
liquor.
• It also remained until very recently illegal for
consumers or producers to ship wine across
provincial borders.
Strict Liquor Sales
• Most provinces still have relics of the
early temperance movements influencing
alcohol sales to this day.
• Within provinces that have a government
run or semi-private alcohol retailing
system laws regarding sales of alcohol
typically attempt to balance the demands
of consumers, religious groups,
temperance movements and public
health all at once.
• This has lead to provinces typically have
few stores, open restricted hours, high
prices and limited product selection.
• Within Ontario everything down to the
number of samples a winery can pour a
given customer is regulated (4 samples).
Taxes and
Production Costs
• In addition to high markups often
mandated by provincial liquor
boards the cost of wines in Canada
in inflated by several factors.
• Taxes both federal and provincial
have a significant influence on the
cost of wine.
• High Standard of living and salary
expectations drive a significant cost
of labour.
• Winter crop loss of up to 50%+
• High cost to transport wines,
equipment and supplies across an
extremely large country.
The Changing
Landscape
• Privatization movements are taking
place across the country.
• Some provinces have already
implemented private or semi-private
alcohol retailing.
• Remaining liquor boards are being
forced to modernize and keep up with
public perception.
• Bill C-311 allowed on a federal level the
shipment of alcohol across provincial
borders.
• Several provinces have however been
less cooperative with the law.
• Increasing support for Canadian Wine
among consumers.
Wineries with US availability
• http://winecountryontario.ca/media-centre/ontario-wine-available-outside-ontario
• https://store.missionhillwinery.com/usa.html
• http://usshop.tinhorn.com/
• https://winebcusa.com/
