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11/8/2014 Preview "Origins Dr Weil Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks" - of Faces and Fingers

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Origins is famous for its plant-based skincare products, and indeed the

brand was one of the first mainstream brands to heavily market itself as a

natural skincare brand. Chances are, you've probably heard of any of their

skincare ranges, with really cute names like Plantidote, A Perfect World, or

GinZing. Despite being around since 1990, the brand is fairly new to me.

I've never tried anything from the brand, so it was some interest that I

started testing out their Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin

Relief Collection.

Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f: Mushrooms and lots of other

p lants to the rescue!

The Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range is a plant-based range and advertises

itself as such, so I thought a quick summary of the science on 1)the oils in

skincare in general, and 2) the oils in the product range, may help to set

the stage.

Origins Dr Weil Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief

Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3

Picks

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The Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f range has a grand total

of seven products to su it all pre ferences.

First things first: A re Oils in Skincare Clogging to MySkin? What Do They Do I n Skincare, Anyway?

I thought this section was necessary as sometimes people think that

applying oils to your skin can clog your skin. This is not totally unfounded.

As I wrote in a previous skincare review, generally, oils with oleic acid

(coconut and argan oil are two examples of oils that are high in oleic acid)

tend to be more clogging than oils that are lower in oleic acid. This in turn

means that how clogging your plant-oil-containing skincare is, depends very

much on the type of oils included. Fortunately, most of the common oils

found in skincare, such as jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and grape seed oil,

aren't that high in oleic acid, so it's not likely that they will clog your skin.

(Of course, if you experience otherwise, stop immediately.)

Chemical structure of the three most common fatty acids in

commonly-used skincare oils(Image source)

So, now that not all plant oils are a cause for alarm, what are these oils

doing in skincare, anyway? Most oils have an emollient effect, as they

smooth the surface of the skin. They also form some sort of barrier function,

preventing water loss from the skin (known as TEWL, or transepidermal

water loss). A high rate of TEWL is often associated with dry skin (obviously,

because the more water your skin loses, the drier it becomes), so lots of

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skincare products are dedicated to reducing TEWL. Additionally, there is

some evidence that acne-prone skin is usually deficient in linoleic acid, so

one theory is that if your plant oils are rich in linoleic acid, then it could

help to alleviate acne by replenishing the deficient linoleic acid. In theory,

you could probably pick an oil (or a mix of oils) that have fairly high linoleic

acid content and lower oleic acid content, and those oils shouldn't make

acne worse. Some oils that have this property include Hemp Seed Oil,

Evening Primrose Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, and Borage

Seed Oil.

Some oils also have other benefits, primarily an anti-oxidant effect. For

example, jojoba seed oil can have anti-oxidant effects, and grape seed oil is

often touted as an anti-oxidant, which is why these oils are so popular. For

people who really love their facial oils, some may like to use only one in the

belief that it is best for their skin type, but others like to mix a couple of oils

to try to get a bunch of benefits from the oils combined (e.g. high linoleic

acid, with some anti-oxidant properties, while feeling relatively lightweight,

etc.).

So as you might guess from this summary, oils, even while lots of people

love them, are quite a personal thing - it really depends on your skin's own

fatty acid content, as well as what the user wants out of the product, and

the skinfeel of the product (because some oils can feel quite heavy on the

skin too).

The bottom line :

1) Not all oils clog your skin. It depends on the fatty acid content

in the oil: the higher the amount of ole ic acid in the oil, the

more clogging it is, while oils rich in linole ic acid could actually

benefit skin types prone to acne. It also depends on your skin 's

own reaction to the oils, of course .

2) The benefits that oils bring to skincare are the ability to leave

an emollient layer on your skin, reducing TEWL (water loss from

the skin) and thus reducing one of the main causes of skin

dryness.

3) Additionally, some oils can have other ancillary benefits when

used in skincare , such as anti-oxidant e ffects.

What About the Oils in the Origins Mega-MushroomSkin R elief Skincare R ange?

The most common oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief skincare

range are Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil and Carthamus Tinctorius

(Safflower) Seed Oil, by far. These appear near the top in almost all the

ingredients list for every product in the range, with the main exceptions

being the Eye Serum, the Face Cream, and the Face Lotion. So I thought it

might be good to take a little bit more of a look at whether there were any

benefits conferred by both oils, since, after all, they are a fairly major

component in the product range.

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A comparison of the fatty acid content of some common oils in

our d iet. Safflower and O live are both included as we ll. (Image

source)

For olive oil, in addition to the usual emollient benefits that plant oils

confer, there is some evidence that The high level of squalane from olive oil

in some products protects the skin's sensitive lipids, and that high

concentration of plant peptides protects the peptide bonds of the skin

proteins. There's also some evidence that olive oil protects against some

UVB damage, possibly through its antioxidant effects. So while I wouldn't

recommend using olive oil as sunscreen wholesale, it's good to know that

there is some proof of its anti-oxidant effects. Additionally, olive oil does

have some anti-inflammatory compounds, so although stronger proof exists

of olive oil's anti-inflammatory properties when consumed (i.e. eaten), it's

possible that when applied topically, there will be some anti-inflammatory

benefits as well. The anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects that olive oil

has comes from the phenolics in the oil, namely oleuropein and

hydroxytyrosol.

Safflower Seed Oil, on the other hand, had less data available. It does have

emollient properties, and it also seems to be fairly high in linolenic acid,

although whether this translates into benefits on the skin is a little

debatable - you could reasonably expect it to work on skin (after all,

replenishing your skin's sebum doesn't require very much penetration into

the lower layers of the skin), but not all studies show this effect. While

there isn't too much other information on safflower oil or safflower seed oil

directly, it is quite similar in composition to sunflower oil, for which there is

a bit more research. Sunflower oil has fairly high levels of tocopherol

(Vitamin E), so it's a good balance to olive oil, which has a much lower

tocopherol content than seed oils. On another note, it seems that safflower

seed oil seems to be promoted by some sites online as part of a "healthier"

diet - perhaps this also stems from its similarity to sunflower oil. There is

also some evidence that sunflower oil might help atopic dermatitis even

more than olive oil, and the same goes for sunflower seed oil.

So as far as olive oil and safflower seed oil go, so far so good. I don't think

there is too much reason to be concerned there. Some of the other oils

that also appear in the product, however, might be a greater concern for

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other users, depending on how sensitive they are to the essential oils.

Essential oils - not just in cosmetics! (Image source)

Some of the minor oils that make an appearance in small amounts are

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia

(Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin

Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, and

Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil. These are mainly used as fragrances in

cosmetics, and the science on these oils are mixed. On the one hand, there

is some limited evidence that some of these oils have some benefits, such

as orange oil having anti-microbial effects, or lavender oil having wound-

healing benefits, or patchouli having some preventive effects against UV

radiation. But the evidence for some of this is quite limited - I could only

find a single study in all the above-mentioned cases, in contrast to the

greater amount of studies done on olive and safflower/sunflower oil. I

usually prefer if I can find multiple studies with conclusion that are in line

with each other, because it indicates that the results are repeatable (i.e.

the original result was not some sort of one-off fluke). And, on the other

hand, some of these fragrant oils can be irritating for some people,

especially in high concentrations. For example, lavender oil can be an

irritant, although not all essential oils are irritants - for example geranium is

fairly low on the irritancy list. So I'd say, it's possible that for some people

they can work, but for others, they just trigger all sorts of skin reactions. My

assessment would be to go ahead cautiously (e.g. with a test patch) and

see how it works for you.

So as far as the plant oils go? The two ones that are present in the largest

amounts, Olive Oil and Safflower Seed Oil, don't seem to be a problem for

most people, but depending on your skin type and sensitivity, some of the

other essential oils might trigger some reaction. So test patch or get a

sample if you think you might have skin that might be sensitive to some of

these oils, but other people might see benefit from them.

The Origins Mega-Mushroom range is advertised as being geared towards

sensitive and inflamed skin, so for those with this skin type, you're probably

wondering at this point, "It sounds like a mixed bag with so many plant oils -

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I don't know what to think!" Well, bear in mind that the fragrant oils are

there only in small amounts, and that the two main oils are still Olive and

Safflower. So if your skin can tolerate the more fragrant oils, you could

potentially benefit from the anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of

both the Olive and Safflower Oils, which can help with skin sensitivity or

irritation.

The bottom line :

1) The two main oils present in the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f

range in larger amounts are olive oil and safflower seed oil. Other

oils that are present in much smalle r amounts are sweet orange

oil, lavender oil, patchouli oil, mandarin orange pee l oil, geranium

oil, and olibanum oil.

2 ) The two main oils, olive oil and safflower seed oil, confer

emollient benefits when used on skin. Additionally, olive oil could

confer anti- inflammatory and anti-oxidant e ffects as we ll.

Safflower oil has a fair leve l of linole ic acid, and could confer

anti-oxidant properties.

3) The rest of the lesser oils are primarily used as fragrances in

cosmetics. The science is mixed, with some studies showing these

oils to have beneficial e ffects, e .g. anti-microbial or wound-

healing benefits, while other studies raise concerns that such oils

cn be irritating for some others. The effect of these oils may

depend on your skin type, so if you get the chance to, a test

patch is a good idea.

4) If your skin is tole rant towards the essential oils in low

amounts, then the products, be ing comprised main ly of olive and

safflower oil, may he lp with skin irritation or sensitiv ity.

My Top Three Picks From The Mega-Mushroom SkinR elief R ange

The Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range, because it uses primarily the

same plant-based oils and extracts for the bulk of most of its products, ends

up with somewhat similar formulations from product to product within the

range. In some ways, this is a good thing - it means that if you've tried one

product in the range, and really like it, chances are, you'll like the entire

range. But which product should you start off with, if you're just dipping

your toes into the range and don't want to buy everything at once? Ahh,

decisions, decisions. Fortunately, after trying the entire range, here are my

top three picks! (If you want to know more about other products in the

range, do feel free to leave a comment, but to keep this post from getting

too long, I'll just focus on my favourites for now).

First, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Soothing Treatment Lotion .

This is one of the products that is more geared towards oily skin, as it is

more water-based.

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Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Soothing Treatment Lotion:

More emollient than your typ ical moisturizer.

Here's the ingredients list:

Water, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Water, Butylene

Glycol, PEG-4, Hypsizygus Ulmarius (Mushroom) Mycelium Extract,

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Curcuma Longa

(Turmeric) Root Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom)

Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum

(Holy Basil) Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange)

Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin

(Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil,

Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii

(Olibanum) Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol,, Aloe

Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract,

Centaurium Erythraea (Centaury) Extract, Sucrose, PEG-40

Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Glycerin, Glycereth-26,

Sodium Hyaluronate, Trehalose, Tromethamine, Disodium

Cocoamphodiacetate, Pentylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Disodium

EDTA, Phenoxyethanol.

You can see that other than water (which appears twice in the ingredients

list - once as water and once as Chamomile Flower water) there are also

some of the plant extracts and oils that I mentioned earlier. There are also

other emollients (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), humectants (Glycerin,

Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol), and emulsifiers to ensure everything

stays mixed and doesn't separate (PEG-4, Trideceth-9). I'd say that the main

attraction of this product would probably be the plant extracts which I've

talked about earlier, because the remaining formulation is rather simple,

consisting of primarily emollients and humectants. From the formulation,

which consists of lighter-feeling ingredients (Water and Butylene Glycol

being the primary ones), you would expect this to have a light, watery

texture, too.

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Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Soothing Treatment Lotion: A

watery, Japanese-style lotion with more emollient properties than

most.

And sure enough, as expected, when I tried this out, it was a watery lotion

(think of the Japanese-style lotions) that absorbed very fast. I felt like it did

help to moisturize my skin in this hot and humid climate, but because it was

mostly water, if you're in a dry climate, you may want to follow up with a

moisturizer. In warmer months though (like Singapore now!), this might just

be sufficient if you have oily skin. I picked this because I thought it

represented a good option from the range for oilier skins that want to try

out a skincare product from the Mega-Mushroom range.

Secondly, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum.

This would be my pick for normal to dry skin - it's not for the driest of skins

(for that, you can opt for the Soothing Face Cream as well), but hydrates

pretty well across the board.



Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum:

Packed with emollients and p lant extracts.

Take a look at the ingredients list:

Water, Jojoba Seed Oil, Glycerin, Yeast Extract, Olive Fruit Oil,

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Meadowfoam Seed

Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,

Orange Oil, Lavender Oil, Patchouli)Oil, Mandarin Orange Peel Oil,

Geranium Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil, Geraniol,

Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Pleurotus Ostreatus (Mushroom)

Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Inonotus

Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract,

Ginger Root Extract Turmeric Root Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis

Extract, Mango Leaf Extract, Evening Primrose Oil, Sunflower Seed

Oil, Grapefruit Peel Extract, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Olive Fruit

Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Spike Moss Extract,

Wheat Bran Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Shea Butter,

Mango Seed Butter, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Dimethicone,

Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Corn Oil, Tocotrienols,

Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate,

Calcium Carbonate, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

The first thing you'll notice is the plant oils and extracts that I've mentioned.

There really are a lot of them, and Origins seems to have formulated with

them in fairly high concentrations, which is good if that's the main reason

you're buying the product. Other than the plant extracts, you'll find

primarily humectants (Glycerin), emollients (Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic

Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin). Again, the primary benefit of this,

other than the plant extracts, is the skin-conditioning benefits, and

hydration.

Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum: A lso

similar to the Soothing Face Lotion in fee l and application.



So, when I used this product, I was expecting it to be quite thick or heavy,

given how many emollients were in there. Surprisingly, it was more like a

light gel, which absorbed fast. It's moisturizing enough that I didn't feel like I

had to use another product over it, but if you live in a dry or cold climate

you might wish to do so anyway because this light lotion alone may not be

sufficient. I picked this because I thought that as a fast absorbing serum

with emollient and hydration benefits, this would be one that most people

would find usable in their skincare regime.

Now, the lone eye product in the Mega-Mushroom range, which is the

Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum. Out of the 8 products in the

Mega-Mushroom range, this is the only one for the eye, which is why I

picked it.

Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum: An eye serum

with emollients and humectants.

Since you've seen the ingredients list for the previous two products, you'll

probably know what to expect this time round:

Water, Myrtus Communis (Myrtle) Leaf Water, Anthemis Nobilis

(Chamomile) Flower Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Yeast Extract,

Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 40, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate,

Silica, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,

Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Cordyceps

Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root

Extract, Ocimum Sanctum (Holy Basil) Leaf Extract, Selaginella

Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange)

Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin

(Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil,

Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii

(Olibanum) Oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Vitis Vinifera

(Grape) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Curcuma

Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel

Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Prunus



Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Silybum Marianum

(Lady's Thistle) Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed

Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse

Chestnut) Bark Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Perilla

Ocymoides Seed Extract, Glycerin, Adenosine Phosphate,

Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Tromethamine, Tribehenin, Myristyl

Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Linoleic

Acid, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Creatine, Dextrin, Coleus

Barbatus Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate,

Phytosphingosine, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin,

Sorbic Acid

Ingredients-wise, this is full of emollients (Cetyl Ricinoleate is the main one,

but there are others like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), and humectants

(Butylene Glycol primarily, but you can also see things like Sodium

Hyaluronate and Glycerin). There are also a couple of silicones (Methyl

Trimethicone, Dimethicone) which in this case also function primarily as

emollients. Of course, there are emulsifiers (Polysorbate 4, PEG-100

Stearate) which is necessary in any product combining oil and water. Again,

as with the face products, the main draw of this product would be the plant

extracts, because the remainder of the formulation is pretty stripped-down,

with Origins choosing to let the plant oils and extracts take center stage.

Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum: A light but

emollient eye serum.

The first thing I noticed when I used the Skin Relief Eye Serum was that it

doesn't have the citrus-y, linanool-like scent that I found all the other

products in the range to have so far. Perhaps this is because it's formulated

for the eye area, and they wanted to keep it suitable for the eye. I couldn't

really place the scent of this - it was more subtle (perhaps mushroom-y

might be a way to describe it), but in any case, after application there isn't

any scent. And as expected, with the emolliency of the product, I felt like it

did moisturize my eye area. It feels more thin and balmy (like a lighter

version of a facial oil) than thick and creamy however, once you rub it in,



and after a few seconds it absorbs fairly fast. Origins claims that this is a

serum and you can use it under your eye cream, but depending on your

skin type, if your skin isn't particularly dry, you may find that this does a

good enough job of moisturizing your skin on its own.

Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Range: Best for dry skin that

needs some he lp repairing the barrie r function.

So, what's my overall view on the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range? In

order to answer this question, we'll need to consider two key features of

the skincare range, namely 1) it is formulated generally with quite a lot of

emollient products (especially the serums and cream products), and 2) it is

formulated with quite a significant number of plant oils and extracts.

So, let's start off with the first point. Since the range is formulated to be

generally quite emollient, I'd say you'll probably like this best if you have dry

skin to start off with. People with aging skins might also like this, because

skin tends to get drier as it ages. If you have oily skin, then you might want

to pick the more lightly-formulated lotion products (the Soothing Treatment

Lotion and Soothing Face Lotion are good picks) rather than go for the

serums and the creams. If you have very dry skin, then the Soothing Face

Cream, with its thicker texture, will probably be better for you. So do play

around with the range to see what products you like best - after all, this is

a range with two lotions, a serum, and a cream all for your face only. So

some judicious choosing of products will help here.

Now, let's go on to the second point - the plant oils and extracts. I've

already spoken enough about the scientific literature behind the oils and

extracts, so I'd like to in my conclusion mention something about how this

range is marketed. One thing that I really respected about the product was

its commitment to its advertising - it advertises itself as a natural, plant-

based product, and sure enough, the ingredients are indeed comprised

largely of plant extracts. That impressed me on its own because I've seen

lots of brands advertise themselves as being "natural", yet when you look

the ingredients list, it's clear that the plant extracts come in below the

preservative line, at levels of less than 0.1%. So to be fair, if you're a



(Product was sent for review. Review is my complete and honest opinion. I am not affiliated

with/compensated by the company.)

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Cleanser, Eye Cream, Face Mask, Ingredients Analysis, Lotion, Moisturizer, Origins, Serum, Skincare,

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consumer looking for more plant oils and extracts in your skin, this is a

range you could check out.

In all, I'd say if you 1) have dry skin 2) like plant-based skincare and can

tolerate plant extracts/oils in your products, this is worth checking out. If

you have oily skin, you might want to test out some of the lotion products

before making a purchase. If you want to try samples of the product, you

can visit an Origins counter for a skin consultation, or you can also visit the

Clozette website to redeem some samples.

RE COMME NDE D? FORMULATION PACKAG INGE ASE OF

USEE FFE CTIVE NE SS

DE PE NDS ON SKIN

SE NSITIVITY 7/10 8/10 8/10 7/10

THE BOTTOM LINE: THIS IS PROBABLY A LOVE-IT-OR-HATE-IT TYPE PRODUCT, WITH ITS HEAVYUSAGE OF PLANT OILS AND EXTRACTS. IF YOU

HAVE SKIN THAT SUITS THOSE TYPES OFINGREDIENTS, THEN YOU'LL FIND THIS A GREAT

WAY TO MOISTURIZE YOUR SKIN, WITH SOMEADDITIONAL BENEFITS.

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question in your comment, please check back to this post, as I will reply in a comment

to this post as well :) Please note that comments with soliciting links to shops or

websites will be removed. Thanks!

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