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Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve Summer 2007

V I S I TOR GU I DE

Bears............................page 17

Boating Guide.............page 20

Trails...........................page 28

� Visitor Information

toGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve,oneofAmerica’spremiernaturalwildernessareasadministeredbytheDepartmentoftheInterior,NationalParkService.Thisparkisoneof16nationalparksinAlaskaandover385nationwide.

In1925,PresidentCalvinCoolidgeusedpowersgrantedhimbytheAntiquitiesActtosetasideGlacierBayNationalMonumentto:protectthescenicbeautyofglaciers,geologiclandformsanddiversityoflifethatissoabundanthere;provideforscientificresearch;allowyou,theparkvisitor,toexperienceandlearnaboutthisspecialplace.

ThroughanactofCongressin1980,itbecameanationalpark.Preservelandswereadded.Today’snationalparkandpreservetotalsalmost3.3millionacres.Inadditiontoitsabundantwildlife,glaciers,andunsurpassedscenery,GlacierBayisacknowledgedashavingaworld-classmarineecosystem.IthasreceivedinternationalrecognitionasbothaWorldHeritageSiteandBiosphereReserve.

Thisguideoffersmanyideasforexploringthepark.Wewelcomeyourquestionsandcomments,andappreciateyourinterestandhelpincaringforthiswildernessarea.Itis,afterall,yournationalpark.

Haveawonderfulvisit!

Tomie Patrick LeeSuperintendent

WelcomeVisitor Information

ExploringBartlettCove...........................................3

ManagingforWildness...........................................4

GlacierBayasHomeland........................................5

Glacier-MakingWeatherandRecycling...............6

Tides...........................................................................7

Glaciers..................................................................8-9

Park History....................................................10-11

Science in the Park

InvasivePlantManagement.................................12

BearResearch........................................................12

TheAcousticWorldofWhales...........................13

Wildlife

WildlifeViewing...............................................14-15

Life’sNoPicnic.....................................................16

Bears..................................................................17-19

Boater and Camper Essentials

BartlettCoveServices.........................................20

ParkRegulations...................................................21

BoatingInformation.......................................22-24

WhaleWatchinginWhaleWaters......................25

CampingInformation....................................26-27

BartlettCoveTrails..............................................28

Trip Planning.....................................................30

Junior Ranger Activities.............................31

Emergency Information.......................back

Table of Contents

FairweatherProduced and Designed by:

Park Coordinator: Rosemarie SalazarWriter: Ingrid Nixon

Contributors: Fawn Bauer, Bill Eichenlaub, Chris Gabriele, Margaret Hazen, Wayne Howell, Tania Lewis, Gus Martinez, Ingrid Nixon, Whitney Rapp, Rosemarie Salazar, Maya Seraphin, Lewis Sharman, Arch Thompson, Chuck Young.

Special thanks to the following photographers: Alex Andrews, Fawn Bauer, Tom Bean, Dave Bohn Collection, Mark Jefferson, Fritz Koschmann, Tania Lewis, Jim Luthy, Dave Mills, Sean Neilson, Rosemarie Salazar, Ellie Sharman, Chad Soiseth, Jamie Womble.

Printing: Anchorage Daily NewsPrinted on recycled paper

The Fairweather is published by the Alaska Natural History Association in cooperation with Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. It is funded by revenue generated from Alaska Natural History Association bookstore sales.

©Alaska Natural History Association

�

Exploring Bartlett CoveIf you just have a few hours...Visit the National Park Service Visitor Center:OnthesecondflooroftheGlacierBayLodge,youwillfindtheInformationDeskisopendailywithbooksandavarietyofexhibitsthatexplorethewondersofGlacierBay.DuringthattimebooksandeducationalmaterialsfromtheAlaskaNaturalHistoryAssociationareavailableforpurchase.

Catch a Film: TheNationalParkServiceshowsseveraldifferentfilmsdailyintheAuditorium.

2p.m.TreasuresoftheGreatLand:Alaska’sNationalParks(22min.)5p.m.GlacierBay:ForeverWild(18min.)7p.m.GlacierBay:BeneaththeReflections(28min.)

Walk the Forest Loop Trail: Goonyourownorwitharanger.Dailyranger-ledwalksmeetinthelodgelobbyanddepartat2:30p.m.forthis1.5-hourwalk.Seetraildetails,page28.

Go for a Beach Walk: Seetraildetails,page28.

Take in an Evening Program:Joinarangerintheauditoriumat9p.m.forapresentationaboutthepark.

If you have a half day...Hike to the Bartlett River:Seetraildetails,page28.

If you have a full day...Cruise the Bay:Thisall-dayboattripuptotheglaciersshouldnotbemissed!Seethelodgefrontdeskfordetailsandtopurchaseyourticket.Binoculars,extrafilm,andwarmclothingarehighlyrecommended.

Hike to Bartlett Lake:Seetraildetails,page28.

Go for a Paddle: ThereareseveraloptionsforkayakingaroundBartlettCove.TakeaguidedkayaktripwithAlaskaDiscovery(advancedreservationsappreciated),orrentakayakfromGlacierBaySeaKayaksandpaddleyourown.ExperienceGlacierBayupclose.Youneverknowwhatyoumightsee!

Become a Junior Ranger:KidscanvisittherangerattheNPSInformationDesktopickuptheirfreeJuniorRangerActivityBook.Seepage31fordetails.

Get the Latest Schedule of EventsPleaseseetheNationalParkServiceInformationDeskorthebulletinboardinfrontoftheGlacierBayLodge

forupdates,deskhours,andeveningprogramtopics.

Visitor Information


Managing for WildernessTheoverwhelmingmajorityofvisitorstoGlacierBaycomeinboats—bothlargeandsmall.Parkmanagersdefinehowmanyboatsshouldbeinthebayandhowtheyshouldoperateinamannerthatpro-tectstheparkresources,wildernesscharacter,andvisitorexperience.

Theparkbegantomanagevesselsinthelate1970s,whenconcernsarosethatmarinetrafficmightadverselyaffectendangeredhumpbackwhalesthatfeedinthebayduringthesummermonths.

In2003,theNationalParkServicecompletedanenvironmentalimpactstatementthatlookedatvesselnumbersandpotentialimpacts.Privatecitizens,scientists,businessoperators,stateandlocalgovernmentsaswellasotherfederalagenciestookpartintheprocess,whichdeterminedhowvesselswouldbemanagedforthenext10to15yearsinGlacierBayNationalPark.ARecordofDecision,signedinNo-vember2003,documentsthedecisiontomodifyvesselnumbersandoperatingrequirements.Newregula-tionsimplementingthesechangesarecurrentlybeingpromulgatedandareexpectedtobeinplacebythissummer.

Someissuesdecidedintheprocessinclude:

Cruiseship,tourboat,andchartervesseloperationswillcontinueasinthepastwithspecificquotas.Thenumberofcruiseshipspermittedtoenterthebaywillstayatnomorethantwoperday.ThetotalnumberofshipsallowedentryJunethroughAugustcouldin-creasefrom139to184.Suchadecision,however,wouldonlybemadebasedonrecommendationsbyascienceadvisoryboardcomprisedofexpertsinsuchareasasthemarineenvironment,airquality,wil-dernessvalues,noiselevels,andrecreation.

Newregulationswillreflectchangesregardingvesselspeedsandtravelrestrictionswhensignificantnumbersofhumpbackwhalesareinthebay.

Privateboatersshouldfindthevesselpermittingprocessmuchsimplerwithalargerallocationofpermitsavailableonshortnotice,andmoreflexibilitywithenteringandexitingthepark.

Managementofnationalparksisanongoingprocess.WeencourageyoutotalktoarangerorvisitourwebsiteformoreinformationonissuesaffectingGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve.Getinvolved.Afterall,thisisyournationalpark.www.nps.gov/glba

�Visitor Information

Glacier Bay as HomelandImaginethatyoucanholdGlacierBayinthepalmofyourhand.Itissmoothandround,aboutthesizeofalargeegg.Itisheavy,precious.Slowlyyoubegintopeelbackitslayers,itsmeanings.Thefirstlayer,worldheritagesite,comesoff.Next,youpeelawaythelayerforthebiospherereserve.Youarenowlookingatthelayerforthenationalparkandpreserve.Gentlyyoupeelthataway.Nakedandvulnerable,wildernesstremblesinyourpalm.Asyoumarvelatthebeauty,thefragility,somethingcatchesyoureye.Yourealizethatbyholdingthelanduptothelightjustso,youcanseeanotherimagedistinctyetintangibleasthemorningmists.Thisnewimagerevealstheessenceoflifeforagroupofpeople,theHoonahTlingit.

TotheHoonahTlingit,GlacierBayisnotonlytheplacewheretheyoncelived,hunted,fished,collectedeggsandberries.Itisthecenterfromwhichtheygaintheiridentityaspeople—theirspiritualhomeland.

ThemodernvillageofHoonahisinPortFrederickonIcyStrait.Traditionally,fourHoonahTlingitclansoccupiedterritoriesinandaroundGlacierBay.WhenGlacierBaybecameanationalmonumentin1925,itsbordersencompassedmuchofthetraditionalHoonahTlingithomeland.NewfederallawsseverelycurtailedNativeactivitieswithinthemonumentboundaries.SobeganapainfulperiodofHoonahTlingitandNationalParkServicerelations.

Buttimehasbroughtsomehealing.Inrecentyears,theNationalParkServicehasmaintainedanopendialoguewiththeHoonahTlingitandhasactivelyencouragedthemtoreturntotheparktocarryouttraditionalac-tivitiesthatarecompatiblewithcurrentregulations,suchasberrypicking.TheparkhassponsoredboattripsforHoonahschoolchildrenandelderstocomeintothebaysotheyouthsmaylearntra-ditionalwaysofknowingintheveryplacethatfiguressoprominentlyintheirspirituallives.ScientificstudiesarealsounderwaytodetermineifitispossibletoallowtheHoonahTlingittoresumeharvestinggulleggs,seals,andmountaingoatswithintheparkwithoutadverselyimpactingpopulations.

YouwillfindtheHoonahTlingitpresenceinandaroundBartlettCove.TheseaotterhuntingcanoeondisplaynexttotheVisitorInformationStationwas

carvedintheparkin1987byateamofNativecarvers.LookfortwoTlingittrailmarkerscarvedintolivingsprucetreesnearGlacierBayLodge;oneonthetrailleadingdowntothedockfromthelodgeandtheotheralongtheForestLoopTrail.Depictinganoctopusandaneaglerespectively,thesecarvingsaremodernrendi-tionsofmarkingsoriginallyusedtoshowclanowner-shipovertraderoutes.Today,theyserveasremindersofancienttiestotheland.

Ultimately,wewillallcarrywithinusslightlydifferentversionsoftheessencethatisGlacierBay.Wemayguarditcarefully.Fromtimetotime,wecantakeitouttoholdinourpalm,toadmireandsharewithoth-ers.Carefullypeelingbackthelayersofourexperience,wewillrediscoverthewonderswefoundtobesacred.Andifweholdituptothelightjustright,itmightre-vealsomethingmore.

AvisitorpausesduringawalkalongtheForestLoopTrailtoadmiretheTlingittrailmarkerthatwascarvedintoalivingsprucetree.


Glacier-Making WeatherGlacierBayhasamaritimeclimate,heavilyinfluencedbyoceancurrents.Theresultismildwintertemperaturesandcoolsummertemperaturesnearsealevel.Summervisitorscanexpecthighsbetween50º-to-60ºF(10º-15ºC).Wintertemperaturesrarelydropintothesingledigits,withaveragenighttimelowsinthemid-20sandhighsintheupper-30s.

BartlettCovereceivesabout70-75inchesofprecipitationannually.Youmayfindyourselfthinkingit’sallcomingdownduringyourvisit.April,May,andJuneareusuallythedriestmonthsoftheyear,whileSeptem-berandOctobertendtobethewettest.Allthismoisturehelpstocreatethelushtemperaterainforestsofthelowerbay.

Keepinmind,theseareweatherconditionsatsealevel.Upinthemountains,conditionsaremoreseverewithcoldertemperaturesandmoreprecipitationthattakestheformofsnow.It’sallthatsnowfallingyearafteryearthatgoesintocreatingthemagnificentglacierswelovetosee.

What to Wear?TheweatherinGlacierBaycanchangequicklyoverthecourseoftheday,especiallyifyouaretravelingintothebay.Dressingappropriatelywillenhanceyourtripbyal-lowingyoutostayoutintheelementsandmakethemostofwildlifeandglacierviewing.Remember:it’susuallycooleronthewaterandnearglaciers.

Inevitably,conductingbusinessinthismodernworldrequiresusingresources.Operatinganationalparkisnodifferent.Throughcreativeplanningandcooperativeef-forts,however,parkmanagersareseekingwaystoreducetheimpactsthatcomewithoperations.

ParkmanagersareworkingcloselywiththeGustavusCommunityLandfilltocomeupwithaholisticwastemanagementplanfortheareatorecycle,shareresources,andavoidduplicatingefforts.

Tofacilitatetheprocess,parkofficesandhousingareasareprovidedwithseparatereceptaclesforpapers,plas-tics,metals,glass,compostables,andnon-recyclables.

Receptaclesforcampers,boaters,andotherparkusersarelocatedneartheVisitorInformationStation.Thisinitialseparationhelpsmakeitpossibleforupto65percentofwastegeneratedinday-to-dayparkoperationstogoontoanotherlife.

Over95percentofthepark’ssolidwasteissortedandshippedtoJuneauforprocessing.Aluminum,paperproducts,steel,and#1and#2plasticsgoontorecyclingcenters.Locally,foodwastefromtheparkandthelodge,woodchipsandbrushfromdownedtreesandclearingarecompostedintotopsoilforthecommunity.Compost-edsewagesludgeisusedasfertilizer.Anyglassyouthrowawayintheparkwillbepulverizedintosmallnon-sharpparticlesandusedtostabilizeroadbeds.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle

How can you help?PleaseseparateyourwasteintotheappropriatebinsneartheVisitorInformationStation.

Thank you!

�Visitor Information

ThetidalfluctuationsinGlacierBaycanbeashighas25feet.Thismeansthatonemomentyoumaybe

standingonthebeachlookingatmudflatsstretchingoutfor100yardsandhourslaterthewaterislappingatyourtoes.Orworse:oneminuteyou’vepulledyourkayakuponshoresoyoucanenjoylunch,butyouwakeup30minuteslaterfromyourpost-lunchnaptoseeyourkayakfloatingaway.

Tidesresultfromthegravitationalpullbetweenthesunandthemoon,andtheirrelationshiptothe

earth.Asthesethreecelestialbod-iesareconstantlyinmotion,theamountofgravitationalpullvariesandthetidelevelschange.Becauseit’scloser,themoonhasthestrongestinfluenceonthetides.Itsgravi-tationalattractioncauses

thewatersurroundingtheearthtobulge.Itbulgesonthesideclosesttothemoonduetogravitationalpull.Thebulgeontheoppositesideoftheearthisduetocentrifugalforce.

ThereareusuallytwohighandtwolowtidesdailyontheWestCoast.Thetimesforhighsandlowsshiftabout50minuteslateronconsequentdays.Thismeansifhightideisat9:00a.m.oneday,itwillbehighatabout9:50a.m.thenextday,around10:40a.m.thenext,andsoon.Localconditions,suchastopography,alsoinfluencethetidesandthecurrentstheygenerate.TheentrancetoGlacierBayisnarrow,yetagreatdealofwatermustrushthroughthatopeningtwicedaily,creatingcurrentsinSitakadayNarrowsasstrongassevenknots.

Toseethisincredibleforceinaction,walkdowntothewater’sedgeaboutanhourafterhighorlowtide.Fixyourgazeonashellorapieceofseaweedandwatchhowitsproximitytothewater’sedgechangesinjustminutes.Besuretokeepthatinmindwhenyoudecidetoenjoyanafter-lunchnaponyournextpaddlingadventure.

Tides

You hardly need to spend

more than six hours in

Bartlett Cove to realize

that there is something

interesting going on with

the tides.

� Glaciers

Rivers of IceAglacierisbornhighinthemountains,wheretheonlyprecipitationthatfallsissnow,andthesnowthatfallsdoesnotmelt.Aslightdepressiononthemountainsidecatchesthissnow.Yearafteryear,thesnowflakespileup.Soonthesheerweightofthisvastaccumulationpressesdownonitself.Thesnowcompresses.Theflakeschangeshapeandfuseintoice.Eventually,theweightoftheiceistoomuchforthedepressiontoholdagainstgravityandtheicebeginstoflowdownhillseekingequilibrium.Nowthatit’smoving,it’saglacier.

Likeariver,theglacierflowsdownthemountainchoosingthepathofleastresistance.Asitmoves,itincorporatesrocksintoitslowerlayers.Theseacquiredrocksgrindawayatthebedrock.Intime,theglacialicewillcarvedeepvalleysinthemountainside.

Whentheicereacheslower,warmerelevations,itbeginstomelt.Eventuallythelossthroughmeltingisgreaterthanthesupplyoficeflowingdownthemountain.Theglacierceasestomakefurtherprogress,thoughthebodyoficeisstillmovingdownthemountain.Atthispoint,theglacierislikeaone-wayconveyorbeltmovingiceoutofthemountainsintothevalleys.

Glaciologistshaveidentifieddifferenttypesofglaciersbasedontheircharacteristics.Forexample,aglacierthatremainsconfinedwithinvalleywallsisavalleyglacier.Ifitflowsoutofthevalleyandspreadsout,it’sapiedmontglacier.Ifitsimplydropsoutofthevalley,it’sahangingglacier.ButthetypeofglaciermostfolksinGlacierBayareinterestedinisthetypethatendsinthesea:thetidewaterglacier.

Comparedtoglacialice,seawateriswarmandhighlyerosive.Wavesandtidesworkawayattheunstableglacierface,causinghugechunkstocalveorbreakoffintotheocean.

Barringsignificantclimatechanges,aglacierisinaconstantstateofrenewal.Newsnowwillcontinuetofallinthemountainbasintoreplacethesnowthathascompactedintoiceandbeguntoflowdownhill.Thelengthoftimeittakesforasnowflakethatfallsinthemountainstoemergeattheend,orterminus,ofaglaciervaries,dependingonthespeedatwhichtheglacierisflowing.Scientistsestimateiceyouseeatthefaceofthepark’sglacierstobearound200yearsold.

Blue Ice, White Ice

“The Master Builder chose for a tool, not the thunder and lightning to rend and split asunder, not the stormy torrent nor the eroding rain, but the tender snowflake, noiselessly falling through unnumbered generations.”

—JohnMuir

If you’ve ever played with a prism in the sunlight, you know that natural light is made up of all the colors of the rainbow.

Eachcoloroflighthasaspecificwavelengthandcertainamountofenergy.Colorssuchasredandyellowhavelongwavelengthsandconsequentlylowenergy.Butblue,withitsshortwavelengths,hashighenergy.

Glaciericeismadeupoflarge,tightlypackedicecrystals.Whensunlighthitsglacierice,theiceactslikeaprismandseparatesthelightaccordingtoitswavelength.Lowenergycolorslikeredandyellowareabsorbedbytheice.Bluehasenoughenergytoreflectouttooureyes.

Ifthesurfaceoftheglaciericebecomesweatheredoriftheicecontainsmanyairbubbles,thebluelightbecomesdiffused.Theiceappearswhite.

�Glaciers

Sea Turtles in Glacier Bay?TheEarth’sclimateischanging—andfast!Climatechangeisreal,andtheworldwillbedifferentbecauseofit.TheincreaseinglobaltemperaturehasaffectedalmostalloftheglaciersinAlaska.Theglaciershavethinnedsignificantly,andmoreimportantly,therateofthinningisincreasing.

WhatdoesthefutureholdforGlacierBay?Assumingglobalwarmingcontinuesatthepresentrate,theglacierswilllikelycontinuetomelt.Warmertemperatureswillalsochangetheenvironmentalconditionsforthepark’swildlifeandplants.Forexample,springandfallmigra-tions,suchassongbirdsandhumpbackwhales,mayoccurearlierintheyear.Speciesdistributionsandthemixoforganismswillchangeasrangesarepushednorthward.Wemayevenhavevisitsbyseaturtlesandwhite-sideddolphins!

Glacialmeltingandawarmingocean(waterexpandswhenwarmed)willcontributetosealevelrise.Fortunately,though,GlacierBay’sshorelinesareunlikelytobeinundated.Asthepark’sglaciersmeltandremovetheirgreatweightfromtheland,theEarth’scrustwillslowly“bounceupward”tocompensate.This“isostaticrebound”shouldmorethankeepupwithrisingsealevel.

Thenexttimeyouarenearsaltwatertakeagoodlookaround.Youcanbeguaranteedthatthenexttimeyouvisit,itwillbedifferent.TheEarth’sclimateischangingandGlacierBayiswarming—howwillthesechangesaffectyou?

Glacier

GrandPacific

JohnsHopkins

Lamplugh

Margerie

McBride

Muir

Reid

Riggs

HeightAboveandBelowWaterline

60-180feetabove0-60feetbelow

250feetabove200feetbelow

150-180feetabove10-40feetbelow

250feetabove50-100feetbelow

200-250feetaboveest.300feetbelow

30feetabove0feetbelow

>20-130feetabove0-10feetbelow

20-90feetabove0feetbelow

Width

2miles

1mile

.75miles

1mile

.5miles

.5miles

.75miles

.75miles

Length

34.5miles

12.5miles

16miles

21miles

12miles

12.5miles

9.5miles

14.5miles

Flow Rate(infeet)

1-4feet/day350-1,200feet/year

10-15feet/day4,000feet/year



15-20feet/day5,000-7,000feet/year*

.5feet/day150feet/year*

1-3feet/day800feet/year*1-2feet/day600feet/year*

Status

SlowlyReceding/Thinning

Advancing/Thickening

StabletoReceding/Thinning

Stable

RapidlyReceding




10 1110 11

A Brief Timeline of Glacier Bay Prehistoric to present: Tlingit Indians and their

ancestors had both permanent and seasonal settlements in much of what is now Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Several hundred years ago at the end of the Little Ice Age, advancing glaciers forced the Tlingit people to abandon their villages and move to Hoonah, across Icy Strait from Glacier Bay.

Today, many Hoonah Tlingits still regard Glacier Bay as their ancestral home, and feel a special connection to it. See page 5.

1877 Lieutenant C.E.S. Wood hired Tlingit guides to hunt mountain goats in the St. Elias Mountains. Convinced instead to hunt in Glacier Bay, he encountered Tlingit seal hunters encamped in several places. Wood was the first outsider to record a detailed account of native life, wildlife and scenery.

1778 Captain James Cook of the H.M.S. Resolution names Mt. Fairweather. His crew includes George Vancouver and William Bligh.

1750 The Little Ice Age is ending and the glaciers begin to retreat.

1794 Captain George Vancouver of the H.M.S. Discovery and Lt. Joseph Whidbey describe Glacier Bay as “a compact sheet of ice as far as the eye could distinguish.” The “bay” is a mere 5-mile indentation in the coastline.

1786 Captain Jean-Francois de Galaup de Lapérouse’s party of the Boussole and Astrolabe while in Lituya Bay described the native peoples they met there, and the cartographers created the first detailed maps of park landforms. The expedition met tragedy on July 13 when 21 sailors were lost in the tidal bore at the mouth of Lituya Bay.

1786 1800 1850

Glaciers10 11

10 1110 11

1900 1950 2000

1879 Guided by Tlingit Indians from Fort Wrangell, John Muir enters the bay in a dugout canoe accompanied by a Presbyterian missionary named S. Hall Young. Glacial ice has retreated into the bay 40 miles since 1794.

1890 Muir makes his third visit to Glacier Bay, this time constructing a cabin at the base of Mt. Wright. He makes extensive observations of glaciers and explains the interglacial tree stumps.

1916 William S. Cooper, ecologist from the University of Minnesota, arrives in Glacier Bay to begin a study of plant succession. He returns five more times between 1921 and 1966.

1953 Canadian Pacific Steamship Company brings the first modern cruise ships into the area.

1980 The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act is signed into law. Glacier Bay becomes a national park. Preserve lands are added. The new park and preserve total almost 3.3 million acres.

1992 Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve — together with Wrangell/St. Elias National Park (Alaska), Kluane National Park Reserve (Canada) and Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park (Canada) — becomes part of a 24-million-acre World Heritage Site.

1880 Guided by a Tlingit Indian named Tyeen, John Muir and Young return to visit Taylor Bay, Dundas Bay and what will become known as Muir Glacier. Stickeen, a small dog, is part of the expedition.

1884 Captain Carroll pilots the side-wheel steamer Ancon to Muir Glacier, which will become a popular tourist destination until the 1899 earthquake.

1899 On September 10 a tremendous earthquake centered in Yakutat Bay causes rapid and extensive calving in Glacier Bay, leaving the waters ice-choked and impassable to ships.

1922 Cooper suggests national monument status for Glacier Bay to the Ecological Society of America.

1925 President Coolidge establishes Glacier Bay National Monument on February 26.

1939 A presidential proclamation by Franklin Roosevelt doubles the size of Glacier Bay National Monument.

1966 Glacier Bay Lodge opens.

1986 Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, along with Admiralty Island National Monument, is designated an International Biosphere Reserve.

1995 The National Park Service and Hoonah Tlingits sign a Memorandum of Understanding, establishing a working relationship.

1998-1999 Congress passes legislation regarding the management of commercial fishing activities in Glacier Bay National Park.

2006 About 400,000 people visited Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve.

Park History10 11

1�

Science in the Park

Invasive Plant Management

Bear Research and Adaptive Management

VisitorstoAlaskaexpectoverwhelmingsceneryandwildernessexperiences,andGlacierBaydoesnotdisappoint.However,ifyoulookcloseryouwillnoticeasilentinvasionunderway.AformofbiologicalpollutionistakingrootinGlacierBay’slandscape.

Thirty-threenon-nativeplantspeciesgrowwithinthepark.Unlikelitteringwhereasinglepieceofgarbagemaypersist,oneintroducedplantcanincreaseexponentiallyandaffectlargeareas.Non-native,invasive,alien,exotic,introducedandnon-indigenousaresynonymsthatimplythathumansintroducedaspeciestoalocationwhereitisnotnaturallyfound.Theseintroductionscannegativelyaffecthumanhealth,economics,andtheenvironment.Invasivespeciesarethesecondgreatestthreattoworldbiodiversitybehindhabitatloss.

Since2004researchershaveconductedinventoriesforinvasiveplantinfestationsthenworkedtocontrolthemostaggressivespeciesbypullingordigging.Eachyearover1,000acresaresurveyedand3,000poundsareremoved.Commondandelion,themostwidelydistributedinvasivespeciesinthepark,isthreateningtoinvadeeventheglacialregions.Thespeciesofgreatestconcernisreedcanarygrass;atallgrassthatformsdensestandsandcanexcludenativeplantsandwildlife.Oxeyedaisies,frequentlyplantedfortheirshowyflowers,arealsospreadingquickly.

Helpslowthissilentinvasionbyensuringthatyouandyourgeararefreeofaliens!

ParkCoordinator:WhitneyRapp,NPS

TheshorelineofGlacierBayisapopularplaceforkayakersandforbears.Kayakersuseitforrestbreaksandcamping.Bearsuseitfortravelandforaging.Howcantheybothsharethebeacheswithminimaldisturbancetotheother?

Inrecentyears,twostudieshavebeenunderwayinGlacierBaytotrytopredictwherepeoplearemostlikelytoencounterbearsandtoassessbearhabitatqualityandactivitylevels.Researchersfocusedontwoareasthathavebeenclosedtocampingforover20yearsduetobear-humanconflicts.Inbothareas,bearsroutinelyobtainedfoodfromcampersbecauseofpoorfoodstoragetechniques.In1991,bear-resistantfoodcontainersbecamemandatoryandthenumbersofbear-humanconflictsdramaticallydecreasedthroughoutthebay.

Usingavarietyoftechniques,researchersfoundqualityhabitatandhighbearactivitylevelsintheSandyCoveclosurearea,andfoundtheoppositeintheupperwestarmclosurearea.Basedontheseresults,SandyCovewillremainclosedtocampingandtheupperwestarmclosurewillbeopenedtocamping.

Thedatahelpedbiologistsunderstandhowbearsusethesesites,andprovidedparkmanagerswithrecommendationsonhowtoreducebear-humanconflictsandminimizedisplacementofbearsfromkeyhabitats.Parkmanagerscanthenmoreeffectivelymanagebackcountryareasforbothpeopleandbears.ParkLiaison:TaniaLewis,NPS

Science

1�

The Acoustic World of WhalesBesidesthewhooshofawhale’s“blow”asitexhalesorthesharpwhapofaflipperslap,humpbackwhalesmayseemlikesilentcreatureslivinginasilentworld.Yet,theyarevocalanimalsthatmakeavarietyofsounds,fromeeriemoansandgruntstoelaboratesongs.Whalesandothermarinemammalsrelyonsoundcuesformanythings:navigation,findingfood,detectingpredators,andsocializing.Theylivesurroundedbynaturalsoundssuchasthesizzleofrainhittingthesurfaceofthewater.Increasingly,theirunderwaterworldincludeshuman-causedsounds,suchasthewhineofsmallboatmotorsandthethrobofcruiseshipengines.

ThoughresearchershavebeenstudyingwhalepopulationsinGlacierBaysincethe1970s,littlewasknownaboutthebay’sunderwatersoundscapeinwhichthewhaleslive.Now,withtheaidofanunderwaterlisteningdevicecalledahydrophone,parkscientistseavesdropintotheunderwaterworldofwhales,openingupanewdimensiontoconsiderwhenplanningfortheprotectionofthisendangeredspecies.

InMay2000,GlacierBayNationalParkstaffandU.S.NavyacousticiansinstalledthehydrophoneneartheentrancetoGlacierBay.Thehydrophonetransmitsunderwatersoundsthroughacabletoacomputerworkstationatparkheadquarters.Datacollectedaboutunderwatersounds,especiallyhuman-caused

sounds,helpsparkmanagersevaluatevesselmanagementpoliciestoensureminimaldisturbancetothemarinemammalsthatlivehere.

Forexample,sincehumpbackwhalesdonoteatwhentheyareontheirwinterbreedinggrounds,theymakeupforitbyfeedingcontinuouslyonsmallforagefishduringsummersinSoutheastAlaska.Yetresearchsuggeststhatwhalesmaymoveawayfrompreferredfeedingareaswhendisturbedbyvesselsoundsandthatvesselsoundscanpreventthemfromhearingvocalizationsofotherwhales.Thisstudyhasdeter-minedthattheunderwaterworldofGlacierBayisaquieterplacewhenvesselsarerequiredtotravelat10knotsratherthanat20knots.

UnderwaterlisteninghasalreadyyieldedunexpectedrecordingsofmalewhalessingingtheirmatingsongswhilehereinGlacierBay.Untilthattime,itwasbelievedmalesonlysangintheirwinterbreedinggroundsnearHawaii.Morediscoveriesaboutunderwatersoundsmayawaitus.TohearliveunderwatersoundsfromGlacierBayhydrophonevisitoneofthereal-timelistingstationsintheVisitorCenterorVisitorInformationStation.YoucanalsolistentorecordedGlacierBaywhalesoundsattheparkwebsite.

PrincipleInvestigatorandParkLiaison:ChrisGabriele,NPS

Science

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Wildlife Viewing

By Land

MooseAlces alcesThelargestmemberofthedeerfamilyisarecentnewcomertothebay.Thefirstmoosewasspottedhereinthelate1960s.Despitetheirtremendoussize(bullscanweigh

1,600poundsandcows1,300pounds),theycanap-pearanddisappearinthickbrushwithsurprisingstealth.Mooseareusuallysolitary,exceptforcowswithcalvesandduringthefallruttingseason.Cowsgivebirthinthespringtooneortwosmall,reddishcalves,thoughusuallynomorethanonesurvives.Acalfwillstaywithitsmotherfortwoyearsbeforethecowdrivesitoffasshepreparestohavemoreyoung.Theirdietincludeswillowleaves,grasses,herbs,andaquaticvegetation.Onlybullsgrowantlers.

Mountain Goats Oreamnos americanusArguablythemostdapperofGlacierBay’smammals,mountaingoatssportthickwhitecoatsofhollowhairs(thatkeepthemwarminextremeweather),accentedbyblackhornsandhooves.GoatsmayhavebeenamongthefirstlandanimalstorecolonizeGlacierBayaftertheiceretreated,comingoverthemountainsfromLynnCanaltotheeast.Theyareathomeonthesteeprockycliffsinthemid-to-upperbay.Thespecialshapeanddesignoftheirhoovesallowsthemtoleapnimblyfromledgetoledgeinsearchofgrasses,herbs,andlow-growingshrubs.Seenatadistance,theyareoftenmistakenforDallsheep,whicharefoundintheInterior.

PorcupineErethizon dorsatumYoumayfindthispricklymemberofthecommunityhighupinacottonwoodtreenibblingtastytenderleaves.Exceptfortheirfootpadsandnose,porcupinesare

completelycoveredwithyellowishfurandquills,whichareactuallymodifiedhairstippedwithbarbs.Athreatenedporcupinewillturnitsback-endtowardthesourceoftroubletopresentanintimidatingdisplayofquillsthatfirmlysuggeststhewould-bepredatorreconsideritsdinnerplans.Thislargerodent(secondlargestinNorthAmericabehindthebeaver)performsabroadrepertoireofgrunts,whimpers,andscreams.Listenforthemintheevenings“talking”tonooneinparticular.

Red SquirrelTamiasciurus hudsonicusIfyouseealittleredflashzippingupatreetrunkorleapingnimblyamongthebranches,chancesareitisaredsquirrel.Theseagilerodentsspendtheirsummerpreparingforwinterbycollectingandstoringgreenspruceconesintheirundergroundcaches.Likeforestalarms,theychatterunrelentinglywhenathreat—likeyou—isnear.Theyareacomedytourdeforcewhentheyharvestdandelionseedheadsorgooutonalimbforasavorygreenaldercone,anditisworthyourtimetostopandenjoy.

Wildlife

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Wildlife Viewing WhentheiceretreatedinGlacierBay,itleftbehindascouredlandscapeofrocksandmud.Intime,plantsreturnedtotheseeminglysterileland.Eventually,animalsreturnedtothelandandwaterswithinthebay.Today,awidevarietyofcreaturescallGlacierBayhomeforatleastpartoftheyear,andthenumbercouldgrowasmorecreaturesfindtheirwaytothisevolvinglandscape.AsyouexploreBartlettCoveorasyoucruiseupthebay,keepyoureyeoutforsomeofthesemorefrequentlyseenmembersofthecommunity.

By Sea

Steller Sea LionEumetopias jubatusLikeallmembersoftheearedsealfamilyOtariidae,Stellersealionscansupportthem-selvesontheirflipperswhileashore,andtheirrearflipperspivot,allowingthemtogetaroundwithsurprisingspeed.

Inthewatertheybecomefluid,executingaseeminglyendlessseriesofunderwaterflips,turns,androlls.Maturemalescanweighalmost2,000pounds,butfemalesaverageonly600pounds.Duringmatingseason,largebullscompeteatestablishedrookerysitesonGlacierBay’soutercoasttocollectharemsoffemales.Unsuccessfulandimmaturemalesoftencongregateathaul-outareaslikeSouthMarbleIsland.Thoughthenumberofsealionsisgrowinginthebay,thepopulationinWesternAlaskahasdecreasedby80percentsincethelate-1970sleadingtothatportionofthepopulation’scurrentlistingasendangered.

Harbor Seal Phoca vitulina richardsiHarborsealshaveadappledgraycoatthatcanbehighlyvariablebetweenindividuals.Athicklayeroffatallowsthemtokeepwarminotherwisechillingconditions.Unlikethesealion,harborsealshavenoexternalearflapandwhenoutofthewater,cannotsupportthemselvesontheirflippers.Onicefloes,theyresembleplumpsausagesthatmovearoundbyscootingontheiramplebellies.Inthewater,theydisplayadmirablegraceastheyhuntforfish.About1,700sealsconvergeonJohnsHopkinsInleteachsummerforpuppingandmating.On-goingresearchintheparkindicatesthatthepopulationintheinlethasdeclined50percentinthepastdecade.

Harbor Porpoise Phocoena phocoenaAtfivefeetlongandabout120pounds,harborporpoisearethesmallestcetaceansinAlaskawa-ters.Oftenseeningroupsoftwototenthroughoutthebay,theyannounce

themselvesbyofferingabriefglimpseoftheirsmalltriangulardorsalfincuttingslowlythroughthewater’ssurfacewhentheycomeuptocatchabreath.Harborporpoisearegenerallydarkgraywithaslight-lypointedface.Theydonotridebowwakes,liketheirrelativetheDall’sporpoise,whicharelarger(6.4feetand300pounds)andresemblesmallorcaintheirblackandwhitecoloration.ThoughDall’sporpoisecanbeseeninthebay,theyaremoreoftenneartheentranceandinIcyStrait.

Sea OtterEnhydra lutrisTheseaotterpopulationinthebayhasgrownfromzerotoover1,200inthelastdecade.Voraciouseatersofthingslikecrabsandclams,theyexertastronginflu-enceontheirenvironmentandscientistsanticipatedramaticchangeswilltakeplaceintheunderwaterworldofGlacierBay.Seaot-tersperformmanyoftheirdailytaskssuchaseating,bathing,andsleepingwhilefloatingontheirbacks.Lackingathicklayerofblubber,ottersinsteadhavethedensestfurofanymammalwithuptoonemillionhairspersquareinch.Generallydarkbrown,theirfacesgetwhiterastheyage.

Wildlife

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Science in the ParkYouarepicnickingaloneonanidyllicbeachwhenaboatroarsupoutofnowhere.Itstopsjustoffshorefromyou.Itswakewashesthebeach,takingawayhalfyourlunch.Peopleontheboatlaughandtalkloudly.Theyclicktheirtonguestogetyourattention.Cameraflashesexplode.Youdropyoureggsaladanddashoffintotheunderbrush,anythingtogetaway.

You’vejustexperiencedwhathappenstowildlifewhenthoughtlesslyapproachedbyhumans.Theeffectscanbedevastating.Stellersealionstumbleoveroneanotherastheystampedefromhaul-outstogetintothewater,riskinginjuryandexpendingvaluableenergy.Breedingbirdsflushedfromnestsleaveeggsvulnerabletocoolertemperaturesandpredators.Femaleharborsealslosetheirnewbornpupsamongtheicefloeswhentheybecomeseparatedbeforetheirmaternalbondhasbeenestablished.

Toreducedisturbancetowildlifeandprotectsensitiveareas,theparkhasregulationsthatdefinetheminimumdistanceyoumustkeepfromanimalsinGlacierBay.Somecriticalhabitatsareclosedtohumansandvesselsforallorpartoftheyeartoallowanimalstogoabouttheirbusiness.

Duringyourvisit,youcanhelptoprotectwildlifebydoingthefollowing:

•Knowandobserveallminimumdistancesandclosures.SeeBoatingGuide,page24.•Whenviewingwildlife,approachanddepartslowlyandcautiously,whichallowstheanimaltoadjusttoyourpresence.•Usebinocularsoracamerawithatelephotolenssoyoucanviewfromafar.•Avoidsuddenmovementsorloudnoises,whichmaystartleanimals.•Don’tapproachlargeraftsofbirds.Marinebirdstendtogatherinlargegroupsforprotectionduringperiodswhentheyaremoltingandflightless.

Rememberthatevenifyoumaintainalegaldistance,iftheanimalisreactingtoyourpresenceinanywayyouaretooclose.Moveawayandiftheanimalcontinuestoreact,youshouldleavethearea.

AsyouadmireGlacierBay’swildlife,keepinmindthateverydaytheystruggletofindwhattheyneedtoeat,reproduce,protecttheiryoung,andprepareforwinterastheyavoidbecomingfoodforothers.Indeed,lifeisnopicnicforthewildlifeofGlacierBay.

Wildlife

1�Bears

BearsGlacierBayNationalParkishometobrown(grizzly)bears,Ursusarctos,andblackbears,Ursusamericanus.Blackbearsarefoundprimarilyintheforestedregionsnearthemouthofthebay,includingBartlettCove,whilebrownbearslivemainlyinthemoreopenregionsclosertotheglaciers.

Tellingthedifferencebetweenthetwospeciescanbetricky.Simplylookingatcolordoesn’thelp.Blackbearscanbeblack,brown,blonde,evenblue-gray—asisthecaseoftherarecolorphasefoundinSoutheastAlaskacalledthe“glacierbear.”Brownbearscanbeanyshadefromhoneyblondetoblack.Afewkeyphysicalchar-acteristicscanhelpclarifywhichtypeofbearyouhavespotted:

Black Bears•Straightfacialprofile•Noshoulderhump•Prominentears•Short,curvedclaws•3feetattheshoulder•125toover300pounds

Brown Bears (also called “grizzlies”)•“Dish-shaped”facialprofile•Prominentshoulderhump•Long,straightclaws•3.5feetattheshoulder/upto9feetwhenstandingonhindlegs•Average500to1000pounds

Fishing in Bear Country•Ifabearapproacheswhileyouhaveafishontheline,cuttheline

•Cleanfishintheriverdiscardingremainsinthemid-channelcurrent.

•Keepyourcatchonyouatalltimesinabackpacktoallowforquickretreatfromapproachingbears.

•Neveryieldyourcatchorotherfooditems.

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BearsBe a Smart CamperBothcampersandbearsfrequentthebeachesofGlacierBay.Bearsonlyhavesixtoeightmonthstoacquirethecaloriesandfatreservesneededfortheentireyear,andtheshorelineisessentialforfoodandtravel.Thefollowingguidelineswillminimizeyourdisruptionofbearsandhelpkeepthemwild.

Cooking and storing food•Cookandeatintheintertidalzoneatleast100yardsfromyourtentandfoodstoragearea.•Washcookinggearinmarinewaters.•Bepreparedtoquicklystowallfoodshouldabearsuddenlyapproach.•Keepallfood,trash,andotherscenteditemsinabear-resistantfoodcontainer(BRFC).•Atnight,storeBRFCsandcleancookinggearinbrushorbehindrocksawayfromanimaltrails100yardsfromcamp,notinyourboat.

Choosing a campsite•Avoidareaswithbearsignincludinganabundanceofscat,animaltrails,andchewedorclawedtrees.•Avoidactivesalmonstreams.•Pullyourkayakandpitchyourtentclearofthebeach.•Selectasitethatwouldallowbearsroomtopassathightide.

Control your gear•Keepgeartogether.Themorespreadoutyourgearisthemoredifficultitistodefend.•Tominimizepotentialbeardamagetogear,considerbreakingdownyourcampsitedaily.

Beawareofwhatgoesonaroundyourcampsite.

Be Bear SavvyWhilewalking,hikingorcampinginGlacierBay,youmayencounterabear.Thevastmajorityoftheseencountersdonotresultinhumaninjuryorpropertydamage.Youcanhelppreventinjurytoyourselfortothebearbytakingafewbasicprecautions.•Bealert.•Makenoise,especiallyinwindornearrushingwater.•Chooseroutesthatoffergoodvisibility.•Travelingroupsoftwoormore.•Keepyourpersonalitemsandfoodwithinreach.•Donotpursueorapproachbearsforphotographs.•Avoidstreamswithspawningfish.

Bears

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Whenencounteringhumans,mostbearswillrunaway,approachcuriously,appeartoignorethesituationoractdefensively.Bystayingalert,calm,andtailoringyourreactiontothebear’sbehaviorandspecies,youincreasetheoddsofapositiveoutcomeforbothyouandthebear.

Close Encounters

Mayormaynotbeawareofyou

Movestowardyou

Becomesfocusedonyou

Charges

Ifabearmakescontact

Whatisyouractivityanddegreeofmobility?

Youarehikingorkayaking(mobile):•Changeyourcoursetoavoidbear.•Monitorbear’smovement.•Ifbearisclose,talkcalmlytoavoidsurprisingit.

Youarecampingoreating(notmobile):•Keepallgearunderdirectcontrol.•Grouptogetherwithoutblockingbear’sroute.•Talkcalmlytomakebearawareofyou.•Standyourground.

•Monitorbear’smovement.•Standyourgroundandtalkcalmly.•Allowbeartopasspeacefully.

•Staytogetherandstandyourground.•Beassertiveandelevateyourdefense:clapyourhands,waveyourarms,usenoisemakers,suchasanairhornorbangingpotstogether.

•Continuetostandyourground.•Usepeppersprayifyouhaveit.•Fewchargesendincontact.

Fightbackvigorously.Thisislikelyapredatoryattack.

Close EncountersAbearmayreactdefensivelyifsurprisedatclosequartersordefendingcubsorfood.Itsbehaviorsmayincludesnorting,huffing,jawpopping,andcharging.Yoursafetyliesinassuringthebearthatyouarenotathreat.

Standyourground.Talkcalmlytothebear.Attempttomoveawayslowly.Ifthebearbeginstofollowyou,standyourground.Ifthebearcharges,usepeppersprayifyouhaveit.Ifitisabrownbearandmakescontact,playdead.Lieflat,facedownontheground,andplaceyourinterlacedfingersbehindyourhead.Donotmove.Abrownbearwilloftenbackoffonceitfeelsthethreathasbeeneliminated.Blackbearattacksarerareandtendtobepredatory,soneverplaydeadwithablackbear.

Ifyouareinyourtent,fightanybearthatattemptstoenter.

Bears

The Bear: What You Can Do:

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Ifyouintendtocamporboatduringyourvisit,yourfirststopshouldbeattheVisitorInformationStation(VIS).Duringthesummer,afreepermitisrequiredforallboatingandovernightcamping.Orientations,providedwiththepermit,arerequiredannuallyforallcampersandskippers.Theycoverthefollowing:

• Rules and Regulations • Resource Concerns• Safety Issues • Tides

Backcountrycamperscanalsocheckoutbear-resistantfoodcontainers(BRFC)tousefreeofchargeduringtheirvisit.

Wewantyoutomakethemostofyourvisit.Andwewanttomakesureyoudoitsafelyandwithminimumimpact,sootherswhofollowwillbeabletoenjoythewildnessthislandcanoffer.ItisyourresponsibilitytoknowandobeytherulesandregulationsofGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve.Ifyouhaveanyquestions,pleaseaskaranger.

Welcome to Glacier Bay

BoaterandCamperEssentials

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Boater and Camper EssentialsThefollowingisapartiallistingoflawsandregulationsdesignedtohelpyouhaveasafe,enjoyablevisitwhileprotectingparkresources.Forfutherinformationorquestionsonadditionalregulations,pleaseaskaparkranger.

Feeding wildlifeisprohibited.Allfood,fish,garbage,andequipmentusedtocookorstorefoodmustbecachedinasealedmotorvehicle,vessel(excludingkayaks),building,BRFC,designatedtrashreceptacle,ordesignatedfoodcache.

Firearmsareprohibitedfrombeingcarriedorusedinthepark.Theymayonlybepossessediftheyaremadetemporarilyinoperable(brokendown,barrel/boltremoved,andunloaded).Firearmsmaynotbecarriedinakayakorcanoewhileinthepark.

HuntingisonlypermittedonthepreservelandsintheDryBayarea.Allpersons16yearsandolderarerequiredtoholdavalidAlaskaStateHuntingLicense.

Harvestingthefollowingforpersonalconsumptionoruseisallowed:unoccupiedseashells,alledibleberriesandfruits,ediblemushrooms,clamsandmollusks.Stateregulationsapply.NOTE:EatingclamsandmusselsfromGlacierBayisnotrecommendedbecauseofthepresenceofanaturallyoccuringneu-rotoxinthatcausesparalyticshellfishpoisoninginhumansandcanleadtosuddendeath.

PetsareallowedinthedevelopedareasofBartlettCoveandmustbeonaleashatalltimes.PetsareNOTpermittedontheForestLooporBartlettRivertrails.Nopetsareallowedashoreinthebackcountry.

Sport Fishingbyallpersons16yearsandolderrequiresavalidAlaskaStateFishingLicense,availableduringthesummermonthsatGlacierBayLodgeandsomebusinessesinGustavus.


Hypothermia—Killer ColdInthebackcountry,goodraingearisamust.Stayingdrywillhelpyoustaywarmaswetclothingcanwickawaybodyheatandleadtohypothermia—theloweringofthebody’scoretemperature.Hypothermiacankill.Preventionandearlyrecognitionarevitaltosafecamping.Avictimofhypothermiamaynotrealizehisorhercondition,andwilloftendenybeingcoldorneedinghelp.

Early symptoms:Violentshivering,changesinmoodorconsciousness,irritability,cool,paleskin,sloworweakpulse,slow,shallowbreathing.

Advanced symptoms:Absenceofshivering,unconsciousness.

Treatment:Preventfurtherheatloss.Provideshelterfromcold,rain,wetground,andwind.Replacewetclothingwithdrysyntheticclothing.Ac-tivelywarm.Techniquesinclude:

•Wrappatientinspaceblanket,sleepingbag,orgroundcloth.•Wrapwarmwaterbottlesinclothandplaceinthesleepingbagwithpatient.•Provideclosecontactwithanotherwarmperson.•Buildafire.•Feedpatientsugars,carbohydrates,orsweetwarmdrinks.•Keeppatientawake.

DONOT:Givealcohol.Rubormassageaffectedarea.Exposetoexcessiveheat.

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Permits •ArerequiredforprivatemotorvesselsfromJune1throughAugust31. •Arefreeandgoodforsevenconsecutivedays. •Mustbeconfirmed48hoursbeforescheduledentrydateorpermitwillbecancelled.

Toconfirmpermitsortoseeifpermitsareavailable,calltheVisitorInformationStation“KWM20BartlettCove”onmarineband16orphone907-697-2627.Permitapplicationsareavailableonourwebsiteandareaccepted60daysbeforetheintendedentrydateandareavailableatwww.nps.gov/glba.

DocksBartlettCoveDock: •Vesselsmaydockforamaximumof3hoursina24-hourperiod.Afterthat,anchoroutbeyondthe white“nowake”buoys. •Dinghies10feetorlessmaydockinthedesignatedareaforupto24hours. •Donotleavevehiclesorequipmentunattendedondocks. •Useonlyslipsdesignatedforyouruse.Seedockbulletinboard.

FuelDock: •DonotleavevesselsunattendedattheFuelDock. •Forhours,callGlacierBayLodgeonmarineband16orphone907-697-4000. •Accesstoshoreviathefueldockisnotpermitted.

Anchorages •Anchoragesdonotcontainmoorings. •Anchorinwaterdeepenoughtoremainafloatatlowtide. •Safetydependsonice,wind,andtideconditions. •PleasedonotraftoranchornexttotheBlueMouseCoveRangerRaft.

*Boatsattheseanchoragesmaynotrungeneratorsoranyothernon-propulsive enginesbetween10p.m.and6a.m.exceptwhenusingawindlass.

AdamsInletBeardsleeEntranceBergBayBlueMouseCove*GeikieInlet

GooseCoveJohnsonCoveNorthFingersNorthSandyCove*SebreeCove

SouthFingersSouthSandyCoveReidInlet*RussellIslandTidalInlet


�� BoaterandCamperEssentials

HazardsClosures:Duetoanimalactivityorresourceprotection,certainareasareofflimitstoentryandlandingsforallorpartoftheyear.Insummer,someareasareofflim-itstomotorizedvessels—includingsailingvesselswithauxiliarymotorizedpropulsion,evenifnotinuse.Knowandobeyallclosures.SeeBoatingGuide,page24.

CruiseShips:Nomorethan2cruiseshipsarepermit-tedintheparkperday.Theselargevesselscannotturnquicklyandmaytakemilestostop.Donotapproachthemwhentheyarestationaryinfrontoftheglaciers.Donotgetintheirpathanddonotassumetheyseeyou.Watchforlargewakes,thewavesofwhichcanreachthebeachover10minutesaftertheshiphaspassed.

Currents&Winds:Currentsof6to8knotsarenotuncommon.Travelingwiththetides,ratherthanagainstthem,canhelpyourideorpaddleeasierandquicker.

Caution:Theforcesoftides,currents,andwindcancombineincertainplacestocreatedangerousconditions.UsecautioninSitakadayNarrows,BeardsleeEntrance,McBrideEntrance,andthenorthshoreofAdamsInlet.Plancrossingsofwidechannelscarefully.Bettertochangeyourrouteorwaitforconditionstosubsidethantoriskflippingyourboat.

Ice:Glacierscancalvefromaboveandbelowthewaterline.Underwatertonguesoficecanbreakoffandshoottothesurface.Wedonotrecommendapproachingtidewaterglacierscloserthan1/4mile.

Tides:Secureboatsandgearwellabovehightideline.

Weather:Mid-MaythroughSeptember,weatherforecastsandsatelliteimagesareposteddailyattheVISbulletinboard.Rangersbroadcastthemarineforecastandotherimportantnoticesovermarineband16atapproximately8:45a.m.and5:45p.m.daily.

EmergencyCallrangers“KWM20BartlettCove”onmarineband16.NOTE:radiocoverageinthebayisspottyandcellphonecoverageisnon-existent.

Ifyouhavenoradio,wavealargebrightlycoloreditemtowardapassingboat.Tiethisitemtoastick,oar,orkayakpaddleforgreatervisibility.

ReportallemergenciestotheVisitorInformationStationortotheBlueMouseCoveRangerStation.

Maps and ChartsTopographicMaps:TrailsIllustratedMapbyNationalGeographic1:250,000USGSQuadrangles1:63,360

NauticalCharts:17300StephensPassagetoCrossSound17318GlacierBay17302IcyStraitandCrossSound17301CapeSpencertoIcyPoint16762LituyaBay

Toordermapsandchartscontact:AlaskaNaturalHistoryAssociationP.O.Box140Gustavus,[email protected]

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Boating Guide


�� BoaterandCamperEssentials

Whale Watching in Whale WatersTominimizedisturbancetoendangeredhumpbackwhales,GlacierBayNationalParkandPreservehasdevelopedsomeofthemostprotectiveboatingrulesvisitorswillfindanywhere.Becausethepark’smissionistoprotectandpreservethesemagnificentcreatures,wemaintainstrictoperatingandspeedrestrictionsincriticalwhalehabitat.

Rules for All of Glacier BayAllvessels,includingkayaks,mustNOT:

•Operatewithin1/4nauticalmileofahumpbackwhale.•Pursueahumpbackwhalebyalteringcourseorspeedinamannerthatresultsinretainingavesselatadistancelessthana1/2nauticalmilefromahumpbackwhale.

What do you do if a whale suddenly appears in front of you? If your vessel is accidentally positioned within a 1/4 nautical mile of a humpback whale, immediately slow your vessel to ten knots or less. Don’t shift into reverse unless impact is likely. Then, carefully direct or maintain your course away from the whale until at least 1/4 nautical mile separation exists.

What Are Whale Waters?ThesearespecialareasinGlacierBaythatrequireadditionalspeedandoperatingrestrictions.Thesecriticalar-easchangedependingoncurrentwhaleactivityinthebay.SeeBoatingGuideonpage24forareasanddatesthatregulationsareineffectandcheckattheVISforadditionaltemporaryrestrictionsbeforesettingout.

Rules for Whale WatersMotorizedvesselsover18feetinlengthMUST:

•Maintainadistanceofatleastonemilefromshore.Innarrowerareas,navigateamid-channelcourse(unlessfishingoroperatingsolelyundersail).•Approachorlandonshoreperpendicularly,takingthemostdirectlinetoshore.•Operatewithinspeedrestrictions.CheckattheVISforcurrentstatus.

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Camping Information

In Bartlett CoveAfree,walk-intentcampgroundislocatedatBartlettCove.YoumustregisterforasiteattheVisitorInformationStation(VIS).WheelbarrowsareavailabletohelphaulgearbetweentheVIS,dock,andcampground.Pleaseobservethefollowing:•Storeallfood,trash,andscenteditemsinthecachesprovidedinthecampground.•Cook,prepare,andeatfoodonlyintheintertidalzonenexttothecampground.•DisposeofwasteintoappropriatebinsneartheVIS.•Firesarepermittedonlyinthedesignatedcampgroundbeachfirering.

In the BackcountryClosureAreas•Certainpartsofthebayareclosedtocamperseitherpermanentlyortemporarilyduetoanimalactivityandresourceprotection.AskVISrangersforclosureupdates.Youareresponsibleforknowingandobeyingtheseclosures.SeeBoatingGuide,page24.

CampsiteSelection•Chooseasitethatshowsfewsignsofwildlifeusage.•Avoidcampingnearotherparties.•Donotcampwithin100feetofastreamorlake.•Pitchyourtentondurablesurfaces.•Trytokeepyourcampandactivitiesasinconspicuousaspossible.•Leaveyourcampsiteasyoufoundit.

FoodStorage•Cookandeatintheintertidalzoneatleast100yardsfromyourtent.•Donotuseyourbear-resistantfoodcontainer(BRFC)asacookingplatform.•Atnight,storeallBRFCsandcleancookinggearinbrushorbehindrocksawayfromanimaltrails100yardsfromcamp,notinyourboat.•Inforestedareas,useofaBRFCisstillrecommended.Youmay,however,hangyourfood.•Foodmusthangatleast10feetfromtheground,4feethorizontallyfromthetreetrunkandatleast4feetdownfromthesupportingbranch.


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Water•Allwatershouldbeboiled,filtered,ortreatedbeforeconsumption.•Donotusesoapdirectlyinfreshwater.Carrythewater100feetawayfromthesource.

WasteDisposal•Withina1/4mileofshoreline,eitherremovehumanwasteastrashordepositatleast100feetfromanysurfacefreshwatersourceinaholedugatleast6inchesdeep.•Beyond1/4mileofshoreline,deposithumanwasteatleast100feetfromwatersources,campsites,orwithinsightoftrails.•Burnorpackouttoiletpaper.•Packoutalltrash.

Campfires•Campersareencouragedtousecampingstoves.•Campfiresarepermittedbelowthehightidelineormorethan1/4milefromshore.•Burnonlydownanddeadtimber.DONOTburninterglacialwood,whichcomesfromtheexposedremnantsofancientforestsfoundoncertainbeachesaroundthebay.Askarangerfordetails.

Hypothermia•Coldcankill.Knowthesignsofandtreatmentforhypothermia.Seepage21.

4 CheckIn•Ifyoufailtocheckinasscheduled,rangerswillbegintosearchforyoustartingwiththeareasindicatedonyourpermit.


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You’veprobablydoneafairbitoftravelingtogethereandmayhaveahankeringtostretchyourlegs.TherearethreemaintainedtrailsneartheGlacierBayLodge.Allofferrelativelyeasywalking.

Forest Loop Trail Distance: 1 mile loopTime: 30 min.- 1.5 hoursTakesyouthroughboththetemperaterainforestandthebeachenvironmentsofBartlettCove.Beginyourwalkeitherinfrontofthelodge(justofftheparkinglot)orsouthoftheboatrampbetweenthedocks.Thetrailsurfacevariesbetweendirt,gravel,andboardwalk.Twobenchesandviewingplatformsalongthewaybegyoutopauseandtakeinthesightsandsoundsofthespruce/hemlockforest.Rangersleadaguidedwalkalongthistraileveryafternoonat2:30p.m.Meetnearthelodgefrontdesk.

These Boots Were Made for WalkingBeach WalkThelongstretchofshorelinesouthofthedocksallowsforapleasantstroll.Lowtiderevealsamyriadofintertidallife.(Pleasewalkcarefully!)It’saterrificplacetoseeland,shore,andseabirds.FreetidetablesareavailableattheNPSInformationDeskinthelodgeandattheVisitorInformationStationnearthepublic-usedock.

Bartlett River TrailDistance: 4 miles roundtripTime: 4-5 hoursMeandersalonganintertidallagoonandthroughthespruce/hemlockforestbeforeemergingandendingattheBartlettRiverestuary.Watchforcoyotes,moose,bear,andriverotteralongthebeach.Ducks,geese,andotherwaterbirdsconcentrateintheintertidalareaduringmigrationsandmolting.Salmonrunuptheriverinthelatterpartofthesummer,whichat-tractshungryharborseals.

Bartlett Lake TrailDistance: 8 miles roundtripTime: 7-8 hoursBeginwalkingontheBartlettRiverTrail.About3/4ofamiledownthetrailatasignpost,thelaketrailwillbranchoffandbegintoclimbthemoraine.Thistrailislessmaintainedsousecautiontonotlosetheroute.Thechatterofredsquirrelswillaccompanyyouasyouwindyourwayoverandaroundmoss-coveredbouldersandlichen-coveredtreesbeforereachingtheshoresofBartlettLake.Duringthisfull-dayjourney,youmayberichlyrewardedinsolitudeandperhapseventhecallofloons.Bringwater,lunch,andraingear.


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Caution

GlacierBayhasamyriadoftastyberriesthatripenoverthesummer.Butthereisoneberryyoudonotwanttoeat.

Baneberry,Acraea rubra,amemberofthebuttercupfamily,isaptlynamed.“Bane”isderivedfromanAnglo-Saxonwordmeaning“murderous.”Allpartsoftheplantaretoxic.ItiscommonaroundBartlettCoveontheedgesofforests,alongstreambanks,androadsides.

Thestalkgrowsfromtwotofourfeethigh.Itsthin,heavilyveinedleaveshavedeeplytoothededges.Inthespring,itproducesaclusterofsmallwhiteflowersabovetheleaves.InJulyandAugust,hardshinyberriesappear.Thesecanbeeithercandy-applered(mostcommon)orwhite.

Matureberrieshaveadarkspot,whichhasearnedthemthenicknameof“doll’seyes.”Butthereisnothingplayfulaboutthisplant.Ingestingoneberrycancausenumbnessinthemouthandtongue.Thepoisoninthreeberriesisenoughtokillachild.Sixberrieswilleffectivelyshutdowntherespiratorysysteminadults.

Thebestruletofollowifyouaresamplingwildplants:ifyouaren’tsurewhatitisit,don’teatit.

Nomatterwhereyouwalk,alwaysletsomeoneknowwhereyouaregoingandwhattimeyouexpecttobeback.

A Slip of the FootDuetotheamountofmoisturehereinGlacierBay,walkingcanbetricky.Wetdecks,woodenwalkways,logs,rocks,andtreerootscanbeveryslipperyandcreatetrippinghazards.Muddypathwayscanbeslick.Tominimizerisk,wearsturdyshoeswithgoodtractionandusehandrailswhereveravailable.Watchwhereyouaresteppingandtakeyourtime!

Moose MustsIfyouencounteramoose,usecaution:

•Increasethedistancebetweenyouandthemoose.•Getbehindatree.•Changeyourroute.

Toavoidcloseencounters,makenoisewhileyouhike.

Baneberry—Deadly Temptations


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FormoreinformationonGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve’swildlife,geology,andhistorylooktotheAlaskaNaturalHistoryAssociation.AstheprincipalnonprofiteducationalpartnerofGlacierBay,AlaskaNaturalHistoryoperateseducationalbookstoreswithanextensivecollectionofmaterialsonthenaturalandculturalheritageofGlacierBay.Yourpurchasessupporteducationalprogramsofferedbyparkrangers,volun-teerprograms,thisvisitorguide,andotherservices.

AlaskaNaturalHistorypartnerswithmorethan30publiclandsacrossAlaskatooperateinformationalbookstoresandconnectpeopletoAlaska’srichnatu-ralandculturalheritage.MembersreceivediscountsonbookstorepurchasesandthroughAlaskaNaturalHistory’swebsiteatwww.alaskanha.org

AlaskaNaturalHistoryAssociation750WestSecondAvenue,Suite100

Anchorage,AK99501907-274-8440ortoll-freeat866-AKPARKS

www.alaskanha.org

The Fairweather Visitor Guide isproducedwithgeneroussponsorshipsupportfrom

Park PartnersPlanning Your TripTofindthesepublicationsandmore,visittheAssociationBookstoreintheVisitorCenterororderdirectlyfromtheGlacierBaybranchbycalling907-697-2635ore-mail:[email protected].

Frozen in MotionbyKathrynHocker

Findoutwhyiceisblue,howglaciersgallop,andwhichtoolsscientistsusetouncoverancientcluesfromtheiceinthisnewlookatAlaska’sdynamicglaciers.

$8.95

Glacier Bay National Park AlaskabyMarkKelley&SherrySimpson

Colorphotographsandessaystellthefascinatingstoryofthepark,itswildlifeandplants.$20.00

Glacier Bay: Beneath the ReflectionsbytheNationalParkService

ExplorethestrangeandintriguingunderwaterworldofGlacierBayinthisaward-winningfilm.AsaDVDbonus,enjoythepark’sclassicfilmForeverWild.DVD27minutes

$14.95

Glacier BayTrailsIllustratedTopoMapbyNationalGeographic

Waterproof

$10.00

Alsoavailableon-lineatwww.alaskanha.org

TripPlanning

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Become a Junior RangerIfyouarebetweentheagesof6and12,youmaywanttobecomeaJuniorRangerduringyourparkvisit.StopbytheVisitorCenteronthesecondfloorofthelodgetopickupaJuniorRangerActivityBook.Whenyouhavefinishedtheactivities,bringyourbooklettoarangerandyouwillbeawardedaspecialbadgethatmakesyouaGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserveJuniorRanger!

Hereareafewactivitiestogetyoustarted.Ifyouneedhelpwithanyoftheseactivities,pleaseaskaranger.Goodluckandhavefun!

Who am I?[ Ibeginandendmylifeinariver,butspendthemajorityofmytimeintheocean.[ Ieatsmallfishandbugs.[ Someofmynicknamesinclude:humpy,red,silver,king,anddog.

WhoamI?_____________________________________

[ Idrinkboththenectarofflowersandblood.[ Ilikestagnantpoolsofwaterbest.[ Therearemoreofmeinthearcticthananywhereelseintheworld.[ WhenIbiteyou,mysalivamakesyouitch.

WhoamI?_____________________________________

[ Iamasmallmemberofthegullfamily.[ Mywingtipslookliketheyaredippedinblackink.[ Iliketofishnearwhereglacierscalveandmeltwaterstreamsmeetthesea.[ InGlacierBay,InestinlargecoloniesoncliffsneartheMargerieGlacier.

WhoamI?_____________________________________

1)

2)

3)

1.Salmon2.Mosquito3.Kittiwake

Answers:WhoamI?

Glacier Bay Word Scramble AllofthethingsbelowcanbefoundinGlacierBay.Howmanycanyoufind?Thewordsmaybehorizontal,vertical,diagonalorbackward.Goodluck!MOOSE SPRUCEGLACIER

BEAR HUMPBACKEAGLE

SEALHALIBUT

K C A B P M U H S E A L R O T O A P R A A O L S T O R C T S R T B E A U I E A R H G L A C I E R A E L G A E B I T U B I L A H N

Jr.RangerActivities

Emergency Inside the Park:NationalParkServiceBartlettCove907-697-2651 (24-hour)KWM20BartlettCoveonmarineband16

Emergency Outside the Park:GustavusEmergencyResponseDial911

Other Medical Assistance:GustavusCommunityClinic42DollyVardenLane,Gustavus907-697-3008

Youareinanisolatedarea.TheclosesthospitalortraumafacilityisinJuneau,30minutesbyair.Weatherconditionsmaydelaymedicalevacuationsorotheremergencytransport,sometimesfordays.Tohelpensureyouhaveasafevisit,usecaution.

•Respectboundaries,especiallyaroundconstructionzones.•Watchfortrafficondocks,roadways,andinparkinglots.•ReportanyhazardoussituationstotheVisitorInformationStation.•Evenforshortexcursions,alwaysletsomeoneknowwhereyouaregoingandwhattimeyouplantobeback,thensticktoyourplan.

Emergency and Medical Assistance

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