volume 12, issue 10 october 2010 the corsairipms-phoenix.org/newsletter/2010/corsair_2010_10.pdf ·...

September „10 Meeting Pictures .......... 2-4

Mike Mackowski‟s “View” .........................5

Low Cost Spray Booth by Steve Keck .....6

In Memory of Fess Fessenden .................9

New Release from Space in Miniature ...10

Tool Tutorial by Brian Baker ..................11

Upcoming Events ....................................15

Aircraft Detection Before Radar II ..........15

Club Officers ............................................16

Support Your Local Hobby Shop! ..........16

THE CORSAIR The Monthly Newsletter of the Craig Hewitt Chapter

VOLUME 12, ISSUE 10 OCTOBER 2010

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PRESIDENTS MESSAGE

As I sit writing this, it‟s 95° at 2:30 in the afternoon.

Seems like it‟s been forever since that happened.

Maybe the break in the heat has finally arrived.

This will be a fairly short message (from me?

Really? Being brief? „Who are you and what have you

done with Steve?‟), but I want to actually spend some

time in the old model cave for once.

I did want to mention a kit I‟ve been working on

lately. I was asked to build one of the Tamiya 1/32

Spitfires (yeah, I know, see the quote from the second

paragraph) and the engineering on that thing is, quite

simply, amazing. And it comes with virtually

everything you‟ll need to build it except adhesive and

paint. I have never built a model that has that much

detail that simply falls together. I honestly believe this

model could be built without ever resorting to filler of

any kind. And if old ham-fisted me can do it, imagine

what it could look like in the hands of a good modeler.

We have our Modelzona show coming up next

month. Don‟t forget to contact Wendell Rogers to

volunteer your assistance. I know he will appreciate it

greatly.

The 2010 IPMS National Convention crew finally have time to relax after a job very well done..

A short update on the two things I requested help

with last month. Jim Hough has agreed to become our

photographer to take pictures at our meetings. I think

Ethan Dunsford will continue to be our „roving

reporter,‟ too. The second thing is our Christmas get-

together. We do have a date and place reserved and

Mike Ronnau has graciously agreed to work on the

menu again. We do still need someone to arrange any

program or entertainment we will have. Please see me

if you‟re interested.

This month‟s contest is „Scratchbuilding,‟ which

includes any model that involves any scratchbuilding.

Our program will be our annual discussion of „What

Judges Look For‟ to prepare for our upcoming

Modelzona show and contest. I thought we‟d do it a bit

earlier this year to give us all time to go home and look

at our entries in light of the discussion.

See you on Tuesday.

Steve Collins President - Craig Hewitt Chapter

Keith Pieper’s nicely weathered M-48 Patton was built from the 1/35 Tamiya kit.

THE CORSAIR PAGE 2 OCTOBER 2010

September 2010 Meeting We had several new people show up for the

September meeting. We appreciate them coming to the

meeting and hope that they become “regulars”.

The contest theme for the July meeting was

“Weathered Hulks”. John Brubaker was voted the

winner with his beautifully weathered 1/35 BMW R-75

motorcycle. Nice job, John.

Mike Ronnau gave a short “Name That Plane”

slideshow. The pictures of the aircraft were taken head-

on, which made some of them difficult to identify.

The IPMS Phoenix members who won awards at the

National Convention brought in their models and

awards for everyone to see. Our club did very well, and

all of the winners should be very proud.

To see more pictures from the meeting, visit the

Gallery on our website at www.ipms-phoenix.org.

Kevin “Weathered Hulk” Wenker’s awesome 1/350 USS Enterprise was built from the Blue Water Navy kit.

John Brubaker’s 1/35 Lion Roar BMW R-75 motorcycle.

Dave Weitzel brought in this 1/72 Hasegawa A-4 Skyhawk.

Mike Mackowski brought in his recently completed 1/72 Special Hobby D-558-1 Skystreak.


Newcomer Mike Gordon brought in this nicely done 21st Century Bf-109F.

Ethan Dunsford used the 1/35 Tamiya kit to create this M1A1 “Iraqi” Abrams.

Jordan Ross did his usual masterful job on this 1/72 Anigrand Blohm & Voss FG.227.

An aircraft you don’t see modeled often is the IAR-80. This one was built by Brian Baker from the 1/72 A-

Model kit.

Jim Pearsall brought in this 1/72 A-Model deHavilland Vampire Mk. 1. There is probably a review of this

model on the IPMS/USA website.

More September pictures...

Keenan Chittester used the Lone Star conversion to make this 1/72 F7F Tigercat firebomber.


Some of the Nationals winners

Kevin Wenker’s Caproni CA.3.

Gary Thomas’ 1/72 XB-30.

Mike Ronnau’s 1/72 X-Wing.

Dale Mickley’s 1/25 Camaro.

Jim Stute’s 1/72 “Mephisto” World War I tank.

Steve Collins’ 1/72 Kfir C-2.

John Brubaker’s Orc Scout.


Join the IPMS/USA!

$25 annual membership includes a one year subscription to the IPMS Journal. Visit www.ipmsusa.org to

download a membership form. Or you can write to:

IPMS/USA National Office

P.O. Box 2475

N. Canton, OH 44720-0475

Membership also gives you access to the online Discussion Forum, where you can exchange ideas and

information with other members of IPMS.

forward guns on each side of

the nose. Fortunately I found a

decent photo of that particular

plane, 42-97271 “Boss Lady”, so I

should be able to sort it all out. Just

doing the research has been

interesting.

I‟ve started with the 1/72nd scale

Academy kit and I also have an old

Minicraft Hasegawa B-17F. The Minicraft

kit is better in some respects, like the small inlets on

the wing leading edges. It seems to have more details

in the tires. Of course it is the wrong variant, but it

does have the older tail gunner windows, so my razor

went to work to graft that onto the Academy kit

(which has the “Cheyenne” turret as a full clear part

at a suspiciously convenient panel line). So that will

be an easy mod.

Otherwise I‟m trying to keep this mostly out of

the box. Did I mention I scratchbuilt two GB-1 glide

bombs? Okay, that‟s not out of the box. But I added

nothing to the interior, as you can‟t see much. The

bomb bays will be closed but I need to add some

external racks for the grapefruit bombs. Then of

course I‟ll need to make a bunch of custom decals…

Fun fun fun in the Fall!

The View from Space City

Commentary on the Hobby by Mike Mackowski

Back to the Bench

The nice thing about Fall

is the weather cools off and

there is football. But because we

live in Arizona, we don‟t have Fall

yet. But there still is football. And

a warm Saturday can be gainfully

spent in one‟s hobby room with a TV

featuring some college football and a

workbench with a model kit. I‟ve been

doing a fair amount of that lately.

My latest project is to build one of the planes that

my father-in-law, Carl Phillips, flew in during World

War II. You may recall he came to one of our

meetings a year or so ago to share his stories as a

bombardier on B-17s. I found a website from the

group he flew with, the 384th Bomb Group, and

found enough information to identify some of the

aircraft he crewed. I‟ve picked the one he flew the

“grapefruit bomb” mission which targeted glide

bombs at Cologne on May 28, 1944. The glide

bombs didn‟t work very well, so that was the only

time they were used. So it will make a unique version

of a B-17G.

One thing I‟ve noticed in my research is that even

within a “G” model B-17, there are variants. There

are two types of tail turrets, and photos show

variations in the rear side turrets as well as the


In the spring of 2004 I built a temporary booth that was

intended to last until we occupied our new home in the 3rd

or 4th quarter of 2004. Well, its now 2010 and the thing is

worn out. To compound the issue “They” (You know

They. They decide what kind of light bulbs you can buy.)

decided I no longer needed the 12 x 24 inch furnace filters

I was using. Since our guest bedroom is my hobby room I

like the portability of my temporary booth when the room

changes personalities. These factors influenced my plans

for the new booth.

After portability, filter size and availability were my

foremost concerns. The new booth will be similar in shape

and proportions to the first, modified for the new 14 x 25

filter size. Originally, ¼ thick foam core was used. Booth

2.0 will be made from ½ inch thick foam core for strength

and rigidity with only minimal increase in cost and weight.

My first booth was built following the guidelines in

Klaus Raddatz‟s article that can be found here: http://

modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm. Note that I did not

follow his advice on the minimum cubic feet per minute

(CFM) requirements. More on that later.

On page 7 there

is a three-view

drawing with the

measurements I

u s e d . T h e

measure men t s

can be changed

for your purpose

and are only

limited by the

over all size of

the foam core

(20 x 30 inches).

The measurements are as follows:

A: 11 inches Note (i)

B: 19 inches Note (i)

C: 25 1/8inches (Note: I increased this by ¼ inch over the

filter size to allow space for the internal Plexiglas

lighting supports)

D: 20 inches

E: 13 3/8 inches

F: 2 ¾ inches

G: 8 inches

Note (i): A plus B cannot exceed 30 inches

Note (ii): Shelf is spliced together from 2 3/4 scrap.

The original booth was designed to allow the front to

fold down covering a freshly painted model preventing

dust collecting on the wet paint. I never used this feature

and instead used the folded-up front as an anchor point for

more lights. More lights and more lights help me

compensate for my aging eye sight. More lights still, are

planned for the new booth. With that in mind the top of the

new booth will extend beyond the back for attaching

Plexiglas sheets with alligator clips.

The first booth used one 13 CFM fan. I later added a

second similar fan at the opposite end of the duct, at the

window. This arrangement was adequate for airbrushing

but lacking when aerosol cans were used. Two 12

centimeter, 40 CFM, fans will be used in the new design –

one at each end of the duct. Why two? They will be

utilized independently or in tandem as needed.

A word of caution is needed here. The fans used in

both booths are computer cooling fans. Why computer

Build A Low-Cost Paint Spray Booth Article by Steve Keck

Drawings by Bruce Briggs

Material List:

Foam core 20 x 30 x ½ inch $12 (Michaels &

Hobby Lobby after using the 40 & 50 % off

coupons)

Two 12 centimeter fans $38 (Fry‟s Electronics)

3 x dryer duct kits $9 (Lowes)

Duct tape $3 (JoAnn‟s Fabrics)

Pack of four 14 x 25 x1 inch filters (Wal-Mart) $4

This picture illustrates an option for routing

the ducting outside

http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm

http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm


These drawings illustrate the layouts for cutting the foam core.

The proper sequence of assembly of the fans, elbows

and brackets are illustrated in the following photos:

The original booth was assembled using only white

athletic tape. Over time the adhesive dried out so I switched

to duct tape (Red Green would be sooo proud!). I will also

be using Gorilla Glue as I want to avoid water based glues

that may saturate the paper finish on the foam core. NOTE:

the Gorilla glue expands as it is activated requiring the

pieces to be taped together or weighted down.

A last comment: When “They” decide I no longer need

14 x 25 filters and stop their production I will fall back to

using interfacing material from JoAnn‟s taped over the filter

frame.


cooling fans? These

fans have brushless

motors. Brushes cause

sparks. The fans are

mounted in the flow of

the flammable paint and

propellants – an

undesirable place for

sparks. This is where

the legal disclaimer

goes: I do not advocate

you use any particular

type of fan. I‟m just

documenting what I did

so my survivors will

know what not to do

next time.

All ducting and dryer vents are four inch diameter.

Use hard ducts, not flexible, as the corrugation cuts the

airflow significantly. The original booth used segmented

aluminum elbows that presented problems attaching to the

dryer vents. I ran across a dryer duct system at Lowes on

close-out that is shown here. As of late May, 2010, the

Scottsdale Lowes had 24 sets at $3 each on close-out. I

used only the brackets, elbows and gaskets.

I was fortunate to mooch an extra window frame while

the house was under construction. I removed the glass and

replaced it with Plexiglas allowing me to mount a four

inch dryer vent to the outside of the window. A four inch

PVC irrigation pipe sleeve was used to span the double

panes. When not in use a PVC plug fills the hole.

IN MEMORIAM On September 17th, 2010, Elbert "FESS" Fessenden passed away after a long battle with cancer.

He was undergoing treatment at the VA Hospital in Prescott, AZ. Fess was born in Prescott in

1940, and was raised and educated here. He served honorably for 27 years in the US Navy as

an aircraftsman. Upon retirement from active duty, he returned to Prescott and continued to

serve our country as a member of the American Legion and Veterans of Foreign Wars. Fess

joined IPMS-USA in the 1970s (IPMS #5436) and remained continuously active until the end.

He was a dedicated master modeler of aircraft until being impaired by his illness, but

continued to support our Society at both local and national levels. He was a charter member of

our Lt. Ernest A. Love Chapter/IPMS - USA . His optimism and outspoken sense of humor,

along with his encyclopedic knowledge of US Navy aircraft were enjoyed, appreciated, and

respected by all. We miss him, and wish him peace and grace.


Modeling Tools and Equipment by Brian Baker

Introduction

Recently, a pilot friend of mine told me that since he

retired, he was going to get back into modeling. He had

built some models in the past, but since moving, he has to

set up an entirely new work area, and acquire new tools

and equipment. I pondered the issue, and since I have only

been building model airplanes for at least sixty years, I

thought I could pass some information on to him. In fact, I

feel that other modelers could also benefit from this, as we

can all profit from new information.

One of the main principles in my modeling is to try to

stay organized, and have a place for things, and put them

back there from time to time. I did this by building a work-

bench. This is not a custom designed job, but just a “fit it

into the space” affair. I have one room in the house (a bed-

room) devoted to all of my airplane hobbies, which also

include a large aircraft photo collection and a library that

I‟ve collected over the past fifty years. Seeing as how I

don‟t have a bed in there, I took the sliding doors off of the

closet and built a workbench inside it. This is just made of

particle board and an old formica sink cutout, but the old

table saw I have out back has been sufficient for making

workbenches and model display cases, which are another

story. Any space not devoted to working area is either

filled with unbuilt kits, books, periodicals, my computer,

or model display cabinets. Having over 1,000 built-up 1/72

scale models in one small bedroom taxes the imagination, I

know, but so far I have always made space when that new

kit comes out. It‟s like the inside of a submarine.

I‟ll gloss over such issues as airbrush location and the

related problems associated with the fumes. I have a com-

pressor, and also an exhaust fan from an old range-oven

combination that I scrapped years ago, and I am able to use

enamels and lacquers right on the bench, not in the garage,

which at the moment, is more that 100 degrees in the Ari-

zona summer. I have set up shelves for paint, with every-

thing identified and in order, which saves a lot of time

searching for particular colors. I also have containers and

racks on the bench for various tools, so that they are easily

found when needed. I also put them back when I‟m done. I

also have a small pad stuck to a shelf, where I note things I

need when I next visit the hobby shop, such as paint, glue,

etc. Another essential is a powerful flashlight. This is es-

sential when I drop a small part on the floor, and have to

look for it. Even though I have one of those office-chair

plastic floor covers, parts can bounce and go amazing dis-

tances (I think they are self-propelled) so a light is helpful

in locating these items.

The Tools

The obvious things, like sharp Xacto style knives,

drills, files, a razor saw, a hot knife, scissors, and pliers

don‟t need much discussion, except that I buy things like

knife blades when I find them on sale, so I always have

one when I need it. Several sets of tweezers are also

needed, but be sure to get sharp pointed ones, not the blunt

edge type. As far as storing the tools on the workbench, I

have some plastic containers that were originally designed

for tall, thin objects of some kind. They are kind of like

honeycombs, and allow files, Xacto knives, picks, and

other long, thin tools to be stored upright. I have to be

careful because the knife blades stick straight up, but I can

see what tool I‟m getting. I made a similar unit for storing

paintbrushes out of plastic tubing and a piece of flat Plexi-

glas. You could also use some empty 35 mm film contain-

ers superglued to a flat piece of wood or plastic. I use one

of these for storing wooden stirring sticks, pipe cleaners,

and short sanding sticks.

I will list and explain some tools that some readers

may not have thought of. One thing I have always done is

try to think outside of the box. When I‟m in a hardware,

electronics, or sewing supply store with my wife, I look at

stuff displayed on the walls, and say to myself “How could

I use this in modeling?” The result has been a number of

things that have turned out to be useful, including those

small fiber cutting boards sold in fabric stores that are

marked off in square inches, which are very useful when

cutting small parts off of a sprue. When I go to the dentist,

I always ask “do you have any dental tools that you‟re


throwing away”, and this has resulted in some very useful

tools, including dental picks scrapers, and drill bits. Even

small dishes or containers for water for decals or wet sand-

ing, or thinners for airbrush cleaning can be obtained free.

I once picked up some small aluminum throw-away ash-

trays from Taco Bell, and have been using them for years,

since they quit giving them out when they outlawed smok-

ing in restaurants here. I often use superglue or white glue

for attaching small parts, and the most effective way to do

this is to place a small amount of glue in a tiny receptacle

and apply it with a dental pick. An ideal medium for this

was discovered in church communion cups, small clear

plastic cups that are thrown away after use. I just put a

bunch of them in a plastic bag, take them home, wash

them out, and they make ideal glue receptacles when

turned upside down. The bottoms have just enough depres-

sion to hold a few drops, enough glue for most applica-

tions, and they are stable and not easily upset. And I just

discard them when they need replacement.

Even a trip to the dollar store can be useful. I bought a

cheap set of drill bits years ago, and although they would

dull in a minute if used on metal, they have lasted a long

time on plastic. I bought some small clamps that I use

quite often. Even cheap wire cutters work OK on plastic.

Emery boards are also available there, and they are very

useful. Dollar stores often have plastic containers of differ-

ent sizes, and these are very useful for storage. I use them

to store decals, scrap model parts, and extra tools and

equipment. They are easily labeled, and generally airtight.

Over the years, I have accumulated a couple of mag-

netic kitchen knife holders. These are normally mounted to

the wall, and hold half a dozen small knives. I use them for

any kind of metal tool, including files, pliers, and other

tools. They are extremely useful.

Painting And Glue Application Equipment

One thing I have evolved over the years is a method of

holding small parts while painting. I originally bought

some electronic wire clips, those little jagged-toothed alli-

gator clips used to temporarily hold electrical connections

together, and found that if you attach them to a round

toothpick and clamp them on, I had a ready-made clamp

that I could use to attach small parts. Cracker Barrel tooth-

picks are great for this, because they are pointed on one

end and blunt on the other. At Radio Shack, I found some

copper clamps that don‟t have the jagged jaws, but just

two smooth “jaws” that clamp together. This leads to an-

other technique. I always save some old Styrofoam from

packing boxes, and glue a section, maybe six inches

square, on one of the sides of my workbench. When the

part is painted, I just stick the part and clamp into the Sty-

rofoam, and it stays there nicely until dry. I also store the

clamps there. When the Styrofoam wears out, I simply re-

place it with another piece.

We are all familiar with paintbrushes, so I won‟t

elaborate on these, except that the larger craft stores and

artist supply houses sometimes have good sales on these.

Little wooden coffee stirrers are useful for hand-stirring

paint, or for applying putty to fill seams. One thing I ob-

tained from Squadron a couple of years ago is a battery

operated paint stirrer, which operates on the principle of a

cocktail stirrer. It has a small rotary tip that stirs paint

around very nicely without allowing it to splash the paint

around. Be sure to turn it completely off before removing

it from the paint bottle, however, or you‟ll have paint all

over the place. I really don‟t know how I ever got along

without this little gem. I bought some pipe cleaners at a

local craft store, and use these for cleaning out my air-

brush. These have many craft uses now, and are available

in many colors, but color is not essential. They should be

nylon or something besides cotton, and can be cleaned off

by dipping them in thinner and wiping them off on a

Kleenex. I‟ve had less use for the abrasive type of cleaner,

with small bristles, but I still use them occasionally. The

small “eye droppers” that come with eye or nose drops are

also useful in dispensing thinner. I also have a number of

small individual maple syrup bottles taken home from res-

taurants. I use these to keep small quantities of water for

use in decals and wet sanding. It just saves me from get-

ting up and going to the sink every time I need a small

quantity of water.

For glue application, I have several tools. For Tenax

liquid solvent, I use an old drafting pen. This is dipped into

the solution, and moves onto the joint by capillary action.

This also works for superglue accelerators. For superglue

adhesives, I use the pointed end of a dental pick. For white

glue, the dental pick also works best, especially in apply-

ing rigging wires where small quantities of glue are re-

quired.

Drills and Files

I have a set of cheapo drill bits that I use occasionally

to enlarge holes. I also have a number of very small hobby

-type drill bits that fit into some hand-drill holders that I‟ve

accumulated over the years. In addition, I have some den-

tal drill bits, round and other shapes, that fit into some of

the hand drill holders I have. They are very useful at times.

I have several sets of small files, and also some soft sand-

ing sticks of various grades for finishing. I also have a

Dremel tool, but although I bought a sewing machine foot

pedal to vary the speed, I have used it very little in model-

ing, although it has been very useful in working on the real

airplane‟s aluminum skin. I also have a hand drill with a

small pointed tip from a set of dividers. It is great for

marking drill hole locations.


Measuring Tools and Templates

A good set of steel rulers is very useful. I have several,

and also have a couple of sets of dividers, which are actu-

ally drafting compasses with pointed tips on both sides. I

also have a paper 1/72 scale ruler stuck onto one of the

shelf facings on my bench, and this is handy at times.

Tracing templates and erasing shields are also useful. I use

circle template all the time to mark off masking tape cir-

cles for wheel hubs or cowling faces.

Lighting

A model workbench has to be well lighted. I have a

florescent unit mounted above, but also have a moveable

light that can be placed in any position. In addition, I have

a circular florescent magnifying glass unit that also adjusts

to any position. These get in the way at times, but I can

always see what I‟m doing, and the magnifying glass con-

verts 1/72 scale into 1/48 when I really need to see the de-

tail. They make small magnifying glass stands with

clamps, and these are available cheaply in tool supply

houses. I have one, but have never used it. I even have a

desk mounted magnifying glass that I sometimes use when

I‟m working on a model on a folding TV tray in the family

room, but I don‟t do this often.

Cleaning Tools

Obviously, Kleenex and paper towels are essential on

any modeling bench. Other things, such as Q-tips and pipe

cleaners are also useful. My wife recently bought me a

small battery powered hand vacuum, intended for cleaning

computer keyboards. It does, however, suck up the debris

from a model bench, and I have found it to be a welcome

addition. Another useful item is a can of dust remover,

which is expensive but sometimes useful in removing un-

wanted materials from the insides of a model. I use old

toothbrushes for cleaning debris out of panel lines, and

other types of brushes for lighter dusting off.

Safety Equipment

The only safety equipment I have includes a fire extin-

guisher mounted underneath my workbench, a few band-

aids on a shelf, and some paper masks for painting, which

I probably should use more often than I do. I don‟t think

OSHA would like my setup.

Conclusion

These are some of the things I have learned in many

years of modeling. I hope that some of these ideas are use-

ful, and that they will help you to make your modeling

more pleasant and efficient. If anyone else has ideas, feel

free to share them, especially ideas that don‟t cost a lot of

money. Happy modeling!



Upcoming 2010 Monthly Contests

October - "Scratch Building" Best model involving scratch building.

November - “Prototypes and Famous Firsts” Includes Prototypes & first in a series.

December - “Monogram‟s Golden Age” Any Monogram kit from 1945 through 1980.

NOVEMBER 2010

Tuesday 2nd, 7pm - Craig Hewitt Chapter meeting at American Legion Post #1. Contest: Prototypes and

Famous Firsts.

Saturday 6th, 10am - 4pm - ModelZona at the Commemorative Air Force Museum, 2017 N. Greenfield Rd., Mesa, AZ. Open to ALL modelers. For more info visit www.ipms-phoenix.org.

UPCOMING EVENTS

OCTOBER 2010

Tuesday 5th, 7pm - Craig Hewitt Chapter meeting at American Legion Post #1. CONTEST: Scratch Building.

Saturday 9th, 8:30am - 1:30pm - Plastic Model Swap Meet at the Postal Worker’s Social Hall, 3720 W. Green-way Rd., Phoenix. Admission is $3.

Aircraft Detection Before Radar

Part 2


www.airline-hobby.com

Your One Stop Source for

Scale Model Airliner Kits, Decals,

Diecasts and Accessories

Space modeling reference books by Mike Mackowski.

www.spaceinminiature.com

Avalon Books and Hobbies

1510 N. Scottsdale Rd.

Tempe, AZ 85281

(480) 994-2263

RIGHT STUFF,

RIGHT PRICE

www.thehobbydepot.com

216 W. Southern Ave.

Tempe, AZ 85282 (480) 968-1880

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP!

Copper State Models

“The Cutting Edge In Military Details”

Eric R. Hight 3245 E. Hillery Dr.

Phoenix, AZ 85032 (602) 867-8822

1817 E. Baseline Rd.

Gilbert, AZ 85233

(480) 892-0405

Don’t forget to sign up for your HobbyTown Card!

www.gofastest.com/cruzin

2018 N. Arizona Ave., Ste. D118-126

Chandler, AZ 85225 (480) 899-6640

HOBBY BENCH 2 Great Locations!

8058 N. 19th Ave. NW corner of 19th Ave. & Northern

602-995-1755

4240 W. Bell Rd. NE corner of 43rd Ave. & Bell

602-547-1828

Chapter Officers

President ................... Steve Collins ............... [email protected] ..................... (623) 877-4631

Vice President ........... Jim Pearsall ................. [email protected] ............ (623) 583-2308

Secretary ................... Chuck Ludwig ............ [email protected] ..................... (480) 982-0485

Treasurer ................... Keith Pieper ................. [email protected] ....................... (480) 994-2263

Chapter Contact ........ Dick Christ .................. [email protected] .......... (480) 983-7131

Member At Large ..... Sam Bueler .................. [email protected] ......... (480) 612-1257

Webmaster ................ Don Crowe .................. [email protected] .................. (623) 872-6151

Newsletter Editor ...... Keenan Chittester ........ [email protected] ................... (480) 706-8178

The club meets at 7pm on the first Tuesday of each month at the American Legion Post #1 in Phoenix. Check the club website at www.ipms-phoenix.org for more meeting info.

American Legion Post #1 364 N. 7th Ave.

Phoenix, AZ 85003

The post is located South of I-10 just a few blocks North of Van Buren. Look for the huge Ameri-can flag.

volume 12, issue 10 october 2010 the corsairipms-phoenix.org/newsletter/2010/corsair_2010_10.pdf ·...

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