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Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe Effortlessly chic cities, many with charming historic centres, contrast with soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban design. Inspiring food and a full menu of seasons make Northern Europe a premium cruise destination. Stolid northern stereotypes dissolve in the region’s vibrant capitals. Crest-of-the-wave design can be seen in many, backed by outstanding modern architecture, excellent museums and galleries, imaginative solutions for 21st-century urban living, internationally acclaimed restaurants and a night- life that fizzes along despite sometimes-hefty beer prices. A palpable sense of history is present throughout: the Vikings dominated these seas, the Hanseatic trading cartel put port cities on the map in medieval times, while the seismic impact of 20th-century events left deep scars throughout. You’ll rarely come across the word ‘ecotourism’ in northern Europe, but those values have long been an important part of life here. Generally, green, sustainable solutions are a way of living, rather than a gimmick to attract visitors. Scandinavia, in particular, will likely be significantly affected by climate change and big efforts to reduce emissions are being made across the region. Travelling here, you’ll be struck by the excellent levels of environ- mental protection, the sensible ‘why don’t we do that back home’ impact-reducing strategies and the forward thinking so much in evidence. It makes for pleasurably enlightening travel. soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban design Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Donna Wheeler Bergen, Norway (p126) ANDREY KHROBOSTOV/ALAMY © CRUISE PORTS SCANDINAVIA & NORTHERN EUROPE A GUIDE TO PERFECT DAYS ON SHORE ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe - Lonely Planet · St Catherine’s Cloister 215 St Magnus Cathedral 259 St Mary’s Church 248-9 St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral 215 Suomenlinnan

Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern EuropeEffortlessly chic cities, many with charming historic centres, contrast with soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban design. Inspiring food and a full menu of seasons make Northern Europe a premium cruise destination.Stolid northern stereotypes dissolve in the region’s vibrant capitals. Crest-of-the-wave design can be seen in many, backed by outstanding modern architecture, excellent museums and galleries, imaginative solutions for 21st-century urban living, internationally acclaimed restaurants and a night-life that fizzes along despite sometimes-hefty beer prices.

A palpable sense of history is present throughout: the Vikings dominated these seas, the Hanseatic trading cartel put port cities on the map in medieval times, while the seismic impact of 20th-century events left deep scars throughout.

You’ll rarely come across the word ‘ecotourism’ in northern Europe, but those values have long been an important part of life here. Generally, green, sustainable solutions are a way of living, rather than a gimmick to attract visitors. Scandinavia, in particular, will likely be significantly affected by climate change and big efforts to reduce emissions are being made across the region. Travelling here, you’ll be struck by the excellent levels of environ-mental protection, the sensible ‘why don’t we do that back home’ impact-reducing strategies and the forward thinking so much in evidence. It makes for pleasurably enlightening travel.

soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and

cutting-edge urban design

A n d y Sy m i n g to n , A l ex is Ave r b u c k , O l i ve r B e r r y, A b i g a i l B l a s i , Cr is t i a n B o n e t to , M a r c D i D u c a , C a th e r i n e L e

N eve z , H u g h M c N a u g h t a n , B e c k y O h l s e n , L e o n i d Ra gozi n , S i m o n Ri c h m o n d , A n d re a S c h u l te - Pe eve r s , Re gis St L o u is ,

D o n n a W h e e l e rBergen, Norway (p126) ANDREY KHROBOSTOV/ALAMY ©

CRUISE PORTS SCANDINAVIA & NORTHERN

EUROPEA G U I D E T O P E R F E C T D AY S O N S H O R E

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe - Lonely Planet · St Catherine’s Cloister 215 St Magnus Cathedral 259 St Mary’s Church 248-9 St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral 215 Suomenlinnan

2

Contents

Berlin, Germany 34...at a Glance 36

The Berlin Wall �����������38The Reichstag ����������� 42Berlin Nightlife ��������� 44Historical Highlights Walking Tour ������������� 46Sights ............................48Tours ............................. 57Shopping ...................... 57Eating ............................58Drinking & Nightlife ...... 61Entertainment ..............65Where to Stay ...............67

Amsterdam, the Netherlands 68...at a Glance 70

Van Gogh Museum ����72Anne Frank Huis ��������74Exploring the Jordaan Walking Tour ��������������76Sights ............................78Tours .............................83Eating ............................84Drinking & Nightlife ......86

Entertainment ..............88

Copenhagen, Denmark 90...at a Glance 92

Tivoli Gardens ����������� 94Designmuseum Danmark �������������������� 96Cobbles & Cosiness Walking Tour ������������� 98Sights ..........................100Tours ............................101Shopping ....................104Eating .......................... 105Drinking & Nightlife .... 107Entertainment ............109

Oslo, Norway 110...at a Glance 112

History on Bygdøy ��� 114All Along the Water-front Walking Tour ��� 116Sights ...........................118Tours ........................... 122Shopping .................... 122Eating .......................... 123Drinking & Nightlife .... 125

Bergen, Norway 126... at a Glance 128

Bryggen ��������������������130KODE������������������������� 132Exploring the Fjords �����������������134Sights .......................... 136Activities ..................... 139Tours ........................... 139

Shopping .................... 140Eating .......................... 140Drinking & Nightlife .... 142Entertainment ............ 143

Stockholm, Sweden 144...at a Glance 146

Vasamuseet �������������148Old Town Walking Tour ������������150Sights .......................... 152Tours ........................... 156Shopping .................... 157Eating .......................... 157Drinking & Nightlife ....160

Helsinki, Finland 162...at a Glance 164

Suomenlinna ������������166Helsinki’s Art & Design Walking Tour ������������168Sights .......................... 170Tours ............................174Shopping .....................174Eating .......................... 175Drinking & Nightlife .....177Entertainment ............ 178

St Petersburg, Russia 180...at a Glance 182

The Hermitage ���������184Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood �����������190

Plan Your TripTop 12 ........................ 4Need to Know ..........16Hot Spots for... ........18Month by Month ..... 20Get Inspired ............ 23Local Life................. 24Choose Your Cruise...................... 26Sustainable Cruising ..................30Family Time Ashore .................... 32

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Orkney

Shetland

Gotland

Öland

Bornholm

Bay ofBiscay

KOLAPENINSULA

EnglishChannel

NORTHATLANTIC

OCEAN

BalticSea

BarentsSea

NorwegianSea

WhiteSea

GreenlandSea

NorthSea

AUSTRIA

BELARUS

CZECHREPUBLIC

GERMANY

DENMARK

FINLAND

FRANCE

GREENLAND

HUNGARY

IRELAND

ICELAND

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

MOLDOVA

NORWAY

POLAND

ROMANIA

SCOTLAND

SLOVAKIA

SWEDEN

UKRAINE

WALES

RUSSIA

Dniester

L o ire

Tisza

V is tu la

Volga

WARSAW

BRUSSELS

CHIŞINĂU

KYIVLONDON

LUXEMBOURG

BRATISLAVAPARIS

VILNIUS

MINSK

BUDAPEST

MOSCOW

BelfastMalmö

Kristiansand

Brest

Cardiff

Odessa

Rovaniemi

Lyon

Tver

Vaasa

Hamburg

Rennes

Lille

MurmanskTromsø

Smolensk

Zhytomyr

Kaliningrad

Munich

Luleå

Rouen

Pskov

Douglas

Edinburgh

Dresden

Nantes

Kraków

TrondheimPetrozavodsk

Lviv

Iaşi

Manchester

Birmingham

Glasgow

Sundsvall

Tampere

PRAGUE

VIENNA

DUBLIN

SHETLANDISLANDS

(p256)

COPENHAGEN(p90)

BERLIN(p34)

AMSTERDAM(p68)

REYKJAVÍK(p260)

ESTONIA

NETHERLANDS

BELGIUM

ENGLAND

NORTHERNIRELAND

OSLO(p110)

BERGEN(p126) STOCKHOLM

(p144)

HELSINKI(p162) ST PETERSBURG

(p180)

TALLINN(p206)

RĪGA(p222)

GDAŃSK(p238)

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Wilhelmøya

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Page 3: Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe - Lonely Planet · St Catherine’s Cloister 215 St Magnus Cathedral 259 St Mary’s Church 248-9 St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral 215 Suomenlinnan

3

*St Petersburg’s Historic Heart Walking Tour ������������192Sights .......................... 194Tours ........................... 199Shopping ................... 200Eating ......................... 200Drinking & Nightlife ... 203Entertainment ........... 204

Tallinn, Estonia 206...at a Glance 208

Kadriorg �������������������210Tallinn’s Old Town Walking Tour ������������212Sights .......................... 214Activities ..................... 218Tours ........................... 219Shopping .................... 219Eating ......................... 220Drinking & Nightlife ... 220

Rīga, Latvia 222...at a Glance 224

Rīga Central Market ��������������������� 226Alberta Iela ������������� 228Art Nouveau Rīga Walking Tour ����������� 230Sights ..........................232Tours ...........................235Shopping ....................235Eating ..........................235Drinking & Nightlife ....237

Gdańsk, Poland 238...at a Glance 240

European Solidarity Centre ���������������������� 242Długi Targ ���������������� 244Along the Motława Walking Tour ����������� 246Sights ..........................248

Shopping ....................252Eating ..........................252Drinking & Nightlife ....255

Shetland Islands 256

Orkney Islands 258

Reykjavík, Iceland 260...at a Glance 262

National Museum ��� 264Blue Lagoon ������������ 266Golden Circle ���������� 268Sights ..........................270Activities .....................275Shopping ....................277Eating ..........................278Drinking & Nightlife ....282

In FocusScandinavia Today ...... 286History ......................... 288Landscapes ................. 298Wildlife ..........................301Food & Drink ................ 304

Survival GuideDirectory A–Z .............. 308Transport ...................... 312Index ............................. 315

Geirangerfjord (p135), NorwayTRPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Page 4: Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern Europe - Lonely Planet · St Catherine’s Cloister 215 St Magnus Cathedral 259 St Mary’s Church 248-9 St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral 215 Suomenlinnan

314

Behind the Scenes

AcknowledgementsClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Illustrations p188–9 by Javier Zarracina.

This BookThis first edition of Lonely Planet’s Cruise Ports Scandinavia & Northern Europe guidebook was researched and written by Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Abigail Blasi, Cristian Bonetto, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Leonid Ragozin, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis and Don-na Wheeler. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Clifton Wilkinson, Branislava VladisavljevicProduct Editors Kathryn Rowan, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Paul Harding, Victoria Harrison, Anne Mulvaney, Ross Taylor, Kira TverskayaAssisting Book Designers Nicholas Colicchia, Virginia Moreno, Michael WeldonCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Liz Heynes, Alison Ridgway

Send Us Your Feedback

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guar-antee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition, the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and sug-gestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro-duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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A–C INDEX 315

Index

Aaccommodation, see Berlinactivities 20-2, see also

swimmingair travel 312-13Alberta Iela 228-9Alexander Nevsky Monastery

198-9Alþingi 270-1amber 252Amsterdam 6, 68-89, 71, 80-1

drinking & nightlife 86-7entertainment 88food 84-6highlights 72-5itineraries 70legal matters 89planning 70-1safety 89shopping 83-4sights 78-82tourist information 89tours 83transport 89walking tour 76-7, 76-7

animals 301-3, see also birds, polar bears, puffins, whales

Anne Frank Huis 74-5archaeological sites

Jarlshof 257Maeshowe 258-9Ness of Brodgar 259Skara Brae 258

architecture 18, 174, 236art galleries, see museums &

galleries ATMs 310

Aurlandsfjorden 135aurora borealis 300

Bbathrooms 311Begijnhof 82-3Bergen 8, 126-43, 129, 138

activities 139drinking & nightlife 142-3entertainment 143food 140-2highlights 130-5itineraries 128planning 128-9shopping 140sights 136-9tourist information 143tours 139-40transport 143

Bergen International Festival 21Berlin 4-5, 34-67, 36-7

accommodation 67Alexanderplatz 53-4Charlottenburg 56-7, 60-1,

64-5drinking & nightlife 44-5, 61-5entertainment 65food 58-61Friedrichshain 63-4, 63gay & lesbian travellers 62highlights 36-7itineraries 36Kreuzberg 55-6, 60, 62-3, 55Mitte 48-9, 58-9, 61, 50-1planning 36-7Potsdamer Platz 54-5, 61-2,

55Prenzlauer Berg 55, 59-60, 62Scheunenviertel 49-53shopping 57-8sights 48-57Tiergarten 54-5, 61-2

tourist information 65-6tours 57transport 37, 66walking tour 46-7, 46-7

Berlin Wall 38-41, 40-1bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 303, see also puffinsbirdwatching 257, 303Blue Lagoon 266-7boat trips, see also ferries

Amsterdam 83Copenhagen 104Helsinki 174Oslo 122St Petersburg 199Stockholm 156-7

books 23Brandenburger Tor 48Bressay 256-7breweries & microbreweries

Birri 178Brouwerij Troost 87Bryggeriet 142Heineken Experience 78Mikkeller & Friends 109

brown cafes 87Bryggen 130-1 budget 17

Ccable cars 139canals 88, 100castles & fortresses

Akershus Festning 118Lower Town Wall (Tallinn)

214-15Peter & Paul Fortress 195Rosenborg Slot 101Suomenlinna 166-7

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cell phones 311000 Map pages

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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316 INDEX C–H

Changing of the Guard (Copenhagen) 101

Checkpoint Charlie 49children, travel with 32-3churches & cathedrals

Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral 218

Berliner Dom 54Church of the Saviour on the

Spilled Blood 190-1Hallgrímskirkja 271Kaiser-Wilhelm-

Gedächtniskirche 57Oliwa Cathedral 252Rīga Cathedral 232St Catherine’s Cloister 215St Magnus Cathedral 259St Mary’s Church 248-9St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral

215Suomenlinnan Kirkko 166Temppeliaukion Kirkko 171Tuomiokirkko 170Uspenskin Katedraali 170-1

climate 16, 20-2, 308Copenhagen 7, 90-109, 93,

102-3drinking & nightlife 107-9entertainment 109food 105-7highlights 94-7itineraries 92planning 92-3shopping 104-5sights 100-1tourist information 109tours 101-4transport 109walking tour 98-9, 98-9

credit cards 310cruise lines 26-9

sustainability 30-1currency 16

customs regulations 308cycling

Amsterdam 83Berlin 57Copenhagen 104Helsinki 174Oslo 122Reykjavík 276Stockholm 161

Ddangers, see safetydesign 18, 83, 96-7, 153, 171-4,

174-5Designmuseum Danmark 96-7disabilities, travellers with 312distilleries 87-8, 259drinking & nightlife 25, 306

Eelectricity 308-9environmental issues 286-7etiquette 308European Solidarity Centre

242-3European Union 287events 20-1exchange rates 310

Ffamily travel 32-3Fernsehturm 54ferries 313festivals & events 20-2films 23fjords 137

Aurlandsfjorden 135Geirangerfjord 135Hardangerfjord 134Lysefjord 135Sognefjorden 134-5tours 140

food 24, 158, 304-6

foraging 306local specialities 305-6New Nordic cuisine 304-5

fortresses, see castles & fortresses

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks & gardensgay travellers 62, 309Gdańsk 15, 238-55, 241, 250

drinking & nightlife 255food 252-4highlights 242-5itineraries 240planning 240-1shopping 252sights 248-52tourist information 255transport 255walking tour 246-7, 246-7

Geirangerfjord 135Gendarmenmarkt 49geography 298-9Geysir 269Golden Circle 268-9Golden Gate 251Great Arsenal 251Great Mill 251Gullfoss 269

HHackesche Höfe 49-52Hanseatic League 254, 292Hardangerfjord 134health 309Helsinki 11, 162-79, 165, 172-3

drinking & nightlife 177-8entertainment 178food 175-7highlights 166-7itineraries 164planning 164-5000 Map pages

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H–M INDEX 317

shopping 174-5sights 170-4tourist information 179tours 174transport 179walking tour 168-9, 168-9

Hermitage, the 184-9, 188-9historic sights 19history 288-97

Hanseatic League 292Reformation 293-4social democracy 297Viking era 290-1WWII 296-7

holidays 311Holocaust Memorial (Berlin)

48-9hot springs 276hygge 108

Iimmigration 287insurance 309-10internet access 17, 310

KKadriorg 210-11King’s Day (Koningsdag) 20-1KODE 132-3

Llanguages 16lesbian travellers 62, 309local life 24-5Lysefjord 135

MMaeshowe 258-9markets

Amsterdam 78, 84Bergen 140Berlin 58Copenhagen 106

Gdańsk 244-5Helsinki 175Rīga 226-7Stockholm 157-8Tallinn 219

measures 312microbreweries, see breweriesMidnight Sun 300mobile phones 311monasteries 198-9money 16, 310-11museums & galleries 18

ABBA: The Museum 153Amber Museum 249-51Anne Frank Huis 74-5Arsenāls Exhibition Hall 232Art Museum Rīga Bourse

232-3Artus Court Museum 248Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection

274Ásmundarsafn 271Astrup Fearnley Museet 119Ateneum 170Bergen Kunsthall 137-9Bryggens Museum 131Corner House 233Culture House 271-4DDR Museum 54Design Museum (Helsinki)

171-4Designmuseum Danmark 96-7Deutsches Historisches

Museum 48East Berlin’s Stasi Museum 49Edvard Grieg Museum 136Ehrensvärd- Museo 167Estonian Art Museum 211Estonian Open-Air Museum

215-18European Solidarity Centre

242-3Fabergé Museum 194-5Fotografiska 153-6Gemäldegalerie 54-5

Great Guild Hall 214Hafnarhús 271Hamburger Bahnhof –

Museum für Gegenwart 52-3

Hanseatic Museum 137Harpa 271Hermitage Amsterdam 79Hermitage Storage Facility

195-8Hermitage, the 184-9, 188-9Historical Museum of

Gdańsk 248Historiska Museet 156Hotel Viru KGB Museum 215i8 270Ibsen Museet 118Icelandic Phallological

Museum 275Jüdisches Museum 55-6Kansallismuseo 171Kiasma 170Kjarvalsstaðir 271KODE 132-3Kon-Tiki Museum 115Kumu 211Latvian Ethnographic Open-

Air Museum 233-5Lennusadam 218Marble Palace 194Mikkel Museum 211Moderna Museet 152-3Munchmuseet 122Museum für Naturkunde 52Museum het Rembrandthuis

78Museum of Finnish

Architecture 174Museumsinsel 53-4Museum Willet-Holthuysen

79-82Nasjonalgalleriet 118National Gallery of Iceland

274-5National Maritime Museum

249

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318 INDEX M–R

museums & galleries continuedNational Museum (Reykjavík)

264-5National Museum’s Depart-

ment of Early Art 251-2Nationalmuseet 100Nobels Fredssenter 119Norsk Folkemuseum 115Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek 100-1Ole Bull Museum 136-7Polarship Fram Museum 115Reykjavík Art Museum 271Rīga Art Nouveau Museum

229Rijksmuseum 78Russian Museum 194Saga Museum 275Settlement Exhibition 270Shetland Museum 256Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum

275Skansen 153Sotamuseo Maneesi 167St Isaac’s Cathedral 195Statens Museum for Kunst

101Stedelijk Museum 82Stroganov Palace 194Suomenlinna-Museo 167Topographie des Terrors 49Van Gogh Museum 72-3Vasamuseet 148-9Víkin Maritime Museum 275Vikingskipshuset 114-15Whales of Iceland 275

music 23, 282

NNational Museum (Reykjavík)

264-5Ness of Brodgar 259nightlife, see drinking & nightlifeNoma 305

Northern Lights 300Noss 256-7

OOrkney Islands 258-9Oslo 8, 110-25, 113, 120-1

drinking & nightlife 125food 123-5highlights 114-15itineraries 112planning 112-13shopping 122-3sights 118-22tourist information 125tours 122transport 125walking tour 116-17, 116-17

Ppalaces

Grand Palace (Peterhof) 195Kadriorg Palace 211Kungliga Slottet 152Marble Palace 194Menshikov Palace 187Presidential Palace (Tallinn)

211Royal Palace (Amsterdam)

78-9Royal Palace (Oslo) 119Schloss Charlottenburg 56-7Stroganov Palace 194Winter Palace of Peter I 187Yusupov Palace 198

parks & gardensKadriorg 210-11Mikhailovsky Garden 191Tiergarten 54Tivoli Gardens 94-5Vigelandsanlegget 119-22Vondelpark 78

Peterhof 195

Þingvellir National Park 268-9planning

calendar of events 20-2cruise lines 26-9sustainable cruises 30-1travel with children 32-3

polar bears 303Polar Night 300population 287public holidays 311 puffins 257, 275, 276, 277, 303

RRáðhús 271Reformation 293-4Reichstag 42-3religion 287Reykjavík 14, 260-83, 263,

272-3activities 275-7drinking & nightlife 282-3food 278-82highlights 264-9itineraries 262planning 262-3shopping 277-8sights 270-5tourist information 283transport 283

Rīga 15, 222-37 225, 234drinking & nightlife 237food 235-7highlights 226-9itineraries 224planning 224-5shopping 235sights 232-3tourist information 237tours 235transport 237walking tour 230-1, 230-1

Rīga Central Market 226-7Rijksmuseum 78

000 Map pages

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S–Z INDEX 319

SSachsenhausen Concentration

Camp 53safety 89, 308sagas 292saunas 176senior travellers 89Shetland Islands 256-7shopping 24Skara Brae 258smoking 312Sognefjorden 134-5spas 218-19St Ninian’s Isle 257St Petersburg 12, 180-205, 183,

196-7, 201, 202drinking & nightlife 203-5entertainment 204-5food 200-3highlights 184-91itineraries 182planning 182-3shopping 200sights 194-9tourist information 205tours 199transport 205walking tour 192-3, 192-3

Stadshuset 152Stockholm 10, 144-61, 147,

154-5drinking & nightlife 160-1food 157-60highlights 148-9itineraries 146planning 146-7

shopping 157sights 152-6tourist information 161tours 156-7transport 161walking tour 150-1, 150-1

Sumburgh Head 257Suomenlinna 166-7sustainable cruises 30-1swimming 276synagogues 52

TTallinn 13, 206-21, 209, 216-17

activities 218-19drinking & nightlife 220-1food 220highlights 210-11itineraries 208planning 208-9shopping 219sights 214-18tourist information 221tours 219transport 221walking tour 212-13, 212-13

taxis 313telephones services 311theatres 198, 204, 205time zones 17, 311tipping 310-11Tivoli Gardens 94-5Tjörnin 270toilets 311tourist information 311-12train travel 313

travel to/from Scandinavia 312-13

travel within Scandinavia 313

Vvacations 311Van Gogh Museum 72-3Vasamuseet 148-9Viðey 281Vikings

history 290-1museums 114-15, 264-5, 270,

275visas 16, 205, 312

Wwalking tours

Amsterdam 76-7, 76-7Berlin 46-7, 46-7Copenhagen 98-9, 98-9Gdańsk 246-7, 246-7Helsinki 168-9, 168-9Oslo 116-17, 116-17Rīga 230-1, 230-1St Petersburg 192-3, 192-3Stockholm 150-1, 150-1Tallinn 212-13, 212-13

weather 16, 20-2, 308weights 312whales 275, 276, 277, 302-3White Nights 22, 199wildlife-watching 276, 277

Zzoos 215-18

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These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number

h Opening hoursp Parkingn Nonsmokinga Air-conditioningi Internet accessW Wi-fiaccesss Swimming pool

g Busf Ferryj Tramd TrainE English-

language menuv Vegetarian

selectionc Family-friendly

1 Sights

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

h Art & Culture

p Beaches

a Budget

s Cafe/Coffee

m Cycling

x Detour

u Drinking

d Entertainment

q Events

b Family Travel

k Food & Drink

v History

r Local Life

f Nature & Wildlife

A Photo Op

g Scenery

z Shopping

n Short Trip

l Sport

c Walking

o Winter Travel

Find your best experiences with these Great For... icons.

Symbols & Map Key

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving

Bodysurfing

Sleeping

EatingEntertainment

Shopping

Drinking & Nightlife

CafeCamping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

Skiing

SnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

AirportBART station

Boston T stationBorder crossing

Bus

CyclingFerry

Underground/U-Bahn station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT station

Petrol stationSubway/S-Bahn/Skytrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTramTube Station

Other Transport

Cable car/Funicular

Information

Geographic

Sights Points of Interest Transport

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Andrea Schulte-PeeversBorn and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. Despite a passion for her home town, she packed her bags right after school, decamping first to London, then to Los Angeles, where she haunted the hallowed halls of UCLA in pursuit of a degree in English literature. Equipped with such highly sought-after credentials, she fearlessly embarked on a career in journalism, soon getting tapped by Lonely Planet for her Germany expertise.

Regis St LouisRegis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent

his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kam-chatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.

Donna WheelerDonna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for over ten years, including the Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Austral-ia titles. She is the author of Paris Precincts, and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist. Born and bred in Sydney, Australia, Donna fell in love with Melbourne’s moody bluestone streets as a teenage art student. She has divided her time between there and her beloved home town for over two decades, along with residential stints in Turin, Paris, Bordeaux, New York, London and rural Ire-land. Donna travels widely (and deeply) in Europe, North Africa, the US and Asia.

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Abigail BlasiA freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong and Copenha-gen. Lonely Planet have sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and around Britain. She writes regularly for newspapers and magazines, such as the Independent, the Tel-egraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three children and they often come along for the ride. Twitter/Instagram: @abiwhere

Cristian BonettoCristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corri-ere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV script-writer slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Instagram: rexcat75.

Marc Di DucaA travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Rail-way, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské LáznĕintheCzechRepublicwithhiswifeandtwosons.

Catherine Le NevezCatherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.

Hugh McNaughtanA former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant ap-plications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne)

he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field.

Becky OhlsenBecky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet. Becky grew up with a thick book of Swedish fairy tales illustrated by John Bauer, so the deep black forests of Norrland hold particular fascination for her. Hiking through them, she’s alert for trolls and tomtes (which, to the un-trained eye, look just like big rocks). Though raised in the mountains of Colorado, Becky has been ex-ploring Sweden since childhood, while visiting her grandparents and other relatives in Stockholm and parts north. She’s thoroughly hooked on pickled herring and saffron ice cream but has nothing good to say about Swedish beer. When she’s not cover-ing ground for LP, Becky is working on a book about motorcycles and the paradoxical appeal of risk.

Leonid RagozinLeonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new homeinRīga.

Simon RichmondJournalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped count-ing the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches. His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine; and Austral-ia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian Financial Review Magazine.

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Alexis AverbuckAlexis Averbuck has travelled and lived all over the world, from Sri Lanka to Ecuador, Zanzibar and Antarctica. In recent years she’s been living on the Greek island of Hydra and exploring her adopted homeland and adventuring along Iceland’s surreal lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier tongues. A travel writer for over two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia, Europe and the Americas. She’s also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com – and promotes travel and adventure on video and television.

Oliver BerryOliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Mag-azine People’s Choice Award. His first trip abroad was to the south of France at the tender age of two, and since then his travels have carried him several times round the globe.

Andy SymingtonAndy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football team or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With-in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne,

Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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