where® thailand may 2012

m a y 2 0 1 2 the complete guide to go ®

®

PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK

Discovering Bangkok’s top neighborhoods

Thailand PLU

S

capitalcommunities

COVER_1.indd 1 4/27/12 7:08 PM

P.2 SOW_May2012.indd 1 4/26/12 8:19 PM

also inside

4 Hot dates

16 Hot stuff

29 navigate

34 30 tHings We Love

Features

the guideBangkok

contentswhere® l THAILAND l mAY 2012

18 arts+CultureThe top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

25 nightlifeA new Gothic-themed bar brings a bewitching vibe to Sukhumvit

20 diningWe introduce two exciting new Thai restaurants and take a tour of Chinatown

26 shoPs+serviCesThe city's latest mall offers a blend of Thai history and great river views

28 health+WellnessThe city's newest spa promises an urban oasis in the heart of the city

29 MaPsSilom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd.22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: [email protected]

facebook.com/WhereThailand

MVP | EXECUTIVEVice President, Operations Donna KesslerVice President, Operational Innovation Russ LesebergDirector Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NaTIoNal SalESDirector Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

MVP | CarTograPhy aNd CIrCUlaTIoNGeneral Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

E-Mails For All Of The Above: [email protected]

MorrIS VISITor PUBlICaTIoNS

MorrIS CoMUNICaTIoNS

Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris IiiPresident William S. Morris Iv

MVP | CrEaTIVEChief Creative Officer Haines WilkersonEditorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane FreyEditorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda ChaseCreative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TEChNology & MaNUfaCTUrINgDirector Of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: [email protected]

05 l Community FoCusWe take you on a tour of four of Bangkok's

most fascinating neighborhoods.

10 l Border Patroldiscovering a hidden city and a slower pace

of life in sangklaburi on the Burmese border

12 island neWs

14 Mountain neWs

escapes

5

10

12Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures

Editor Top Koaysomboon

General Manager James Fuss

Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai

Marketing Manager Arunee WilsonMarketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat TeerakawongsakulDistribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

Cover by Dechart SangsawangCover images, clockwise from top left: WTF, Siam Discovery, Museum Siam, Chakrabongse Villa, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Asiatique, Prachanaruemit Rd.

MaY 2012 i WHere tHailand 3

TOC_3_1_NEW.indd 3 4/27/12 6:59 PM

hot dates THAILAND

4 WHERE THAILAND I may 2012

Y

May 9Royal Ploughing CeRemony

Held annually at Sanam Luang, in front of the Grand Palace, the Royal Ploughing Ceremony is an ancient Hindu-influenced rite to mark the traditional beginning of the rice planting season. Officials dressed in ornate ceremonial outfits lead two sacred oxen to plough the ceremony’s grounds before they offer the oxen different types of food (rice, corn, liquor and more). A Brahman fortuneteller will then predict the coming harvest based on what food the oxen choose. The king or a royal dignitary will attend. Sanam Luang, Phranakhon, Bangkok. Contact TaT Contact Center 1672 for further details.

May 25lady gaga: The BoRn This Way BallAfter two years of planning, America’s zany pop queen, Lady Gaga, is finally set to perform her extravagant show at Rajamangala Stadium on the outskirts of Bangkok. Expect a newly-designed performance specially created for the Oceanic leg of her world tour. Tickets are from B1,500-B7,000, at Thaiticketmajor.com.

May 9-12les BalleTs TRoCkadeRo de monTe CaRloThe comedic all-male ballet group from New York returns to Bangkok to perform the classic Swan Lake but with a burlesque twist that mixes the classical and contemporary—and with plenty of cross-dressing. Tickets are B1,700-3,000. at Royal Paragon hall, 5/F, siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023. BTs siam. www.thaiticketmajor.com

May 3-6demon in VeniCeYoung, up-and-coming Thai choreographer Jitti Chompee’s latest contemporary dance is his own interpretation of the classic short novel Death in Venice written by German author Thomas Mann. The subject? A writer who visits the Italian city to cure his writer’s block and becomes infatuated with a beautiful boy. Ticket B500. at Jeh united, 142-144 sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-5499. [email protected], www.18monkeydancetheatre.com

May 26-Jun 2samui RegaTTaStarted as a small race in 2001, the Samui Regatta is now one of Asia’s largest yacht races and the finale of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix season. Hundreds of luxe vessels, sailors, spectators and parties are expected during the eight-day event. If you brought your yacht, the entry fee to race is B12,500 per team. at Centara grand samui, Chaweng Beach, 077-230-500, and Beach Republic, lamai Beach, 077-458-100. www.samuiregatta.com

Jun 1-3Jim ThomPson saleThe famous Thai silk company hosts its annual sale featuring fabrics, carpets, curtains, clothes and small accessories, all at bargain prices you won’t find elsewhere—not even at its discount outlets. at BiTeC, Bang na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. BTs Bang na.

Co

ur

tes

y o

f M

inis

tr

y o

f A

gr

iCu

ltu

re

An

d C

oo

per

At

ives

Hot Dates MAY_12_NEW.indd 4 4/27/12 6:48 PM

may 2012 I WHERE THAILAND 5

feature Y

A view from ThreesixTy, millennium hilTon

Upper Chao PhrayaRoyal palaces, historic shophouses and stunning river views

See

Your trip to Bangkok wouldn’t be complete without a visit to The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Entry fee B350. Open daily 8.30am-3.30pm. Proper attire is required.) The highlights at the palace include the Chakri Mahaprasat Hall, dubbed the ‘Westerner with the Thai hat’ due its mix of architectural styles. Located next door is Wat Phra Kaeo. The grounds feature a series of striking golden chedis and beautiful hand-painted murals based on the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The most important building is the ordination hall (ubosot), which houses the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred religious icon.

This neighborhood is rich in history, which can be explored through two local museums. The Bangkok National Museum (Entry fee B250. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th),

offers three permanent exhibitions, covering Thai history, archaeological artifacts and decorative arts, housed inside a series of ornate pavilions. Meanwhile, the Museum of Siam (Sanamchai Rd) offers a more interactive and fun approach to Thai history.

This district is also home to the infamous Khao San Road. This former rice market is now a popular tourist destination due to the numerous cheap guesthouses, street stalls, cafes, bars and clubs, which give the place a very distinctive vibe. You can escape the craziness, though, with a short stroll to the neighboring Phra Arthit Road, with its funky bars and cafes (see Drink) sitting inside beautiful old shophouses that retain many period details. Situated halfway down Phra Athit is Phra Sumen Fort, a stocky citadel, part of the river defences constructed in 1783 to protect the capital. The area around the fort is now a popular park called Suan Santichaiprakarn.

Finally, you also shouldn’t miss a walk through Tha Prachan, between Tha Thien and Maharaj Piers. Bangkok’s leading amulet market offers everything related to the sacred objects, from decoration services to pawn shops and book stores.

Eat

This area is heaven for those wanting to dine riverside. The Deck (Arun Residence, Soi Pratunokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-221-9158) is the best known spot thanks to its great views across to Wat Arun and good menu of international and Thai dishes. Book ahead to secure one of the best spots out on the outdoor terrace. Also sat by the river, Chakrabongse Villa (396 Maharaj Rd., Ta Tien, 089-810-0498, 081-905-3039, www.chakrabongsedining.com) is actually a former royal palace. It offers private dining where you get to sample authentic Thai cuisine amid opulent surroundings. Over on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya,

Neighborhood WatchThe top districts to explore in the capital.

Bangkok is a huge, sprawling city which can make it very bewildering for visitors trying to find their way around. We

make things a little easier by taking you on a tour of our four favorite neighborhoods.

Feature_MAY12v2.indd 5 4/27/12 7:29 PM


featureY

Supratra River House (Soi Wat Rakang, 02-411-0305) serves up royal Thai cuisine as well as Thai cultural performances, and great views of the Grand Palace from the charming riverside terrace. You can reach Supatra by free shuttle boat from Maharaj Pier.

Drink

Phra Arthit is home to a number of intriguing little bars that have plenty of original character. Try Jazz Happens (02-282-9934) with its live performances; long time favorite Kin Duem (02-629-1199) in its charming old shophouse; and, our pick, Brown Sugar (Phra Sumane Rd., 081-805-7759), a top music spot with a second floor art space.

Shop

Get a cross-river ferry from Prachan Pier to Wang Lang Market (Wang Lang Pier) and you’ll discover one of Bangkok’s most popular bazaars for vintage finds. If you don’t mind getting hot and sweaty then dive into this rabbit warren of stalls and get ready to rub shoulders with office workers and students on the hunt for cool vintage bags, shoes and clothes at very affordable prices.

ChAkrAbongse villA

mAndArin orienTAl

See A short walk from Charoen Krung Road Serindia Gallery (O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-238-6410), in the lovely O.P. Garden complex focuses on the art and culture of Asia and has regularly rotating exhibitions. Alternatively, head down to Central pier (BTS Saphan Thaksin) to visit two nautically inspired temples. Jiew Eng Biew Shrine (next to Central Pier) is a Chinese temple constructed 150 years ago to commemorate a major shipwreck, while the nearby Wat Yannawa features a pagoda built in the shape of a Chinese junk to commemorate the importance of trade with China.

EatYou are seriously spoilt for choice at the legendary Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (Oriental Ave, Charoenkrung, 02-659-9000), home to a number of great restaurants. You can try the sexy Shanghai sophistication of China House, enjoy the expansive river views and impeccable service at Lord Jim’s, sip high tea at the historic Author’s Lounge, while Le Normandie has set the standards for French cuisine for years. For more local fare then head to the riverside teak decking at Thiptara (Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888) where you can discover home-style Thai cooking and spotless service. Across the river, Sambal (1/F, Royal Orchid Sheraton, Captain Bush Lane, 02-266-0123) offers up

Lower Chao PhrayaRiverside luxury and nautical tales



feature Y

Shop

Asiatique The Riverfront (2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488) is probably Bangkok’s first shopping center on the banks of Chao Phraya River. Themed according to the city’s architecture of yore, and divided into several sections, this giant alfresco mall is also home to countless shops, bars, eateries and a number of theaters (See Shopping page 26).

If you are looking for a unique gift for you or your family, then the recently renovated River City (Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077), is home to a vast collection of arts, antiques, lifestyle products and an auction house. Nearby, OP Garden (Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186, 02-235-8865), the three-level lifestyle mall features almost 30 upscale outlets, from furniture shops like Reflections and Solutions to restaurants and cafes like Mango Tree Signature and Doitung. From there, a short walk gets you to O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38,

02-266-0186) whose plushly carpeted, chandelier-lit corridors offer numerous high-end art and antique boutiques. Finally, make sure you don’t miss Lotus Art de Vivre (1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 02-235-1875), which stocks refined one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories.

vivA&Aviv

South East Asian dishes while the Sunday high tea at the Shangri-la (Soi Wat Suan Plu, 02-206-8677), has a mini-orchestra serenading impeccably dressed ladies as they foxtrot across the dance floor.

Drink

Quite simply, Viva & Aviv (River City Shopping Complex, 23, Yotha Rd. 02-639-6305) has made the river cool again. It boasts a fun naval theme and pirate inspired-interiors and serves up some high-quality cocktails. On the roof of the same complex you’ll also find the underrated Balco (5/F, River City Shopping Complex, Yotha Rd., 08-4928-6161.), a laid-back bar with one of the best sunset river views in town. For another impressive view then head cross the river to the rooftop bar of the Millennium Hilton Hotel. ThreeSixty’s (32/F, Millennium Hilton, 02-442-2000. Klongsan Pier) wraparound windows and live jazz make it a very chill spot to watch the river traffic.



featureY

See

Within walking distance from the BTS is bar and gallery WTF Gallery & Cafe and sister event space Opposite (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. www.facebook.com/wtf.bangkok). Now open for two years it has quickly established itself as a gathering place for artists and hipster expats, with a varied program that includes sculptures, pop-up restaurants, live music events and a high-quality open mic night called Bangkok Poetry. Check their Facebook for updates.

Eat

Thonglor/Ekkamai is Bangkok’s most happening district for hip eateries. Thai food lovers should sample the classic dishes and service of Patara Fine Thai Cuisine (375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-185-2960/1), try the potent cocktails and flavorful offerings of Soul Food Mahanakhon (56/10 Thonglor, 02-714-7708) or enjoy the authentic Southern dishes at the charming Phuket Town (Thonglor Soi 6, 714-9402). 4 Garcons (Oakwood Residence, 113

Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547) offers classic French fare, Bacco Osteria (35/1 Sukhumvit 53, 02-662-4538) serves rustic Italian cuisine, while Xuan Mai has some of the best Vietnamese food in town. Meanwhile, The Water Library (Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/3) pushes the boundaries of Bangkok’s dining scene with a 12 course set menu served up to a maximum of 10 guests per night. For more dining see page 20.

Drink

There’s something for everyone: Iron Fairies (394 Thonglor, 084-520-2301) is a Victorian fairy factory, Clouds (Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365) is a clubby, futuristic eco-lab, while the always popular HOBS (Penny’s Balcony) and Brew Beer and Ciders (Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2366) have a pub vibe and a focus on imported beers. For a more refined wine-focused affair then Wine Republic (Thonglor, 02-714-7599) and Mellow (Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor, 02-382-0065) are currently the most popular. If you want to keep the party going then high-energy

night clubs like Muse, Demo and Funky Villa (all on Thong Lor Soi 10) do the trick.

Shop

Home to numerous community malls like J Avenue, Marketplace, Eight Thonglor, Penny’s Balcony, Grass Complex and Seenspace, the focus here is very much on cute stand alone boutiques often with a girly focus, oh and it also happens to be wedding dress central. Still, there are a couple of offbeat gems: Again & Again (Market Place Thonglor) stocks cool vintage fashion while Goose (Thonglor Soi 13) is a charming high end paper and scrapbooking store.

ThonglorThe city’s nightlife and dining hub

Bangkok’s Classic Shopping StreetsBangkok is a city blessed with specialist neighborhoods dedicated to a single craft or product. Here we round up some of the best known in town.

mellow

Bang Sue

Phaya ThaiPhra Nakorn

RattanakosinPathum Wan

BTS Siam

Khlong Toei

Thon Buri

Ban Mor, Ban Mor Rd. audio equipment and jewelry.

Kok Wua Rd. (near Khaosan Rd.) Secondhand books.

Sue Pa Rd. Phone accessories and leather.

Sapanlek, Charoenkrung Rd. Old cameras, video games.

Banglumpoo, Tanao Rd. (near Khaosan Rd.) Silver accessories.

Phukhao Thong, Boriphat Rd. Fireworks, monk bowls.

Prachanaruemit. Hand carved items and teak furniture.

National Stadium. Replica football kits, brand name boots and other sporting gear.

Mahachai Road. Wicker baskets and gifts.

Charoenrat Road. Leather, textiles and accessores.



feature Y

See

100 Tonson (Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-684-1527) is an art gallery that hosts contemporary art exhibitions from renowned Asian artists. Alternate contemplation is also available at the end of Wireless Road in the form of Lumpini Park. Bangkok’s largest downtown park is a leafy and calm oasis of playgrounds, lakes and pavilions making it a tranquil escape from the traffic and the crowds. Keep an eye out for the impressive monitor lizards, too. Finally, don’t miss the Erawan Shrine right next to Chidlom BTS. It’s a popular spot for people to pray for good fortune and is best known for the performances by its resident dance troupe.

Eat

Those looking for a spot of classic Western food are spoilt for choice: There’s BKK Bagel Bakery (Maneeya Center, 02-254-8157), specializing in New York style bagels. Cafe Tartine (Athenee Residence, 02-168-5464), an adorable French cafe on Soi Ruamrudee, serves coffee, light salads and French baguettes. While renowned New York-based café and deli Dean and Deluca (1/F, Park Ventures, 02-108-2200) has recently opened its second branch close to the BTS. For dinner, there’s everything from the raucous, Mexican cantina-esque La Monita (next to Mahatun Plaza, 02-650-9581) with the best tacos in town, to the B1,600 degustation menu at Gaggan, where the chef (who spent time at the El Buli research facility) re-interprets Indian classics in very modern ways.

Drink

Snotty and debauched Hyde & Seek Gastro Bar (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152) is the clear stand-out in the area with its high-flying clientele, killer cocktails and mix of Victorian gentleman’s club gravitas and New York sophistication. The old-school clubbing option in the area is Spasso (Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-250-1826), where you’ll meet well connected locals,

though Sita Bar at Tenface Bangkok (Soi Ruamrudee 2, 02-695-4242) is a new hit among young socialites.

Shop

A shopper’s paradise, the neighborhood is home to countless malls. ID1, at Amarin Plaza (Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704), has quirky budget fashion options while Gaysorn (Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149) is home to top-notch luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior and Fendi. Central Chidlom (Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777) is one of Asia’s leading malls. It’s not big enough to get lost in but still houses enough out there brands to keep things edgy.

Ploenchit Malls, mysticism and a green oasis

hyde & seek

deAn & deluCA



AROUND THAILANDY

Songaria river, a view from mon Bridge

Cultural TrekSangklaburi is most beautiful in the early morning, and it’s worth getting up with the sun to take part in the town’s most famous activity: offering morning alms. Every morning, monks walk from Wat Wangwiwekaram on the Mon side of the river, crossing the 400-meter long Mon bridge to accept alms, their orange robes standing out vividly against the chilly morning mist. Once the alms giving is complete, you can repeat the journey of the monks, crossing the bridge to the Burmese side. Here you’ll find the newly-built Wat Wangwiwekaram and Chedi Buddhakaya, which were both built to replace the previous temple which is now underwater.

Jungle RaftingDespite the sleepy vibe you can indulge in some adventure, with a ride-and-raft trip. It’s available through most resorts though

the one from P Guesthouse (B850-950/person) is the best known and includes one night’s accommodation and one lunch. You catch a small boat from town and head up the Ranti River before being dropped off in the middle of the dense jungle. You’ll then clamber onto the backs of elephants for an hour-long ride before donning a life vest and jumping onto rather flimsy looking bamboo rafts for the float back downstream. The entire trip takes around five hours.

Hidden CityThe other boat trip available here is a little less strenous and involves a short ride to what the locals call “the underwater city.” The city is actually the old Wangwiwekaram Temple, which was submerged as part of the Khao Laem Dam construction process. When the water level drops in the dry season (Mar-Apr), entire buildings appear above the water. For the rest of the year, you can actually float over the top of the temple

rooftops. The boat trip takes around half an hour, and costs B200 (at Mon bridge) to B300 (at your hotel) per boat of 5-6 people.

Coffee AromaIf not traveling in winter, the midday in Sangklaburi can get deadly hot. Still it’s the perfect excuse to chill out at one of the three hip cafés in Town. Blend Cafe (next to bus station, 034-595-204) is the only one in an air-conditioned shophouse—ideal for a hot day—and features ivory-colored walls, vintage-print tiles, relaxed seating and Arabica coffee. Coffee Berry (Soi Sam Prasob, 084-802-9811) has a Mediterranean blue and white theme, with

Sangklaburi is little known to Thais, let alone appearing on the radar of international tourists, but this mini commune on the banks of Songaria River, close to the Thai-Burmese border, has been a long-time destination for western volunteers who come to assist the displaced mix of stateless Thai and Mon people, who were resettled here when their villages were submerged by the construction of the Khao Laem Dam in 1982. The unique cultural mix is just one factor that makes Sangklaburi a truly charming destination, a place that offers jungle treks, underwater cities, cute cafes and river rafting.

A Weekend in Sangklaburi This sleepy haven of global NGOs is now a serene new destination for peace seekers. By Top Koaysomboon

mon Bridge

AROUND THAILAND_MAY12_NEW.indd 10 4/27/12 7:26 PM


AROUND THAILAND Y

lots of handmade details like chairs and mobiles. Finally, Graph Cafe (Srisuwan Khiri Rd., 081-751-2365) is the spot for design fans and is always popular with NGO-types. You can also shop for a bunch of locally-made merchandise, from postcards to bags, to support the charities. Coffee Berry and Graph Cafe both offer guestrooms hidden in their backyards.

Getting thereYou can catch a bus from Mochit Bus Station, from Bangkok to Dan Chedi Sam Ong (B302/way), but the trip takes around 6 hours. You might be better off renting a car or private mini bus and reduce your journey time to just four hours.

Getting AroundMotorcycle taxis head all over town with prices starting from B10. Rent a motorbike at P Guesthouse (B250/day, see

Where to Stay) or you can hire a bicycle, too (B70/day) but be warned, this area is very hilly.

Where to stayRiverside options include the American country-style P Guesthouse (B250-950. Srisuwan Khir Rd., 034-595-061, 081-450-2783) and the more luxurious Samprasob Resort (B900-3,000. Samprasob Rd., 034-595-050), which has a great view over the Mon bridge. Coffee Berry (B800. Soi Sam Prasob,

084-802-9811) offers five rooms decked out in five different themes, while the four guestrooms of Haiku Guesthouse (Srisuwan Khiri Rd., 081-751-2365) are housed in a traditional Japanese house behind Graph Cafe.

VoluntourismFor those interested in volunteering to help stateless children, Baan Un Rak (034-595-428, [email protected], www.baanunrak.org) has a number of programs.

Burmese BuffetWith the strong Burmese culture in the area, it’s the perfect excuse to try some authentic Burmese dishes. One of the best places is the restaurant at the Burmese Inn (034-595-146, www.burmeseinn.com) where you’ll get to enjoy dishes like Burmese-style chilli paste

and noodles. The Mon region is also famous for khanom jin or rice noodles (khanom juen in Mon language), so don’t forget to try the local recipe kanom chine yuak kluay (rice noodle with banana’s trunk soup). Have it at a no-name place at the foot of the Mon Bridge on the Burmese side, and enjoy it while watching the world go by.

Haiku gueStHouSe

AROUND THAILAND_MAY12.indd 11 4/26/12 7:01 PM

Island NewsGrand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s

top beach destinations

IntercontInental samuI


ESCAPESY

Y KOH SAMUI

Beach BlessingCouples looking for a memorable wedding by the beach take heed: the InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort is launching a series of wedding packages starting from B78,000. Guided by an appointed wedding planner, your wedding, in either traditional Thai or classic Western style, will include flower arrangements, professional photographers, fine cuisine, a wedding cake, an escort by a baby elephant, live music, flying lanterns and fireworks. Have the ceremony on a private pier over the water, on the beach or in a beachfront villa. Or just hire out all 79 villas for family and friends. Room rates are from B12,900 per night for a minimum three-night stay, inclusive of breakfast, a bottle of champagne, 90-minute spa treatment for two and a three-course set dinner. Taling Ngam Beach, Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077-429-100. [email protected], samui.intercontinental.com

Unlimited View Perched on the northern tip of the island, the elevated deck of Six Senses’ Dining on the Rocks offers a breathtaking view over the deep blue sea, the perfect backdrop for those wedding photos.Six Senses Samui, 9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Koh Samui, 077-245-678. www.sixsenses.com

Sophisticated Orient Set in a resort which takes its architectural cues from ancient China, Le Meridien will bring a bit of chic Shanghai-era romance to any wedding, whether it is at the beachfront restaurant or private beachfront pool villa.

Le Meridien Koh Samui, Lamai Beach, Koh Samui, 077-960-888. www.lemeridien.com/kohsamui

Minimal Chic From its striking white architecture to its stunning red swimming pool next to the beach, The Library is just perfect for those uber-stylish couples who swear by the latest trends in Wallpaper* and Monocle.The Library, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, 077-422-767/8. www.thelibrary.co.th

More beachside wedding options in Koh Samui

NEWS ISLAND_NEW.indd 12 4/27/12 6:51 PM


ESCAPES Y

prIvate museum

Y NATIONWIDE

Beach LifeCentara Hotels & Resorts is offering packages to weekenders who can add an extra night or two to their stays. Valid now through Oct 31, choose from three- to five-night stays with daily breakfast, one-hour massage for two and a roundtrip airport transfer. Prices vary, from B8,070 for three nights in a tropical suite at Centara Chaan Talay Resort & Villas, in Trat, to B42,100 for three nights in a luxury pool suite at Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket. Visit www.centarahotelsresorts.com/package/LifeBeach.asp for reservations.

Y PHUKET & PHANG NGA

Low-Season DealsFor the second year, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is teaming up with airlines and hotels to offer tempting packages to bring back tourists to Phuket and Phang Nga during the low season. “Phuket Great Time: Season 2” features two styles of packages: Jib Jib packages include a two-night stay and car rental, while Miracle Phuket-Phang Nga packages include two nights, car rentals and roundtrip air tickets. Rates for Jib Jib packages are B2,600-4,950 per person, depending on your choice of hotels while rates for Miracle Phuket-Phang Nga offers are B5,755-8,255 per person if you fly Nok Air and B7,300-9,600 per person if you opt for Bangkok Airways. Rates are based on twin sharing. Visit www.phuketgreattine.com for more details, a complete list of participating hotels and to make reservations. Valid through Oct 25.

Y SAMUI

Hidden TreasuresWe were just introduced to Samui’s only private museum that sits on the banks of Pru Chaweng Lake and houses a vast collection of prehistoric items. The story goes that ML Arachawa Worawan, a veteran artist who designed one of Thailand’s very first boutique hotels, Muang Kulaypan (www.kulaypan.com), converted his villa-turned-restaurant

into the museum, exhibiting Ban Chiang prehistoric Thai ceramics and pottery, to demonstrate how long Thai people had been settled in the area. Historic artifacts include stones knives, axes, terracotta pots and jewelry aged from 3,000BC to 1,900AD. Open by appointment only, currently without entry fee. Contact 088-249-3901 or [email protected].

NEWS ISLAND_NEW.indd 13 4/27/12 6:52 PM

ESCAPESY


Zensala

Upcountry newsNew hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats.

Y CHIANG MAIZen RiverIn what is definitely a growing trend, we’ve uncovered yet another new boutique hotel in downtown Chiang Mai. Set on the bank of the Ping River, not far from the center of town, Zensala might have a very contemporary façade, featuring edgy lines and raw cement, but inside it’s all warm woods and brightly colored cushions. With 14 rooms and suites, it’s truly boutique, but they do manage to squeeze in an all-day restaurant, Deli, and a spa. Introductory rates are B2,000-5,300 until May 31, inclusive of breakfast.Zensala, 168 Patan Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-225-888. www.zensalaresort.

com

Y KHAOYAIWeekday WonderKhao Yai is a popular countryside escape close to Bangkok, which offers rugged tree-clad mountains and cool morning mists—and Kirimaya Resort now lets you experience it for less thanks to their new weekday deals. Their Muthi Maya forest pool villa is B7,900/night inclusive of breakfast, a glass of refreshing virgin mojito, a choice of body treatment at their spa and a choice between one set lunch or a round of golf. The promotion is valid on Sunday to Friday nights only.Kirimaya, Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasma,

044-426-000. www.kirimaya.com

Y NORTHERN THAILANDClassic SiamFor those who really want to experience the rich culture of Thailand, and get a little off the beaten track, but don’t want the stress of organizing their own trip, leading five-star tour operator Exotissimo has just introduced a six-day-five-night “Classic Thailand” program. Led by a professional tour guide, the trip caters to visitors who wish to explore the temples, museums and attractions of central and northern Thailand taking in Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Uthaithani, Phitsanuloke, Sukhothai, Lampang, Phayao, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai—a number of which contain UNESCO heritage sites. The rate is from B19,900 per person (exclusive of transportation from Chiang Mai to Bangkok), on a twin sharing basis.Exotissimo Travel Group, 02-633-9060. www.exotissimo.com

ZensalaZensala

NEWS MOUNTAIN_NEW.indd 14 4/27/12 6:54 PM

ESCAPES Y


Y CHIANG MAIAnimal RunA trip to Chiang Mai would not be complete without a visit to the zoo. At The Small Chiang Mai, a 35-room boutique hotel, guests staying for two consecutive nights or longer will get free entry to the Chiang Mai Night Safari, where the whole family will enjoy life on the wild side. The Small also boasts a quirky interior design and is well-located, close to Waroros Market and the old town. Rates from B1,550 per night through Oct 31. 148-150 Ta Pae Rd., Muang, 053-235-

866/7. www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

Y PETCHABUNFlower PowerDuring Thailand’s rainy season (basically from May to October), tropical orchid lovers should head to the jungle of Nam Nao National Park in Petchabun to witness the beauty of the Euang Bussarakham wild orchid, which only blossoms at this time of the year. Despite having delicate petals, the Euang Bussarakham’s stem can reach lengths of up to two meters and ranks as one of Thailand’s most amazing natural wonders. Contact TAT Phitsanulok at 055-252-742/3 for further details and exact locations of where to see the flower.

euang Bussarakham

The small

Fly Thai

Your trips to other provinces around Thailand just got cheaper, thanks to deals and packages from local carriers bracing themselves for the low season. THAI Airways (www.thaiairways.com) recently rolled out new fares between Bangkok and domestic destinations. For example, a one-way ticket is B1,930 to Khon Kaen, B2,185 to Chiang Mai, B2,630 to Phuket and B2,905 to Hat Yai. Seats are limited and rates include fuel surcharge but exclude airport taxes. Valid through Jun 30, visit www.thaiairways.com for details and reservations.

Chiang mai

NEWS MOUNTAIN_NEW.indd 15 4/27/12 6:54 PM

hot stuffY

Hat TrickEl Nino aside, May traditionally marks the real start of the rainy season in Thailand. It means you need to be prepared for hot and sticky weather interspersed with sudden tropical downpours. Keep the rain and sun off and stay cool and dry with these classic hats in natural materials.

1 Gucci, B12,900

2 Jaspal, B1,295

3 Emporio Armani, B10,900

4 Marks & Spencer, B1,290

5 Paul Smith, B5,500

6 Billabong, B1,190

Billabong, 3/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom.Emporio Armani, G/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit, Rd., 02-656-1134. BTS Chit Lom.Gucci, 1/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8200. BTS Phrom Phong. Jaspal, nationwide. Try 1/F, Terminal 21, 02-108-0876. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit.Marks & Spencer, 3/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom.Paul Smith, 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9770/1. BTS Siam.

Cou

rtes

y of

Em

por

io A

rman

i

16 WHERE THAILAND I MAY 2012

5

1

3

6

2

4

HOTSTUFF_1.indd 16 4/26/12 7:19 PM

where

Ythe guide

MAY 2012 I WHERE tHailand 17

art

Portraits de la ModeOngoing French Cultural Festival La Fete brings photographs of design icons—Yves-Saint Laurent behind the curtain, Kenzo riding an elephant, Jean-Paul Gaultier hugging Sonia Rykiel, Giorgio Armani sitting on an airport runway, and Karl Lagerfeld posing with his models in heavenly gowns—in this celebration of fashion captured by French photographer Jean-Marie Perier. Through Jun 30. In front of Zen Department Store, CentralWorld, Ratcha-damri Rd., BTS Chid Lom.

arts + CULtUrE .................................... 18-19

dining ...................................................... 20-24

nightLifE ........................................................25

shops + sErviCEs ................................26-27

hEaLth + wELLnEss .................................28

navigatE ........................................................29

maps ...........................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (W S24, Z D3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

cover guide MAY12_NEW.indd 17 4/27/12 6:44 PM

Art+Culture BANGKOKY

18 WHERE tHailand I MAY 2012

100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART — This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has a café and runs art workshops and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02-422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16

GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10

H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — A four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, is focused on promoting the work of up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27

NOSPACE GALLERY — This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and regular live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am-7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www.nospacebkk.com

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www.queengallery.org WS27

SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: the large Thai-focused Number 1 Gallery; Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art; and, Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ10

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a big art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4

ART ON FARM — A photo diary featuring 17 artworks created by 19 artists as part of Jim Thompson Farm’s annual art project. Through Jun 24. Jim Thompson Art Center, 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.

FUNDAMENTALS OF LIVING — A professor of fine arts, Tanupon En-on, captures the essence of Thai-Isaan culture in this series of sketches showing farming tools, local plants and animals. Through May 30. Whitespace Gallery, 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm..

BEYOND DESIRE — Artist Manit Srisuwan’s striking, slightly menacing abstract human forms look to challenge the assumptions that the drive for material gains really brings us fulfillment and happiness. Through May 19. Number 1 Gallery, Basement, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-630-2523. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Art Exhibition HigHligHts

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

Art GALLEriES

A&A listing MAY12_NEW.indd 18 4/27/12 6:43 PM

MAY 2012 I WHERE tHailand 19

Art+Culture Y

V64 — More than 60 artists from at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitesp-cegallery.com YM16

AttrActionS

FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for the kids to blow off steam. Offering painting, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. www.funarium.co.th. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours.

GRAND PALACE — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Here you’ll also find Wat Phra Kaeo (see below). Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

RATTANAKOSIN ExHIBITION HALL— Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. Don’t miss the stunning view from the rooftop. Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. B100. WS26

WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — One of the city’s best known landmarks is home to the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

WAT PHRA KAEO (TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. You

don’t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls surrounding the compound. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

MUSEUMS

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

KAMTHIENG HOUSE — This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open Tue-Sat. 9am-5pm. B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety.org ZB3

MUSEUM SIAM — The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.B300. www.museumsiam.com WQ23

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Don’t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 boats that make up the royal barge processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm.B30. WP27

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www.vimanmek.com

New>

Museum of Contemporary Art—MOCAOpen to the public last month, the Museum of Contemporary Art is the most impres-sive permanent collection of modern Thai art in the capital, and is funded by a telecom tycoon Boonchai Bencharongkakul. Highlights included celebrated artists Thawan Ducha-nee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Chakaphan Posayakrit. Open Tue-Sun 10-5:30pm. Entry fee B180. 499/50 Viphavadee Rangsit Rd., Lat Yao, Chatuchak, 02-953-1005/-7. www.mocabangkok.com

A&A listing MAY12_NEW.indd 19 4/27/12 6:43 PM

dining BANGKOKY


Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21

celadoN — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com.

driNkiNg Tea, eaTiNg rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21

d’SeNS — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

diNe iN The dark — International. $$$ Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarian—no other details—and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters. The three-course set menu is B750-B850 with 10% of profits donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. Xh13

eaT Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. Xg11

erawaN Tea rooM — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Price guide

$ Under B500$$ B500-900$$$ B9,000-1,500$$$$ B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

The LOcAL

The LocalThe name of this new restaurant sums up its concept nicely: chef and co-owner, Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes. Sample gang run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup, B240) from the Rama V era, and pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste, B250), a recipe taken from Siam’s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. These and similar dishes are served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house whose individual rooms take their inspiration from different Thai places and objects. If you want to learn more, the owner runs cooking lessons every Wednesday. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

DiNe iN The DArK

DOWNTOWN

Dining Listing MAY12_NEW.indd 20 4/27/12 6:46 PM

dining Y

MAY 2012 I WHERE THAILAND 21

giaNNi riSToraNTe — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

gaggaN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. Yo19

groSSi TraTToria — Italian. $$$$ Backed by Australian celeb-chef Guy Grossi, this is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro vibe, soaring ceilings and rustic, earthy cuisine. G/F,

InterContinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm. YM19

JiM ThoMpSoN Bar & reSTauraNT — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-con dining room have been serving up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes for years. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YM15

la MoNiTa Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Hands-down the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. YM21

Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight. YN19

NahM — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. Xg13

Streetwise>

YaowaratDue to a large immigrant population, Chinese culture has permeated Thailand in many ways, with cuisine being one of our favorites. The best place to enjoy Chinese and Thai-Chinese food in Bangkok is, of course, in Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat. It’s also the name of the major road running through this commercial hub, famous for its gold trade in particular. But when night falls, the entire street becomes a haven for foodies, whether it’s for the gourmet Chinese restaurants or the lines of Thai-Chinese street food stalls offering so many choices you won’t even know where to start. Here are some pointers. For typical Chinese restaurants, hop onto Padsai Road where you’ll find old favorites like Yim Yim (02-224-2205), New kwang Meng (02-224-2201) and Tang Jai Yoo (02-224-2167). For seafood, look out for two outdoor eateries facing each other at the intersection of Soi Texas, one with waiters wearing red and one with waiters wearing green: both are good and cheap. For desserts, tao tueng (Chinese-style sweets with longan juice and ice, opposite White Orchid Hotel) remains our favorite way to finish a taste trek in Yaowarat. From MRT Hua Lamphoong sta-tion, you can hop in a taxi (5 mins) or walk (15 mins) to Yaowarat Road. Most restaurants open daily from around 11am to 10pm but street stalls usual open from 5pm until around 1am.

GAGGAN

Dimsum AT yAOwArAT


dining Y


Niu’S — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. Xi10

reFlexioNS — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21

rueN urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

ShiNTaro — Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18

Sra Bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. Yl17

TaliNg pliNg—Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11am-10pm. Xi11

ZuMa — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

LOWer SukhumviT

11 gallerY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-to-ceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806. Open daily 10am-10:30pm. Zd3

Ma du Zi reSTauraNT BY YuYai — Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Zd3

roSaBieNg — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

SeaFood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. Zd3

upper SukhumviT

Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. Zc6

Bo.laN — Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight. Zd5

currieS aNd More BY BaaN kaNiTha — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to darling fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530/-5. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 11am-11pm. Zc6

BAccO

ZumA

nEW >

Café ClaireSet in the luxurious Oriental Residence on Wittayu, right next to the US Embassy’s leafy compound, Café Claire offers an elevated diner concept that works for any time of the day. With its booth seats and bar—this could be your typical American diner except that the materials used are anything but: think black leather, white marble and cream-colored menus with artsy typography. The menu of West-ern and Thai dishes, has a casual, all-day focus that ranges from crepes and eggs benedict, to salads and more substantial dishes like red curry and wagyu beef cheek with risotto. They also happen to be the first place in Thailand that officially serves the hi-so Singaporean brand TWG Tea with their high tea. But you can always opt to enjoy their classic cocktails and decent wine list with your dinner.Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000. YN20


MAY 2012 I WHERE THAILAND 23

dining Y

nEW >

near EqualThis long term favorite has now moved to a new and slightly easier to find location, half way down a beautifully quiet and leafy street, a short taxi ride from BTS Phrom Phong and on the same street as the new Rainhill community mall. Cross the small bridge with a moat filled with Koi to discover a delightful two-storey house. Upstairs the wood floors, antique pieces and colored screens make for a charming spot to enjoy well-presented and well-balanced Thai dishes; and when you’re finished you can head downstairs to browse the beautiful selection of Thai furniture, handicrafts and knick knacks on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565 Zc5

iNduS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. Ze5

iSao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. Zc4

isAO


dining Y


ThONGLOr/ ekkAmAi

4 garcoNS — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6

BoNJour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes are served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-1am. Zc6

FuZio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary décor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. ZB7

harveY — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6

khuN churN — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm. Zd7

phukeT TowN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. Zc6

Soul Food MahaNakorN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-midnight. Zc6

SurFace — French. $$$ Their outdoors vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they largely grow themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6

waTer liBrarY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB64

xuaN Mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. Za6

riverSiDe

The deck — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the 2nd floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. Wq23

le NorMaNdie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years —and the river views aren’t bad either. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11

SupaTra riverSide — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chaopraya River the view of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There’s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. Zp26

veNice vaNiche — Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restuarant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-222-8082. Open daily 11am-midnight. Zp26

dining Hood>

Sukhumvit Soi 11As well as being party central in Bangkok, thanks to some of Bangkok’s leading clubs, Sukhumvit Soi 11 is also home to an array of tasty food options ranging from Thai to tapas; and the list of places to eat before you hit the dance floor seems to be expanding daily. Here are our top picks of the latest openings: Two houses down from Bed Supperclub, oskar Bistro (02-255-3377; open daily 6-11pm) is a restaurant with a slightly clubby vibe thanks to the party crowd and live DJ but it also serves up some excellent bistro food from duck parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) to more simple pastas and burgers. Those who crave a beef patty could also check out the quirky Firehouse (02-651-3643; open daily 11:30-3am. www.firehousethailand.com). As the name suggests it’s decked out in a fiery red and features the owners impres-sive, and surprisingly quite lovely, firefighting paraphernalia from around the world. It’s fast become a favorite among Bangkok’s dedicated burger afficionados. Meanwhile, further up the street, in fact tucked down a tiny little soi that’s also home to the iconic Cheap Charlie’s Bar, there are two more new eateries. Snapper (02-651-1098; open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight) touts itself as Bangkok’s first NZ-style fish and chip bar and serves up interesting fish options, like the fleshy and strongly-flavored Tarakihi or the slightly milder Southern King Fish in a simple seafood shack-inspired shophouse. Finally, a couple of doors down you’ll find chez pape (Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-2492; open Mon-Sat 4pm-midnight; Sun 11am-10pm) a small, cozy Paris-style brasserie that serves up authentic French classics with a real focus on country-style dishes like jambon a l’os cuit dans son foin (slow cooked ham in hay) and slow roasted lamb stew with garden vegetables. Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana.

FuZiO

suPATrA riVersiDe


BANGKOK nightlife Y

may 2012 I WHERE tHailand 25

Downtown

Bed SuppercluB — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum n’ bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com ZA1

Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

OSkAr — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for pre-club drinks and dinner. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 4pm-2am. ZA1

Q BAr — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the recently renovated downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

THe ST regiS BAr — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the bloody mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www.stregis.com. YN18

RiveRsiDe

ViVA & AViV — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive and well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

thongLoR/ekkamai

clOudS — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-eco-inspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

FAT guT’z SAlOON — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A blues-fuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264

Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

irON FAirieS — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

MellOw — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

wiNe repuBlic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZA6

wTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. Zc5

fiveDesigned by the people behind

distinctive Bangkok hang outs like

Clouds, Fat Gut’z and Iron Fairies

(see listings, below), this corner plot

in a high-end community mall has

been converted into a gothic castle

cum Victorian factory. We’re talking a

little Bram Stoker meets the Industrial

Revolution: large flickering candles

are everywhere, hanging lanterns

glide gently up and down on pulleys,

while a metal spiral staircase curls up

to a mini-mezzanine with semi-circular

booths that float out over the space

below. It’s not just the atmosphere

that draws people in but some killer

cocktails, designed by an renowned

international mixologist, who combines

dramatic presentation with the freshest

ingredients. 233 K Village, Sukhumvit

Soi 26. Open 5pm-1am. www.fivebkk.

com

Nightlife listing_MAY12_NEW.indd 25 4/27/12 6:55 PM

ShopS+ServiceS BANGKOKY

26 WHERE tHailand I may 2012

Downtown

AmArin PlAzA — The mall’s Greco-Roman facade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com Ym18

CentrAl Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th Ym19

CentrAlWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th Ym18

erAWAn BAngkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com Ym18

gAysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com Ym18

mBk Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result, the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Ym16

PAntiP PlAzA — A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate, but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com Yk17

PlAtinum FAshion mAll — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion- related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www.platinumfashionmall.com Yk18

LANviN At ERAWAN

AsiAtiquE

Life on the riverIt seems Bangkok just can’t get enough of malls to escape the summer heat, but don’t shake your heads yet, this new shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. moreover, Asiatique The riverfront is themed according to the city’s architecture of old, and features a very distinctive atmosphere. Divided into several sections, the Charoenkrung District counts over 1,000 boutiques, the Town Square combines Eastern and Western culture with a variety of eateries, beer gardens and an outdoor activity square, the Factory District is set in a 100 year-old refurbished saw-mill with over 500 fashion stores, and finally the waterfront highlights the unique setting, with international restaurants, wine bars and a panoramic view of the Chao Phraya. The gigantic venue is also home to five stages which will welcome extravagant shows from cabaret girls and the award-winning Joe Louis puppet theater to the famous transgender extravaganza from Calypso Bangkok. To get there, catch the free boat from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

Y B

Y P

AT

TR

AY

UT

H P

EAN

TH

AM

Shop listing_MAY12_NEW.indd 26 4/27/12 6:56 PM

may 2012 I WHERE tHailand 27

ShopS+ServiceS Y

siAm Center — One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th Ym17

siAm disCovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th Ym16

siAm PArAgon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Ym17

Sukhumvit

the emPorium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4

terminAl 21 — One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

tERMiNAL 21

Siam SquareWhile the Siam area is best known for its long line of gleaming malls, selling the leading brand names, it also has an edgier side. Just across the street from the luxe fashion boutiques of siam Paragon lies siam square a small block of streets that’s been a hangout favorite for hordes of Bangkok university students since its opening in the 1960s. Slowly undertaking a gentrification it’s still home to funky cutting edge boutiques, cute cafes and hip music spots. Siam Square Soi 2, 3 and 4, in the shadow of IT mall Digital Gateway, are still a center of teen fashion, thanks to a mix of designers like Paa*, Mosstories, Mango Mojito and Poem. Music spots like old favorites DJ Siam and Do Re Me are often packed with teenagers there to buy latest albums and rare items. The newest zone called siam vintage (opposite Chula Book Center) sees a collection of fresh local and inter designs from various young enterpreneurs like Onion and ZM Bangkok. BTS Siam

Shopping Walk>

ElSEwhErE

CrystAl design Center — Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com

oP PlACe — Situated in a beautiful neoclassical-style building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across South East Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

mArkEtS

rAtChAdA night mArket — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

ChAtuChAk mArket — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

Shop listing_MAY12_NEW.indd 27 4/27/12 6:56 PM

HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkokY


I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XG13

LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com ZB3

THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa XJ11

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa. The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive organic products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN’s world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary, hidden behind Piyavate Hospital, is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. As well as more than 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-660-2602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com

URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

oasis sPa

Oasis Spa Sukhumvit 51The renowned rejuvenating spa has just

opened a new urban sanctuary close to

the central business district. Not that you

could tell that you’re in the heart of the

city: Oasis Spa Sukhumvit 51 is hidden

away in a bohemian house surrounded by

a lush tropical garden. The seven private

rooms are decked out with oriental details

and equipped with Jacuzzi hydrotherapy

and herbal steam baths. Get pampered

with a 90-minute Northern-Thai-inspired

treatment (The Voyage of Golden Lanna,

B5,900) or opt for the decadent 60-minute

four-hand massage (B2,500) carried out

by two therapists. Sukhumvit 51, 88

Sukhumvit Rd., 02-262-2122. Open daily

10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net ZC5

SPA

trAditionAl thAi mASSAge A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage.com WQ24

HEALTH AND WELLNESS_MAY12.indd 28 4/26/12 7:16 PM

bangkok Navigate Y


X

YZ

W

Bangkok Overview

Saphan TaksinÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Central Pier·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¡ÃØ§à·¾

Oriental·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

Si Phraya·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Ratchawong·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃÒªÇ§¤�

Krung Thon Buri¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

To Wongwian Yai Station

Hua Lamphong

ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Sam YanÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

SilomÊÕÅÁ

Chong Nonsiª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

SurasakÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Saphan Khwai ÊÐ¾Ò¹¤ÇÒÂ

AriÍÒÃÕÂ�

Sanam PaoÊ¹ÒÁà»‡Ò

Tha Tien·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Maharaj ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÁËÒÃÒª

Phra Athit·‹ÒàÃ×Í¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ�

WangLang·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Kamphaeng Phet¡Óá¾§à¾ªÃ

Bang SueºÒ§«×่Í

MoChit ËÁÍªÔµ

Huai KhwangËÑÇÂ¢ÇÒ§

SutthisanÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

RatchadapisekÃÑª´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Lat PhraoÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

ChatuchakParkÊÇ¹¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

VictoryMonumentÍ¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ�

Phaya Thai¾ÞÒä·

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É� Thong Lo

·Í§ËÅ‹Í

EkkamaiàÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Phra Khanong¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

SukhumvitÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Phetchaburià¾ªÃºØÃÕ

MakkasanÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

RatchapraropÃÒª»ÃÒÃ¶

Phaya Thai¾ÞÒä·

RamkhamhaengÃÒÁ¤ÓáË§

Chit LomªÔ´ÅÁ

Phloen Chità¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

LumphiniÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Khlong Toei¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv. CentreÈÙ¹Â�»ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Nana¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

RatchadamriÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Sala DaengÈÒÅÒá´§

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

SiamÊÂÒÁ

National Stadium

Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Punnawithi»Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Udom SukÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

Bang NaºÒ§¹Ò

BearingáºÃÔ่§

Phra Ram 9¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Thailand Cultural CenterÈÙ¹Â�ÇÑ²¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§ªÒµÔ

Ratchavithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Yaowarat Rd.

Main road

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

BTS (Silom Line)

MRT

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

River/Klong (canal)

Pier

Asiatique

Chatuchak Market

Vimanmek Mansion

Anantasamakhom Mansion

Khaosan Road

Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

Wat Po

Wat Arun

Victory Monument

Thailand Cultural Center

Yaowarat (China Town)

Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

Lumpini Park

Queen Sirikit Nation Convention Center

Siam Paragon Shopping Center

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

Key

overview

Navigate listing_MAY12_NEW.indd 29 4/27/12 6:50 PM

Navigate Y


GET MOVING

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

CANAL BOATS —While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-

wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tar-paulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream

from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day un-limited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budget-travel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non-air-con and air-con. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

INTERCITy BUSES—There are three main stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekamai and has buses departing to


A

1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 137 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 27

B

C

D

F

G

H

I

P

Q

R

S

K

L

M

N

E J

O T

21 28

Si L

om R

d.

¶¹¹Ê

ÕÅÁ

Rama 4 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Silom Soi 2

Silom Soi 4

Ratc

hada

mri

Rd. ¶

¹¹ÃÒ

ª´ÓÃ

Ô

Phay

a Th

ai R

d. ¶¹

¹¾Þ

Òä·

Soi R

uam

Rud

i «ÍÂ

Ã‹ÇÁ

Ä´Õ

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

Soi T

onso

n «ÍÂ

µŒ¹Ê

¹So

i Som

Khi

t «ÍÂ

ÊÁ¤Ô´

Soi L

ang

Suan

«ÍÂ

ËÅÑ§Ê

Ç¹Ch

it Lo

m R

d. ¶¹

¹ªÔ´Å

Á

Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ


Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ

Soi 5

3

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 63

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

63

Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 55

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

55

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 49

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

49

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 39

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

39

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 31

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

31

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 23

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

23

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 16

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

16

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 20

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

20

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 22

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

22

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 24

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

24

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 26

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

26

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 36

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

36

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 38

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

38

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 40

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

40

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 42

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

42

Sukh

umvi

t 51

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 19

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

19

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 15

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

15

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 13

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

13

Soi 1

1

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 11

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 3 «

ÍÂÊØ¢

ØÁÇÔ·

3So

i Suk

hum

vit 4

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 4

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 10

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

10

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 12

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

12

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 14

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

14

Sura

won

g Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊØÃÇ§

È�

Sath

orn

Nue

a Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊÒ·Ã

àË¹×Í

Sath

orn

Tai R

d. ¶

¹¹ÊÒ

·Ããµ

Œ

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢� Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ�

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Royal Bangkok Sports CLub

Democracy Monument Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ�»ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂBurapa Rd. ¶¹¹ºÙÃ¾Ò

Nana¹Ò¹Ò

Phrom Phong¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É�

Thong Lo·Í§ËÅ‹Í

EkkamaiàÍ¡ÁÑÂ

AsokÍâÈ¡




Henr

i Dun

ant R

d. ¶¹

¹ ÍÑ§

ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇ

µ�

SiamÊÂÒÁ

National StadiumÊ¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

RatchathewiÃÒªà·ÇÕ

Chit LomªÔ´ÅÁ


Si LomÊÕÅÁ


TO BEARING STATION

TO WONGWIAN STATION

TO HUA LAMPHONGSTATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

TO BEARING STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION TO BANG SUE STATION

TO NATIONALSTADIUM STATION

TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION



Queen Sirikit National Convention CenterÈÙ¹Â�»ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Siam DiscoveryÊÂÒÁ´ÔÊ¤Ñ¿àÇÍÃÕ่

Siam CenterÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ�

Siam ParagonÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃÒ¡Í¹

Wat Patum WanaramÇÑ´»·ØÁÇ¹ÒÃÒÁ

Central Worldà«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔÃ�Å´�

MBKÁÒºØÞ¤ÃÍ§

Pantip Plaza¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â�¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mallá¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ�

GeneralPolice

HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅµÓÃÇ¨

Royal Thai PoliceÊÓ¹Ñ¡§Ò¹µÓÃÇ¨áË‹§ªÒµÔ

ErawanBangkok

ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇÑ¹

Amarin PlazaËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã�

Digital Gateway´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ�

Central ChidlomËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà«็¹·ÃÑÅªÔ´ÅÁ

GaysornËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Bumrungrad HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅºÓÃØ§ÃÒÉ®Ã�

Terminal 21ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

RobinsonËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹

Times SquareËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

ä·Á� Êá¤ÇÃ�

Prommit HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¾ÃŒÍÁÁÔµÃ

Samitivej HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàÇª

Ekkamai Bus TerminalÊ¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Rain HillËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

àÃ¹ÎÔÅ ParklaneËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

¾ÒÃ�¤àÅ¹

J AvenueËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Seen Space Arena 10

Major CineplexSukhumvit

BenchasiriPark

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³ÐàºÞ¨ÊÔÃÔ

Benchakitti ParkÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

The EmporiumËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ´Ô àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

Chulalongkorn HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³�

Chamchuri SquareËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ�

Thaniya PlazaËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Silom Complex

St. Louis HospitalâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ�ËÅØÂÊ�

City Viva

O P PlaceOriental Pier·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ Central Pier

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¡ÃØ§à·¾

Wat ArunÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

Wat PhoÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

Wat Phra KaeoÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat RajaparditÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°�

Wat SuthatÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹�

Wat Chana SongkramÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

Wat RatchanaddaÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat SaketÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

The Old Siam PlazaËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´� ÊÂÒÁ

China WorldËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ�´

India EmporiumËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ

ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

Police StationÊ¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

Tha Tien Pier·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Memorial Bridge Pier·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸

Ratchawong Pier·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤�

Wang Lang Pier·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Phra Athit Pier·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ�

Tha Phrachan Pier·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã�

11

27

10

13

40

29

3344

24

14

45

2

18

39

8

28

3

30

36

5

194

21

34

22

25

20

32

1

4237

17

15

26

46

35

13 16

23

31

11

6

7

41

43

38

3

10

9

1

12

6

55

8,11

9

14

2

4

6

5

92

11

1

711

18

8

9

3

5

14

8

3 16

7

6

2

22

1

1517

19

12

9

411

10

13

4

Sukhumvit

z



Navigate Y

TOURIST INFORMATIONTOURISM AUThORITy OF ThAILANd (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand

and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500. MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed information. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip planning tools and downloadable handbooks.

For emergencies, contact the Tourist Police 24-hour call center (1155).

Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is located across the river at Thonburi on Borom-ratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail-able and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any mis-communication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

SkyTRAIN/UNdERgROUNd—The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to the Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning


A

1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 137 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 27

B

C

D

F

G

H

I

P

Q

R

S

K

L

M

N

E J

O T

21 28

Si L

om R

d.

¶¹¹Ê

ÕÅÁ


Silom Soi 2

Silom Soi 4

Ratc

hada

mri

Rd. ¶

¹¹ÃÒ

ª´ÓÃ

Ô

Phay

a Th

ai R

d. ¶¹

¹¾Þ

Òä·

Soi R

uam

Rud

i «ÍÂ

Ã‹ÇÁ

Ä´Õ


Soi T

onso

n «ÍÂ

µŒ¹Ê

¹So

i Som

Khi

t «ÍÂ

ÊÁ¤Ô´

Soi L

ang

Suan

«ÍÂ

ËÅÑ§Ê

Ç¹Ch

it Lo

m R

d. ¶¹

¹ªÔ´Å

Á

Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ


Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ

Soi 5

3

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 63

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

63


Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 55

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

55

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 49

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

49

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 39

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

39

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 31

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

31

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 23

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

23

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 16

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

16

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 20

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

20

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 22

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

22

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 24

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

24

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 26

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

26

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 36

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

36

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 38

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

38

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 40

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

40

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 42

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

42

Sukh

umvi

t 51

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 19

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

19

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 15

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

15

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 13

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

13

Soi 1

1

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 11

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 3 «

ÍÂÊØ¢

ØÁÇÔ·

3So

i Suk

hum

vit 4

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 4

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 10

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

10

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 12

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

12

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 14

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

14

Sura

won

g Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊØÃÇ§

È�

Sath

orn

Nue

a Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊÒ·Ã

àË¹×Í

Sath

orn

Tai R

d. ¶

¹¹ÊÒ

·Ããµ

Œ












Nana¹Ò¹Ò



EkkamaiàÍ¡ÁÑÂ

AsokÍâÈ¡




Henr

i Dun

ant R

d. ¶¹

¹ ÍÑ§

ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇ

µ�

SiamÊÂÒÁ



Chit LomªÔ´ÅÁ


Si LomÊÕÅÁ


TO BEARING STATION

TO WONGWIAN STATION


TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

TO BEARING STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION















GeneralPolice



ErawanBangkok









âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹








¾ÒÃ�¤àÅ¹


à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Seen Space Arena 10


BenchasiriPark







Silom Complex


City Viva






















11

27

10

13

40

29

3344

24

14

45

2

18

39

8

28

3

30

36

5

194

21

34

22

25

20

32

1

4237

17

15

26

46

35

13 16

23

31

11

6

7

41

43

38

3

10

9

1

12

6

55

8,11

9

14

2

4

6

5

92

11

1

711

18

8

9

3

5

14

8

3 16

7

6

2

22

1

1517

19

12

9

411

10

13

4

Silom

x


Navigate Y


North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

TUk-TUk—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, there is no guaran-tee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

LIST OF BANkS —Banking hours are gener-ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatna-kin.co.th), Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www.tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmb-bank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285-1555, www.uob.co.th).

ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven convenience stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.


A

1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 137 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 27

B

C

D

F

G

H

I

P

Q

R

S

K

L

M

N

E J

O T

21 28

Si L

om R

d.

¶¹¹Ê

ÕÅÁ


Silom Soi 2

Silom Soi 4

Ratc

hada

mri

Rd. ¶

¹¹ÃÒ

ª´ÓÃ

Ô

Phay

a Th

ai R

d. ¶¹

¹¾Þ

Òä·

Soi R

uam

Rud

i «ÍÂ

Ã‹ÇÁ

Ä´Õ


Soi T

onso

n «ÍÂ

µŒ¹Ê

¹So

i Som

Khi

t «ÍÂ

ÊÁ¤Ô´

Soi L

ang

Suan

«ÍÂ

ËÅÑ§Ê

Ç¹Ch

it Lo

m R

d. ¶¹

¹ªÔ´Å

Á

Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ


Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ

Soi 5

3

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 63

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

63


Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 55

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

55

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 49

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

49

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 39

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

39

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 31

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

31

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 23

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

23

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 16

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

16

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 20

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

20

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 22

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

22

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 24

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

24

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 26

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

26

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 36

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

36

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 38

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

38

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 40

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

40

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 42

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

42

Sukh

umvi

t 51

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 19

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

19

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 15

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

15

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 13

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

13

Soi 1

1

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 11

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 3 «

ÍÂÊØ¢

ØÁÇÔ·

3So

i Suk

hum

vit 4

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 4

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 10

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

10

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 12

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

12

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 14

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

14

Sura

won

g Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊØÃÇ§

È�

Sath

orn

Nue

a Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊÒ·Ã

àË¹×Í

Sath

orn

Tai R

d. ¶

¹¹ÊÒ

·Ããµ

Œ












Nana¹Ò¹Ò



EkkamaiàÍ¡ÁÑÂ

AsokÍâÈ¡




Henr

i Dun

ant R

d. ¶¹

¹ ÍÑ§

ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇ

µ�

SiamÊÂÒÁ



Chit LomªÔ´ÅÁ


Si LomÊÕÅÁ


TO BEARING STATION

TO WONGWIAN STATION


TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

TO BEARING STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION















GeneralPolice



ErawanBangkok









âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹








¾ÒÃ�¤àÅ¹


à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Seen Space Arena 10


BenchasiriPark







Silom Complex


City Viva






















11

27

10

13

40

29

3344

24

14

45

2

18

39

8

28

3

30

36

5

194

21

34

22

25

20

32

1

4237

17

15

26

46

35

13 16

23

31

11

6

7

41

43

38

3

10

9

1

12

6

55

8,11

9

14

2

4

6

5

92

11

1

711

18

8

9

3

5

14

8

3 16

7

6

2

22

1

1517

19

12

9

411

10

13

4

Siam

y



Navigate Y


A

1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 137 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 27

B

C

D

F

G

H

I

P

Q

R

S

K

L

M

N

E J

O T

21 28

Si L

om R

d.

¶¹¹Ê

ÕÅÁ


Silom Soi 2

Silom Soi 4

Ratc

hada

mri

Rd. ¶

¹¹ÃÒ

ª´ÓÃ

Ô

Phay

a Th

ai R

d. ¶¹

¹¾Þ

Òä·

Soi R

uam

Rud

i «ÍÂ

Ã‹ÇÁ

Ä´Õ


Soi T

onso

n «ÍÂ

µŒ¹Ê

¹So

i Som

Khi

t «ÍÂ

ÊÁ¤Ô´

Soi L

ang

Suan

«ÍÂ

ËÅÑ§Ê

Ç¹Ch

it Lo

m R

d. ¶¹

¹ªÔ´Å

Á

Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ


Witt

hayu

Rd.

¶¹¹Ç

Ô·ÂØ

Soi 5

3

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 63

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

63


Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 55

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

55

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 49

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

49

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 39

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

39

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 31

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

31

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 23

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

23

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 16

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

16

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 20

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

20

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 22

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

22

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 24

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

24

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 26

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

26

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 36

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

36

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 38

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

38

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 40

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

40

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 42

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

42

Sukh

umvi

t 51

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 19

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

19

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 15

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

15

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 13

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

13

Soi 1

1

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 11

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 3 «

ÍÂÊØ¢

ØÁÇÔ·

3So

i Suk

hum

vit 4

«ÍÂ

ÊØ¢ØÁÇ

Ô· 4

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 10

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

10

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 12

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

12

Soi S

ukhu

mvi

t 14

«ÍÂÊ

Ø¢ØÁÇÔ·

14

Sura

won

g Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊØÃÇ§

È�

Sath

orn

Nue

a Rd

. ¶¹¹

ÊÒ·Ã

àË¹×Í

Sath

orn

Tai R

d. ¶

¹¹ÊÒ

·Ããµ

Œ












Nana¹Ò¹Ò



EkkamaiàÍ¡ÁÑÂ

AsokÍâÈ¡




Henr

i Dun

ant R

d. ¶¹

¹ ÍÑ§

ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇ

µ�

SiamÊÂÒÁ



Chit LomªÔ´ÅÁ


Si LomÊÕÅÁ


TO BEARING STATION

TO WONGWIAN STATION


TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

TO BEARING STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION















GeneralPolice



ErawanBangkok









âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹








¾ÒÃ�¤àÅ¹


à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Seen Space Arena 10


BenchasiriPark







Silom Complex


City Viva






















11

27

10

13

40

29

3344

24

14

45

2

18

39

8

28

3

30

36

5

194

21

34

22

25

20

32

1

4237

17

15

26

46

35

13 16

23

31

11

6

7

41

43

38

3

10

9

1

12

6

55

8,11

9

14

2

4

6

5

92

11

1

711

18

8

9

3

5

14

8

3 16

7

6

2

22

1

1517

19

12

9

411

10

13

4

rattanakoSin

dining1. 11 Gallery Z B12. 4 Garcons Z B63. Bacco Z C64. Bo.Lan Z D55. Bonjour Z C66. Boqueria Y N217.Cafe Claire Y N208. Curries and More by Baan Kanitha Z C69. D’Sens X F1010. Dine in the Dark X H1311. Drinking Tea, Eating rice Y N2112. Eat Me X G1113. Erawan tea room Y N1814. Fuzio Z B715. Gaggan Y O1916. Gianni Ristorante Y N2017. Grossi Trattoria Y M1918. Harvey Z B619. Indus Z E520. Isao Z C4 21. Khun Churn Z D722. Kuppa Z D323. La Monita Taqueria. Y M2124. Le Normandie X J1125. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai Z D326. Medici Y N1927. Nahm X G1328. Near Equal Z C529. Niu’s X I1030. Phuket Town Z C6

31. Reflexions Y N2132. Rosabieng Z B133. Ruen Urai X G834. Seafood Bar Z D335. Shintaro Y N1836. Soul Food Mahanakorn Z C637. Sra Bua Y L1738. Supatra Riverside W P2639. Surface Z B640. Taling Pling X I1141. The Deck W Q2342. Thompson Bar & Restaurant Y L15 43. Venice Vaniche W P2644. Water Library Z B645. Xuan mai Z A646. Zuma Y N18

Nightlife1. Bed Z A12. Clouds Z B63. Hyde & Seek Y M214. Fat Gutz Z B65. Iron Fairies Z B66. Mellow Z A67. Oskar Z A18. Q Bar Z A19. The St Regis Bar Y N1810. Wine Republic Z A611. WTF Z C512. Zaks Z A1

health & Wellness1. Body Tune X G10 2. Elemis Spa Y N183. Heath Land X G134. i.sawan Y N185. Let’s Relax Z B36. Mulberry Spa Z B37. Oasis Spa Z C58. Panpuri Organic Spa Y M189. S Medical Spa Y L2010. So SPA X F12 11. Spa Botanica X G1312. Thann Sanctuary Spa Y M1813. The Oriental Spa X J1114. Wat Po W Q24

ShoppingAmarin Plaza Y M18 Central Chidlom Y M19CentralWorld Y M18Erawan Bangkok Y M18Gaysorn Y M18MBK Center Y M16OP Place X J11Pantip Plaza Y K17Platinum Fashion Mall Y K18Siam Center Y M17Siam Discovery Center Y M16Siam Paragon Y M17Terminal 21 Z B3The Emporium Z C4

Art & Attractions1. 100 Tonson Gallery Y N202. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) Y M163. Gossip Gallery X I104. Grand Palace W Q255. H Gallery X H116. Jim Thompson Art Center & House Y L157. Kamthieng House Z B38. Kathmandu Photo Gallery X I119. Museum Siam W Q2310. National Gallery W Q2711. National Museum W Q2712. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall W S2613. Royal Barge Museum W P2714. Serindia Gallery X J1115. Siam Ocean World Y M1716. Silom Galleria X I1017. Sombat Permpoon Gallery X L2118. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) Z C419. The Queen’s Gallery W S2720. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) W P2221. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) W Q2522. White Space Gallery Y M16

keyDining

Nightlife

Spa/Wellness

Shopping

Hospital

Pier

Templew


Y30 Things we LOve about Thailand

34 WHERE tHailand I MAY 2012

1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai.

2 Discovering Michelin-Star-worthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

4 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

7 Drinking a cocktail while admiring Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557/-9. www.longtablebangkok.com).

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy beach at Hua Hin, try Kite Boarding Asia (www.kiteboardingasia.com).

9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques.

!0 Discovering the natural delights of Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

!3 Dining on freshly caught crab and mackerel at the beachfront seafood restaurant Platoo (241/44 Ruamchit Rd., 032-451-355. www.platoorestaurant.com) in Hua Hin.

!4 Offering alms to Thai and Mon monks in the morning mist of Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi (see page 10).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!6 Hunting for antiques along Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www.muaythailumpini.com).

!8 Savoring a glass of vintage Moët & Chandon Champagne at The St. Regis Bar (12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777).

!9 Getting up early to experience the floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

@1 Escaping the stresses of modern living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (Try www.bia.or.th).

@2 Spending a whole day of pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

@3 Being the first to see the sunrise from Thailand’s easternmost point at Pha Them in Ubon Ratchathani.

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting course at the Doi Chaang (www.doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the one at Trader Vic’s by the river.

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful and challenging Championship level course at Mission Hills Phuket (www.missionhillsphuket.com).

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www.elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www.sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

6 !8

@o!9

!0

@5

Sipping Mariage Freres tea at the Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge (www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok).

Rubbing shoulders with the city’s chefs and sampling local food at Or Tor Kor Market in Bangkok

30things_MAY12.indd 34 4/26/12 6:56 PM

P.35 OP May2012.indd 1 4/26/12 8:21 PM

P.36 Asiatique_May2012.indd 1 4/26/12 8:16 PM

where® thailand may 2012

Documents