wildside magazine winter 2010

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN

ESSENTIAL FORESTS

PRO-TIPS BIRDPHOTOGRAPHY

HI-TEC WINNERS

WILDSIDEE C O T R A V E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R V A T I O N

T H E M A G A Z I N E T H A T T A K E S Y O U T H E R E

WILDCOAST BEACH BREAK

KICK BACK IN THE

BERG

WINTER R21.95

NAMBITI LUXURY

NIKON PHOTOCOMPETITION

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Wildside welcomes guests from around the world to our beautiful country and wishes that each and every person has a memorable stay and that they go back to their home countries as ambassadors for South Africa. We also hope that our visitors find time to experience our country’s biodiversity, be it in the mountains, the bush or at the coast. This edition shows a spread of options and, for South Africans who want to escape during the holidays, there are lots of places offering specials.

Also in this edition is the annual corporate social investment feature where we pay tribute to sustainable projects being undertaken by corporate companies which significantly contrib-ute to directly to transforming and improving people’s lives.

We have published the names of the exciting Hi-Tec competition in this edition, and the first round of winners in the Wildside Nikon photographic competition.

Nkosi sikelela iAfrica

WILDSIDEVol 10 No 2 of 4 2010Winter Edition

EDITORRod MacLeod – Cell: 082 782 3150

E-mail:[email protected]

MANAGING EDITORJennifer Crawford – Cell: 082 329 1739

E-mail: [email protected]

EDITORIAL All requests, submissions, including letters:

[email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES Tora Roberts – Tel: 031 767 1512 Cell: 082 376 9115 – Fax: 086 6711 505 E-mail: [email protected]

Robyn Shillaw-Botha – Tel: 021 462 4292 Cell: 082 795 5995 / 083 629 8818 E-mail: [email protected]

PRODUCTIONEditorial OfficesWildside Publishing PO Box 2292, Prestondale, 4021KZN

SUBSCRIPTIONSwww.wildsidesa.co.za

PUBLISHERS Wildside Publishing cc

PRINTERS CTP, Cape Town

DISTRIBUTION RNA

Cover image: Peter Bendheim's image captures the essence of kicking back in the southern Drakensberg resort of Penwarn.

The Wildside magazine, logo, Wildside Travel and brand ownership rests with Wildside Publishing cc. Copyrights for material produced in this magazine belong to Wildside Publishing. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced by any means without the written consent of the publishers. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Publishers nor of KZN Wildlife. Readers who follow advice, expressed or implied, on activities and accommodation do so at their own risk. All competition winners will be anounced in Wildside only. Winners are requested to contact the managing editor to claim their prize.

www.wildsidesa.co.zaWILDSIDE 2of4 2010 1

Rod MacLeodRod applies his professional photographer’s eye to the Nambiti Game Reserve and Igudlane articles. He is also responsible for the creative direction of the magazine.

Perspectives

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Jennifer CrawfordJennifer visited a resort on the Wild Coast and came back with an unintended story, and for this edition also visited the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg.

Catherine BurmesterCatherine has worked on international reptile documentaries and articles, working alongside an herpetologist for 10 years which resulted in her fascination and passion for reptiles and all creatures. Her article on her visit to the Central ‘Berg and her hike is as inspirational as her photographs.

Peter BendheimPeter Bendheim is a photographer and writer employed in the travel and tourism industry. His photographs have featured in publications such as National Geographic Traveller and his work is part of the permanent collection of the Durban Art Gallery. For this edition he visited Penwarn.

Lisa KohlerRegular Wildside writer Lisa brings insight to her stories and unpacks the Nambiti Game Reserve lodges with as much charm as she does information, while Igudlane nearby was also on her assignment schedule for this edition.

Eddie CrawfordPart time Wildside photographer Eddie Crawford is a Land Surveyor for the greater part of his time, but is a fervent outdoors individual giving him the opportunity to capture a variety of images.

David MuriheadWitty, seriously funny, topical and always linked to Wildside’s ethos, David, a published author, produces yet another outstanding piece for his regular column in Wildside.

Wildside would like to wish Bafana Bafana all the best for the World Cup – "Show us the thunder – Laduma (la-dooooooooo-mah)."

Frugality and High Performance Optics are words seldom found in the same sentence…

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Frugality and High Performance Optics are words seldom found in the same sentence…

Phone Whysalls: 0861 CAMERA • Head Office 031 5663566 • Brickhill 031 3371431 • Pavilion 031 2650245 • Ballito 032 9462512

Vortex Binoculars Lifetime Warrantee.Full multi coated optics working to increase light transmission throughout the optical system.Great value for any outdoor experience.Rugged roof prism binoculars.Waterproof, dustproof, and internally fogproof design features.An internal focusing mechanism with O rings at all open points and nitrogen purging.

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Al l reservat ions regard ing

accommodation or wilderness

trails should be made through

the Head Office of Ezemvelo

KZN Wildlife in Pietermaritzburg.

Should you have any enquiries,

please contact our Reservations

office on +27(0) 33 845 1000

Alternativly, detailed information

is available on our website, be

advised that the information on

this page is subject to change.

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1. THENDELE2. GIANT’S CASTLE3. DIDIMA4. HILLTOP5. MPILA6. NTSHONDWE7. MIDMAR8. MANTUMA

9. SODWANA10. ST LUCIA ESTUARY11. CAPE VIDAL12. UMLALAZI13. KOSI BAY14. AMATIGULU15. ORIBI GORGE16. INJISUTHI17. MONKS COWL18. KAMBERG19. LOTHENI20. COBHAM21. GARDEN CASTLE22. HIGHMOOR23. RUGGED GLEN24. MOUNT CURRIE25. NDUMO26. WEENEN27. SPIOENKOP28. PHONGOLO29. VERNON CROOKES30. CHARTERS CREEK31. FALSE BAY PARK32. CHELMSFORD33. WAGENDRIFT

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RESERVATIONS TEL: +27 (0) 33 845 1000 FAX +27 (0) 33 845 1001 or bookings@kznwildl i fe.com

InformationFor details visit our websitewww.kznwildlife.com

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Loyalty Clubs Tel +27 (0) 33 8451011/13 Fax 086 5058892

12 BIG BERG EDITIONThe uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is a fantastic playground waiting for you to explore it. There are places where it is about nothing more than chilling out, to others places offering hectic hikes. We have covered both of these options and a few in-between for you in this special ‘Berg feature.

12 NORTHERN BERGThis region of the ‘Berg is considered to be quieter, but it is also where you can enjoy an adventurous hike to the top of the Amphitheatre while the Royal Natal National Park offers a range of excellent short walks and long hikes.

20 CENTRAL BERGThere is much to do here in the Central Berg and it is where you will also find numerous art and craft shops, places to visit and a variety of activities. There is also great hiking here as this feature shows.

26 DRAKENSBERG FAVOURITESHave a look at this spread of exciting things to do when you stay in the ‘Berg, as well as see loads of accommodation options.

30 MIDLAND'S PENWARNFeatured on the cover, Penwarn is a place that simply induces relaxation in a tranquil part of the ‘Berg.

Above: Thanda, the unspoilt wildness of the Eastern Cape. Below left: Crystal Falls, Champagne valley, central Drakensberg.

OVERALL PRIZE: One winner to recieve R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a 3 night stay for 2 people at Esiweni Lodge worth R12 870.

QUARTERLY PRIZES: Enter up to 3 pictures per quarter. Winners chosen per quarter will each receive a pair of Action 8x40 Nikon binoculars valued at R1000. Prizes may not be exchanged for cash.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.za (Terms and conditions apply)

ENTER THE WILDSIDE NIKON 2010 PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION

PG10

40 WAVECRESTWe couldn’t just write about mountains as much as we love them, and thought that this special spot on the Wild Coast is a perfect escape at the beach. Not only is the environment as beautiful as its history is fascinating, but the accommodation is affordable too.

50 NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVEYou’d never think that there was a Big-5 game reserve near Ladysmith now would you? There are nine lodges in this reserve and Wildside visited two of these – Esiweni Lodge and Nambiti Plains. They are luxurious, with excellent service and superb places to stay while discovering the biodiversity of the reserve.

58 IGUDLANE LODGEThis is a great lodge for parents with children as it provides a safe nature experience for them while parents get to relax too.

64 WILD GADGETSThis exciting section brings you interesting and useful items and information to get you there or use while you are there. If you have any special gadget you think is great then let us know.

COMPETITIONS AND READER OFFERS

10 Wildside Nikon 2010 Photographic Competition

4 Wildside Hi-Tec Winners

17 Montusi Reader Offer

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

The muddy-yellow Sundays river cuts its way through the Nambiti Private Game Reserve.

My Story – HI-TEC WinnersMy Story is the page for what is really your story. Wildside invites you to share your experiences. It can be about a family trip to the bush, or a lone adventure to an island, a hike with friends, a special sighting, or about what you think of hunting, of places you stayed at, or good and perhaps not such good value in travel. It is after all, your story. Email your story to – [email protected]

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010 6

Claire CummingTwo pairs of Hi-Tec’s would take my blind friend and I on a sensory adventure through the Blyde River Canyon in the Eastern Transvaal, to taste the pristine water and sweet local naartjies, to hear the stirring cry of the Fish Eagle and the bark of a startled bushbuck, to feel the spray from the Kadishi Waterfall and to learn the history of the Mpumalanga people under the Three Rondawels, because, after all, it’s not all about me.

J Duncan GouldI’d like to walk up endless steps made of basalt slabs, along paths shared with yak caravans and past red and white and yellow prayer flags. I’d trek up through the mist and drizzle to where the sun shines again, this time on last winter’s snow. In the hut at night my shoes stay between me and the wall, laces tied to my pack. The mountains are austere, almost hostile; like snow-dusted cathedrals. My feet are warm now, my footing secure as I stamp in a new path on snow-covered skree.

Under a cobalt sky man-made colours glare out - Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal; and my Hi-Tec boots got me here.

Cobus TheronAs the lightning crashes and the rain pellets down the eland start running up the ridge in the direction of Redi Peak, Lotheni. They have not seen me and I scramble up a steep rocky section, hoping for a closer look. The shale is loose under my feet but like the hoofed creatures, each step is surefooted. I reach

the top of the hill just ahead of the antelopes they pierce the horizon with their horns. The view of these beasts silhouetted against the Drakensberg and the lightning lit clouds makes my blood rush. “Sir, Sir will you be taking

these Hi-Tec’s?” I snap back to reality and look at the boots

in my hand. Wow! The adventure has already begun.

Simone ScraseMy Hi-Tec boots have been carrying me along hiking trails for 20 years. Bought in 1989, they fitted like a sock from the first day and I was able to do the Blyde River Canyon five day hiking trail immediately without any discomfort. However, it was a trip to the Okavango Delta last year that laid my Hi-Tec boots to rest. After hiking for four days, eight hours a day, through mud, bushveld, soft sand and waterways, my boots gave way. I’ll replace my Hi-Tec boots with a new Hi-Tec pair and ensure another 20 years of comfortable, trouble-free hiking.

Ryan ParkerI love to walk rivers. River walking is one of the best ways to see the true nature of those elongated, meandering beasts as they carve their niche in often hard, but mostly beautiful country. The best river walk I experienced was in Zion National Park in Utah, USA, where the river has hacked its way into a beautiful gorge. The rock

walls are breathtaking. Pioneers named the peaks after the patriarchs of the bible, that’s how permanent they are. To walk these rivers, Hi-Tec is the only option. Rugged, durable, comfortable and just Hi-Tec.

Melissa KellyI want to take the Hi-Tec to the top of Table Mountain. I want to hike the back of the mountain with my boyfriend as we love the outdoors and lived in Durban all our lives until a year ago when we moved to Cape Town, and we haven’t been up the mountain. We want to walk up for the first time taking in all the beautiful things and challenge ourselves with this outdoor adventure, as we both work hard and in an office for long days.

Mavis MorrisI have had the privilege of taking my Hi-Tec ladies Ascent boots up to the four highest peaks in southern Africa (south of Kilimanjaro) Thaba Ntlanyana, (3490m) (Lesotho) Mafadi, Champagne Castle and Injasuthi Dome. My Hi-Tec’s were fantastic and I never had a single blister or sore feet. I would like to take a new pair of Hi-Tec’s on the Grand Traverse of the ‘Berg - a 12 day traverse from the Amphitheatre to Bushmans Neck. My first choice would be Hi-Tec, for comfort, waterproof quality and durability.

Fran WillmoreThe most exciting place I can imagine taking my Hi-Tec V-Lite Altitude Ultras is on one of the 10 best hikes in the world, the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island Canada where one is told “assume all surfaces are wet”! I would be assured of having dry feet even though I would be walking through mud almost certainly a good deal of the hike, crossing beaches at low tide when water is at its lowest and almost certainly hiking in rain at some stage of the gruelling 75km hike.

Hi-Tec Marketing Manager Shayne Vervoort had the difficult task of selecting winners from the large number of excellent entries in the Wildside Hi-Tec Tell and Win competition. “Hi-Tec is a brand about experiencing the outdoors that we all love so much. We felt that the entries below encapsulated those experiences best. Each of these entries receives a pair of V-lite Altitude Ultra WPi shoes to go and experience the outdoors,” said Shayne.

Wildside invited readers to tell us about the most exciting destination to take their Hi-Tec foot wear – here are the winning

entries.

I AM THE NIKON D5000. I perfectly capture the moment and the movement in high definition video with sound. I am the best of both worlds. www.nikon.co.za

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There is so much to do just an hour or so out of town from Durban, be it for a little romantic breakaway, quality time with a friend or family, or to do something with your children. Here’s some different things to do and places to stay.

HEAD FOR THE SOUTH COAST

STAY AT …EMERALD COVE

On the shores of the warm Indian Ocean Emerald Cove is the perfect place to enjoy the pleasures of a beach holiday and explore South Coast of KZN - one of the finest beach destinations with year round warm sunny days and warm waters even in winter.

St Michael’s beach, located between Shelly Beach and Margate, is a much loved destination offering safe swimming with shark nets and life guards on duty, golden sands, paddle boats on a lagoon, rock pools and a lawned area with a kiddie’s pool.

St Mikes is a world class surfing destination which hosts many exciting competitions. Deep sea fishing boats launch just a kilometre away. The Saints Walk is a grassed path along the coastline offering beautiful scenery and vantage points for whale and dolphin watching. Emerald Cove - Beachfront self - catering thatched holiday chalets.

Tel:

039 3155284 Email: [email protected] www.emeraldcove.co.za

DRINK THE BEST COFFEE IN SOUTH AFRICA AT…BEAVER CREEK

Visitors to the Estate can sample and purchase a range of freshly roasted Beaver Creek and other imported coffees of origin.

Join us for the ‘Crop to Cup’ tour on everyday at 12.00 pm. The Estate Café serves delicious light meals, speciality cakes and a range of freshly roasted coffee all day. If you love coffee, a visit to Beaver Creek Coffee Estate is an experience not to be missed. Situated on Izingolweni Road Port Edward KwaZulu-Natal.Tel: 039 311 2315 / 039 311 2347 Email [email protected] or [email protected] www.beavercreek.co.za

WATCH A SHOW, BE ENTHRALLED AT…RIVERBEND CROCODILE FARM

Riverbend Crocodile Farm is a tourist landmark situated at Southbroom just south of Margate and is home to hundreds of Nile crocodiles in beautifully landscaped pools and some of the most venomous and beautiful snakes.

Witness the feeding frenzy of hundreds of hungry

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN crocodiles, crocodile

hatching and snake demonstrations. This farm produces eight thousand crocodile hatchlings each year. The Crocodile Cafe is a licensed restaurant on the farm and there is also a curio and craft shop, art gallery and wine cellar. The annual South Coast Spring Wine Festival and Art Exhibition is hosted by Riverbend Art and Wine in September each year.Open from 9am to 4:30pm daily, phone for feeding times. Tel: 039 3166204 www.crocodilecrazy.co.za

GO NORTH

WALK AND PICNIC AT…DLINZA

Experience Eshowe’s unique Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk, 90 minutes from Durban, walk through the magnificent indigenous forest canopy then relax on the 20m high viewing tower.

Explore two easily-walked trails amongst ancient vines, forest giants, and a variety of birds and butterflies, seeking the rare Spotted Ground Thrush and blue duiker. The visitor centre has interesting environmental displays, refreshments, wheelchair-friendly ablutions, curio shop, picnic areas and a new bird hide.Tel: 035 474 4029 Email:[email protected] www.birdingroutes.co.za

Tel: (031) 566 0400 I www.shark.co.za FOLLOW THE SIGNS ON UMHLANGA ROCKS DRIVE,

PAST UMHLANGA HOSPITAL

SHOWTIMES WITH SHARK DISSECTIONS 09h00 and 14h00 Tue to Thu and 14h00 on Sun. Tel: (031) 566 0435

CURIO SHOP AND SHARK MUSEUM For unusual gifts and life-like replicas of marine life. Open Mon to Fri 08h00 to 16h00 and Sun from 13h00 to 16h00.

BOAT TRIPS Venture out to sea to watch our crew at work servicing the shark safety gear off Durban’s Golden Mile. Boat trips lasting ± two hours leave Wilson’s Wharf at 06h30. Opportunistic viewing of marine life, including seabirds. Bookings - 082 403 9206.

NO SHOWS ON RECOGNISED PUBLIC HOLIDAYSTERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY

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South Africa’s first aerial walkway in theindigenous forest canopy amongst birds,butterflies & forest animals, and enjoy a

20m high observation tower.

Zulu

land Birding Route

Tel: (035) 474 4029www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk

email: [email protected]

Experience . . .

ON YOUR DOOR STEP

EDUTAINMENT AND BOAT TRIP WITH… KZN SHARKS BOARD

Just 20 km north of Durban, is the vibrant area of Umhlanga

Rocks and perched on top of the hill overlooking the beautiful coastal vista, is the KwaZulu-Natal Sharks Board, whose primary concern is the protection of bathers against shark attack and to promote beach tourism.

Incredible underwater footage of sharks and other marine life form part of an edutainment audio-visual presentation followed by a shark dissection. Shark senses, feeding, reproduction – learn more about it during our public shows.

An exciting early morning two hour boat trip for the more adventurous – have a bird’s eye view of the nets being checked off Durban’s beaches and you may be fortunate enough to see a shark being tagged and released alive. Wildlife abounds offshore above and below the water and viewing enthrals the passengers during their time at sea.Tel: 031-566-0400 Fax: 031-566-0499 www.shark.co.za

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN

Albert Froneman is a professional bird photographer sponsored by Nikon South Africa. He is based in Johannesburg where together with Chris van Rooyen they run a successful photo safari company. Albert travels widely in southern Africa to photograph birds and wildlife. His favourite camera and lens is the highly acclaimed Nikon D3s and the 500mm f/4G ED VR AF-S NIKKOR lens.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHYAlbert Froneman PROFESSIONAL tips onPRO TIPS

For bird photography size matters so I always recommend using a Nikon super telephoto lens – a 300mm is the minimum but preferably use a 500mm or 600mm lens.

Teleconverters are useful tools to increase the focal length of your lens – I almost always have my Nikon TC-14E II Teleconverter attached when I photograph small birds.

For birds in flight always maintain a high shutter speed of at least a 1/2000th of a second – nowadays with the superb high ISO noise capabilities of the Nikon D3s this is relatively easy.

Fill-in flash is an indispensable tool for a bird photographer – it can be very effective to add some sparkle to a dull cloudy day or even to lighten harsh shadows in bright light.

Get to know the birds that you are photographing, study their behaviour and be prepared to spend time with them in the field, with a bit of luck and lots of patience you will be rewarded with some spectacular images!

Bird photography is both exhilarating and extremely rewarding. The challenge to capture a perfect image of a bird in flight inspires and motivates many nature photographers. Our feathered friends can be difficult subjects to photograph but once you are properly equipped with a big telephoto lens and a fast accurate autofocus camera it gets quite a bit easier. Here are a few tips that will help you to improve your bird photography:

What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out, with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011

First Quarter Winner – Brendon Cremer : Jackal Buzzard Landing in the Drakensberg.

Enter to stand a chance to win R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a three night stay for two valued at R12 870 at the prestigious Esiweni Lodge in Nambiti Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal.

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT

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WILDSIDE


First Runner up – Steve Pilbrough: Twirly Whirlys.

Third Runner up – Helena Faasen: Chameleon display – this image of a flap-necked chameleon was taken in Botswana.

Second Runner up – Ross Couper: Night Watch.

OVERALL PRIZE: One winner to recieve R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a 3 night stay for 2 people at Esiweni Lodge worth R12 870.

QUARTERLY PRIZES: Enter up to 3 pictures per quarter. Winners chosen per quarter will each receive a pair of Action 8x40 Nikon binoculars valued at R1000. Prizes may not be exchanged for cash.

TERMS: Any scene, any subject, as long as its taken on African soil or any of her exotic neighbouring islands. Open to South African citizens only. Terms and conditions apply.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.zaAt the heart of the Image

Freelance photographer and owner of Africa Imagery, a stock photo library, Roger de la Harpe has a passion for natural history, wild places and different cultures and his work on these subjects has featured in most notably BBC Wildlife and National Geographic. Roger reaches for the Nikon D3 x and 200 – 400mm lens for wildlife photography and the 14 – 24mm and 24 – 70mm lenses for scenic and travel images.

THE COMPETITION JUDGE

www.esiweni.co.za

SECRETS OF THE DRAKENSBERGJennifer Crawford

From the top of the Amphitheatre, cascading down five sheer drops, forming the second highest waterfall in the world, the Tugela Falls becomes the mighty Tugela River – a vital fresh water source for South Africa. Photograph by Rod MacLeod.


Truly it may be said that the outside of a mountain is good for the inside of a man.”

~ George Wherry.1896

The highest mountain range in South Africa, the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg, stretches up to the heavens in greatness, and the enormity gives you a view from afar – an ever changing view which depends on the antics of the weather coupled with the

playfulness of the light. But, it is only when you get closer that you’re able to discover her secrets and know her ways.

Mountains are associated with things miraculous, with holiness, and divineness beyond us. Size alone provides perspective and gazing up at the Amphitheatre from the Royal Natal National Park is a stark reminder of how small and puny we are. The main feature is a

rock wall approximately five km in length which has precipitous cliffs rising 1220m along its length and is widely regarded as having one of the most impressive cliff faces on earth. Relevance and things deemed important in day to day life get distorted as you consider the

mountains and her permanence. Thankfully, man can’t change the mountains. God moves mountains and they say faith can too.

The view of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg’s world renowned Amphitheatre taken across the fishing dam at the Royal Natal National Park where there is a variety of excellent and well priced

accommodation. Photographs by Eddie Crawford.

NORTHERN BERG

In terms of getting close to the mountains, there is no closer view, in fact let’s call it front row, or golden circle tickets, when you stay at the gorgeous stone cottage at Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Royal Natal National Park. It’s called the Thendele Lodge and is situated in the lower Thendele Camp. Here, you have nobody in front of you, only unrivalled cinematic views of the dramatic, timeless, and iconic Amphitheatre.

Apparently there is a view of the Amphitheatre from every bungalow, but I was so absorbed by this beautiful cot-tage and its perfect view that I just didn’t get around to checking out any of the 26 chalets that accommodate either two or four people each. Nor did I go poking my nose around the other two six-bed cottages.

The Thendele Lodge is hidden away from the main camp, offers privacy and is a perfect setting for a group, be it fam-ily or friends, to escape to, together. It’s a sumptuous well furnished lodge with

all the facilities you need and perhaps even some you don’t need like satellite television. There are three en-suite bed-rooms, the master bedroom being mas-sive, a large open plan lounge and dining room, a nook next to the fireplace, a bar and outside braai and a well equipped kitchen. Not to worry much about the kitchen because this lodge, like the two cottages, each have their own cook who will prepare meals from the provisions you supply.

The architecture lends itself to the setting with floor to ceiling expanses of glass windows, while the low slung flat garden roof is in Frank Lloyd Wright style. It is difficult to photograph and fantastic to stay in.

Getting back to the Berg's secrets. You need to walk, hike, or climb into the mountains to even have a chance of finding out about their mysteries and there are a good many hikes from the Thendele Camp ranging from an hour to a full day. The names alone of these hikes hint to enchanting discoveries… Fairy Glen, Sunday Falls, Cascades, Mudslide, Surprise Ridge and Cannibal Cave.

There is also the Thukela Gorge walk, one that has eluded me for several years, always for a different reason: menacing

weather, lack of time, commitments to other walks. Unfortunately, this walk successfully eluded me once again. The landscape was blackened from a control-led burn, the river was dry, there was no glittering water tumbling over the lip and onto the face of the Amphitheatre, cascading down five sheer drops, form-ing the second highest waterfall in the world and becoming the mighty Tugela River. No, none of that would be seen and even though it is a gentle gradient, this gorge walk is long, a 14km round trip which would take around six hours at a leisurely pace.

Mystery of the Amphitheatre

The Amphitheatre is not a singular experience, it is the type of mountain that you go back to time and again, encountering it from different angles and places and during different times in your life. Having hiked to the top of the Amphitheatre previously when I had looked down onto the Thendele Camp (which looked like mini-town), I now wanted to view the Amphitheatre from the bottom. I especially wanted to view it from the gorge, to see if it’s true that you can see the waterfall in its entirety from here. But, I would not find out as there was no water.

“The exclusive Thendele Lodge is spacious and hidden away from the main camp giving you privacy while at the same time offering unrivalled views of the Amphitheatre.”


Most of the routes have cell phone coverage, but once you are in the gorge itself, you have no cell phone coverage, so it’s said. I didn’t have a chance to get cut off and disconnected, unfortunately.

The classic photographs of the Amphitheatre are taken from the valley floor with the river and rocks in the fore-ground - this is more than 1 800m below the highest point of the Amphitheatre. It may be the best photographic oppor-tunity, but one of the best experiences is to climb to the top when the grandeur is felt and where the views are spectacular. However, when you are finally on the top, and look for the source of the potent Tugela River, the Mont Aux Sources, you find that it is but a gentle, almost chivalrous, seeping of water, probably a puddle at the moment.

It is this humbleness and greatness

mixed into a concoction of impulsive weather without pattern, a little eerie silence, a loneliness and a loveliness that makes it the closest you can get to heaven when on earth.

A Very Real Secret That Few Know About

I had stared at the Amphitheatre from below thinking about what secrets I could have uncovered had I done the gorge walk. I settled for a short hike to see Bushman paintings also known as San rock art expecting history, but not much in the way of secrets.

The walk was an hour and a half round trip in the Sigubudu Valley with a community guide who was highly knowledgeable. He showed us how these paintings have been damaged by people who have splashed water on them to get

a better photograph, and another who had tried to chip the image out from the soft sandstone. We were duly horrified and grateful that one could now only view this San rock art with a guide.

“Are these the only Bushman paint-ings here?” we asked.

“Not exactly. There are more here but their location is kept secret because they are in good condition and it’s important to keep them like this. The researchers were here just last week to check on them.”

“What if people find them?” we won-dered.

“You can’t find all of the secrets of the mountains.” he said.

There are numerous hikes to choose from at Royal Natal National Park be it from an hour to day long hikes while one of the most interesting short hikes is to view the San rock art with a community guide in the Park. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife has a diverse range of accommodation.


The northern Drakensberg has maintained its character as a quieter part of the ‘Berg, further influenced by the people in this region who run fine establishments, such as Montusi. Owner-run by Jean and Anthony Carte, Montusi offers a luxurious stay in the mountains, devoid of pretentiousness, where there is an atmosphere of tranquility.

As you slip through the small towns of Winterton, and then Bergville, if travel-ling from Durban, you finally feel you’re in the ‘Berg – that big mountain coun-tryside. It’s a further 30km to Montusi from Bergville, so you undoubtedly get a sense of remoteness even though it is easily accessible.

We were trying to beat the setting sun on our way there as there were hopes to throw a fly before the sky darkened, but the sun is never behind schedule, not even here where the pace seems slower. However, as Jean mentioned, Montusi does “keep the sun a little longer in winter” than other establishments in the afternoon and being ‘set back’ also means Montusi enjoys full and unin-

terrupted views of the Amphitheatre escarpment.

We arrived on a cool evening in win-ter, nowhere nearly as cold as we had anticipated, and headed for our garden suite with its view of the Amphitheatre. All of the suites have this vast view of the Amphitheatre and all are spacious, well appointed, with those indulgent extras like opulent percale linen, a gas operated fireplace, underfloor heating…

The food is just as indulgent so it came as no surprise that Montusi has been awarded a Chef’s Hat in the prestigious Portfolio Collection. With several course meals, fortunately Montusi provides daily guided morning walks on the 1000 hectare estate.

Hiking, biking and fly-fishing

There are numerous hikes in the area and popular destinations are the top of Montusi Mountain, Bushman Cave, and Waterfall Cave. The Royal Natal National Park is 15km away and Montusi can arrange a hike to the top of the Amphitheatre.

Fly-fishing is a favourite past-time at

Montusi which has two dams stocked with trout. Fishing rods can be hired and flies are for sale. This ‘catch and release’ activity is reserved for lodge residents. Guests have 45km of moun-tain bike trails ranging from gentle 4 x 4 trails to technical single track and its worthwhile bringing your own moun-tain bike to Montusi.

The atmosphere of an upmarket lodge with a relaxed air comes from the expe-rienced owners. Jean and Anthony Carte are of The Cavern fame so to speak where they spent 25 years. Anthony’s brother, Peter Carte, owns The Cavern and at one stage the brothers shared ownership of both places.

Montusi has attracted international guests predominantly from Germany, Holland and the United Kingdom. This was by design and no accident as 10 years ago when Montusi set out to find a market, they knew the existing establish-ments in the region “the three big C’s” as Jean quips, referring to the Cavern, Cathedral Peak and Champagne Castle, were excellent and decided to go after the international market. Nonetheless about 30% of Montusi’s market is made up of South Africans who enjoy the quiet setting.

Montusi Magic

Northern Drakensberg


Montusi is not only impeccable in terms of maintenance, but one could say this too of their larger estate as Anthony has worked tirelessly to eradicate invader plants, and has preserved and planted – changing a wattle wasteland into a reha-bilitated conservation area. Indigenous trees and manmade forests flourish and the birdlife which was once non-exist-ent, is abundant. This ethic has resulted in the return of the mountain reedbuck, bushbuck and the elusive eland.

The name Montusi, like many of the mountain names, is an anglicized version of Mtusi meaning, in the shadow. As we left this peaceful haven, before it was ‘in the shadow’ entirely, our only thoughts were that we wanted to stay longer and we suspect that you’ll think this too.

ALL OUT ADVENTURES

Several years ago Wildside visited All Out Adventures and wondered how this crazy American’s dream of ‘adven-ture activity’ in the middle of the tran-quil northern ‘Berg was going to work out. The 'crazy' American was Chris Mecklenborg and today the centre has become a tremendous success.

Situated in the northern ‘Berg, 30km from Bergville and a few minutes away from Montusi Lodge, All Out Adventures is an impressive array of rides and slides, in and around and on top of and between pine trees. It is exciting for children and adults alike, it’s outdoors, it’s fun, and it adds a new dimension to your ‘Berg trip.

There’s the Canopy Tour which is a series of six zip line cables suspended 25m above the forest floor. Reaching speeds of up to 60km per hour, it is one of the fastest canopy tours but with Chris’s unique guide-operated braking system you do not have to stress about stopping yourself. The cable slides total 230 meters.

Those wanting an adrenalin rush have the free fall king swing, and the thrilling flying trapeze - the only commercially operated participation flying trapeze. The king swing involves a climb up a 20m spiral stair case to the top of a pine tree followed by a breath taking traverse of two suspension bridges before the hair raising jump out of the tree tops from a 17 meter platform. There is also the bun-gee bounce, zip line and forested paint-ball. This is a great venue for corporate and family team building.

MONTUSI READER OFFER

Stay in the luxurious Montusi Lodge in the northern

Drakensberg and enjoy the peace and tranquility of a place with

panoramic views of the Amphitheatre.

20% discount for June, July and August. You will have to bring your Wildside copy with you. Terms and conditions apply, ensure you advise when booking is made.

WILD Reader offer


A BIT ABOUT THE ‘BERG

The Zulus named the Drakensberg ‘uKhahlamba’ (Barrier Of Spears) and it’s the highest mountain range in South Africa rising to 3482m and dates back to the Pre-Cambrian era where volcanic eruptions spewed lava covering massive portions of the sub continent.

During the Palaeozoic era wind and water deposited thick layers of shale, mudstone and sandstone over the ancient primary rock now known as the Karoo Supergroup.

The ‘Berg is comprised of two crowning layers – the Stormberg group and volcanic basalt. The Stormberg group which makes up the Little Berg consists of three layers the lowest being the Molteno Beds composed of blue-grey sandstones forming terraces at the base of the Little Berg. The Red Beds ranging from red to purple mudstones and shales came next forming the grassy slopes. Crowning this layer the Cave Sandstone layer formed and being soft and easily eroded it is where many caves of the Little Berg can be found.

About 200 million years ago Gondwana Land began to separate creating enormous forces causing lava to spew from massive fissures forming in the earths’ surface. In the Drakensberg lava capped sedimentary rock formations with layers of thick basalt make up the High Berg. Wind and rain sculpted the spectacular rock formations over millennia.

ROYAL NATAL NATIONAL PARK

Thendele Lodge

Cost: R465 pppns Child R233 pppns minimum charge R1860.

Activities: Numerous excellent hikes. A guide book and map available at the visitor centre. Trout fishing is available in a dam in the park and in the Mahai and Thukela rivers.

Booking: Tel: 033 845 1999 Web: www.kznwildlife.com

MONTUSI

Northern Drakensberg, halfway between Jhb and Durban, 30km from Bergville. A total of 14 suites set in open gardens each with views of the Amphitheatre.

Cost: R1000 pppns dbb. U12 yrs 50%. Ask about the Wildside Montusi Special

Tel: 036 438 6243 Email:[email protected]

KAMBERG NATURE RESERVE

LOTHENI NATURE RESERVE

VERGELEGEN NATURE RESERVE

SANI PASS

COBHAM STATE FOREST

BUSHMANS NEK

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20

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18

HIGHMOOR NATURE RESERVE

22

GIANT’S CASTLE NATURE RESERVE

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INJISUTHI NATURE RESERVE

16

MONK’S COWL NATURE RESERVE

17

DIDIMA RESORT &ROCK ART CENTRE 3

THENDELE 1

2327

COLEFORDNATURE RESERVE

HIMEVILLE NATURE RESERVE

KARKLOOF NATURE RESERVE

UMGENI VALLEY NATURE RESERVE

WEENEN NATURE RESERVE

STERKFONTEIN DAM NATURE

RESERVE

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NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

UKHAHLAMBA DRAKENSBERG WORLD HERITAGE SITE

RUGGED GLEN

Harrismith

Escourt

Ladysmith

Mooiriver

Howick

PIETERMARITZBURG

Winterton

Bergville

Frere

Rosetta

Nottingham Rd

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WAGENDRIFT DAM NATURE RESERVE

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MIDMAR DAM 7

Weenen

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R10

R29

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Boston

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KWAZULU-NATAL

LESOTHO

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MokhotlongMalubelube

Molumong

R74

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Phuthatijaba

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CATHEDRAL PEAK

SPIOENKOP NATURE RESERVE

tillietudlem trout and game lodge

barrett’s country house the woodturner

dargyle valley pottery

the lavender co.

kamberg rock art centre

silver hill guest lodge

bramleigh manorgasuta

lodge

riverside cottages

shuttleworth weaving

hlatikhulu crane and wetland sanctuary

hartford house western agricul-tural college

monks cowl camping and caravan park champagne

castle hotel

champagne valley resort

the nest

caley lodge

drak. boys choir

thendele resort & camping and caravan park

mnweni cultural centre

antbear guest housesengani horse trails

all out adventures

hlalanathi

montusisungabala

little switzerland

ground cover

karkloof canopy tours

inversada

Cathedral Peak 3004m

Windsor Castle 3065m

Cathkin Peak 3148m

Champagne Castle 3374m

GiantsCastle 3314m

Thaba Ntlenyana 3482m

Mafadi 3450m

Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain ladder

Sentinel Peak 3165mBeacon Buttress 3121m

GARDEN CASTLE NATURE RESERVE

falcon ridge bird of prey centre

the cavern

witsieshoek

drakensberg gardens hotel

lake navarone

penwarn

sani valley lodge

sani pass hotel

zintuloumzololozo

esiweni nambiti plains

three tree hill lodge

drakensberg canopy tours

Drakensberg &Midlands Map.indd 1 2010/06/04 5:48 AM

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER

NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

NEARBY THINGS TO DO

ALL OUT ADVENTURE CENTRE Open daily except on Tuesdays out of season. Drop-ins welcome. The Canopy Tour costs R375 pp, U12 yrs R250, King Swing R150 pp.

Tel: 036 438 6242 Cell: 072 386 1344 E-mail: [email protected]

THE DRAGONS CAVE No trip to the ‘Berg is complete without coming home with home-made goodies like pickles, or preserves, chutneys or cheese. Visit Randa Wright’s farm stall The Dragons Cave, between Bergville and Winterton. 8km from Bergville. Tel: 082 415 1769

GOLF From Montusi, the nearest golf course is 8 km away at the nine-hole Amphitheatre Golf Course at Hlalanathi. Tel: 036 438 6308

HORSE RIDING The Northern Horse operates horse trails from Montusi from gentle strolls over flat fields to descents into the river valleys and up the escarpments. Tel: 082 337 8770

HIKING – COSTS, QUALIFICATIONS, AND CONTROVERSY

The main activity of the ‘Berg is hiking and a guide can enhance an experience while on longer hikes some feel it is a necessity. On a recent hike with a community guide a Wildside representative was asked for a staggering R1 200 for taking two people on a eight hour hike. This prompted questions and below is information which may help you next time you want to hire a guide. However, there seems to be no set fees.

Cyndi Jonker of Sungubala Mountain Bush Camp who trains local community guides says:

One needs to seek out the most appropriate guide for your activity.

There have been a few projects where local people have had the opportunity to be trained as guides. One such project was guides who qualified as site guides and are qualified to guide within their local area. They need to have completed an AMAFA training course.

These guides are self employed and have a concession to guide within the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Reserves. There is no price structuring however the usual rate is around R300 per group per day or part thereof with a maximum of R500 per group for a 10 – 12 hour day. The group size is a maximum of 10 people.

Community guides are contacted directly, but the Ezemvelo offices at Monks, Cathedral and Royal Natal will assist with phone numbers. Community guides have local knowledge. I believe what makes a guide is willingness to share information and impart a ‘warmth’ for the ‘Berg.

Dave Sclanders – Bergfree Adventures www.bergfree.co.za

Professional guide, Dave Sclanders, spends some 135 days a year hiking, and walks more than 1 400 kilometers. He has outstanding mountaineering ability and plans appropriately. Dave shares his views.

Ask the guide for their Guiding Identification card which the guide should carry at all times and has his/her name, photograph, ID, and description of the guide’s qualification. You will need to assess, or ask about the relativity of the qualification to the proposed walk or hike.

Fees should be negotiated and settled before the trip starts. There are no set fees. The fee should be based on: qualification, experience, difficulty altitude, distance, number of people and equipment provided. Fees increase for higher middle areas, and escarpment.

I carry a GPS, cell phone with rescue numbers, an emergency pack with extra food, emergency blanket, basic medical supplies. I inform the EKZN office of my route. Clients provide me with details, medical history, medical aid numbers. I charge in the region of R1000 for a group of 4 people on an eight hour hike.


Zingela Wildside Ad.indd 1 2/24/10 6:57:00 AM

Anthony’s B&B has easy access to all areas of the Central and Northern Berg. We are in the middle of the range

and have a direct view of Cathedral Peak and the mountains up to Champagne Castle.

Tel: 036 448 1033 • Email: [email protected]

• Large swimming pool with sun loungers and covered verandah. • 5 bedrooms en suite with Queen beds and good amenities. • Self catering unit with 2 bedrooms en suite.

Anthony’s B&B

Wilds ide Magaz ine suppor ts the Royal Drakensberg Pr imar y School

Royal Drakensberg Primary School

From a roofless barn was born the Royal Drakensberg Primary School which has given hope and education to children in the northern Drakensberg. Founded in 2007 by establishments in the area to address the need for good education, there are now 32 children from pre-school to Grade 3. The school aims to provide excellent foundation phase education for children by cultivating a culture that embraces holistic educational practices and the best lessons of South Africa’s unique democracy.

Funding is covered primarily through fees and through fund raising events including an annual MTB challenge. All proceeds from the Royal Drakensberg Mountain Bike Challenge go directly to the school. For more information on the ride, call Chris on

072 386 1344.

Visit www.royal-drakensberg.org.za for more information about the school.


Crystal Falls on the way to the Sphinx, Central Drakensberg

My husband Ryan and I set off from Durban for the central Drakensberg and were pleasantly surprised at how quickly we arrived at our destination surrounded by mountains, grass plains and sun birds calling as they flittered from one flower to the next, their feathers shimmering like diamonds in the sun.

Having skipped breakfast and hav-ing travelled for over 200km we were ready for a bite to eat. Turning left off the “Loskop” road, Thokozisa imme-diately on the left at the entrance to the Champagne Valley, looked tempt-ing and with my husband pointing out the sun birds cavorting in their rockery we stopped for a delicious wrap. With camera in hand I stalked the iridescent sunbirds sipping nectar from the dazzling orange flowers of the aloe. We met Zulu Goodman playing Johnny Clegg songs on his guitar as we left Thokozisa: “The Happy Meeting of Ways”.

It was less than half an hour later when we arrived at Champagne Castle Hotel, the last hotel at the foot of the mountains and five minutes away from the Monks Cowl Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offices. Our chalet was luxuri-ous with lots of space for us to unload all of our luggage. The next morning we set off to explore the mountains, joining the path right outside our chalet as most of the walks radiating from the Monks Cowl offices are accessible from Champagne Castle Hotel.

We only managed to walk 4 km past the cascading Crystal Falls to the Sphinx - a conspicuous sandstone prom-ontory - as the weather turned against us and light showers of rain were ushered in for the rest of the day, obliterating any evidence of the mountains. We made it back in time for breakfast at the hotel and we were greeted to a sumptuous affair.

OUT AND ABOUT IN THE CENTRAL DRAKENSBERG

Catherine Burmester explored the central ‘Berg doing a 10 hour hike to Sterkhorn amongst a

variety of other activities.


Left: Champagne Castle Hotel

A plan begins to form…

During the course of the day we met interesting residents of the ‘Berg and tried to glean local information about walks, mountain bike tracks and horse riding. Champagne Castle Hotel has wonderful horse rides into the mountains. A nearby resort, Mountain Splendour, cater for mountain cyclists providing a single track of seven and a half km on their property. Chatting to Sue at the resort we found out that to climb or walk up the Sterkhorn was interesting. Sue and her husband did this walk every New Years’ day at a trot leav-ing at 6am and were back down by 2pm. This piqued my interest and a vague plan began to form. We were going to tackle Sterhorn.

After booking a community guide recommended by the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offices, we arose early the next morning, fumbling around the dark as we dressed hurriedly to be on time to meet our guide at Monks Cowl at 6am. We set off from Monks Cowl as the wisps of clouds splashed across the sky blushed a beautiful rose hue. As we ascended for 2km to elevated heights up

to the Sphinx the sun pushed up from the horizon bathing the escarpment’s peaks, Champagne Castle, Cathkin Peak and Sterkhorn our intended ascent in a gush of golden rays illuminating the landscape in hues of alizarin crimson and ochre golds, a prelude to the many moods of the mountains that we were to experience that day.

Our jeans were soaked from the knees down as we steadily rose up the moun-tain brushing past tufts of grass soaked with dew and the previous night’s rain.

Upon reaching the crystal gurgling waters of Breakfast Stream at the start of the plateau and about 3km from the Monks Cowl offices our guide Brighton aptly sat down to have some breakfast which Champagne Castle Hotel had provided for the three of us. I dashed off more interested to achieve a better view and was rewarded with a spec-tacular view of the open grasslands with tinges of russet red, yellow ochre and sap green rolling into the hills of the ‘Little Berg now at my feet, rising up to the High Berg’s regal escarpments’ peaks Champagne Castle, Cathkin Peak and Sterkhorn.

Blindman’s Corner

Walking along the plateau towards the escarpment up to Blindman’s Corner 2078m above sea level we couldn’t help notice that puffs of mist were gently floating up from the cavernous valleys looking rather innocuous. However as time progressed and we inched our way to Sterkhorn the mist crept in silently and almost imperceptibly engulfed us in the shrouds of her white veil creating a possessed silence all around.

An important attribute of the Drakensberg mountain range is its water producing ability which sustains many rivers and dams. From Blindman’s Corner the angle of the walk veered upwards for three and a half km almost perpendicular towards the heavens leav-ing us gasping for air and grasping tufts of grass to heave ourselves ever higher.

The mist pressed in closely and dense-ly around us clinging to the mountain, chilling the air. Photographically I was disappointed, but it is the unpredictable and dramatic mood swings of the moun-tains that keeps on drawing us back.


Clawing our way up we encountered a beautiful baby Berg Adder irascible and belligerent even at that tender age employed as part of their defense against predators. Ryan helping me change lens-es, placed my backpack full of camera gear on the mountain slope. Gravity took hold and before we knew it the bag was bouncing down the misty mountain slope at a treacherous rate of knots. Ryan waited to see where the backpack would finally come to rest and rushed off down the mountain to retrieve it. Fortunately all was fine and we set off once again having a further one and a half km to reach the summit. We both realized how quickly circumstances can change in this inhospitable yet beautiful environ-ment. We gingerly made our way along the narrow path keeping our balance rather to the higher side as the lower side plunged vertically downward a frighten-ing thousand meters or so.

We leveled out and then traversed a narrow strip with the valley plummeting either side, giving us the heeby geebs. We didn’t know if we were thankful for

the mist as it masked our horizons but would leave our imagination running wild at times when we sneaked a view as the ghostly mist shifted across the sheer weathered precipices. At this point it took a lot of nerve to persevere and with my husband gently prodding me on we resumed determined to reach our goal.

After about five hours of grueling walking and clambering we came to rest on another narrow ledge and ate our lunch also catered by Champagne Castle Hotel and gathered our wits for our final ascent of Sterkhorn. Brighton regaled us with stories of previous hikers suffering from vertigo or an overwhelming fear and having to turn back three quarters of the way up.

Another, larger ‘Berg Adder

Creeping and hoisting ourselves through a hole aptly named the chimney created by two boulders, we inched near-er the crest when the silence was broken by the huffing and puffing of another larger ‘Berg Adder warning me as I was

about to place my hand unwittingly in his vicinity. Clinging to the cliff I hast-ily snapped a few photos mindfull about falling backwards if the adder lunged at me in defense.

In seconds we were scrambling over the rocks having crested the north-ern peak of Sterkhorn towering 2973m above sea level and conquered some of our fears encountered unexpectedly on the way up. We had taken about five and a half hours to ascend +- 1493m but knew that going down would hopefully be quicker. Descending was a completely different kettle of fish. We were scornful of our apprehension experienced during our ascent, laughing at ourselves. Now, buoyed in the comfort of knowing what lay ahead of us, our spirits lifted. We passed a skaapsteker snake elegantly gliding through a tuft of flowers provid-ing respite from the descent which tested our quadriceps and knees. Our thoughts drifted back in awe to Sue’s words of how they raced up the Sterkhorn and back in 8 hours making us laugh at ourselves hobbling down. We had taken 11 hours

Opposite page: Cathkin and Sterkhorn peaks. Above clockwise: Sterkhorn decent, Sterkhorn summit, berg adder( Bitis atropos), the perennial dwarf shrub (Helichrysum glaciale) grows at an altitude between 2500 – 2910mm, the narrow pathed descent from the summit of Sterkhorn, skaapsteker (Psammophylax rhombeatus).


to traverse 18 km - two hours longer than stipulated on the hiking guide as I indulged my passion for photography endeavoring to capture the natural spen-dour around us. There was no better place to reach at the end of the day other than Champagne Castle Hotel – what with the underfloor heating soothing our weary feet, a steaming Jacuzzi bath to massage our exhausted muscles, and a delicious buffet waiting for us in the dinning room of the hotel. It was superb. When we finally laid our weary heads down, we vaguely noticed the hooting spotted eagle owl as we drifted off into never never land.

Helicopter flip, Bird Centre and Canopy Tour

The next day we did a rather fast 45 minute flip in a helicopter flown from the Dragon Peaks Resort providing us with a bird’s view of the immensity and grandeur of the magnificent uKhahlam-ba-Drakensberg Mountains. Personally it was not great for photography for me, but an aerial view always gives perspective.

The fascinating and informative Falcon Ridge Bird Of Prey Centre was our next outing and we were enthralled by the birds of prey flight displays, with the regal Verrreauxs eagle gliding above us against the spectacular backdrop of the mountains searching for thermals and out manouvering a smaller jackal buzzard defending its territory.

The immature Whalberg’s eagle learning to fly and gain confidence in his ability to track thermals higher and higher which he performed admirably encountering a rare Bearded Vulture, commonly known as the Lammergeier on his way. A spotted eagle owl and African Harrier Hawk took centre stage displaying their adaptations to survive

in the wild. The majesty of the birds was tangible at such close quarters, the strength and power in their flight con-spicuously evident. Our last stop for the day was at the Drakensberg Canopy Tour, a spectacular way to experience the indigenous Blue Grotto forest, glid-ing above a gushing river, zipping over tree tops to 14 tree and cliff platforms.

On our last day I was determined to capture the mountains bathed in the early morning glow. However nature foiled me and I was greeted to an insipid pallet of colours washed across the land-scape. We began our early morning walk retracing our steps on our epic Sterkhorn walk at 5:30 am, donning head torches. Two hours later I pressed on leaving Ryan at Breakfast Stream turning right at Blindman’s corner and an hour and a half later was over looking the uMh-lawazinii valley with the distinctive Gat Berg or the more attractive Zulu name iNtunja (eye of the needle) in view which is what we would have gazed down at from the lofty Sterkhorn peak.

On the way back I discovered a tiny shimmering moth nestled all in purple sipping nectar, everlastings glinting in the morning sun and baboons drinking from the mountain streams.

A sign further along the path read-ing ‘Bushman Paintings’ just 2km away from Champagne Castle Hotel lead me away from the track and I was greeted with a painting depicting antelope. The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is the richest area in South Africa for San rock paint-ings forming an incalculable art treasure. The San also possessed poetic qualities tinged with great mirth as Xameb the Bushman said to professor PJ Schoeman: “ I am as old as my disappointments in life and as young as my naughtiest thought.”




SANI PASS

COBHAM STATE FOREST

BUSHMANS NEK

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RUGGED GLEN

Harrismith

Escourt

Ladysmith

Mooiriver

Howick

PIETERMARITZBURG

Winterton

Bergville

Frere

Rosetta

Nottingham Rd

BulwerUnderberg

Himeville

T

T

EXIT 99

EXIT 107

EXIT 125

EXIT 132

EXIT 143

EXIT 152

EXIT 146

EXIT 168

EXIT 179

EXIT 194

EXIT 220

EXIT 230

EXIT 132

R617

R617

R617

R103

R103

R622

R103

R103

R74

R74

R74

R74

R74

N11

N3

N3

N3

Colenso

R616

R103

R602

R103


36

MIDMAR DAM 7

Weenen

R600

R10

R29

R28

Boston

D522

KWAZULU-NATAL

LESOTHO

FREESTATE


Molumong

R74

N5

Phuthatijaba

P

P

P

P

P

P

CATHEDRAL PEAK





the lavender co.




lodge

riverside cottages





castle hotel


the nest

caley lodge

drak. boys choir




all out adventures

hlalanathi

montusisungabala

little switzerland

ground cover


inversada



Cathkin Peak 3148m


GiantsCastle 3314m


Mafadi 3450m






the cavern

witsieshoek


lake navarone

penwarn

sani valley lodge

sani pass hotel

zintuloumzololozo






CENTRAL BERG

The summit of Sterkhorn consists of two peaks, North and South: The South peak should only be attempted by experienced climbers, the North peak at 2973m can be climbed in a day taking about nine hours over 18km from the Monks Cowl offices requiring a certain amount of fitness and a head for heights. The walk along the contour path to view the Mhlwazeni alley is less challenging than Sterkhorn and should take about eight hours and is a 24 km round trip from the EKZNW Monks Cowl offices.

FALCON RIDGE BIRD OF PREY CENTRE

Entrance: R40.00, U12yrs R15.00 displays 10.30 and open every day except Friday.

Tel: 082 774 6398

DRAKENSBERG CANOPY TOUR: R450.00 pp including equipment, guides, and light lunch.

Tel: 036 468 1981

DRAGONS PEAK HELICOPTER TOUR Cost: 15 – 20 min scenic flight R750.00 pp or R850.00 pp including a landing with champagne.

Tel: Bret 083 652 7493

CHAMPAGNE CASTLE HOTEL

Cost: from R730 pppns for a standard room and R1000 pppns for a deluxe room. Chalets which sleep a maximum of six people from R1910 per night excluding meals.

Tel: 036 468 1063 Email: [email protected]

Left to right: Reflecting typical views from the rooms at Champagne Castle Hotel, Wahlenbergia, Falcon Ridge Bird Of Prey Centre.


THE ZINGELA SAFARI &RIVER COMPANY NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

From simple beginnings in 1983, Zingela Camp has evolved slowly over the years. Set deep in the Kingdom of the Zulus on the banks of the Tugela River, it is a romantic haven from the stress of the over-populated world. Whether you book for relaxation, your honeymoon, an adventure filled holiday or conference, Zingela assures you of a special and memorable stay.Ph: 036 354 7005/7250 Email: [email protected] www.zingelasafaris.co.za

ANTHONY’S B&B NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Anthony’s B&B has easy access to all areas of the Central and Northern Berg. We are in the middle of the range and have a direct view of Cathedral Peak and the mountains up to Champagne Castle. Enjoy the large swimming pool with sun loungers and covered verandah. Five bedrooms en suite with queen beds and good amenities. There is also a self-catering unit with two

bedrooms en suite.Ph: 036 448 1033 Email: [email protected]

SANI PASS HOTEL SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Nestled in the beautiful Mkhomazana valley at the foot of Sani Pass, Sani Pass Hotel and Leisure Resort is renowned for its warm hospitality, breathtaking views and personal service. The Hotel can accommodate up to 150 guests. The range of facilities ensures fun and relaxation for all. Tours up Sani Pass depart daily from the hotel. The Hotel caters for conferences and sporting or other interest groups. Enjoy the beauty of what the Berg has to offer in the comfort of this premier Drakensberg resort.Ph:033 702 1320 Email: [email protected] Web:www.sanipasshotel.co.za

SANI VALLEY LODGE SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Sani Valley Lodge is a private game lodge situated at the base of the Sani Pass overlooking a 260 acre lake – one of the most well known fly fishing spots in the Drakensberg. Luxury

accommodation includes self-catering lodges, or the option of using the highly trained staff to prepare meals for you. If you would like to be totally indulgent, take advantage of the delicious menu and relax in the privacy of your lodge.

Sani Valley Lodge offers luxury, privacy, refinement, tranquillity and an array of activities. Ask about the honeymoon lodges with jacuzzis.Ph: 033 7020203 Cell: 082 5613275 Fax: 033 7020203 Email: [email protected] www.sanivalley.co.za

LAKE NAVERONE SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

In a valley among the foothills of the southern Drakensberg occurs a secluded lake, called Lake Naverone, an idyllic natural retreat lying amidst a World Heritage site and far from the distractions of modern life.

This is where Paul and Jenny van Tichelen chose to set their dream, and to share it with others. Lake Naverone is an idyllic Berg retreat where you and your family can enjoy a true natural experience amidst this World Heritage site, all year round. The lake and surrounding 400-hectare estate, provide an awesome environment for a variety of outdoor activities such as trout fishing including river and lake, hiking, mountain biking, horse riding, birding and photography.

There are 19 picturesque stone cottages, some situated on the lakeside and some in tranquil clearings shadowed by the surrounding woods, which provide fully serviced, self-catering accommodation. The accommodation varies in size from two to twelve sleepers.

Lake Naverone is situated 30km from Underberg on a newly tarred road. A well maintained 1000m landing strip and hireable lock-up hangar make it easily accessible by air.Ph: 033 701 1236 Email: [email protected] www.lakenaverone.co.za

INVERSANDA MIDLANDS

Would your family like to experience life on a farm? Meet Matilda the cow who loves children and considers herself part of the family; help feed the horses; watch the calves cavorting in the fields and let Harold, the jack russell, show you wonderful river walks.

Inversanda isn’t just a lovely place to stay, it’s an experience your children will not forget.Tel: 033 234 4321 Email: [email protected] www.inversanda.co.za

Drakensberg Favourites


KARKLOOF CANOPY TOUR MIDLANDS

The Karkloof Canopy Tour is a unique eco-experience that takes people on a 3-hr adventure through the magnificent Karkloof indigenous forest.

The canopy tour involves traversing from one platform to another along a steel cable suspended up to 30m above the forest floor.

The tour comprises seven platforms and eight slides that zig-zag down a pristine forested valley. The scenery and birdlife is spectacular and professional guides provide interesting facts about the forest ecology during the tour.

Karkloof is the second largest indigenous forest in South Africa and it is where you will find people of all ages experiencing slides of up to 175m long which takes them amongst the birds, monkeys, trees and plants of this magnificent forest. There’s enough time on the platforms for you to enjoy the view and take photographs too.

This is for everyone with both a sense of adventure as well as a love of beauty and nature. Ideal for team building, children’s parties, anniversaries.Tel: 033 330 3415 or 076 2412888 Email: [email protected] www.karkloofcanopytour.co.za

GROUNDCOVER MIDLANDS

Groundcover Leather Company’s shop was prefabricated in England and first shipped to South Africa over a hundred years ago, to begin its life as a farmhouse in Creighton, KZN. Today it nestles in Groundcovers’s magnificent gardens in Curry’s Post, where it holds a veritable treasure of leather goods.

Ph: 033 330 6092 Email. [email protected] www.groundcover.co.za

NOTTINGHAM ROAD BREWING CO. MIDLANDS

NRBC started in 1996 as a small micro brewery making 50lt of beer for the Rawdons Hotel where they are based. From there the brewery gained some fame and the co. was formed and so began the journey of the four lads.

The brewery tuns were soon upgraded to 1000lt and fermentation vats added to take the capacity to 21 000lt a month.

The success of NRBC lies in the outstanding range of naturally brewed ales and lagers. Using only the purest spring water, finest hops and malted barley creating beers of exceptional character like their names: Pickled Pig, Whistling Weasel, Pie-eyed Possum, and Tiddly Toad. NRBC does not pasturize their beers.

All of these fine beers, in their unique packaging, are available in the following quantities:

500ml Bottles - Any time thirst quencher 500ml x 4 “Buggy” - Try them all 1 litre Bottles - A relaxing sundowner 2 litre Bottles - Sundowner with a friend 5 litre Chubby’s - Your week-end tipple. 30 litre Kegs - Party time 50 litre kegs - Serious Party time.

You can hire a keg with party barrel for your parties, company events, or weddings. “We’ll change your taste for Beer for good!”Ph:033 266 6728 Email:[email protected] Web:www.rawdons.co.za

KLEINBERG WINES MIDLANDS

Amble down the Mount West road and you will discover the enchanting world of Kleinberg Wines at Kleinbosch Estate. Take time out for wine tasting, cheese platters, fly-fishing, horse riding or clay pigeon shooting while your children enjoy the large jungle gym, trampoline or haystack.

Also try the light lunches and a selection of goodies from our deli. Booking is essential for riding and shooting.Ph: 033 266 6170 Fax: 033 266 6175 Cell: 083 280 3898 Email: [email protected] www.kleinberg.co.za

THE OLD HATCHERY UNDERBERG

Underberg is the perfect location from where you can explore the southern Drakensberg. You can visit Lesotho by driving there in your 4x4, or we can arrange a day trip with Major Adventures. After lunch at the highest pub in southern Africa you will return to The Old Hatchery where you can relax in the quietness of the country. Oak Tree Lodge has six bedrooms. Enjoy an evening meal and browse through the art gallery which boasts the work of local artists Catherine and Lawrence Brennon. Tel: 082 602 7020 Email: [email protected] www.oldhatchery.co.za

ENGELENI LODGE KAMBERG VALLEY

Engeleni Lodge is the ‘’Jewel in the Crown of the Kamberg Valley’’. Nestled under the Kamberg Mountain on an operational dairy farm, enjoy magnificent sweeping views of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg World Heritage Park from the front lawn.

Fish the 7kms of wild brown trout waters on the Little Mooi River, or any of the three trout dams. The trophy Nymph Dam is situated in the garden in front of the Lodge and Mayfly Cottage.

The Lodge boasts five luxury double bedrooms, open log fires in the elegant lounge, dining room and cosy pub. It has a fully equipped kitchen/family room with under-floor heating and satellite TV.

The Mayfly Cottage is self contained, offers a romantic, cosy and luxurious en suite


bedroom, lounge/dinning with big log fireplace and fully equipped kitchen.

The Lodge and Cottage are fully serviced and offer self-catering or catering by request only at the time of booking. Engeleni Lodge is AA Quality Assured ‘’Superior’’ rated and 4 stars with the TGC of South Africa.

The Kamberg Valley is approximately two and a half hours drive from King Shaka International Airport and five hours from O.T International Airport, Johannesburg. The Giant’s Castle and Kamberg Nature Reserves are an hour away. This particular area of the Drakensberg is famous for its spectacular scenery and San Rock Art.

The Lodge is well known for its rivers and lakes providing abundant rainbow and brown trout fishing, all year round. Other activities in the area include hot air ballooning over magnificent scenery, horse riding, mountain biking, hiking and birding. Polo, in the winter, and golf facilities are also readily available.

The Kamberg valley is in close proximity to the Midlands Meander which incorporates shopping, local art and crafts, health Spas and restaurants. Ph: 033 2677218 Fax: 033 267710 E-mail: [email protected]; www.engeleni-lodge.co.za

BEACON VLEI MIDLANDS

Nestling in the rolling hills of the Natal Midlands, overlooking its private 23 hectare dam, Beacon Vlei has a beauty and serenity which seduces, and imparts to one a state of supreme wellbeing and inner tranquillity. After a stay at Beacon Vlei one returns to the city refreshed, invigorated and ready to face the challenges of life.

Formerly known by generations of Michaelhouse old boys as ‘Cliffes’s Dam’ Beacon Vlei now offers discerning guests the choice of luxurious four star B&B accommodation in the Manor House, and in its two separate freestanding homes, The Boat House and Crane Cottage. Fireplaces abound throughout the establishment for those icy winter days and nights and all the bedrooms have heaters to further enhance the comfort of the percale cotton bed linen.

With magnificent views, fishing, birding and hiking, Beacon Vlei is ideal as a family getaway, a lovers retreat, or an ideal venue for a mini conference.Tel: 033 2344 486 www.beaconvlei.co.za Email: [email protected]

TILLIETUDLEM PRIVATE GAME & TROUT FARM MIDLANDS

Winter in a place of beauty and tranquillity…Not far from the hustle and bustle of city life, you will discover a secret place on the slopes of the majestic Inhluzane Mountain. Tillietudlem is a feast for the senses – enjoy the herds of eland grazing in the snow, zebra, blesbok, wildebeest and the rare oribi amongst others, a variety of birdlife to delight, and the elusive Cape clawless and spottedn otter.

You’ll undoubtedly be tempted to cast a fly on one of four of the best stocked dams in the area. If your preference is hiking, mountain biking or just relaxing, Tillietudlem offers it all.

Whether you are staying in the four star Colonial House, with its outstanding reputation for fine cuisine, the self-catering Hlega Manzi Lodge perched above the laughing waters of the Elands River, or the Milk Parlour Cottage, at the end of your perfect day you will be drawn back to enjoy a warming drink in front of a roaring fire.

Comfort is everything and there is nothing nicer than snuggling down in a warm electric blanketed bed, warm fires going, heated bathrooms.

Visit us for a Midlands winter experiencePh: 033 2344 226 Email: [email protected] www.tillietudlem.co.za

QAMBATHI MOUNTAIN LODGE MIDLANDS

Looking for something different in the Drakensberg, visit Qambathi Mountain Lodge. Original art form an integral part of the exclusive handmade furniture and decor used, setting new standards in the Midlands.

Relax and enjoy the welcoming atmosphere from the sala seats or pool loungers on the chill deck, while overlooking the gardens and mountains.

Cooking, art and fly tying courses are just some of the activities on offer. Take a scenic drive in an open game viewer to explore the magnificent view from on top of the mountain, while horse rides are available for the more energetic.

Situated in the secluded Kamberg Valley, close enough to enjoy the Midlands Meander or the Rock Art at Kamberg, while superb hiking can be done on the reserve or at Highmoor Reserve, only 5 kilometres away.

Experience fine dining based on the rich African culture and its diverse cuisine. Ph: 083 279 7105 Email: [email protected] www.qambathi.co.za


This cosy hideaway's unique combination of convenient location, country club atmosphere, luxury accommodation and friendly staff makes packing your bags to leave a challenge. Just under four hours drive from Johannesburg and two hours from Durban, the resort is ideally situated for both corporate conferences and relaxing leisure weekends. The facilities available at Champagne Sports Resort make this spectacular venue the perfect place to work and play.

Following recent hotel developments, the resort can now accommodate up to 700 delegates at the foot of the majestic Drakensberg mountains. The site now boasts a total of nine conference venues, including the new state-of-the-art Summit Exhibition Centre and

the new 1000-seat Sentinel Room, while the smaller, more intimate rooms seat between 18 and 380 delegates.

Conferences are an extremely important sector of Champagne Sports business profile and every effort is made to ensure the smooth running of such events, no matter the size. With world-class conference facilities and various indoor and outdoor breakaway areas, Champagne Sports Resort is an ideal venue for your meeting. The resort offers the most up-to-date equipment available including Crestron hand held controls, and standard equipment including overhead projectors and screens, white boards, flip charts, a television and VCR machine, and a 35mm projector and screens.

Champagne Sports Resort is more than a hotel in the

mountains - it is an experience. Between the roaming herds of Blesbok and rare wildlife that inhabits the estate, there is something for everyone to enjoy. With outstanding sporting facilities and cultural activities, this enduring resort provides a balance between recreation for sports enthusiasts and tranquillity for those seeking relaxation.

Nestled within this spectacular leisure, conference and timeshare resort is the magnificent clubhouse, which overlooks a hidden golfing masterpiece. The top 25 ranked championship golf course is rapidly growing in stature and was recently rated as South Africa’s most beautiful golf course. So whether you’re wearing a golf cap or your thinking cap there is no better place to find inspiration!

CHAMPAGNE SPORTS RESORT The perfect hideaway for work and play

Contact: +27 36 468 8000Email: conferences@champagnesportsresort.comwww.champagnesportsresort.com

It’s taken millions of years to create the magnificent backdrop to Champagne Sports Resort. Nothing can make a more perfect setting than the rugged peaks and lush green valleys of the Central Drakensberg mountain range.


The noise and grime of Durban seems a lifetime away as we drive very cautiously down a steep and narrow farm road into the deep valley that contains, almost womb-like, the Penwarn Trout and Equine Estate. It’s 16 km along a gravel road from Underberg in the heart of the pristine southern Drakensberg, and along a road barely affected by tourist development.

It’s an early autumn evening, and outside the car it is abso-lutely quiet and still, the landscape illuminated only by the car headlights and a distant pale moon. I find it hard to imagine in this calm place, that on a farm just three kilometers away, Splashy Fen breaks the peace every year with its annual flood of music, and a few thousand young pleasure seekers anxious to let it all hang loose.

When we finally arrive at the main lodge, Ndabusche, we are warmly welcomed by estate manager, Henry Hibbet and his wife Debbie, and taken to our comfortable room complete with fireplace and a Victorian style bath. Dinner is waiting on our arrival, home cooked country fare in a dining room with a roar-ing fire. A few warming drinks later, coupled with a heavy dose of country air, and we are ready to sink into a soft bed.

In the soft light of morning, we finally get to see our surround-ings, and they are indeed beautiful. The original lodge, parts of which comprise a refurbished century-old sandstone shed, lies alongside a small dam, complete with canoes and a statue of Nimrod, a somewhat cheeky tame otter that has almost leg-endary status. Along the farm road are magnificent oaks, their leaves gold and rust coloured by the changing seasons.

While Ndabusche, with its seven comfortable rooms is nes-tled sleepily in the valley, its sister lodge, Mtini, meaning ‘otter’,

PenwarnA Place of Peace

Southern Drakensberg


Peter Bendheim visited Penwarn and shares his experience of this delightful southern ‘Berg spot which is also featured on the cover of this edition. Peter and Adele Parker took the photographs.

PenwarnA Place of Peace

is an altogether different experience. Perched high on a hill, overlooking a large natural dam, Mtini has expansive and incredible views across the valley and onto the southern Drakensberg. One could quite easily sit on the rustic wooden deck for an entire day, mesmer-ised by the changing light and colours of the valley and the distant mountains. Warm and golden in the morning, a deep purple in the late afternoon, then finally fire-etched as the sun sinks behind them as dusk approaches.

The day is reflected mirror-like in the dam below, which barely ripples in the soft air. It’s like being in a huge IMAX theatre, but it’s all real and not two-dimensional celluloid. The lodge with its

four suites is definitely the place to stay, and if you take all four rooms, you can opt for self-catering.

There are lots of accommodation options and you can select the one that suits your lifestyle. If self-catering is your thing, you can choose from an isolated and rustic (and very popular) log cabin that sleeps four, to Kudu Lodge, with 6 beds, or the Riverside Cottage which accommodates ten. Otherwise, its good old-fashioned dinner, bed and breakfast at the main lodge. Penwarn is a free-spirited sort of place, both in terms of accommodation and the choices you make with your time. You could, for example choose to do nothing other than read a book, or catch some trout, ride some of the gentle horses, go game viewing, or simply hike for hours on end in what must be some of the most beau-tiful and diverse countryside in South Africa.


Penwarn itself is on 1000 hectares of land. It was recently purchased by adjacent farmer, horse breeder and vet, Peter Dommett, and together with his farm, Waterford, the entire property is some 3000 hectares in extent. Peter is very enthusiastic about the amalgama-tion and is keen to promote agri-tourism, blending farm life, the great outdoors and wild game into a comprehensive family experience. His dairy farm, one of the largest in the province, has some 2000 milking cows producing some 30 000 litres of milk daily, as well as 4000 head of cattle.

But the breeding of carthorses and draft horses remain his true passion. He explains that he initially started using these gentle giants as workhorses, as an alternative and eco-friendly solution to tractors. As a visitor to Penwarn, you can ride on horseback, either for leisure, or to go game viewing. We are both somewhat cautious of horses, to put it mildly, but these equine friends are gen-tle and calm, and I would have happily spent the afternoon on one, wandering the lands.

“Kids often drag their parents from Penwarn to see the farm and the dairy”, says Peter. “But it’s usually the dads who

end up wanting to stay the longest as they just enjoy the experience so much.”

Back at Penwarn, we sit in the warm cosy bar, chatting to the ever-helpful Henry about the wildlife on the estate. A former long-time staffer of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, Henry is a store of knowl-edge about the local birds and ani-mals. “There are some 280 bird species, including rehabilitated owls, and fish eagles, and we have a vulture restaurant for the rare bearded vulture,” he says. “In addition, we have three species of crane – the crown, blue and the highly endangered wattled crane.”

There are also eland, springbuck, wildebeest, zebra, blesbuck and wild otters – as well as Cape foxes and cara-cal. But Penwarn is not without its ani-mal oddities – first there was Nimrod, the otter, and now there is Zedonk, a zebra cross donkey, a curious beast with a donkey’s body and striped stocking legs.

But it’s the landscape that really holds the most appeal, with breathtaking views, and a palette of colours, from deep blue skies, to golden grasslands, verdant green fields and violet-indigo mountains. It really is big sky country, and at night the sky is sprinkled with clusters of stars.

The air is almost too pure and fresh for us city folk, and by then end of the day, we are ready to drift into sleep. It’s a place of peace and magic, and a place to restore both body and soul.




SANI PASS

COBHAM STATE FOREST

BUSHMANS NEK

21

20

19

18


22


2


16


17


THENDELE 1

2327







RESERVE

N

S

EW



RUGGED GLEN

Harrismith

Escourt

Ladysmith

Mooiriver

Howick

PIETERMARITZBURG

Winterton

Bergville

Frere

Rosetta

Nottingham Rd

BulwerUnderberg

Himeville

T

T

EXIT 99

EXIT 107

EXIT 125

EXIT 132

EXIT 143

EXIT 152

EXIT 146

EXIT 168

EXIT 179

EXIT 194

EXIT 220

EXIT 230

EXIT 132

R617

R617

R617

R103

R103

R622

R103

R103

R74

R74

R74

R74

R74

N11

N3

N3

N3

Colenso

R616

R103

R602

R103


36

MIDMAR DAM 7

Weenen

R600

R10

R29

R28

Boston

D522

KWAZULU-NATAL

LESOTHO

FREESTATE


Molumong

R74

N5

Phuthatijaba

P

P

P

P

P

P

CATHEDRAL PEAK





the lavender co.




lodge

riverside cottages





castle hotel


the nest

caley lodge

drak. boys choir




all out adventures

hlalanathi

montusisungabala

little switzerland

ground cover


inversada



Cathkin Peak 3148m


GiantsCastle 3314m


Mafadi 3450m






the cavern

witsieshoek


lake navarone

penwarn

sani valley lodge

sani pass hotel

zintuloumzololozo






PENWARN

Where: Just outside Underberg on the Bushman's Nek road, in the foothills of Southern Drakensberg.

Accommodation: Self-catering units start from around R200ppn, and lodge accommodation is around R1050 ppn, dinner, bed and breakfast. Prices vary by accommodation type and season. Midweek and other specials are run frequently and are available on their website.

Tel Lodge: Tel: 033 7011 368 or 033 7011 651, Fax: +27 (0) 86 6116 439

Cell: 082 773 9923 or 082 922 2091

Email: [email protected] or [email protected] www.penwarn.com


Escape the World Cup crowds for tranquilityin the beautiful Drakensberg.

Escape the World Cup crowds for tranquility in the beautiful Drakensberg.

Tel/Fax: (033) 702 0203 www.sanivalley.co.za

KleinbergWines

KleinbergWines

Clay Pigeon Shooting

Adventure activities / Family entertainment / Deli shop / Light lunches

WineTasting

andCheese Platters

K l e i n b o s c h E s t a t e

Riding(033) 266 6170 / (083) 280 3898 / [email protected] / www.kleinberg.co.za

Fishing

at

InversandaInversanda is a country lover’s haven situated in the beautiful Dargle valley in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal. Acclaimed as the true definition of hospitality and hand picked by the prestigious Greenwood Guide, Inversanda is also a safe retreat for walking, birding, horse riding, mountain biking or trout fishing. Come and join us, we’re at the end of the road.

Tel: 033 234 4321www.inversanda.co.za

Inversanda.indd 1 6/8/09 2:06:20 PM

SAFEGUARDING BIODIVERSITY OF THE LAND AND HER PEOPLE

Of the 369,000ha of land owned by Sappi in South Africa, about 34% is unplanted and managed for biodiversity conserva-tion. Approximately 19,500ha of this unplanted land consists of roads, villages, offices and houses. Of the remaining land 54,400ha or 40% is grassland, 12,360ha is indigenous forest, 5,900ha is woodland, and 4,300ha is wetland all in good condi-tion providing excellent habitat for plant and animal species. This is borne out by the fact that 455 bird species - nearly half of all bird species that occur in South Africa - have been recorded on Sappi plantations along with 52 red data (rare, threatened or endangered) species and have some sites that conserve high pro-

file species such as oribi, various crane species, the Karkloof Blue Butterfly and the very rare mistbelt moss frog (Arthroleptella ngongoniensis).

COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT

Established in 2000, the Sappi WWF Tree-Routes Partnership in South Africa introduced community-based eco-tourism busi-ness ventures as an alternative to the non-sustainable use of local forests and wetlands.

Partnership projects include the Wakkerstroom Training Centre, Thonga Beach Lodge and Mabibi Campsite, Dlinza Aerial Boardwalk, Karkloof Conservation Centre, Marutswa

Forests are essential to a healthy environment, sustaining vital plants and wildlife, filtering water and air, and reducing greenhouse gases by removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Forests are also an economic resource, providing a plentiful, renewable natural

material used to produce products, many of them recyclable.

Essential Forests

Wildside spoke to Sappi to find out more about two projects namely the Karkloof Conservation Centre and the Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk, both in KwaZulu-Natal, and both of which contribute significantly to the protection of forests and the promotion of biodiversity.


Forest Trail and Boardwalk, Ongonye Birder’s Camp and the Southern KwaZulu-Natal Birding Route, in con-junction with BirdLife South Africa. Involving communities through eco-tourism is giving them a vested interest

in preserving biodiversity and provides an ideal way for people to generate wealth in areas where little other oppor-tunities exist. Wildside visited two of these projects: Karkloof Conservation Centre and Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk.

KARKLOOF CONSERVATION CENTRE

The Karkloof Conservancy covers approximately 40,000 ha and this area includes wetlands, grasslands and the last largest remaining tract of mistbelt forest. Many threatened species occur here – these being all three species of crane, Cape parrot, southern ground hornbill, bald ibis, denham bustards, oribi, the Karkloof Blue Butterfly, black stinkwood trees, and samango monkeys. This area has been highlighted by conservationists as being a biodiversity hotspot.

Birders are attracted to the bird hides as many want to see the wattled cranes. There are only 240 wattled cranes left in South Africa, of which 220 occur in KwaZulu-Natal. This bird is now criti-cally endangered. The Conservancy is also involved in the Wattled Crane Recovery Programme and is working with the Endangered Wildlife Trust by helping to identify all active wat-tled crane nesting sites in the area. Second eggs will be removed from the nests, hatched and then sent to the

Johannesburg Zoo where the chick will be raised and later released back into the Natal Midlands. This project is set to expand to the KZN Crane Foundation which is situated within the Bill Barnes Crane and Oribi Nature Reserve which was recently proclaimed under the Biodiversity Stewardship Programme.

The Karkloof Conservation Centre, opened in 2007, comprises an informa-tion and education centre, a tranquil picnic site and braai area, as well as two world-class birdhides. The Conservancy is involved in the community through a variety of projects including conserva-tion projects at schools, and undertakes an annual game count, arranges top speakers on conservation matters for the community, as well as plays host to the Karkloof Classic Bike Ride, the Karkloof Adventure Quest and more recently The 3 Cranes Challenge.

MARUTSWA FOREST TRAIL AND BOARDWALK

The Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk is built on an old logging

Karkloof Conservation Centre: A Sappi funded sanctuary for many threatened bird species amongst which to be found are all three species of cranes. One of the two bird hides where the public can chance the opportunity to spot the wattled cranes (photos©Karkloof conservancy).

Above: One of Karkloof's mist-belt forests home to the Karkloof Blue Butterfly, emerald cuckoos, knysna loeries, crowned and martial eagles, and the fearless tree swinging samago monkeys. (photo©wildside magazine)

Right: Marutswa Forest, Bulwer has been described as being amongst the most active mist-belt forests in KwaZulu-Natal. Home to the Cape parrots, attracted by the seeds and nesting potential of the forest's yellow wood trees,they are often found in flocks of up to 100 birds (photo© cape parrot: Stan Culley: and forest: Michael Cowell).


site used in the late 1800s and is named after a local Zulu man ‘Mahustjwa’ who harvested sneezewood trees to sell as railway sleepers. The lower walk of the contour trail is part of the old logging route which was used by oxen and mules to drag timber for sale in Durban and Pietermaritzburg.

The Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk, located close to the quaint country village of Bulwer on the R617, profiles and promotes the conservation of Bulwer’s unique biodiversity by sup-porting eco-tourism and eco education initiatives that leads to the conservation of threatened forest habitats. The project has so far provided three full time jobs for local community members as custo-dians of the project, as well as a welcome platform for local crafters to sell their original and unusual handicrafts.

The site comprises a network of arte-rial trails leading into the indigenous for-est, where there are a number of lookout jetties, boardwalk sections, picnic sites decks and view points, allowing visitors to view the various layers of the forest, including the canopy.

Birds, Mammals and Trees

The Marutswa Forest has been described by some of South Africa’s top birding tour operators as one of the most active mist-belt forests in KwaZulu-Natal. The forest is home to a vast number of rare and interesting birds. Cape parrots, sadly endangered and dwindling in num-bers in South Africa are attracted by the seeds, and the nesting potential of the plentiful yellow wood trees and are often found in flocks of up to 100 birds in the forest. Specials to look out for are Cape

parrot, orange ground-thrush, African crowned eagle, bush blackcap, white-starred robin, buff-spotted flufftail, nari-na trogon, grey cuckooshrike, yellow-throated woodland-warbler, crowned and southern ground hornbill.

Attracted to the pristine forest habitat bush buck and reed buck are frequent visitors to the forest, as are a herd of bush pig that freely forage. Rock dassies have been seen and the call of the tree dassie has also been heard in the for-est. Very recently mongooses were also seen around the forest boardwalk. Natal dwarf chameleons and several species of butterfly such as the emperor swallow-tail can also be found.

Within the forest there are a number of very large and old yellowwoods of about the same age and size, surviving simul-taneously because they were too small to harvest for logging during the late 1800s. On the upper contour of the walk you will also be enchanted by the very ancient vines that twine and spread through the tree canopies for miles on end.

You will also encounter amongst many other tree species: cabbage trees, white ironwood, knobwood, black stink wood, sneezewood, lemonwood, wild currant, wild quince, and tree fuchsia.

An indigenous nursery

The forest hosts a rich selection of wild plants and grasses, including a large variety of ferns, wild lilies including the ‘paint brush’, ground and tree orchids, wild dagga and wild iris. The forest has just opened an indigenous nursery where you can find well priced plants and tree saplings.

Owl spotting and picnics

The Marutswa craft shop offers items made by crafters from the surrounding communities, including baskets, pots, wire and woven gifts as well as jewellery and carvings. Have a light snack at the forest café or join us for one of our deli-cious and poetic candle lit suppers for an owl or chameleon spotting. Why not end your visit to the forest with a picnic or a braai curry or a potjie around the firepit. The Marutswa Forest is always happy to specially cater for groups when booked in advance.

Marutswa Forest Trail and Board Walk: A network of arterial trails leading into the indigenous forest and a number of lookout points, allow visi-tors exceptional opportunities to view the birdlife. (photos© Ria Fokkens, Michael Cowell and Keith Valentine).

MARUTSWAEntrance: R20 pp and R5 scholars. Preschoolers free.

Situated: Outside Bulwer on the R617. Open 7 days a week. Coffee shop open from Wednesday to Sunday.

Accredited birding guide on request. Tel: 071 4195 238 or 073 543 8545

Group bookings email: [email protected]

KARKLOOFEntrance: R20 pp and R10 for children. School groups welcome.

Situated: 15kms outside Howick on the Karkloof Road.

Tel: 033 3302992 (Wed, Thurs and Friday mornings best time to call.)

Email: [email protected]

Open 7 days a week.

For further information on Sappi projects visit www.sappi.com



sappi advert 210_280mm.indd 1 7/10/09 8:11:54 PM

The yellowing newspaper articles are more than 10 years old and are haphazardly affixed to the walls of the lounge and bar area of Wavecrest Resort. The many press clippings with their curling corners and faded photographs are almost inconsequential. As I start to read them, I’m transported back to what was once a gripping time in the life of this resort when the almost impossible happened. A man and a community stood up against a mining giant and prevented the complete ruination of a variety of ecosystems.

The man was Conrad Winterbach, owner of Wavecrest, who together with the people of Nombanjane, fought Iscor. It was a long and gruelling battle. It shouldn’t have been, there was an absolute imbalance of power. Conrad and the community had few resources and the giant had bags of goodies including promises of unprecedented wealth, jobs and good fortune. Soon,

the once peaceful and united community was divided. Some unemployed pro-mining community members were miraculously sporting new cars, while the community leader of the anti-min-ing lobby was allegedly murdered. Conrad was threatened with murder.

Iscor wanted the titanium, despite the fact that other mining companies had turned it down because of the extreme envi-ronmental sensitivity. Richards Bay Mining was the very first company to be offered the mineral rights at Wavecrest. They did an environmental impact study, and turned it down. Not Iscor, they pursued it relentlessly. The intrigue and political posturing, the lies and deceit, the trickery and trouble, the fight had all the hallmarks of an epic drama. It’s a book on its own.

The climax was in November 1998 when at a mass meet-ing which included the surrounding communities, politicians, and the press, the now angry community told all publicly that they did not want their land destroyed and would not allow it. They politely advised the mining representatives to leave as

WAVECRESTUNINTENDED LEGEND

Jennifer Crawford visited Wavecrest Resort on the Wild Coast to discover a laid back resort owned by an unapologetic conservationist who is

about to hand it over to a new caretaker. Photographs by Eddie Crawford



Photographed from the southern banks of the Kobonqaba Estuary on the Wild Coast at the Wave Crest Resort. This unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary which has significant implications for marine life, was once under threat of being destroyed. A quirk in the ocean current results in the mangroves being the most southerly manifestation in the world.

soon as possible as their safety could not be guaranteed. Conrad chuckles when he regales the tale and mostly down-plays his role. However, his role is well documented, and his commitment to the environment unwavering.

What was being protected?

A unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary with significant implications for marine life was what was ultimately being protected. Wavecrest is situated 160km north of East London, on the southern banks of the Kobonqaba Estuary (32° 36’ S; 28° 29’E) which drains into the Indian Ocean. This system drains a catchment area of 320 square kilometres.

What makes this estuary unique is a quirk in the ocean current which causes the clear, warm Agulhas current

to flow into the Kobonqaba Estuary. It ‘kisses the mainland’ where the conti-nental shelf is at its narrowest which is at Wavecrest. The resulting mangroves are the most southerly manifestation on the planet – and one of very few in Africa that are expanding.

Oceans depend on estuaries

Estuaries are not only nurseries, but tenderly hold and drive the origins of the many food chains to be found. The pri-mary source of food for many organisms on estuaries, including bacteria, is detri-tus from settlement of the sedimentation. The irony of the detrital effect, where all the debris provides food and creates life, is not lost on Conrad. “The estuary is a conversion of death to life,” he says.

The health of an estuary then, is proportionate to what dies in an estuary. The mangroves are part of this system. In a sacrificial effort to preserve them-selves, some leaves of the mangroves turn yellow and die, dropping into the estuary to form organic matter which

will be food for the crabs and prawns, which will be food for the fish, and so this living, productive estuary, will deliv-er tons of protein to the ocean which depends on estuaries.

The finest angling ever

Geoff Thomassen, renowned angler, and father of Craig Thomassen who is co-author of Fishing Yourself Single, and of Inside Angling television fame, was at Wavecrest when we visited. (And…Craig Thomassen, according to Geoff, is in fact only the second best fisherman in South Africa.)

Keen fishermen at the hotel noncha-lantly kept a close eye on where Geoff was fishing each day in the hopes that they would find out about a secret spot and learn some of the skills which make him a hugely successful angler. Geoff was

rewarded with “a nice sized steenbras” the first morning and we had a chance to chat to Geoff.

“Wavecrest offers some of the very finest angling – rock, surf, estuarine, riverine, fly or deep-sea. I have been coming here for 20 years, and the strin-gent conservation practices is the reason that fishermen are rewarded with excel-lent catches,” said Geoff as he rattled off some of the fish to be found here…kob, silver steenbras, black steenbras, bronze bream, garrick, grunter, perch and skipjack. Numerous top fishing mag-azines and television programes, also rate Wavecrest.

Dunes and dolphin viewing

As I looked out onto the large shim-mering golden sand dunes which sepa-rate the indigenous forests from endless stretches of unspoilt beaches while I lay tanning on my own private stretch of beach, I couldn’t help but think how tragic it would have been to have lost all of this to mining. The coastal dune

forests are considered to be some of the finest examples in South Africa.

We had headed out to sea earlier that day with Conrad and spotted a large pod of more than 100 dolphins. Conrad said this was a small pod in comparison to those seen during the sardine run. We got chatting and he said that Wavecrest is blessed with many superb different ecological environments which needed to be protected and preserved at all costs. “This takes precedence over even the wishes of our guests,” he says.

For those who want to canoe peace-fully up a river, who enjoy birding or fish-ing, or taking long walks along unspoilt beaches, or delight in pursuits such look-ing for mud prawns, or sundowners on a river with the sounds of a fish-eagle, then Wavecrest is for you. There is also a delightful Spa. Rumour has it that when

quad bikers arrive on the beach Conrad runs down to them waving his arms chasing them away.

Wavecrest takes guests up the Nxaxo or Nqusi rivers daily at high tide. Scan the estuarine mudflats for wader spe-cies such as sanderling, grey plover or ruddy turnstone. The dunes adjacent to the Nxaxo River are covered in dense indigenous dune forest which boasts specials such as the spotted ground thrush, narina trogon and blue-mantled crested-flycatcher. We saw a trumpeter hornbill on our river cruise, but missed the pair of resident fish eagles. The nearby grasslands behind the resort host a completely different set of species and we spotted and photographed the black-winged lapwing.

A large colony of crowned cranes that have roosted on an island in the estuary every evening in front of the resort for decades, has now been scattered by the attentions of a family of cape clawless otter that have a lair in the thicket adja-cent to the hotel.

A unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary with significant implications for marine life was what was ultimately being protected.



Conrad Winterbach

Geoff Thomassen

Electric rays and crab hunting

As tranquil as Wavecrest is, and it seems to be geared for a more mature age group, our party included two teen-age boys who had an adventure. If they were not wakeboarding on the estuary in front of the hotel or at the beach, then they were in the canoes fishing. They kept appearing with contraptions which the enthusiastic kitchen staff kept supplying them. These ranged from the ‘mud prawn catcher pump’, to the net and bait bag for crabs. I was content just watching the ghost crabs scuttling through the effervescence of an ebbing tide.

There was adrenalin rush too for these teenage adventure seekers. Each time they waded across the estuary, the anticipation of standing on an electric ray made them tremble. They did stand on one or two, but the electric discharge wasn’t too bad, enough though to make them leap and yelp. They could’ve taken the canoe but they seemed to be having fun chancing it.

The boys caught three huge crabs and the chef made a killer curry. The food is good old fashioned hearty fare. After a long day in the sun at sea, a great meal, the comfortable chalets were perfect. The accommodation has recently been refurbished and the thatched chalets are clean, comfortable and adequate.

New owner

What started out as a hostel catering for fishermen 90 years ago has evolved and the fortunes of Wavecrest have been through several changes. In the early nineties it was run down and became almost derelict. The Winterbach family took it and cared for it, little did they know that caring for it would take on such epic proportions.

The first battle was getting rid of the customers. “The backbone of the previous clientele was the rough-neck fisherman, whose freezer in the back of the bakkie was full of beer on arrival and full of fish fillets on departure. Only those anglers whose love for the sport goes beyond the value of the booty and who abide by the strict local regulations are welcome at Wavecrest,” says Conrad.

The resort’s market changed, and those who appreciated the natural beauty have remained clients for years. Wavecrest is entering a new chapter and although Conrad has been in partner-ship with community members for some time, he has recently sold his total share-holding to Gloria Serobe a high-profile business women from the community.

So even though Conrad is no longer an owner, you may still see him chasing off the quad bikers, as he remains as a permanent resident and advisor to the management team.

umngazi river bungalows

Port Edward

mkambatimsikaba

mbotYi

south sand bluff

Port St Johns

Coffee baY

the haven

mazeppa baY hotel

waveCrest hotel

kei mouthmorgan’s baY hotel

haga-haga

hluleka nature reserve

dwesa nature reserve

Cape henderson nature reserve

kwelera nature reserve

UMTATA

Idutywa

Butterworth

Komga

hole in the wall

kob inn

EAST LONDON

r61

N2

r409

r61

Flagstaff

Lusikisiki

Willowvale

great kei river bridge

mkambati nature reserve

trennerY’s hotelseagulls

wild Coast sun

Kentani

Qunu

Viedgesville

Elliotdale

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WAVECREST

Where: South of Port St Johns, north of Haga Haga, 160km north of East London.

How to get there: Fly to East London and ask resort to arrange a transfer – takes two and a half hours from the airport. The drive from KZN is in the region of 8 hours.

Cost: From R570 pppns incl. all meals. U12 less 25%. Ask for Wildside Pen-sioner Special.

Accommodation: 13 thatched chalets, sea facing and garden facing, with en-suite bathrooms with corner baths and showers. Tea and coffee facilities. Clean and comfortable.

Facilities: Squash court, tennis court, pool, health Spa, canoes.

Activities: Fishing, birding, hiking, sea trips, river cruises, horse-riding, dolphin viewing.

Tel: 047 498 0022

Email:[email protected]


There are both sea facing and garden facing chalets, all are comfortable, neat and more than adequate while the views onto the estuary and ocean are simply spectacular.

047 498 0022 / Cell: 083 306 3043047 498 0042 /

Self Catering Cabanas & Conference CentreHotelSeafacing,

DBB Accommodation with Self Catering facilities.

Conference Centre all in a tranquil setting. Affordable Rates

and old fashioned hospitality. Only metres from the sea. Only metres from the sea.

umngazi river bungalows & sPa

Port Edward

mkambati

msikaba

mbotYi

south sand bluff

Port St Johns

Coffee baY

the haven

mazePPa baY hotel

waveCrest hotel

kei mouthmorgan’s baY hotel

haga-haga

hluleka nature reserve

dwesa nature reserve

CaPe henderson nature reserve

kwelera nature reserve

UMTATA

Idutywa

Butterworth

Komga

hole in the wall

kob inn

EAST LONDON

r61

N2

r409

r61

Flagstaff

Lusikisiki

Willowvale

great kei

river bridge

mkambati nature reserve

trennerY’s hotelseagulls

wild Coast sun

Kentani

QunuViedgesville

Elliotdale

in

di

an

oc

ea

n

WILDSIDEMAP OF THE WILD COAST

UMNGAZI RIVER BUNGALOWS AND SPAPORT ST JOHNS TURN OFF

Nestled in the idyllic setting of the Wild Coast’s rocky coastline and indigenous forests, Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa is the perfect getaway for families needing to escape.

Umngazi’s individually and tastefully furnished thatch-roofed bungalows enjoy a panoramic view of the unspoiled beauty of the Wild Coast, while a host of activities especially designed for young and old alike make this an ideal destination both out of season for families with pre-school children as well as in season for those with older children.

Unwind beside the private pool or on the secluded beach, or enjoy picnics and walks in the indigenous forests, while children enjoy a full programme. There is fishing, canoeing, tennis, horse-riding, dune boarding and organised games. For the little ones there is a creative corner with secure play area and an adventure jungle gym. For the tweenies and teens there is a “pad” to hang out and chill with mates, play foosball and watch TV. Trained nannies are available to look after children from newborns up and should parents want to rekindle the romantic moments of yesteryear whether it be a walk on the beach, or a candlelit dinner.

The main dining room provides a relaxed atmosphere with a delicious menu and a special children’s menu offering trusted

favourites as well as healthier options. The resort offers a children’s dining room so parents don’t need to worry about upsetting their children’s routines while they’re on holiday.

The dedicated and experienced therapists at Umngazi’s Spa provide skin and body therapies using imported and locally made body products to ensure guests leave feeling relaxed, pampered and rejuvenated. Treatments include a range of massages as well as special treatments for mothers-to-be, men, and fun treatments for children.Tel: 047 564 1115/6/8/9 Email: [email protected] www.umngazi.co.za

MAZEPPA BAY HOTEL BUTTERWORTH TURN OFF

Tucked in a beautiful setting of palms above the broad beach Mazeppa Bay is characterised by its own island. Depending on the tide, this is sometimes only accessible by a quaint

suspension bridge, which joins the island to the main beach.

The 3 star Mazeppa Bay Hotel is AA Highly Recommended, with a choice of family or double rooms, and two honeymoon suites. Home cooked meals and seafood dinners are scrumptious. The hotel boasts a tennis court, full-size snooker table, beach volley ball, table tennis, a trampoline for the children, DSTV in the communal TV lounge and two bars. Mazeppa Bay has a 550 m landing strip for light air craft and a helipad, and transfers to and from East London airport, a two and half hour drive away, are available.

Angling is a key activity, and Mazeppa has its own registered boat launch off the beach. Tackle and bait are for sale at the hotel, and there are also rods and reels for hire.Tel: 047 498 0033 Email: [email protected] www.mazeppabay.co.za


The Eastern Cape has an indescribable beauty of its own, wild and natural, with a variety of all time favourite places to stay.Insert photo: Just an hour and a bit drive from Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa, the gully at Thanda is an ideal fishing spot for the long casters and of course the perfect place to break away from any crowds (However, It is advisable to go with a local fishing guide from Umngazi River Bungalows.)

Eastern Cape Favourites

HAGA HAGAHAGA HAGA (SOUTH OF KEI RIVER)

Haga Haga offers accommodation on a dbb basis, self-catering cabanas and relaxed conferencing. Lunch and evening pub meals for visitors are available as well as the renowned seafood evening.

Situated on the water’s edge 45min north of East London this is a wonderful place for families and the village of Haga Haga offers tranquillity and simplicity.

Whether fishing, surfing, hiking, shell collecting or enjoying the abundance of sea life in the many rock pools and craggy gullies you are sure to enjoy a memorable stay at Haga Haga.Tel: 043 841 1670 Email: [email protected]

MORGAN BAYMORGAN'S BAY

Just an hour’s drive from East London along the Wild Coast in South Africa, is a special place which somehow allows those who go there to exchange the cares of the world for the more important things in life.

This coastal village lies nestled between majestic cliffs and a mile-long stretch of unspoilt beach. It is flanked by a stunning lagoon which carves open a sandy mouth to the raw beauty of the Indian Ocean. This is South Africa’s magnificent Wild Coast at its best.

Yet in spite of its incredible natural beauty, it is the simple memories of good times had there that people often recall when they speak affectionately of ‘Morgs’.

Morgan Bay is essentially a place of lifetimes of fond memories – plenty of old ones, and many new ones still to come. It is a place of friends and family – where both children’s laughter and the cry of the Fish Eagle are second nature – a sort of safe haven of halcyon days spent splashing in the sun – and good times shared with loved ones.Tel: 043 8411062 /0834558022 Email: [email protected]

MBOTYI RIVER LODGELUSIKISIKI TURN OFF

There is no better way of escaping the World Cup than spending an unforgettable few days on the Wild Coast. Situated 26 km from Lusikisiki in the wild erness area at the mouth of the Mbotyi River is Mbotyi River Lodge.

Mbotyi River Lodge is in a perfect position for those looking for a tranquil holiday or for the adventurer wanting to experience and explore the many beautiful wild treasures this coast has to offer.

The Lodge offers comfort, style, friendly service and hearty home style cuisine. Mbotyi River Lodge also offers a range of hiking trails along beautiful beaches, up on the grassy escarpment overlooking the sea and through indigenous forest.

Mbotyi comes to life in June/July when divers and wildlife enthusiasts from all over the world descend to be part of the Sardine Run.

Sardine Run SpecialMbotyi River Lodge is offering a package to lodge guests who wish to participate in this exciting event and view this incredible phenomenon from the ocean. To experience this once in a life-time opportunity, con-tact us at [email protected] or telephone 039 253 7200.


WILD Reader offer


Nambiti, situated 25 km east from Ladysmith, is the only Big-5 reserve in this central area of KwaZulu-Natal. Rich in biodiversity, ecospheres vary from central savannahs, to open grasslands in the northwest and tall, dense acacia thornveld in the south.

It’s a relatively new reserve, having been successfully developed from an extensive community land claim. Besides the Big-5, the reserve boasts over 30 mammal species and excellent birding, including being the breeding ground for blue crane, long crested eagle and bald ibis. On its recent visit Wildside had excellent sightings of a variety of vultures and cheetah with cubs. There is spectacular scenery, including a waterfall on the Sundays River that drops 40 metres.

This malaria-free reserve has nine luxurious safari lodges and one tented camp. The beauty of the reserve is that it offers guests a choice in accommodation options. As each lodge in this 20 000 acre reserve is privately owned; each has its own character and expression. Wildside visited two of the lodges in diverse locations – Esiweni, perched high on a cliff with spectacular panoramic views and Nambiti Plains, with its up close contact with grassland wildlife.


The Sundays River waterfall and gorge with Esiweni Lodge in the far distance spectacularly positioned on the edge of a sandstone cliff.

BATTLE FIELDS – KZN

Lisa Köhler and Rod Macleod visit two of the nine luxurious safari lodges found at Nambiti Private Game Reserve.

Ladysmith


ESIWENI LODGEIt’s an unusual sight to look down onto the backs of swallows as they flit fluidly to and from a cliff face. But then again, Esiweni Lodge does mean ‘on the cliffs’. With its lofty position and decks hovering on the very edge of a precipice, Esiweni boasts spectacular views. It’s an impressive location for a lodge. To the right is a 40 metre high waterfall. To the left, steep hills become a muted haze in the distance. And far below, the Sundays River writhes between abrupt slopes of a gorge in Nambiti Private Game Reserve, central KwaZulu-Natal.

Soaring with Swallows

ESIWENI LODGE


It’s an unusual sight to look down onto the backs of swallows as they flit fluidly to and from a cliff face. But then again,

Esiweni Lodge does mean ‘on the cliffs’.

This ‘Sundays River’ (not the one we generally think of in the Eastern Cape) is better served by its Zulu name ‘Indaka uMfula’ meaning ‘Muddy River’. The water is a strange yellow colour. Cloudy with clay sediment, the river carves its way turbently through the gorge, pro-viding the background soundtrack for guests relaxing on Esiweni’s decks or taking a dip in the lodge’s rim-flow pool.

With the soothing sound of water and the warmth of the sun, guests are quickly lulled into a soporific state. Forget those city schedules, cell phones and televi-sion. (There is no reception anyway.) This is a place to relax. The lodge has a wonderful calming effect. Magda and Natie Le Roux, the lodge’s hosts concur. “This is a nice quiet hideaway, especially as a couple’s retreat,” says Magda. “Yes, it’s a place of absolute tranquility. You can come and rest here,” agrees Natie.

Esiweni Lodge is one of the most recent additions to accommodation options at Nambiti. Only officially opened in May 2009, the lodge can host ten people in five spacious suites, including a honeymoon suite and two

that are interconnected for use as a fam-ily unit. Hugging the cliff edge, all have advantage of the spectacular views from private decks.

Besides the showers and luxurious freestanding baths inside, suites also have outdoor showers. There is nothing like showering under southern stars. If the night is nippy, guests can pad around suites barefoot, enjoying the comfort of under-floor heating or make their way to the main lodge and enjoy the warmth of the roaring fires.

The main lodge is elegant and spa-cious with double volume ceilings; doors that fold back to the extensive deck or a sheltered courtyard; and open plan flow between bar, lounge and dining area. Rugged rock clad fireplaces contrast with smooth screed floors. Décor has colonial safari touches and a power-ful telescope is on hand to get a closer view of that large raptor nesting on the cliff face. Hours can pass by exploring wildlife concealed amongst the unique cabbage trees and ravine vegetation of the gorge.

Magda and Natie are the backbone of the team looking after guests’ needs at the lodge. Magda is responsible for the delicious ‘soul food’. The lodge’s wide selection of South African wines is housed in its wine cellar, the ideal venue for guests wanting a private dinner. Natie takes guests for the twice-daily game drives on offer. Besides his exten-sive knowledge of the bushveld, Natie is a keen game photographer for those wishing to swop notes.

Besides its attraction as a Big-5 reserve, Nambiti Reserve is also in close proximity to the historic Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer battlefields. (Elandslaagte battlefield and memorial is located on the edge of the Reserve.) For guests on longer stays, the lodge can arrange tours with external guides. Also an optional extra are Spa treatments with outside therapists. However, the peace and tran-quility of Esiweni is a tonic for the soul in itself. This small and intimate lodge at once enchants its guests with its spec-tacular scenery and warm hospitality, ensuring you feel relaxed and at home in no time at all.


NAMBITI PLAINS PRIVATE GAME LODGE


The Plains’ Personal TouchIt’s a warm African welcome as you enter the lodge. The smiling faces of the staff as they sing their greeting sets the tone for guests’ stay at Nambiti

Plains. This 5-star lodge is marked by its friendly service that’s attentive to every detail.

While the lodge feels expansive and is lavish in its spacious-ness, surprisingly Nambiti Plains only sleeps ten. Luxurious thatch and stone suites are strung like gems on walkways sensitively woven through indigenous forest. However, it’s the facing views that give the lodge not only its name but also a continental African touch.

You could be looking onto the savannah plains of central Africa. This feeling is especially sensed from the main lodge’s deck. A mammoth wild common fig tree (Ficus thonningii) stands regally at the edge of an expansive deck. A level below is a circular pool with clear views of a watering hole. Fringing yellow grass parts and a majestic kudu gingerly steps forward. A hyper warthog leads her youngsters hurriedly forward. You could be watching game drink in the Serengeti, not 25 km east of Ladysmith.

The recently appointed lodge manager underlines that international flavour. Obert Lusinga, master of a dozen lan-guages and with vast lodge management experience in Africa says, “Guests must feel at home, even though they are totally immersed in the bush.”

While luxury meets Africa’s wilds, from its inception the lodge has been sensitive to the area’s ecology. Its architectural footprint was built around the trees in the indigenous forest. Hanging fittings focus light downward so the brilliance of night skies is not dimmed and game is not disturbed.

Gemsbok Oryx gazella


With a view like this,you could say we have the big six.

Esiweni Lodge is situated in the malaria-free, Big 5, Nambiti Private Game Reserve

near Ladysmith. With our unmatched cliff-top views over the Sundays River, we like

to think of ourselves as a Big Six Reserve! After a memorable game drive, there is

no better way to relax than with a fi ne South African wine around our rim-fl ow pool

overlooking the spectacular scenery. We also offer refi ned dining or a fantastic outdoor

boma experience. Alternatively, you can enjoy a private dinner in our wine cellar.

We have 5 luxurious, individual suites where no detail has been overlooked. Each suite

exudes an air of tranquillity and has a private deck, underfl oor heating, magnifi cent

views from the bath and outdoor shower. Two of the suites are interconnected for use

as a family unit.

Contact Esiweni Lodge today to fi nd out about our introductory offer and you’ll soon

discover why we call this Big Six country.

Telephone: +27(0)36 636 9002/3 email: [email protected] Web: www.esiweni.co.zaTelephone: +27(0)36 636 9002/3 email: [email protected] Web: www.esiweni.co.za

Obert further explains that is why there is no electric fencing. “We walk our guests to and from their suites at night because elephants drink from the pool. They love the mineral salts. Besides, buffalo graze between the rooms.” Nambiti Plains is an intimate experience with Africa’s bushveld.

The modern décor enhances the African experience. The neutral palette is contrasted by the textures of rough loose-packed stonewalls, raw wood and strong geometric designs. The spaciousness of a suite is more ‘house’ than ‘room’. Each suite has under-floor heating and is com-pletely secluded with 180-degree views from the bath, outdoors ‘bush shower’ and private wrap around deck.

For those that can tear themselves away from indulging in the luxury of their suite, the main lodge offers guests a reading corner, comfortable lounge with stone fireplace and a separate dining room with two stone fireplaces, perfect to enjoy a

cozy dinner on a chilly winter’s evening. Leading off the expansive deck overlook-ing the pool and waterhole is a separate bar area and open boma.

When asked what he thinks makes the Nambiti Plains’ experience special, Obert immediately responds, “The staff. We want our guests to have an authentic African lodge experience,” says Obert. Obert first points out the excellent cuisine Nambiti Plains offer guests and that veg-etarian, vegan, kosher or halaal guests are fully catered.

Obert goes on to describe how cultural heritage can enrich guest’s understand-ing. Giving examples Obert explains that the boma is not only a place for a deli-cious braai under the stars but is steeped in tradition as a gathering place. Game drives are an opportunity for guests to gain insight into the traditional medicinal uses of plants and wildlife antics can be interpreted through African culture by the guide.

Obert concludes by saying that Nambiti Plains is special because, “It is a place where you can drop everything from city life, and just sit still, meditate and relax.” I take his advice. Drink in hand, I find a comfortable seat on the deck and soak up the tranquil sounds of Nambiti’s plains in the African sun.

Open deck living off the bedroom suite with the adjoining ensuite bathroom.




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RUGGED GLEN

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Ladysmith

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PIETERMARITZBURG

Winterton

Bergville

Frere

Rosetta

Nottingham Rd

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Himeville

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R617

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MIDMAR DAM 7

Weenen

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KWAZULU-NATAL

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FREESTATE


Molumong

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Phuthatijaba

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CATHEDRAL PEAK





the lavender co.




lodge

riverside cottages





castle hotel


the nest

caley lodge

drak. boys choir




all out adventures

hlalanathi

montusisungabala

little switzerland

ground cover


inversada



Cathkin Peak 3148m


GiantsCastle 3314m


Mafadi 3450m






the cavern

witsieshoek


lake navarone

penwarn

sani valley lodge

sani pass hotel

zintuloumzololozo







Where: 3.5 hrs from Jhb and 2.5 hrs from Dbn. Drive straight through Ladysmith on the N11 Road towards Newcastle from the last robots leaving Ladysmith travel for ± 7kms. Follow the N11 through Ladysmith and continue on this road. For Nambiti Plains take South Gate entrance. For Esiweni, ignore the signs that say Nambiti as these will lead you to the South Gate. Wait until you see the sign that says Elandslaagte and turn right. You will then be on the Glencoe Dundee R602. Travel for 2.3kms. Turn right Elandslaagte P555 (dirt road) Cross railway line - follow Elandslaagte sign for 200m Turn left fol-lowing Elandslaagte sign. Drive 3.8km to Nambiti North Gate.

Important to note: There is no self-drive in the reserve. Lodges’ vehicles collect guests from secure parking just within gate entrances.

ESIWENI LODGEAccommodation: 5 luxury suites including a family suite and a honey-moon suite.

Important to note: Lodge is on the edge of cliff and has unfenced pool so does not accept children under 10.

Cost: includes all meals and game drives (2 per day). Single rate is R2400 pppn; 2 guests are R1600 pppns.

Contact: Phone: 036 636 9002/3 Fax: 086 546 4045 Email: [email protected]

NAMBITI PLAINS PRIVATE GAME LODGEAccommodation: 5 luxury suites including a family suite - two sepa-rate suites accessed by a common entrance.

Important to note: Should you want to book a family experience at the lodge, the full lodge will need to be reserved. Children u12 yrs R1325 pppn, 12 yrs and above R2650 pppn. No triple rooms.

Cost: R2650 pppns. Single rate is R3445. Includes all meals, one house wine, teas and coffees, game drives (2 per day) with snacks and beverages (sundowner drink per person per drive, excl. estate/sparkling wine), and light laundry. Refer to website for specials. Optional extras are battlefield tours and Drakensberg activities.


With a view like this,you could say we have the big six.

Esiweni Lodge is situated in the malaria-free, Big 5, Nambiti Private Game Reserve

near Ladysmith. With our unmatched cliff-top views over the Sundays River, we like

to think of ourselves as a Big Six Reserve! After a memorable game drive, there is

no better way to relax than with a fi ne South African wine around our rim-fl ow pool

overlooking the spectacular scenery. We also offer refi ned dining or a fantastic outdoor

boma experience. Alternatively, you can enjoy a private dinner in our wine cellar.

We have 5 luxurious, individual suites where no detail has been overlooked. Each suite

exudes an air of tranquillity and has a private deck, underfl oor heating, magnifi cent

views from the bath and outdoor shower. Two of the suites are interconnected for use

as a family unit.

Contact Esiweni Lodge today to fi nd out about our introductory offer and you’ll soon

discover why we call this Big Six country.

Telephone: +27(0)36 636 9002/3 email: [email protected] Web: www.esiweni.co.zaTelephone: +27(0)36 636 9002/3 email: [email protected] Web: www.esiweni.co.za

INGUDLANE LODGE

BATTLE FIELDS – DUNDEE – KZN

Ingudlane translates from Zulu as ‘a little shelf for precious items’. It’s an appropriate name for Ingudlane Lodge. This little gem just outside Dundee in northern KwaZulu-Natal, consists of a main lodge on the crest of a hill overlooking self-catering chalets situated in a private game reserve in the valley below. While the main lodge with restaurant, a lounge and bar is open to the public for meals, and is an ideal wedding or conference venue, the chalets are private and secluded havens for a bushveld getaway.

A play area in the grounds of the main lodge gives hint that this lodge is child friendly. It was with this in mind that the owners, the Klusner family, have made choices when introducing new game to the reserve. An example would be hippo. While there are numerous watering holes

Lisa Köhler stayed over at Ingudlane Lodge near Dundee and found that besides the children friendly game reserve that it was a perfect springboard to the surrounding battlefields.


on the reserve, the Klusners consciously decided that guests should rather feel free to walk in the reserve. The established footpaths can be enjoyed with a guide or unguided and are particularly suitable for parents introducing children to a game experience.

The 1650 ha reserve, combined from three farms five years ago, boasts an abundance of birdlife and good viewing of giraffe, zebra and numerous buck spe-cies. Varied in its terrain from open plains to dense indigenous bush, the reserve’s numerous hills present sweeping views of the surrounding region from crests. For visitors not inclined towards energetic walks, the lodge offers game drives in an open vehicle with a qualified guide. The reserve has well made tar, concrete and dirtroads; the owners have a civil engineering background. Guests can also breakfast in the bush or enjoy the setting sun with drinks and snacks.

The deck of the main lodge, with its panoramic views of the hilly terrain, is perfect for sundowners. The restaurant offers a comprehensive a la carte menu. Wildside found the beef, which is sourced locally, particularly good and the fresh salads generous. Sunday buffet is particu-larly popular with folk from Dundee so booking is essential, including for guests staying in the self-catering chalets.

Chalets are immaculate. Décor is a blend of slate and comfortable furnish-ings in safari lodge style with abundance

of leather, wood and wrought iron. The chalets have two bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, an open plan living area lead-ing onto the verandah and plunge pool surrounded by lawns. A Weber is on hand for those preferring to braai than cook in the well-equipped kitchen.

Chalets have flat screen televisions so parents needn’t stress about entertaining children in the evening or missing that important match. For those wanting a hassle-free breakfast, (the restaurant isn’t open until lunch) the main lodge provides a filling breakfast basket as an optional extra. There is more than enough to take along for snacks later if you venture out to explore the surrounding area.

Ingudlane Lodge is in the heart of the battlefields region. Attractions include the Battle of Blood River Heritage Site, Isandlwana Battlefield and the Rorke’s Drift Museum. The lodge can arrange tours with outside operators on request. Talana Hill of Anglo-Boer War fame and its accompanying museum are just minutes down the road. The museum deserves a couple hours to explore thor-oughly. One of the many exhibits covers the extensive coal mining history of the area.

Today, Dundee’s precious resources are no longer found deep beneath the earth but are now above. Ingudlane Lodge – a tranquil bushveld escape and the ideal springboard to explore the rich cultural history of the region.


INGUDLANE LODGE

Where: Ingudlane Lodge is a private game reserve situated in northern KwaZulu-Natal, in the heart of the battlefields. The reserve is 5km’s from Dundee alongside the R33 to Vryheid.

Important to note: Lodge is child-friendly. There is no self-drive in the reserve, however guests can walk trails.

Accommodation: Self-catering cha-lets have two bedrooms, both with en suites, open plan living area and patio.

Cost: Bed only (self-catering) R650 pppn; Bed & Breakfast Basket R750 pppn; Children 0–3 yrs complimentary; Children 4–12 yrs 50% adult rate; Game Drive – adult R120, children R70.

Contact: Phone: 082 879 7734 Fax: 086 565 4811 Email: [email protected]

www.ingudlane.co.za

8 LUXURY SUITES • HORSEBACK SAFARIS • GAME DRIVES

BUSH WALKS • ARCHERY • CLAY TARGET SHOOTING

Tel: 034 - 413 3559 Fax: 034 - 413 1817 Cell: 083 229 2116Email: [email protected] www.pakamisa.co.za

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, with its panoramic mountain views overlooking the Pongola river valley,

awaits to rejuvenate your soul. Come and pamper yourself with luxurious accommodation, savour superb cuisine,

and relish fine wines. Catch the excitement of a horseback safari amongst the game or test your skills with a number of

outdoor adventure sports.

PAKAMISA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships. www.wildlands.co.za

INKOSI YEENTAKA OF THE DRAKENSBERG

Wildlands Conservation Trust Spor t for the Conser vation of our Wild Heritage

The Wildlands Conservation Trust supports formal conservation agencies through their Biodiversity Management Support Programme (BMSP). From July 2007 to March 2010 a range of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife projects received funding from Wildlands through their Conservation Capital Fund (CCF) as well as from the Bonitas Wild Series, a set of multisport challenges held across KwaZulu-Natal. Many of these projects seek to protect rare and endan-gered species and habitats, some of which are vulnerable to environmental crime such as poaching.

The Maluti-Drakensberg Vulture Project is work-ing to prevent the decline of cliff nesting vul-tures in the Maluti- Drakensberg mountains and surrounds where they are under major threat, largely due to poisoning and collision (and electrocution in the case of capes) with power lines. The Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) is endangered in southern Africa, there are only 50-100 breeding pairs left, and the Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres) is vulnerable and is endemic to southern Africa. Sonja Krüger, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife ecologist for the uKhahl-amba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, who has run the Vulture Project since 2000, has been monitoring the movements and nesting sites of these two species in the mountainous regions of the Drakensberg and Lesotho in order to determine their movement patterns and to identify possible threats to them.

Initially monitoring work was achieved through catching and tagging birds in order to identify them when they were sighted at feeding sites or in the air, and then in August 2007 the ability to more accurately track the movements of the birds became possible through the purchase and fitting of satellite transmitters. Devices were

PROTECTING THE (King of the Birds)

Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) © Chris Van Rooyen

fitted on three Bearded Vultures in the Underberg in 2007, and in 2008 a further two were fitted to Bearded Vulture chicks in Lesotho.

In June 2009 one of the chicks was found dead in the Eastern Cape, and forensic tests con-firmed poisoning. This can happen accidentally as livestock that are medicated and then die can be poisonous to vultures, or farmers may be trying to kill predators and Bearded Vultures are killed accidentally by eating the bait meant for predators like jackal. Vultures perform a vital function in getting rid of dead livestock, but some carcasses are lethal and it is a huge challenge for the Vulture Project to com-municate this. Vultures can also be poisoned by lead from a bul-let present in a carcass. Through workshops and distribution of media the project attempts to educate on the dangers of poi-sons to vultures.

In August 2009 Sonja Krüger and her team were able to fit further satellite transmitters to five Bearded Vultures and one Cape Vulture in the Underberg region. In March 2010 all six birds were active and data was indicat-ing that one bird was moving further afield than others. “One of the male Bearded Vultures is a year older and he is moving in an area of 44 thousand square kms, more than twice that of the younger birds, moving between Lesotho, KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape,” Krüger said. Over time they will gather data from these transmitters that will indicate the patterns in their movements and this understanding helps Sonja’s team focus on the areas the birds frequent most and the project can actively make the areas safer and also provide safe food sources.

A competition was run towards the end of 2009 in schools near the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park to “Name the Vultures”, which aimed to find

names for the vultures that were fitted with sat-ellite transmitters during 2009. Winning names such as Umcocimathafa, which means “cleans up the environment”, Inkosi Yeentaka which means “king of birds” and Umadlizidumbu, which means “eats carcasses” is a clear indication that the children are learning about vultures and what they are about.

The poisoning of vultures is happening acciden-tally but it also occurs through environmental crime. Poachers are poisoning vultures with

the deadly agricultural chemical Aldicarb amongst other poisons (known by the brand name Temik) in order to use their body parts for muthi (traditional medicine), as it is believed that they possess clairvoyant pow-ers. Steve McKean, Resource Ecologolist for the uKhahlamba Drakensberg region, explains that the use of vulture parts for muti is a serious health risk to the human population. "As little as two grams of Temik can kill an adult human. In whatever form the vulture parts are being used by tradition-al medicine practitioners, they need to be made aware that they are not only killing red data spe-cies but may be poisoning their clients if the muthi is ingested."

Krüger said that there was con-cern about an increase in vulture poaching during the 2010 Soccer World Cup as vulture parts were used for predictions in gam-bling. There were plans in place to increase feeding of vultures within the protected areas to encourage them to remain where they would perhaps be less vul-nerable to poaching. The provi-sion of food at vulture feeding sites is an attempt to provide a

constant safe food source to birds within their range. Many farmers are becoming involved in vulture conservation by disposing of car-casses safely on their properties and creating vulture “restaurants”. Safe, known sources of foods for the vultures are being created to

minimise the risks to the birds both in protected areas and on privately owned land.

Said Krüger of the progress made possible in the last three years: “We have come a long way and raised awareness hugely. Vultures are now on the agenda. Poison intervention and inter-actions with power lines remain the biggest threats to the birds and we need to keep the pressure on to help prevent the further decline in the numbers of both the Bearded and the Cape Vulture.”

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships. www.wildlands.co.za

Sonja Krüger Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife ecologist for the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. “We have come a long way and raised awareness hugely. Vultures are now on the agenda. Poison intervention and interactions with power lines remain the biggest threats to the birds and we need to keep the pressure on to help prevent the further decline in the numbers of both the Bearded and the Cape Vulture.”

Wildlands Conservation Trust Spor t for the Conser vation of our Wild Heritage

A trip without your favourite gadget or essential outdoor tool is unthinkable. Here are some new indispensable items to make your journey more pleasurable.

WildGadgetsW

Lenzz-Rezzt Bean BagUseful tool for outdoor photographersThe well-designed double pocket beanbag improves the stability and reduces vibration and movement of long lenses. Photographers will find this function especially useful when taking photos from inside a vehicle. No more blurry photos caused by “camera shake!”

R280

www.cameraprops.co.za

Maloti Mountain MoccasinsSheepskin lined moccasins.Maloti mountain moccasins are for indoor/outdoor wear. Comfortable sheep-skined lined leather upper and rubber sole. Handcrafted in South Africa. Unisex fittings, various colours available. Size 2-15.

R350 including postage

email: [email protected] cell: 083 650 1783

TabardA world class mosquito and insect repellent.Tabard remains the best known brand in its category in Africa. Tabard is not only used to keep mosquitoes at bay, but works effectively against most other insects.

www.acorngroup.co.za

HI TECV-lite Altitude Ultra WPiA extremely lightweight boot that offers all the ankle support needed for trails. The ion-mask water-repellent technology assists making the boot 100% waterproof, so your feet will stay dry. The leather upper provides insulation in colder months of winter, and ensures breathing on a warmer afternoon.

R1399 (mens) and R1299 (ladies)

www.hi-tec.com


GE

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IZM

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Awesome Tools – Fenix®Offers you big light performance in a compact EDC (Every Day Carry) FormatThis Fenix PD20 Torch features 4 Output options, Strobe & SOS modes. Delivering from 10 to 180 lumens – amazing brightness from an 8cm long torch with a single 3V CR123 Lithium battery. The torch comes complete with 1 X 3V CR123 Lithium battery, pocket clip, belt pouch, spare O-rings and switch cover. It has a 2 year guarantee.

suggested retail R699.00 www.awesometools.co.za

Corporate companies drive change and improve lives. In this annual corporate social responsibility feature, Wildside pays tribute to these companies that are making a difference through considered projects that are sustainable with direct benefits.

A group of previously disadvantaged women from the Bhobhoyi district, supported by NPC-CIMPOR, have embarked on a journey and are realising their dream of starting a co-operative.

The Bhobhoyi Organic Agricultural Project, which falls under the Social and Labour Plan, began early in March 2009. With full financial assistance from NPC-CIMPOR and The Organic Farms Group as project managers, 45 women received intensive training, both practical and theoretical, over a two-month period before they began working on the land.

Eight hectares of land was sponsored by the KwaNdwalane Tribal Authority, 4 hectares of which was cultivated using organic farming methods. In addition to the sophisticated, state-of-the-art equipment purchased by NPC-CIMPOR for the beneficiaries, a shelter and a nursery, for private subsistence, were built. The aim is that the project be funded for three years until it achieves long-term self-sustainability.

A full-time mentor from the Organic Farms Group is also assisting the women. Despite the fact that 20 group members had left the initiative by late 2009, the remaining 25 have con-tinued their work with great commitment and enthusiasm – and with positive results.

Current crops include spinach, brinjals, cabbage and green beans and the project has managed to identify and supply clients in the Ugu District, including Spar supermarkets and the Ugu Fresh Produce Market. The greatest challenge has been the bad weather in December which made it difficult to produce enough to satisfy its customers.

Focus in 2010 will be on consolidating the Bhobhoyi Organic Agricultural Project’s market position and keeping up with mar-ket demand. The Hibiscus Municipality has given valuable assistance by providing rel-evant support and market identification.

C O R P O R A T E S O C I A L R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y F E A T U R E

NPC CIMPOR

Bhobhoyi Women Launch a Dream


Corporate Social Responsibility

Recently the Skukuza Stadium in the Kruger National Park was packed with school-going children, their teachers, parents and friends, for a day of entertainment, interspersed with speeches and presentations of various reports and activities from the ‘My Acre of Africa Trust’. These reports gave an overview of the activities, experiences and successes to-date of the Trust, including the Kids in Kruger Programme.

Nothing could dampen the children’s enthusiasm as they patiently waited for their turn to perform their various activi-ties. The teachers and proud parents looked on as each repre-senting school from outlying areas of the Kruger National Park, performed to the guests’ delight.

In pride of place next to the stage, were two Mitsubishi Triton 4x4 bakkies with colourful ‘Kids in Kruger’ decals, making them easily identifiable. The event provided an ideal opportunity for the official hand-over of the vehicles to the Kids in Kruger Programme.

“These vehicles will provide courtesy transportation to the Kids in Kruger Programme for an initial one year period,” said Annette Erasmus, Sales Manager, Mitsubishi Motors.

“We are pleased that the programme has proven to be such a success in the communities they serve, and that this courtesy transportation will further assist in the sustainability of the project,” added Erasmus.

Amongst the VIP guests of community and traditional lead-ers, was Honourable Member of Parliament Sheila Sithole, who is also Member of Portfolio Committee in Parliament on the Environment. Honourable Sithole was escorted to take the stage by a procession of drum majorettes with all the pomp and splendour of royalty. Pleased with the day’s activities, Honourable Sithole told the children to keep up the good work she witnessed firsthand.

The keynote address was given by the Chairperson of the My Acre of Africa Trust, Mr. M Ramano. Emphasising the impor-tance of each individual’s role in saving the environment and acting responsibly, Mr Ramano warned of the consequences of not taking global warming seriously.

The schools and communities adjacent to the Kruger National park are the beneficiaries of the Kids in Kruger Project, which has seen more than 25 800 children and teach-

ers participate in its successful programmes. The project has been carefully structured to ensure that the maximum number of economic opportunities is provided to entrepreneurs from these local communities.

This was evident at the event, as one could see that the beautiful dance costumes were all locally made and worn with pride. The Kids in Kruger Project Steering Committee mem-bers were all present, witnessing the fruits of their hard work. Members of the committee include municipal councillors, teachers, businessmen, farmers, traditional and youth leaders,

Mitsubishi Triton drives the Kids in Kruger Programme

C O R P O R A T E S O C I A L R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y F E A T U R EWILDSIDE 2of4 2010 68

and members of the public from the respective communities, give of their time to ensure that the projects are implemented.

The Kids in Kruger Programme’s core activities focus on environmental education. They are aimed at primarily giving children living in disadvantaged communities adjacent to Kruger National Park an opportunity to enjoy, appreciate and help pre-serve their natural heritage. Road shows are held annually with a purpose to update community stakeholders about the various programmes implemented and this ’Open Day’ formed part of these road shows.

Continuous participation with the local communities is crucial to the success of


C O R P O R A T E S O C I A L R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y F E A T U R E WILDSIDE 2of4 2010 69

the programmes, not just from a broader social development perspective, but also to ensure that the projects are accepted by the local community, who also take ownership.

Project staff who work for the Kids in Kruger Programme are sourced from the local communities living adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

A number of students who have completed their tertiary education, are trained as Shadow Guides – trained on the environmental interpretation and education – and are employed to educate the students from these schools on how to live in harmony with one’s natural surroundings.

This is of critical importance to the ongoing survival of the Kruger National

Park and the preservation of South Africa’s heritage.

“The two Mitsubishi Triton vehicles are robust and reliable and will go a long way to assist the teachers in imple-menting a large number of activities, including greening and environmental activities, which all form part of this successful programme,” added Erasmus.

“The designated drivers of the Mitsubishi Triton bakkies will shortly undergo off-road training through the local Mitsubishi dealership in Nelspruit. This specialised training will ensure that the drivers are able to go off-road in a safe and responsible manner,” concluded Erasmus.

Local entrepreneurs are engaged to cater for the students’ catering needs,

and most importantly, transportation requirements to attend the various field trips and camps organised by the Kids in Kruger Programme. All guests, includ-ing the children benefitted from the day in true community spirit.

For further information on the Mitsubishi Triton Drives the Kids in Kruger Programme:Shirle GreigTel: 012 677 1904Fax: 012 677 1682e-mail: [email protected]


Wind Bag by David Muirhead

A while ago I was standing gazing up at the Amphitheatre in the Drakensberg, feeling ant-sized and awe struck. The man beside me sighed with deep feeling and then unexpectedly said he could smell fish.

“What an overpowering scent of plaice,” he said.

I sniffed the air and surreptitiously checked the front of my shirt for any residual crumbs from my hake and chips lunch.

“I can’t smell fish at all,” I said confidently.

The serene look vanished from his face.

“Who said anything about fish?” he asked.

“You did,” I said “you said you could smell plaice.”

He looked puzzled for a moment.

“A sense of place,” he said with heavy emphasis.

Then it dawned on me of course: place as in place, not plaice as in fish.

Most South African’s have never heard of plaice. They are bottom dwellers that reluctantly find their way out of the sea and onto British dinner tables, though not in the numbers of yesteryear. The humble plaice is fighting a losing battle against extinction like everything else we eat with chips and tomato sauce.

“Aha,” I said, “a sense of place.”

“Exactly.”

“Exactly,” I repeated. “This place makes sense.”

He looked at me. Signs or irritation were moving across his craggy features like the clouds nibbling the high peaks of the Berg.

“It doesn’t have to make sense,” he said.

“What’s the point in saying it then?” I asked.

He heaved another sigh, not filled with rapture anymore, with annoyance.

“Not the phrase, the place,” he said loudly.

I left it there. I mean you don’t argue with someone bigger than you, especially when the knuckles on his clenched fists have turned white. In those circumstances the best plan is to look at your watch and hurry away to an urgent appointment.

I wonder what it really means though: a sense of place. It sounds like something a politically correct American academic dreamed up at some point in time. It’s not a phrase anyone is ever likely to use in a queue at the offices of the South African Revenue Service, no matter how much SARS might try and spruce up the place, or in a modern football stadium, at least not while there’s a match on. Sensible places apparently prefer to be deserted, or very nearly so, because they abhor noise and excessive movement. Virtually all of them are extremely old.

Oddly enough many places that trigger reverential awe and metaphysical wonder nowadays were once very noisy and very busy. The Coliseum in Rome is a good example and Stonehenge, in all probability, may well have been another. Like other ancient human artifacts that tweak our souls, such places owe their modern

mystical credentials to the passage of immense amounts of time, during which they have decayed with grace and dignity. In their heyday they were more often than not scenes of bloody murder and mayhem, but intermittent earthquakes and ten thousand days of rain have long since obliterated the forensic evidence.

Even natural places need offbeat architecture to qualify as mystical though; for people to be able to say they experience a special weird feeling just by being there. No one ever experiences a sense of place out on the wide blue yonder precisely because everything looks exactly the same in all directions. A lone yachtsman might be overwhelmed by a sense of abject terror, not to mention regret at having been so daft as to be there in the first place, when he sees sixty-foot waves rolling menacingly towards him. But there’s no mystery about that, just an awful lot of piled up water.

On land though nature is much better than any of our antique forebears at coming up with enchanted places. As if to rub the point home, many of the most remarkable landscapes seem like immensely improved versions of something we humans might have cooked up if we’d only had the time, twenty million years, say, and the geophysical equipment: Giant’s Castle, Cathedral Peak, the Amphitheatre. Maybe giving them names like that is our way of trying to make sense of such places. It helps but it will never be enough, and maybe that’s how it should be. Like the man with the knuckles implied: a place that fills you with awe doesn’t have to make sense; magic never does.

A Scent of Plaice



KwaZulu-Natal Durban / Battlefields / Berg / Midlands / South Coast

Eleven on Avent

We are situated in the Cowies Hill area of Pinetown and are within walking distance of shops and nearby businesses.

A full English Breakfast is served and home cooked evening meals are available by arrangement at a cost of R 80.00 per person. Both of your proprietors, Arlette and Crawford, are passionate about cooking! You will leave with pleasant memories!

Our luxurious rooms are furnished with queen sized beds, desk, television, easy chair and bathroom on suite. The suites are independent from the proprietors premises which

affords our guests privacy.

Rates: Single R 480.00 per night • Single sharing R 350.00 per night

11 Avent Road, Pinetown 3610 • Contact : Arlette Reid: 072-4022305 Crawford Reid: 082-5685869 • Fax: 031-7010455 • e-mail: [email protected]

Eleven on Avent B E D & B R E A K F A S T

KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast / Zululand Free State

Tel. (035) 592 9728, 072 446 1525www.kosi.co.za

Guided birding trailsKOSI BAY

Comfortable self catering

lodge and luxury guesthouse set

among tall trees in a quiet rural

area close to beaches, lakes & game parks.

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast Travel & Adventure Guide:

Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505Email: [email protected]

T H E P L A C E T O B E F O U N D

WILDSIDETRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

Tel: Themba 073 161 8189

Muzi Pan Canoe AdventuresCommunity based accredited canoe adventure guides on Muzi Pan


Tel: 058 623 0282 • Email: [email protected] • www.lalanathi.co.za

LALA NATHI GUEST HOUSELa La Nathi is the ideal stopover choice, situated on the N3 just outside the historic town of Harrismith in the Eastern Free State Highlands and a haven of peace for the weary

traveller. The Drakensberg mountains, Clarens, and Golden Gate are within easy reach.

Field Guide & Nature Training

Creating awareness trough

Wilderness [email protected] Contact: 083 726 3826

Professional Field Guide (6 months) FGASA Level 1 / FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Ubuntu Wild (Personal Development) Specialist Courses: Marine Guiding, Birding Specialist, Butterfly Guiding

Professional Field Guide (6 m) FGASA Level 1 (30 days) FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Next Level 1 course Starts 5 October ‘09

Now operating from a new unfenced camp in the Thanda

Private Game Reserve, KZN www.bhejanenaturetraining.com

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Free State Guide:




Eastern Cape

Mozambique The Kob Inn is the perfect venue for your special holiday.

Overnight accommodation and three great meals per day!

For further info contact: Kob Inn Beach Resort

Tel 047 4990011, Fax 047 4990016 Email : [email protected]

www.kobinn.co.za

barrabarraBarra Lodge Flamingo Bay Pomene Lodge

RESERVATIONSTel: +27 11 [email protected] www.barraresorts.comwww.barraresorts.com


Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Eastern Cape Guide:




Mbotyi is the perfect place for anyone looking for a peaceful and tranquil holiday or for the adventurous wanting to explore the many beautiful and wild treasures this coast has to offer.

Telephone: 039 253 7200/1 • Cellphone: 082 674 1064 • Fax: 039 253 7202 • www.mbotyi.co.za

Mbotyi is the perfect place for anyone looking for a peaceful and tranquil holiday or for the adventurous wanting to explore the many beautiful and wild treasures this coast has to offer.

Telephone: 039 253 7200/1 • Cellphone: 082 674 1064 • Fax: 039 253 7202 • www.mbotyi.co.za

wildside magazine winter 2010

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