winning at the speed of fashion
TRANSCRIPT
Winning at the Speed of Fashion
2Copyright © 2016 Accenture All rights reserved.
KEY TENANTS. WINNING AT THE SPEED OF FASHIONTraditional brands are applying the key tenants of Fast Fashion leaders to win in faster, digital, omnichannel marketplace
BEING RIGHT. Bringing on-trend products to target customers
BEING FAST. Delivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
BEING EFFICIENT. Creating lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
KEY TENANTS~ 10%
~ 5%
~30%
REVENUE.through trend-right, customer-centric assortments
COSTS.through smarter product component sourcing and reuse
SPEED.through governed design and product development lifecycle processes
LOYALTY.of lifetime customers achieved by being right and being fast
AVERAGE BENEFITS
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OVERVIEW. FAST FASHION VALUE STREAMUnderstanding which Fast Fashion tenant is most important to your brand informs where along the value stream you want to invest in first
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VALUE STREAM CASE STUDIESUnderstanding which Fast Fashion tenant is most important to your brand informs where along the value stream you want to invest in first
INNOVATION.lululemon quickly brings innovations to market through their “lab” stores
PLANNING.Zara leads in fast and agile calendar management
DESIGN.Theory realizes the benefits of 3D design capabilities
DEVELOPMENT.Levi Strauss is on the edge of material development innovation
COMMERCIALIZATION.Brands continue to struggle with managing FOB and landed product costs across their value stream
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COMPANY OVERVIEWlululemon athletica has evolved into a global lifestyle brand for those seeking to live “happy, healthy, and fun” lives
INNOVATION CAPABILITIES
• Countries: 373 locations globally, headquartered in Vancouver, Canada
• Leadership: CEO Laurent Potdevin is the latest successor to founder Chip Wilson
• Fun Fact: The company was named based on the results of a 100 person survey; the “A” in the logo mismatching the company name is a remnant of the company’s original rejected name
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LULULEMON LABIn 2009 lululemon launched their “lab” stores: a brick and mortar retail location where designers test and get guest feedback on new innovations
INNOVATION CAPABILITIES
PRODUCT TESTING
Test new color, materials, and even product lines, with as little as 100 units
per SKU
CUT AND SEW
Styles are developed, engineered, and prototyped in an open workshop on the
sales floor
DESIGN IN MARKET
Sales Associates are the actual Designers and Technical Developers in-store to get immediate feedback on what
consumers are buying
Source: http://www.instyle.com/beauty/lululemon-lab-concept-store-fitness-nyc
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INNOVATION MANAGEMENTBrands have to change how they go to market to take advantage of the customer feedback they get from test stores, like lululemon’s lab
INNOVATION CAPABILITIES
PRODUCT LIFECYCLE CONSIDERATIONS
CALENDAR MANAGEMENTCreate a go-to-market calendar that provides for a clear path for bringing innovations to market, in-season, based on results from the lab store
DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT INTEGRATIONRely on an integrated digital design and PLM platform to quickly turn innovations into technical blueprints that can be scaled for full commercialization
MATERIAL CAPACITY PLANNINGHave the ability to quickly scale material capacity plan, without losing your margin to the cost of doing business just in time
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WHICH FAST FASHION TENANTS IS LULULEMON REALIZING THROUGH CONCEPT AND INNOVATION MANAGEMENT?
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
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COMPANY OVERVIEWInditex’s flagship brand Zara has positioned itself as the market leader in the world of Fast to Market Fashion
• Countries: 88 Countries, headquartered in Spain
• Fun Fact: Over 1 Billion products are manufactured at INDITEX owned factories
Source: Planet Retail, Accenture Proprietary Framework
PLANNING CAPABILITIES
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OVERVIEW. CALENDAR MANAGEMENTHigh performing fashion brands effectively compete in a fast to market environment by managing their lines of business on the “right” model
Two season model that includes innovation as a part of traditional planning
Two season model that spins-off innovation as a part of traditional planning
Perpetual season model, delivering smaller collections to market versus seasonal assortments
TRADITIONAL MULTI-TRACK PERPETUAL SEASON
In-Season Flexibility
Speed to Market
Cross-Team Coordination
In-Season Flexibility
Speed to Market
Cross-Team Coordination
In-Season Flexibility
Speed to Market
Cross-Team Coordination
BASIC ASSORTMENTS FASHION ASSORTMENTS FASHION ASSORTMENTS
PLANNING CAPABILITIES
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INVESTING IN CALENDAR MANAGEMENTInditex effectively manages multiple business models based on the nuances of each collection
MULTI-TRACK PERPETUAL SEASONPERPETUAL SEASON
Repeated styles like shirts, tank-tops, and pants
Weather-driven items like summer dresses and winter coats
Cat-walk and editorial influenced styles like jump-suits and rompers
Focused innovation team that develops products based on cat-walk, editorials, and celebrity trends
Take on a “test/learn” approach where initial styles are released in limited quantities to see what sells before scaling a full go to market
Foundational styles that are sourced well in advance of when they hit stores
BASICS SEASONAL FAST FASHION
35% 25% 40%
PLANNING CAPABILITIES
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WHICH FAST FASHION TENANTS IS ZARA REALIZING THROUGH CALENDAR MANAGEMENT?
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
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COMPANY OVERVIEWTheory has made a name for itself selling contemporary, high-quality, modern basics, reflecting the atheistic feel of New York City
DESIGN CAPABILITIES
• Leadership: CEO Andrew Rosen sold the brand to Japanese conglomerate Fast Retailing in 2009
• 3D Fun Facts: All of Theory’s FY17 Fall Seasonal collection will have been 3D designed
Source: Optitex Case Study
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INVESTING IN 3D DESIGNCEO Andrew Rosen wants Theory’s operations to be as innovative as its materials and products
DESIGN CAPABILITIES
“”
Theory as a company has always been on the forefront of what’s happening. For us, that is a big part of the DNA of our business. The innovation and execution of our clothing is what we stand for.
– Theory CEO Andrew Rosen on partnering with OPTITEX
Source: Optitex Case Study
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3D PRODUCT DESIGN BENEFITS3D product design facilitates the coherent communication of concepts across the entire Fast Fashion value stream
DESIGN CAPABILITIES
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BRAND COHERENCEVisualize what a line is going to actually look
like on the market
PHYSICAL SAMPLESHave accurate
renderings to support assortment adoption and
selling to Buyers
INNOVATIONDesign for what is possible
through advanced manufacturing, versus just
what you can sketch
DESIGN INTENTStart with accurate
Technical Packs and BOMs to communicate
intent to vendors
COLLABORATIONCapture design and
development edits both internally to the brand and externally with the vendors
SPEED TO MARKETUse rendering for marketing, packaging, and commerce
channels ahead of commercialization
Source: Optitex Case Study
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WHICH FAST FASHION TENANTS IS THEORY REALIZING THROUGH 3D DESIGN?
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
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COMPANY OVERVIEWLevi Strauss & Co. first introduced blue jeans in 1873 and has since grown into a global apparel brand, with a footprint across 110 countries
DEVELOPMENT CAPABILITIES
• Countries: Sold in over 110 countries, across 50,000 retail outlets
• Fun Fact: Belt loops were only introduced in 1922, decades after the first pair of Levi’s went to market in the late 1800’s
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INVESTING IN ADVANCED MATERIALSLaunching in Spring 2016 is Project Jacquard: Levi’s joint venture with Google to bring fashion and the world of innovation one in the same
DEVELOPMENT CAPABILITIES
Launching Spring 2016
Levi’s will use a conductive yarn, weaved into fabrics, making any clothing item into an interactive, connected, digital surface
This Isn’t a GadgetIn fact, this should reduce the number of gadgets people have to carry to stay connected
Create Something People Want to WearEveryone has that one pair of jeans they love, this one just brings that pair into the digital world
Foundation of HeritageLevi’s has been an apparel market leader for a century, they know what people want to wear
Speed to MarketLevi’s can incorporate Jacquard into their existing materials manufacturing seamlessly
Source: Project Jacquard
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MATERIAL TIERS AND INNOVATIONBrands are focusing innovation on advanced finished materials
DEVELOPMENT CAPABILITIES
FINISHED PRODUCTAssembled, final product ready for commercialization and consumer fulfillment
FINISHED MATERIALSTreated, dyed, and composed materials ready for assembly into a finished product; these have become more complex and proprietary to a specific fashion house
PROCESSED MATERIAL COMPONENTSPrepared inputs to support material production (e.g., thread, un-dyed fabrics) that can be sourced as a commodity
RAW MATERIALSCultivated inputs from a plant or animal
INNOVATION FOCUS
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ADVANCED MATERIALS MANAGEMENTThe focus on complex materials has changed how brands source and commercialize products
DEVELOPMENT CAPABILITIES
PRODUCT LIFECYCLE CONSIDERATIONS
DEMAND TRANSPARENCYUse a product development platform like PLM to aggregate demand for an advanced material across categories, lines, color, and size mix
IP PROTECTIONImprove supplier management through incentives and premeditations to protect the intellectual property behind the innovation
ECONOMIES OF SCALEReduce costs by formalizing the process for negotiating and sourcing materials at an enterprise level, 3 years in advance
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WHICH FAST FASHION TENANTS IS LEVI’S REALIZING THROUGH ADVANCED MATERIAL MANAGEMENT ?
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
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PRODUCT COSTINGEstimating and confirming the total cost of a product from an estimated FOB at the start of the season, to an ALC at the end of a season
COMMERCIALIZATION CAPABILITIES
reconcile ALC at the end of a season based on actual POs and invoices, compliant with SOX if necessary
post-season
SU 16
$$
ALC
use a multiplier based on historic freight, volume, labor, and engineering
costs to determine the ELC
commercialization
calendar milestone >go to market
SU 16
β$
ELC
determine refined CBD based on layering in components (e.g.
materials, colour, trims)
design & development
SU 16
$CBD
calendar milestone >category design review
decision > “go” or “no-go” style based on if CBD > FOB
calculate a Target FOB at style level on Line Plan based on historic performance of a similar style
planning
$FOB
SU 12 - 15
$FOB
SU 16
calendar milestone >line review
decision > +/- target FOB based on merchant discretion
• Clear decision-making governance rights and trusted data across functional silos
• Scenario plan cost by changing CBD factors
• Incrementally plan Line down-stream
• Multiplier with analytics engine of historic cost data
• Use ELC as a determining factor in “go/no-go”
• Clear ramifications to Merchandisers for ALC > FOB
KEY: Proposed Solutions
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WHICH FAST FASHION TENANTS ARE BRANDS REALIZING THROUGH COST MANAGEMENT?
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
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KEY TAKEAWAYS
Being RIGHT Being FAST Being EFFICIENTBringing on-trend products to target
customersDelivering the product when it’s needed, faster than competitors
Creating a lean, cost efficient, end-to-end operations
What are competitors doing to win in a faster, digital, omnichannel, fashion marketplace?
INCREASE REVENUEwith trendy, customer-centric assortments and innovations
DECREASE COSTSthrough smarter product component sourcing and reuse
INCREASE SPEEDto market through smarter planning and streamlined process
IMPROVE LOYALTYof lifetime customers achieved by being right and being fast
What are the benefits of these investments?
QUESTIONS? Contact one of our Fashion Industry Advisors in the “Meet the Team” section of our website