Woven FabricsFor applications where more than one fibre orientation is required, a fabric combining 0° and 90° fibre

orientations is useful.

Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacing of warp (0°) fibres and weft (90°) fibres in a regular pattern or

weave style. The fabric's integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the fibres. Drape (the ability

of a fabric to conform to a complex surface), surface smoothness and stability of a fabric are controlled

primarily by the weave style. The following is a description of some of the more commonly found weave styles:

Plain

Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre. The fabric is symmetrical, with good stability

and reasonable porosity. However, it is the most difficult of the weaves to drape, and the high level of fibre

crimp imparts relatively low mechanical properties compared with the other weave styles. With large fibres

(high tex) this weave style gives excessive crimp and therefore it tends not to be used for very heavy fabrics.

Twill

One or more warp fibres alternately weave over and under two or more weft fibres in a regular repeated

manner. This produces the visual effect of a straight or broken diagonal 'rib' to the fabric. Superior wet out and

drape is seen in the twill weave over the plain weave with only a small reduction in stability. With reduced

crimp, the fabric also has a smoother surface and slightly higher mechanical properties.

Satin

Satin weaves are fundamentally twill weaves modified to produce fewer intersections of warp and weft. The

‘harness’ number used in the designation (typically 4, 5 and 8) is the total number of fibres crossed and passed

under, before the fibre repeats the pattern. A ‘crowsfoot’ weave is a form of satin weave with a different stagger

in the re-peat pattern. Satin weaves are very flat, have good wet out and a high degree of drape. The low crimp

gives good mechanical properties. Satin weaves allow fibres to be woven in the closest proximity and can

produce fabrics with a close ‘tight’ weave. However, the style’s low stability and asymmetry needs to be

considered. The asymmetry causes one face of the fabric to have fibre running predominantly in the warp

direction while the other face has fibres running predominantly in the weft direction. Care must be taken in

assembling multiple layers of these fabrics to ensure that stresses are not built into the component through this

asymmetric effect.

Basket

Basket weave is fundamentally the same as plain weave except that two or more warp fibres alternately

interlace with two or more weft fibres. An arrangement of two warps crossing two wefts is designated 2x2

basket, but the arrangement of fibre need not be symmetrical. Therefore it is possible to have 8x2, 5x4, etc.

Basket weave is flatter, and, through less crimp, stronger than a plain weave, but less stable. It must be used

on heavy weight fabrics made with thick (high tex) fibres to avoid excessive crimping.

Leno

Leno weave improves the stability in ‘open’ fabrics which have a low fibre count. A form of plain weave in which

adjacent warp fibres are twisted around consecutive weft fibres to form a spiral pair, effectively ‘locking’ each

weft in place. Fabrics in leno weave are normally used in con-junction with other weave styles because if used

alone their openness could not produce an effective composite component.

Mock Leno

A version of plain weave in which occasional warp fibres, at regular intervals but usually several fibres apart,

deviate from the alternate under-over interlacing and instead interlace every two or more fibres. This happens

with similar frequency in the weft direction, and the overall effect is a fabric with increased thickness, rougher

surface, and additional porosity.

Woven Fabric TypesBuckramIt is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated

with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support

and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures

etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other

articles.

CambricCambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It

is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.

CasementCasement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp

yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for

dresses.

Cheese Cloth

It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric

consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and

hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways

that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but

also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.

ChiffonChiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally

these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They

are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the

problem of shrinkage.

ChintzChintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish

which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid

colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of

cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas,

aprons and draperies.

CorduroyIt is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form

of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.

CrepeA silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by

highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar

crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish.

It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.

Denim

It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually

coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is

made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very

popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often

napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.

DrillIt is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in

white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and

uniforms.

FlannelFlannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft

handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric.

Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.

This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also

used to protect children from cold atmosphere.

GabardineGabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more

number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in

2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used

for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.

GeorgetteGeorgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic

rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it

was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.

It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.

Kashmir SilkKashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or

printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's

wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually

embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.

KhadiKhadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven.

They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are

known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and

household textiles.

LawnLawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various

finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish.

It is mainly used as lining in dress.

MulmulIt is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than

muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees.

MuslinMuslin is a light weight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or

bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials.

Organdy

Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to

make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women's wear.

Poplin

Poplin is a medium weight, cotton fabric hving a fine weft rib. it is generally used for

shirting, dresses and upholstery.

SheetingThese are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven

fabrics woven eigther in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different

widths. High quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weve with a width of 64" x

58" and in twill weave with a width of 60"x72".

TaffetaTaffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made

with silk fibres but now it is also made in rayon. It has a characteristic finish which

produces crispness. It is used as women's evening wear.

TissueIt is a fine fabric either made in silk or man made fibre. They are characteristically

interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are

used as women's dress material, sarees etc.

VelvetIt is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon.

The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for

women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are

single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as

semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp

and single in weft 2x1).

PongeeFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

Pongee is a soft thin woven cloth. In the early 20th century, pongee was an important export from China to the United States. Pongee is still woven in silk by many mills across China, especially along the banks of the Yangtze at mills in Sichuan, Anhui, Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces. . Generally it varies in weight from 36 to about 50gm/sq m. In lighter variants, it is called Paj. It is used as a blouse weight or lining silk.

CamletFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

Camlet, also commonly known as camelot or camblet, is a woven fabric that might have originally been made of camel or goat's hair, later chiefly of goat's hair and silk, or of wool and cotton.[1] The original form of this cloth was very valuable; the term later came to be applied to imitations of the original eastern fabric.[2]

In the 18th century, England, France, Holland, and Flanders were the chief places of its manufacture; Brussels exceeded them all in the beauty and quality of its camlets, followed by England.[3]

A variety of terms have been used for camlet in different forms:

Figured camlets are of one color, on which are stamped various figures, flowers, foliages, etc. The figures were applied with hot irons, passed together with the fabric, under a press. In the 18th century, these were chiefly brought from Amiens and Flanders. In antiquity, figured camlets were much more sought after than in modern times.

Water camlets, after weaving, received a certain preparation with water; and were afterwards passed under a hot press, giving them a smoothness and lustre.[3]

Waved camlets feature impressed waves, as on tabbies.[3]

Manufacturers of camlets had to take care not to introduce any unnecessary pleats in the fabric, as they were almost impossible to undo. This difficulty was so notorious, that a proverb existed, stating that someone "is like a camlet—he has taken his pleat."[3]

voile

Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of 100% cotton or cotton blends including linen or polyester. The term comes from French, and means veil. Because of its light weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft furnishing. In hot countries, voile is used as window treatments and mosquito nets. When used as curtain material, voile is similar to net curtains.

Voiles are available in a range of patterns and colours (unlike net curtains, which are generally white or off-white). Because of their semitransparent quality, voile curtains are made using specially manufactured heading tape that is less easily noticeable through the fabric. Voile fabric is also used in dress-making, either in multiple layers or laid over a second material. Voile is very similar to chiffon, which is also used in dress-making

Dazzle

Dazzle is a type of polyester fabric that is widely used in making clothes like basketball uniforms, football uniforms, rugby ball uniforms and even casual clothing because it absorbs moisture quickly. It is a lightweight fabric that allows air to circulate easily around the body. Dazzle is becoming increasingly popular in sports uniforms and even casual clothing.

Dazzle fabric is distinguished by the pattern of tiny holes in the weave of the material. Often made of synthetic fibers as well as cotton/synthetic blends, dazzle wear is usually sleek and shiny. To the touch, dazzle is soft and somewhat silky, although it is far more sturdy than silk.

Dazzle fabric is also used in some other applications. For example, baby carriages and car seats are sometimes lined with dazzle fabric. Some avant-garde decorators have even incorporated dazzle fabric into window treatments such as swags and drapery panels.

Dazzle fabric does not stain very easily. Laundering a garment that is made of dazzle fabric on the normal cycle is usually sufficient to keep the garment in top condition. Air-drying or a few minutes in a dryer will usually produce a crisp and wrinkle free look. Ironing is not required because dazzle fabric is virtually wrinkle free. Dazzle fabric holds its shape very well and requires only basic maintenance.

Compared to other fabrics, dazzle is even more durable than denim because of the tightly woven polyester fibers, which make it nearly impossible to tear.

Beta clothFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

Beta cloth is a type of fireproof silica fiber cloth used in the manufacture of Apollo/Skylab A7L space suits, the Apollo Thermal Micrometeoroid Garment, and in other specialized applications.

Beta cloth consists of fine woven silica fiber, similar to fiberglass. The resulting fabric will not burn, and will melt only at temperatures exceeding 650 °C. To reduce its tendency to crease or tear when manipulated, and to increase durability, the fibers are coated with Teflon.

It was implemented in NASA space suits after the deadly 1967 Apollo 1 launch pad fire, in which the astronauts' nylon suits burned through. After the fire, NASA demanded any potentially flammable materials were to be removed from both the spacecraft and space suits. However they were challenged as to what they would replace it with and scoured the country in search of a material. Beta cloth was developed by a Manned Spacecraft Center team led by Frederick S. Dawn and including Matthew I. Radnofsky working with the Owens-Corning and DuPont companies.

CorduroyCorduroy is a textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts. Corduroy is, in essence, a ridged form of velvet.

The fabric looks as if it is made from multiple cords laid parallel to each other and then stitched together. The interpretation of the word as corde du roi (from French, the cord of the King) is a folk etymology.[1][2]

As a fabric, corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Corduroy is found in the construction of trousers, jackets and shirts. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the "wale" (i.e. the number of ridges per inch).[3] The lower the "wale" number, the thicker the width of the wale (e.g., 4-wale is much thicker than 11-wale). Corduroy’s wale count per inch can vary from 1.5 to 21, although the traditional standard falls somewhere between 10 and 12. Wide wale is more commonly used in trousers and furniture upholstery (primarily couches); medium, narrow, and fine wale fabrics are usually found in garments worn above the waist.

Corduroy is made by weaving extra sets of fiber into the base fabric to form vertical ridges called wales. The wales are built so that clear lines can be seen when they are cut into pile. The primary types of corduroy are:

Standard wale: 11 wales/inch, and available in many colours

Pincord/pinwale/needlecord: Pincord is the finest cord around with a count at the upper end of the spectrum (above 16)

Pigment dyed/printed corduroy: The process of colouring or printing corduroy with pigment dyes. The dye is applied to the surface of the fabric, then the garment is cut and sewn. When washed during the final phase of the manufacturing process, the pigment dye washes out in an irregular way, creating a vintage look. The colour of each garment becomes softer with each washing, and there is a subtle color variation from one to the next. No two are alike.

Ottoman (textile)Ottoman is a fabric with a pronounced ribbed or corded effect, often made of silk or a mixture of cotton and other silk like yarns. It is mostly used for formal dress and in particular, legal dress (such as QC gowns) and academic dress (mostly for hoods).

Ottoman made of pure silk is very expensive so artificial silk is used instead to create a cheaper alternative.

Grosgrain is similar to Ottoman but it is thinner and lighter than Ottoman and is used mostly for ribbons.

Cheviot (cloth)From Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

Cheviot, woollen fabric made originally from the wool of Cheviot sheep and now also made from other types of wool or from blends of wool and man-made fibres in plain or various twill weaves.

Cheviot wool possesses good spinning qualities, since the fibre is fine, soft, and pliable.

Cheviot fabric has a crispness of texture similar to serge but is slightly rougher and heavier.

Cheviot fabric may be produced either from woollen or worsted yarns according to the character, texture, and feel desired in the finished fabric. Some qualities are produced from crossbred worsted yarns adapted for furnishing crispness.

Cheviot suitings for sportswear are made from harder spun worsted yarns, and some are also made from botany worsted.

Cheviot shirting is a stout, twilled, cotton fabric woven with small geometrical patterns or with warp stripes and bleached weft. [1]