written by: walter galan · remove the two 3.6 mm pentalobe or phillips #000 screws next to the...

iPhone 4 Power & Sensor Cable ReplacementReplace a broken power and sensor cable on your iPhone 4. This part contains the proximitysensor, ambient light sensor, power cable and second microphone used for noise canceling.

Written By: Walter Galan

iPhone 4 Power & Sensor Cable Replacement Draft: 2018-04-11Guide ID: 4336 -

This document was generated on 2019-09-16 12:50:51 PM (MST).

© iFixit — CC BY-NC-SA www.iFixit.com of 22

INTRODUCTION

This part contains the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, power cable and second microphoneused for noise canceling.

TOOLS:P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone (1)

If iPhone has external Pentalobe screws.SIM Card Eject Tool (1)Phillips #000 Screwdriver (1)iFixit Opening Tools (1)Spudger (1)Tweezers (1)Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones (1)

PARTS:iPhone 4 Power and Sensor Cable (1)




Step 1 — Rear Panel

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery cancatch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe"screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correctscrewdriver in order to remove them.

Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

Be sure the driver is well seated when removing Pentalobe screws, they are very easy to strip.




http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/rlrF5h6UGBqN2VNq.huge

Step 2

Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

The panel will move about 2 mm.

Step 3

Pinch the rear panel with yourfingers and lift it away from theiPhone. Alternatively, use a SmallSuction Cup .

Be careful not to damage the plasticclips attached to the rear panel.

If you are installing a new rearpanel, be sure to remove the plasticprotective sticker from the inside ofthe camera lens and the sticker fromthe large black area near the lens.




https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Small-Suction-Cup/IF145-019

Step 4 — Battery

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillipsscrew securing the batteryconnector to the logic board.

Some devices may have twoscrews, one of which holds downthe contact pad which is locatedabove the screw indicated in redin the photo.

Step 5

Use a plastic opening tool to gentlypry the battery connector up from itssocket on the logic board.

Pry from the top and bottom ofthe connector bracket—there isn'tas much of an overhang on thesides, and you may damage theconnector.

Be very careful to only pry up on thebattery connector and not the socketon the logic board. If you pry up onthe logic board socket, you maybreak it entirely.

Remove the metal clip covering theantenna connector.




Step 6

Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab torelease the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage.

If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it awayfrom the the ribbon cable.

Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properlypositioned next to the battery connector.

Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oilsfrom your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplifytroubleshooting.




https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Force+Restart+an+iPhone+4/44489

Step 7 — Logic Board

Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

This may require a significant amount of force.

Remove the SIM card and its holder.




Step 8

Remove the following two screws:

One 1.2 mm Phillips

One 1.6 mm Phillips

Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cablecover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to causewireless interference issues.




Step 9

Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from bothshort ends of the connector.

Step 10

Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear thecable.




Step 11

Use a plastic opening tool to pry thelower antenna connector up off itssocket on the logic board.

Step 12

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screwsecuring the bottom of the logicboard to the inner case.




Step 13

Remove the following five screwssecuring the Wi-Fi antenna to thelogic board:

One 2.3 mm Phillips

Two 1.6 mm Phillips

One 1.4 mm Phillips

One 4.8 mm Phillips

When re-assembling, start off withreplacing the 4.8 mm Philips screwfirst, then the 2.3 mm. This is toensure there is no mix-up, and avoidrendering the LCD and digitizeruseless.

Also make sure to put the long 4.8mm Philips back in correctly whenreassembling. This is the ground forthe Wi-Fi antenna and is often theculprit if you are having bad Wi-Fireception after reassembly.




Step 14

Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logicboard.

Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top ofthe cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason forabnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover witha de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wirelessinterference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.




Step 15

Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logicboard.

Remove the rear camera.




Step 16

Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screwnear the battery pull tab.

Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

Step 17

Use the edge of a plastic openingtool to gently pry the followingconnectors up and out of theirsockets on the logic board:

Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

LCD cable (pry from bottom)

Headphone jack/volume buttoncable (pry from top)

Top Microphone/sleep buttoncable (pry from top)




Front camera cable (pry from top)

Step 18

Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screwnear the headphone jack.

Standoff screws are bestremoved using an iPhoneStandoff Screwdriver Bit anddriver handle.

In a pinch, a small flatheadscrewdriver will do the job—butuse extra caution to ensure itdoesn't slip and damagesurrounding components.

When reassembling the device,this standoff sets the height of theWi-Fi shield removed in step 13. Ifnot torqued down, the shield willbe above the plane of the frameand the back will not slide intoplace in step 2. The shield shouldbe flush with the headphone jack.

When reassembling themotherboard, ensure that its edgesits under the circled standoff,otherwise the screws will not fit.

When reassembling ensure that thesmall rubber spacer attached to thetop of the motherboard is in place.

Without this part, themotherboard could damage theribbon cables around it.




https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iPhone-Standoff-Screwdriver-Bit/IF145-343

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Handle/IF145-326

Step 19

Carefully remove the logic boardfrom the iPhone, minding any cablesthat may get caught.

Be careful not to damage thesmall gold prong (marked in red,near the top) as it's very fragile.

On reassembly, be careful not totrap the lower antenna cablebeneath the logic board.

Step 20 — Front Facing Camera

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the frontcamera.

Remove the front camera retainer.

During reassembly, position the clip's tabs on the outside of the receiving metal slots.




Step 21

Carefully lift the front facing cameraout of the iPhone.

It may be helpful to use tweezers toreinstall the front camera retainer.




Step 22 — Power & Sensor Cable

Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

One 6 mm Phillips

One 1.4 mm Phillips

Remove the vibrator from the inner case.




Step 23

Use the edge of a plastic openingtool to pry the earpiece speakeraway from the adhesive securing itto the front panel.

Be sure to pry beneath the entirespeaker, and not inside it, whichmay cause it to split open.




Step 24

Remove the two Phillips #000 screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.

Take extra care with the display cables, which can prevent easy access to the right-hand screw.The cables are easily damaged.

Carefully pull the power button bracket up and out of the outer case.

This bracket is made of cast aluminum and is very easily cracked. Proceed with caution.




Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to pull thebody of the headphone jack out ofthe outer case.

Take extra caution to avoid rippingthe thin cable.

Step 26

Grab the power & sensor cable nearthe microphone and peel it off thefront panel, being careful not to rip itin the process.

Take note of the gold, rectangularmicrophone attached vertically tothe case. Take care not to rip itwhen removing the cable.




To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Step 27

If you are replacing the power &sensor cable with a new unit, usethe edge of a plastic opening tool topeel the electronic power switch offits metal bracket.

Also be sure to transfer theproximity sensor foam/UV-filteradhered to the old power & sensorcable if your new one does notalready come with one. It looks likea small square and can be peeledoff with tweezers.

Transfer the bracket to your newpower & sensor cable.




written by: walter galan · remove the two 3.6 mm pentalobe or phillips #000 screws next to the...

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