6. great food magazine july/aug 2011

greatfoodCelebrating local food & drink

I S S U E # 7 £ 3 . 2 0HANDMADE IN THE

HEART OF ENGLAND

£3

.20

ISS

UE

#7

NEW HOME AND KITCHEN SECTIONBecause great food and good living go hand in hand

Chef Brian Baker’s astonishing career

FROM RUTLAND TO SIR ELTON

PACKED WITH RECIPESFrom picnic pasties to Moroccan lamb

FIND HIDDEN GEMS 20-page ‘Where To Eat’ section

A!o i"i#...

GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Leicester’s undiscovered curry houses reviewed

Three-pub walkSUPERB RURAL RAMBLE

Ice cream, picnics and pies!Summer fun

NEW CHEESES ON THE BLOCK

Introducing Battlefield Blue and Bosworth Field

50 of the best local eateries

REALLY USEFUL RESTAURANT MAP

PLUSAntiques for dining areas

The Foodie Gift Hunter’s guide Home baking with Julie Duff

This issue’s dream home

P80

Make bunting for your summer garden party

P82

Nose around Rachel Green’s new kitchen

P76

Get inspiration & tips for growing your own

www.discover-rutland.co.uk

For more information on local events visit our website:

www.discover-rutland.co.uk or email: [email protected] for more details.

Discover

at the

Enjoy a taste of Rutland this summer

great&food

drink

As the long, lazy days of summer approach, there’s no finer place to enjoy nature’s bountiful harvest than here in Rutland. With mouthwatering home-grown produce and locally brewed ales and ciders, it’s time to give your taste buds the treat they deserve, and come along to one of our gastro-fantastic events!

Rutland Food and Drink Festival includes: Cooking demonstrations from top local chefs Huge range of local produce to taste and buy Delicious hot food such as hog roast, venison steaks, old spot sausages and more… Part of Rutland Day - family fun for all ages!

Saturday 17th September at Rutland Water!

23rd-26th JuneRutland CAMRA Beer FestivalCAMRA promotes good-quality real ale.

23rd-26th JuneSausage and Cider FestivalCelebrating everything great about English ciders and sausages!

25th-29th AugustThe Grainstore Brewery Beer Festival Over 70 ales, stouts and bitters, plus BBQ and live music!

23rd-26th June

LOADS MORE RUTLAND

FOOD AND DRINK EVENTS

THROUGHOUT SUMMER!

rutland county council.indd 2rutland county council.indd 2 6/6/11 14:16:346/6/11 14:16:34

The level of interest in locally produced food and drink keeps on growing. It really feels like an exciting time. Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire is a prime example of how much energy there is within the scene right now. What started out as a group of disused buildings on an historic estate is quickly becoming one of the UK’s

most important artisan food centres. In 2006, a cheesemaker moved into one of the properties and a farm shop quickly followed. Then a bakery moved in, which led to the creation of the School of Artisan Food in 2009. Now a brewery has joined the fun and a chocolate maker is following suit. Meanwhile, a batch of Artisan School students are about to graduate with diplomas in artisan food production, and demand for short courses is high.

People are rediscovering the craft of food and drink production using locally sourced ingredients and gaining new insights into how important it is, in terms of physical, environmental and spiritual health.PS Great Food is now covering a larger geographical area. Check out your new foodie maps on p58, 62 and 66. www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

[email protected]

Welco!

GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT SEPTEMBER 8, 2011

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Ice cream by Graham Wright

Great Food has been shortlisted for a Media Pioneer Award by the Specialist Media Show – www.thespecialistmediashow.com

Contents

WRITE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Twitter: @greatfoodmag

Welcome

Great Food Magazine 3

NIBBLES4 Your letters 6 Big Picture: Tukata Bird8 Local food news10 Everards’ Project Artisan12 Events diary13 Farmers’ market listings

STARTER14 British Pie Awards report16 Out and about: Leicester Market18 Local ice cream producers20 Ice cream recipes

MAIN COURSE22 Back issues and subscriptions 24 Brian Baker profile28 Summer preserving30 Swithland Spring Water32 100 mile man34 Red Lion summer’s day planner

BACK FOR SECONDS36 Moroccan lamb recipe39 Thai lamb recipe40 Pub walk: Sproxton circuit42 Local beer

PUDDING43 New local cheeses44 The Insider46 Lucy Cufflin48 Foodie Gift Hunter

WHERE TO EAT SECTION52 Off-the-beaten-track curry houses54 Reviews: Boboli and Peacock Inn57 Great Food Club58 Restaurant map61 Profile: The Jackson Stops62 Deli, cheese and wine shop map65 Profile: Christopher James Deli66 Farm shop and butchers map68 Profile: Farndon Fields Farm Shop71 Profile: Kilworth House Hotel

HOME & KITCHEN SECTION74 Food-lover’s dream home76 Veg patch from scratch78 Veg patch recipes79 Home baking: Cricketers’ Ale Cake80 How to make party bunting81 Antiques for dining areas82 Show us your kitchen!

EDITOR: Matthew Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins – [email protected] 766199SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341PUBLISHED BY: Rocco MediaPRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE: Graham Wright, Tim Burke, Andrew

Brackenbury, Rachel Quine, Jack Thorpe, Vanessa Kimbell, Rosemary Jameson, Sean Hope, Emily Holt, Phil Sharpe, Mark Tetlow, Tim Brown, Helen Chantrey, Lucy Cufflin, Helen Tarver, Emily Coates, Philippa Maffioli, Matt Cox, Laura Harvey, Julie Duff and... Rocco the Jack RussellWEBSITE: @paulbunkhamFull Ts & Cs are on our website. STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock.

WHERE TO EAT?Brand new section starts on p51

LETTERS

4 Great Food Magazine

Your recommendations, tips and banter…

Join the daily chat. Go to Twitter, follow @greatfoodmag and share your tips

Birthday pie!Having recently moved from Leicester city to the county, I was pleased to pick up my first copy of this magazine on a visit to Stonehurst Family Farm, Mountsorrel. I’m keen to find out about local food production and to support it as much as I can and Great Food has been a really good source of information. I was particularly interested to read the pork pie article [Life of Pie, Issue 6] and it gave me an idea for my grandfather’s 80th birthday. I discovered that Mark Patrick Butchers in Birstall are registered makers of genuine Melton Mowbray pork pies and as they are now only down the road, I called them to see if they did any special (large!) pies. The response from them was just what I’d wanted and the result tasted just as good. They were able to produce a pie the size of a cake and even cut ‘80’ out of pastry for the top. It went down a treat at my grandfather’s party, but I’m not sure how much was left for him in the end as everyone wanted to sample it. A real hit. Thank you for the inspiration.Emily Reid, Anstey

Love from YorkshireLoved our latest excursion to the Jackson Stops in Stretton under their new owners when we called in for a light lunch on Saturday. It was quite excellent. It was also there that we found Great Food magazine and it makes for really good reading. On Monday, instead of going to Hambleton Hall for a light lunch (as we have been there in the last month) we were recommended to go to the Finch’s Arms and, oh boy, that was brilliant. We had the smoked salmon and crème fraiche and we can’t wait to go back there.

Hats off to [Hambleton Hall owner] Tim Hart for his lovely Hambleton Bakery shops. All very enterprising stuff going on down your way!John Abel, Harrogate

New recipes, new peopleOne thing I have always noticed about foodies is that they are happy to share recipes and this magazine captures the generosity perfectly. I shall be filing every issue to be referred to over and over again. I know that [Hotel Maiyango chef] Phillip Sharpe’s Thai Fish Broth [Issue 7] will be a favourite when friends come for supper, as will Matt Gregory’s wild garlic pesto. When the hedgerows in the Vale of Belvoir are once again fragrant with elderflowers, I shall go back to Issue 6! I have recently launched my own local food company so the magazine has become both my inspiration, my relaxation read and also

a superb reference guide to help with the many facets of running my new business. The farm shop map, events diary and farmers’ market locations give a useful guide to planning sales venues. But best of all, I am getting the

perfect introduction to many wonderful people in the artisan food business who I might otherwise never have come into contact with.Hazel Spurr, Barkestone-le-Vale

Restaurant tipsMy girlfriend has recently moved to Oakham, where we tried the Indian restaurant called The Dining Room. Their food was not your average curry but rather a fusion of French cooking with Indian spices. We had spiced seared tuna to start and sea bass fillet for main. Definitely worth a mention. I personally believe that Maiyango is the best restaurant in Leicester but we are currently using the magazine to try out new places around the region. As a lover of authentic, thin crust Italian pizzas, I would never have found the Garage Deli in Uppingham without Great Food. They do great pizza!Ashley Dennis, Houghton

Chocolate heavenAfter coming across Chocolate Alchemy of Loughborough in the magazine, I thought their courses sounded ideal. The teaching, advice and chocolates exceeded my expectations. Hearing about the geographical and

political aspects of cocoa was most interesting, as was the tasting. Shop owner and teacher Peter Gardner has made me want to learn more.

On a different note, we recently ate at The Berkeley Arms, Wymondham, which lived up to your positive review, with the bonus of meeting some of the local allotment group who provide veg. That really is local food. Ann Ellis, Stamford

@MMporkpieman@greatfoodmag D&M pork pies will be at Tatton Park Show July 20-24. Go to www.porkpie.co.uk for more info

@BritishPiesThanks to @greatfoodmag for a lovely report on yesterday’s awards. Hope you enjoyed all the pies!

Your tweets

The writer of each issue’s Star Letter wins a free meal for two at award-winning Entropy restaurant in Leicester. For more on Entropy, go to entropy life.com

STAR LETTER

TELL US WHAT YOU THINK, WRITE IN & WINYour letters

@thrillgallery@greatfoodmag At university I made a shepherd's pie from tinned steak, leftover Xmas port and Marmite. It was topped with mashed oven chips

@thetiffinfoodco @greatfoodmag Why not try Chennai Dosa on Belgrave Road, Leicester?

@LocalFoodHeroes @greatfoodmag Joseph Morris in South Kilworth - abattoir with shop selling good meat at below supermarket prices

@Itch_Gallery @greatfoodmag Got to be Hambleton Fine Foods on Gaol St, Oakham! Top quality meat, very knowledgeable and skilled butchers

And your favourite local butchers…

How to contact usWrite to the editor: matthew.wright@

greatfoodmag.co.uk, Tweet @greatfoodmag

or use snail mail (address on page 3)

Hambleton Bakery, Oundle

Entropy

maiyango.indd 2maiyango.indd 2 14/6/11 10:12:5614/6/11 10:12:56

THE BIG PICTURE


Tukata’s worldARTICLE & PHOTOS: abrackenbury.com

Tukata Bird


She grew up in Bangkok surrounded by food, noise and 11 siblings but then found herself in Rutland. Chef Tukata Bird now loves to fuse local with Asian

On Saturday mornings in Stamford’s town centre, few faces are as well-known or loved as that of

Thai chef Tukata Bird. Standing at her stall, leaning over a wok, Tukata concocts spice-infused delicacies. “I love to cook on the street,” says Tukata. “I want to provide people with happy, healthy food, full of fresh local meat and veg – and I love to have fun with them too!”

Her delight in banter makes perfect sense when you learn she was the eleventh of twelve children. The family home was in central Bangkok and food was at the heart of the household. “Our table was always full of wonderful food,” says Tukata. “As I was the youngest girl, while my sisters went abroad to study I stayed at home and helped on our farm. My mother would send me to pick herbs, telling me to touch them and smell them before I decided whether to pick them.”

Tukata’s mother spent eight years learning in the kitchens of the Royal House of Thailand. It was an exacting education in what Tukata describes as the “culture of herbs”.

“She spent years just chopping and learning how to blend herbs

before she was even allowed to cook,” says Tukata. In all, four generations of the family studied and worked in these disciplined kitchens. By passing all of this on to Tukata, Thien made sure the knowledge would last.

It was marriage to English architect David Bird that saw Tukata leave Thailand to establish her own family home in the quintessentially English village of Ryhall, Rutland. As culture shocks go it must have been extreme. Tukata laughingly recalls how she was “like the only foreigner in the village” – but her sunny nature meant she soon became part of the community.

“When I arrived I had to make big changes,” she laughs. “You have to adapt. In Thailand you have, say, lemongrass; here you have lemon

balm and lemon thyme and a little sage – you can use these together to replace lemongrass and make a green curry. You can make good Thai food just using local ingredients – I’ve been here for 25 years and I’ve always used local ingredients. I use fresh produce and don’t take short cuts.”

This approach has done much to help the success of Tuk Tuk Foods, her own brand of award-winning curry pastes and dipping sauces.

Back in the 1990s Tukata also ran the Mai Thai Noodle House in Stamford. Local devotees of her street food stall will be delighted to learn that having teamed up with local entrepreneur Mark Lapsley, Tukata is a central player at a new version of Mai Thai (see below). Despite it being a Thai restaurant, Tukata is promising to use local ingredients throughout.

But it’s not just local food she’s fond of – she embraces local traditions too. “I love pork pie,” she exclaims. “I serve it with Thai dim sum, sweet chilli sauce, raw salad and a soya salad dressing – the vegetables lighten it.”

Having sampled the results, the combination is so heavenly that Melton Mowbray and Bangkok don’t seem so far apart after all.

Thai with a local twistMai Thai, located in the middle of Stamford, opened at the end of May. “I want it to be a family restaurant, where everyone can taste new flavours made using local ingredients,” says Tukata. “You’ll be able to buy my sauces and dips there, and some other local foods too – it’ll be somewhere you can experience food from the other side of the world but know that what you are eating was locally grown and locally made.”

CONTACT Mai Thai Bistro, 2 Cheyne Lane, Stamford, Lincs, www.maithai bistro.co.uk

FOR ONE OF TUKATA’S RECIPES, TURN TO P39

A cluster of artisan food and drink businesses is continuing to expand organically on Welbeck Estate,

Nottinghamshire, providing an inspiring model of how small producers can succeed by grouping together to help each other out.

Chocolate maker Boutique Aromatique is the latest business to arrive on Welbeck near Worksop, joining a bakery, brewery, farm shop, cheesemaker and the School of Artisan Food.

Historic Welbeck Estate, owned by the Parente family and centre of a unique project to build a sustainable community of creative businesses, became home to Stichelton cheese and a farm shop in 2006, before being joined by a bakery. It was during the setting up of the bakery that it became clear a training centre for artisan producers was needed, which in turn led to the creation of the not-for-profit School of Artisan Food in 2009.

Welbeck Abbey Brewery have just joined the party in June 2011, and Boutique Aromatique began making patisserie and selling fragrant chocolates on the estate in July this year.


Foodie enclave evolves on Nottinghamshire estate

MANOR FARM TALKSAward-winning Manor Farm Dairy of Thrussington, Leicestershire – which has been hand-making yogurt for 32 years – is holding talks for groups interested in finding out more about running a dairy and producing yogurt in the supermarket age. manorfarmyogurts.com

WOODFIRED OVENSFancy cooking perfect pizza on your patio? Bluestone aluminium-topped outdoor woodfired ovens now have a Midlands agent. For more details call Will on 07739 456107 or go to: bluestonewoodfiredovens.co.uk

NEW RAILWAY BISTROLoughborough’s Great Central Railway, one of Britain’s last working steam railways, has opened a café/bistro at Quorn station, Leics. GCR also operates dining services on board its heritage steam trains. www.gcrailway.co.uk

OLIVER SURPRISECeleb chef Jamie Oliver turned up out of the blue at a local Indian restaurant recently while filming for a Channel 4 show set to air this autumn. Staff at family-run Marten Inn, Leicester, which specialises in home-style Indian cooking (see p52), were “shocked but happy”.

GREAT FOOD CLUBIf you like supporting local producers, eating out at great restaurants and shopping at top delis then sign up to receive updates on Great Food Club. Coming soon, members will enjoy superb offers and exclusive events. Subscribers to Great Food magazine will gain automatic membership. More at: www.greatfoodmag.com

Cooking?EDITED BY: MATT WRIGHT

What’s

SUCCESS FOR LOCAL COOK

In May 2010, Vanessa Kimbell from north Northamptonshire handed in her notice as an IT management consultant and gave herself 12 months to write a cookbook. In May 2011, Prepped, published by Spring Hill, rolled off the presses.

Described as a “multi-tasking masterpiece for

time-short foodies”, the book now has 100% five-star reviews on Amazon. “I wanted to do something new and challenging,” said Vanessa. “I’m tickled pink to have done it – my great grandchildren will all have copies!” Vanessa shares a recipe on p20.

Quit work, write cook book

Sm!Welbeck Farm Shop and, above,

Boutique Aromatique chocolates

WELBECK LEADS ARTISAN REVIVAL

The School of Artisan Food has flourished since 2009

Local food news

Hazel Spurr from the Vale of Belvoir has fused an old English pud recipe with traditionally grown organic cocoa beans from Mesoamerica. The result is a delicious chocolate hit. More information at mayachocolatepuddings.com

Reco!endsR"o“Excellent places that let me in”

STAPLEFORD PARK“Why on earth Julian the Basset Hound didn’t tell me about this luxurious place after his visit I have

no idea. On arrival I received a dog bed, water bowl and two Boneos wrapped in ribbons. Not bad, although a Mrs King’s pork pie would have been better. I was also handed a ‘doggy rules’ letter, which I promptly chewed up, before being admonished by my owner and sent off to be looked after by reception staff while he scoffed his fat face in the restaurant.”

Stapleford Park Hotel, Leics LE14 2EF, 01572 787000, www.staplefordpark.com

#$iant b%r g&'(THE ANNE OF CLEVESA hidden gem in the centre of the town that calls itself Britain’s Rural Food Capital, the walled garden to the rear of the Anne of Cleves pub is a beautifully looked after sun trap. Overlooked by St Mary’s Church spire, on a fine day this is one of the region’s best town beer gardens. The building is said to have been given to Ann of Cleves by Henry VIII as part of their divorce settlement.

Anne of Cleves, 13 Burton St, Melton Mowbray, 01664 481336


Local food and drink entrepreneurs appear to be busier than ever. Market Harborough has seen the

launch of deli Simply Simon’s, and a few miles away at Farndon Fields Farm Shop a new deli counter is being installed. Up the road, Langton Farm Shop has opened, while a new cider called Scrambler is now being pressed in the village of Hallaton.

In Leicester, the Original Cookware Company has opened spin-off St Martin’s Tea and Coffee Merchants, while over in Stamford,

Mai Thai bistro (see p7) and Stamford Cookery School are now up and running.

Meanwhile, Melton Mowbray’s new Artisan Cheese Fair in June attracted over 2000 visitors, with some cheese sellers running out of stock.

“The local food and drink sector is growing,” said Stephen Gould, managing director of Everards, at the launch of Project Artisan (see p10). “The proportion of our 172 licensees sourcing locally has grown fast over the past year, and drinkers are seeking out local craft ales.”

By contrast, in April, Stilton maker Quenby Dairy went into administration.

Three new local food

businesses

Hazel’s Maya chocolate puds

LOCAL FOOD COMMUNITY KEEPS ON LAUNCHING

New businesses continue to spring up all over region

LOCAL FOOD WATCH

{Freshly refurbished Launde Abbey in rural east Leicestershire, which dates back to the 12th

century, is running cookery demonstrations using food grown in the grounds. “We want to widen the appeal of Launde,” said Abbey spokesperson Suzanne Page. The next event is on September 14.

Launde gets foodie }

LOCAL FOOD NEWS

artisan producer to transform his or her new building, while also offering capital, business support and marketing assistance.

“We’re really excited about teaming up with artisan food producers,” said Everards managing director Stephen Gould. “Everards was once a small artisan brewer that grew, and we love the idea of using our experience to help craft producers to succeed. Project Artisan will also regenerate pubs and turn them into spaces relevant to today’s market.”

Everards is working alongside lottery-funded The Real Bread Campaign. Chris Young from the

Family-owned Leicestershire brewer Everards has revealed details of an exciting new

scheme called Project Artisan.The pioneering project aims to

install local food and drink businesses – such as bakers, chocolate makers and butchers – in suitable Everards pubs or outbuildings.

For example, an artisan baker could rent space within a local Everards-owned pub. From there they could run their business, bake loaves and sell them to the pub and its customers – and also potentially to some of the 172 hostelries within the Everards’ portfolio. The brewer would help each

Everards began Project William in 2007. The scheme sees the brewery buy up tired old pubs and work with microbreweries and ambitious landlords to turn these outdated, nicotine-stained

buildings into modern brewery taps serving a range of real ales. Everards allows partner breweries to brand Project William pubs’ with their own logos and serve their own beers inside, along with guest

ales. Project William has so far led to the transformation of 22 pubs in various locations across the Midlands, with Everards – Publican Pub Company of the Year for the last three years – committed to

tackling more. Project Artisan will see the same approach but with Everards partnering independent food producers. Great Food awaits the first pub-bakery with baited breath.

FROM OLD BOOZERS TO THRIVING ALE HOUSES

Everards and Titanic Brewery refreshed the Royal Exchange, Stone The Greyhound, Newcastle under Lyme, is another result of Project William

Coming soon... artisan bakers kneading and baking in local pubs


EVERARDS TO WORK WITH ARTISAN PRODUCERSThe Leicestershire brewer and property owner wants bakers and other artisan food producers to run their businesses from its pubs

Campaign said: “Everards is offering a great opportunity to people who need help in bringing real bread back to the hearts of local communities, and take its rightful place alongside real ale in a real local.”

Project Artisan is an evolution of Everards’ Project William scheme (see below), which launched in 2007 and saw the brewer buy run-down local pubs and work with independent artisan brewers to transform them into bustling brewery taps.

Anyone interested in Project Artisan should email Everards’ managing director Stephen Gould – [email protected]

BEFORE BEFOREAFTER AFTER

DELI-PUBLeicester pub the Rutland & Derby gives a clue as to how a Project Artisan hostelry might work. The R&D has been refurbished and now has a deli counter next to the bar. everards.co.uk

• LOCAL NEWS • LO

CAL NEWS •LOCAL N

EWS

waitrose.com/oadby

Discover something delicious.

Explore Waitrose in Oadby.

Harborough Road, Oadby, Leicester LE2 4LA

Have a taste of Waitrose on us.Save £5 when you spend £30 or more at Waitrose Oadby on or before 31 July 2011.Terms and Conditions of offer: 1. To claim your £5 off, present this voucher at your local Waitrose Oadby, Harborough Road checkout when you spend £30 or more, in a single transaction, on or before the 31 July 2011. 2. Only one voucher per person, to be submitted upon redemption and voucher can only be used once. 3. Only original vouchers will be accepted. 4. May only be used in exchange for goods, excluding: tobacco, stamps, mobile top ups, e-Top up vouchers, lottery purchases, Gift Vouchers, cash back transactions and car park charges. 5. Offer does not apply online or to purchase petrol. 6. Offer valid in above-named Waitrose branch only. 7. Cannot be used in conjunction with Partnership discount or any other offer. 8. No cash alternative. 9. Value of the voucher: 0.01p. 10. Offer subject to availability.

9210139610010012

waitrose.indd 2waitrose.indd 2 8/6/11 12:32:278/6/11 12:32:27

July 16OUNDLE FOOD FESTIVALCooking demonstrations by baker and Guardian food writer Dan Lepard are the star attractions of Oundle Food Fest. There will also be local producer stalls and other talks, including two by Arthur Potts Dawson, founder of London’s People’s Supermarket. Festival: free; Dan Lepard demos: £12.50 each. oundlefoodfestival.co.uk, 01832 274734

Do this!Delicious things to do in the region this summer

THINGS TO DO


JULY 15: St Swithin’s Day and many schools break for summer (regional variations)AUGUST 1: Lammas DayAUGUST 29: Late Summer Bank Holiday

August 28 & 29BURGHLEY HOUSE FINE FOOD MARKETMagnificent Burghley House near Stamford runs three Fine Food markets a year in conjunction with Tastes of Lincolnshire. Great local food in fine surroundings. burghley.co.uk, 01780 761992

Monday-Saturday, 2pm-4pmAFTERNOON TEA AT THE BARROWBY CAKEHOLESip from fine china and try to remain civilised in the face of delicious cakes as you take afternoon tea in the attractive surroundings of one of the region’s newest deli/cafés. The Vale of Belvoir’s Cakehole also has a good deli counter. Book in advance. barrowbycakehole.co.uk, 01476 564250

July 23SQUISITO SECRET SUPPER CLUB Squisito Deli, artisan producers of Italian food (using local ingredients) based in Monks Kirby, Warwickshire, are fast gaining an enviable reputation for their supper clubs. Price £25. Bring your own wine. squisito-deli.co.uk, 07824 314235

July 12 and 19SEAN HOPE COOKERY DEMONSTRATIONSSean Hope, Michelin-starred chef and co-owner of Rutland’s Olive Branch and Stathern’s Red Lion, is running seasonal cookery demos. On July 12 he’ll be holding fort at the Red Lion (£40) and on July 19 at the Olive Branch (£45). Prices include lunch. theolivebranchpub.com, 01780 410355

August 7ICE CREAM MAKING AT THE SCHOOL OF ARTISAN FOODThe UK’s foodiest school on Nottinghamshire’s Welbeck Estate (see p8) runs several short courses including this one-day ice cream making session with Kitty Travers of London’s La Grotta Ices. Discover the best techniques and ingredients – £105. schoolofartisanfood.org, 01909 532171

June 29-July 10NOTTINGHAM FOOD FESTIVALTaking places throughout the city, this 12-day celebration of food and drink incorporates festival menus at restaurants and a series of events, such as a Sushi Making Masterclass at Chino Latino and Pasta Making Demos at Piccolino. A great time to check out the culinary delights of Nottingham. wearenottingham.co.uk, 0115 9585287

JULY 21 & AUG 25: Wine tastings at Castle Cottage, Oakham (01572 757952)AUGUST 28-29: Northants Food Show, Holdenby House (01604 820011)

SEPTEMBER 14: Special guest chef, Launde Abbey, www.launde.org.ukSEPTEMBER 17: Rutland Food Festival, discover-rutland.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 17-18: Belgrave Hall Good Food Fair, LeicesterOCTOBER 1-2: East Midlands Food Festival, Melton Mowbray

MORE OF THE REGION’S EVENTSHigh days & holidays

For a regularly

updated event diary, go to www.

greatfood mag.co.uk

August 27FOOD GUSTO SUMMER FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL Food Gusto is a social enterprise set up to promote great quality local food and drink. Gusto’s bustling summer festival is held at Sir John Moore Foundation, Appleby Magna, attracting exhibitors from Leicestershire, Derbyshire, Warwicks and Staffs. £3 entry. www.foodgusto.co.uk, 01530 411337

Salt cod cooked by Sean Hope at one of his previous cookery demonstrations

Real bread comes to Oundle

Phone to book COCKTAIL MAKING CLASSES AT HOTEL MAIYANGOLeicester’s multi award-winning, local producer-supporting boutique hotel and restaurant can cater for between two and 40 budding mixologists. Make sure you get the recipe for their Black Forest Gateaux cocktail while you’re there. From £25 per person. maiyango.com, 0116 2518898

Farmers’ markets

ASHBY DE LA ZOUCHWhen Third Sat of month, 9am-2pm

BLABYWhen Fourth Sat of month, 9am-1pm (third Sat in Dec)

BURBAGEWhen First Sat, 9am-1pm

BROUGHTON ASTLEYWhen Second Sun, 10am-2pm

CASTLE DONINGTONWhen Second Sat, 9am-12.30pm

EARL SHILTONWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pm

HINCKLEYWhen Third Thurs, 9am-2pmKIBWORTH BEAUCHAMPWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pm

LEICESTERWhen First Thurs, 10am-4pm

LOUGHBOROUGHWhen Second Weds, 9am-4pm

LUTTERWORTHWhen Second Sat, 9am-1.30pm

MARKET BOSWORTHWhen Fourth Sun, 9am-2pm

MARKET HARBOROUGHWhen First Thurs, 8am-3.30pm

MELTON MOWBRAYWhen Every Tues and Fri, 9am-2pm

OAKHAMWhen Third Sat, 8am-2pm

STAMFORD (LINCS)When Every other Fri, 8.30am-3pm (July 1, July 15 etc)

UPPINGHAMWhen Third Fri, 8am-1pm

NottinghamshireBEESTON When Fourth Fri, 9am-2pm

BINGHAMWhen Third Sat, from 9am

MANSFIELD When Third Tues, 9am-4pm

NEWARKWhen First Wed, from 9am

NOTTINGHAM When Third Fri, 9am-4pm

RETFORDWhen Third Sat, from 9am

SOUTHWELLWhen Third Thurs, 9am-3pm

WEST BRIDGFORD When Second and fourth Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm

WOLLATONWhen First Sat, 9am-1pm

WORKSOPWhen Second Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm

DerbyshireALFRETONWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pm

BELPERWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pm

CHESTERFIELDWhen Second Thur and last Sun, from 9am

DERBYWhen Third Thur, 9am-3pm

HEANOR When Third Sat, 9am-3pm

RIPLEYWhen First Sat, 9am-3pm

SWADLINCOTEWhen Third Sat of month, from 9am

WarwickshireATHERSTONEWhen Third Sat, 9am-2pm

BEDWORTHWhen Last Weds, from 9am BIRMINGHAM HIGH ST HARBOURNEWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pmBIRMINGHAM NEW STREETWhen First and third Weds, 9am-4pm

COLESHILLWhen Fourth Fri, 10am-2pm

COVENTRYWhen Second Thurs, 9am-4.30pm

LEAMINGTON SPAWhen Fourth Sat, 9am-2pm

NUNEATONWhen Third Fri , 9am-2pm

RUGBYWhen Last Thurs, 9am-2pm

SOLIHULLWhen First Fri, 9am-5pm

STRATFORD-ON-AVONWhen First and third Sat, 9am-2pmSUTTON COLDFIELDWhen Second Fri, 9am-3pmWARWICKWhen Fifth Sat (irregular), 9am-2pm

NorthamptonshireBRACKLEYWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pmDAVENTRYWhen First Sat, 9am-1pmOUNDLEWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pmHIGHAM FERRERSWhen Last Sat, 8am-3pmNORTHAMPTONWhen Third Thurs, 9am-1.30pmTOWCESTERWhen Second Fri, 9am-2pmWELLINGBOROUGHWhen Last Thurs, 9am-2pm

NB We’ve used a number of sources to compile this list. Always check market is running before setting off

F!"#’ m!$ts Where’s your nearest?Leicestershire & Rutland


AWARDS

The Telegraph’s Xanthe Clay and master baker Richard Watkin grapple with Melton pork pies

Judges are briefed before getting to work

Food writer Charles Campion analyses a pasty

The concept of 60 judges bent over prodding and tasting 619 pies in a church is either amusing, alarming, plain

odd or darn excellent, depending on your opinion. Hearing the words, “And the winner is... Morecambe Football Club” coming from the pulpit is even more surreal, but that’s exactly what happened at the third British Pie Awards, held in beautiful St Mary’s Church, Melton Mowbray on June 8.

Organised by the Melton Mowbray Pie Association to celebrate British pie making and to boost the trade, the most notable local winner was Mrs King’s of Cotgrave, Notts, who cleaned up in the Melton Pork Pie category. Bouverie Lodge of Nether Broughton, Leics won the Apple Pie class, and Croots Farm Shop of Duffield, Derbys tasted Gold for their Steak & Kidney Pie. Other local medal winners were Northfield Farm of Cold Overton and Leicester’s Walkers Charnwood Bakery.

But the Awards belonged to Morecambe FC who, having won in the Football Pie category, went on to the final shoot-out and surprised many by calmly slotting their Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie into the bottom corner to lift the trophy.

ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

WIN: FLAVOUR OF MELTON HAMPERTo celebrate its 160th anniversary, Melton Mowbray pork pie baker Dickinson & Morris is offering you the chance to win one of three Flavour of Melton hampers packed with regional delicacies – just in time for the picnic season. Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray pork pies are made with uncured British pork and baked without a supporting tin or hoop, to give the classic bow-sided shape. The hamper also contains other traditional produce from the region including Blue Stilton, Melton Hunt Cake and elderflower cordial.

To enter, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and follow the link Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe on Nottingham Street, Melton Mowbray, was set up by John Dickinson in 1851. In 1886 Joseph Morris was taken on as an apprentice pie maker and the partnership between John and Joseph was cemented when the business became Dickinson & Morris in 1901. To mark the 160th anniversary of their pie making in Melton Mowbray, Dickinson & Morris has launched a family tree challenge to find living descendants of the business founders. In its search, Dickinson & Morris has teamed up with www.ancestry.co.uk, the UK’s family history website. More info at www.porkpie.co.uk/160

CONTACT: Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, 10 Nottingham St, Melton, Leics LE13 1NW; Twitter @160yearsofpies; closing date: Aug 31, 2011. Full terms and conditions at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Sixty judges, 619 pies, one champion

British Pie Awards 2011

The Class WinnersSupreme Champion Chicken, Ham & Leek Pie

by Morecambe Football Club, Lancashire

Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Mrs King’s Pies of Cotgrave, Nottinghamshire

Pork Pie Walkers Charnwood Bakery, Leicester

Steak & Kidney Pie Turners Catering Pies of Bognor Regis, West Sussex

Savoury Pie (Hot) Chicken, Leek and Lava Bread Pie by Leonardo’s Deli of Ruthin, Denbighshire

Savoury Pie (Cold) Chicken and Ham Pie by Chunk of Ottery St Mary, Devon

Fish Pie Smoked Eel, Leek and Horseradish Pie by The Great North Pie Company of Stockport, Cheshire

Vegetarian Pie Cheshire Blue Cheese Pie by The Great North Pie Company of Stockport, Cheshire

Cornish Pasty Crantock Bakery of Newquay, Cornwall

Other Pasty Proper Cornish of Bodmin, Cornwall

British Apple Pie Bouverie Lodge Quality Foods of Nether Broughton, Leicestershire

Other Dessert Pie Cherry Pie by Kensey Foods of Launceston, Cornwall

Football Pie Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie by Morecambe Football Club, Lancashire

Small Producers’ Special Award Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie by Morecambe FC

Stephen Hallam, MD of Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe

Judging in full swing in St Mary’s Church, Melton

Chairman of judges Hugh Weeks with the

Supreme Champion


East Midlands Today presenter

Dominic Heale

L-r: Mary Ibbotson, Martin Peters and Rachel Green

Mrs King’s Pork Pies2011 Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

Champion Mrs King’s Pork Pies of Cotgrave was established by Mrs

Elizabeth King in 1853. Now run by the Hartland family (pictured,

above left), the business mainly sells its pies in London’s Borough

Market and Selfridges. You can also buy Mrs King’s pies online via www.mrskingsporkpies.co.uk

Above left: Paul Morris from Heightons Bakery

Mayor Peter Soulsby enjoys Market Corner

OUT & ABOUT


Market Corner &

‘Market Corner can help to bridge the disconnect between producer and consumer’ – Peter Soulsby

It’s been busy at Leicester Market, with the Summer Food Festival coinciding with the launch of a new food area

Sam Hagger and Daila Barghouthy

Keith Charlton of Warwickshire baker WH Gayton & Sons

Prasanta Das and Amardeep Singh

Everards ladies Sam Ball and Claire Cannell

Street food

food festival fun


Y ou could almost think it had been planned all along. The opening of Leicester’s new Market Corner development in May happened just in time for the city’s Summer Food &

Drink festival, and also turned out to be the first public engagement for the city’s new mayor.

The presence of Sir Peter Soulsby at the opening of Market Corner certainly helped to ensure the television cameras were out in force. And, crucially, the people of Leicester flocked to check out the 20 new gazebo-style stalls, manned by carefully selected local traders offering high quality produce.

Also thriving was the city’s Summer Food & Drink Festival, which took place just a few days after the launch of

‘Thousands of people enjoyed 180 stalls at Leicester’s Summer Food Festival’Market Corner. Thousands of food lovers enjoyed 180 stalls at the festival, offering everything from cupcakes to vegetarian curry, and there was a real buzz around Leicester Market for the entire event. Many of the pictures on this spread were taken at the Summer Food Festival.

But back to the launch of Market Corner, which is an important development for Leicester Market, designed to reinvigorate the entire operation. Mayor Soulsby told Great Food that he was keen to see as much local produce sold there as possible: “There’s too big a disconnect between producers and consumers and this can help to close that gap. There’s more to the region than cheese and pies,” he added. “For example, I’ve visited local farms that produce superb meat – and this flexible space can showcase them.”

First reaction from the Market Corner traders was uniformly positive. Irrepressible curry entrepreneur Tiny Deol had sold out of her CurrySlim range of cooking sauces by 1pm and was taking written orders. “While we sell around the world, we love Leicester and want to be a part of it,” she said. “This new development seems to have lifted everyone’s spirits and it’s a pleasure to be here.”

Harborough-based Heightons Bakery had also sold out of their sun-dried tomato bread, focaccia and seeded rolls. Heightons’ Paul Morris said the opportunity to be in a dedicated food area with high footfall was attractive: “There’s a really well-chosen product mix, too,” he added.

The new area also enables restaurants to have a presence in the heart of the city. Amanda Fernandes of Goan

restaurant Anjuna said they would use their stall to promote the restaurant and get customer feedback and encourage people to try out something new. Anjuna’s chefs will be cooking on site and Amanda said the Goan specialities of chicken xacuti and potato chops stuffed with marinated lamb were already proving extremely popular.

Italian restaurant Casa Romana, tucked away on Leicester’s Albion Street, has thrived for over 20 years but is a notoriously hard-to-locate venue with no signage. So it’s a surprise to find them at Market Corner – with a big banner. Chef Jackie Griffin said they will focus on simple lunches with the aim of tempting people back to the restaurant.

There are speciality food stalls at Market Corner every Friday and Saturday. Tim Burke

Who’s at the Corner?Other traders at Friday and Saturday’s Market Corner include Bobby’s Indian restaurant (see p52), pork specialists Woodhouse Farm and Viva La Cupcake.

CONTACT Leicester Market, Market Place, Leicester LE1 5HQ leicestermarket.co.uk

‘We sell globally but want to be part of Leicester’ – Tiny Deol

Caitlin McReynolds and Joe Petch of Entropy restaurant

Low-calorie curry sauce entrepreneur Tiny Deol

Faiza of Middle Eastern food specialist Al-Mishkat

Scrambler, a new Leicestershire cider

Andy Ritchie from Deli Flavour at the Summer Food Festival

LOCAL PRODUCERS


Ringswood Ice Cream Made on a friendly family farm in WarwickshireCestersover Farm in Pailton, Warwickshire have been churning out Ringswood ice cream (named after their herd of British Friesians) for 20 years. “We started when milk quotas came in,” says Brian Dalby, who has farmed 500 acres at Pailton since 1968. “We use milk from our cows and cream from local farms. Ice cream sales make up 15% of the business and are holding up well.” Four generations of the Dalby family work at Cestersover, the youngest being entrepreneurial 17-year-old Bethan, who has launched a range of traditionally made butter from scratch, which she sells to pubs, bakers and farm shops. Ringswood ice cream is on sale in several farm shops in Leicestershire, Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire. Some of the wackier flavours they’ve been asked to create include chicken (for a local radio station), and Shepherd’s Pie. “Vanilla is still the best seller, though,” chuckles Brian.

CONTACT Ringswood Ice Cream, Pailton, www.ringswood.co.uk, 01788 832188

Move over Ben & Jerry; here are Ringswood, Quorndon and GopsallARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

The ice pack

F ew foods embody summer fun like a cornet filled with glistening globes of ice cream. We’re not talking Mr Whippy here, although most of us

have happy childhood memories of melting 99s and chasing Tony’s van after hearing it tinkle out the theme to Match of the Day.

No, we’re talking about the proper stuff, high in butterfat, made by small-scale artisan producers using milk and cream from local farms. Happily, the region boasts at least three ice cream makers who fit the bill. So next time you fancy a rum and raisin (or a Shepherd’s Pie cornet – see below), why not

give the big boys a wide berth and track down cold stuff that’s been made with love on local farms? Two producers here use milk from their own Friesians and the third uses cow juice from a mile away. They’re passionate about what they do and make great ice cream. We know. We’ve sampled them.

ICE CREAM MAKER

1

On sale at Oakdale Farm Shop, Rearsby

Friesians and lush fields make great ice cream

Sheila, Bethan and Brian Dalby

Ice cream


...a few hours later out comes fresh,

local ice cream

There are around 100 or so Friesians at Culloden Farm

Kitty Thorp in the ice cream making room.

Gopsall FreshCream of LeicestershireThe ice cream making room on Culloden Farm on the Gopsall Estate near Twycross, west Leicestershire is a symphony of spotless stainless steel. From here, Gopsall Fresh Farmhouse Ice Cream is created by the Thorp family – comprising brothers Tony and Norman, Tony’s wife Alison and their daughters Kitty, Victoria and Jo – using milk from the farm’s 100 or so British Friesians. It is then sold across the region in farm shops including Farndon Fields, Market Harborough (see p68), Roots at Thorpe Farm, Barkby Thorpe, and Wing Hall, Rutland. Gopsall ice cream is also sold at Ashby, Market Bosworth and West Bridgford farmers’ markets. The Thorp family have worked the land near Twycross – part of the Crown Estate – since 1934. Culloden Farm now produces dairy, beef and cereal, and started making ice cream in 2007. “British Friesian milk has a butterfat content of 4%, whereas Holstein milk contains 3.8%,” says Tony Thorp. “Ice cream has to have at least 5% butterfat to be called ice cream, so we boost fat content using cream from the local dairy. Our ice cream has a fat content of 8-10%.”CONTACT Gopsall Fresh, Twycross, www.gopsallfresh.org.uk, 0116 2232372

Where did you get that hat?

“We’ve made Shepherd’s Pie flavour but vanilla is still the biggest seller”

Quorndon CountryMade with Lubcloud Dairy milkIf you’ve eaten out in Leicestershire, chances are you’ve enjoyed some of Peter Crowe’s ice cream. Tucked away in an outbuilding at Bawdon Lodge Farm near Woodhouse Eaves, 40-year-old Peter makes ice cream in a huge variety of flavours using organic milk and cream that’s travelled just one mile from Lubcloud Dairy. Peter supplies restaurants and can create virtually any flavour. Having been a chef himself at venues such as The George Hotel of Stamford and Stapleford Park, he knows all about high standards. “I took this business on seven years ago when I got tired of the hours that chefs have to keep,” says Peter.

CONTACT Quorndon Country Ice Cream, Charley Crossroads LE12 9YE, 07843 618943

Peter combines flavour with Lubcloud cream

and milk in his churner...

ICE CREAM MAKER

2

ICE CREAM MAKER

3

TURN OVER FOR COOL RECIPES

ICE CREAM


A delicate combination to enjoy this summer, says Vanessa Kimbell

S!awb"r#,Vanill$ & Ros% ic% &ea'The strawberries came early this year. I never eat

them out of season as they are nothing but a disappointment – so I gorge on them in the summer not least because their perfect state is

so fleeting. Under ripe they lack fragrance; overripe they lose their texture. Really, strawberries are best served warm from the summer sun – left to ripen on their own they develop a deep sweetness and it is at this point you must savour the moment. Seize the opportunity and catch their heavenly taste in ice cream, emphasising their feminine charm with rose and vanilla.

VANESSA KIMBELL’S

To make about 10 iced lollies

* 200g PYO strawberries

* 4 tbsp caster sugar (depending on sweetness of strawberries)

* Splash orange or lemon juice

* 200g kiwi fruit, peeled and chopped

* 10 fresh mint leaves

* 500g award winning Manor Farm Smooth and Creamy Yogurt from Thrussington, Leicestershire

* Lolly moulds

Great Food Magazine’s Strawberry, Kiwi and Mint Lollies Refreshing, healthy and good for entertaining little ones This is a great recipe to make with kids. Visit your local Pick Your Own Farm (there’s a PYO map at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk), stock up on fruit – it doesn’t have to be strawberries – and get lolly making. But first you’ll need some moulds – ours are by Kitchencraft and are ideal because they catch drips.

1

1Wash, hull and halve strawberries and place in a large saucepan with sugar, kiwi fruit and orange juice.

Prepped!This recipe is from Prepped, my new cook book for time-short foodies. In Prepped the recipes link together to save time. For example, with mackerel and dill paté you make double, using the other half for mackerel and dill pasta for supper – same ingredients, two meals.

Ones you’ve picked are bestYes, you can buy strawberries but what a delight to pick your own. It’s one of those things we all think we’ll do but before you know it, the season is finished – so go this weekend! My favourite PYO is Dovecote Farm (see p66). Vanessa Kimbell

Strawberry picking at Seldom Seen Farm, Billesdon, Leicestershire

Recipes


Strawberry, Vanilla and Rose ice creamServes 8

* 500ml double cream

* 200ml full fat milk

* 5 egg yolks

* 425g fresh strawberries * 125g vanilla sugar (or caster sugar with a vanilla pod)

* 4 fresh roses or 3-4 drops of rose essence

1 Put the cream, milk and egg yolks and sugar in a heavy-based saucepan and stir over a moderate heat. Keep moving the liquid using a whisk (add the vanilla pod at this point if you don’t have vanilla sugar). 2 Keep stirring as the custard thickens. This can take 20–25 minutes so take your time and don’t be tempted to heat it quickly (you’ll get scrambled eggs!). The mixture will thicken. When the custard easily coats the back of a spoon, remove it from the heat. 3 Check the rose petals for any extra guests and then drop them into the custard. Allow the custard to cool. I leave mine overnight – but if you are in a hurry use rose essence instead. 4 Hull the strawberries and blend to a liquid in a food processor. Sieve the petals out of the custard and pour into the strawberries. Blend the mixture. It is now ready to make into ice cream (if you want you can store this for up to two days before making it into ice-cream in a clean, airtight container). 5 Transfer into an ice-cream maker, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make the ice-cream. OR...If you make this by hand then you’ll need to pour the mixture into a shallow, freezer-proof container. Freeze for about an hour and then whisk. Return to freezer and then whisk every 45 minutes, 3–4 times to prevent ice crystals forming. Use a timer to remind you – I often forget!

FOR TWO MORE SUPER SUMMER RECIPES, TURN TO PAGE 78

2

2 Simmer on a lowish heat for about ten minutes until the fruit has broken down to mainly liquid (some lumps are fine).

6 6 To remove frozen

lollies from moulds, place them into lukewarm water until the lollies slide out.

3

3 Remove from the heat, add your mint leaves and blend using a hand-held electric blender.

4

4 Add the Manor Farm Yogurt (gold award winner at last year’s Nantwich Dairy Awards) and blend again.

5 5 Now pour mixture

into lolly moulds and place into freezer. Lollies will take a few hours to freeze.

A cool and fragrant taste of summer

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CHEF PROFILE


In the kitchen, Lyddington

Valentino was a breeze compared to the

Marquess chickens

L yddington in Rutland is one of those perfect villages. Tucked well away from the main roads, it sits there

quietly looking gorgeous. Who would have thought that

behind the walls of one of its two pubs lies a story quite as dramatic as Brian Baker’s? From humble beginnings, the local lad’s journey has involved becoming the youngest ever chef to receive a Michelin star, swanning around the Mediterranean cooking for A-list celebrities, helping to invent the gastropub, catering for parties of 12,000 and eventually returning home to provide classic modern British comfort food as chef patron of the Marquess of Exeter.

Escape from RutlandIt all started in Uppingham in the late 70s, washing up at the Lake Isle Hotel and helping out at Culpin’s butchers (both still exist). By 16 he knew what he wanted, sat down with the Good Food Guide and wrote 20 letters. He nearly ended up at Raymond Blanc’s in Oxford, but eventually stayed local and joined Tim Hart’s Hambleton Hall. Armed with a CSE in home economics, he started as a commis to Michelin-starred Nick Gill (brother of critic A.A.).

“After 18 months I was told I was being groomed to be head chef – I was told I was ‘a natural’,” he says. “When Nick left in 1984 I took over, aged 21, and retained the star. Of course at that age I had no man management skills whatsoever and there was a lot of pressure. Tim Hart was very good at protecting me, maybe too much on a personal level because after 10 years at Hambleton, I’d really had very little exposure to the outside world.”

He needed to move on, and with the next job he was catapulted into a world of private jets and supermodels

HOTEL PROFILE

The Marquess of ExeterA beautiful 17th century thatched building in idyllic Lyddington near Uppingham, the Marquess is part country pub, part hotel, part restaurant. It combines a rustic ambience with luxurious feel. The Marquess now has its own herb garden, laying hens and produces preserves.

as private chef to the Italian fashion designer Valentino.

“He was charming, loved his food and had strong views about it – risottos were to be stirred for 22 minutes exactly.” On any one day Baker would find himself in Rome, Gstaad, Capri or St Tropez, cooking lunch in the office and maybe a private dinner for 12 in the evening. “There was an open budget, so shopping was amazing. It was a case of ‘Naomi and Elle are popping round’, so I’d go out and get the biggest lobsters available.”

Food would be presented on huge platters so the fashionistas could pick precisely what they wanted – a sharing ethos Baker has carried forward with him ever since.

Even this kind of life begins to pall, though. “It was exciting, but ultimately you exist under the shadow of someone else. You have all the trimmings, but it’s not really your life.”

Cannes partiesAfter a short spell back in the UK, he returned to the Mediterranean, this time cheffing on a 200ft yacht based in Antibes, the weekend retreat of a Mexican billionaire and his glamorous wife. They would operate on Mexican

time so dinner would be required at 3am, but in between weekends and the occasional trip to Seville or Tangiers, Brian could relax on deck, top up his tan and watch frolicking dolphins.

Greater challenges were required and he returned to the UK to head up the busy Criterion in Piccadilly,

serving 600 diners a night with high quality brasserie food. He would also assist in opening the Abingdon, a venue that helped pioneer the gastropub concept. It was hugely successful but when Capital Radio took over, thinking they knew how to make money from catering, he got out.

He’s cheffed for Sir Elton and catered for 12,000. Brian Baker is now back home in Rutland but isn’t putting his feet up

Life after the Yellow Brick Road

BRIAN BAKER

ARTICLE: TIM BURKE

Traditions

Parathas.


Bar area is cosy, with flagstones and original fireplace

Expect a warm welcome from staff Joanna Wendlant

and Radek Pedikowski

It’s farmhouse chic at the Marquess

Spacious and comfortable dining room

Rocket Man In his kitchen, Brian Baker makes a

point of using herbs grown in the Marquess’ garden, including mace, coriander, peppermint and lovage.

CHEF PROFILE


CONTACT Marquess of Exeter, 52 Main Street, Lyddington, Rutland LE15 9LT 01572 822477, www.marquessexeter.co.uk

As it happened, a friend knew that one Elton John was in the market for a personal chef. Baker’s credentials checked out and he was off again to Nice. “It was hugely interesting. Elton was not a foodie like Valentino but there were plenty of parties and you can imagine the guest list when it got to events like Cannes. I’d be in the kitchen and Elton would come round to introduce Sigourney Weaver or Sharon Stone.”

Baker speaks affectionately and protectively about Sir Elton, but after two years it was back to London and another change of direction with a massive corporate events company. He found himself running the annual ball for 12,000 Vodafone staff. “It was as different from personal cheffing as you can imagine. We’d create a small town in a matter of weeks, with 200 chefs in five kitchens.

“I suppose I was swinging between extremes but I’m pleased and proud to have fed that number of people and done it with style.”

Eventually, the prospect of his own dining pub back in Rutland started to appeal. He made it a reality with the cosy Fox and Hounds in Knossington: “It was a great pub, with a great clientele and it worked well, though there was no potential to develop it.”

But a little later the Marquess of Exeter became available and it fitted

the bill perfectly. “Two and a half years on and I think we’ve done a great job in a tough climate. The philosophy centres around great food, great service, in comfortable surroundings – it ain’t rocket science.”

The Marquess has 17 newly refurbished bedrooms and does a tidy trade from Rutland’s booming tourism business. The restaurant, with its natural woods, earthy tones and menu of brilliantly executed classics remains the key to the business.

A hallmark of Baker’s approach is conviviality. He is well known for his sharing plates of ribs of beef and joints of lamb presented at table on a board with a carving knife. “It’s amazing how many people go out to eat and sit there not talking. I want people to interact – with these dishes you have to cut it up, share, talk about the food – it just helps get people communicating.

“It’s food from the heart,” concludes Baker. “It’s the staples like chicken liver parfait, rib of beef and crème brûlée that benchmark the restaurant. I’m not trying to be Heston Blumenthal, but I do say come and have a crème brûlée and it could be the best example you’ve ever eaten.”

“Elton wasn’t a foodie like Valentino but there were plenty of parties and you can imagine the guest list”

From garden from fork

“Food from the heart” Brian loves to serve simple, tasty

classics but has become best known for his sharing dishes

Guests can choose from 17 freshly refurbished bedrooms

espresso bar café & the lookout gallery

gardenbarn

A FEAST FOR YOUR SENSES AND A TREAT FOR YOU AND YOUR HOME

HOME G ARDEN AR T GIFT

COTESBACH

OPEN TUE - SAT 9.30 - 5.30. SUNDAY 11- 4. CLOSED MONDAY. OPEN BANK HOLIDAYS

TOWN END FARM. RUGBY ROAD, COTESBACH. 2 MILES FROM LUTTERWORTH ON THE A426.

TEAS & COFFEE

HOMEMADE

SOUP & CAKES

POTSPLANTS

VINTAGESCULPTURE

SCARVESJEWELLERY

ENAMELWAREBASKETS

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OBELISKSHEARTSHOOKSFRAMES

OBJET JUNK

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WILDLIFE

CARDS

....COME & EXPLORE !

Also in COTESBACH at The Stable Yard: and Naturally Good Food, specialists in organic, gluten free and whole foods. Jason’s Organic Butchers

LE17 4HS / 01455 550900 www.gardenbarn.co.uk

T H E C H E Q U E R SW O O L S T H O R P E B Y B E LV O I R

L O R D N E L S O NW I N T H O R P E

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THE CHEQUERS, WOOLSTHORPE BY BELVOIR, LINCS NG32 1LUTELEPHONE 01476 870 701 CHEQUERSINN.NET

LORD NELSON, GAINSBOROUGH ROAD, WINTHORPE, NEWARK, NOTTINGHAM NG24 2NN

TELEPHONE 01636 703 578 LORDNELSONWINTHORPE.CO.UK

ENJOY GREAT FOOD AT BOTH COUNTRY PUBSServing lunch & dinner 7 days

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p27_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:27p27_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:27 22/6/11 09:29:1922/6/11 09:29:19

Did you know...Fruit smoothies and yogurt or fromage frais also can be frozen into delicious ice lollies. Get experimenting to find your favourite flavours – also see p21.

JAMS & PRESERVES


Don’t limit yourself to just jam, says Rosemary Jameson, try making cordials, iced lollies and sinful sauces, too

Su!" #e$%i&’Preserving isn’t just all about jams and chutneys –

you can make some lovely additions to your repertoire, especially during the summer months. Ice-cream sauces for... well, ice cream, obviously;

cordials for long, cool drinks and ice lollies.All the lovely summer berries are out in force now and

what better than to make a range of amazing cordials bursting with all of those flavours? You can make a single flavour such as blackcurrant, or combine a mixture of berries to make a delicious Very Berry Cordial. Why not try rhubarb or gooseberry? These flavours are rarely found commercially but both taste fantastic. If you follow the water-bath sterilisation process (see below) then cordials will keep well for around a year but you should refrigerate once opened. I do have a different sort of warning though – once you’ve made your own you might find it hard to return to shop-bought cordials!

Ice lolliesThere are some great ice lolly moulds around now so if you have small – or not-so-small – children, it is easy to make a batch with all your lovely cordials. Dilute to taste, fill up the moulds and freeze. They will be popular and you know they only contain fruit, sugar and water. A great treat for the kids

and a cost effective, popular idea for a school fête or garden party. I haven’t tried doing this but your lollies could perhaps be made, taken from their moulds and wrapped in non-stick freezer paper for bulk storage.

Fruity saucesAt Jam on the Hill we also make a range of fruit ice-cream sauces, close to a coulis in style, and packed with flavour. They can be as individual as your imagination allows. To make, cook any combination of fruits and berries until soft. Process in the goblet of a food processor and sieve if you want to remove seeds. Measure the resulting pulp and stir in an equal amount of caster sugar. Cook over a medium heat until the sugar is dissolved and the fruit sauce thickens slightly. You are basically trying to create an unset jam, so don’t cook for too long.

Waterbath methodWhen your sauce is ready, fill sterilised bottles and put the caps on loosely. Stand on a folded tea towel or J-cloth in a waterbath (deep saucepan) filled with cold water and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, remove from the pan and twist the caps on firmly. Leave to cool – the sauces will keep for a year or so but must be refrigerated once opened.

Rosemary JamesonRosemary is never happier than when stirring a vat of steaming jam! She runs preserving classes at Jam on the Hill near Oakham and also owns jam kit retailer www.jamjarshop.com

V"' B"r' c(dia)This will make about 1.5 litres

* 2kg mixed summer berries of your choice

* Granulated sugar

1 Cook the fruit gently until soft, adding 200ml water to prevent sticking. Squash the fruit with a wooden spoon to release all the juices – this will take 30-45 minutes depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Pour into a clean jelly bag

and leave to drip into a large measuring jug

overnight.

2 Next day, wash all of your bottles and heat them in a medium oven (not too hot) for 20 minutes to sterilise them. 3 Measure the juice and add 700g of sugar for every litre of juice. Heat the mixture gently to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat and pour hot into the sterilised bottles. Seal loosely and sterilise in a waterbath (see above) to lengthen shelf life. This cordial will keep for a year unopened. Refrigerate after opening. 4 Once you have made your cordials, dilute to taste with either still or sparkling water, soda… or Champagne.

Put all those summer fruits

to good useHomemade

cordial is perfect for barbecues

Summer recipes


Upcoming classes at Jam On The Hill…

Si!u" Bu#$cotc% &uceAnother crowd pleaser is Jam on the Hill’s Butterscotch Sauce for ice cream. Actually, forget the ice cream.

You will need:* 100g butter

* 150g soft brown sugar

* 100g granulated sugar

* 250g golden syrup

* 200ml double cream

* Few drops vanilla essence

1 Place butter and sugars in a medium-sized saucepan together with the syrup. Heat slowly, until completely melted and the sugars are dissolved and liquid. 2 Continue to heat slowly for around a further five minutes, then turn off heat. 3 Gradually stir in the cream followed by the vanilla essence. Stir gently for a further 2-3 minutes or until the sauce is completely smooth.4 Serve hot or cold. This will keep for several weeks in a jar in the fridge.

Sugar and cream... don’t let anyone tell you they’re bad for you

Where to buy?Jam on the Hill products, including the butterscotch sauce pictured, are available to buy at a variety of shops in the region, including Deli Flavour, Leicester, Oakham Co-Op, Stamford Garden Centre and Caffe Italia, Melton.

All classes are priced £75 and run by Rosemary Jameson. Included is a simple lunch plus teas and coffees. All equipment and ingredients are supplied – just bring yourself.Classes take place at The Old Smithy, Burley on the Hill, near Oakham.

July 30 and 31: Summer FavouritesMake raspberry jam, blackcurrant cordial and delicious courgette and mint chutney.

August 14, 18 and 19: Perfect PickleCreate perfect piccalilli, special spiced orange mustard and a variety of classic vinegars.

September 9: Autumn HarvestUse the stone fruits of autumn – plums, greengages and damsons – to make jams.

September 10: Autumn ApplesProduce beautiful apple chutney ready for Christmas, plus simple but superb lemon curd.

Learn to preserve!

More details at www.jamjarshop.com


LOCAL PRODUCER

The right geologyThis is a cross-section of part of Charnwood, north Leicestershire, home to some of Europe’s oldest volcanic rocks. Rain and meltwater can’t easily get through the blue (Bradgate Park) and purple areas, so runs off to find somewhere more welcoming. The brown area on which Swithland sits is that welcoming place, known as an artesian aquifer. Here the land is porous so becomes a store of spring water.

“My cellar used to flood all the time,” says Brian Beeby, the 60-year-old farmer who set up

Leicestershire’s Swithland Spring Water at Hall Farm, Swithland in 1998. “It was a complete pain but indirectly it led to the formation of the business.”

Brian came to Hall Farm in 1975 an arable, pig and sheep farmer with no idea he’d end up selling spring water. It was after 23 years of traditional farming that, in 1998, he decided to dive into the H2O market.

“We’d already diversified by leasing out stables. But we knew there was a spring down there and had seen the success that Buxton were enjoying.” Brian speculated that he might, just might, be able to reach the spring water, extract it, bottle it and sell it.

Diving inIt was a tough call. The investment needed to drill down to reach the water, pump it up, test it, and jump through the various environmental hoops, was high. And there was no guarantee it wouldn’t be money down the drain.

“I took advice from microbiologists and decided to go for broke. It took us 10 days to drill down through the rock and the first sample we took from 20 metres below ground proved promising. We then dug down to 80 metres and took another sample, which turned out to be perfect.”

Pumping it upToday Brian extracts 300,000 litres of spring water every week from the land below his farm, filling 7,500 19-litre water coolers (the remaining water is used to clean the bottles). “I employ a great, hardworking team of 18 and we conduct daily checks on the water in our own laboratory. Weekly samples go to an independent laboratory.”

Natural resourceSwithland Spring Water exists due to a natural geological feature called an artesian aquifer – a layer of porous rock that stores water (the light brown section in the diagram below). By drilling down and tapping into this, Brian can reach spring water. And lots of it. “There’s a huge amount down there,” he says.

The water gets there by seeking out cracks and fissures, being purified as it percolates through the strata. Eventually it reaches a bed of slate (used to build many Charnwood houses), and here it is stopped in its tracks, for the rock is impossible to penetrate. At this point Swithland’s bore hole and pump get in on the act, tapping

into a well in the saturated strata to pump up spring water. After rainfall hits the ground, it takes up to 50 years to

reach the well that Brian taps, all the time being filtered. Back above ground, the naturally purified water, which

may well have fallen on Leicestershire soil during a heavy rain shower in around 1961, goes straight into bottles and large containers (for offices – Swithland’s main market) before being taken to a variety of locations, including Harrods in London, Hotel Maiyango in Leicester, and to high quality delis such as North’s in Rothley. Brian’s decision to drill paid off, enabling us all to enjoy some of the purest spring water possible.

The Swithland logo“We use a picture of Old John [a tankard shaped building found at Bradgate Park’s highest point – see above right] on our labels because it symbolises the beauty of the Charnwood Forest area of Leicestershire,” says Brian. “Also, much of the water we extract begins its long journey underground on Bradgate Park.”

!l"red f# 50 $arsHow a farmer tapped into spring water. By Matt Wright

Markfield Knowl

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 miles

SandhillsLodge Benscliff Mountsorrel

River

SoarRoecliff

KinchleyHillSwithlandBrook

Brook


{ }“We’re hoping for a good, long hot spell

this summer. It’s been a while since

the last one. Demand doubles

during a heatwave.”

Brian Beeby

Swithland’s Old Parish Pump was

used until the 1900s to tap into the same water

source that Brian Beeby makes

use of today.

Bottlers Hans Schulze (left) and Wayne Davis put each water container through a 12-stage washing process before filling them with Swithland Spring Water.

Brian Beeby in front of Old John, Bradgate Park. Rain falling here today will reach 80m below ground, where it will be ready to be pumped back up by Swithland Spring Water, in around 2061.

As well as supplying offices with water coolers, Swithland water is available in bottles suitable for the restaurant trade; 330ml glass bottles are coming soon.

100 MILE MANLong Clawson stalwart Peter Tinsley has run 100 miles to

Stilton and back to mark the cheese maker’s centenary

There’s something about Stilton cheese and insane physical

challenges. Maybe it’s the guilt of eating too much. Back in 1750 or so, legend has it that Cooper Thornhill, landlord of the Bell Inn at Stilton, Cambridgeshire – the man who sold Blue Stilton to the masses – rode his horse 213 miles to Shoreditch in London and back in less than 24 hours in a kind of 18th century marketing stunt. Now, in June 2011, 53-year-old Long Clawson Dairy worker Peter Tinsley has run 100 miles from the Vale of Belvoir dairy to Stilton and back to mark the Leicestershire cheese producer’s centenary and to raise money for charity.

“A few years ago I said I’d run 100 miles when the dairy reached 100 years old. My promise kind of stuck,’’ says Peter, who works in

The 41 year stint!Almost as astonishing as the distance Peter ran is the number of years he’s worked at Long Clawson Dairy. “I’ve worked here for 41 years man and boy,” he says with a grin. “When I first started as a

13-year-old, the dairy had two 1000-gallon and one 1 500-gallon milk vats and you poured all the milk by hand. Now there are nine automatic vats on site, each holding 4000 gallons.”

CLAWSON RECIPE BOOKTo mark its centenary, Long Clawson Dairy has worked with Michelin-starred chef Tom Aitkens to publish a new book, Cooking Creatively with Cheese. It contains 45 beautifully photographed recipes. The hardback focuses on the successive decades that Long Clawson has been churning out the cheese, telling the dairy’s fascinating story and offering a selection of cheese-inspired recipes typical of each ten year chunk. You can even learn how to make a retro party buffet. Essential for lovers of local cheese, it’s available on Amazon, priced £7.95.

love to see the community get good facilities so everyone can enjoy playing sport here.”

The Clawson familyThe community spirit shown by Peter appears to be the deciding factor behind the long-term success of Long Clawson Dairy. “The dairy has been successful for 100 years because of its committed workforce,” says Peter. “There’s a family spirit here that runs through the company – everyone’s on first-name terms, whether you’re a managing director or a cleaner. The local connections within the farming community ensure that people take pride in their work. People seem to stay at Clawson for a lifetime. A number of workmates have worked here for 25 years.”

In completing his 100 mile challenge, Peter has certainly done his colleagues and the local community proud. Donate at: justgiving.com/longclawsondairycentenary

the packing department at Clawson. Luckily, he’s done several ultra runs in the past including a 40-miler from Quenby Hall to Stilton – the historic route that the cheese used to travel to be sold at the Bell on the Great North Road. But 100 miles is still double the longest distance he’s run in the past.

MotivationAs well as marking the co-operative dairy’s centenary, Peter is raising money for changing room facilities to be built at Long Clawson village hall. A changing room might not sound like the biggest motivator but to Peter it is important. “I’ve lived in Long Clawson village all my life and I’d

Peter had supporters running with him all the way

Milk was hand poured at Long Clawson when Peter first joined in 1970

FOOD PEOPLE


Swithland Spring Water are celebrating 10 successful years of

bottling – particularly for the water cooler market – and now

bottling Sparkling and Still water into elegant

750ml glass bottles.

Tel: 01509 891189www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk

A locally sourced butcheryA fully stocked butchery with

over 100 locally

sourced and homemade

items

NOW ON OFFER:THE BBQ PACK

- 4 sausages, 4 burgers,4 lamb kebabs & 4 beef

kebabs for £10.50!Also, please visit:

Stamford Garden Centre, Casterton Road.Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm, Sun 10am to 5pm.

01780 765656www.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

Tel. 01163 191102 www.soapoftheearth.co.uk

TTTeelll 0001111111166663333 1119999111111100022

Soaps made from 100% natural ingredients

Our olive oil soaps are carefully handmade from the fi nest Botanical oils and are gentle and moisturising. Rich in Olive oil they will make your skin feel soft and supple.


For this recipe you will need 8cm stainless steel baking rings and a non-stick baking tray.1 Lightly grease the baking sheet and baking rings with some soft butter.2 Line the rings with bacon.3 Crack the eggs into the centre of the moulds and season with flaked sea salt and fresh milled black pepper.4 Drizzle a little rapeseed oil on top and add a small sprig of thyme.5 Bake, along with cherry tomatoes, in a pre–heated oven at Gas Mark 5 (190C) for approximately five minutes (until the egg is set)6 Serve immediately on a slice of lightly buttered sourdough toast.

Red Lio!’s midsumm"’s da# pla$"Whether the sun is shining or rain is pouring, this schedule from the Red Lion will brighten your mood and table


You only have to spend a few minutes in Stathern’s Red Lion in Leicestershire’s Vale of Belvoir before you feel a steadying sense of relaxation. It could be the

beer, the rustic interior or the aromas coming from the Bib Gourmand-winning kitchen. The Red Lion team knows how to kick back with good food, as their latest itinerary reveals...

12 noonPre-dinner drinkA summer cocktail to get you in the mood for eating. Don’t feel guilty about enjoying a snifter – the sun is over the yardarm.

10am Brunch/breakfastThis is a satisfying way to start a leisurely day. Just add a dollop of your favourite brown sauce or some English mustard. A quick and easy classic, but you’ll need some baking rings.Oven-baked egg and bacon on toast with cherry toms

* 2 small free range eggs

* 3 rashers thin streaky smoked bacon

* 1 knob butter

* 1 slice toasted sourdough bread

For each serving

BEER WITH YOUR LUNCH?Oldershaw Brewery of Grantham is yet another local maker of craft ales. Their beers include Flag Fen, Mowbray Mash and Old Boy (named after the traditional East Anglian term for anyone male, regardless of age). Caskade (4.2% ABV) is a pale golden beer with a hoppy aroma. It’s well balanced between sweet and bitter and as such goes well with roast chicken.

Perfect way to start the day

STRAWBERRIES & CREAM* 50ml strawberry vodka * Ice

* Cream soda * Chopped strawberries

To make strawberry vodka, place a punnet or so of washed, quartered strawberries in a clean Mason jar and add a bottle of vodka. After 24-48 hours, the colour will have drained from the fruit. At this point your vodka is ready. Now pour 50ml of strawberry vodka over ice into a long glass. Top up with cream soda, before adding fresh chopped strawberries and mint leaves. Decorate with a vanilla pod.


Home cooking

JULY 12, COOKING DEMO WITH SEAN HOPEMichelin-starred chef Sean Hope is co-owner of the Red Lion. On July 12 he’ll be demonstrating a seasonal menu at the Red Lion, offering cooking tips and answering questions while he cooks. He’ll then serve lunch to all guests. Price: £40. More info at the web address below.

CONTACT The Red Lion Inn, Red Lion Street, Stathern, Leicestershire LE14 4HS, 01949 860868, www.theredlioninn.co.uk

Coming up at the Red Lion…

xxx xxx x x xx x xxxxxxxxxx

1 Crush the strawberries with your hands in a large mixing bowl to break them up. 2 Gently heat the golden syrup and treacle, then add to the strawberries and mix well.3 Add the rest of the ingredients and mix.4 Place the mixture into your lined tart ring and bake in an oven preheated to Gas 1 for 25-30 minutes.5 Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little before serving with a good dollop of clotted cream or ice cream.

2pm LunchTuck into a slow cooked, free range local chicken with tangy caponata. As a side serve a large bowl of fresh rocket and watercress, drizzled with good quality balsamic vinegar.

Slow-roast chicken with Jersey Royals and olive and lemon caponata Serves 4-6 * Whole Fosse Meadow Farm chicken (around 2.2kg)

* 2 sprigs rosemary and 1 sprig thyme

* Large knob soft butter

* 1/2 lemon

* 9 cloves garlic – crushed

* 1 kg washed Jersey Royal potatoes (cut in half)

* 10 crushed pink peppercorns

* 2 tbsp Worcester sauce

3pm PuddingStill got room? Then finish off with this before heading to the Red Lion.

Strawberry treacle tartFor this wonderful dessert, which is great hot or cold, you will need a pre-lined eight-inch tart ring with sweet pastry rolled 2-3mm thick (use a 370g pack).

Serves 6-8* 750g golden syrup

* 250g black treacle

* 250g breadcrumbs

* 1 grated dessert apple

1 Pre-heat oven to Gas 6. Place chicken in a roasting tin and smear breasts and thighs with soft butter.2 Put lemon, one sprig of rosemary, four garlic cloves and thyme in cavity and season with flaked sea salt and fresh milled black pepper.3 Meanwhile, place Jersey Royals into a roasting tin, cover with remaining rosemary and garlic cloves, plus sea salt and crushed peppercorns. Add Worcester sauce and drizzle with a good quality rapeseed oil.4 Roast both chicken and potatoes for 20 minutes. Remove, cover both roasting tins with foil and reduce temperature to Gas 1 (100C). Slow roast chicken and potatoes for two hours. Allow chicken to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Where to buy?The Red Lion gets its chickens from

family-run farm Fosse Meadows of Frolesworth near Lutterworth, Leics.

You can buy online at fossemeadows.com

* 7 ripe strawberries

* Zest of 2 lemons

* Clotted cream or ice cream to serve

An indulgent summer pud

For the caponata...* 1 tbsp clear honey

* 1 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard

* 2 tbsp rapeseed oil

* 2 tbsp chopped parsley

* 2 tbsp green pitted olives

* 1 shallot – finely chopped

* 1 tbsp miniature capers

* 1 tbsp chopped gherkins

* 1 preserved lemon – flesh removed, zest finely chopped

1 Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl. 2 Store in a sealed kilner jar in the fridge. However, it is best served at room temperature.

MOROCCAN FLAVOURS


“I picked up this tagine spice mix from a street seller of herbs and spices,” says Phil Sharpe, while marinading

lamb in the kitchen of Leicester’s Hotel Maiyango. “I was in the coastal town of Essaouira, Morocco at the time. What he gave me turned out to be one of the simplest but best Moroccan spice mixes.”

We’re at Maiyango with Janet Smith, the latest Great Food reader to have their dream dish cooked by Phil. “I love local lamb, which I buy from a small producer in my home village of Tilton on the Hill, Leicestershire,” says Janet. “I also had a memorable holiday in Morocco ten years ago and adored the food, so my dream dish is to combine local with north African.”

Phil is also passionate about Moroccan food and while travelling there gained inspiration for a number of dishes that appear on the Maiyango menu.

Fruit and nuts“It was in Morocco that I discovered adding walnuts and dried apricots to lamb dishes can work brilliantly,” says Phil. “The bitterness of the walnuts against the sweetness of the apricots works really well with the meat. This dish is a favourite with our regular diners.”

Tagine Spiced Lamb Rump with Spicy Cherry Tomato Couscous

Hotel Maiyango’s Phil Sharpe shares a hard-won recipe inspired by travelling in Morocco. Treasure this one

MAIYANGO DREAM DISH

Real dealThis well-used, simple tagine spice recipe is from Phil’s own treasured cookbook. It was given to him by a Moroccan street vendor.

READER’S PROFILE

Janet Smith teaches economic history part-time at Leicester University. A passionate cook, she has plenty of local tips. “Joseph Morris of Wigston is a very good butcher, and I get my fish and veg from John Heath, also of Wigston. One of my favourite places to eat out is at The Bell, East Langton.

Slice of medium rare heaven

Local lamb meets north Africa

Janet Smith cooks her lamb to perfection

1 “Cling film is useful for creating an airtight lid, so that food carries on

cooking off the heat. But don’t use the cheap stuff and don’t try it on scorching hot pans.”

2 ”Quickly de-seed a chilli to reduce heat by rubbing one

between your palms. Wash your hands afterwards though!”

3 “A good guide for judging how cooked your steak is: gently

connect little finger to thumb and feel the muscle below your thumb. It will be taut – this is how a well-done steak will feel. Now connect little finger to ring finger – this is medium. Thumb to middle finger is medium rare and thumb to index finger, rare.”

4 ”After searing your marinated lamb, turn the heat to between

medium and high – but not too hot.”

1 TomatoesHalve the cherry tomatoes and place on a tray. Generously season with the sea salt, dried herbs and brown sugar. With the oven at the lowest setting, place the tomatoes on the bottom shelf and cook for as long as possible – ideally overnight, but for a minimum of three to four hours. Once cooked you can store them in the fridge for a few days to use when you need them.2 For the couscousIn a large pan, gently sweat the carrot and onion, add a teaspoon of tagine spice and a little of the rapeseed oil and cook for 4-5 minutes. Add all but 50ml of tomato juice and slowly reduce by half. Add the rest of the oil, season, add the couscous and remove from the heat. Stir, cover with several layers of cling film (see below) and shake thoroughly until the cling film begins to rise. Place in a warm place for 20 minutes to finish cooking. 3 For the lamb rumpScore the fat in a criss-cross pattern and add half of the mint and coriander, half of the chilli and ginger, all but a pinch of the remaining tagine spice

mix and a little olive oil. Marinade for as long as possible, preferably overnight. To cook, sear the lamb in a hot pan, then lower the heat as it begins to colour. After about five minutes, transfer to an oven set at 180C, and cook for 8-10 minutes. Once cooked, allow to rest for 8-10 minutes.4 For the sauceIn a small pan, gently sweat off the remainder of the chilli, ginger, and a pinch of tagine spice mix and cook out. Add the remaining 50ml of tomato juice and some beef stock (or Bisto!) and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add a quarter of the remaining chopped coriander and mint.5 To buildToss the spinach in a warm pan with a little butter and seasoning. Remove cling film from the couscous and add 16 halves of the spicy cherry tomatoes, the remaining coriander and mint, and the raisins, apricots and walnuts. Mix thoroughly. To serve, flatten a little spinach into four oiled stainless steel rings; add the couscous, leaving a small gap at the top, and then press in the remaining cherry tomatoes. Carve

the lamb rump, adding the juices from the pan to the gravy. Divide the remaining spinach between the four plates, and place the carved lamb on top of the spinach, before adding the gravy.

1 2

3 4

Recipe

* 2 tsp tagine spiced mix (see handwritten recipe, opposite page)

* 4 x 200g lamb rumps

* 1 tbsp chopped ginger

* 1 tsp chopped chilli

* 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

* 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint

* 1 litre tomato juice

* 150ml rapeseed oil

* 200g couscous

* 500g spinach (blanched)

* 16 cherry tomatoes (on the vine)

* Sea salt and cracked pepper

* Pinch of favourite dried herb

* Demerara sugar

* 1 diced onion

* 1 diced carrot

* 50g dried apricots, chopped

* 50g walnuts, chopped

* 20g raisins

Tagine Spiced Lamb Rump with Spicy Cherry Tomato CouscousServes 4

CONTACT Hotel Maiyango, 13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester, 0116 2518898, maiyango.com

Slow-cooked spicy cherry toms star

in this dish

Phil’s tips

Hotel Maiyango are passionate about cooking with local produce. Next

issue Phil will create the ultimate

Leicestershire dish

MAIYANGO LOVES LOCAL


www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

8 Windsor StreetMelton MowbrayLeicestershireLE13 1BUTel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening HoursMon 9.00 – 3.00Tues 8.30 – 5.00Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.00Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.00

oard co uk

– 3.0– 5.0– 4.0– 4.0

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Stilton is our speciality, ours is sourced directly from Long Clawson Dairy, based just fi ve miles outside Melton Mowbray.

We would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of

Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the fi nest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford Cheese from Bertelin Cheese, and Sparkenhoe Farm Red Leicester.

nd

For a taste of the

best cheese from the

Melton area, why not

come and visit us?

melton cheeseboard.indd 1 25/10/10 10:06:33


“This has been a favourite of mine ever since I moved to England from Bangkok,” says Tukata (also see p6). “I like to trim the fat from the lamb but leave a bit on for extra flavour. I always cook the meat quickly, leaving it medium-rare, and love to serve it with my daughter’s favourite salad dressing (see right).

“When you eat this dish, I think it’s best to take a salad leaf in your hand, place a piece of lamb and other salad, rice or noodles inside it and drizzle on the dressing. Then eat it all together using your fingers – perfect!”

* 1kg boneless lamb leg

For the marinade...

* 1 garlic clove, crushed

* 1 onion, finely chopped

* 2 lemongrass stalks cut and crushed

* 1 lemon, thinly sliced

* Handful of mint, roughly chopped

* Handful of coriander, roughly chopped


* Sea salt and pepper

For the salad...As you wish – “I use lots of raw vegetables – thin strips of carrot, spinach, onion, tomato… “

For the salad dressing...

* 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

* 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint

* 1 tbsp of fresh finely chopped lemongrass

* Juice 2 lemons

* Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

* 1 tsp chopped chilli

* 1 tsp of honey


Serves 4

“Eat it all together using your fingers!”

Tukata Bird’s Thai grilled leg of lamb with salad

1 Cut lamb into single person portions (approximately 250g/person) and make salad and salad dressing.2 Mix the lamb marinade in a dish, then put the lamb in for at least 20-30 minutes – overnight would be even better.3 Heat griddle/grill until very hot – using a griddle gives a more authentic street-food taste. 4 Lay portions of lamb on the griddle and leave without moving for around two minutes – do not

touch or move it! Before turning, make sure the lamb is clearly marked or seared by the griddle – the mix of the slightly charred and clear meat is important for the final flavour.5 Turn and cook the other side - again without moving the lamb! 6 To serve, dress each lamb portion with a segment of lemon, slice of chilli and a coriander leaf. Put salad on the side and drizzle with dressing, add noodle or rice if wanted.


Recipe

Ciconia Vinho Regional Alentejano 2010

Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragonez

A laid-back, versatile red from southern Portugal with bold

plum flavours and herby notes. It will it partner the lamb

beautifully and drinks well without food too. £8.50.

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BUDGET

La Sauvageonne ‘Puech de Glen’ 2005

Grapes: Syrah, GrenachePush the boat out with this

Languedoc red. Described by Decanter as having “gorgeous

fruit purity”, it will work well with the complex flavours of

this dish. £15.99. duncan murraywines.co.uk

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BLOW IT!

CONTACTTukata Bird runs Tuk Tuk Foods (tuktukfoods.co.uk) and cooks at Mai Thai restaurant in Stamford (see p6).

Photography: www.abrackenbury.com


PUB WALK

T here are some great walks through the old fox hunting territory in and near the Vale of Belvoir (French for ‘beautiful

view’), northeast Leicestershire. It’s hard to believe now, but in the 19th century this area was the playground of red-coated, horn-blowing aristocrats –land once pummelled by horses’ hooves and shaped to provide good sport. Who knows how many pork pies – a snack created to feed huntsmen on the hoof – have been scoffed around the fox coverts and plantations that surround these pretty villages?

This walk, a relatively gentle seven-mile circuit, flirts with the Lincolnshire border and has the advantage of taking in three country pubs, two of which have a good reputation for food (see right).

Starting out at the Crown Inn in the lovely village of Sproxton, you’ll walk across open farmland towards Buckminster and Sewstern. Here, choose between the food-focused Tollemache Arms in Buckminster or friendly local

1PARK IN SPROXTON near the Crown Inn. With your back to the pub’s front door, turn

right and then go right again up Buckminster Road, before taking your first left up Stow Hill.

2TOWARDS THE TOP of the hill, turn

right onto a grassy path, following the ‘Mowbray Way’ sign. Walk out across open fields, following the path.

3AFTER AROUND 3/4 of a mile, join a stony farm track that skirts a

wooded area. Follow the waymarker, going straight on, following the hedge.

4WHERE THE TRACK bends right, go straight on, crossing the small wooden bridge. Then

carry straight on towards Buckminster, crossing another small bridge and carrying on uphill to follow the fence and waymarkers, crossing a third bridge.

5CARRY ON ALONG the fence, then head towards the five-bar gate. Go through it

and walk uphill into Buckminster.

6GO PAST THE CHURCH and mausoleum, through the green. At the main road,

turning right takes you to the Tollemache Arms (see right). After enjoying the Tollemache, with your back to the pub turn right, turn right again and then bear right down School Lane, following the school sign. Follow School Lane all the way to Sewstern (there is a pavement).

7AT THE END OF School Lane, turn left at the T-junction and soon you’ll come to the Blue

Dog – an honest village pub where there are a few guest ales to sample.

8AFTER VISITING the Blue Dog, go back up School Lane and turn left at the first public

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Hostelry hat-trick: Sproxton, Sewstern and Buckminster

OVERVIEW OF AREA

BuckminsterThis neat, well-cared-for village is owned by the Tollemache family – still in residence – who also lend their name to the village pub. Near the church is the Tollemache family

mausoleum, built in the Gothic Revival style in the 19th century.

A black dog in front of The Blue Dog, Sewstern

Step back in time to follow the hoof marks of old fox hunts, while enjoying three pubs

The Blue Dog in Sewstern, before making your way back towards Sproxton.

This walk is mainly flat (although there are some stiles) and because of the ample opportunities for refreshment en route, is perfect for a balmy summer’s day.

The walk

}


Sproxton and Buckminster

footpath sign you see, striking out diagonally across fields. Head for the large aerial in the distance (this is the Waltham- on-the -Wolds transmitter – the main TV transmitter for all terrestrial channels in the East Midlands), aiming for the gap in the hedge.

9GO THROUGH the gap in the hedge and across another field towards another gap in

the next hedge. Beyond this is a waymarker and a track on your right. Follow this track towards Buckminster.

10AT THE GARAGES turn left. When you reach the road turn right and walk through

the village. Take your next left, following the sign to Sproxton. As the road bends right after the houses, turn left, following the footpath sign into fields.

11WALK TOWARDS the wooded area and beyond the trees carry straight on,

following the hedge and yellow waymarker.

12SOON YOU reach the main B676. Turn right and follow the B676 for 150 yards (that’s

the only time you need to walk on this

The Crown, Sproxton

The home straight

PUB WALK

Detailed walk map

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Spotted on the outskirts of Buckminster

This 140-year-old pub won a bronze medal in the most recent East Midlands Tourism Awards for ‘Best Pub Experience’. The recently refurbished restaurant has a contemporary feel with an impressive floor-to-ceiling wine display. Both drinkers and diners are welcome and if the sun’s shining you might want to enjoy the beer garden. Great Food reviewer Rachel Quine – and diners we’ve spoken to who have eaten here since – have found the food and service to be excellent. Head chef David Presland’s menus are inspired by local, seasonal ingredients.The Crown Inn, Coston Road, Sproxton, Leics, LE14 4QB, thecrownatsproxton.co.uk

Situated on Buckminster’s Main Street, the Tollemache Arms has since February 2010 been run by two young couples who have refurbished the interior, introducing a library to go alongside the main bar and dining area. “The food was fantastic but this doesn’t quite feel like a proper country pub – it’s been modernised and is more like a dining-focused restaurant,” was the view of one Great Food subscriber who ate here recently. The pub’s website says “the bar is open to everyone, their muddy feet and their dogs.” That, plus the lure of good food, makes the Tollemache worth a visit. Tollemache Arms, 48 Main St, Buckminster, Leics NG33 5SA, tollemache-arms.co.uk

Tollemache, Buckminster

busy road). Where the road bends left, go straight on down a smaller road.

13FOLLOW THIS smaller road, bearing right, and after about half a mile, go left at the

footpath sign, over the stile. Cut diagonally over the field, going downhill to the next yellow waymarker.

14AT THE WAYMARKERgo over the stile and then over

another before crossing a bridge and following the hedge uphill. Sproxton soon comes into view. Follow the arrow towards the village.

15GO OVER ANOTHER stile and follow the public footpath through Nook Farm before

walking along The Nook back to your car (or back into The Crown Inn!).

NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are clear and accurate. It’s steep in places and likely to be muddy. Take a map – OS Explorer 247 – and allow enough time.

Buckminster church


LOCAL BEER

What to eat w!" Langto# b$%

for the beer’s bitterness and sweetness, one being least sweet or bitter.

Not only does this help people to choose what beers to buy, it aids bar staff who can read the Cyclops notes on the back of the pump clip. After each beer has been Cyclops-ed at Everards, the results are uploaded to www.cyclopsbeer.co.uk for all to see.

At the time of writing, 1242 beers have been through the Cyclops process and it has become the industry standard, a bit like the ‘1-10’ and ‘A-E’ system you see on wine bottles. But how do beers get Cyclops-ed?

Langton meets CyclopsSouth Leicestershire’s Langton Brewery recently came to Everards brewery to get their most popular ales graded by me and my colleague Mike Wootton. As always, we give each beer full lab analysis, principally to confirm alcohol content. Then the Cyclops session begins. First, we see how each ale looks in a glass and agree on a colour description, referring to our Cyclops word charts. Next, we give the beer a good sniff – again agreeing on

Bitter, sweet or well-balanced? Pale or chestnut brown? Spicy hop aroma or refreshing crisp

finish? The UK produces a mind-boggling number of beers, each with its own flavour and characteristics. There are around 800 breweries in the UK, all creating thousands of ales. So how on earth are you supposed to know whether that pint of Jimmy’s Lesser Spotted Dog is right for you and will go well with your Sunday Roast?

Meet CyclopsAt Everards in 2005 we invented a grading system called Cyclops to address this issue. So named because of the eye symbol used in its graphics (see right), Cyclops focuses on smell, flavour and colour and aims to describe what a beer is like before you buy. It offers a description for each brew so you know what you’re getting.

The principals of Cyclops are deliberately simple: describe the beer in terms of what it looks like, smells like and tastes like using no more than three simple words for each area. Scores (out of five) are also allocated

A matter of taste

Mark TetlowMark Tetlow is head of quality control for Everards Brewery and holds a Master Brewer diploma. He is the man who first dreamed up the Cyclops grading system

How do you know what beer to drink with dinner? Ask Cyclops

the three-word description before moving on to taste, sweetness and bitterness. This is how we ‘Cyclops’ each and every beer.

Inclined PlaneGolden ale (4.2%) with fruity, citrus taste is good with pasta, fish and salad.

Hop OnFull bodied chestnut brown best bitter (4.4%), ideal with roasts and pies.

BowlerDarker ale with cocoa smell and malty finish. Goes well with cheese and spicy foods.

Mike Wootton, Mark Tetlow and Langton’s David Dyson

stare lovingly at beer

Cyclops notes for Langton beers are available at www.cyclopsbeer.co.uk

Cyclops notes for Langton’s Caudle.

Not to be confused with new block cheeses – I’ll leave that to other

retailers – I’d like to introduce some new products from one of our local specialist makers. It’s a great source of pride within the industry that the last 20 years has seen a resurgence of interest in cheese making, resulting in a significant increase in the number and variety of British cheeses. Old recipes have been revived, such as Sparkenhoe Leicester, and new ones developed using old methods, milk from rare breeds and recipes from Europe, creating a rich array of modern and traditional British cheeses.

Not since the 17th century has Britain had such a diversity of cheese and around 500 new cheeses have been created in the last two decades. Many are sold only within their local area, by the producers themselves at farmers’ markets and in local shops. At the 2010 British Cheese Awards, according to the organisers there were 903 entries from 179 cheesemakers, and when you consider that they all start with the same raw material – milk – it never ceases to amaze me how richly varied the results can be.

A great example of a couple of new cheeses comes from Leicestershire Handmade Cheese, based near Market Bosworth, who

this cheese for a couple of months and everyone who’s tried it has been very complimentary. It’s created using raw milk from owner David Clarke’s dairy cows and made as a 5kg cheese, which is gently pressed to give it a semi-hard, slightly crumbly texture. Bosworth Field is then ripened for around three months and takes on a grey, wrinkly appearance. Similar in style to a true Caerphilly, it has a delicious fresh taste, with mild lemony overtones, and I find it a very moreish and pleasant cheese. At this time of year it’s great with a simple salad or as part of a ploughman’s.

An even more recent introduction to the Leicestershire Handmade Cheese stable is Battlefield Blue. When I first tasted this cheese, the dairy was still working on the recipe, but they have now refined it to produce a blue mould ripened cheese. Made with unpasteurised milk, the milk is heated and a mould added. It is then pierced to allow the veins to develop through the cheese.

Battlefield Blue is made as small individual cheeses weighing around 200g each and sporting an attractive grey green rind. The cheese is very creamy and moist, with a tang you would expect of a blue. I find Battlefield to be a very well balanced product with the correct levels of saltiness, extremely palatable and ideal for the cheeseboard.

As well as our shop in Melton Mowbray and our stall at Loughborough farmers’ market, you can buy these excellent cheeses from the Leicestershire Handmade Cheese stand at Ashby de la Zouch and Market Bosworth farmers’ markets... well worth seeking out!

Local cheese

Battlefield Blue comes as a small cylindrical cheese of about 200g

ABOUT THE WRITERCheese expert Tim Brown owns The Melton Cheeseboard, 8 Windsor St, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE13 1BU, 01664 562257 www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

• FOOD FOCUS • FOO

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FO

CUSBa!l"ieldBlu#

Jo Clarke of Leicestershire

Handmade Cheese

Ne$ ch%&s o' th# bl(k

“Not )nc# th# 17t* centur+ h, -.ai' had /c* 0 v1iet+ 2 ch%&”

The resurgence in British cheese making continues locally with two new creations from a small producer, says Tim Brown

have just been awarded the Good Housekeeping ‘Small Cheese Producer To Watch’ Award. Already well known for their Sparkenhoe Leicester, they have recently diversified, initially with Bosworth Field. We have stocked

Bosworth Field


BUSINESS TIPS


I’m sitting in my favourite local spot, the Cakehole in Barrowby, Vale of Belvoir. I

find their Red Velvet Cake provides excellent writing inspiration.

In this article I want to talk about consumer research. Whether you’re thinking of launching a food business or deciding your next menu, getting consumer insight and feedback is always important. Many companies make decisions on pure ‘gut feel’, which can work, but is more powerful if backed up with consumer input. Research doesn’t have to be expensive and can make all the difference.

1No need to splash outFor entrepreneurs on a shoestring budget there are

ways to gather key information about customers without hiring an outside research agency. Internet surveys and government data are great starting points. Government data can provide demographic information if you’re trying to work out the size of a business opportunity or your target user group (www.statistics.gov.uk).

For surveys, Survey Monkey is a useful tool that allows you to design your own survey and

analyse the results graphically (www.surveymonkey.com). Big retail brands are using this more and more, whether to understand how customers use their products or see what name they prefer for a new recipe. The basic service is free and the survey is set up as a simple link that can be posted on your Facebook page, website or sent by email. To increase responses without buying a database of names, I’d suggest entering everyone into a draw to win a meal or some delicious goodies. Try to keep the surveys to a maximum of five minutes in length.

2Make regular contact with consumersBefore paying for consumer

focus groups, there’s plenty to be learned from informal feedback. If you’ve got a website, invite customers to write about their good or bad experiences of your brand. Belvoir Cordials gets a lot of feedback this way and know that if someone’s taken the time to write, it’ll be honest. The pubs and restaurants that really get it right in my view are those that continually take time to ask guests what they like and what could be improved. It’s often the little touches made after listening to customers that make the difference – my local pub, for example, added a pork belly dish suggested by a regular; it was scrumptious, popular and the customer was thrilled.

3Have ambassadorsHaving a group of loyal target users for your business who

actively help shape new initiatives can be invaluable. An easy way to do this is through social media, where you can set up a forum or live chat, inviting existing members to give their comments through your Facebook page. Going a step further, I’d suggest a

Just ask…Feedback is crucial and needn’t cost the Earth. By Helen Chantrey

THE INSIDER

Belvoir Fruit Farms at the Real Food Show, Earls Court

What better way to spend the evening than in a local pub garden with a beer, Pimm’s or cider? Here are my top three local spots:

THE MARTIN’S ARMS, Colston Bassett (see right). Relax, play croquet or dine in the beautifully landscaped gardens, overlooked, as the pub says, “by only the church spire and the occasional inquisitive sheep”.CHEQUERS INN, Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir. Spacious with plenty of tables. The food is always great and it’s good for a big family gathering. FINCH’S ARMS, Hambleton. Smart old pub with a rear terrace offering great views over Rutland Water (pictured below).

The Insider’s top three beer gardens

tasting panel of five to ten people who you know are target customers. They’d be delighted to be invited once a month to give thoughts on new products or event ideas in return for a free meal.

4 Season with saltFor my final tip – I’m about to contradict myself – take

what you hear with a pinch of salt. What customers say shouldn’t necessarily be taken as gospel. Customers are brilliant for shaping menus, for example, but not necessarily best placed to tell you what the next big trends will be.

HELEN CHANTREYI love helping brands develop the right strategy for growth. Please have a look at my website to find out more: www.hownowmarketing.com

Case studyThis month, I want to talk about a pub and restaurant that is really getting it right with great food and the right atmosphere…

MARTIN’S ARMSWHERE? Pub and restaurant in Colston Bassett, south Notts.INTERIOR: English pub through and through. Cosy, with Jacobean fireplaces and oak tables. ATMOSPHERE: There’s a buzz as you walk in – lots of chatter and a welcoming feel. Everyone seems in a good mood, which makes you like the place instantly. FOOD: We’d heard it was good but our expectations were surpassed. I would describe the menu as English with a twist; the odd French or Japanese influence thrown in. One of the best meals we’ve had since moving to the region last September. FAVOURITES: The crab and edamame cocktail followed by monkfish chowder. CONTACT: themartinsarms.co.uk, 01949 81361

41 Halford Street, Leicester LE1 1TR - Tel: 0116 251 1889

www.chutneyivy.com

Business Lunches

Stylish Bar and Late Lounge

Venue Hire Available

Open Plan Kitchen

Elegant Dining Room

Pre Theatre Menu just £14.95

Reduced NCP Parking Rates

“contemporary dining space, combined with traditional Indian hospitality”

‘at the heart of Leicester’s cultural quarter’Beyond Expectations

www.greethamvalley.co.ukt: (01780) 460444 e: [email protected]

Wood Lane, Greetham, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7SN

Wedding FayreTHE FIRST 50 BRIDES ATTENDING IN THE MORNING AND THE FIRST 50 BRIDES IN THE AFTERNOON WILL RECEIVE A BRIDAL GOODY BAG!

EXHIBITORS INCLUDE:Bridal gowns Bridesmaids’ dresses Mother of the bride fashion

Men’s wear Cakes Photography Florist Linens Chair coversVenue dressers Travel agent Department store Jewellery Balloons

Stationery Entertainment Favours Hair and beauty GiftsCaricatures Cars Disco Chef’s demo and sampling!

FREE ADMISSION EVERYONE WELCOME

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Sunday 18th September 201110am to 3pm

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FOODIE LIVING


– they use chunks of shoulder meat for a textured, tasty filling.

However, a particular picnic favourite of ours is the freshly baked pasty. Ready-rolled puff pastry is the perfect thickness – fill with pretty much anything from leftover lasagne or curry to locally caught trout or farm shop favourites. Make a batch the day before (or freeze uncooked ready for when you are) and bake as you have breakfast. Wrap well and they’ll still be a little warm when you stop for lunch (if they last that long!). And they stand up to being packed with the cans, bottles, suntan lotion and the waterproofs.

But what about afters? Picnicking implies some sort of exercise – even if it’s that relatively short but remarkably difficult trudge across sand – and cake always hits the spot. Again, we recommend something that travels well, so forget cupcakes or delicate sponges and go for a good, moist fruit cake or slices of buttered tea bread. Make a few days in advance, which only makes them all the more delicious. We also believe that a checked table cloth or plaid travel rug is essential!

Life’s a picnic! W hether it’s sitting on the

beach with toes in warm sand, cycling around a

sparkling stretch of water, or rambling across fields full of ripening wheat, it is absolutely one of life’s great pleasures to find yourself a nice little spot to spread out your picnic. There is nothing like a bit of fresh air – along with the knowledge that you’ll get to walk off the calories later – to sharpen the appetite.

Our preference at Lucy’s Food is to forget the Tupperware (too bulky, too much to wash up) and feast on something that just needs unwrapping, takes two hands to eat and, probably, drops crumbs. After all, you’re outside so make the most of it! If we do take containers then they’re the ones we’ve recycled from the Chinese takeaway: these are light, stack into each other when empty and can be recycled again when you get home.

Of course, we have one of the best picnic foods in the world available here in Leicestershire – the pork pie. Different producers suit different tastes but our current pie of choice is Mrs King’s Melton Mowbray pork pie

Lucy CufflinLocal chef Lucy is author of acclaimed cookbook Lucy’s Food. She has recently opened a food and kitchenware shop in Leicester’s Stoneygate

Lucy’s beef and Stilton pasty* I packet ready rolled

puff pastry

* 300g minced beef

* I large onion, chopped

* 2 medium baking potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced and roughly chopped

* 50g Stilton, crumbled

* 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

* Salt & pepper

* 1 egg, beaten

Pack some hearty fare and head outdoors, says Lucy Cufflin

LUCY’S FOOD Lucy’s cookbook contains more than 350 tested recipes to suit all tastes. Published by Hardie Grant, you can buy it from Waterstones, Amazon or Lucy’s Food on 6 Francis Street in Leicester.

1 Gently cook onion in oil until soft and translucent. Add mince and brown lightly.2 Remove from heat, add potatoes and Stilton and season to taste.3 Using a side plate as a guide, cut four rounds from the pastry. If you need to re-roll, layer it rather than just squish it together as this will keep the pastry layered and air-filled.4 Place enough meat mixture in the centre of each pastry round so the edges of the pastry can meet.5 Brush egg around inside edge of pastry and crimp edges together.6 Place on non-stick baking sheet and brush liberally with egg.7 Bake at 190C for 50-60 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Enjoy.

PLEASING PICNIC SPOTSRutland Water is great for kids and there are some easy but beautiful walks of various lengths around Hallaton and Foxton Locks in south Leics. Also, stately homes and country houses make great picnic spots and often have free parking and marked walks around their grounds, so a lovely setting is guaranteed. Check out Leicestershire County Council, Forestry Commission and Woodland Trust websites for forest and woodland walks – these often have picnic areas and lavatories close to car parks.

Perfect ammunition for a smashing picnic

Pies are a must, but this could

be overkill

To celebrate its centenary Long Clawson Dairy has enlisted Michelin chefTom Aikens to bring a magic touch to a book which blends together thesocial history of a centurywith some mouth watering recipes.

The Book takes the reader on a journey through the decades, starting from the 1910’s. It uncovers Long Clawson Dairy’s history piece by piece in each chapter whilst also offering a deliciousselection of cheesy recipes of each decade.

www.twitter.com/clawsondairyltd

Long Clawson Dairy Ltd., Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 4PJ Tel: 01664 822332

www.clawson.co.uk

www.facebook.com/clawsondairy

Available to order now fromwww.amazon.co.uk and in stock at

The Melton Cheeseboard8 Windsor Street, Melton Mowbray Tel: 01664 562257

‘Where potions stir emotions’

5 Churchgate Mews, Loughborough, LE11 1TZ

Truffl e making parties/hen parties £20 per person

T: 01509 238113E: [email protected]: www.chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

Chocolate making workshops

for 2 people £70

Home to Jimmy’s Smokehouse. Smokers and

Curers of Meat and Fish

A 17th Century

Country Inn set in the

idyllic village of wing in rutland.

The King’s Arms Top Street, Wing, Rutland LE15 8SE

Tel. 01572 737634email: [email protected]

Come and Taste the Difference

WINNERS OF EAST MIDLANDS TOURISM 2010SILVER TASTE AWARDS AND 2 AA ROSETTES

Bored of reading the same old

menu’s?! en come andtry something truly unique.

Home ofRutland’s Culinary ArtisanHeart.



FOODIE PRODUCTS

The Foodie Gift Hunter’s Summer tips

Between a busy schedule of cooking, eating and drinking, Helen Tarver – the famous Foodie Gift Hunter – tweets about great gifts for food lovers at @presentsqueen and blogs at thefoodie gifthunter.co.uk

KnickerbockerGlories

We might be a longish drive from the coast, but you can still head

out for traditional seaside ice cream treats here in

the Midlands. At Brucciani in Leicester,

you can tuck into great traditional delights like

Knickerbocker Glories and Chocolate Fudge Sundaes, all

without the risk of getting sand between your toes.

Contact: brucciani.co.uk

Kulfi ice creamCool down with frozen Indian dessert Kulfi. Denser and creamier than ice cream, it comes in a range of exotic flavours such as pistachio and mango. This pud’s roots are in the lavish lifestyles of the Mughal emperors of the 15th century. Still tasting great today! Contact: everest-ices.co.uk

PRICES FROM: £4.50

PRICES FROM: £3.00

love this...Beautiful bangers

Got a BBQ fanatic to buy for? Well, offer them some brilliant local sausage and bacon from

Dickinson & Morris, and why not get generous and buy them the 10-pack mix-and-match

special. Be sure to include the Rutland Sausage, which includes Stilton and mustard seeds,

and do consider the Melton Smokey! Contact: porkpie.co.uk

FROM £3.50 PER

PACK

Local cream teaIt wouldn’t be summer without a cream tea in the garden on a sunny afternoon. No need to head off to the other end of the country for supplies though. Knock up some scones, then slather on beautiful Luxury Extra Thick Cream from Lubcloud, which has the same consistency as clotted cream. Then you’ll need some fabulous jam, keeping it local with Jam on the Hill’s raspberry or strawberry, even gooseberry and elderflower if you want something different. Contact: jamonthehill.co.uk and lubclouddairy.co.uk

Teenage cookery classesIf the school holidays are stretching ahead of you and your offspring, then put off the cries of “I’m bored!” by booking them onto a cookery day with one of our local cookery schools. Bridge 67 of Smeeton Westerby near Market Harborough offer classes for teenagers, even a course especially for those going off to uni. Could be money well spent if they cook dinner every night over the holidays. Contact: bridge67cookeryschool.co.uk

FROM £125 FOR THE DAY

Thoughts turn to summer barbecues, ice cream, high teas, and how to keep the kids entertained

PRICES FROM:£2.50

FIND THE BEST PLACES TO EAT –

P51

haycock.indd 2haycock.indd 2 20/6/11 11:46:1420/6/11 11:46:14

Rookery Lane, Stretton, Rutland, LE15 7RA01780 410 237

www.thejacksonstops.com

The Jackson StopsRobert Reid @

Robert Reid, along with Dave and Laura, welcome you to the Jackson Stops Country Inn.

Our experienced team welcome old and new friends to enjoy our fine food with a warm and

friendly atmosphere.

THE J

ACKSON STOPS

COUNTRY INN


Derby

Loughboro’Melton

GranthamNottingham

P’boro

Kettering

Corby

Northampton

Rugby

Nuneaton

Coventry

Mkt Harboro’

Ashby

Leicester

OakhamM1

A42

M69

M6

A6

A6

A1

A47

A46

A14

CHRISTOPHER JAMES DELI

Leicester

P65

KILWORTH HOUSE

North Kilworth

P71

JACKSON STOPS Stretton

P61

EAT & DRINKYour guide to some of the region’s tastiest places

Wh!" toPEACOCK INN

Redmile

P54

PADDY’S MARTEN DHABA98 Martin St, Leicester

Before Great Food visited Paddy’s we were told that

despite the unprepossessing location, there would be smart cars parked up half way back to Catherine Street. The reason being that successful Indian entrepreneurs love to come here for the home-style food and informal environment. You can understand why: Paddy’s offers cracking food and superb value with no pretension. There’s a wide-ranging menu of dishes from all over India, and it’s not trading on exoticism or authenticity, just tasty grub. Poppadoms come with terrific, lively chutneys while a starter of jeera chicken was just that – on-the-bone pieces of chicken in a cumin-heavy spice mix. Mains are

PRICE PER HEAD: £15-£18 (for two courses and drinks)CUSTOMER PARKING: On streetTIMES: Sun-Tue: 5.30pm-10.30pm; Wed-Thu: 5.30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat: 5.30pm-11.30pm

greatfood SCORESFood .................Service .............Environment . Overall ............

big and hearty but showed some delicacy in spicing and cooking – lamb chop curry featured four chops in a really tangy sauce. There are no plates here – just big metal trays – and with a cheerful, efficient team

supervised by Paddy it adds up to a very pleasant experience. On a Tuesday it was buzzing and booking is essential. That’s even before the restaurant features in a Jamie Oliver TV show this coming autumn. TB

No-frills dining at curry pub, Paddy‘s Marten Dhaba

EATING OUT

Leicester is one of Britain’s curry capitals. But which restaurant is best? To find out, last issue we focused on high-profile city

centre venues, with Chutney Ivy winning. This time we’re reviewing venues situated in less obvious locations that have been recommended by curry fans. Next issue we’ll try to reach a conclusion.

SCORING CRITERIA:Food ............................Service .......................Environment ............Overall ......................

ultimate curry pt 2The Our search for Leicester’s best Indian restaurant continues with reviews of some of the city’s less well known venues


ULTIMATECURRYCHALLENGE!ROUND 2 OFF THE BEATEN TRACK CURRY HOUSES


Reviews

FLAMINGO BAR & GRILL 179 Loughborough Rd, LeicesterPRICE PER HEAD: £18-22 (for two courses plus drinks) CUSTOMER PARKING: On streetTIMES: Monday closed. Tues-Sun: 5pm-12am

greatfood SCORESFood .................Service .............Environment .... Overall ..............

BOBBY‘S154 Belgrave Road, LeicesterPRICE PER HEAD: £20-25 (for three dishes and drinks)CUSTOMER PARKING: On streetTIMES: Mon: 11am-9pm; Tues-Fri: 11am-10pm; Sat-Sun: 10am-10pm

Bobby‘s is a 35-year-old Leicester institution and couldn‘t be ignored in any search for the city‘s best Indian restaurant.

Serving purely vegetarian food, it is bustling and bright, dominated by a large counter displaying luminous Indian sweet treats. The downstairs dining area is more café than restaurant, with melamine-topped tables, while upstairs feels more like a restaurant but is still pleasingly relaxed and breezy.

The service was professional throughout our visit, and the atmosphere was friendly, bright and buzzy. A highlight turned out to be moreish chilli paneer, while channa masala (chick peas in a spicy sauce) was irresistible. The peshwari naan was soft and sweet, ideal for mopping up plates. A minor downside was some slightly oily sauces but overall the food and environment at Bobby‘s is best described as addictive. MW

greatfood SCORESFood ....................................Service ................................Environment ..................... Overall ................................

greatfood SCORESFood ....................................Service ................................Environment ..................... Overall ................................

Showaddywaddy first played here!

A Belgrave Road favourite FUN

AMBIENCE, TASTY FOOD

INDIGO432 Melton Rd, LeicesterPRICE PER HEAD: £12-16 (for two courses plus drinks)CUSTOMER PARKING: YesTIMES: Mon-Fri: Noon-2.30pm and 6-11pm; Sat-Sun: Noon-10.30pm

The building formerly known as the Fosseway pub qualifies as a Leicester institution – it’s where Showaddywaddy first got

together. Over the last decade it has become better known as a family-friendly vegetarian Asian restaurant. We found Hunan paneer an inviting sticky mix of cheese cubes with a sauce of honey, chilli and spring onion. Crispy chilli comprised indeterminate veg in a decent batter and a mouth-warming sweet and sour sauce. Hit of the night was ginni dosa, a deliciously crisp, folded dosa stuffed with lightly melted cheese and delicately spiced vegetables. On a midweek night the car park was packed while inside the vibe was good, with large inter-generational family groups getting stuck in to their favoured part of the menu. TB

Although it sounds like a strip joint, the Flamingo Bar, on

the edge of Leicester’s Belgrave district, is in fact a curry pub. The original concept was ‘a pub atmosphere incorporating an Indian restaurant serving top quality Punjabi cuisine.’

With modern decor and a large bar, it differs from the

traditional curry house. And with Bollywood beats blaring from numerous TV screens and a pool table attracting local youngsters, it is not the most relaxing place.

We shared mixed snacks (served in plastic scampi baskets). These included crisp samosas, pea patties and patra (spiced spinach, rolled, steamed, sliced and deep-fried). Jhinga

Dania (king prawn karahi) and Punjabi chicken curry were rich and spicy, the flavours lifted with a sprinkling of fresh coriander.

A Kenyan-style barbecue is available at the weekends (cheap, cheerful and popular) and stone-baked pizzas with Indian toppings also appear on the menu.

If you‘re in Leicester after a hard day’s shopping at Highcross, you could always call in for a pint and a take-away. Fusion or confusion? You decide. RQ

LOCAL RESTAURANTS

Peacock Inn, RedmileCUISINE: Modern British/EuropeanPRICE PER HEAD: £25-£30 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: Yes, in the barCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Car park to rearFOOD TIMES: Noon-2.30pm and 6-9pm seven days a week.

The setting of the Peacock Inn is bucolic perfection, with the spire of Redmile

village church just a few yards away, free-range eggs for sale next door atop an honesty box and, on the summer’s evening of our visit, a feeling of pastoral serenity in the air as the sun set over the Vale of Belvoir.

Inside the large, sprawling pub – built in 1702 – is a comfortable front bar with a couple of real ales on tap. If you’re in this bar after 10pm or on Sunday afternoon, you may well see village dog Diesel the Jack Russell sitting on a bar stool. That’s the sort of pub this is – homely, cosy, friendly and slightly quirky. However, only the front bar is dog-friendly, so if you have a canine aversion you can take a seat in one of the pleasant dining areas.

Having Rocco the terrier with us, we took a table in the bar and were immediately

attended by polite, friendly and efficient waiting staff. The coeliac member of our party was helped by a menu on which gluten-free dishes had been asterisked.

To start I ordered mushrooms with Stilton on toast, which turned out to be enormous. Rather than slivers on thin bread, I was faced with giant flatcap field mushrooms perched on two doorsteps, served in a large bowl. I didn’t flinch but smaller would have been better, although this starter was nicely cooked and tasty – hearty rural fare.

For main I selected the corn-fed chicken breast, dauphinoise potatoes and braised red cabbage. Again, this was hearty and filling,

which led me to the following conclusion: at the Peacock, don’t expect delicately crafted dishes but well-cooked, honest food, and plenty of it. This is perfectly suited to the Peacock’s atmosphere and setting. Sitting at my table, nursing a pint and gazing up at Redmile church spire, with Diesel the Jack Russell sat on a bar stool nearby, I wouldn’t have wanted any other style of cooking.

Matt Wright

THE PEACOCK INN 1 Main Street, Redmile, Leicestershire NG13 0GA, 01949 842554, www.thepeacockinnredmile.co.uk

Boboli, Kibworth HarcourtCUISINE: ItalianPRICE PER HEAD: £25-£35 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: NoCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: PlentyFOOD TIMES: Seven days a week from 10am

So, where would we meet this time for a girls-only Friday evening dinner? We’d

both be driving so needed a restaurant with good parking, but also wanted to kick back, so it had to be somewhere relaxed, where we could chat the hind legs off a donkey and no one would rush us along.

Italian restaurant Boboli in Kibworth Harcourt near Market Harborough proved the perfect choice. It’s bright, modern and airy, and on the night of our visit the well-drilled staff were charming and professional.

It was a warm night, so on arrival we made good use of the spacious outdoor seating area, where we tucked into a pre-meal glass of rosé with some bread and olives while we perused the menu.

To start, you can choose from either the antipasti section or have a starter sized portion from the pasta menu. I opted for my old favourite, Parma ham and melon, and my friend was excited at the option of starting

Menu samplesANTIPASTI

Beef carpaccio with slow roasted tomatoes and gorgonzola £6.25

PASTAPennette, tomato and chilli £7.25

SECONDIVeal escalope pan-fried with Parma ham and sage £14.50

FRESH FISHFillet of sea bream with chickpeas,

prawns and tomatoes £14.50

DOLCIItalian cheese with mustard fruits

and bread £6.50

with pasta and had a starter-sized lasagne della Nonna (“lasagne as head chef Lino Poli’s mother makes it”). Both our starters were plentiful, well presented and tasty.

For main course I went for a traditional bolognaise, which might sound a slightly safe choice but in my experience this can be a dish that is either excellent or – more often than not – disappointing, often due to lazy cooking. Happily, this was one of the best, if not the best spaghetti bolognaise I have eaten. The flavour was intense, the beef succulent and the pasta perfectly cooked. It was enhanced by a simple side order of rocket and parmesan. My friend went for quattro stagioni pizza, which she thoroughly enjoyed but, despite trying her best, could not finish.

She was delighted to be offered the option of having the remainder of her pizza boxed up to take home. Sadly we didn’t have room to share a dessert.

Overall we found Boboli’s atmosphere laid-back but with a contented buzz that gives rise to a sense of occasion. The restaurant was full but we were not on top of our fellow diners. A great choice for a Friday evening. Philippa Maffioli

BOBOLI RESTAURANT 88 Main Street, Kibworth Harcourt, Leicestershire LE8 0NQ, 0116 2793303, www.bobolirestaurant.com


Menu samplesSTARTER

Freshly made soup with homemade bread £4.50 Crayfish salad £5.50

MAINSPan-fried salmon with pea and

mint risotto £12.95

Rib-eye steak, hand-cut chips, shallot rings and béarnaise sauce £17.95

DESSERTTreacle tart with clotted cream £5.95

NB. Two courses for £10 on Monday and Tuesday evenings

To coincide with British Food Fortnight, the 5th Leicester and Leicestershire Food Fortnight is encouraging residents and visitors to taste, tour, enjoy and explore the wealth of locally

produced food and drink on offer within Leicester and Leicestershire.

Across the city and county, a diverse range of business and organisations are hosting events including festivals, free tasting sessions, cookery courses and dining experiences. The fortnight culminates in the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival 2011 at

the Melton Mowbray Cattle Market on 1st and 2nd October.

For more information about events in your area please go to www.oakleaves.org.uk/foodfortnight

or call Matthew Kempson on 0116 305 6179

17 September �– 2 October 2011

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www.northfi eldfarm.com 01664 474271email: marc@northfi eldfarm.com

2011 – Multiple Gold & Silver Awards for Pies and Sausages – Newark & Notts ShowIn 2010 we have received many accolades includingFarmer’s Weekly Local Food Farmer National Finalist

Top 10 Farm Shops – The TimesBest British Apple Pie – British Pie Awards

Gold Great Taste Award – Rutland Panther BaconBest Pork Sausages - Melton Christmas Fat Stock Show

Rare and Traditional British Beef, Pork, Lamb, Poultry and Game from our award-winning Butchery

Melton Mowbray Pork Pies, Award Winning Apple Pies plus Artisan Breads, Brownies and Pastries

from our Bakery Fresh Local Vegetables, Cheeses and much more

from our Shop Outstanding meals, snacks, Sunday Lunchesand afternoon teas at our NEW Restaurant,

open Tuesday – Sunday 10am -5pm,Thursday – Saturday 7pm – late for evening meals.

Fabulous Amphora Wine Workshop on site

OPEN 7 DAYS

2011 Events CalendarA Ta!e of European Classics - Friday "#th July!"" per personIncludes a six course dinner, all sele!ed wines and co"ee.A Ta!e of France Gourmet Evening - Friday "$th Augu!!"" per personIncludes a six course dinner, all sele!ed wines and co"ee.A Ta!e of the Ea! Midlands Evening - Friday %&th September!"" per personIncludes a six course dinner, all sele!ed wines and co"ee.A Ta!e of the Countryside - Friday "'th November!"" per personIncludes a six course dinner, all sele!ed wines and co"ee.

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To make a reservation or for further information, conta! us on &(')" )*)&&& or visit www.!aplefordpark.com

The Joiners is a delightful gastropub

serving simple, perfectly cooked food.

Michelin Eating Out In Pubs Guide 2011 - Inspectors favourites

BruntingthorpeSouth Leicestershire

Welcoming, Charming, Special

For further detailsplease call 0116 247 8258

or see our websitewww.thejoinersarms.co.uk


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Get exclusive deals and offers at the very best local restaurants, farm shops, delis and

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All subscribers will receive automatic free membership

Get exclusive offers at the region’s best restaurants

Derby

Loughboro’

Nottingham

Rugby

Leamington Spa

Nuneaton

Coventry

Ashby

Tamworth LeicesterM1

A42

M69

M6

A6A46

Staffs Leics

Warkwicks

DerbysNotts

1 Anoki Derby DE1 2QN

www.anoki.co.uk01332 292888

2 AssietteStamford PE9 2BE

www.assietterestaurant.co.uk01780 489071

3 Baker’s ArmsThorpe Langton LE16 7TS

www.thebakersarms.co.uk01858 545201

4 Barnsdale LodgeOakham LE15 8AH

www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk01572 724678

5 The Bay TreeMelbourne DE73 8HW

www.baytreerestaurant.com01332 863 358

6 The Belmont HotelLeicester LE1 7GR

www.belmonthotel.co.uk0116 2544773

7 The Berkeley ArmsWymondham LE14 2AG

www.theberkeleyarms.co.uk01572 787587

8 BoboliKibworth Harcourt LE8 0NQ

www.bobolirestaurant.co.uk 0116 2793303

9 The Boot RoomLeicester LE1 5JN

thebootroomeaterie.co.uk0116 2622555

10 Brownlow ArmsHough on the Hill

NG32 2AZ thebrownlowarms.com01400 250234

11 Chequers InnWoolsthorpe by Belvoir

NG32 1LU, www.chequersinn.net01476 870701

12 Chutney IvyLeicester LE1 1TR

www.chutneyivy.com0116 2511889

13 Crossed Khukris GurkhaNuneaton CV11 5BX

www.omsrestaurant.com024 76344488

14 The Crown InnSproxton LE14 4QB

www.thecrownatsproxton.co.uk01476 860035

15 DarleysDarley Abbey DE22 1DZ

darleys.com, 01332 364987

16 EntropyLeicester LE3 0RB

www.entropylife.com0116 2259650

17 The FalconFotheringhay PE8 5HZ

www.thefalcon-inn.co.uk01832 226254

18 FirenzeKibworth LE8 0LN

firenze.co.uk, 0116 2796260

19 Hambleton HallHambleton LE15 8TH

www.hambletonhall.com01572 756991

20 The Hammer & PincersWymeswold LE12 6ST

www.hammerandpincers.co.uk01509 880735

21 Harry’s PlaceGreat Gonerby NG31 8JS

01476 561780

22 Hart’sNottingham NG1 6GN

www.hartsnottingham.co.uk0115 9881900

23 Hotel MaiyangoLeicester LE1 4LD

www.maiyango.com0116 2518898

24 IbericoNottingham NG1 1HN

www.ibericotapas.com0115 941 0410

25 Jackson StopsStretton LE15 7RA

www.thejacksonstops.com 01780 410237

You’ll never be stuck for where to dine out again. This map contains some of the region’s best pubs and restaurants“Where shall we eat out this weekend?” is a question that can cause serious chin stroking and, after a hard day, the need for a sit down. This map is designed to cut that out by providing a useful list of some highly regarded local eateries. This is not a random selection – they have been chosen by listening to reader recommendations and, of course, by visiting as many as possible ourselves.

To tell us about a great restaurant that should be included, email [email protected] or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

U!ima" l#a$ re%aurant m

Map not to scale and designed as a guide only. Always check opening hours before setting off.

Ke&Featured in this or previous issue of Great Food magazine

1 Michelin Star

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Restaurants

Loughboro’Melton

Grantham

P’boro

Kettering

Corby

Northampton

Mkt Harboro’

Oakham

A6

A1

A47

A14

Notts

Northants

Lincs

26 Jim’s YardStamford PE9 1PL

www.jimsyard.biz01780 756080

27 The Joiner’s ArmsBruntingthorpe LE17 5QH

www.thejoinersarms.co.uk 0116 2478258

28 The King’s ArmsWing LE15 8SE

www.thekingsarms-wing.co.uk 01572 737634

29 Kilworth House HotelNorth Kilworth LE17 6JE

www.kilworthhouse.co.uk01858 880058

30 Lake IsleUppingham LE15 9PZ

www.lakeisle.co.uk01572 822951

31 Langar HallLangar Village NG13 9HG

www.langarhall.com01949 860559

32 LagunaNottingham NG1 6HE

www.lagunatandoori.co.uk0115 9411632

33 Marquess of ExeterLyddington LE15 9LT

www.marquessexeter.co.uk01572 822477

34 Mallory CourtLeamington Spa CV33 9QB

www.mallory.co.uk01926 330214

35 Martin’s ArmsColston Bassett NG12 3FD

www.themartinsarms.co.uk01949 81361

36 Northfield FarmCold Overton LE7 3DB

www.northfieldfarm.com01664 474271

37 Oundle MillOundle PE8 5PB

www.oundlemill.co.uk 01832 272621

38 Olive BranchClipsham LE15 7SH

www.theolivebranchpub.com01780 410355

39 OscarsLeamington Spa CV32 4RL

www.oscarsfrenchbistro.co.uk01926 452807

40 Papa Cino’sNorthampton NN1 2AB

www.papacinos.co.uk01604 601770

41 Petit GourmandKenilworth CV8 1HL

01926 864567www.petit-gourmand.co.uk

a! re"aurant ma#42 The Pheasant

Keyston PE28 0REwww.thepheasant-keyston.co.uk01832 710241

43 The Red LionEast Haddon NN6 8BU

www.redlioneasthaddon.co.uk01604 770223

44 The Red LionStathern LE14 4HS

www.theredlioninn.co.uk01949 860868

45 Restaurant BosquetKenilworth CV8 1HP

www.restaurantbosquet.co.uk01926 852463

46 Restaurant Sat BainsNottingham NG7 2SA

www.restaurantsatbains.com0115 9866566

47 Royal OakEydon NN11 3PG

www.theroyaloakateydon.co.uk01327 263167

48 San CarloLeicester LE1 1DEL

www.sancarlo.co.uk/leicester0116 2519332

49 The Seafood CaféNorthampton NN1 1JF

www.theseafoodcafe.co.uk01604 627989

50 Stapleford ParkStapleford LE14 2EF

www.staplefordpark.com01572 787000

51 TailorsWarwick CV34 4SL

www.tailorsrestaurant.co.uk01926 410 590

52 Three HorseshoesBreedon on the Hill DE73 8AN

01332 695129

53 Tobie NorrisStamford PE9 2BE

www.tobienorris.com, 01780 753800

54 The ViceroyDerby DE1 2SN

www.viceroy.uk.com01332 209991

55 The White HorseBalsall Common CV7 7DT

www.thewhitehorseatbc.co.uk01676 533207

56 The WoodhouseWoodhouse Eaves LE12 8RG

www.thewoodhouse.co.uk01509 890318

57 World ServiceNottingham NG1 6AF

www.worldservicerestaurant.com0115 8475587

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www.burghley.co.uk ! 01780 752451

A celebration of local produceA chance to purchase a variety of seasonal & locallysourced food & drink including cheeses, rare breedmeats, cupcakes & fruit & vegetables grown on the

Burghley Estate.

FREE ADMISSION & PARKING

Saturday 28th - Sunday 29thAugust

10am - 4pm

The Courtyards • Burghley House

Award Winning Pub

12 St Pauls Street, Stamford, PE9 2BE Tel: 01780 [email protected] www.tobienorris.com

A charming building with 7 unique rooms over 3 floors

and a large enclosed patio We have 5 real ales including our own White Hart Ale and an expansive wine list that we import ourselves from around the world. We specialise in stone baked,handmade pizzas, plus a wide range of other dishes.

An extensive,often exclusive,selection offantastically-!avoursome yeta"ordable winesand expert advice - come and see for yourself.

• Free Saturday tastings from 12-3pm• Bespoke wine tastings available• Wines from small producers• Sale or return and glass hire for special events• Local and nationwide delivery

10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LTTel: 01858 464935www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

The award-winning winemerchant on your doorstep


Local pub

SPECIALITIES Rutland dishes, Nurdles!FOOD TIMES: Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6.30-9pm; Sun 12-4pm (closed Monday)

Set back from the road in the Rutland village of Stretton stands the Jackson

Stops. Country pub through and through, this early 18th-century building has seen some real history over the years, not to mention a few ups and downs, standing empty for long periods. If your letters (see p4) and the naked eye are anything to go by, it is now on an upward trajectory under Robert Reid, who until recently ran the Orangery Restaurant at Stamford’s Burghley House.

The interior of the Jackson Stops matches its idyllic exterior, with a traditional,

unpretentious front bar serving local ale from the likes of The Grainstore Brewery and Oakham Ales. This bar area is where you need to be if you ever get the urge to play Nurdles (see right)! Beyond are four dining areas, complete with quarry tiles, wooden

The oldest part of the pub was built in 1721.

A warm welcome from Robert Reid

Laura and Dave Graveling

Great to look at, better to eat


The Jackson Stops, StrettonIdyllic Rutland pub with a few quirks that’s being given a new lease of life

‘‘We want to serve high-quality food and fine ales and create a warm, friendly atmosphere”beams and exposed stone walls. All are great places to eat, unfussily but classily decorated.

The menus are varied, comprising a ‘Bits and Bobs’ section with an eclectic mix of

dishes including Rutland Rarebit, Jackson Stops Fruit Cake,

Mussels, and Rutland Ploughman’s. The lunch menu is also mouthwatering and will set you back £12 for two courses. Examples of the evening menu (two courses for £17) are on the left.

Menu samplesSTARTERS

Ham hock terrine with Grandad Ted’s Piccalilli £5.95

Smoked Rutland trout, truffle and horseradish mayo £5.95

MAINSGrasmere belly of pork, twice

roasted £12.95Salmon fillet on spring veg

risotto (see below) £12.95DESSERT

Strawberry pavlova, pepper and balsamic coulis £5.95

As well as improving the interior, Robert has brought in married couple Dave and Laura Graveling as live-in pub managers. Dave, also the chef, says: “Our aim is to produce high quality food and serve fine ales in a warm, friendly atmosphere.”

So why is it called the Jackson Stops? “In the 1950s the pub was up for sale for years,” says Robert. “All that time an estate agent’s board branded ‘Jackson Stops’ stood outside. Before that it was The White Horse.”

The quirks don’t stop there. In 1996, a fire broke out and firemen entered the roof space to find graffiti left by Second World War airmen who had been stationed a few miles away at the now derelict Woolfox airfield.

The Jackson Stops is a beautiful old pub with tons of character, loving new custodians, great menus and, we are told, fine food. You can also play Nurdles.

NURDLES!

The Jackson Stops is the official home of Nurdles, a gloriously English activity that involves trying to toss old coins into a hole in a seat while drinking beer. In June the pub hosted the Nurdling World Championships.

CONTACTThe Jackson Stops, Rookery Lane, Stretton, Rutland, LE15 7RA 01780 410237, www.thejacksonstops.com

Derby

Loughboro’

Nottingham

Rugby

Leamington Spa

Nuneaton

Coventry

Ashby

Tamworth LeicesterM1

A42

M69

M6

A6

A46


Ke!

Outlets where you can buy Great Food Magazine

Choccy maker

Cheese shop

Baker

Deli

Wine shop

Staffs Leics

Warkwicks

DerbysNotts

1 Amphora WinesCold Overton LE15 7QF

www.amphora-wines.co.uk

2 Amp’s Fine WineOundle PE8 4BQ

www.ampsfinewines.co.uk

3 Anderson’sBreaston DE72 3DW

www.andersonsfinefood.co.uk

4 Barrowby CakeholeBarrowby NG32 1BZ

www.barrowbycakehole.co.uk

5 Ben’s Wine ShopOakham LE15 6QS

www.benswineshop.co.uk

6 Brown & GreenDerby Garden Centre DE21 5DB

www.brown-and-green.co.uk

7 BuntingsThrapston NN14 4JH

www.buntingsfinefoods.co.uk

8 Deli ItaliaMelton Mowbray LE13 0PN

01664 561777

9 Cana at Bank ChambersHarbury CV33 9HW

www.canaimport.co.uk

10 Carluccio’s Leicester LE1 4SA

www.carluccios.com

11 Carluccio’s Nottingham NG1 7DL

www.carluccios.com

12 The Cheese ShopNottingham NG1 2HN

cheeseshop-nottingham.co.uk

13 Chocolate AlchemyLoughborough LE111TZ

www.chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

14 Christopher James DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

15 Colston Bassett StoreColston Bassett NG12 3FE

www.colstonbassettstore.com

16 Country Bumpkins DeliLeamington Spa CV32 5JR

countrybumpkinsdeli.co.uk

17 The DeliKibworth Beauchamp

LE8 0HS 0116 2790077

18 Deli 53Ashby de la Zouch

LE65 1AG 01530 415706

19 Deli FlavourLeicester LE2 2DA

www.deliflavour.net

20 Dickinson & MorrisMelton Mowbray LE13 1NW

www.porkpie.co.uk

21 Duncan Murray WinesMarket Harborough LE16 7LT

duncanmurraywines.co.uk

22 Evington’s WinesLeicester LE2 1HH

www.evingtons-wines.co.uk

23 The Fine Food StoreStamford PE9 2DF

www.thefinefoodstore.com

24 The Garage DeliUppingham LE15 9UD

01572 823247

25 The Garden BarnCotesbach LE17 4HS

www.gardenbarn.co.uk

You never know what delights you’ll find in these Aladdin’s caves of food. Stick your pin in the map and explore Stumbling across a unique little deli or wine shop and discovering a previously unknown cheese, coffee or wine variety is always fun. On this map we’ve tried to list some of the best foodie enclaves in the region for you to check out. We haven’t had time to visit them all – yet – so please give feedback on the selection.

And as always, to tell us about a great deli, cheese shop, wine outlet or bakery that you feel should be included on the map, email [email protected] or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

Deli, ch"# & wi$ sh%12

5544

5827

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5130

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25

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Delis and more

Melton

Grantham

P’boro

Kettering

Corby

Northampton

Mkt Harboro’

Oakham

A6

A1

A47

A14

Notts

Northants

Lincs

26 Garden Deli & Coffee ShopCostock LE12 6XB

www.sixacres.co.uk

27 Gauntleys Fine WineNottingham NG1 2ET

www.gauntleys.com

28 WH Gayton & SonsGrendon CV9 2BS

www.whgayton.co.uk

29 Gourmet DelisOundle PE8 4EF

www.gourmetdelis.co.uk

30 Green Jam DeliLeicester LE2 0QS

www.greenjamdeli.com

31 Hallam’sGrantham NG31 6LH

01476 591911

32 Hambleton BakeryExton LE15 8AN

www.hambletonbakery.co.uk

33 Hambleton Bakery Oakham LE15 6AL


34 Hambleton Bakery Oundle PE8 4AU


35 Hambleton Bakery Stamford PE9 1PL


36 Kandy CupcakesWoodhouse Eaves LE12 8SS

www.kandycupcakes.co.uk

37 Kendall’s of EarlsdonCoventry CV5 6EJ

www.kendallsofearlsdon.com

38 Kibworth WinesKibworth Beauchamp LE8 0HQ

www.kibworthwines.co.uk

39 LandinsKimbolton PE28 0HB

www.landins.co.uk

40 Local Not Global DeliNottingham NG9 1EN

0115 9257700

41 Limehaus Deli Orston NG13 9NG

01949 859524

42 Lucy’s FoodLeicester LE2 2BD

www.lucysfood.co.uk

& wi! sh" ma#43 The Melton Cheeseboard

Melton Mowbray LE13 1BUwww.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

44 No 8 DeliNottingham NG2 5LN

www.no8deli.co.uk

45 North’sRothley LE7 7LD

www.dominic-davidnorth.co.uk

46 Old Theatre DeliSouthwell NG25 0HE

www.theoldtheatredeli.co.uk

47 The Malt House DeliBottesford NG13 0AH

01949 843699

48 The Pickled VillageBulwick NN17 3DY

www.thepickledvillage.co.uk

49 Relish DeliTamworth B79 7DF

www.relishdeli.co.uk

50 Rutland & Derby Deli (within pub)

Leicester LE1 5JNwww.everards.co.uk

51 Salvador DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

www.thesalvadordeli.co.uk

52 Simply Simon’sMarket Harborough LE16 7LT

www.simplysimons.co.uk

53 Squisito DeliMonks Kirby

www.squisito-deli.co.uk

54 Stamford Cheese CellarStamford PE9 2DG

01780 489269

55 The Tall Frog DeliNottingham NG2 6ET

www.thetallfrog.co.uk

56 Three Horseshoes Deli (within pub)

Breedon-on-the-Hill DE73 8AN01332 695129

57 The Waltham DeliWaltham on the Wolds LE14 4AH

www.walthamdeli.co.uk

58 Weavers WinesNottingham NG1 7AQ

www.weaverswines.com

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A FEW SNIPPETS FROM OUR REVIEWS

Giles Coren from the Times said “in my top ten restaurants”

8.5/10

Becky Jones from the Leicester Mercury said “culinary perfection”

Tim Burke of the metro said “currently among the best places

to eat the East Midlands”

Hardens restaurant guide said “Innovative way with local ingredients” 1 star out of a

maximum 2 with a special note on the ambience

Closed Monday. Open Tuesday – Saturday 12-2 & 6-10, Sunday 12-4

mm

Contact us... 01509 880 735,

email [email protected]

www.hammerandpincers.co.uk

WYMESWOLD LE12 6STWYWYWYWYWYMEEMEM SWSWSWSWWWOLOLOLLLLLLLLLLD D D LELELELE1212121222 6 6 666STSTSTSSTS

We now serve 28 day dry-aged Hereford

beef, locally reared, at Clipston-on-the-wolds

by the Rupert at Blackberry Farm,

four different jointscut to order & cookedto perfection by our award winning chefs

A heritage brand with modern quality and taste.Delicious Melton Mowbray Pork Pies brought to you

through the revival of a well known Nottinghamshire brandfrom the 1930s & 40s.

For more information on the history and current stockists go to:

www.scrimshawsporkpies.com‘Follow us’ on Twitter: @scrimshaws

‘Like us’ on Facebook: Scrimshaw’s Pork Pies

J.W.G. Dalby & SonsCestersover Farm, Pailton, Rugby

Ice Cream available in 110ml, ! Litre, 1 Litre, 2 Litre & 4 Litre Containers with a variety of 17 different fl avours including Pistachio,

Apple Crumble, Ginger & Honey!

Available for Shows & Fetes

01788 832188


Deli profile

SPECIALITIES Cheeses, continental breads, preserves, pasta OPENING TIMES: Monday to Saturday, 8.30am-5.30pm

Christopher James in Leicester’s Clarendon Park area is many

people’s idea of the perfect deli. It’s small, cramped even, but filled to the gunnels with all sorts of wonderful produce.

Proprietor Chris Hawkins acknowledges that the Aladdin’s Cave aspect is part of the shop’s allure. “People ask me why I don’t get a bigger shop, but you just can’t buy an atmosphere like we’ve got here.”

Chris bought the business in 1993 when it had been established for 11 years. Initially his wife ran it, but Chris took over when he realised he enjoyed shop life more than he did engineering. “The team and I love it when customers are happy.”

CHRISTOPHER JAMES60B, Queens Road, Leicester LE2 1TU, 0116 2700996www.christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

Small but perfectly formed and you never know what you’ll find

From Hereford Hop to Victor Renault Best Brie


Christopher James Deli, LeicesterA fine continental selection and passion for customer service make this a favourite

‘‘People ask me why I don’t get a bigger shop but you can’t buy an atmosphere like we’ve got”Cheese is the key element of the mix –

Stilton and Red Leicester are ever-popular but it’s the contintentals that are probably the best sellers among some 200 options. Selling cheese can be tricky, and Christopher James addresses the challenges by understanding both products and customers. “You could draw a graph of how a cheese matures and you want to sell it when it’s at its best,” explains Chris. “That said, some people like it a bit young, and others really ripe, so you’ve got to know your customers.”

Alongside the cheeses are a wide range of cured meats – salamis from Hungary, Germany, Italy and Denmark, and, reflecting Clarendon Park’s Polish community, meats such as boczek, kabanos and weijska. Around the shop you also find a fine selection of pastas, chutneys and jams. Another feature is continental breads – Ukrainian rye bread is very popular. “People plan their lives around our deliveries,” smiles Chris. TB

POINT OF DIFFERENCE

Proprietor Chris Hawkins feels delis still offer something supermarkets can’t: “It’s all about high-quality produce, having good product knowledge and giving time to your customers,” he says.

Staff Rob Campbell-Logan and Duchésney Moitt

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Delicatessen

FARM SHOPS

1 Ashley Farm Shop Ashley LE16 8HG

www.ashleyherbfarm.co.uk

2 Attfields Farm ShopWhetstone LE8 6LD

www.attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

3 Berry’s Farm ShopBurton-le-Coggles NG33 4JP

www.theeastonestate.co.uk

4 Bouverie Lodge Nether Broughton LE14

3EX www.bisons.org

5 Brockleby’s Farm ShopAsfordby Hill LE14 3QU

www.brocklebys.co.uk

6 The Cattows Farm ShopHeather LE67 2RF

www.thecattowsfarmshop.co.uk

7 Chantry Farm ShopMelbourne DE73 8DD

www.chantryfarm.com

8 Croots Farm ShopDuffield DE56 4AQ

www.croots.co.uk

9 Crossroads Farm Shop Eastwell LE14 4EF

http://tinyurl.com/5rodb4a

10 Dovecote Farm ShopNewton NN14 1BW

www.dovecotefarm.co.uk

11 Farndon Fields Farm ShopMarket Harboro’ LE16 9NP

farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

12 Gonalston Farm ShopGonalston NG14 7DR

gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

13 Harker’s Farm ShopClipston NG12 5PB

www.harkersfarmshop.co.uk

14 Malt Kiln Farm ShopStretton-Under-Fosse CV23

0PE, maltkilnfarmshop.co.uk

15 Manor Farm ShopCatthorpe LE17 6DB

www.manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk

16 Manor Organic Farm ShopLong Whatton LE12 5DF

www.manororganicfarm.co.uk

17 Meadow View FarmSileby LE12 7RT

www.meadowviewfarm.co.uk

18 Northfield Farm Shop, Gastro Tea Room

and RestaurantCold Overton LE15 7QFwww.northfieldfarm.com

19 Oakdale Farm ShopRearsby LE7 4YS

01664 424300

Some of the region’s best farm shops and butchers. The map will be updated every issue according to your feedbackThe aim of this map is to show you some of the best independent places to buy high quality food, much of which has been produced locally.

We can’t include every farm shop and butcher’s in the region, so we’re featuring outlets that you have recommended, or ones we’ve visited and like.

If you think we’ve missed off a shop that should be included, please let us know. We’d love to hear from you and together we can improve the map. Email [email protected] or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

F!" sh# & butch$ m


Ke%Outlets where you can buy Great Food Magazine

Butchers

Farm shops


Derby

Loughboro’

Nottingham

Rugby

Nuneaton

Coventry

Mkt Harboro’

Ashby

Tamworth Leicester

1610

20

17

1

21

6

2

4

9

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31

626

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13

823

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14

M1

A42

M69

M6

A6

A6

A46

Staffs Leics

Warkwicks

DerbysNotts

28

20 MILES TO WELBECK FARM SHOP

20 Picks Organic Farm ShopBarkby Thorpe LE7 3QF

www.picksorganic.co.uk

21 Roots at Thorpe FarmBarkby Thorpe LE7 3QE

www.rootsthorpefarm.co.uk

22 Saxon Fields Farm ShopClifton-U-Dunsmore CV23

0BB, www.saxonfields.co.uk

23 Spring Lane Farm ShopMapperley NG3 5RQ

www.springlanefarmshop.co.uk

24 Smiths Farm ShopChapel Brampton NN6 8AA

www.smithsfarmshop.co.uk

25 Stamford Farm Shop, Kitchen & Garden Centre

Stamford PE9 4BBstamfordgardencentre.co.uk

26 Stonehurst Farm ShopMountsorrel LE12 7AR

www.stonehurstfarm.co.uk

27 Waterloo Cottage FarmGreat Oxendon LE16 8NA

www.waterloocottagefarm.co.uk

28 Welbeck Farm ShopWorksop S80 3LW

thewelbeckfarmshop.co.uk

29 Wing Hall Farm ShopWing LE15 8RY

www.winghall.co.uk

30 Wistow Farm ShopWistow LE8 0QF

www.wistow.com/rural.asp

31 Woodhouse Farm ShopElmesthorpe LE9 7SE

www.woodhousefarm.co.uk

BUTCHERS

1 W Archer & Son99 Queens Road, Leicester

LE2 1TT, 0116 2707876

2 F Bailey & Son Station Rd, Upper

Broughton LE14 3BQ, 01664 822216

3 Bates Butchers4 Church Sq,

Market Harboro’ LE16 7NB, 01858 462400

4 JT Beedham & Sons Sherwood, Nottingham

www.jtbeedham.co.uk

! & butch" ma#5 Chellaston Butchers

11 Derby Road, Chellaston DE73 5SA, 01332 701131

6 Clarke’s of QueniboroughQueniborough LE7 3DB

www.clarkesqueniborough.co.uk

7 David Cox ButchersStathern LE14 4HW

www.butchercox.co.uk

8 Derek Jones Butchers51 King St, Melton Mowbray

LE13 1XB, 01664 565328

9 GW DundasBreaston DE72 3DX

www.gwdundas.co.uk

10 Jason’s Organic ButcherCotesbach LE17 4HX

jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

11 Grasmere Farm ButchersMarket Deeping PE6 8DL

www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

12 Grasmere Farm ButchersStamford PE9 2LJ

www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

13 Hambletons Fine FoodsOakham LE15 8AQ

www.hambletonfarms.co.uk

14 Clive Lancaster ButchersBingham NG13 8BD

www.clivelancasterbutchers.co.uk

15 Leeson Family Butchers31 High St, Oakham LE15 6AH

01572 770244

16 Joseph Morris ButchersSouth Kilworth LE17 6EG

www.joseph-morris.co.uk

17 Joseph Morris ButchersWigston LE18 3SE

www.joseph-morris.co.uk

18 NelsonsStamford PE9 1PB

www.nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

19 NelsonsUppingham LE15 6AL

www.nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

20 Frank Parker ButchersNuneaton CV11 5DT

www.frankparkerbutchers.co.uk

21 Mark PatrickBirstall LE4 4NB

www.markpatrickbutchers.co.uk

22 Trendall’sOundle PE8 4BQ

www.trendalls.com


Farm shops & butchers

Melton

Grantham

P’boro

Kettering

Corby

Northampton

Mkt Harboro’

Oakham

24

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7

14

13

15

19

12

111818

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A14

Northants

Lincs

FARM SHOP


“On the farm we grow over 40 types of vegetable and six varieties of potato,” says owner Milly Stokes. Homegrown produce on sale includes raspberries, leeks and asparagus. “We’ve had a great crop of strawberries this year, too.”

Picture your perfect food-shopping experience. In your mind’s eye there are probably spacious aisles loaded with

fresh fruit and veg grown in fields just yards away. There might also be a butchery section offering locally reared meat next to a fridge packed with local cheeses. Round the corner, the bakery area contains breads made from locally milled flours; the freezers are full of award-winning ready meals and the booze shelves are stacked with wines and beers from local vineyards and breweries. There are plenty of staff on hand to help and the shop is open 8am to 6pm Monday to Saturday and 10am-4pm Sunday. I could go on but you’ve probably got the picture.

Farndon Fields Farm Shop near Market Harborough on the Leicestershire/Northants border is all of the above and more, combining genuine farm shop (the fruit and veg is grown on the farm) with cafe and garden centre.

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Farm shop

A closer look at one of the region’s finest farm shops. By Emily Coates

28 years of experienceIt all started back in 1983 when owners Kevin and Milly Stokes opened a small shop in the garage of their 250-acre farm. By 1998 they had added a purpose-built farm shop extension, added a dairy section, and made room for a locally stocked bakery. Five years

later a butchery, cafe and plant centre had been introduced.

Next on the agenda is a Mediterranean-inspired deli, which will be opening soon. “We’ve recently bought nine pigs and are feeding them our waste vegetables so we also hope to begin selling our own pork,” says Milly.

Keeping it localSo what’s the secret of Farndon Field’s success? Well, the fact that it’s a genuine farm shop helps, but it is retail know-how in the form of clever shop layout and good product selection that really makes it special. “We aim to give people a really personal shopping experience,” says Milly. In an age of plastic shopping malls, they certainly succeed in that.

CONTACTFarndon Fields, Farndon Road, Mkt Harboro, Leics LE16 9NP farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

‘‘The farm shop opened 28 years ago and has grown ever since. We now grow over 40 types of vegetable”

Much of the veg on sale is grown on the 250-acre farm

Kevin and Milly Stokes have created one of the UK’s best farm shops. “Farming is my passion and we’re proud to sell what we grow,” says Kevin.

SELLING WHAT THEY GROW

Farndon FieldsMarket Harborough

Farm shops

The farm shop opened 28 years ago and has grown ever since. We now grow over 40 types of vegetable”

Farndon Fields has three tills, wide aisles suitable for trolleys and uses plenty of rustic-looking wood within the shop’s layout

Cafe serves a full range of coffees and offers an extensive breakfast and lunch menu


AN EXCITING LEICESTER RESTAURANTThe Boot Room is one of only a few independently owned restaurants in Leicester, situated at 27-29 Millstone Lane – a stones throw away from Highcross Leicester and the Town Hall Square.

Whether you are just popping into the restaurant for a coffee, a light snack or taking advantage of our great value fi xed price menu, you can be assured of a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere by Ian and the restaurant team.

Our philosophy “Buy quality ingredients, treat them well and let your customer enjoy the experience” has enabled The Boot Room to become one of the best restaurants in Leicester city centre.

THE BOOT ROOM EATERIE27-29 Millstone Lane, Leicester. LE1 5JN

0116 262 2555

Bouverie Lodge Bison Farm is a working farm situated approx. 5 miles North West of Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire on the outskirts of the village of Nether Broughton. Why not visit our Farm Shop where you can purchase delicious Bison and Venison meat. From Bison steaks and burgers to Vension joints our meat is butchered and vacuum packed on-site.

01664 822114 - www.bisons.org

Bouverie Lodge Bison Farm is a working farm situated approx. 5 miles North West of Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire on the outskirts of the village of Nether Broughton. Why not visit our Farm Shop where you can purchase delicious Bison and Venison meat. From Bison steaks and burgers to Vension joints our meat is butchered and vacuum packed on-site.

01664 822114 - www.bisons.org

greatfoodCelebrating local food & drink

I S S U E # 7 £ 3 . 2 0

HANDMADE IN THE

HEART OF ENGLAND

£3

.20

ISS

UE

#7

NEW HOME AND KITCHEN SECTION

Because great food and good living go hand in hand

Chef Brian Baker’s

astonishing career

FROM RUTLAND TO SIR ELTON

d

PACKED WITH RECIPESFrom picnic pasties

to Moroccan lamb

FIND HIDDEN GEMS 20-page ‘Where

To Eat’ section

NEW HOME AND KITA!o i"i#...

GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Leicester’s undiscovered

curry houses reviewed

Three-pub walkSUPERB RURAL RAMBLE

Ice cream, picnics and pies!Summer fun

NEW CHEESES ON THE BLOCK

Introducing Battlefield

Blue and Bosworth Field

50 of the best local eateries REALLY USEFUL RESTAURANT MAP

PLUSAntiques for dining areas

The Foodie Gift Hunter’s guide

Home baking with Julie Duff

This issue’s dream home

P80

Make bunting for your

summer garden party

P82

Nose around Rachel

Green’s new kitchen

P76

Get inspiration & tips

for growing your own

TO ADVERTISE HERECALL

JULIE ON01780 754900

ext 213

TO ADVERTTISE


This way to more luxury

A room made for falling asleep in after dinner

Profile

On the rare occasions I’m lucky enough to be planning a weekend away, it’s always

the same dilemma – relaxing country house hotel or stimulating theatre break? At four-star Kilworth House Hotel near Lutterworth, guests get the best of both worlds. The hotel has a clever blend of ingredients – Victorian grandeur and contemporary luxury set in 38 acres of landscaped Leicestershire parkland, complete with first class restaurants and its own theatre.

The Grade II-listed Italianate country house was built towards the end of the 19th century for wool magnate John Entwisle, High Sheriff of Leicestershire. The house later passed to the Snowdon family until it was acquired by the present owners in 1999. Then began a painstaking project of restoration and stylish refurbishment, in partnership with English Heritage. A highlight is the restored Victorian orangery, featuring stained glass windows and an original black and white mosaic floor.

Now a popular venue for leisure, business and weddings, Kilworth House boasts impressive facilities – beauty treatment rooms, mini-gym, a fishing lake and a separate theatre in the grounds, attracting top shows and performers. The Daily Telegraph describes this as ‘a total delight...perhaps the best kept secret in British Theatre’. Forthcoming shows include the lively musical The Little Shop of Horrors and

CONTACTKilworth House Hotel Lutterworth Road, North Kilworth, Leicestershire LE17 6JE 01858 880058, www.kilworthhouse.co.uk


Kilworth House Hotel, North KilworthHistory, good food, theatre and luxury make Kilworth a treat. By Rachel Quine

patriotic Last Night of the Proms concerts. Pre-theatre dinner can be enjoyed in the hotel, or you can bring a picnic.

Fine dining is offered in the Wordsworth Restaurant, where chef Carl Dovey “revels in big flavours and imaginative combinations”. Choices include a neat twist on the classic surf and turf – Confit Oxtail with Seared Scallop. Meat and game are sourced locally from independent butchers and feature in main dishes such as Poached Venison Loin with Truffle pômme purée. Puddings include Cappuccino Brûlée with vanilla foam (a la carte menu, £40 for three courses).

TEA AT KILWORTH

Afternoon tea is making a comeback. To enjoy it at its best, Kilworth House suggests tea should be taken in authentic Victorian surroundings such as theirs. They offer a range of sandwiches, scones, cakes, and pastries, plus ten varieties of tea, served every day, 4pm-6pm (£15.95). You may even get to sample sweet creations from one of the hotel’s three award-winners who recently scooped prizes for their creative patisserie at the prestigious Salon Culinaire awards.

‘‘The restored Victorian orangery offers a modern brasserie menu, with sharing dishes like Meze Platter”

The restored Orangery

Set in 38 acres of landscaped grounds

The Orangery offers a modern brasserie menu, with sharing dishes such as a Meze Platter (£11.95). Or how about Asian Noodle Salad (£6.50) followed by Pork Schnitzel with parsley potatoes, Stilton sauce and caramelised apple (£14.95) and, for dessert, Chocolate & Olive Oil Truffle with caramelised bananas & ice-cream (£6.50)?

NEXT ISSUEThe rise of real bread

Issue 8 goes on sale Thursday, September 8Keep up to date with news at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and chat with us daily on Twitter – @greatfoodmag

PLUSFOODIE MAPSLOCAL RESTAURANT REVIEWSLEICESTER’S BEST CURRYHOUSE REVEALED

* Why traditionally made bread is fighting back

* Meet the local millers and bakers making it happen

* Must-have delicious bread recipes to try

Have the next six issues

delivered – subscribe for £15 – see p23

From great places to eat to fantastic farm shops to cracking caterers, you’ll fi nd an excellent selection of local foodie services here. To advertise in this section, please contact Andrea Marshall on 01780 754900 Ext 218 or by email [email protected]

ANTIQUES

OLD BAKERY ANTIQUESKitchen curios from old scales to

pottery and much more.

An Aladdin’s Cave selling fascinating old items since 1990

on Main Street, Wymondham LE14 2AG.

Tel. 01572 787472

CAKES

BUTCHERS

JASON’S ORGANIC BUTCHERSCotesbach Hall, Leicestershire

Offering a good old fashioned, friendly service. Organic meat at its best; simple, natural, locally reared and butchered onsite. Working with nature to provide

you with great tasting meat

Tel. 07754 697577www.jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

HOG ROAST

Venison, wild boar, spit roasts, BBQs and so much more. Full catering services including

marquee for no extra charge.Based in Rutland.

We use the fi nest meats available.

Tel. 01572 737581www.thehogroastservice.co.uk

The Pantry

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BAKE IT!Boozy cake recipe to make your kitchen smell sublime, p79

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HOME&KITCHEN

Where food and drink meets lifestyle

!" and #$ i"th% g&'"


A local property with a kitchen and garden that will get food lovers salivating

DREAM HOME FOR SALE

Traditional wood-beamed dining room is great for family occasions

S ituated near the village church and pub in pretty Rothley, Leicestershire, The White House is a Georgian property in a classically rural setting. It’s also a property designed for food lovers.

“We use the dining area in the kitchen the most because the light is so great – and the cook is not isolated!” says owner Tony Wilkinson. “But the dining room with its beams and fire is used at Christmas.”

The garden has a food growing area which provides strawberries, raspberries, broad and French beans, peas and herbs.

“The patio area next to the kitchen is excellent for eating out,” says Tony, “whether it’s a barbecue or just a carry out lunch. Last year our daughter got

married in the village church and we used the garden for the reception with a beautiful marquee provided by Funky Tents and food catered by Stones, both local companies.

“The house was briefly used as a convent about a hundred years ago – we know this because we were once visited by nuns who were on a sort of pilgrimage.”

Wood burning stove for cosy winter evenings

White House from rear with

view of Rothley church

The lounge, with high ceiling and parquet flooring


house fact file

Apple trees provide good

fruit for cooking

THE PROPERTY The White House, Rothley, Leics. Detached, three storey Georgian house.

TENURE Freehold

BEDROOMS Six

BATHROOMS Two

INTERIOR Lots of period features including heavily beamed ceilings, sash windows and high ceilings. House has been recently renovated and given a new 26’9” x 16’9” living/dining kitchen in French oak with granite work surfaces and under-floor heating.

GARDENS & GROUNDS Extensive and completely walled landscaped rear gardens.

GUIDE PRICE £875,000

ON SALE WITH Benton’s, 47 Nottingham St, Melton Mowbray, LE13 1NN 01664 563892, www.bentons.co.uk

Modern fittings and range cooker would please any chef

BESPOKEKITCHEN

Moir Wade Design of Syston recently

remodelled the kitchen


Last issue he dug his patch. Now Charlie Boyd is starting to reap the rewardsVEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHT he driest April and May

since records began has been a challenge for the vegetable gardener. While the warm weather

has been great, the lack of rain meant extra attention was needed to stop everything from crisping up to a frazzle.

My oregano just didn’t make it. No matter how much water I supplied, it seemed to be resigned to drying itself out like its cousin on the spice rack. You don’t get any of that nonsense from good old rosemary, hardy old girl that she is. Along with the equally resilient mint, rosemary is looking like establishing itself as a perennial herb in my garden – good news for my roast lamb.

Still, my peas, broad beans and runner beans are looking healthy and my 12 courgette plants (yes, 12 – what can I say? I like courgettes) are starting to show signs of promise.

In pots I have several very strong tomato plants and a single chilli plant braving the Rutland climate. The climbing plants are being supported by some home-made canes. I used a few shop-bought bamboo canes

left over from a previous patch, but realised I had a wealth of materials in my garden. With two large buddleia bushes that needed cutting back, I had dozens of strong yet flexible canes for free – and I think they look way better too.

The other advantage to having lots of twiggy type canes poking up at all angles is that it keeps birds off your produce. You could use a net, but there’s always the danger of birds getting caught in it (and it doesn’t look too pretty), so I prefer the pointed stick method (with help from a bird scarer – see right). If you’re worried about poking yourself in the eye you could put empty plastic bottles on the ends.

The most exciting aspects of my garden though, as far as I’m concerned, were sown years before I moved in: two apple trees, two pear

trees, a plum tree, a greengage (I think!) tree, a walnut tree and a rhubarb patch!

At the time of writing, only the rhubarb is ripe (a crumble and a

crème brulee, as you ask…). With so

much fruit still to reach its peak, it looks like

I’ll be making a LOT of jams and chutneys this autumn!

1Last issue I installed my veg patch in a sheltered spot. I cleared it of grass, dug and turned the soil to a spade head’s depth and edged it with wood.

Beetroot has not been the

only plant coming through. Its

previous life as a lawn has meant a

few weeds and grasses have made

an appearance.

2

Ho! to creat" your...

SHOW US YOUR GARDEN

I’d love to hear how your patch is coping following all the dry weather and I’d also like to try

some of your trusted jam, pickle or chutney recipes for the fruit and veg

I’m growing. Drop me a line at [email protected] and send me some snaps of your patch and the goodies you’ve grown.

A bit of hard graft and

preparation

Before starting veg patch

Runner beansRunners are easy to grow

but like lots of water. Harvest them when they’re small – if you

leave them till you see bean bulges they’re likely

to be less tender


VEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHpart two

4 Shortly after this photograph was taken, we had our first serious rainy day for months. The effect was utterly astonishing and the peas and beans seemed to double in size in just a few days.

My daughter made this bird scarer to help keep our peas safe from hungry woodpigeons. Using three old CDs, a piece of string and some beads (“to make them look pretty, Dad”) she created a shiny, spinny, swirly dangling bird scarer that, so far, has kept peckish pigeons at wing’s length.

You could also try wrapping strips of foil around your canes, or thread some ring-pull tin lids onto a piece of twine. We’ve also heard that a toy rubber snake is a very effective bird deterrent!

Build a bird scarerThings to mak! & do

Top tip: use small canes first, using larger ones when the plants are bigger

But regular weeding (just from casual

observation when watering every morning and evening) has kept my patch looking rather splendid – if

I do say so myself.

3

Cane support is essential

The dawn of MP3 is bad news for birds

PHOTOS: LAURA HARVEY


Tast! of th! garde"The growing of fruit and vegetables is very rewarding. The

planting, weeding, tending and even just watching can be immensely therapeutic. But when push comes to shove, there’s only one reason we grow our own vegetables – and that’s to eat them. The flavour of ultra-fresh veg really needs to be savoured – so here are a couple of recipes that will show off your produce to the full.

Pea, mint and broad bean risotto

* 150g butter

* 1 medium onion, finely chopped

* 300g risotto rice

* 120ml white wine

* Double handful of peas

* Handful chopped mint

* 1 litre stock (vegetable or chicken)

* Double handful ofbroad beans

* Two big handfuls grated Parmesan, pecorino or similar hard Italian cheese

Serves 4 1 Heat half the butter in a large pan, then add the onion and, over a medium heat, cook until soft and translucent.2 Add the rice and stir until coated – a minute or so.3 Add the wine and stir until evaporated.4 Turn the heat down low and add the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring until evaporated/soaked up, before adding another ladleful.5 Take half the beans and half the peas and mash them up a little

with a pestle and mortar or in a food processor.6 When all the stock is added, the rice should be creamy but with a little bite. If it still seems too crunchy, add more stock. 7 Season with salt and pepper to taste then add the peas and beans (mashed and unmashed), the cheese and the remaining butter.8 Stir all this through for three or four minutes, then add the mint.9 Serve and enjoy the taste of your garden in a bowl.

This really couldn’t be simpler. Forget frozen burgers, pink sausages and chicken legs smeared in bright red gloop – this is real BBQ food.1 Take as many courgettes as you like – I like them about 15cm long, the yellow variety are good too for a bit of colour – and cut them in half lengthways. Drizzle with a little olive oil and rub it all over. Season with a little sea salt and black

pepper, then sprinkle over fresh thyme leaves (from your window box, naturally) and grated lemon zest. 2 Put them on a hot grill and turn once. You’re looking at a minute or two tops. The young courgettes are so tender they’re ready to eat – all you’re doing is adding charred lines and heating them through. 3 You can add some finely chopped red chilli if you want a little heat. Mint also works well in place of thyme.4 Enjoy the intense, sweet, chargrilled flavour, perfect with a glass of white wine in the garden after a long day’s work.

* Courgettes

* Lemon

* Thyme

* Olive oil

* Red chilli (optional)

Barbecued courgettes with lemon and thyme

Try growing mint in your herb garden

L’Estabel Cabrières White Coteaux du

Languedoc AOC 2010 Grapes: Clairette, Grenache Blanc.

Light, with apple and lemon flavours to go well

with the risotto. £7.99. duncanmurray

wines.co.uk

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP


Ale used to be brewed for farm workers, and in our farmhouse in Croxton Kerrial it would have

been prepared in the ‘wash house’ using the copper tub, before being piped into the dairy cellar to mature. This strong thirst-quencher would have been drunk in large quantities during harvest.

On September 13, 1992, a potent ale recipe was given to us by our farming neighbour, Ann Botterill – I know because the date is still written on the tatty sheet of paper. We have made the ale many times and the result has always been great for both drinking and cake making! It was entertaining having to explain to visitors why the house smelt of beer!

The Guardian newspaper originally commissioned this cake and after a good deal of experimentation, six were sent out to the BBC Radio 4 Test Match Special team in the West Indies. I gather they were well received. The ale cake was also included in our cake series recorded in our farmhouse for Radio 4.

Incredibly flexible, an ale cake is excellent served with coffee, great eaten with cheese, or topped with cream or custard. What more could you ask of a cake?

PS. Gentlemen love it!

CRICKETER’S ALE CAKELocal cake maker and author Julie Duff shares a beery tale and recipe

HOME BAKING

* 900g dried mixed fruits with peel

* 200ml strong English ale

* 175g butter

* 175g Muscovado sugar

* 1 dessert spoon black treacle

* 1 tbsp malt

* 4 medium free range eggs

* 175g plain flour

* 50g ground almonds

* teaspoon mixed spice

Serves 8-12 1Steep the fruit and peel in the ale, leaving it for at least two days, stirring occasionally.

2Using a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Stir the treacle and malt

into the eggs. Using the mixer on slow, add the flour, ground almonds and spice, together with the eggs, until thoroughly mixed.

3Stir in the steeped fruits and pile the mixture into a lined 20cm/8in round cake tin. Bake in

the centre of a preheated oven at Gas Mark 1 (140C) for 21/2 to 3 hours, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out cleanly. Because of the quantity of liquid used in making this cake, it may take a little longer to cook thoroughly, but don’t worry, this is perfectly normal.

Allow the cake to become cold in the tin, leave on the baking paper and wrap in foil.

4 This cake improves if it is left for two days before eating, to allow the flavour to develop.

5Please note that ovens vary considerably so the time taken to bake can differ.

JULIE DUFF, QUEEN OF CAKES

Julie Duff runs Church Farmhouse Cakes of Croxton Kerrial, Vale of Belvoir. She has written several books on cake making including Cakes: Regional & Traditional, which is available on Amazon. www.churchfarmhousecakes.co.uk

This cake goes well with a chunk of Bosworth Field by Leics Handmade Cheese Co.

Tip: for summer fruitcakes, try using

golden sultanas, which are

wonderfully aromatic


2 2 Use a pencil to trace triangles onto your chosen fabric. Mix

and match materials or colours for a quirky touch. Rotate the template each time you draw another triangle to minimize wasted fabric.

3 Use pinking shears (they prevent fraying) to cut the fabric triangles (or squares or whatever you go for). If you don’t want to fork out on pinking shears then simply set your sewing machine to the zig-zag setting and

sew around the triangle edges. Repeat until you have enough flags to stretch across your space. When finished, iron all the flags.

Ho! to mak"BUNTING TO BRIGHTEN UP YOUR PARTYA cheerful touch to enhance al fresco dining. By Emily Holt

1 1Make a triangle template out

of card. It doesn’t matter what size, just go with what you fancy. I think 20cm length is a good size.

ABOUT THE WRITER

Forest ElfEmily Holt – aka Forest Elf – has a new home accessories and vintage clothing shop at the Stable Yard, Cotesbach, Leics. For more information, go to the Forest Elf website: www.forestelf.co.uk

4 Space the flags evenly along the bias binding, putting the top edges of the flags inside the fold and stopping 40cm short of either end. Pin the flags in place and run an iron over the binding to make it easier to sew.

4

5 Sew the flags to the binding and use the flag-free end sections to create 40cm loops for hanging your bunting (see above, right).

5

Top tip: choose a fabric design to suit the event where your bunting will be on show

3

FINISHED!Now hang your bunting, mix a Pimm’s and light the barbie

What you’ll needTo make 4m of bunting

* Card * Pencil

* Ruler * 1m fabric

* Pins * Iron

* Sewing machine

* Pinking shears (sawtoothed scissors, pictured)

* Bias binding (25mm x 4m)

A NOTE ABOUT FABRICS: Use any fabric you wish for this project: try using three varieties or go crazy with more! Bunting can be any shape and size you want, you don’t have to stick to classic triangles. A quick Google search will reveal several online fabric shops.

Bunting is a simple way to brighten up your home or to decorate a party. For parties it looks more special then using paper decorations and you can bring it out every year. In the long run you will save money. It will be unique and you’ll know that no one else has the same decoration. You can also make themed bunting for different rooms. I particularly love bunting intertwined among leaves or brightening up a hand rail.

Emily’s bunting photographed at the Garden Barn, Cotesbach


Patinated objets d’art to add a unique touch to your kitchen or dining room. All the antiques

here are available locally and have been lovingly selected by the man behind Matthew Cox

Antiques. Find out more at www.matthewcoxantiques.com

Antiques for dining areasOff licenc! sig"Seeing as traditional off licences have all but vanished from our troubled high streets, this hand-painted early 20th century shop sign really is a piece of history. Indulge your kitchen with this unique piece of folk art.Price: £220Where? Rutland Antiques Centre, Uppingham, 01572 824011,

Fre!-standing pre# tabl!Not every kitchen has enough space for a free-standing preparation table, but if yours does are you’re looking to fill it with something useful but out of the ordinary, then look no further than this. An early 20th century example from a leather works in Barcelona, the table’s Carrara marble top provides the perfect surface for rolling pastry. Its deep drawers and industrial design make it a practical and fashionable choice.Price: £1450Where? matthewcoxantiques.com, 0780 2510503

Wal$ cabinetIn keeping with our enduring love affair with shabby chic, this beautiful 19th century glazed wall cabinet in its original paint would look great full of chunky glassware. Why not give modern furniture stores a miss and get something timeless like this?Price: £400Where? Claire Langley Antiques, Stamford, 01780 752555, www.clairelangleyantiques.co.uk

HOMESNeed a bigger house for your antiques? Turn

to p74

Schnauzer dates from circa 2006

Edwardia" hig% chair £175 is a small price to pay for a charming old high chair that will support your little one as his food-smothered face grins at the table. Made at the turn of the century from oak and elm.Price: £175Where? Swans, Oakham, 01572 724364, www.swansofoakham.co.uk

Coaching tableKnown as ‘coaching tables’, these collapsible stands enabled the owner to enjoy a port and a cheese board wherever they fancied. This mahogany example was made in 1825. Price: £750 Where? Robin Cox Antiques, 01780 752555

ScalesStill in perfect working order, this

set of scales will make a statement as well as lots of cakes. Crafted at

the start of the last century and made to last another. Price: £140Where? Rutland Antiques Centre

Uppingham, rutlandantiques.com


DREAM KITCHENEach issue we track down a reader’s kitchen and photograph it in all its glory

FLOOROne section of

flooring is oak and the other (not visible) is tiled for easy cleaning.

OWNER PROFILE

NAME: Rachel Green

OCCUPATION: Pro chef

WHAT DO LIKE MOSTABOUT YOUR KITCHEN?

“The smooth, clean lines and the

space it offers. I love the central

island – it’s purple with granite.”

ANY ADVICE ONGETTING ANEW KITCHEN?

“Go to well-established

companies and shop

around. It pays to have

a good relationship

with the kitchen designer. They need to

understand the type of

person you are.”

“I ‘m mad about purple,” says pro chef and cookbook writer Rachel Green, who

has just had this kitchen installed in her home in Tealby, Lincs, by Baker Street Kitchens of Newark. “My chef top is purple and my stationery is purple. Having said that, only the island in my kitchen is purple, the rest is a colour mixed specially called ‘spelt’.”

Rachel is using her new space for both business – including filming, food styling and recipe development – and pleasure. “It’s an investment, for a lifetime,” she says. “Everything is hand-crafted.

“The four-oven Aga has definitely revived my baking skills and I love cooking meats and making sauces on my range. As well as being my office, this kitchen is the hub of the home, we all congregate there and there’s usually a home-baked cake on a stand on the central island.”

With festival season in full swing, Rachel is busy travelling the UK putting on cookery demos. She also teaches at the Divertimenti cookery schools in London and Cambridge and is creating recipes for various clients. Find out more at www.rachel-green.co.uk.

CONTACT This kitchen was designed, crafted and fitted by Baker Street of Newark, Nottinghamshire, 01623 882288 www.bakerstreetkitchens.co.uk

Sho! us your

UNITS Baker Street’s

curved cupboards look fantastic and their lines soften the entire space.


Top tip: Mix and match surfaces

like granite, stainless steel and wood so the light

reflects differently on each to create contrasts

COOKERSRachel’s beloved

Aga sits below a bespoke canopy. Also installed is her workhorse Britannia range cooker and two Neff ovens. Serious kit.

LIGHTSThree hanging

lights provide extra illumination above the central island work station, while pin lights lessen the impact of a low ceiling.

EXTRAS Rachel’s kitchen wouldn’t be the same without her old butcher’s block and steel hospital trolley (not visible).

COLOUR SCHEMEUsing a stand-out colour like purple in a small but prominent area provides the wow factor and offers a point of focus

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

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6. great food magazine july/aug 2011

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