6th walk.pdf

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The ACROPOLISand the EPTAPYRGIO

6 th WALK

Walls (1)

Outside the main forti!ed enclosure of the city, lies the Acropolis, whosewalls follow the same general layout as those of the city below, i.e. analternating sequence of rectangular towers and triangular defensive pro-

jections at the most vulnerable points. Evidence of the subsequent addi-tion of the Acropolis is the existence of towers on the side of the interme-

• ! "#$%&'(( ) *+$ ! ! ," "!$-. !/ 0" ! 1%( 2#) 3) % " (% %4 %567 #589(+4#%7:Part of the precincts of Eptapyrgio/ nowadays used for staging cultural events:



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diate wall facing the Acropolis, which wouldhave originally been the external face of thedefensive walls of the city. In the north-east-ern section of the Acropolis, close to Eptapy-rgio, there is a large Byzantine cistern, whichwas used as a water conduit.

Eptapyrgio Fort (Yedi Kule) (2) The Eptapyrgio Fort is an adaptation of anearlier Byzantine fort, which underwentmodi!cation in 1431, immediately after thecapture of the city by the Turks, as we learnfrom the Turkish inscription above the maingate of its central tower; the walls of the tow-er also incorporate some pieces of sculpturetaken from an earlier Byzantine building. TheEptapyrgio owes its name, like its namesakein Constantinople, to the seven rectangulartowers of which it is composed, together withthe curtain wall and the central tower of thegateway, laid out in the shape of the Greekletter ". It is a polygonal fort, formed on thenorth-eastern edge of the Acropolis with theaddition of an almost semi-circular wall fol-lowing the outline of its enclosure, towards

the interior of the Acropolis. The originallayout of the closed fort must date from thelate-Byzantine period. Research conducted inparallel with restoration in recent years has

yielded important new evidence on the manyinterventions and repairs the fort has under-went, as well as on the original form and ar-ticulation of the towers, which have internalvaulted stairways to allow communicationbetween the different #oors. The most radi-cal modi!cations appear to have been madeto the central entrance tower in the period of

Turkish rule, when the fort was used as theheadquarters of the Turkish governor. In thelate 19 th century, the fort was converted intoa prison, known by the Turkish name of thefort – Yedi Kule. Various new structures werebuilt to serve the needs of the prison, bothwithin the fort and on the external southernface – which was completely concealed. Theprison was closed down in 1989 and the fort

now houses the of!ces of the 9 th Ephorate ofByzantine Antiquities.

6th WALK: THE ACROPOLIS AND THE EPTAPYRGIO



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6th WALK: THE ACROPOLIS AND THE EPTAPYRGIO



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• !"#$ Casa Bianca % & '() *+#' ! 1911-12, %$ ! "!)#! .") / "(#$ " # "034' 5'"! & ('6 78 '#*'0" #$8 : 8 !+8 ;+4 !"#38 ." # *3#+8<The Casa Bianca mansion, built in 1911-12 by architect Piero Arrigoni and nowadays functioningas exhibition space for the Municipal Art Gallery<



179

In the broader region of Thessaloniki, there were two distinct locations

which set the boundaries of the old residential core of the city. To theeast, lay the valley of the Byzantine Kalamaria, and to the west the areaknown as Çayir (Livadi). Travelers’ accounts of the 17 th century tell usthat there were no houses outside the city walls. The expansion of thecity commenced only in the 2 nd half of the 19 th century, when the seawalls began to be demolished (1866-67), followed by sections of the west-ern and eastern walls in the low-lying areas of the city. Signi!cant eventswhich in"uenced the decision of the city’s inhabitants to move out of thehistoric centre were the construction of the railway linking Thessalonikiwith Skopje (1873), Belgrade (1888), Monastir (1894) and Constantino-ple (1896), as well as a series of !res (1877, 1896, 1898), and the open-ing of the !rst tramway (horse-drawn) in 1893, followed by the electrictramway in 1907.

Port and Old Factories of Western Thessaloniki To the west of the city, beyond the walls there existed a large numberof inns, workshops and stores. It was here, in 1867, that the nationalgardens were established, later known as “Garden of the Princes”. Themain characteristic of the area was its intense commercial activity, butit was also the only starting point on the journey to the surroundingregions, the rest of Greece (now free) and the neighbouring states. At

the same time, the construction of the !rst railway station, the port, thewarehouses, the !rst factories and workshops, all gave Thessaloniki adistinctive character; the city was now the most important administra-tive, military, commercial and !nancial centre of south-eastern Europe,second only to Constantinople.We offer here a brief account of merely the most important of the his-toric buildings and complexes of the district, mainly old factories andindustrial facilities. These are the port facilities (in the old section, offKountouriotou St.), the Old Custom’s House (in the old part of the port),the historic building on 10, Anayennisseos Street, the old railway station

(at the western exit from the city, 4, Palaiou Stathmou St.), the CarolosFix complex (26 Oktovriou St., next to the Museum of Water Supply),

THESSALONIKI BEYOND THE WALLS



180

the Hatziyannaki-Altinalmazi Flour Mill (now the Mylos leisure and artscomplex, 56, Andreou Georgiou St.), the Old Central Pumping Station ofthe Water Company (now the Museum of Water and Water Supply – 49,26 Oktovriou St.), the Old Public Abattoir (26 Oktovriou St., vicinity ofthe Water Museum), the Noussia Bros. Tannery (26 Oktovriou St.), the

Torres Textile Mill (26 Oktovriou and Andreou Georgiou Sts.), the La-zarist Monastery Seminary (25-27, Kolokotroni St., in the Stavroupolidistrict), the Makedoniki Silk Factory ‘Ilios’ (now primary school on 134,Langada St. – Nymfaiou St. – Australias St. – D. Komninou St.).

Eastern Thessaloniki - The Pyrgon DistrictBefore 1885, there was limited development in the eastern area beyondthe walls, while there existed large expanses of agricultural land thatwere beginning to turn into plots. When development of the district be-gan, it was rapid, the new residents being mainly families of high in-come and various ethnic backgrounds. At the same time, smaller houseswere also going up – homes for the middle and even lower classes. Therampant growth of the district continued up until the liberation from

Turkish rule, while at the same time various ethnic communities, andthe Ottoman Administration itself, had been establishing clinics here,public buildings and even some industrial facilities, within the contextof a more general programme of modernization. We shall brie!y mention

just some of the more important buildings which have survived in theeastern part of the city, outside the historic centre, starting with those inpublic use (clinics, factories) and ending with the Pyrgon boulevard and

some of its villas. We shall also mention some contemporary buildingsthat have been designated important works of architecture. The YMCA building (HANTH Square), the Armenian Church (4, Dialet-ti St.), the Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum (HANTH Square), the

Thessaloniki Museum of Byzantine Culture (Stratou Ave. 2), the 3 rd ArmyCorps building (former Turkish barracks – Stratou Ave., opposite theMuseum of Byzantine Culture), the Infectious Diseases Hospital (ItalianHospital, 13 G. Lambraki St.), the Papafeio Orphanage ‘Meliteus’ (33Papa" St.), the Old Russian Hospital – Historical Archive of Macedonia(21 Papanastasiou St.), the Yeni Tzami (Old Archaeological museum, 30,A. Mouseiou St.), the Venereal Disease Hospital (51 Halkidikis St. & 124Delfon St.).

The existence in the area of expansion to the east of large industrial fa-cilities was no obstacle to its development as a desirable place to live forsocial classes with a large range of incomes. Such facilities dominatedindividual streets and whole districts of the city, determining their char-acter through their presence. We shall con"ne ourselves to just two ofthese industrial facilities, which ranked among the most important ofthe city and continue through their presence to de"ne the character ofthe neighborhood around them: the YFANET Textile Factory (Papa" –Perdika – Omirou – Ioanninon – Ydras Sts.) and the Allatini Mills (Depot

district, G. Papandreou St. and 2, Laskaratou St.). The district of Pyrgon or Exohon, along Pyrgon Avenue (now known as




181

Vassilissis Olgas and Vassileos Georgiou Avenues) was – until the im-mediate post-war years – one of the most important and characteristicurban districts of Thessaloniki. Its development began with the demoli-tion of the sea walls and part of the low-lying section of the eastern wallsof the historic nucleus of the city – which allowed !rst of all the layingout of Hamidie Avenue (now E. Amynis Ave.) and later the expansion ofthe city into the broader eastern area outside the city centre.In 1883, Moraitopoulos described this area as full of country villas, be-longing to the af"uent families of the city, which he referred to as pyrgoi (towers). He also noted that these villas ‘cover a large part of the seafrontas far as the steam-powered mill of Mr. Allatini’. By 1912, the number of

pyrgoi on each side of the district’s main street, known as Alatini Degir-meni (Allatini Mill Avenue), Sahilhaneler (Avenue of Seaside Houses) ormore commonly ‘Pyrgon Boulevard’, had increased to a hundred. Inter-spersed among them, were the smaller homes of less af"uent families,without the traditional distinction into separate communities based onreligious af!liation.

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182

Some of these !ne houses were built to plans by prominent architects ofthe period, such as V. Poselli, R. Arrigoni and X. Paionidis. It is remark-able that both better- and lesser-known architects adopted a distinctiveeclecticism combining elements of neoclassicism, Renaissance, Baroqueand art nouveau. Particular reference should be made to the Chateaumon Bonheur, with its mediaeval battlements and exterior surfacesof uncoated brick, and the Casa Bianca, largely art nouveau in style,but uniquely combined with classical and Renaissance elements. Onthe other hand, the method of construction and general organization ofthe ground plan demonstrates a relatively high degree of innovation. Ingeneral terms, the imposing buildings are freely set within luxuriantlyplanted gardens, while individual areas within the villas are articulatedon either side of a central hall or corridor, along the narrow sides ofwhich the main entrance is located.During the inter-war years, the building stock along the avenue wasincreased by a small number of new constructions in"uenced by con-temporary trends in architecture (Bauhaus, Art Deco). At the same timea large number of the imposing older villas were abandoned, owing tothe departure of the Muslims and of a number of Jewish families. Theexpanding range of property owners, due to inheritance or sale, led toa sidelining of the district’s original function and to the introduction ofpublic uses. Moreover, after 1922, many of the abandoned buildingswere used to house refugees. More houses still were abandoned duringthe Second World War, when the Jewish inhabitants of the quarter weredeported by the occupying forces. A large number of houses were also

expropriated.When the occupation came to an end, the ownership of many of the vil-las changed again, owing to human losses and the con!scations andexchanges of property that followed in the wake of the war. The post-warperiod saw sweeping change in the character of the district. Expecta-tions of a better standard of living left ordinary people with no alternativebut to sell their land to property developers in exchange for apartmentsin the new buildings, exploiting the building regulations to the very limit,with the decades of the 1960’s and 1970’s becoming a period of mass re-development. Characterless apartment blocks were constructed not onlyon the remaining plots along the avenue, but also in the plots created bydividing up the spacious gardens of the original villas.

The transformation in building scale was intensi!ed by the construc-tion of apartment blocks even on the site of the old pyrgoi and smallerresidences, demolished in the tidal wave of development that demon-strated ignorance and indifference to the modern architectural heritage.

Just 22 of the old villas escaped the onslaught, most of them still inuse today, a small number still derelict. In detail, the surviving villasare as follows (in parenthesis we mention the former use for which theywere known, as well as their present use): Villa Allatini (198, Vas. OlgasAve., currently the head of!ces of the Thessaloniki Prefectural Author-

ity), house on 201, Delfon Street (still a private residence), Casa Bianca(Fernandez family home, 214, Vas. Olgas Ave., now exhibition galleries




183

of the Municipal Art Gallery), Villa Nehama (203, Vas. Olgas Ave., nowhousing a restaurant and private coaching school), home of SeifoulahPasha or Villa Mordoh (162, Vas. Olgas Ave., former Martiou Branchof IKA, now home to the Municipal Art Gallery and the 5 th MunicipalDistrict), Villa Hirs (144, Vas. Olgas Ave., former 1 st Police Station, nowuninhabited), Marokou family home (133, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly aschool – boarding school of the National Foundation for Protection of theDeaf and Dumb, now of•ces of a public service), Villa Hatzilazarou (131,Vas. Olgas Ave., Siaga home, still inhabited), Villa Ahmet Kapantzi (108,Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly 4 th and 5 th Boys High School, now EducationalCentre of the Cultural Foundation of the National Bank of Greece), Cha-teau mon Bonheur (110, Vas. Olgas Ave., uninhabited), Villa Ahmet andYusuf Kapantzi (105, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly NATO of•ces, now headof•ces of the Thessaloniki Planning and Environmental Protection Serv-ice), Villa Yiako Modiano (84, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly the Governor’sResidence, now the Ethnological and Folklore Museum of Macedonia-

Thrace), house on 71, Vas. Olgas Avenue (formerly Korai School, now achild day care centre), Villa Osman Ali Bey (36, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly

• ! " #$%&'% ( ) *'&' + ( , $* %!-./ 0 $% 1234.- & 59967 82:'$ & ; 3'<- ;3=- >The Thessaloniki Museum of Byzantine Culture7 built in 5996 to plans by Kyriakos Krokos>




184

Melissa Orphanage, now of!ces of the Centre for Byzantine Research,Aristotle University), Ha!z Bey Villa (32, Vas. Olgas Ave., now School forthe Blind), Villa Tzeborga (20, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly Italian Consu-late, now uninhabited), Villa Themeli (24, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly Levi

Modiano and home of Mihailidis family, now of!ces of a private com-pany), Villa Iosef Modiano (5, Vas. Olgas Ave., formerly Annex of the 1 st




185

Boys’ High School, now uninhabited), Villa Hazimisef (3, Vas. Olgas Ave.,formerly 1 st Boys’ High School now Thessaloniki 1 st High School), VillaNavaro (29, Vas. Georgiou Ave., now of!ces of private company), VillaIvan Hatzimisef (27, Vas. Georgiou Ave., 12 th Primary School, now unin-

habited), Villa of Hatzimisef Brothers (25, Vas. Georgiou Ave., formerlySchool for the Deaf and Dumb, now a café-restaurant).


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187

Museums of Thessaloniki

1. Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum: 6 M. Andronikou St., HANTH Square,tel. 2310-830.538, http:// www.amth.g r . Open (Monday: 10:30 – 17.00,

Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 – 15:00).2. Museum of Byzantine Culture: 2 Stratou Ave., PO 546 40, tel. 2310 –

868.570, http:// www.mbp.g r . Open: (Monday: 10:30 – 17.00, Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 – 15:00).

3. White Tower – Thessaloniki (Digital exhibition of history of Thessaloniki),White Tower, tel. 2310-267.832. http://www.lpth.org. Open: (Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 – 15:00).

4. Museum of the Macedonian Struggle: 23 Prox. Koromila St., tel. 2310-229.778, www.macedonian-heritage.g r . Open: (Tuesday-Friday: 9:00 – 14:00,Saturday 10:00 – 14:00).

5. Folklore and Ethnology Museum of Macedonia-Thrace: 68 V. Olgas Ave., PO546 42, tel. 2310-830.591, 889.840, http://www.lemmth.gr. Open (Monday

– Sunday: 9:00-15:00, Wednesday: 10:00 – 22:00, Thursday: closed).6. Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki: 13 A. Mina St., PO 546 24, tel. 2310-250.406, http://www.jmth.gr. Open (Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday11:00-14:00, Wednesday, Thursday 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:00).

7. Aghios Dimitrios Crypt Museum: Church of Aghios Dimitrios, PO 546 33,tel. 2310-270.591. Open (Monday 12.30-19.00, Tuesday-Thursday – Satur-day 8.00-20.00, Friday 8.00-23.00, Sunday 10.30-20.00).

8. Ecclesiastical Museum: 7 Vogatsikou St. & Mitropoleos St., PO 546 22, tel.2310 – 261.216. Open: (Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 – 13:30).

9. Thessaloniki Museum of War: 4 G. Lambraki St., PO 546 36, tel. 2310-249.803-4. (Open: Tuesday-Friday 9:00-14:00, Saturday-Sunday 10:00 –14:00).

Archaeological Museums in neighbouring Prefectures

1. Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aiges: Vergina, PO 590 31 Imathia, tel.23310-92.347, e-mail: [email protected]. Open: (Monday 12:00-19:30,

Tuesday-Sunday 8:00-19:30).2. Pella Archaeological Museum: Pella, PO 580 05, Pella, tel. 23820-31.160.

Open: (Monday 12:00-19:30, Tuesday-Sunday 8:00-19:30).3. Dion Archaeological Museum: Dion, Pieria, PO 601 00, tel. 23510-53.206.

Open: (Tuesday-Sunday 8:00 – 19:00).



188

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189

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UNESCO World Culture Heritage Monuments.

Cultural heritage monuments which have received a Europa Nostra award forexcellent restoration.

The photographs used to illustrate the Walks came from the archive of the Thessaloniki History Centre and from the collections of Koniordos Vassilis andVlassidis Vlassis, Grigoriou Alexandros, Theo%laktou Anna, Papaioannou Aggelos,

Tsiantoukas Georgios, Museum of Byzantine Culture, Museum of the MacedonianStruggle, Agioritiki Estia, Deputy Mayor of Culture Municipality of Thessaloniki,

Thessaloniki Municipal Art Gallery and Thessaloniki Municipality TopographyDepartment.

Back cover: Mosaic, with decorative themes, from arch in the Acheiropoiitos Church,5 th century.



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