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On top of Maremma
LA NATURA IN PERSONALAL NAN TAA URA IN PERSONAN
MONTE AMIATA:rocks and spirituality between the Tuscan hilltops
www.turismoinmaremma.it
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Montagna incantata,
montagna di bronzo sacra agli etruschi,
isola in terraferma.
Enchanting mountain range,
bronze mountain Etruscans considered sacred,
mainland island. 3
Extremely ancient extinct volcano, the
Amiata area is entrancing with its eye-
catching views and millenary secrets.
Some call it a mountain, others a mount;
while the former stresses the feminine and
maternal aspects, the delicate and light lines,
the latter, on the other hand, underlines its
ruggedness, the narrow gorges, the ravines,
the rock faces.
A double, androgynous face which also
transpires from its mythical patrimony:
tender love legends (il Prato della Contessa,
la bella Antiglia), miraculous and salvifi c
appearances (la Madonna di Lamula,
la Vergine della Carità, the stories of San
Bernardino), Th en strong and fi ery legends
where the characters are demons (la schiaccia
del Diavolo), dragons and monsters (il Drago
della Selva or il mostro di Semproniano),
blasphemers and criminals (Camicione and
Giovagnolo).
A land Amiata where each historical
period has left its imprint: pile dwellings,
prehistoric areas, traces of Roman villas,
venues where magicians and paladins stayed
(the cave of Merlin the Wizard); fortresses
and towers and medieval castles (the Fortress
of Montelaterone, the Aldobrandesco Castle
in Arcidosso and Potentino in Seggiano,
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the Fortress of Silvana, the Castle of Triana);
noble and austere Renaissance buildings
(Palazzo Nerucci in Castel del Piano and
Palazzo Sforza Cesarini in Santa Fiora, Villa
Sforzesca in Castell’Azzara); then eighteenth
and nineteenth century squares and road
widenings to fi nally reach the modernization
of the twentieth century hand in hand with
the mining culture.
An agglomeration of homes nestled
on hilltops and fairy-tale summits:
like Roccalbegna, perfect blend of
natural phenomena (the “sasso” rock
tower), workmanship (the magic castle
hanging over the Stronghold) and art
(Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè,
Francesco Nasini). Or Rocchette di Fazio
(Semproniano), miraculously hanging over
the gorges of the Albegna river.
Or Montelaterone: from one end it looks
like it’s about to fall over the top of the spur
supporting it and from above it looks like
an extremely solid framework for all homes
which cram up one against the other till
they reach the fortress at the very top.
And everywhere you’ll fi nd
Romanesque parish churches,
Renaissance churches,
convents, artworks, ancient,
historically valuable
itineraries still visible; these
paths can still be seen and recall
the pilgrimages which led to
Rome thousand of years ago.
ly hanging over
ver.
ne end it looks
e top of the spur
ve it looks like
ork for all homes
the other till
e very top.
es,
recall
o
o.
Towns and villages set like jewels, tiny
art coff ers: like the magnifi cent ceramics
by Della Robbia kept in the Parish Churches
of Sante Flora and Lucilla of Santa Fiora, the
many paintings by Nasini which every
town boastS and which can be especially
seen by visiting Castel del Piano.
In the villages (Grosseto’s Amiata
area has eight town councils)
which surround the Amiata
volcanic cone opposite the
springs, the works of art chiseled
by famous artists rise side by side
those of the anonymous creators
of the urban plan. Th e use of local
stone, peperino carved and friezed
by expert hands, is the material used for the special
buildings and monuments of this land: castles and
seigniorial and plebeian homes, but also fountains,
wells, obelisks, monuments, votive tablets, so
visitors can follow this distinctive line on the
discovery of the material and imagination world
of this mountain as well.
As an example, the evocative capitals of the Pieve
di Lamula (crossroad between Arcidosso,
Montelaterone, Castel del Piano), where
warriors and symbols, bonds and plots,
cavaliers and animals, are interwoven
just like in a enigmatic bestiary. Often
springs and wells still spout next to the
parish churches and convents or their
ruins, testifying pure devoutness for water
which fl ows to quench the thirst of the Amiata,
Maremma and Sienese regions and to celebrate
this wealth, customs and feasts were created with
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legends and fables handed down through
generations.
Poets and mystics came here for inspiration
(Giovan Domenico Peri, seventeenth
century country poet of the enchanting
mountain, would read his poems at the
Fonte del Poeta in Arcidosso,) and oratories
and sacred shrines were built over the
stretch of spring waters.
Together with the cult of water, of fi re, rose
a pagan strength to destroy evil, evoking
ancient spells and initiation rituals.
A strong sense of religion based on
anything natural, part of an emotionally
charged mysticism which has always
enveloped this corner of Tuscany with its
“antique heart,” to adopt an expression by
Padre Ernesto Balducci, fi ne intellectual
from Santa Fiora, one of the greatest men
of this land. Mysticism represents another
itinerary truly identifying the Amiata region
which today has become a romantic core,
bringing together religions and philosophies
which coexist without confl ict. So you will
not be surprised to fi nd ancient ruins facing
the David Lazzaretti tower in Monte Labbro
(Lazzaretti had tried to build an egalitarian
society inspired by Christian values by
the end of the nineteenth century and for
this reason, was killed in 1878). Nearby,
the Tibetan community of Dzog Chen di
Merigar, which chose Monte Labbro as its
headquarters. All lying under the iron Cross
set on top of Monte Amiata and built at the
beginning of the twentieth century, a witness
to the secular Catholic tradition which
brought saints and mystics to the mountain:
from Santa Caterina da Siena (the homes
where she lived still stand in Montegiovi
and Monticello), to San Bernardino to
San Francesco. And amongst the crosses,
those which preacher Baldassarre Audibert
planted as banners representing penance and
salvation. He dotted crossroads and summits,
towns and countrysides with many wooden
signs of Christ all dated 1846 and stuck to
the ground with a peperino base.
Currently, other itineraries have been added
to those from the past and aim to valorize
the environmental and enogastronomic
resources with many discoveries to be made:
from the museum course to the National
Park of the Mines, to the Road for sampling
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Local Products (oil from the “Dop Olivastra
Seggianese, Doc wine of Montecucco,
Igp chestnuts, mushrooms, cheeses, cold
cuts, typical dishes, sweets, bread) on the
discovery of natural reserves, animals, fl ora.
Meander through the paths which run across
the heart of the mountain either by car, foot,
bicycle or horse. A wide range of choices
for those who wish to discover a territory,
to learn about its history and traditions,
especially with the intent of taking a part of
it with them back home.
Th e center of town which builds up to a
pyramid made of homes and narrow alleys,
culminates with the Aldobrandesco Castle (the
primitive center dates back to the eleventh
century) and the three churches San Niccolo,
San Leonardo and Sant’Andrea are interesting
examples of the Romanesque style.
Inside the castle you will fi nd the David
Lazzaretti Center for Studies and the Fauna
Park’s Visitor Center. Th e Sanctuary of the Ma-
donna Incoronata (fi fteenth-sixteenth centuries)
is outside the town walls on the road leading to
Montelaterone. Further on down, surrounded
by chestnut groves, you will run into the Parish
Church Santa Maria ad Lamulas, extremely
fi ne example of Romanesque art. Mid way
between Arcidosso and Castel del Piano you
will fi nd the Convent of the Cappuccini friars
with paintings by Vanni and Nasini and the
early twentieth century small chapel dedicated
to Merope Becchini. Near Arcidosso, there’s
the Castle of Montelaterone, fi rst to be built
in the western Amiata region, (1004 a.C.) and
evocative and intact villages like Stribugliano,
Zancona, Macchie, Salaiola.
Arcidosso
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Th e town has a medieval historical center
with fourteenth century walls which still
stand and are viable and the churches of
San Leonardo and S.S. Sacramento and next
to Porta dell’Orologio you’ll fi nd
Palazzo Nerucci, aristocratic
palace in the renaissance
style (mid sixteenth
century). Palazzo Nerucci
hosts the Museum of
Ancient Art (many
artworks of the
Nasini family of
painters and a self
portrait by Rosalba
Carriera and more)
and modern art (a
collection of posters and
paintings by Edo Cei).
Piazza Madonna has two
fi fteenth century churches (Churches of San
Niccolò e Lucia and Madonna delle Grazie).
Th ey host highly valuable paintings and
furnishings including the fi fteenth century
plate Madonna delle Grazie by an artist
who was part of the Sano di Pietro
school. In Corso Nasini there
is the San Giuseppe Oratory
hosting valuable artworks
by Francesco Nasini.
Just outside the town,
the small Romanesque
church of Santa Lucia.
In addition, there are
other typical medieval
centers like Montegiovi
and Montenero d’Orcia,
today renown village for its
production of Montecucco oil
and wine.
Castel del Piano
ou’ll fi nd
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wo
plate Madonn
who was
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It’s highest town of the Monte
Amiata Grosseto region at 809
meters a.s.l. Facing the Valle del
Paglia, Castell’Azzara has been
the mining town par excellence
(the area is full of cinnabar
and even attracted the Etruscans from the
Sovana area), a part of history which has
been currently documented by
the Cornacchino Galleries open
to visitors. Worthy of note, the
sixteenth century Villa Sforzesca
which was recently fi nely
restored and Rocca Silvana next
to Selvena, fortress of great
strategic importance owned by
the Aldobrandeschi family.
Still visible, the octagonal plan, the tower,
the ruins of the seigniorial palace and the
town wall sections.
Castell’Azzara
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Main hinge between the Amiata and
Maremma regions, the Cinigiano town
council comprises the small villages of Sasso
d’Ombrone, the medieval castle of Colle
Massari and the famous Montecucco Factory
which has given its name to the valuable
Doc wine; Poggi del Sasso and Monticello
Amiata follow. Poggi del Sasso hosts the
new monastery of the Siloe Community.
Small gem for the architecture and works of
art it off ers, Monticello Amiata stands out
both for its well rooted mystical traditions
(legend and sanctuary of the Madonna di Val
di Prata) and for its anthropological ones.
the Home Museum off ers visitors a true
example of how the material patrimony of
the nineteenth century country civilization
has been valorized and is open to visitors to
tell the humble and working-class history
as opposed to the noble and aristocratic one
epitomized by the castles of Porrona (with
town parishes and two seigniorial villas) and
by Castiglioncello Bandini, Aldobrandesco
fortress, open terrace overlooking the
Maremma expanses which reach the sea.
Cinigianonigian
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Th e town is an enchanting natural
environment, unspoilt and primitive, off ering
many interesting buildings and works of
art: the Sasso and the Rocca, the labyrinth
of roads and alleys and small buildings of
the historical center, the Church of Santi
Pietro e Paolo, perhaps the most important
Romanesque monument of the entire
western Amiata region. With works of art by
Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè and
Francesco Nasini. Th en the palaces: Bichi
Ruspoli and della Lana. A short distance away
the Castello della Triana, which fi rst belonged
to the Aldobrandeschi family and later to the
Piccolomini. Going down towards Maremma
you will run into the small village of Santa
Caterina where an Ethnographic Museum
was set up, hosting original items which were
used during feasts and popular entertainment.
Th en Vallerona and Cana.
Roccalbegnaccalbeg
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Th e town rapidly falls from the terziere
di Castello a Borgo to Montecatino with
sudden rises and steep slopes which are the
main attraction of the town. Everything is
worth a visit here: from the Convent delle
Clarisse to the Sant’Agostino Convent, to
the small Misericordia church, to the parish
church of Saints Flora and Lucilla, which
hosts valuable della Robbia terracotta
decorations (fi fteenth century).
Do visit the Peschiera, a big garden park
where the waters of the springs of the
Fiora river run, and where rare vegetation
is cultivated. And the cemetery which
houses the mortal remains of David
Lazzaretti, Amiata’s Messiah, of Father
Ernesto Balducci, the memorial stone of
the Niccioleta martyrs (Eighty miners
who were shot down by the nazis on June
14 1944) and the tomb of Statesman
Fernando Di Giulio. In Piazza Garibaldi,
besides the Sforza Cesarini Renaissance
Palace, you will also fi nd the Museum of
Mines where you can relive the mining
life. Th e village and Selva Convent are
interesting to visit.
Santa Fiora
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Nestling on a hill following the Vivo, Vetra,
Ormena and Matrolla streams, it off ers the
possibility of discovering many art treasures,
some exposed in the Palazzo Pubblico
Museum and others in the churches and
oratories: San Rocco, with frescoes by
Girolamo di Domenico, San Bartolomeo, the
Corpus Domini, the Madonna della Carità,
temple of excellent Renaissance make whose
construction is tied to a famous legend.
Also extremely interesting, the Museo
dell’Olio, oil museum with machinery
and tools of the era. Th e Potentino Castle,
dating back to 1042, is only a kilometer
away and is a fi nely restored example of a
medieval manor. Worth a visit, the Garden
of Daniel Spoerri, perfectly evocative with
a spacious environment hosting modern art
installations. Th e Pescina village is delightful.
Seggiano
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It hangs over a hillock overlooking the
Albegna river, with the small towns of
Cellena and Catabbio. Worth a visit, the
Santa Croce Church, the parish church of
Santi Vincenzo and Anastasio, the Oratory of
San Rocco. Semproniano stands out for its
majestic olive groves and a millenary one
still boasts sons and descendents, pride of
the local community. Here poet Mario Luzi,
born from a local family, drew much of his
inspiration. Of great emotional impact, the
small village of Rocchette di Fazio, perched
over the Albegna river. A medieval village
rising above the Aldobrandeschi Fortress,
which looks like it’s suspended between
earth and sky just like a nativity scene. In
Rocchette you will also fi nd the ruins of
a sixteenth century Hospital, of the Court
House and Palazzo Pubblico. Th e villages of
Petricci and Cellena are enchanting.
Sempronianompronia
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Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 117 Upper Monte AmiataIt was set up to preserve the migratory bird life, a wide reserve surrounding the beech-wood and chestnut forests.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Monte Labbro natural reserveArcidosso town councilSurrounding the mountain by the same name it reaches 1,190 meters a.s.l. It offers beautiful native vegetation and many rare animal species, amongst which the lanner. The fl ora is also abundant. On the peak, ruins of buildings dating back to the Davide Lazzaretti movement.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI)118 The Monte Amiata Fauna reserveInside the reserve you will fi nd a sort of wild park with fallow deer, moufl ons and Apennine wolves.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Rocconi natural reserveRoccalbegna and Semproniano town councils. It spreads over the upper valley of Albegna with its spectacular gorges. It has an extraordinary amount of spontaneous orchid species and even rare birds of prey.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Pescinello natural reserveRoccalbegna town council Right next to the mountain village, it reaches 800 meters a.s.l., has an extraordinary amount of animal and botanical species, brooks and gigantic trees.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 119 Natural Reserve della Santissima Trinità della SelvaSanta Fiora town councilIt’s next to the ancient convent S.S.
Trinità of Selva, renown for the rare presence of white fi r and for the richness of the underwood.
Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 120 Monte Penna natural reserveCastell’Azzara town councilA group of heights where mount Civitella stands out at 1107 meters a.s.l. Area geologically interesting for the caves and bats which inhabit them and the karstifi cation phenomena. It offers many botanical and fauna species and millenary chestnut groves.
Poggio all’Olmo natural reserveCinigiano town councilNext to the Monticello Amiata town, it reaches 1,011 meters a.s.l. The botanic patrimony is extremely interesting, an ancient pear tree towers amongst chestnuts and beech woods and a fascinating legend is tied to it.
Natura
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The Amiata Museum system was set up by the Comunità Montana Amiata of Grosseto to valorize the network of thematic and environmental facilities spread throughout its territory. The System is a territorial container whose special museum identity is represented by the tight relationship between the environment and landscape values and the anthropological and historical-artistic elements of Monte Amiata. The Amiata Museum system is part of the Maremma Museums, the museum network of the Grosseto province and is a useful tool to valorize smaller isolated cultural areas which characterize the Amiata territory.
For information:Comunita Montana Amiata GrossetanoTel. 056496961 Fax: 0564967093sistemamusealeamiata@cm-amiata.gr.it
APT Grossetotel. 0564 462611 Fax: 0564 454606info@lamaremma.infoCastel del Pianotel. 0564 973510 fax: 05640973267infocasteldelpiano@lamaremma.info
Casa Museo of Monticello Amiata (Cinigiano)The museum spreads inside an ancient palace and the rooms accurately represent a late nineteenth century dwelling. The kitchen and the bedroom are the heart of the home, while on the fl oor below visitors can view the cattle shed, the warehouse and the old animal-hauled oil mill where work tools and agricultural equipment bare witness to ancient trades.
Santa Caterina Ethnographic Museum (Roccalbegna)The museum documents the work, traditions and ritualities tied to fi re and trees in Monte Amiata and especially summarizes the Focarazza feast: ancient ritual to honor Santa Caterina d’Alessandria which is held each year on November 24th, the most important local feast for the entire community.
Wine and Vine Museum in Montenero d’Orcia - (Casteldelpiano) The museum covers the main themes tied to the typical production of the territory, with special reference to wine, oil and chestnuts. Amongst the items worthy of note, a “pigiava”: an oak wood press dating back to 1700, complete with a hull, levers and original grills, used to press grapes up until 1910.
Monte Amiata Mercury Mines Museum (Santa Fiora) The museum is housed in the ancient Sforza-Cesarini palace and documents the mining experience which strongly infl uenced the
Amiata region between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The exhibition itinerary, with special reference to the areas of Santa Fiora and Castell’Azzara, highlights and illustrates the production of mercury.
David Lazzaretti Research Center (Arcidosso)The Exhibition Center has been dedicated to David Lazzaretti (1834-1878), “Amiata’s Prophet” who acted on behalf of God to accomplish an important reformative mission. The social and religious life of Lazzaretti represents a utopian time of great evocative power and participation in the historical background of the Amiata mountain region and more generally speaking in the history of the lower classes of post-unitary Italy.
Palazzo Nerucci art collection (Casteldelpiano)On the aristocratic fl oor of the sixteenth century Palazzo Nerucci there is a signifi cant group of works of art amongst which worthy of note are: the self portrait by Rosalba Carriera (1675-1757) and several canvases attributed to painters of the Nasini school. The same collection features a broad selection of the early works of maestro Edo Cei.
Giardino d’arte Besides Art Montegiovi (Casteldelpiano)Secluded in the small village of Montegiovi, the garden reveals hidden sculptures surrounded by vegetation and propelled towards the sky like propitiatiory totems in metal, cement and stone. It blends in well with nature. Softly shaped fi gures furnish the atelier of sculptor Piero Bonacina.
Fauna Park Visitors Center (Arcidosso) It was born as an educational pole of the Fauna Park and of the six natural reserves of Monte Amiata. The Center unwinds through fi ve halls set up with blow-ups, cartographies and mineral fi nds and its objective is to supply an overview of the Amiata Ecosystem stimulating the visitor to investigate the most interesting themes in-depth.
The path and galleries of Cornacchino (Castell’Azzara)The mine, which was part of a cinnabar fi eld already known to Etruscans, was opened around 1877 and closed in 1919. The path departs from Quercia Gobba and crosses a forest, approx. 500 mt. along the Fosso del Cornacchino gorge to reach the two mining galleries today restored and known as the Galleria Ritorta.
The Garden of Daniel Spoerri (Seggiano)An outdoor contemporary art museum featuring the most important twentieth century artists. Information 0564 950457
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