Nov 2014 ISSUE #2 BACKYARD TRAvEL

Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton,partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok

STYLISH & SECLUDEDLuxurious hideaways onAsia’s most idyllic islands

INSIDER’S BANGKOKBeyond tuk-tuks and temples, a local’s take on the city

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

Experience the beauty of remote Shan State

MAJESTIC MYANMAR

GET BENEATH THESURFACE OF ASIA

Rites and rituals of anuncharted Indonesian island

EXTRAORDINARY SUMBA

ASIAINSIDE

MAEVE NOLANGeneral Manager - Backyard Travel

RoADS LESSTRAVELLED WELCOME TO THE SECOND EDITION OF INSIDE ASIA! THIS

MONTH, WE GET BENEATH THE SURFACE OF SOME OF ASIA’S MOST UNIqUE DESTINATIONS, pROVIDING OUR OWN

LOCAL INSIGHT TO pAINT A MORE COMpLETE pICTURE OF THIS MULTI-FACETED REGION.

The core of Backyard Travel is to provide insider experiences that

delve deep into Asian heritage; to show the people and cultures

that make our Asian ‘backyard’ unique. In keeping with this ethos,

this month’s edition is for the traveler who has a taste for

veering off the well-trodden path, who wants to discover Asia’s hidden charms as well as the

most spectacular sights on the ‘roads less traveled’.

CoNTENT

Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton,partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok

STYLISH AND SECLUDEDAsia’s most lavish island hideaways08

04 Explore this intriguing Indonesian islandTHE TRIBES AND TOMBS OF SUMBA

26 An insider’s view on Japan’s beautifully preserved mountain town

TUCK’S TAKAYAMA

Halong’s lesser known neighbor seen from above

24 VIETNAM’S BAI TU LONG BAY

28 Travel Specialist ‘Hom’ explores the artistic side of Laos’ favorite town

THE CREATIVE SOUL OF LUANG pRABANG

Take a look at inspiring images entered into our competition30pHOTOGRApHY COMpETITION

14 Travel writer and Cambodia resident Lara Dunston on Battambang’s blossoming arts scene

CAMBODIA’S ARTISTIC SIDE

22 See the ‘City of Angels’ through local eyes

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BANGKOK

via two iconic, and unusual, forms of transport

DISCOVERING XIAN

12

JOURNEY INTO THE MOUNTAINSRemote beauty in Myanmar’s Shan State

18

18

Situated in the province of eaSt nuSa tenggara, the indoneSian iSland of Sumba lieS well off the beaten path, giving travelerS a chance to diScover the eSoteric riteS and ritualS of thiS unique iSland.

| 04 | INDoNESIA | BACKYARD TRAVEL

THE TRIBES AND ToMBS oF SUMBA ExpLoRE THE LITTLE-KNowN INDoNESIAN ISLAND oF SUMBA. UNCovER ITS FASCINATING TRIBAL CULTURE AND wANDER THE ExTRAoRDINARY MEGALITHIC ToMBS THAT DoT ITS STRIKING TERRAIN.

Situated in the province of eaSt nuSa tenggara, the indoneSian iSland of Sumba lieS well off the beaten path, giving travelerS a chance to diScover the eSoteric riteS and ritualS of thiS unique iSland.

An hour’s flight from Bali, Sumba offers stunning natural locations – undulating hills, verdant fields

and sublime beaches – alongside a rich and unique heritage. On our fully guided insider tour, travelers will learn all about the remarkable Marapu religion, which is practiced throughout the island. Believers build imposing megalithic tombs and bury their dead in extraordinarily elaborate ceremonies. These huge stone altars remain as monuments not only to local ancestors, but to one of the last surviving megalithic cultures on the planet.

The tour of Sumba begins in the village of Tarung, a tribal center within the region due to the well-preserved state of its tombs and its abundance of traditional dwellings. A guided tour is conducted through Tarung, allowing travelers to see the village tombs up close and learn about the history and

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Learn about the ancestral religion of Marapu, still in practice today

See some of the island’s extraordinary megalithic graves

observe Sumba’s unique tombstone-carving pro-cess

visit traditional villages with dwellings constructed sole-ly of bamboo and thatch

Interact with different lo-cal tribes and learn about their unique traditions

Relax on the beautiful beaches of western Sum-ba

Meet a foundation helping a local tribe survive in the modern world

Enjoy a guided look at the local market with the chance to pick up authentic ikat fabrics

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS

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Mandorak Beach, western Sumba

wainyapu village

meaning behind them. Travelers will also see the extraordinary workmanship that goes into making the bamboo and thatch dwellings of Tarung as they explore the village.

The tour continues to the Anakalang district, home to some impressive royal tombs. Here travelers will see a grave monument that took more than six months to carve, before heading to Umba Sawola Tomb, Sumba’s heaviest, weighing in at 70 tons. Legend has it that some 6,000 peo-ple worked on chiseling the rock out of the hillside before hauling it more than three kilometers to its current position.

Sumba is also famous for ikat, a colorful fabric-dyeing technique. Most of Sumba’s ikat is still produced the traditional way using natural dyes from local trees and leaves. Travelers will have the chance to purchase some of these beautiful textiles and other mementos and handicrafts made by local indigenous groups.

The tour also gives travelers the opportu-nity to learn how the Mandorak Founda-tion is helping protect the local Kodi tribe balance their ancient traditions with the realities of modern life. The foundation is helping build new roads, digging wells for clean water and teaching children Bahasa Indonesian so they can communicate with outsiders who don’t speak the Kodi dia-lect.

To this day the tribe continues to bury their dead in megalithic tombs. Accord-ing to anthropologists, the Kodi culture is the closest observed living culture to those of the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. In the Kodi village of wainyapu travelers will see many more incredible megalithic graves, and have the unique opportunity to observe the stone carving process, un-changed for centuries.

BACKYARD TRAVEL | INDoNESIA | 07 |

Royal Tomb, Anakalang

IF YoU’D LIKE To vISIT SUMBA, GET IN CoNTACT wITH oNE oUR BALI BASED TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

REMOTE LUXURY ISLAND HIDEAWAYS IN ASIA

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FROM FAR-FLUNG CORAL-FRINGED COVES IN VIETNAM, TO THAI RETREATS ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY pRIVATE pLANE, HERE’S THE LOW-DOWN ON SOME OF ASIA’S MOST IDYLLIC ISLAND ESCApES. AS FOR THE LUXURY ISLAND ACCOMMODATION THEY OFFER, THEY’RE AS SOpHISTICATED AS THEY ARE SECLUDED.

STYLISH ANDSECLUDED

Integer quam risus, lacinia vitae felis sed, pretium

BACKYARD TRAVEL | STYLISH AND SECLUDED | 09 |

Free from development and sporting virgin forest and stunning beaches, Cambodia’s Koh Rong is undoubtedly one of Southeast

Asia’s most heavenly island escapes. Surrounded by the softest sands imaginable and untouched coral reefs alive with schools of tropical fish, Koh Rong’s accommodation options are on the whole comfortable yet ‘rustic’. If you’re looking for some luxury in addition to seclusion, the adjacent Song Saa private Island Resort is ideal. This stunning resort covers two small islands connected by a wooden footbridge. Guests can choose between private pool villas located in lush rainforest and villas perched over the turquoise waters of the Thai Gulf. The property harmoniously blends into its tropical surroundings and is built with sustain-able materials.

KoH RoNG, CAMBoDIA

Located off the coast of the Indonesian island of Java, the gorgeous Karimun-jawa Islands are still relatively unknown

– a blessing if you’re looking for an isolat-ed island paradise. Incredibly photogenic, these islands offer some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in Asia. Luxury accom-modation is limited to just one five-star re-sort: the beautiful Kura Kura, which opens to breathtaking views of the ocean. The resort’s spacious villas capture this view through floor-to-ceiling windows; each has a private pool and poolside gazebo.

KARIMUNJAwA ISLANDS, INDoNESIA

Situated in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Kood is an unspoiled island of sublime beaches, lush jungle and crystal clear

waters. This idyllic isle is ideally suited to a romantic break or a family vacation and is home to arguably Thailand’s most luxurious resort, the Soneva Kiri. The property’s 27 eco-chic villas all come with private infinity pools, and guests arrive from Bangkok via a scenic flight on the resort’s private plane. Soneva Kiri even has its own outdoor theat-er, Cinema paradiso, screening movies un-derneath the stars.

KoH KooD, THAILAND

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BACKYARD TRAVEL | STYLISH AND SECLUDED | 11 |

Luxury resorts can sometimes be overly sleek and impersonal, but the 35 teak-wood and granite villas of the Six Sens-

es Con Dao embrace guests in a warm, rustic-chic ambience. All come with private pools and are set amongst lush gardens, with Con Dao’s emerald-colored hills provid-ing a stunning backdrop. Con Dao itself can be reached via a 45-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. In addition to offering pristine, near-deserted beaches, 80% of the archi-pelago is National park, ensuring the island remains protected – and unspoiled – into the future.

CoN DAo, vIETNAM

Situated off Myanmar’s Andaman coast, the Myeik Archipelago is a col-lection of more than 800 mostly un-

inhabited islands. Also known as the Mer-gui Archipelago, the islands here conceal postcard-perfect lagoons and an astound-ing diversity of natural marine life. Accom-modation is limited in this largely undevel-oped part of the world, so the best way of experiencing it is from the water. Setting sail aboard a luxury teak yacht allows you to take a comprehensive tour of the ar-chipelago, cruising through pristine waters past deserted islands, stopping to snorkel or kayak when the mood strikes.

MYEIK ARCHIpELAGo, MYANMAR

IF YoU FANCY A DREAM BREAK oN oNE oF THESE ISLAND pARADISES THEN CoNTACT oUR ASIA BASED TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

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A UNIqUE WAY TO DISCOVER XIAN

ExpLoRING THE UNESCo woRLD HERITAGE CITY THE UNCoNvENTIoNAL wAY

he demonstrates the great skill required to create weapons using ancient methods.

Some locals in the region still live in cave dwellings built intothe weather-beaten rocks of xian’s rough-hewn land-scape. As part of this tour travelers will be welcomed into a local cave house to enjoy a homemade dinner with the host family before spending the night in one of these atmospheric dwellings.

The next day the adven-ture continues with a trip in a 1960s-style jeep to one of the largest archaeological discoveries in world history: the extraordinary Terracotta Army. Built to protect theEmperor Qin Shi in the after

life, the site is explained via guided tour, covering all threepits of warriors. After that,visitors head to the onsite museum where two remark-able bronze chariots are housed alongside other in-triguing historical artefacts.

This unique tour finishes with a visit to a local xian winery for a spot of wine tasting and some lunch, before wrapping up at a 1,500-year-old Bud-dhist pagoda hidden deep in the forest.

As the former Silk Road hub, and with UNESCo world Heritage status of sites such as the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor and the majestic and mysterious Ter-racotta Army, xian is often considered the birthplace of Chinese civilization.

As a company dedicated to offering insider experiences, Backyard Travel thought to provide an unconvention-al tour of the city using two iconic modes of transport. Instead of visiting xian’s ex-traordinary sites alongside the usual tour buses and minivans, it’s far more fun to whip through the ancient city and surrounding region in a vintage sidecar or a 1960s-style jeep.

This special two-day tour starts with a journey into xian’s beautiful countryside, discovering the Loess pla-teau from the unique per-spective of a vintage sidecar. Snug in the sidecar, travelers buzz through the plateau’s meandering roads and iconic scenery before stopping at a local blacksmith to see tradi-tional weapons being made. A true specialist of the craft,

BACKYARD TRAVEL | xIAN | 13 |

Traditional cave dwelling, ‘Loess plateau’, xian

The Terracotta warriors, xian

IF YoU’RE INTERESTED IN DISCovERING AND ToURING xIAN THEN CoNTACT oUR BEIJING BASED TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

In recent years the charming colonial city of Battambang in Northeast Cambodia has blossomed into an arts hub as graduates

from its excellent arts school have collabo-rated to set up art galleries and collectives and organize group shows and arts events.

Battambang was the birthplace of the coun-try’s beloved Golden Age singer Ros Serey-sothea, named ‘the Golden voice’, while Cam-bodia’s legendary crooner Sinn Sisamouth sang a melancholic song about Battambang, ensuring he – and the city – would always have a special place in people’s hearts. As would music, culture and the arts.

The rural city experienced Cambodia’s cul-tural renaissance of the 1960s and 1970s, dubbed the Golden Age, which gave rise to a unique brand of Khmer Rock and Roll and the New Khmer Architecture movement. Howev-er, things came to a grinding halt during the tragic pol pot years when Cambodians were confined to hard labour in the rice fields and many of the artists and intellectuals were executed.

THE BLOSSOMING ARTSSCENE OF BATTAMBANG

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A GUEST ARTICLE ON THE ENGAGING ARTS SCENE IN THE CAMBODIAN CITY OF BATTAMBANG

phare ponleau Selpak Circus

Battambang, Cambodia

BY LARA DUNSTON OF GRANTOURISMOTRAVELS.COM

It wasn’t until the phare ponleau Selpak arts school was established in 1994 by a group of former refugees that a cul-tural revival began. Cambodia’s largest performing and visual arts school, phare ponleau Selpak, means ‘brightness of the arts’. It was the next generation of artists, most born in the 1980s and 1990s, who graduated from the school who have gone on to do interesting things.

Graduate Mao Soviet and his wife phin, both artists, own Make Maek gallery on Street 2½, which hosts regular exhibi-tions and events and offers an artist-in-residence programme. Young artists run Sammaki Gallery, a community arts space supported by the Cambodian Children’s Trust (CCT), which has fre-quent art shows and workshops, as well as a resource center and work space.

Sammaki is also home to Battambang’s first barista school, sponsored by Aus-tralia’s vittoria Coffee, which provided funding for CCT’s sleek Jaan Bai res-taurant, bar and gallery on Street 2. A social enterprise established to provide training and employment for disadvan-taged youths, Jaan Bai was developed under the guidance of culinary luminary Chef David Thompson of Nahm Bang-kok, whose involvement has ensured it’s delivering some the best food and drinks in Battambang. The restaurant features regular exhibitions of art on its walls; all available for purchase. The vibrant mural that enlivens the ex-terior of Jaan Bai was painted by a handful of young Battambang artists, including Chov Theanly, who painted the portrait of Golden Age great, Ros Sereysothea; Long Kosal created ‘The Scream’;

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“THE RURAL CITY EXpERIENCED CAMBODIA’S CULTURAL RENAISSANCE OF THE 1960S AND 1970S, DUBBED THE GOLDEN AGE...“

Nhem pearun painted the ‘Face with Bird’; ot veasana was responsible for the wild mural on the first floor exte-rior that you’ll have to cross the road to appreciate; while Khchao Touch was responsible for the ‘Morning Sun’.

Khchao Touch and her curator husband Darren Swallow own Lotus Gallery and Bar (53, Street 2½) which has a cafe-cum-bar downstairs and a contempo-rary art gallery upstairs hosting regular exhibitions. on weekends Lotus hosts film screenings, poetry nights, avant-garde sound events, performance art, DJ nights, and live music that draw an interesting mix of locals, expats and tourists.

To learn more about Battambang’s en-gaging arts scene, join Tha and Jam of Battambang Bike (60 Street 2½), right by Make Maek, on an art and ar-chitecture themed bike tour. But to see where the seeds were planted visit phare ponleau Selpak for a behind the scenes tour and a circus show under their Battambang big top. It’s not only one of the highlights of a visit to Bat-tambang, but could be a highlight of your Cambodia trip.

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Mural outside Jaan Bai Restaurant, Battambang

‘Golden Age’ singers Ros Sereysothea and Sinn Sisamouth

IF YoU woULD LIKE To DISCovER BATTAMBANG’S ARTISTIC SIDE THEN CoNTACT oUR CAMBoDIA BASED TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

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A JoURNEY INTo THE MOUNTAINSREvELING IN THE BEAUTY oF MYANMAR’S SHAN STATE

MYANMAR TRAVEL SpECIALIST WAI LIN TRAVERSES MYANMAR’S STRIKING SHAN STATE, A REGION REpLETE WITH NATURAL BEAUTY AND COLORED IN RICH HERITAGE.

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I always recommend tours of Shan State to travelers coming to Myanmar. This remote state is situated to the east of Mandalay,

and is characterized by stunning highland scenery and fascinating local culture.

A good place to start a tour of the region is pyin oo Lwin, a small town about two hours from Mandalay by car. The town is over 1,000 meters above sea level, making it con-siderably cooler than Mandalay, and provid-ing a refreshing break from the heat of the lowlands. The British were quickly clued into this fact during colonial rule and they estab-lished pyin oo Lwin as the country’s sum-mer capital specifically to escape the heat. This former British hill station was also home to the Indian Army at that time and many Indians and Nepalese (who were also part of the Indian army), stayed after Myanmar gained independence in 1948. Today, the town’s diversity of ethnicities can still clearly be seen.

pyin oo Lwin is replete with holdovers of its colonial past, including the purcell Clock Tower, the All Saints Anglican Church and the many beautiful colonial houses that line its streets. You can discover these beauti-ful buildings on a traditional horse and car-riage tour that also takes you to the Na-tional Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens. Almost 100 years old, the gardens were modeled on Kew Gardens in London and are a popular

place for locals to relax. They’re full of plant and flower species from around the world. with its lush green lawns you really could be forgiven for thinking you were in England!

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purcell Clock Tower, pyin oo Lwin

Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens, pyin oo Lwin

Next, I recommend one of the most sce-nic journey’s in Asia, let alone Myanmar: the six-hour train to Hsipaw. After leaving pyin oo Lwin you’ll climb up through the hills be-fore passing over the spectacular Gokteik viaduct, the highlight of the journey. This amazing structure was built in 1901 and was the longest bridge in the whole of the British Empire at the time it was constructed. It’s over 100 meters high and the views across are spectacular, with the 300-meter-deep gorge below and the impressive Shan mountains in the background.

Hsipaw is a pleasant town situated on the banks of the Dokhtawady River and is a per-fect place to use as a base for explorations around Shan’s countryside. You can trek through local villages and get your guide to in-troduce you to indigenous hill tribes, such as the palaung and the padaung, known for their distinctive copper neck rings.

“YoUR GUIDE wILL INTRoDUCE YoU To DIFFERENT INDIGENoUS TRIBES”

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Gokteik viaduct, Shan State

Finally, I suggest ending your tour of the countryside with a local boat ride down the Dokhtawady River before climbing to the top of Nine Buddha Hill on the outskirts of Hsi-paw. Here you’re treated to the spectacular site of the sun setting over the town with the Dokhtawady River in the background.

IF YoU’D LIKE To vISIT MYANMAR’S BEAUTIFUL SHAN STATE THEN GET IN CoNTACT wITH YANGoN BASED ExpERT wAI LIN HERE

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GOLDEN pALACES, FLOATING MARKETS AND EMERALD BUDDHAS – BANGKOK’S MOST FAMOUS DRAW CARDS NEVER LOSE THEIR AppEAL. BUT HOW DO LOCALS ENJOY LIFE IN THEIR HOME CITY? BANGKOK RESIDENT AND BACKYARD TRAVEL MARKETING MANAGER CHRISTIAN SUTTON TELLS US HOW HE ENJOYS LIFE IN THE ‘CITY OF ANGELS’.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE To BANGKoK

A trip to Bangkok isn’t complete with-out a visit to Chatuchak weekend Market; I love how it brings together

an array of vendors selling all sorts, from souvenirs to antiques. Thailand’s largest market can get notoriously busy and hot towards the middle of the day however, so for a calmer and cooler experience I like to head outside the confines of the market where a less hectic atmosphere awaits.

on the corner of Kamphaeng phet Road sits ‘or Tor Kor’, a series of vintage shops filled with retro items and furniture. This area is home to some of Bangkok’s most talented and creative individuals. After I’m done with all the shops there I like to head to Chatuchak park to enjoy some green space. Here you can hire bikes and explore the park’s different areas, discovering the unique sculptures dotted around. If you’re coming with kids you may want to pop into the Bangkok Butterfly Garden to let them get a closer look at some of Thailand’s pret-tiest butterfly species.

Bangkok’s traffic is notorious, and though it might not always live up to its terrible repu-tation, I still prefer to ride above it on the Skytrain. Traveling above the traffic in clean, air-conditioned carriages means you can get across the city super-fast. You are also treated to some great views. My daily com-mute on the Skytrain encompasses some sightseeing as the train passes the exclusive Royal Bangkok Sports Club and the calm, green spaces of Lumphini park.

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Fruit for sale, Bangkok

Lumphini park, Bangkok

Bangkok undoubtedly holds the crown for the best street food in Thailand. Mobile kitchens are seen everywhere throughout the city, but my personal recommendations for street food are Chinatown, for great barbeque pork steamed buns, Sukhumvit Soi 38, which is teeming with vendors cater-ing for a range of palates, and Soi Ari. Soi Ari, only ten minutes from Siam on the BTS, is not often frequented by tourists, meaning that the food on offer caters for local taste buds. I love trying the wonderful Isaan food, such as som tum (papaya salad) and laab (minced pork) which both go very well with a cold Leo beer!

Just across the road from the shoppers’ paradise of Siam, Scala Cinema is one of my favorite haunts. Here you can catch the latest blockbuster or an independent film at a bargain ticket price. The art deco building has spectacular vaulted ceilings and huge chandeliers – the venue itself is worth the admission fee. If you do have time to catch a movie don’t forget to stand for the Thai Royal Anthem, played before the start of each film!

when I want a break from Bangkok’s urban scene, I head to the protected area of phra

pradaeng, also known as the ‘Green Lung’. High-rise development is restricted here leaving lush greenery and jungle. You can snake around the area along raised paths, observing local life and nature, and if you come at the weekend you can enjoy the Ta-lad Bang Nam phueng floating market.

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Scala Cinema, Bangkok

Chinatown, Bangkok

IF YoU’RE pLANNING A TRIp To BANGKoK CoNTACT oUR THAILAND TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

BAI TU LoNG BAY

ExpLoRE THE LIMESToNE ISLANDS, HIDDEN LAGooNS AND MYSTERIoUS CAvES oF vIETNAM’S UNDISCovERED

THE LESS FAMOUS COUSIN OF NEIGHBORING HALONG BAY, THE STUNNING ROCK FORMATIONS AND CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS OF BAI TU LONG BAY CAN

NOW BE SEEN FROM THE AIR ON A SpECTACULAR NEW SEApLANE FLIGHT.

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very few places can match the majesty and natural beauty of Bai Tu Long Bay, and cruising this sublime region on board a beautiful vietnamese junk makes for a very special vacation. Until recently, the only way to reach Bai Tu Long Bay was to take the three-hour-plus overland journey from Hanoi, but now this beauti-ful part of the world can also be reached by scenic flight. It not only saves time, but also offers stunning views over Halong Bay en route.

This memorable journey takes about 45 minutes and the views are truly stunning, taking in some of vietnam’s most iconic scenery. From the air you’ll be able to see parts of this UNESCo world Heritage site not previously open to visitors.The perfect way to travel, Halong Bay

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Luxury junk, Halong Bay

IF YoU woULD LIKE To ExpERIENCE BAI TU LoNG BAY AND THE woNDERFUL SCENIC FLIGHT GET IN ToUCH wITH oUR HANoI BASED TRAvEL SpECIALISTS HERE

once landed – on the water – the best way of exploring the bay is onboard a traditional vietnamese junk. These luxuri-ous junks have private cabins, a sundeck and a dining area where you can enjoy fresh seafood throughout your journey. It’s the perfect way to spend a few days cruising the bay.

Sailing into picturesque Bai Tu Long Bay, you’ll see thousands of extraordinary is-lands and limestone formations. You may want to explore the pristine waters with the junk’s own kayak, or if you prefer you can just enjoy a refreshing dip, or simply admire the spectacular scenery from the deck, cold drink in hand.

our tours of Bai Tu Long Bay finish by dis-covering Cong Dam which is known for its impossibly clear waters. You’ll be served a BBQ lunch on a local beach before tak-ing a row boat out to the traditional float-ing fishing village of Cong Dam. Here you’ll meet the locals and learn about the fish-ing way of life.

TUCK’S

TAKAYAMA

“I started the trip on the famous shin-kansen (‘bullet train’) from Kyoto to Nagoya, before changing on to the lo-cal service to Takayama.

I never get bored of walking around the streets of Takayama and advise any-one who does to check out the quar-ter of old private houses, as it feels like you’re on the set of a Japanese peri-od drama. It’s the closest we can come to experiencing ancient times here.

Throughout history, the Takayama re-gion has been renowned for producing some of Japan’s most skilled carpen-ters, many of whom worked on Kyoto’s Imperial palace and the intricate tem-ples of Nara. You can feel and touch the love those skilled carpenters put into their work. Each time I visit I fall more in love with this version of old Japan.

Takayama is especially great to visit in spring and autumn when the Matsuri Festival takes place, heralding all sorts of colorful celebrations. Many of the locals take part in these, donning the appropriate costume for the occasion. In spring the festival is traditionally

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Takayama is a throwback to a bygone era in Japan of stout tradition laden with history

and culture. Undoubtedly one of Japan’s most beautifully preserved cities; it’s also bit of hidden gem, off the regular tourist trail. It’s also one of our Japan Travel Specialist Tuck’s favorite places in Japan. Here she recounts her most recent trip, which includes a visit to the nearby historic village of Shirakawa.

Matsuri Festival, Takayama

held to pray for a good harvest and in au-tumn the festival is for giving thanks.

on one particular visit I also decided to take a day trip to Shirakawa by bus from Takay-ama. The route is really beautiful as the bus travels on a winding road through lots of tunnels, and through stunning mountain terrain. If you are ever lucky enough to take this trip, try your best to get a window seat to fully appreciate the view!

Shirakawa is a very traditional style village with UNESCo world Heritage status due to its well-preserved landmarks – espe-cially the Edo period Minka homes. These striking houses are designed with a distinc-tive inverted thatched U-shaped roof. They have turned the area into a kind of real-life open-air museum.

The village is encircled by tall, dramatic peaks and there’s such a strong feeling of being connected to nature that I felt cut off from the rest of Japan. winter can also be a special time in Shirakawa. This is when the Gassho Zukuri House roofs become covered in snow, creating a magical scene straight out of a fairytale.”

BACKYARD TRAVEL | TUCK’S TAKAYAMA | 27 |

Shirakawa vilage

Sake Brewery Takayama

IF YoU woULD LIKE To ExpERIENCE A TAKAYAMA ToUR, oR ANY oTHER IDYLLIC JApANESE DESTINATIoNS, GET IN ToUCH wITH oUR JApAN TRAvEL SpECIALIST TUCK HERE

Luang prabang translates literally as ‘Royal Buddha Image’ – a fitting title, as this UNESCo world Heritage city on

the banks of the Mekong River is famous for its beautifully preserved temples. I’ve visit-ed many times to see these extraordinary structures and experience Buddhist cer-emonies first-hand, but what I didn’t know too much about was the city’s historical and artistic sides. So, on my last trip, I decided to delve into those somewhat unknown as-pects of the city.

I started my cultural exploration at the former Royal palace which now serves as the National Museum. Here I learnt about Laos’ rich history and culture through the many fascinating exhibits on display. Next, I wandered down one of the prettiest lanes in Luang prabang to the SaaiFone Con-temporary Gallery. There, you’ll find some truly inspiring depictions of Luang prabang and the surrounding region, painted by ac-claimed Lao-Canadian artist Thep Thavon-souk.

After looking at all the wonderful paint-ings in detail I headed into Caruso Lao, a workshop that produces beautifully hand-crafted silk and hand-carved wood, before stopping for a scenic lunch at Big Tree Café. The café sits on the banks of the Mekong River and also houses an art gallery fea-turing works by the famous photographer and filmmaker Adri Berger, who focuses his work on Southeast Asia.

After lunch, my artistic tour of Luang pra-bang continued with a visit to the pavil-lon du Jade, a beautifully restored French building, home to the private collection of patrice Bleton, connoisseur of Asian art and antiques.

DISCOVER THE CREATIVE SOUL OF LAID-BACK

LUANG pRABANGoUR LAoS-BASED TRAvEL SpECIALIST HoM GIvES AN ARTISTIC ovERvIEw oF LAoS’ SpIRITUAL CApITAL, UNCovERING ITS TALENTED ARTISTS AND CApTIvATING CULTURE.

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National Museum, Luang prabang

Luang prabang.

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In the afternoon I moved on to the Traditional Art & Ethnology Center, a non-profit museum dedicated to the preservation of the arts and lifestyles of Laos’ many hill tribes. It was here I got some insight into the different traditions and characteristics of the many indigenous tribes with whom I share my country.

Up next: project Space, a non-profit multi-functional facility which features exhibits and events by local and international artists. The building has a wonderful rooftop terrace, per-fect for relaxing with a drink and enjoyingthe sunset over beautiful Luang prabang.

I ended my enlightening cultural tour of Lu-ang prabang with an evening performance at the Royal Ballet Theatre. The theater opened in 2002 to preserve Lao heritage and this lively show included Lao folk and tribal dances – a wonderful way to end my journey.

Mosaic art, Luang prabang

IF YoU wANT To DISCovER LUANG pRABANG’S CREATIvE SoUL GET IN CoNTACT wITH oUR LAoS BASED TRAvEL SpECIALIST HoM HERE

Alamsyah Rauf took this great photograph of farmer drying her rice in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

COMpETITION THIS YEAR wE RAN A pHoToGRApHY CoMpETITIoN wHERE ENTRANTS HAD THE CHANCE To wIN THE INCREDIBLE pRIZE oF AN $8,000 DREAM TRIp IN ASIA. wE ASKED FoR INSpIRING pHoToGRApHS TAKEN oF YoUR owN vILLAGE, TowN oR CITY So wE CAN GET A TASTE oF wHAT LIFE IS LIKE IN YoUR vERY owN ‘BACKYARD’.

we’ve had some superb photographs submitted to us from all around the world. Many of these wonderful entries have been from Asia and here is a small selection of our favorites, all taken in our ‘Backyard’.

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Bangkok has a sizeable Chinese community and Andy Brown took this photo of two men concentrating hard on their checkers strategy in the Surasak area of the city.

In pyae Sone oo’s lovely photograph young monk novices look out through the windows of an ancient monas-tery in Bagan, Myanmar (Burma).

ALL THE woNDERFUL pHoToGRApHS FRoM ASIA AND THRoUGHoUT THE woRLD CAN BE vIEwED AND voTED oN IN oUR GALLERY HERE

voTING ENDS oN 14TH DECEMBER 2014, AND THE pHoToGRApHS wITH THE 10 MoST voTES GoING INTo A FINAL GRoUp FRoM wHICH THE wINNER wILL BE CHoSEN.

A splash of color. Manoj Bishwas took this picture at Chhath puja Festival in Bihar, India. The festival is dedicated to the Hindu Sun God Surya.

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Nov 2014 ISSUE # 2 BACKYARD TRAvELIdeas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton, partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok.

ASIAIS OUR BACKYARDTHE pHILOSOpHY AT BACKYARD TRAVEL IS TO EXpERIENCE A COUNTRY AS THE LOCAL pEOpLE SEE IT, AS WE SEE IT.

LET US GUIDE YOU AND LIGHT YOUR OWN pASSION FOR EXpLORATION WITH OUR INSIDER TOURS AND UNIqUE TRIpS THAT OFFER EXpERIENCES THAT FEW ARE FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO WITNESS.

WANT TO EXpLORE THIS ASIA? STEp INTO OUR BACKYARD.

vietnam: vietnam@backyardtravel.com

Thailand: thailand@backyardtravel.com

Laos: laos@backyardtravel.com

Cambodia: cambodia@backyardtravel.com

Indonesia: indonesia@backyardtravel.com

Myanmar: myanmar@backyardtravel.com

Japan: japan@backyardtravel.com

China: china@backyardtravel.com

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EMAIL: INFO@BACKYARDTRAVEL.COMwe will get back to you within 24 business hours