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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. 875 875 OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alan Forbes, Albert Ambrosio, Anna Abdelnoor, Antonie Vervenne B Barbara Swain C Carol Dyer, Casper Jensen, Celia Kawai D Daniel Druce, Danny Walden, David Hixson, Dorothy Melander-Dayton E Erwan Lamberoy, Esteban Balderrama, Ester de Koning, Evana Stanonik, Evelyne Berne F Fernando Garcia, Fernando Garcia Lopez, Fernando Romero, Freek De Smedt G Grant Murfett, Guillermo Moreno I Irving Levinson J Jacqueline Garcia, Jeff Jones, Jerry Peek, Jose Lassalle, Joseph Porter, Juliana Secchi K Kathy Bowman L Luigi Zeccardo M Manuela Arigoni, Marcos Arbesu, Marianne Eberhardt, Marissa Castro, Megan Norris P Patricia Kubala, Pedro Gamez, Peter Straus, Phil Gillette, Philip Brunelle R Rachel Van Ness, Ramon Antonijoan, Ricardo Abuauad, Ricardo Balderrama, Richard Tamkin, Roland Bourque, Romey Glenn, Ruben Lelivelt S Shane Malyon, Simon Barr, Stephan Hipp, Steve Anderson, Steve Douglas T Thomas Shearer V Veronica Ciambra, Virginia Ferguson-Sharp Y Yossi Margoninsky AUTHOR THANKS John Noble Extra special thanks to Julien Pardinilla, Gina Machorro, Fausto Jasso, Alvin Starkman, los Velasco and Rebecca Bailey. Kate Armstrong Muchas gracias to enthusiastic travelers, and generous folks who share their passion of Mexico with me, especially Lori Jones in San Luis Potosí and Sally Wilson and Ernesto de la Vega in Queretaro. My love, as always, to Chris Nelson, this time for sharing the driving and watery adventures. A big thanks to Clifton Wilkinson for the fabulous opportunity, fellow authors and the in-house team. Stuart Butler First and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, for putting up with my ex- tended periods away whilst working on this project and coping so admirably with two small children on her own. And, thank you to Jake and Grace for also putting up with their daddy disappearing off again. In Mexico thank you to the many hoteliers, other travelers, restaurant owners and random people on the bus who knowingly, or unknowingly, helped out. Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

875875

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alan Forbes, Albert Ambrosio, Anna Abdelnoor, Antonie Vervenne B Barbara Swain C Carol Dyer, Casper Jensen, Celia Kawai D Daniel Druce, Danny Walden, David Hixson, Dorothy Melander-Dayton E Erwan Lamberoy, Esteban Balderrama, Ester de Koning, Evana Stanonik, Evelyne Berne F Fernando Garcia, Fernando Garcia Lopez, Fernando Romero, Freek De Smedt G Grant Murfett, Guillermo Moreno I Irving Levinson J Jacqueline Garcia, Jeff Jones, Jerry Peek, Jose Lassalle, Joseph Porter, Juliana Secchi K Kathy Bowman L Luigi Zeccardo M Manuela Arigoni, Marcos Arbesu, Marianne Eberhardt, Marissa Castro, Megan Norris P Patricia Kubala, Pedro Gamez, Peter Straus, Phil Gillette, Philip Brunelle R Rachel Van Ness, Ramon Antonijoan, Ricardo Abuauad, Ricardo Balderrama, Richard Tamkin, Roland Bourque, Romey Glenn, Ruben Lelivelt S Shane Malyon, Simon Barr, Stephan Hipp, Steve Anderson, Steve Douglas T Thomas Shearer V Veronica Ciambra, Virginia Ferguson-Sharp Y Yossi Margoninsky

AUTHOR THANKSJohn Noble Extra special thanks to Julien Pardinilla, Gina Machorro, Fausto Jasso, Alvin Starkman, los Velasco and Rebecca Bailey.

Kate ArmstrongMuchas gracias to enthusiastic travelers, and generous folks who share their passion of Mexico with me, especially Lori Jones in San Luis Potosí and Sally Wilson and Ernesto de la Vega in Queretaro. My love, as always, to Chris Nelson, this time for sharing the driving and watery adventures. A big thanks to Clifton Wilkinson for the fabulous opportunity, fellow authors and the in-house team.

Stuart ButlerFirst and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, for putting up with my ex-tended periods away whilst working on this project and coping so admirably with two small children on her own. And, thank you to Jake and Grace for also putting up with their daddy disappearing off again. In Mexico thank you to the many hoteliers, other travelers, restaurant owners and random people on the bus who knowingly, or unknowingly, helped out.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

876

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

John HechtThanks to the countless number of good people in the Yucatán who helped make this wonderful journey so precious. Special grat-itude goes out to commissioning editor Cliff Wilkinson, LP co-author Lucas Vidgen, the book’s previous authors, Yurij Gabassi, Indira Gallegos and my wife, Lau, for looking after La Milanesa.

Anna KaminskiI would like to thank Cliff for entrusting me with these chapters, and my fellow scribes – John Noble, Josephine Quintero, Andy Sym-ington, John Hecht, Brendan Sainsbury, Lucas Vidgen, Phillip Tang, Tom Masters, Kate Armstrong and Stuart Butler – for their detailed and well-thought-out input when I was putting my chapters together. From past travels in Mexico, I’d like to thank E.C. Bell in San Miguel, Ricardo in Sayulita, Chey in Tijua-na, John and Christina in Nayarit, Enrique on the Copper Canyon train, Gustavo in Mexico City, Sophie and Pete in Guadalajara, Cristian in Palenque and many more who introduced me to the many facets of this remarkable country.

Tom MastersMany thanks to Rosemary Masters, who joined me for much of my research trip and was always great company, patient, uncom-plaining and unfazed, even when required to go zip-lining down a canyon at rather short notice. Thanks also to the hoteliers and res-taurateurs who were so generous with time and information, especially to Alberto & Fran-cia at the Hotel & Restaurant Jade in Cero-cahui, who were so kind to us when illness unexpectedly joined us on the road.

Josephine QuinteroI would like to thank all the helpful folk at the various tourist information offices, as well as Sally Harrison, who provided a valuable base in La Paz, as well as invaluable company. Thanks too to destination editor Cliff Wilkin-son and to all those involved in the title from the Lonely Planet offices, as well as to all my Mexican Quintero family, particularly Linda Sinclair who joined me on the road trip.

Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, taxi driv-ers, tourist info volunteers, tortilla-makers, mariachis and voladores who helped me

and/or answered copious questions during my research. Special thanks to Eusebio for his guiding skills on Volcán Paricutín and Flor-encio for showing me the wonders of Comala and Volcán de Fuego.

Andy SymingtonVarious random bus and taxi drivers provided invaluable company and information. Thanks are also owed for various helpful acts to Luis Gutiérrez, Eugenia Michel Gómez, Yazmin Casillas, Verónica Bello Damíán, Flor Anaya and Ginna Abud. It would be difficult to be away so much without the help of people like Eduardo Cuadrado Diago and José Eliseo Vázquez González; my family also offers constant support. Particular thanks go to Jorge Villarroel and José Vicente Revilla García for a great dossier on the Jalisco and Nayarit coasts.

Phillip TangGracias to the Mexicans who shared their knowledge. Merci to Géraldine Galvaing, Fiona Ross, Wendy Risteska, Alberto Ramírez Romero, Jocsan L Alfaro, and Armando Palma for DF; thanks to Monica Gomez in Pachuca; gracias Ernesto A Alanís for Valle de Bravo and Cuernavaca; salud Manuel Aveleyra García for DF and Cuernavaca. Thanks for virtual support from Lisa N’paisan, Vek Lewis, Jack Kennerley, Anna Glayzer, Waimei Lee, and Venus Vamp. In loving memory of Cecelia Cataño Carrillo.

Lucas VidgenThanks first and foremost to the Mexicans for making such an enjoyable country to travel and work in. Specifically, Andres and Sylvia were a huge help in San Cristobál and the Campeche section wouldn’t have been the same without Alonso Escobar and his compadre César. And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Teresa for being there, and being there when I got back.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Folk art for sale in San Miguel de Allende; Macduff Everton/Corbis ©

Chichén Itzá illustration pp324–5 by Michael Weldon.

87 7BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 15th edition of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook was researched and written by John Noble, Kate Armstrong, Stuart Butler, John Hecht, Anna Kaminski, Tom Masters, Josephine Quintero, Brendan Sainsbury, Andy Symington, Phillip Tang and Lucas Vid-gen. The essay ‘The Mexican Kitchen’ was written by

Mauricio Velázquez de León. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Clifton WilkinsonProduct Editors Vicky Smith, Bruce EvansSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Wendy WrightAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Michelle Bennett, Bridget Blair, Carly Hall, Victoria

Harrison, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, Ross Taylor, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, David Kemp, Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Paul Harding, Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews, Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Angela Tinson

878 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAcapulco 562-74, 564-5,

566, 570-1, 19accommodations 567-9activities 565-7drinking 569, 571-2emergencies 572entertainment 572events 567festivals & events 567food 569medical services 572nightlife 569, 571-2 shopping 572sights 562-5tourist information 572travel to/from 572-3travel within 573-4

accommodations 846-7, see also individual locations

language 865-6Aconchi 769activities 847, see also

individual activitiesAcuario Inbursa 24adventure parks

Areponápuchi 755Parque de Aventura

Barrancas del Cobre 756

adventure toursÁlamos 772Creel 758Durango 786

Aguascalientes 673, 675-8, 674

Aguascalientes state 673-678

air travel 860-1Ajijic 604-5Akumal 284-6Álamos 771-4

altitude sickness 850Amatenango del Valle 373Amatitán 601amusement parks

All Ritmo 259La Feria 91Yucatán Peninsula 274

Angahuan 635Angangueo 623Angel of Independence

84, 11animals 838-40anthropological museums

Museo de Antropología (Córdoba) 228

Museo de Antropología (Xalapa) 218

Museo de Antropología e História (Toluca) 196

Museo del Instituto Nacional de Antro-pología e Historia (Ensenada) 710

Museo Nacional de Antropología (Mexico City) 86-7

Museo Regional de Antropología (Villahermosa) 415

Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia (La Paz) 727

Museo Regional Huasteco Joaquín Meade 690

antojitos 830-1aquariums

Acuario de Veracruz 208Acuario Inbursa 24, 91Acuario Mazatlán 495Centro Mexicano de la

Tortuga 476archaeological museums

Gran Museo del Mundo Maya 301

Museo Arqueológico (Mazatlán) 493-5

Museo Arqueológico de Campeche 336-7

Museo Arqueológico de Comitán 400

Museo Arqueológico de la Costa Grande 550

Museo Arqueológico del Soconusco 409

Museo de Arte Prehispánico Carlos Pellicer 177-8

Museo de la Cultura Maya 298

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca 426

Museo del Sitio 149Museo Maya de Cancún

255-8Santa Elena Museum 314

archaeological sites 48-53, 51

Alta Vista Petroglyphs 512-13

Atzompa 451-2Aztec Temples

(Malinalco) 201Balamkú 343Becán 344-5, 340Bonampak 390-1, 393-4,

393Cacaxtla 171-3Calakmul 343-4Cañada de la Virgen 672Cantona 174Chiapa de Corzo 356Chicanná 344Chichén Itzá 15, 322-8,

324-5, 362, 15, 48, 324, 325

Chinkultic 404Chula Zona Arqueológica

163-4Cobá Ruins 291-2Comalcalco 416Dzibanché 300Dzibilchaltún 318-19Edzná 339-42Ek’ Balam 331-2El Caracol 324, 327, 324,

324

El Cedral 280-1El Tajín 240-2, 241Grutas de Loltún 316Guiengola 488Hormiguero 346Iglesia Vieja 406Izapa 412-13Kabah 314-15Kinich-Kakmó 321Kinichná 300Kohunlich 300La Campana 609La Quemada 699 La Venta 416Labná 315-16Mitla 448-9Monte Albán 443-5Oxkintok 320La Venta 416Palenque 381-4, 382, 36-7Paquimé 784Parque Eco-Arqueológico

Copalita 482Plan de Ayutla 392-3Quiahuiztlán 244Río Bec 346Ruinas de Mayapán 316-17San Gervasio Ruins 281San Miguelito 258-9Sayil 315Sierra de San Francisco

719-20Soledad de Maciel 560-1Templo Mayor 67Tenam Puente 403Teotihuacán 146-50Tingambato 634-5Toniná 378-9Tula 144-6Tulum 286-8, 287, 288-9,

35, 50Tzintzuntzan 631Uxmal 310-13, 312, 26Xlapak 315Xochicalco 186Xochitécatl 171-3

879IN

DEX A

-B Xpuhil 345Yagul 447-8Yaxchilán 390-1, 396-7,

396Yohualichán 176Zempoala 216Zona Arqueológica

Cuicuilco 97Zona Arqueológica El

Rey 259architecture 649, 821-2area codes 855Areponápuchi 755-6Arizpe 769art 428art galleries, 27-8, see also

anthropological mu-seums, archaeological museums, cultural centers, museums

Arte de Oaxaca 428Casa Sebastián 781Casa-Taller Orozco 584Centro de la Imagen 80Centro de las Artes

Centenario 679Centro Fotográfico

Álvarez Bravo 428Escuela de Bellas Artes

663 Fototeca 208Galería de Arte

Contemporáneo 220Galeria López Quiroga

91-2Galería Quetzalli 428Instituto Cultural de

Cabañas 583Instituto de Artes Gráfi-

cas de Oaxaca 428La Mano Mágica 428Laboratorio de Arte

Alameda 79MUCA Roma 86Museo Casa del Risco 93Museo Casa Estudio

Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo 93

Museo de Aguascalientes 673

Museo de Arte (Mazatlán) 495

Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil 93

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (Aguascalientes) 675

Museo de Arte Contem-poráneo (Mérida) 304

Museo de Arte Contem-poráneo (Monterrey) 795

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca 428

Museo de Arte de Querétaro 639

Museo de Arte de Tlaxcala 168

Museo de Arte de Zapopan 584

Museo de Arte del Estado 233

Museo de Arte Moderno 87, 90, 197

Museo de Arte Popular 79

Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán 304

Museo de Arte Virreinal 191

Museo de Bellas Artes 197

Museo de la Ciudad (Querétaro) 639

Museo de las Artes 583-4

Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños 428

Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato 652

Museo Dolores Olmedo 92

Museo José Guadalupe Posada 675

Museo Jumex 91Museo Nacional de

Arte 73Museo Nacional de la

Estampa 79Museo Nacional de San

Carlos 81Museo Pedro Coronel 693 Museo Soumaya Plaza

Carso 91Museo Tamayo 90Museo Universitario Arte

Contemporáneo 95Museo Universitario del

Chopo 81Oaxaca City 428Palacio Clavijero 613Palacio de Bellas

Artes 77Paseo Cimentación 81Pinacoteca Diego Rivera

219Pinacoteca Universitaria

Alfonso Michel 609Quinta Gameros 779

artesanías, see handicrafts, textiles

arts 821-9books 824, 827

contemporary 428, 823-4

internet resources 823, 826

street art 824ATMs 852Atotonilco Hot Springs 468Atzompa 451-2Aztecs 64-5, 808

religion 806

BBahía de Kino 768-70Bahía de Navidad 535-8Bahía San Agustín 484Bahías de Huatulco 480-6,

481Bahías de Punta Solimán

284Baja California 60, 700-42,

701accommodations 700climate 700highlights 701, 701history 702tours 700travel to/from 702, 772travel within 702

Balamkú 343ball courts 804Banámichi 769banks 852bargaining 23, 852Barra de la Cruz 487Barra de Navidad 537-8Barra de Nexpa 545Barra de Potosí 559-60Batopilas 761-5Baviácora 769beach resorts 25beaches 25

Acapulco 19, 563, 19Bahías de Huatulco

480-2Cancún 259-60Costalegre 534El Soconusco 406-9Isla Cozumel 281Isla Mujeres 267Ixtapa 549Jicacal 253La Paz 732Los Cabos Corridor 737Mahahual 294Manzanillo 538-9Mazatlán 495-6Mulegé 723Paamul 284

Península Pichilingue 732Playa del Carmen 275Playa Maruata 544-5Playa Ventura 574-5Puerto Ángel 470Puerto Escondido 456-7Puerto Vallarta 520Ribera Costa Azul 408-9San Blas 507Sayulita 515Tuxpan 237Veracruz City 210Xpu-Há 284Zihuatanejo 550-1

Becán 344-5, 340beer 834-5Bernal 645bicycle travel, see cyclingbiodiversity 838birds 839, see also

individual speciesbird-watching

Álamos 771, 773Barra de Potosí 559-60Calakmul 343-4Cañón La Trinidad 723El Feurte 751Guerrero Negro 717Isla Mujeres 267-8Laguna Manialtepec

467-8Parque Nacional Isla

Contoy 271Parque Nacional

Lagunas de Chacahua 468-9

Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro Mártir 715

Reserva de la Biosfera El Triunfo 408

Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Celestún 317

Río Lagartos 332Saltillo 790San Blas 509Xalapa 220

boat travel 772, 860, 861boat trips

Acapulco 567Barra de Navidad 537Barra de Potosí 560Bosque Secreto 751Los Cabos Corridor 737Mazunte 477Puerto Peñasco 766Puerto Vallarta 521Río Lagartos 332San Agustinillo 474

880

IND

EX B-C

boat trips continued San Blas 508-9Tlacotalpan 246

Boca de Pascuales 542-3Bolonchén de Rejón 342-3Bonampak 390-1, 393-4,

393books 802, 817, 818, 827,

839art 824, 827crafts 829food 831, 832, 834history 804, 809, 810Maya 814

border crossings 858-60USA 764-5

boxing 820breweries 24

Baja Brewing Co 736Cuauhtémoc MoctezumaHeineken Mexico Brewery

706La Santísima Flor de

Lúpulo 438brujos 250budget 21bullfighting 820

Mexico City 127bus travel 859, 861-2

language 862to/from Belize 858to/from Guatemala 858to/from Mexico 859to/from the USA 859within Mexico 861-2

business hours 852butterflies 18, 621-2, 18

Ccabaret 126cable cars

Teleférico (Taxco) 191-2Teleférico (Zacatecas)

695Teleférico de Orizaba

233Cabo Pulmo 17, 733-4, 17Cabo San Lucas 737-40,

738Cacaxtla 171-3Calakmul 343-4Caleta de Campos 545-6California graywhales 720callejoneada 653

calling codes 855Campeche 333-9, 334-5Campeche state 333-9Cancún 255-66, 258,

262, 37Cañón del Sumidero 357Cañón La Trinidad 723cantinas 835Cantona 174car travel 859, 862

insurance 860rental 863vehicle permits 859-60

Carnaval 30Carretera Fronteriza 390-1Carretera Transpeninsular

709cartels 544casas de cambio 852Casas Grandes 783-4Catemaco 250-2, 251cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Cueva de Sebastián 760Grutas de Balankanché

322Grutas de Calcehtok

320Grutas de Loltún 316Grutas de San Cristóbal

376Parque Nacional Grutas

de Cacahuamilpa 195-6

Sótano de las Golondrinas 689

Sótano de las Huahuas 689

Xtacumbilxunaan 342-3celebrity chefs 832Celestún 317-33cell phones 20, 854-5cenotes 315, 340, 341

Cenote Azul 296Cenote Sagrado 15, 325,

326, 15, 325Cenotes de Cuzamá 320Cenote X’Kekén 330Cenote Zací 330Choo-Ha 292Cristalino Cenote 278Gran Cenote 290Ik Kil Parque

Eco-Arqueológico 322Multún-Ha 292Sacred Cenote 15, 325,

326, 15, 325Tamcach-Ha 292Valladolid region 341

Central Pacific Coast 59, 491-575, 492

accommodations 491climate 491food 491highlights 492, 492travel seasons 491

ceramics 829Cerocahui 752-3Cerro Pelón 622-3ceviche 560, 46Chacahua 468-9Chacala 512-14Chapala 602-4charreadas 596, 820Chepe railway 747-50Chetumal 297-300, 297Chiapa de Corzo 355-7Chiapas 58, 347-416, 348-9

accommodations 347climate 347highlights 348, 348-9history 350travel seasons 347

Chicanná 344Chichén Itzá 15, 322-8,

324-5, 326, 15, 48, 324, 325

Chicxulub 319Chihuahua 777-83, 778chikungunya 850children, travel with 54-6

Mexico City 67Riviera Mayo 274

chilies, 830, 44Chinkultic 404chocolate 835Cholula 163-6, 164Chupaderos 789churches & cathedrals

Augustinian Convent 201Basílica de Guadalupe

99-100Basílica de Nuestra

Señora de Guanajuato 648

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud 625

Basílica de Zapopan 584Basílica del Carmen 250Capilla de las Capuchi-

nas Sacramentarias 98Catedral (Aguascali-

entes) 673-5 Catedral (Colima) 607-8Catedral (Guadalajara)

581 Catedral (Oaxaca City)

423

Catedral (Mazatlán) 493Catedral (Morelia) 612Catedral (Puebla) 155Catedral (Querétaro)

640 Catedral (San Cristóbal)

363Catedral (San Luis

Potosí) 679 Catedral (Zacatecas)

694 Catedral de Guadalupe

709Catedral de la Inmacu-

lada Concepción 228Catedral de la Virgen de

Guadalupe 715Catedral de Nuestra

Señora de la Purísima Concepción 335

Catedral de Saltillo 790Catedral de San

Ildefonso 304Catedral de San José 145Catedral Metropolitana

(Mexico City) 71-3Catedral Metropolitana

(Xalapa) 219Ex-Convento de San

Francisco 631Ex-Convento Domínico

de la Natividad 177Iglesia de Jesús 304-5Iglesia de la Compañía

156Iglesia de Nuestra

Señora de la Asunción 238

Iglesia de San Pancho 623

Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol 635

Iglesia de Santo Domingo 400

Iglesia del Santo Madero 792

Iglesia San José 734Iglesia Santa Bárbara

720 La Capilla de la Paz 565Oratorio de San Felipe

Neri 663 Parroquia de la Purísima

Concepción 772Parroquia de Nuestra

Señora de Dolores 659

Parroquia de San José 220

Parroquia de San Juan Bautista 96

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel 662, 7

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

881IN

DEX C

- DRecinto de la Catedral

183San Ignacio Mission

Church 760Santuario de Guadalupe

614Santuario de la Virgen de

Ocotlán 169Templo & Ex-Convento

de Santo Domingo de Guzmán 363

Templo de Guadalupe 519

Templo de la Concepción 664

Templo de la Purísima Concepción 685

Templo de la Salud 663 Templo de la Santísima

Trinidad 75Templo de la Virgen de la

Natividad 447Templo de San

Bernardino 330Templo de San Antonio

675 Templo de San Francisco

(Puebla) 157Templo de San Francisco

(Querétaro) 639Templo de San Francisco

(San Luis Potosí) 679Templo de San Fran-

cisco (San Miguel de Allende) 663

Templo de San José 681Templo de San Juan 375Templo de Santa Clara

640Templo de Santa Prisca

191Templo de Santa Rosa

de Viterbos 640Templo de Santo

Domingo (Oaxaca City) 423-6

Templo de Santo Do-mingo (Puebla) 155

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán 356

Templo del Carmen 679 Templo del Encino 675 Templo Expiatorio 584Templo La Valenciana

650Templo y Convento de la

Santa Cruz 639Templo y Ex-Convento de

San Juan Bautist 454Templo y Ex-Convento

de San Pedro y San Pablo 454

Templo y Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo 454

cinema 826-7Ciudad Constitución 725-6Ciudad Guzmán 606-7Ciudad Hidalgo 414Ciudad Universitaria 93-5Ciudad Valles 689-691 Clavadistas 495cliff diving 563climate 20, 30-3, 20 see

also individual regionsclimate change 858Coatepec 224-6Cobá 290-2Cocóspera 769Coixtlahuaca 454-5colectivos 864Colima 607-10, 608Colima state 607-12colonial towns 26-7Comala 611combis 864Comitán 400-2, 401Concepción Bamba 489Concordia 496consulates 848-9cooking courses 44

Mérida 305Mexico City 102Oaxaca City 430-1Puerto Morelos 273San Miguel de Allende

665 Tepoztlán 178Tlaxcala 170

Copala 496Copper Canyon 60, 743,

747-64, 744, 748, 28accommodations 743climate 743food 743highlights 744, 744safe travel 746-7travel seasons 743travel to/from 747

Copper Canyon Railway 13, 747-50, 13

Córdoba 228-30Cortés, Hernán 810-11Cosalá 496Coscomatepec 232Costa Chica 574-5Costa Esmeralda 243-4Costa Maya 16, 266Costalegre 534courses, see cooking

courses, language courses

Creel 757-60, 758Cuajinicuilapa 575Cuarón, Alfonso 826-7Cuatro Ciénegas 793-4Cuauhtémoc 753, 811Cuautla 180-1Cuernavaca 182-90, 184Cuetzalan 174-6Cuevas, José Luis 823Cuilapan 449cultural centers

Casa Frisaac 98Centro Cultural (Todos

Santos) 740Centro Cultural Casa

Número 6 334Centro Cultural de

España 73Centro Cultural El

Carmen 363Centro Cultural Jesús

Reyes Heroles 97Centro Cultural San

Pablo 427-9Centro Cultural

Universitario Tlatelolco 99

Centro de Cultura Casa Lamm 86

Centro de Cultura Digital 85

Cuartel del Arte 151La Ciudadela 79Unidad Cultural Profesor

Jesús Castro Agúndez 727

culture 817-20currency 20customs regulations 848Cuyutlán 542cycling 861

Ixtapa 549Mexico City 100Oaxaca City 429Puerto Vallarta 522Real de Catorce 686 Tulum 288

Ddance

danzón 214Mexico City 124

dangers, see safetyDay of the Dead, see Día de

Muertosde Santa Anna, Antonio

López 813 dengue fever 850Día de la

Independencia 33

Día de Muertos 33, 819, 833, 31

Mexico City 102Pátzcuaro 626Uruapan 632

Díaz, Porfirio 814disabilities, travelers

with 856discount cards 848distilleries

Onilikan 495tequila 601, 766

diving & snorkeling 28, 285, 847, 340

Acapulco 566Akumal 285Bahías de Huatulco

482-3Banco Chinchorro 294Cabo Pulmo 17, 733-4, 17Cancún 260Isla Cozumel 281Isla Mujeres 267-8Ixtapa 549Laguna de la Media

Luna 691 Laz Paz 728Los Cabos Corridor 737Mahahual 294Manzanillo 539Mulegé 722Parque Marine Nacional

Bahía de Loreto 724Playa del Carmen 275Puerto Escondido 458Puerto Morelos 273Puerto Vallarta 521safety 847San Agustinillo 474San Carlos 770Sayulita 515Tulum 288Tuxpan 237Veracruz City 209-10Xcalak 295Zihuatanejo 551

Divisadero 757Dolores Hidalgo 658-61 Downs, Lila 825drinks 403, 833-5, see also

distilleriesmezcal 29, 118, 439, 834tequila 29, 602-3, 833-4

driving, see car traveldrug wars 802-3, 816, 854drugs 854Dunas de Yeso 794Durango 786-9, 787Dzibilchaltún 318-19

882

IND

EX E-H

Eeconomy 803, 815, 816ecotourism 843Ek’ Balam 331-2El Ángel 84, 11 El Árbol del Tule 446El Caracol 324, 327, 324,

324El Castillo 323, 325, 325,

325El Chiflón 402-3El Fuerte 749, 751-2El Rosario 622El Soconusco 406-9El Tajín 240-2, 241El Tule 446electricity 848Embarcadero Las Garzas

409embassies 848-9emergencies 855

language 868Ensenada 710-14, 712environmental issues 285,

842-4Espíritu Santo 18, 727, 18ethnicity 818etiquette 23events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21Exekatlkalli 564

FFaro de Bucerías 544fauna 838Ferrocarril Chihuahua

Pacífico 13, 747-50, 13ferry travel 772Festival Alfonso Ortíz

Tirado 773Festival Internacional de

Cine en Monterrey 797festivals & events 30-3,

31, see also Día de Muertos, fiestas

Acapulco 567Aguascalientes 675-6 Chula 165Cuernavaca 185-6Cuetzalan 175Dolores Hidalgo 660 Ensenada 711Guanajuato 653 La Paz 729

Los Cabos Corridor 737Manzanillo 539-40Mazatlán 497-9Mazunte 477Mérida 305Mexico City 102-3Mexcaltitán 506Museo Nacional del

Virreinato 141Oaxaca City 431-2Puebla 158Puerto Escondido 460Puerto Vallarta 523Real de Catorce 686 San Blas 509San Luis Potosí 681 San Miguel de Allende

666-7 Taxco 193Tepoztlán 178Tijuana 703Tlaxcala 170Todos Santos 741Zacatecas 695

fiestas 833films 789, 802, 807, 815,

819, 821fincas 413-14fishing

Acapulco 566-7Chacala 513Ensenada 711Mazatlán 497Puerto Ángel 471Puerto Escondido 458-9Puerto Peñasco 766Puerto Vallarta 521San Agustinillo 474San Carlos 770Zihuatanejo 551

flag 808folk art 828-9food 14, 27, 42-7, 830-5,

849, see also individual locations

antojitos 830-1books 831, 832, 834cantinas 835ceviche 560, 46chilies 830, 44fish tacos 730glossary 874language 866-7mole 436, 831, 47Oaxacan desserts 42tortillas 831, 14vegans 833vegetarians 833

football, see fútbol

forests, see also national parks & reserves

Bosque Secreto 751Fortín de las Flores 230-1fortresses

Baluarte de Santiago 207

Castillo de Chapultepec 87

Fuerte de San Diego 564Fuerte Museo San José

del Alto 336Laguna Bacalar 296 San Juan de Ulúa 207

Frontera Corozal 395-6Fuentes, Carlos 827-8fútbol 819-20

Guadalajara 596Mexico City 127

Ggalleries, see art galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travelers 126, 531, 849

Guadalajara 595geography 836-8golf

Acapulco 565Barra de Navidad 537Mazatlán 497Puerto Vallarta 521San Francisco 514

Gran Juego de Pelota 323, 325, 325

Gran Desierto de Altar 767Green Angels 863Grupo de las Mil Columnas

324, 327, 324Grutas de Loltún 316Guadalajara 18, 577-600,

580, 586-7, 590, 593, 18, 26

accommodations 588-91courses 586drinking & nightlife

594-5emergencies 597entertainment 595-6festivals & events 587-8food 591-4internet access 597shopping 596sights 581-6tourist information 597-8tours 586-7travel to/from 598-9travel within 599-600

Guadalajara region 600-7, 600

Guanajuato 19, 648-58, 650-1, 19

Guanajuato state 648-73Guelaguetza 32, 432Guerrero Negro 717-18

HHacienda El Lencero 224handicrafts 14, 14

Amatenango del Valle 373

Bahía de Kino 768Chihuahua 782Creel 760Mérida 308Puebla 162Puerto Vallarta 532San Cristóbal de lasCasas 371Teotitlán del Valle 446-7

health 849-50Hidalgo, Miguel 659, 813 Hidalgo del Parral 784-5Hierve El Agua 449hiking 29, 28

Bahías de Huatulco 483Barranca de Metlac 230Batopilas 763Cerro Pelón 622Copper Canyon 29, 28Iztaccíhuatl 167Mazunte 477Nevado de Toluca 199Oaxaca City 429Real de Catorce 685-6 Reserva de la Biosfera

Sierra de la Laguna 734

Urique 754Volcán Tacaná 412Volcán Paricutín 17,

635, 17historic buildings

Casa de Cortés 96Casa de los Azulejos 74Ex-Convento de

Churubusco 97Ex-Hotel Zevallos 228La Jalisciense 98Na Bolom 359Palacio de Gobierno

582, 781Palacio Postal 73Teatro Degollado 582

history 804-16Aztecs 808books 804, 809, 810

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

883IN

DEX H

- MClassic Maya 806-7drug wars 816films 807, 815internet resources 805,

806, 809Mexican independence

813-14Mexican Revolution 780,

814-15Olmecs 805PAN (Partido Acción

Nacional) 816PRI (Partido Revolu-

cionario Institucional) 815-16

Spanish colonization 811-12

Spanish conquest 809-11

Teotihuacán 805Toltecs 807

history museumsMuseo de Historia de

Tlalpán 98Museo de la

Restauración de la República 639

Museo del Estado 612Museo Nacional de

Historia 87Museo Nacional de las

Intervenciones 97Museo Regional de His-

toria de Colima 609holidays 853Hormiguero 346horseback riding 29

Creel 758Oaxaca City 429Pie de la Cuesta 561Puerto Vallarta 521Real de Catorce 686San Francisco 514Tequisquiapan 645

hot springs, see thermal baths

Huamantla 173-4Huasteca Potosina 16,

689, 16Huichol people 684

Iice-skating 101Ihuatzio 630-1immigration 816Iñárritu, Alejandro

González 826-7indigenous peoples 220,

376Aztecs 64-5Classic Veracruz

civilization 220Huastecs 220Huichol 684 Lacandones 376Oaxaca 440Olmecs 220Seri 768Tarahumara 762textiles 371Totonacs 220

insurance 850-1, 860internet access 851internet resources 21Isla Contoy 271Isla Cozumel 279-84,

280, 282Isla de la Piedra 495Isla de la Roqueta 563Isla de los Alacranes 602Isla de Mezcala 602Isla de Todos Santos 710Isla del Tiburón 768Isla Holbox 271-3Isla Ixtapa 548-9Isla Janitzio 629Isla Mujeres 266-71, 267,

268Isla Río Cuale 519Isla San Jorge 766Isthmus of Tehuantepec

487-90itineraries 34-41, 34, 36,

39, 40-1Ixtapa 548-50Ixtapan de la Sal 202Izamal 320-1Iztaccíhuatl 166-7

JJalcomulco 226Jalpan 646-7Jerez 697 Jicacal 253Juárez, Benito 423, 427,

813-14Juchitán 488-90

KKabah 314-15Kahlo, Frida 80, 92, 93,

95-6, 168, 823kayaking 29

La Paz 728Mexico City 100Mulegé 722Parque Marine Nacional

Bahía de Loreto 724kidnapping 803

kitesurfingLa Ventana 732-3Los Barriles 733

LLa Antigua 217La Barra 253La Bufadora 714La Huasteca Potosina 16,

689, 16 La Malinche 173La Paz 727-32, 728La Quemada 699 La Ruptura 823La Ventana 732-3La Ventanilla 479Lacandón Jungle 392, 394Lacanjá Chansayab 394-5Lago de Chapala 601-5Lago de Pátzcuaro 629-31,

630Lagos de Montebello 404-

6, 405Laguna Bacalar 296, 16Laguna Catemaco 252Laguna de Sontecomapan

252-3Laguna Manialtepec 467-8Laguna Miramar 399-400Laguna Santa María del

Oro 512lakes, see rivers & lakeslanguage 20, 23, 865-74

bus travel 862courses 851Mexican Spanish slang

870language courses 851

Ensenada 711Guadalajara 586Guanajuato 653Laz Paz 729Mazunte 477Mérida 305Mexico City 101Morelia 615Oaxaca City 429-30Pátzcuaro 626Playa del Carmen 275Puerto Escondido

459-60Puerto Morelos 273Puerto Vallarta 522Querétaro 641San Cristóbal de las

Casas 364San Miguel de Allende

665 Taxco 192-3

Veracruz City 210Xalapa 221

Las Brisas 543Las Islas Marías 507Las Nubes 398Las Palmitas 24Las Pozas 688Lázaro Cárdenas 546legal matters 851-2legends 806León 658 lesbian travelers 126,

531, 849Guadalajara 595

LGBTI travelers 126libraries

Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra 625

Biblioteca Pública dela Universidad

Michoacana 613literature 827-8, see

also booksLoreto 723-5Los Cabos Corridor 737,

738Los Mochis 775-7, 775Los Tuxtlas 252-3, 253lucha libre 820luxury hotels 25

MMadre Sal 407-8Magdalena de Kino 769Mahahual 294-5malaria 850Malinalco 201-2Manzanillo 538-42, 539maps 852marathons 754markets 44, 46

Acapulco 572Cancún 264Cuernavaca 189Guadalajara 586, 46Mercado Roma 24Mercado San Juan de

Dios 596-7, 26Mexico City 81, 85, 92,

101, 128-30Oaxaca City 440Pátzcuaro 625Tehuantepec 488Tepoztlán 179Tequisquiapan 646Tlacolula 447Uruapan 633Valles Centrales 450

884

IND

EX M

masks 829massages 459Mata Ortiz 784Matehuala 684 Maya 806-7, 418Maya calendar 806, 807Mazamitla 606Mazatlán 493-506, 494,

498, 502Mazatlán-Durango

Highway 24Mazunte 476-9measures 850Mennonites 753Mercado Roma 24Mercado San Juan de Dios

596-7, 26Mérida 13, 301, 304-10,

302-3, 311, 13, 31, 340

Mérida region 310-17, 320, 311

metro 864Metzabok 392Mexcaltitán 506-7Mexicali 715-16Mexican jumping beans 771Mexican Revolution 780,

814-15Mexico City 11, 57, 62-139,

63, 68-9, 76-7, 82-3, 88-9, 94, 106-7, 122, 11

accommodations 62, 103-9

activities 100children, travel with 67climate 62courses 100-2drinking 117-23emergencies 130entertainment 123-7events 102-3festival & events 102-3food 62, 109-17highlights 63history 64-6internet access 130-1itineraries 64medical services 131nightlife 117-23 safe travel 130shopping 127-30sights 66-100tourist information 132

tours 102travel seasons 62travel to/from 132-4,

136-7travel within 134-9walking tour 72, 72

Mexico City region 140-202, 142-3

mezcal 29, 118, 439, 834Michoacán 612-35Michoacán Coast 543-6Mineral de Pozos 676 Mineral del Chico 152-4mines

Bocamina de San Ramón & Bocamina de San Cayetano 652

Mina La Prieta 785missions

Baja 722Misión Nuestra Señora

de Loreto 724Misión San Francisco

Javier de Viggé-Biaundó 725

Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé 722

Mitla 448-9mobile phones 20, 854-5Moctezuma 810mole 436, 831, 47monarch butterflies 18, 30,

621-2, 18monasteries

Convento de San Antonio de Padua 320

Ex-Convento del Santo Desierto de Nuestra Señora del Carmen 99

Templo de San Francisco 74-5

Templo y Ex-Convento de San Juan Bautist 454

Templo y Ex-Convento de San Pedro y San Pablo 454

Templo y Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo 454

money 20, 21, 23, 852discount cards 848

monkeys 4Monte Albán 443-5, 444Monterrey 794-800 , 796

accommodations 798activities 795-7drinking 798-9events 797festivals & events 797food 798-9history 795

medical services 799safe travel 799shopping 799-800sights 795-7tourist information 799travel to/from 799travel within 799-800

Monumento a la Independencia 84, 11

monumentsMonumento a El Pípila

649Monumento a la

Corregidora 640Monumento a la

Independencia 84, 11Monumento a la

Revolución 80-1Monumento a Los Niños

Héroes 90Olmec Head 247Rotonda de los Jalis-

censes Ilustres 583Volador Monument 238

Morelia 612-21, 614-15motorcycle travel 859mountain biking 29

Bahías de Huatulco 483Monterrey 800Parque de Aventura Bar-

rancas del Cobre 756mountaineering 167movimiento crack 828-9Mulegé 721-3muralists 814, 823murals

Las Palmitas 24Museo Jardín del Agua 91Museo Mural Diego

Rivera 78Pasaje Rodríguez 24Secretaría de Educación

Pública 76Suprema Corte de

Justicia 75museums 27-8, 50, see

also anthropological museums, archaeo-logical museums, art galleries, history museums

Anahuacalli 96Antiguo Colegio de San

Ildefonso 77Café Museo Café 363Casa Chihuahua 779Casa de Arte Olga

Costa-José Chávez Morado 652

Casa de Cultura (Monterrey) 794

Casa de los Venados 329Casa de Montejo 301-4Casa Lereé 718Casa Machado 493Casa Museo Agustín

Lara 246Casa Museo Dr Belisario

Domínguez 400Casa-Museo

Totomoxtle 227Centro Cultural de Real

de Catorce 685 Centro Cultural

Mexiquense 197Centro Ecológico Akumal

285Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel

de Barrera 650Ex Teresa Arte Actual 74Galería y Museo de Arte

Popular 336Horno3 797La Esquina: Museo

del Juguete Popular Mexicano 662

Mini-Zoológico Museo 246

MMAPO 183-4MUCAL 638Museo Agustín Lara 208Museo Amparo 155Museo Antiguo Convento

Franciscano de Santa Ana 631

Museo Archivo de la Fotografía 73

Museo Bicentenario 1810-2010 660

Museo Bichos e Insectos 363

Museo Capitán Dulché 267

Museo Casa de Hidalgo 660

Museo Casa de Juárez (Chihuahua) 781

Museo Casa de Juárez (Oaxaca City) 427

Museo Casa de las Artesanías del Estado de Chihuahua 757

Museo Casa de León Trotsky 96

Museo Casa de Morelos 613

Museo Casa de Villa 779Museo Casa de Xalapa

219Museo Casa del

Alfeñique 158Museo Casa Natal de

Morelos 613Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

885IN

DEX M

- NMuseo Comunitario 452Museo Comunitario

Balaa Xtee Guech Gulal 447

Museo Costumbrista de Sonora 772

Museo de Arte Sacro de Guadalajara 582

Museo de Artes Populares (Pátzcuaro) 624-5

Museo de Batopilas 763Museo de Cultura de la

Huasteca Tamuantzán 690

Museo de Culturas Populares 197

Museo de El Carmen 93Museo de Historia

Mexicana 796Museo de Historia

Natural 415Museo de la Amistad

México-Cuba 236Museo de la Arquitectura

Maya 335Museo de la Ballena

24, 727Museo de la Basílica de

Guadalupe 100Museo de la Ciudad 450

786 Museo de la Ciudad

(Campeche) 335Museo de la Ciudad

(Chetumal) 298Museo de la Ciudad

(Querétaro) 639Museo de la Ciudad de

Cholula 164Museo de la Ciudad de

México 75Museo de la Ciudad de

Veracruz 207Museo de la Ciudad

Teodoro Cano 238Museo de la Cuenca del

Usumacinta 395Museo de la Independ-

encia Nacional 660 Museo de la Isla de

Cozumel 279Museo de la Marimba 351Museo de la Medicina

Maya 359Museo de la Memoria

169Museo de la Pintura

Mural Teotihuacana 149

Museo de la Restaura-ción de la República 639

Museo de la Revolución 157-8

Museo de la Secretaría de Hacienda y Crédito Público 74

Museo de la Tortura 74Museo de las Aves de

México 790Museo de las Californias

702Museo de las Culturas

Afromestizas 575Museo de las Culturas

Populares 786Museo de las Momias

652Museo de los Altos de

Chiapas 363Museo de los Seris 768Museo de María Félix 772Museo de Minería 151Museo de Sarape 790Museo de Sitio

(Palenque) 384Museo de Títere 173Museo del Ámbar de

Chiapas 363Museo del Arte

Abstracto Manuel Felguérez 694

Museo del Café 351Museo del Calendario

638Museo del Calzado El

Borceguí 101Museo del Cuale 520Museo del Desierto 790Museo del Estanquillo 74Museo del Ferrocarril

(Puebla) 156Museo del Ferrocarril

(San Luis Potosí) 681 Museo del Juguete

Antiguo México 101Museo del Noreste 796Museo del Objeto del

Objeto 86Museo del Origen 506Museo del Tequila y el

Mezcal 74Museo del Vestido 227Museo del Virreinato

679 Museo el Boleo 720Museo El Cafétal Apan

225Museo Ex-Hacienda El

Lencero 224Museo Federico Silva

678-9 Museo Francisco Goitia

695

Museo Francisco Villa 785

Museo Franz Mayer 79Museo Frida Kahlo 95-6Museo Guillermo

Spratling 191Museo Histórico de San

Miguel de Allende 663

Museo Histórico del Oriente 180

Museo Histórico Naval 206

Museo Huichol 584Museo Iconográfico del

Quijote 650Museo Indígena

Huatápera 632Museo Interactivo de

Economía (MIDE) 73Museo José Alfredo

Jiménez 660 Museo José Luis Bello y

González 158Museo José Luis Cuevas

77Museo Loyola 761Museo Manuel M. Ponce

695 Museo Memoria y

Tolerancia 79Museo Mirador El Fuerte

751Museo Morelense de

Arte Popular 183-4Museo Mulegé 722Museo Nacional de

Arquitectura 78Museo Nacional de Cul-

turas Populares 96Museo Nacional de la

Máscara 679 Museo Nacional de la

Muerte 673 Museo Nacional de la

Revolución 81Museo Nacional de las

Culturas 75Museo Nacional del

Virreinato 141Museo Pantaleón

Panduro 585Museo Rafael Coronel

693 Museo Regional de

Durango 786Museo Regional de

Guadalajara 581-2Museo Regional de Gua-

najuato Alhóndiga de Granaditas 649-50

Museo Regional de Historia 675

Museo Regional de la Cerámica 585

Museo Regional de las Culturas de Occidente 606

Museo Regional de Nayarit 511

Museo Regional de Tlaxcala 169

Museo Regional Michoacano 612

Museo Regional Potosino 679

Museo Regional (Querétaro) 639

Museo Robert Brady 183Museo Rufino Tamayo

427Museo Salvador

Ferrando 246Museo Textil de Oaxaca

427Museo Tuxteco 247Museo Universitario de

Artes Populares 609Museo Universitario de

Ciencias 95Museo Vivo de Artes y

Tradiciones Populares 169

Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera (Guanajuato) 649

Museo y Centro Cultural Menonita 753

Museo Zacatecano 694Other Face of Mexico

Gallery 663 Palacio de Gobierno 608Palacio de Hierro 233Papalote Museo del Niño

90-1, 185Parque-Museo La Venta

416Postal Museum 73

music 620, 824-6cumbia 826danzón 826festivals 773, 825música tropical 826 norteño 825ranchera 825

NNahá 392national parks & reserves

840-2, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves

Área de Protección de Flora y Fauna Cuatrociénegas 793

886

IND

EX N- P

national parks & reserves continued

Cerro de Venado 249Parque de Aventura

Barrancas del Cobre 756-7

Parque Ecológico Chipinque 800

Parque Marine Nacional Bahía de Loreto 724

Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857 714-15

Parque Nacional Desi-erto de los Leones 99

Parque Nacional El Chico 152-4

Parque Nacional Grutas de Cacahuamilpa 195-6

Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 271

Parque Nacional Lagunas de Chacahua 468-9

Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro Mártir 715

Parque Nacional Volcán Nevado de Colima 610-12

Parque Punta Sur 279-80Reserva de la Biosfera

El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar 767

Reserva de la Biosfera El Triunfo 408

Reserva de la Biosfera La Encrucijada 408-9

Reserva de la Biosfera Los Tuxtlas 252-3, 253

Reserva de la Biosfera Pantanos de Centla 417

Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Celestún 317

Reserva de la Biosfera Sian Ka’an 292-3

Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra de la Laguna 734

Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra Gorda 647

Reserva Ecológica de Nanciyaga 252

Reserva Mariposa Monarca 18, 621-3, 18

Sierra de Álamos-Río Cuchujaqui Flora & Fauna Protection Area 771

Nevado de Toluca 199newspapers 850Northern Central Highlands

60, 636-99, 637accommodations 636climate 636food 636highlights 637, 637history 637-8travel seasons 636travel to/from 638travel within 638

Northern Mexico 60, 743, 744-5

accommodations 743climate 743food 743highlights 744-5, 744-5safe travel 746-7travel seasons 743travel to/from 747

Nuevo Casas Grandes 783-4

Nuevo Cine Mexicano 826

OOaxaca state 12, 59, 419-

90, 420-1, 14accommodations 419art 428climate 419food 419, 42highlights 420-1, 420-1history 422travel seasons 419

Oaxaca City 12, 422-43, 424-5, 13

accommodations 432-5activities 429courses 429-31drinking 438-9emergencies 441entertainment 439-40events 431-2 festivals 431-2food 435-8internet access 441medical services 441nightlife 438-9 shopping 440-1sights 422-7tourist information 441tours 431travel to/from 442-3travel within 443

Ocosingo 377-8Ocotlán 450-1

olive ridley turtles 407, 469, 544, see also turtles

Olmecs 805opening hours 852organized crime 802-3Orizaba 232-5Orozco, José Clemente

582, 823Oxkintok 320

PPachuca 150-2painting 822-4palaces

Palacio de Atetelco 149Palacio de Bellas

Artes 77Palacio de Cortés 182-3Palacio de Gobierno

(Aguascalientes) 675 Palacio de Gobierno

(Mérida) 304Palacio de Gobierno

(Morelia) 613Palacio de Gobierno

(Oaxaca City) 422-3Palacio de Gobierno

(San Luis Potosí) 679 Palacio de Iturbide 74Palacio de Justicia 613Palacio de Minería 73Palacio de

Quetzalpapálotl 148-9Palacio de Tepantitla 149Palacio de Tetitla 149Palacio Municipal

(Mérida) 304Palacio Nacional 70Palacio Postal 73

Palenque 11, 380-90, 382, 384-5, 10-11, 36-7

PAN 816Papantla 238-40parks & gardens

Alameda Central 78Bosque Cuauhtémoc

614Bosque de Chapultepec

86-7, 90-1Cosmovitral Jardín

Botánico 196-7Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel

de Barrera 650Jardín Botánico

(Mexicon City) 90Jardín Botánico Clavijero

220Jardín Botánico de

Acapulco 565Jardín Botánico de

Vallarta 520

Jardín Botánico Dr Alfredo Barrera Marín 273

Jardín Botánico El Charco del Ingenio 662

Jardín de la Bombilla 93Jardín Etnobotánico

426-7Jardín Juárez (Cuernavaca) 182Los Cazos 606Museo y Jardín de

Orquideas 225Parque Alameda 233Parque Ecológico

Macuiltépetl 219Parque Ecológico Paso

Coyol 228Parque España 85Parque Fundidora 797Parque Madero 351Parque México 85Parque Miguel Hidalgo

225Parque-Museo La Venta

416Parque Nacional Barranca

del Cupatitzio 632Parque Paseo de los

Lagos 219Parque Revolución 583Parque Santa Lucía 304Paseo Santa Lucía 797Quinta Fernando Schmoll

645Villa Luz 417Viveros de Coyoacán 97

Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre 756-7

Parque Marine Nacional Bahía de Loreto 724

Parque Nacional Con-stitución de 1857 714-15

Parque Nacional Grutas de Cacahuamilpa 195-6

Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro Mártir 715

Parras 791-3Parroquia de San Miguel

Arcángel 662, 7 Partido Acción Nacional

816Partido Revolucionario

Institucional Pasaje Rodríguez 24Pátzcuaro 624-9, 626Paz, Octavio 827-8photography 852Pico de Orizaba 17, 235-6,

17, 837

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

887IN

DEX P

- SPie de la Cuesta 561-2Pirámide de la Luna 12, 147 Pirámide del Sol 12, 147, 12 Pitiquito 769planning 22-3, see also

individual regionscalendar of events 30-3children 54-6food 42-7highlights 8-9, 8-9itineraries 34-41Mexico’s regions 57-60repeat visitors 24travel to/from Mexico

858-60travel within Mexico

860-4visiting ruins 48-53

plants 840Playa Colola 544Playa del Carmen 275-

9, 276Playa Delfines 467Playa Escobilla 469Playa La Ticla 544Playa Maruata 544-5Playa Ventura 574-5Playa Zicatela 463Playas de Rosarito 709-10plazas

Gran Plaza (Monterrey) 795

Jardín de la Marimba 351Parque Castillo 233Parque de 21 de Mayo

228Parque Juárez 218Plaza 31 de Marzo 362Plaza 400 Años 795-6Plaza (Chiapa de Corzo)

356Plaza Cívica 351Plaza de Armas

(Chihuahua) 781Plaza de Armas

(Durango) 786Plaza de Armas

(Guadalajara) 581-3 Plaza de la Liberación

583Plaza de las Tres

Culturas 98Plaza de los Mariachis

583Plaza de Santa

Veracruz 79Plaza Garibaldi 74Plaza Gertrudis

Bocanegra 625Plaza Guadalajara 582

Plaza Hidalgo & Jardín Centenario 96

Plaza Juárez (Mexico City) 79

Plaza Miguel Hidalgo 645

Plaza Morelos 614Plaza San Jacinto 93Plaza Santa Catarina 97Plaza Santo Domingo 75Plaza Tapatía 583Plaza Tolsá 73Plaza Vasco de Quiroga

624Zócalo (Mexico City)

66-7Zócalo (Papantla) 238Zócalo (Veracruz City)

206Pochutla 469-70Popocatépetl 166-7population 803Posada Barrancas 755-6Posada, José Guadalupe

819postal services 853pre-Hispanic sites 48-53,

51, 48-9, 50PRI 815-16Progreso 319-20public holidays 853public transportation 864Puebla 154-63, 156-7Pueblos Mancomunados

452-4, 446-7Puerto Ángel 470-1Puerto Arista 407Puerto Escondido 456-67,

456-7, 463, 14Puerto López Mateos 726Puerto Morelos 273-5Puerto Nuevo 710Puerto Peñasco 765-8Puerto San Carlos 726-7Puerto Vallarta 518-34,

519, 524-5accommodations 523-7activities 521courses 522drinking 530-2entertainment 532events 523 festivals 523food 528-30medical services 533nightlife 530-2 shopping 532sights 518-20tourist information 533tours 522-3

travel to/from 533travel within 533-4

pulque 834Punta Allen 293Punta de Mita 517-18Punta Lobos 742Punta Villa Rica 244-5pyramids 25-6, 821, see

also archaeological sites

Chula Zona Arqueológica 163-4

El Castillo 323, 325, 325, 325

La Ferrería 789Pirámide de la Luna

12, 147Pirámide de los Nichos

241-2Pirámide de

Quetzalcóatl 186Pirámide de Tepozteco

177Pirámide del Sol 12,

147, 12

QQuerétaro 638-45, 640-1Querétaro state 638-48Quiahuiztlán 244Quintana Roo 255-300

Rrabies 850rafting 29

Bahías de Huatulco 483Jalcomulco 226Las Nubes 398Mazunte 477

railways 747-50, see also Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico

Real de Catorce 684-9, 687 Real del Monte 153Reforma Agraria 397-8religion 803, 818-19Reserva de la Biosfera

El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar 767

Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra de la Laguna 734

Reserva de la Biosfera Los Tuxtlas 252-3, 253

reserves, see national parks & reserves

Ribera Costa Azul 408-9Río Bec 346Río de Sonora Valley 769Río Lagartos 332-3Rio Verde 691

Rivera, Diego 80, 823collections 92, 233frescoes 76murals 70, 77, 91, 96, 183museums 78-9, 93,

219, 649rivers & lakes

Lago Arareko 761Lago de Chapala 601-5Lago de Pátzcuaro 629Lagos de Montebello

404-6Laguna Catemaco 250,

252Laguna de

Sontecomapan 252-3Laguna Encantada 249Laguna Manialtepec

467-8Laguna Miramar

399-402robbery 853rock climbing

Cerro de Metates 244Parque de Aventura

Barrancas del Cobre 756

rodeos 596, 820Rosario 496Rulfo, Juan 827-8Ruta del Vino 706Ruta Puuc 315-16

SSacred Cenote 15, 325,

326, 15, 325safety 746-7, 765, 850,

853-4Salina Cruz 488Saltillo 790-1San Agustín Etla 452San Agustinillo 474-6San Andrés Tuxtla 248-50San Bartolo Coyotepec

449-50San Blas 507-11, 508-9San Carlos 770-1San Cristóbal de las Casas

15, 358-73, 360-1, 374, 15

accommodations 365-8courses 364drinking 370entertainment 370-1events 365 festivals 365food 368-9medical services 372nightlife 370 shopping 371-2

888

IND

EX S- T

San Cristóbal de las Casas continued

sights 359-63tourist information 372tours 364-5, 374travel to/from 372-3travel within 373

San Francisco 514-15San Ignacio 718-19San José del Cabo 734-6,

735San José del Pacífico 451San Juan Chamula 374-5San Juan de Alima 543San Lorenzo Zinacantán

375San Luis Potosí 678-84,

680 San Luis Potosí State

678-91 San Martín Tilcajete 450San Miguel de Allende 661-

71, 664-5, 2-3 San Miguel de Cozumel

279, 281-2, 283, 282San Patricio-Melaque 535-6Santa Anna 813 Santa Elena 313-14Santa Muerte 820Santa Rosalía 720-1Santiago Apoala 455Santiago Tuxtla 247-8Santo Domingo 413Santuario de Atotonilco

672-3 Santuario de la Cruz

Parlante 293Sayulita 515-17scorpion bites 850sculpture 822-4Selva Lacandona 392, 394shaman 250shopping 27, see also

individual regionslanguage 868

Sierra de San Francisco 719-20

Sierra Gorda Missions 647-8

Sierra Norte 452-4Síijil Noh Há 24Sima de las Cotorras 355sinkholes, see cenotesSiqueiros, David Alfaro 823slang (Mexican Spanish)

870

smoking 850snake bites 850snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsoccer, see fútbolSoledad de Maciel 560-1Spanish language 865-74spas 25spider monkeys 4sportfishing 497, 551, 566-7stand-up paddleboarding

515, 547, 38Sumidero Canyon 357surfing 28-9

Baja 741Barra de la Cruz 487Barra de Nexpa 545Boca de Pascuales 542-3Chacala 513Concepción Bamba 489Ensenada 710Isla Cozumel 281Isla de Todos Santos 710Ixtapa 549Mazatlán 496Oaxaca 459Pie de la Cuesta 561Playa La Ticla 544Puerto Escondido 457-8San Agustinillo 474San Blas 508Sayulita 515Todos Santos 741Troncones 546-8

swimmingAkumel 285Cuatro Ciénegas 794Laguna Bacalar 296, 16Monterrey 794Parras 792Progreso 319Puerto Morelos 273Tulum 290, 292Valladolid 330Yucatán Peninsula 254

TTabasco 58, 414-18, 348-9

climate 347highlights 348, 416-17,

348-9travel seasons 347

Talismán 414Talking Cross, Shrine to

the 293tamales 831, 45Tamayo, Rufino 823Tankah 284

Tapachula 409-12, 410Tapalpa 605-6Tapijulapa 417Tarahumara people 754,

762Taxco 190-5, 192taxes 846, 852taxis 864Tecolutla 242-3Tehuantepec 488Telapo 604telephone services 20, 21,

854-5temples 25-6

Templo de las Inscripciones 382, 10-11

Templo de los Guerreros 325, 327, 325

Tenochtitlán 808Teotihuacán 12, 146-50,

805, 148, 12Teotitlán del Valle 446-7Tepic 511-12Teposcolula 454-5Tepotzotlán 141-4Tepoztlán 176-80, 177tequila 29, 602-3, 833-4

distilleries 601, 766Tequila 601Tequisquiapan 645-6textiles 371, 632, 828-9theft 853thermal baths

Aconchi 769Aguas Termales Reko-

wata (Creel) 761Cuautla 180Ixtapan de la Sal 202Maguarachi 761San Miguel de Allende

672Tijuana 702-8, 704, 38-9time 20, 855-6Tingambato 634-5tipping 23, 852Tlacolula 447Tlacotalpan 245-7Tlaxcala 167-71, 168tlayudas 831, 14 Tócuaro 631Todos Santos 740-2Toltecs 807Toluca 196-9Tonalá 406-7Toniná 378-9tortillas 831, 14tourist information 856tourist permits 856-7

toursÁlamos 772-3Bonampak 391Campeche 337Cañada de la Virgen 672 Cancún 260Celestún 317Creel 757-8Ixtapa 549Laguna de la Media

Luna 691 Los Cabos Corridor 737Malinalco 201Mazatlán 497Mérida 305Mexico City 102Oaxaca City 431Pachuca 151Palenque 386Playa del Carmen 277Puebla 158Puerto Escondido 460Puerto Vallarta 522-3San Blas 508-9San Luis Potosí 681 San Miguel de Allende

665-6San Patricio-Melaque

535Tlaxcala 170Toluca 197Troncones 547Tulum 288Xpuhil 345Zihuatanejo 551-2

towersEstela de Luz 85Torre BBVA Bancomer 85Torre Latinoameri-

cana 75Torre Mayor 84-5

train travel 864transportation

language 862travel to/from Mexico

858-60travel within Mexico

860-4Tres Zapotes 248Troncones 546-8Tubutama 769Tula 144-6Tulum 286-90, 287, 288-

9, 35, 50turtles 242, 407, 408, 469,

544, 838Tuxpan 236-8Tuxtla Gutiérrez 350-5,

352-3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

889IN

DEX T-Z

typhoid 850Tzintzuntzan 631

Uultramarathons 754Unión Juárez 413universities

Ciudad Universitaria 93-5

Universidad de Guanajuato 652

urbanization 817-18, 843Ures 769Urique 753-5Uruapan 631-4Uxmal 310-13, 312, 26

Vvacations 853vaccinations 850Valladolid 328-31, 329Valle de Bravo 199-201Valle de Etla 451-2Valle de Guadalupe 706Valle de las Ranas y los

Hongos 760Valle de los Monjes 760Valle de Tlacolula 445-9Valle de Zimatlán 449-51Valles Centrales 443-52,

446-7vegans 833vegetarians 833Velázquez de León,

Josefina 834Veracruz 58, 203-53

accommodations 203climate 203food 203highlights 204, 204history 205travel seasons 203

Veracruz City 205-16, 208-9

Villa del Oeste 789Villa, Francisco ‘Pancho’

780, 814-15Villahermosa 414-18Villa Rica 244Vive Latino 825visas 20, 856-7, 858voladores 239, 242, 584volcanoes 767, 836

Cerro del Pinacate 767Iztaccíhuatl 166-7La Malinche 173Popocatépetl 166-7Volcán Ceboruco 512

Volcán de Fuego 610Volcán Nevado de

Colima 611Volcán Paricutín 17,

635, 17Volcán Tacaná 413

Volcán Paricutín 17, 635, 17volunteering 242, 431,

472, 857

Wwater 850waterfalls

Agua Azul 379Cascada Bola de Oro

225Cascada Cola de la

Serpiente 455Cascada Cusárare

(Creel) 761Cascada de Basaseachi

761Cascada de las

Golondrinas 392Cascada de Texolo 227Cascada de Tamul

690, 16Cascada de Tzaráracua

634Cascada del Salto 174Cascada Wejlib-Já

391-2El Aguacero 355El Chiflón 402-3El Salto 605Huasteca Potosina 690 Las Brisas 174Misol-Ha 379Salto de Eyipantla 249

weather 20, 30-3, see also individual regions

weights 850Western Central Highlands

59, 576-635, 578-9climate 576food 576highlights 578, 578-9history 577travel seasons 576

whales 720, 839whale-watching

Ensenada 711Guerrero Negro 717Isla Holbox 272La Paz 727-8Parque Nacional Isla

Contoy 271Puerto Escondido 458Puerto López Mateos 726Puerto San Carlos 726-7

wildlife 838-40wildlife reserves, see

also national parks & reserves, parks & gardens

Cocodrilario 548El Refugio de Potosí

559-60wildlife-watching 29

Guerrero Negro 717La Paz 727-8La Ventana 732-3La Ventanilla 479Parque Nacional Sierra

San Pedro Mártir 715Playa Colola 544Playa Delfines 467Playa Escobilla 469Playa Ventura 574-5Puerto Escondido 458Puerto Peñasco 766Puerto Vallarta 522Punta Lobos 742Reserva Mariposa

Monarca 18, 621-3, 18San Agustinillo 474Xcacel-Xcacelito 284

windsurfing 733wine 793, 835wineries

Parras 793Ruta del Vino 706Valle de Guadalupe 706Vinícola L.A. Cetto 703

women travelers 857woodwork 829World Heritage sites

Campeche 333-9Guanajuato 648-58Instituto Cultural de

Cabañas 583Morelia 612-21Paquimé 784Reserva de la Biosfera

El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar 767

Reserva Mariposa Monarca 18, 621-3, 18

Sierra de San Francisco 719-20

Sierra Gorda Missions 647-8

Teotihuacán 12, 146-50, 805, 148, 12

Tequila 601Tlacotalpan 245-7Xochicalco 186Xochimilco 92Yagul 447-8Zacatecas 691-9, 692

wrestling 820

XXalapa 217-24, 218-9Xcacel-Xcacelito 284Xcalak 295Xico 226-42Xochicalco 186Xochimilco 92Xochitécatl 171-3Xpujil 345-6Xtacumbilxunaan 342-3

YYagul 447-8Yanhuitlán 454-5Yaxchilán 390-1, 396-7,

396yellow fever 850yoga

Puerto Escondido 459San Cristóbal de las

Casas 364Zihuatanejo 551

Yohualichán 176Yucatán Peninsula 58, 254-

335, 256-7climate 254food 254highlights 256-7history 255

Yucatán state 300-33

ZZacatecas 691-9, 692 Zacatecas state 691-699 Zapata, Emiliano 181, 814Zapatistas 364Zempoala 216-17Zihuatanejo 550-9, 552-3zip-lining

El Chiflón 403Las Nubes 398Parque de Aventura

Barrancas del Cobre 756

Urique 755Zipolite 471-4Zitácuaro 623-4Zócalo (Mexico City) 66-7Zona de Montaña 605-7Zona Maco 823zoos

Cocodrilario 507Parque-Museo La Venta

414Zoológico de

Chapultepec 90Zoológico Miguel Álvarez

del Toro 350

890

NO

TES

891N

OTES

892

NO

TES

893

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

CL

AA

RTJE

SC

HO

UT

EN

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

894

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Anna KaminskiThe Mexican Way of Life, Directory, Transportation Anna’s love affair with Mexico began in 1999, when she crossed the land border to Tijuana; she liked the merry chaos so much that she ended up backpacking all the way down to Cabo San Lu-cas. Since then, she’s put her university background in Latin American history and culture to good use, coming back on many occasions to teach English in Oaxaca, visit every major ancient ruin in the country, learn to surf in Sayulita, criss-cross the

country by bus, ride the country’s only train and travel far and wide in search of the perfect fish taco. Anna tweets at @ACKaminski. Anna also contributed to the Plan Your Trip chapters of this edition.

Tom MastersCopper Canyon & Northern Mexico Tom has had an extended love affair with Mexico ever since working in the jungle of Chiapas as a documentary producer in 2005. Since then he has lived in Mexico City and written widely about many dif-ferent parts of the country for Lonely Planet. In writing the monster Copper Can-yon & Northern Mexico chapter, Tom particularly found himself loving Álamos, Parras and Monterrey’s reinvigorated Barrio Antiguo, as well as finally getting to

do the Copper Canyon Railway. You can find Tom online at www.tommasters.net.

Josephine QuinteroBaja California Josephine was married for many years to a Mexican American with a large extended family, leading to a healthy exposure to mariachi music and mar-garitas. She made frequent trips over the border from her home in San Diego and continues to be enthralled by the heady mix of vibrant culture, wonderful people, fabulous food and all that history. Josephine now lives in Andalucía, Spain. A high-light of this trip was discovering the fabulous urban art in downtown Tijuana.

Read more about Josephine at lonelyplanet.com/members/josephinequintero

Brendan SainsburyWestern Central Highlands An expat Brit now living near Vancouver, Canada, Brendan first went to Mexico in the 1990s on an ill-conceived long-distance bike ride from Veracruz to Mexico City. Having survived manic driving, thin air and a minor earthquake, he went back in 2004 to get married on a Pacific beach. This book is his second Mexican sojourn for Lonely Planet, although he has also re-searched and written guides to Cuba, Spain, Peru and Jamaica. When not climb-

ing youthful volcanoes or searching for enlightenment in pre-Hispanic ruins, Brendan likes relaxing with his flamenco guitar, watching Dr Who and following the exploits of Southampton Football Club.

Andy SymingtonCentral Pacific Coast Australian and based in Spain, Andy is a widely experienced guidebook author who has written or co-written more than 100 titles with Lonely Planet and other publishers. Latin America is one of his life passions: on this trip he revelled in the superb Pacific coast seafood and tried to catch as many sun-sets as possible from just beyond the breakers.

Phillip TangMexico City, Around Mexico City A degree in Latin American studies brought Phillip Tang to these shores, and over a decade later he calls Mexico City home, between stints living in Sydney and London. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Korea, Peru and Mexico. Find his Mexico Insta-photos from this visit through philliptang.co.uk.

Lucas Vidgen Chiapas & Tabasco, Yucatán Peninsula Lucas first visited Mexico back in 2002, breezing through the Yucatán long enough to be captivated by the lush scenery and irresistible food. Later he moved to Guatemala, which served as a good base for exploring Chiapas and the rest of the Mundo Maya. Lucas has contributed to a variety of Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Central and South America. Back home he publishes – and very occasionally works on – Quetzaltenango’s leading night-

life magazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98315th edition – September 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 023 9© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJohn Noble Oaxaca John has been making extended trips to Mexico for over three decades and has had a big hand in every edition of this guide since edition 3, wandering from Tijuana to Chetumal and many, many places in between. He’s climbed volcanoes, boated down jungle rivers, explored the barrios of Mexico City and understood why Oaxacans revere mezcal, and he’s already looking forward to the next trip. Originally from England’s Ribble Valley, John has lived

for 20 years in the land of Mexico’s old colonial masters, Spain.John also wrote Mexico Today, History, The Arts, Landscapes & Wildlife, Exploring Mexico’s Ancient Ruins and several other Plan Your Trip chapters.

Kate ArmstrongNorthern Central Highlands As Australian as a kangaroo, but a Latina (she believes) in a former life, Kate visits Mexico regularly. Covering the silver cities for the fifth time for Lonely Planet, she headed to festivals, hiked gorges in Sierra Gorda, and ate kilos of gorditas (filled dough pockets). She plunged over, in and under every waterfall in the Huasteca Potosina, and talked, danced and ate her way through the magic of Mexico. She is a freelance travel writer; see www.

katearmstrongtravelwriter.com and twitter @nomaditis. Kate also contributed to The Mexican Kitchen chapter and several Plan Your Trip chapters.

Stuart ButlerVeracruz Stuart first traveled to Mexico in the late 1990s as part of a longer trip through Latin America. Mexico stood out for him thanks to its heady mix of beaches, wildlife, surf, mountains and a rich culture, and he has since made a number of repeat visits. Hailing from southwest England Stuart now lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest France, close to the Spanish border, with his wife and young son and daughter. He is also the co-author of many Spain-

based Lonely Planet books.

John HechtYucatán Peninsula John has spent more than 20 years down Mexico way, during which time he has contributed to numerous editions of Lonely Planet’s Mexico and Central America books. Among the most recent titles, he has worked on the past two editions of LP’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán. He also wrote and produced a series of short-form videos in the Yucatán for Lonely Planet TV. Mom is starting to give up hope that he’ll ever return to the good ol’ USA.

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’