behind the scenesbehind the scenesmedia.lonelyplanet.com › shop › pdfs ›...
TRANSCRIPT
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
27 727 7
WRITER THANKSOliver BerryAs always, huge thanks to the many people who helped out with advice, suggestions and tips for new material, with an extra special shout out for Justin Foulkes, Sarah Bennett, Mark Sharham, Nigel Mortimer, Laura Hicks, Heidi Fitzpatrick and Another Place. Extra thanks to James Smart for captaining the ship, to Susie Berry for apple tree shopping and much-needed lunches, and to Rosabella for many happy days exploring Kernow with me.
Belinda DixonResearching a place is a real joint effort. It’s the result of B&B, bar and hotel staff who share their recommendations; tourist office workers who share
their knowledge; random strangers who share their time and countless kindnesses. Huge thanks to all. And, again, to James Smart for the gig, Lonely Plan-et’s behind-the-scenes teams, and fellow authors and adventurers for humour, wisdom and travellers’ tales.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Salcombe, South Devon, Justin Foulkes/4Corners ©
Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes
THIS BOOKThis 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Devon & Cornwall guidebook was researched and written by Oliver Berry and Be-linda Dixon. Oliver and Belinda also wrote the previous two editions. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor James SmartProduct Editors Kate Kiely, Genna PattersonSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Janet Aus-tin, Janice Bird, Andrea Dob-bin, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Paterson
Assisting Cartographer Hunor CsutorosAssisting Book Designer Jessica RoseCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Carolyn Boicos, Kate Chapman, Catherine Din, Jeff Jacobs, Hannah Cartmel, Craig Kilburn, Julie Woods
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
278
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aabbeys
Buckland Abbey 112, 163, 225, 163, 225
Tresco Abbey Garden 163, 233, 163
accommodation 30-1, 266-8, see also individual locations
activities 19, 21-3, 35-9, 114-15, see also individual activities
alternative 39adventure sports 38
Bodmin Moor 148Falmouth 157Flushing 164Totnes 80
air travel 272, 273Alice in Wonderland 178amusement parks
Paignton Pier 71-2Anglo-Saxon rule 243-4animal sanctuaries
Donkey Sanctuary 63animals 263-4, see also
individual speciesAnstey’s Cove 73Antony House 178AONBs 162aquariums
Blue Reef Aquarium 198Ilfracombe Aquarium 135National Marine
Aquarium 104archaeological sites 224-5
Bant’s Carn 232Cheesewring 149Chysauster 214Dartmoor National
Park 118Halangy Down 232Hurlers, The 149
Lanyon Quoit 214Mên-an-tol 214Pipers, The 149Trethevy Quoit 149Troytown Maze 236
architecture 242-3Totnes 80
area codes 17, 271Areas of Outstanding
Natural Beauty 262
Arlington Court 137art courses 256
Penwith 223Arthur, King 149, 188arts 256-60, see also
individual artsarts centres
Exeter Phoenix 57Flavel (Dartmouth) 86Plymouth Arts Centre 108
arts festivals 257Ashburton 116-17Asparagus Island 229Atlantic Highway 186-9ATMs 270
BBabbacombe Model Village
70-1Bakelite Museum 131B&Bs 30-1Bantham 90, 95, 90-1Barbara Hepworth Museum
210Barbican 104Barnstaple 137-8Baskerville, Henry 113bathrooms 271Bayard’s Cove 83beaches 18, 90-1
Bantham beach 90, 95, 90-1
Beer 64, 129Blackpool Sands 84Bossiney Haven 188
Braunton Burrows 137Bryher 235Bude 186Chapel Porth 201, 201Constantine Bay 189Cornwall 194Devon 90-1Falmouth 156Fowey 173-4Godrevy 213-14Great Bay 237Gwithian 213-14Kynance Cove 228Land’s End 215-16Looe 176Mevagissey 173Newquay 196-7, 115Northam Burrows 137Padstow 190-1Poldhu Cove 228Polzeath 193Porth Joke 200Porthmeor Beach 210Porthminster Beach 212,
194-5Rame Peninsula 177-8Roseland peninsula
169, 170Rosemoor 134, 91safety 269Salcombe 92Slapton Sands 87St Ives 210-11St Mary’s 231-2Torquay 73Trebarwith Strand 188Trevaunance Cove 201,
183Trevellas Porth 202
Beacon 201Beacon Cove 75Bedruthan Steps 199beer 254Beer 64-5, 129, 2, 129Beer Quarry Caves 64Beer Regatta 23
Berry Pomeroy 83Betjeman, Sir John 258bicycle travel, see cycling
273Bigbury-on-Sea 96-7Bill Douglas Cinema
Museum 52birdwatching 263
Exmoor Owl & Hawk Centre 132
Hayle Estuary 212Lizard, the 223Mullion 228Northam Burrows 137St Mary’s 232Topsham 60
Blackmore, Richard 258Blackpool Sands 84, 90, 90Blue Hills Tin Stream 202Blue Reef Aquarium 198Boardmasters 22, 199boat travel 273, 274boat trips
Bryher 235Cornwall 194Dartmouth 84, 85Exmouth 62, 62-3Falmouth 157Grand Western Canal 65Helford River 165Ilfracombe 135Looe 176Padstow 191Plymouth 106Salcombe 93-4St Agnes 236St Ives 212St Mary’s 232Topsham 60Truro 166
Bodinnick 152Bodmin 43, 140, 144, 141
activities 140climate 140food 140highlights 141travel seasons 140
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
279IN
DEX B
- DBodmin Moor 144-9, 141,
142, 146, 147, 195 itineraries 142-3
Bodmin & Wenford Railway 145
Bonfire Night 23Booby’s Bay 189books 240, 258, 260Boscastle 187-8Bossiney Haven 188Bramley, Frank 256Branscombe 51, 64Branscombe Mouth 48, 49Braunton 135Braunton Burrows 137breweries 254Brexit 241, 249Britannia Royal Naval
College 83Brixham 76-7Broomhill Sculpture
Gardens 137Brown Willy 145Brunel, Isambard Kingdom
108Bryher 234-6, 234Buckland Abbey 112, 163,
225, 163, 225Bude 186-7Bude Sea Pool 186budgeting 16-17, 31Burgh Island 96burrows 137bus travel 33, 272-3, 274-5business hours 17, 270butterflies 264Butterwalk 83
CCadgwith 229Caerhays Castle 173Camborne 203Camel Trail 191Camel Valley Vineyard
144-5camping 20, 31, 266canoeing
Falmouth 157Kingsbridge 88Tamar Valley 179Totnes 80
Cape Cornwall 217Cardinham Woods 144Carn Brea 203Carne beach 169Carnglaze Caverns 149car travel 32-4, 273, 275-6,
see also road tripscar hire 32road rules 32
Castle Drogo 117castles 244
Berry Pomeroy 83Caerhays Castle 173Castle Drogo 117Dartmouth Castle 83Dunster Castle 130-1Launceston Castle 148Pendennis Castle 156Powderham Castle 54Restormel Castle 172St Mawes Castle 169Tintagel Castle 188Totnes Castle 79-80
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
Causley, Charles 258caves & tunnels 52
Beer Quarry Caves 64Carnglaze Caverns 149Kents Cavern 70Merlin’s Cave 188Underground
Passages 52Cawsand 178cell phones 271Celtic rule 242-3Central Moor 145-8Chagford 117-18Chapel Porth 201, 201Chapel Street 218Charles, Princes 83cheese 253, 252Cheesewring 147, 149, 147children, travel with 40-1choughs 263Christie, Agatha 75, 82,
82-3, 258walking tour 75, 75
Church Cove 227churches & cathedrals
Church of St Senara 218Exeter Cathedral 10, 52St Enodoc Church 193St Winwaloe 227Truro Cathedral 166
Chysauster 214cider 253cinemas 260
Kingsbridge 89Totnes 81Truro 168
City of Lights festival 23, 166
clapper bridgesPostbridge 113
Clay Trails 172Cleeve Abbey 131
Cliff Railway 133climate 21-3, 268, 16 see
also individual regionsClovelly 15, 128, 138-9, 5,
15, 128Coast to Coast Cycle
Trail 165Cockington Country
Park 71Coleton Fishacre 82, 86Colliford Lake 149Constantine Bay 189Cook, Beryl 258cooking courses 254
Padstow 191Roseland Peninsula 170wild food 214
Cookworthy Museum of Rural Life 88
Cornish language 242Cornish Orchards 149Cornish pasties 15, 251, 15Cornish Seal Sanctuary
165Cornwall basics 16-17costs 270Cotehele 145-8Cotehele Mill 148courses
art 223, 256cooking 254foraging 214
Crackington Haven 186cream teas 250, 251, 252,
252credit cards 270Croyde 136-7, 15Crusades, the 82culture 256-60currency 16cycling 36-7, 115, 273-4,
115, see also cycling tours
Bude 186Camel Trail 191Coast to Coast Cycle
Trail 165Dartmoor National Park
100, 109, 110, 100Exe Valley Way 59Exmoor National Park
126Great Flat Lode Trail 203North Devon 123St Mary’s 232Tamar Valley 179
cycling toursGranite Way 100, 100Tarka Trail 123, 123
DDart Valley Trail 83Dartington Estate 79Dartington International
Summer School & Festival 80
Dartmoor National Park 10, 43, 98-103, 109-19, 147, 99, 110, 2, 10, 147
activities 109-11archeological sites 118climate 98cycling tour 100food 98highlights 99itineraries 102-3military use 109tourist information 111travel seasons 98travel to/from 111-12viewpoints 98warnings 109woodlands 116
Dartmoor Prison Museum 113
Dartmouth 14, 82-7, 84, 14Dartmouth Castle 83Dartmouth Food Festival 85Dartmouth Museum 83Dartmouth Royal Regatta 22Dartmouth Steam Railway
(Torquay) 73Dartmouth Steam Railway &
Riverboat Company 84Davy, Humphry 245Dawlish Warren 78Daymer Bay 189, 193Dead Man’s Folly 83deer 263Devon basics 16-17Devon County Show 22Devonshire teas 250, 251,
252, 252disabilities, travellers
with 271distilleries 100, 254Dittisham 97, 96diving 38, 238Doc Martin 186, 189Dodman Point 173dolphins 264Donkey Sanctuary 63-4Douglas, Bill 52Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan
109, 258D’Oyly Carte family 86Dozmary Pool 149Drake, Sir Francis 104Drake’s Drum 112
280
IND
EX D- H
Drewe, Julius 117drinks 253-4, see also pubsdriving 32-4, 273, 275-6
see also road tripsdu Maurier, Daphne 258Dulverton 127-30Dunster 130-1Dunster Castle 130-1
EEast Cornwall 43, 140-9, 141
activities 140climate 140food 140highlights 141travel seasons 140
East Devon 42, 46-51, 59-65, 47, 48
climate 46food 46highlights 47history 46itineraries 50-1travel seasons 46
East Pool Mine 203economy 240, 241, 248,
249Eden Project 9, 163, 171-2,
8-9, 162, 171 Eden Sessions 22Edgcumbe, Earls of 178Edinburgh, Duke of 83electricity 269Elizabethan Garden 80Elizabeth, Queen 83environmental issues
241, 262erosion 262events 21-3Excalibur 149exchange rates 17Exe Valley Way 59Exeter 42, 52-9, 47, 53, 55
activities 54climate 46drinking 56-7entertainment 57food 46, 54-6history 46nightlife 56-7shopping 57-8sights 52-4tourist information 58tours 54
travel seasons 46travel to/from 58-9travel within 59walking tour 55, 55
Exeter Cathedral 10, 52, 11, 57
Exeter Livestock Market 52Exeter Quay 52Exford 131Exminster Marshes Nature
Reserve 59Exmoor National Park 12,
120-1, 126-34, 121, 12, 147
activities 126-7climate 120food 120highlights 121stargazing 127tourist information 127travel seasons 120travel to/from 127travel within 127walking 126-7wildlife 120
Exmoor Owl & Hawk Centre 132
Exmouth 61-2
FFalmouth 156-61, 158
drinking 159-60events 157festivals 157food 157-8nightlife 159-60shopping 161sights 156-7tourist information 161travel to/from 161travel within 161
Falmouth Oyster Festival 23, 157
Fal River 156farmers markets 255farms 241, 250
camping 31Roskillys Farm 228Trevaskis Farm 214Troytown Farm 236Veronica Farm 236Little Arthur Farm 238
Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh 59, 60, 104, 250
ferries 274, 274 see also individual regions
festivals 21-3arts 219, 257Dart Music 85
fireworks 106food 85, 157, 166, 219,
227literature 175, 257music 157surfing 199
film 260Finch Foundry 118Fingle Woods 116fishing 240
Beer 64Brixham 77
Fish Market (Brixham) 76Fistral 196Flora Day 226Flushing 164food 19, 240, 250-5
cheese 253, 252cream teas 250, 252,
252Cornish pasties 15,
251, 15foraging courses 170, 214Forbes, Stanhope 256fossils 262Fowey 152, 173, 174, 194Fowey Festival 22foxes 263Frenchman’s Creek 229,
230
GGabo, Naum 257galleries 257
Exchange 218Leach Pottery 210Newlyn Art Gallery 221Tate St Ives 210
gardens 18, 90, 91Broomhill Sculpture
Gardens 137Cockington Country
Park 71Cornwall 194Devon 90-1Eden Project 9, 163,
171-2, 8-9, 162, 171Elizabethan Garden 80Enys Gardens 160Falmouth 160Garden House 112Glendurgan 165Lost Gardens of Heligan
12, 163, 172, 12, 163Penjerrick 160Potager 160Rosemoor 134, 91southwest 162-3Torre Abbey Gardens 71
Trebah Garden 164-5Trelissick 168Tremenheere Sculpture
Garden 219Trengwainton 218Tresco Abbey Garden
163, 233, 163gay travellers 269-70Geevor Tin Mine 217geography 261-2geology 261-2Gidleigh Park 117gig racing 232gin 254glamping 20, 31Glasney College 164Glendurgan 165Godolphin 226Godrevy Towans 4, 14,
213-14, 14 Golant 173Golden Hind 77Golitha Falls 148, 146Golowan Festival 22, 219Goonhilly Downs 228Grahame, Kenneth 258Graham, Winston 260Grand Western Canal 65Granite Way 100Great Bay 237Great Cornish Food Festival
166Great Flat Lode Trail 203Greenway 82-3Grey Wethers 118Grimspound 117, 118Gugh island 236Guildhall (Totnes) 80Gunwalloe 227Gwithian 14, 213-14, 14Gyllyngvase Beach 156
HHamada, Shoji 257Harlyn Bay 191Hartland Abbey 139Hartland Peninsula 139Hartland Point 139Hartland Quay 139Hayle Estuary 212health 270Helford River 164-5,
229-30Helford Village 230Hell’s Mouth 213Helston 226Helston Folk Museum 226Henry VIII 79, 156, 169
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
281IN
DEX H
-M
Hepworth, Barbara 257museum 210
Heritage Museum (Polperro) 175
heritage siteschild-friendly 41
Higher Moorland Visitor Centre 113
hiking, see walkingHirst, Damien 134-5, 258,
136historic buildings 20
A La Ronde 61Antony House 178Arlington Court 137Britannia Royal Naval
College 83Buckland Abbey 112, 163,
225, 163, 225Butterwalk 83Castle Drogo 117Cotehele 145-8Cotehele Mill 148Finch Foundry 118Hartland Abbey 139Lanhydrock 144Mount Edgcumbe 178Old Post Office
(Tintagel) 188Overbeck’s 92Pencarrow House 144Port Eliot 178Trerice 197Watermill 131
historic housesColeton Fishacre 86Cotehele 145-8Dartington Estate 79Godolphin 226Greenway 82-3Hartland Abbey 139Lanhydrock 144Pencarrow House 144Trelissick 168
historic sitesChapel Street 218Cleeve Abbey 131Clovelly Historic
Village 138Levant Mine & Beam
Engine 217Morwellham Quay 112Port of Charlestown 172South Hallsands 87
history 242-9Anglo-Saxon rule 243-4books 244Celtic rule 242-3Industrial Age 247-8
Industrial Revolution 245Middle Ages 244-5Roman rule 243smuggling & free
traders 246Spanish Armada 245-6WWII 248
Holywell Bay 197-8Hope Cove 95horse racing
Newton Abbot Races 87horse riding 38-9, 115, 114
Bodmin Moor 145Dartmoor National
Park 110Exmoor National Park
126-7, 14hotels 30Hound of the Baskervilles,
the 109, 113Hound Tor 2Hurlers, The 149
IIlfracombe 134-6, 136Ilfracombe Aquarium 135Industrial Age 247-8Industrial Revolution 245inns 31insurance 270, 275internet access 270internet resources 17, 39,
41, 267, 270Isles of Scilly 9, 44, 204-5,
230-8, 205, 231, 9climate 204food 204highlights 205travel seasons 204travel to/from 230-1viewpoints 204
itineraries 24-9, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28-9
Bodmin Moor 142-3Dartmoor National Park
102-3Dartmouth to
Kingsbridge 68-9East Devon 50, 50-1North Coast 184-5North Devon 124-5Penwith 208-9Roseland Peninsula
154-5
JJackson, Kurt 258jellyfish 264
Kkayaking 37-8
Exe Valley Way 59Falmouth 157Fowey 174-5Roseland Peninsula 170Salcombe 93St Martin’s 238Totnes 80
Kents Cavern 70King Edward Mine 203Kingsand 178Kingsbridge 88-9Kingswear 82kitesurfing 37
Exmouth 62Knightshayes Court 61Kynance Cove 228-9, 19
LLake, Lady of the 149lakes & reservoirs
Colliford Lake 149Dozmary Pool 149Loe Pool 226
landmarksPlymouth Hoe 104St Michael’s Mount 223Tarr Steps 127-30Verity(i) 134-5
Land’s End 206, 215, 215, 207
Langley, Walter 256language 16, 242Lanhydrock 144, 195, 195Lansallos 174Lantic Bay 174, 194, 194Lanyon Quoit 214, 225, 225Launceston Castle 148Lawrence, DH 258, 260Leach, Bernard 210, 257Leach Pottery 210Lenkiewicz, Robert 178,
258lesbian travellers 269-70Levant Mine & Beam
Engine 217lighthouses
Bishops Rock Lighthouse 236
Longships Lighthouse 215
Smeaton’s Tower 104literature 258, 260literature festivals 257Living Coasts 70Lizard Lighthouse Heritage
Centre 229
Lizard Peninsula 13, 223-30, 13
Lizard Point 228-9lobsters 191Loe Pool 226Logan Rock 216Longships Lighthouse 215Looe 176-7Looe Island 176Looe Music Festival 23Lost Gardens of Heligan 12,
163, 172, 12Lundy Island 138Lutyens, Sir Edwin 117luxury hotels 30Lydford 118Lydford Gorge 118Lyme disease 270Lyn & Exmoor Museum 133Lynmouth 133-4Lynton 133-4
MMadron Holy Well 219Maenporth Beach 156maps 270Marazion 223Maritime Museum 92markets 255
Exeter Livestock Market 52-3
Fish Market (Brixham) 76
Lemon St Market (Truro) 169
Plymouth Fish Market 104
Totnes Market 82Mason’s Arms 64Maurier, Daphne du 229May Day 191Mayflower 104Mayflower Museum 104Mayflower Steps 104Mên-an-tol 214menhirs 118, 214, 236, 242Merlin’s Cave 188Merrivale Stone Rows, 118,
225, 225Mevagissey 173Middle Ages 244-5Minack Theatre 13, 216,
260, 13, 259mining 241, 247-8, 249
East Pool Mine 203Geevor Tin Mine 217King Edward Mine 203Levant Mine & Beam
Engine 217
282
IND
EX M- P
mobile phones 16, 271money 16, 17, 269, 270monkeys 176Mont St Michel, see St
Michael’s MountMoore, Henry 79moors 146-7, 146-7, see
also Bodmin MoorMoretonhampstead 117Morris, Cedric 257Morwellham Quay 112motorcycle travel 273,
275-6motoring organisations 32Mount Edgcumbe 178Mount Pleasant Eco Park
202-3Mousehole 129, 222-3, 129Mullion 227-8museums
Babbacombe Model Village 70-1
Bakelite Museum 131Barbara Hepworth
Museum 210Bill Douglas Cinema
Museum 52Brixham Heritage
Museum 77Cookworthy Museum of
Rural Life 88Dartmoor Prison
Museum 113Dartmouth Museum 83Flood Memorial 133Helston Folk Museum
226Heritage Museum
(Polperro) 175Higher Moorland Visitor
Centre 113Isles of Scilly Museum
231Lizard Lighthouse
Heritage Centre 229Lyn & Exmoor Museum
133Maritime Museum 92Mayflower Museum 104Museum of British
Surfing 135Museum of Witchcraft &
Magic 187National Lobster
Hatchery 191National Maritime
Museum 156
Penlee House Gallery & Museum 218
Porthcurno Telegraph Museum 216
RAMM 52Royal Albert
Memorial Museum 52Royal Cornwall Museum
166Sidmouth Museum 63Teignmouth & Shaldon
Museum 78Topsham Museum 60Torquay Museum 71Totnes Fashion & Textile
Museum 80music 240Mylor 164
NNanjizal 215-16Nash, David 219National Lobster
Hatchery 191National Marine Aquarium
104National Maritime Museum
(Falmouth) 156national parks & reserves
262Dartmoor National Park
10, 109-19Exminster Marshes
Nature Reserve 59Exmoor National Park
12, 120-1, 126-34, 121, 12, 147
Slapton Ley 87Wingletang Down 236
Newcomen, Thomas 245Newlyn 221-2Newlyn Art Gallery 221Newlyn Fish Festival
23, 219Newlyn School of Artists
256-7Newquay 44, 180-1, 196-
200, 181, 197activities 198-9beaches 180climate 180events 199festivals 199food 180, 199-200highlights 181sights 196-8surfing 115, 115tourist information 200travel seasons 180travel to/from 200
Newquay Zoo 197-8newspapers 267Newton Abbot Races 87Nicholson, Ben 257Norman Lockyer
Observatory 51, 63Northam Burrows 137North Cornwall 44, 180-
203, 181beaches 180climate 180food 180itineraries 24, 184-5, 24travel seasons 180walking tours 182, 182
North Devon 43, 120-3, 134-9, 121
burrows 137climate 120highlights 121itineraries 124-5walking tour 122, 122wildlife 120
Northern Moor 144-5
O‘Obby ‘Oss Day 21, 191observatories 51, 63Oddicombe Beach 73Okehampton 118-19Okehampton Castle 119,
119Oliver, Jamie 250opening hours 17, 270otters 148, 264outdoor activities 114-15,
see also individual activities
Overbeck’s 92
PPadstow 189-93, 190
activities 191courses 191drinking 192events 191-2festivals 191-2food 192nightlife 192sights 189-91
Paignton 70Paignton Pier 71-2Paignton Zoo 70painting 256-8paths, see trails & pathsPebblebed Vineyard 60, 58Pencarrow House 144Pendennis Castle 156
Pendennis Point 156Pendower 169Penjerrick 160Penlee House Gallery &
Museum 218Penryn 164-5Penwith Peninsula 208-9,
214-18, 208, 215Penzance 218-21, 220Perranporth 200-1Pipers, The 149planning 16-17, see also
individual regionsaccommodation 30calendar of events 21-3children 40-1Cornwall’s regions 42-4Devon’s regions 42-4itineraries 24-9, 24travel seasons 21-3
Plymouth 43, 98-9, 104-9, 99, 105
activities 106climate 98coastal hikes 107drinking 107-8entertainment 108events 106festivals 106food 98, 106highlights 99nightlife 107-8sights 104-6tourist information 108tours 106travel seasons 98travel to/from 108travel within 109viewpoints 98
Plymouth Fish Market 104Plymouth Gin Distillery 104Plymouth Hoe 104Plymouth Naval Memorial
106Poldark 216, 260Poldhu Cove 228politics 241Polkerris Beach 173pollution 262Polo on the Beach 22Polperro 175-6Polruan 152, 153Polzeath 193Pomeroy, Lady Margaret 83ponies 263pools 186, 219, population 240, 241, 249Porfell Wildlife Park 176Porlock 132-3
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
283IN
DEX P
- TPorlock Weir 132, 132Port Eliot 178, 257, 259Port Eliot Festival 22,
257, 259Port Gaverne 189Port Isaac 188-9Porth Joke 200Port of Charlestown 172Port Quin 189Porthcothan 190Porthcurnick 170Porthcurno 216Porthcurno Telegraph
Museum 216Porthleven 227Porthleven Food Festival 21Porthmeor Beach 210,
194-5Porthminster Beach 194-5,
212Porthtowan 202-3Portreath 202-3Portscatho 169Postbridge 113-16Potager 160pottery 210Powderham Castle 54Predannack Wollas 228Princetown 113pubs 31, 194
Qquays
Exeter 52Hartland Quay 139
quoits 218, 224, 242Lanyon Quoit 214, 225,
225
Rradio 267railways
Babbacombe Cliff Railway 74
Bodmin & Wenford Railway 145
Dartmouth Steam Railway (Torquay) 73
Dartmouth Steam Railway & Riverboat Company 84
Lynmouth 133South Devon Steam
Railway 80Rame Head 178Rame Peninsula 177-9RAMM 52Royal Albert
Memorial Museum 52
Randall, Peter 79Readymoney Cove 173Redruth 203religion 241, 244-5reserves, see national
parks & reservesRestormel Castle 172Restronguet Creek 161River Cottage HQ 60River Fowey 173, 175, 146-7road rules 32road trips 34, 184-5, 34
Bodmin Moor 142-3Dartmoor 102-3, 102Dartmouth to
Kingsbridge 68-9, 68Dunster to Lynton 124-5,
124East Devon Coast
50-1, 50family fun 27, 27great estates 27, 27moors 124-5, 124North Coast 24, 24,
184-5, 184Penwith 208-9, 208Roseland Peninsula
154-5, 154South Devon 68-9, 68Southwest 25, 25West Country 26, 26
Roche Rock 172Rock (village) 193Roman rule 243Roseland Peninsula 154-5,
169-70itineraries 154-5
Rosemoor 134, 91Roskillys Farm 228Rough Tor 143Royal Albert Bridge 108Royal Cornwall Museum
166Royal Cornwall Show 22Royal Regatta 85Royal William Yard 106Rushy Bay 235
Ssafety 40, 268-9
beaches 269road 275-6snakes 270walking 269
sailing 38Dartmouth 85Falmouth 157Royal Regatta 85
Salcombe 93Torquay 74
Salcombe 92-5, 93Salty Monk 62Samson island 235Scorhill Stone Circle 118sculpture 256-8seafood 240, 251, 255seals 165, 264seaside villages 128-9Sennen 216-17Shaldon 78Shamrock 148sharks 264Sharpham Wine & Cheese
vineyard 81shepherding 130Sidmouth 63-4Sidmouth Folk Week
festival 22, 63Sidmouth Museum 63Slapton Ley 87Slapton Sands 87Smeaton’s Tower 104smuggling 246snakes 264, 270Soukop, Willi 79South Cornwall 43,
150-79, 151activities 150climate 150food 150highlights 151itineraries 154-5travel seasons 150walking tour 152-3, 152
South Devon 42, 66-97, 79-97, 67
climate 66driving tour 68-9food 66highlights 67itineraries 68travel seasons 66
South Devon Steam Railway 80
Southeast Cornwall 171-9South Hallsands 87South Hams 66South Milton Sands 94South West Coast Path 11,
35, 115, 126, 11, 115squirrels 264St Agnes 182, 201-2, 182, 2St Agnes Island 236-7St Austell 171-3St Columb Hurling 21St Enodoc Church 193St Ives 10, 210-13, 211, 10
St Ives School of artists 257
St Ives September Festival 23
St Just-in-Penwith 217St Martin’s 237-8St Martin’s Vineyard 238St Mary’s 231-3St Materiana 188St Mawes 169, 129St Michael’s Mount 12,
223, 12St Nectan’s Glen 187St Piran’s Day 21stand-up paddleboarding
37-8St Anthony’s Head 170stargazing
Exmoor National Park 127
Start Bay 87-8Start Point Lighthouse 88statues
Drake Statue 104Verity 134-5
Stein, Rick 250St-Just-in-Roseland 169Strangles 186Summerleaze 186sunburn 270surfing 37, 15, 115
Bigbury-on-Sea 96Bude 186Croyde 136-7, 15Ilfracombe 135Newquay 115, 115Sennen 217
Swanpool Beach 156swimming
Bude 186Dartmouth 85Ilfracombe 135Penzance 219Plymouth 106St Martin’s 238
TTalland Bay 176, 177Tamar Bridges 108Tamar Otter Wildlife Centre
148Tamar Valley 179Tarka Trail 123Tarr Steps, the 122, 127-30Tate St Ives 210Tavistock 112-13Tehidy Woods 203Teign Ferry 78
284
IND
EX T-Z
Teign Gorge 101Teignmouth 77-9Teignmouth & Shaldon
Museum 78telephone services 271theatre 260theatres
Bike Shed 57Hall for Cornwall 169Minack Theatre 216Theatre Royal 108
Thurlestone 94ticks 270time 16Tinside Lido 106Tintagel 188Tintagel Castle 188, 225,
224tipping 270toilets 271Tonks, Mitch 104Topsham 59-61Topsham Museum 60Torquay 42, 66, 70-6, 67,
72-3activities 73-4climate 66drinking 76events 74festivals 74food 66, 74, 76highlights 67nightlife 76sights 70-3travel seasons 66walking tour 75, 75
Torquay Museum 71Torre Abbey Sands 73Totnes 79-82Totnes Castle 79-80Totnes Fashion & Textile
Museum 80tourist information 271tours, see cycling tours,
road trips, walking tourstrails & paths, see also
walkingCamel Trail 191Clay Trails 172Coast to Coast Cycle
Trail 165Dart Valley Trail 83Exe Valley Way 59Great Flat Lode Trail 203Teignmouth to Dawlish
Warren 78
train travel 33, 273, 275, 276
transport 32-4travel seasons 16travel to/from Devon &
Cornwall 272-3travel within Devon &
Cornwall 273-6Trebah Garden 164-5Trebarwith Strand 188Tregirls Beach 190-1Trelissick Gardens 168Trerice 197, 198Tresco 233-4Tresco Abbey Garden 163,
233, 163Trethevy Quoit 149Trevaskis Farm 214Trevaunance Cove 201, 183Trevellas Porth 202Trevibban Mill 189Trevithick, Richard 245Trevose Head 190Treyarnon 191Troytown Maze 236, 237Truro 166-9, 167Truro Cathedral 166tunnels, see caves &
tunnelsTurner, JMW 256Turrell, James 219TV 260, 267
VValhalla collection 233vegan travellers 255vegetarian travellers 255Verity 134-5, 258, 136Veryan 170vineyards
Camel Valley vineyard 144-5
Pebblebed Vineyard 60, 58
Sharphan Wine & Cheese 81
Yearlstone Vineyard 56visas 16
WWadebridge 193-6walking 35-6, 115, 48, 115,
see also walking toursBodmin Moor 145Clovelly 138-9
Dartmoor National Park 36, 101, 111, 101
Exe Valley Way 59Exmoor 36Exmoor National Park
126-7Great Flat Lode Trail 203long-distance routes 36Lynton 133North Cornwall 182, 182safety 269South Cornwall 152, 152South West Coast Path
35, 115, 126, 115St Mary’s 232Teign Gorge 101Teignmouth 78Torquay 75Waipi‘o Valley 182-3
walking tours, see also individual locations
Beer to Branscombe 48Bodinnick 152East Devon 48-9Exeter 55Fowey 152North Devon 122Polruan 152St Agnes 182-3Tarr Steps 122Torquay 75West Cornwall 206-7
Wallis, Alfred 257War Horse 109water sports 37
Bodmin Moor 149Newquay 198-9Plymouth 106
waterfallsGolitha Falls 148Lydford Gorge 118St Nectan’s Glen 187
Watergate Bay 196Ways with Words (literary
festival) 80weather 21-3, 268, 16, see
also individual regionsWest Cornwall 44, 204-23,
205climate 204food 204highlights 205itineraries 26, 26travel seasons 204viewpoints 204
whales 264
Wheal Coates 201, 2Whitesand Bay 177whitewater rafting 37, 111‘Widecombe Fair’ 116Widecombe-in-the-Moor
116Widemouth Bay 186wild food 214Wild Futures Monkey
Sanctuary 176wildlife parks & reserves
264Dawlish Warren 78Exmoor Owl & Hawk
Centre 132Exmoor Pony Centre 130Goonhilly Downs 228Hayle Estuary 212Northam Burrows 137Tamar Otter Wildlife
Centre 148Wild Futures Monkey
Sanctuary 176wild swimming 38wildlife 37, 263-4, see also
individual speciesWilliamson, Henry 258windsurfing 37wineries 253
Camel Valley Vineyard 144-5
Pebblebed Vineyard 60Polgoon 219St Martin’s Vineyard 238Trevibban Mill 189
Wistman’s Wood 116witchcraft 245Wood, Christopher ‘Kit’ 257World Pilot Gig
Championships 21, 232WWII 83, 248Wynter, Billy 219
YYearlstone Vineyard 56
ZZennor 217-18Zennor Hill 218zoos
Living Coasts 70Newquay Zoo 197-8Paignton Zoo 70Porfell Wildlife Park 176
zorbing 199
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
285N
OTES
286
NO
TES
Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!
SOR
INA
CH
IRITA
LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE
287
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541534th edition – January 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 253 0© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSOliver BerryCornwall Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award.
Oliver also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand chapters. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.
Belinda DixonDevon Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise, scrambling up Italian mountain paths, horse riding across Donegal’s golden sands, kayaking down south Devon rivers, gazing at Verona’s frescoes, and fossil hunting on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast.
Belinda is also an adventure writer – which has seen her trek the Himalayas, scale Scottish moun-tains in a snow storm, climb Dartmoor crags, surf and swim in England’s winter seas, become addicted to SUP and sleep out under the stars. See her blog posts at https://belindadixon.com.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’