cerro aconcagua (22,841’) - mountain guides · cerro aconcagua (22,841’) false polish guanacos...

International Mountain Guides www.mountainguides.com email: [email protected]

PO Box 246 31111 SR 706 E Ashford, WA 98304 phone: (360) 569-2609 fax: (866) 279-7455

Cerro Aconcagua (22,841’) False Polish Guanacos Variation Route 2020 International Mountain Guides

Aconcagua at sunset (Rob Jantzen) International Mountain Guides is the oldest and most respected high-altitude guide service in the world and has been operating successfully since 1975. The partners at IMG, Phil Ershler, Eric Simonson, and George Dunn, have lead and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide. Each is an AMGA certified alpine guide with Himalayan experience including Mt. Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu. IMG’s Aconcagua programs are organized and directed by Phil Ershler. Phil has led and organized literally hundreds of international expeditions including dozens to Aconcagua. In choosing International Mountain Guides for your Aconcagua climb, you are choosing the highest quality expedition, the most capable and qualified guides, and a highly personalized guide service that strives to limit risk and maximize success as our two main priorities. Of course, we’ll have some fun, too! International Mountain Guides has been guiding on Aconcagua continuously for longer than any other guide service. In fact, we were one of the first companies to pioneer the Relinchos Valley route more than thirty years ago when there was almost no one on Aconcagua. We also had some of the first guides in the Guanacos Valley. Over the course of almost 40 years IMG has had one of the highest, if not the highest success rates for reaching the top. The reason our success rate is so high is not an accident. We intentionally do not run dozens of Aconcagua expeditions a year, nor do we run hundreds of clients through our program. We focus on a personalized, professional experience. We want to build a relationship with our clients and give them the best possible service, with the highest chance of success. Also, our guides simply love to summit! There IS a difference between our expeditions and those of other

Aconcagua: Just The Facts Summit:

22,841' • 6962m Set Your GPS:

32° 39' S • 70° 14' W

Sizing Up:

Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Western hemisphere.

First Boot-Prints on Top:

Mathias Zurbiggen, became the first to climb Aconcagua on an 1897 expedition organized by Edward Fitzgerald who never got to the top.

First by the Polish:

The Polish Glacier was first climbed in March 1934 by the Polish team of Otrowski, Narkiewicz, Daszinski, and Osiecki on the 8th successful ascent of the mountain.

By Any Other Name:

Aconcagua means "The White Sentinel" in Quechua and "The Sentinel of Stone" in Aymara.

Bring A Jacket:

Temperatures range from balmy to -25°C, but frequent and severe winds can take the windchill to -15°C. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean brings frequent storms to Aconcagua, and a particular phenomenon on the mountain is a strong, humid wind that engulfs the peak from the west at high altitude (above 18,000') forming a huge mushroom cloud of micro ice-crystals. Locals consider it highly advisable to descend when this formation is visible.

Don’t Provoke the Wildlife:

The Guanaco is a large mammal that lives in South America and is related to the llama. It lives in the mountains, eats mostly grass and spits when provoked.

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Cerro Aconcagua with IMG: page 2 of 12



guide services. We welcome you to look more closely at what we offer and see why we are the company for you. We have an impeccable record of client care and an unmatched success rate due to the expertise and professionalism of our IMG leadership and guides. We feel that our guides are an integral part of our program and help to create an unforgettable experience for you. Thus, IMG employs only world-class guides who adhere to strict American and International guiding standards. IMG is an American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) accredited guide service.

Descending to Plaza de Mulas basecamp (Rob Jantzen) WHY CHOOSE IMG FOR YOUR ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION? Climbing Aconcagua is serious business. We are very proud of the way we conduct ourselves and feel that we provide the best package available. We encourage you to contact us personally to discuss the details of our program. We know we are not the cheapest deal around, and we don’t want to be. We spend more providing the best personnel, equipment, logistics and risk mitigation – things that many lower-cost programs cannot afford and do not have. We don’t cut corners. We feel we provide the best value on the mountain, without question. We invite you to shop around and compare the quality of service with the price. There is a difference between our expeditions and the expeditions of our competitors and an enormous difference between us and local outfitters. Please consider the following:

1) IMG is the longest continuous guide service on Aconcagua. 2) IMG’s expedition success rate is one of the highest on the mountain, if not the highest. 3) Highly experienced guides 4) IMG is accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association. 5) Safety and success record 6) IMG offers a personalized service as well as professional office & travel support. 7) IMG’s logistics are unmatched. 8) IMG is the best value expedition. 9) IMG brings advanced technology including a satellite phone on every expedition. 10) IMG maintains a blog for friends and family while you’re on the mountain. 11) IMG guides are medically trained. 12) IMG expeditions take pride in on mountain meal menus. 13) All guides carry a Pulse-Oximeter. 14) We use the best mule and transportation support. 15) IMG complies with all local, state, federal and international regulations for the countries in which

we climb. 16) IMG offers an extended itinerary for better acclimatization and more contingency days for a

summit bid. 17) IMG Traverses the Mountain, avoiding retracing our approach. 18) IMG’s References 19) IMG is a licensed dealer of travel insurance



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ACONCAGUA: THE STONE SENTINAL AND TOP OF THE AMERICAS Aconcagua is truly one of the great mountains of the world. At 22,841 feet tall it is the highest mountain in the western hemisphere, and the tallest peak in the world outside of the Himalayas. Being one of the coveted seven summits it’s no wonder climbers flock from all over the globe each year to test their strength and abilities to tag the top. The mountain lies on the border between Argentina and Chile, gazing out over the southern Andean mountain range. Although there is no proof that the Incans ever summited Aconcagua it is generally accepted that they have at least been very high on the mountain. There is evidence of the Incas being at the top of many high Andean mountains and a well-preserved mummy was found at 17,060 feet along Aconcagua’s Southwest Ridge. However, the first non-native expeditions to the mountain didn’t begin until 1833 when a prominent German alpinist named Paul Gussfeldt made an unsuccessful attempt. The first successful summit didn’t come until 1896-97 when a team under the leadership of Edward FitzGerald placed one climber at the top of the peak. This was the renowned Swiss mountain guide Matthias Zurbriggen. The Great South Face of Aconcagua later fell to a French expedition under the leadership of Rene Ferlet in 1954, not long after the French summited the first of the 8000-meter peaks, Annapurna. Our expeditions will be staged in the unique and welcoming town of Mendoza, which offers all the amenities needed for a great stay. Argentina has a culture known for its great food and wine, relaxed nature, and hospitality. At International Mountain Guides we have spent years perfecting our logistics in order to offer you the best expedition possible, taking advantage of all the mountain and area have to offer. In doing so, we have created an almost unparalleled success rate while maintaining our flawless safety record. We welcome you to put your trust in International Mountain Guides. THE ROUTE All of our expeditions will ascend the mountain via the False Polish Route (Guanacos Variation) that IMG helped develop. This route is also referred to as the “360” since we will be circumnavigating the mountain. Traversing the mountain allows us to see more terrain and also have an extra contingency day for weather during the expedition should we need it. The descent down the Normal Route from our high camp avoids us having to retrace our approach and is a lot easier on the knees. The False Polish route begins with a three-day trek through the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys to reach Plaza Argentina, which will serve as our basecamp for the ascent. The Guanacos Route has been closed indefinitely for quite some time now for environmental reasons and the False Polish is a great alternative. Three camps will be established above Plaza Argentina to put the expedition in position for a summit attempt. The three camps are the Polish Glacier Camp 1 (16,372’), Guanacos Camp 2 (17,953’) and Cholera Camp 3 (19,587’). The camps we have chosen to use incorporate shorter carry and move days including better climbing terrain and will allow us to utilize the “climb high, sleep low” technique which has proven to be the accepted high-altitude mountaineering practice. We finish by traversing the mountain and descending the normal route to Plaza de Mulas via the Horocones Valley. This allows us to see a different side of the mountain, have an easier decent, and make for a shorter hike back out to the road. LEADERSHIP The expedition is organized by Phil Ershler. Phil was a member of the 1982 China-Everest Expedition, climbing leader of the Seven Summits Everest Expedition in 1983 and was the first American to climb the North Face of Everest on the 1984 China-Everest Expedition. Phil was also a member of the 1987 and 1990 K2 International Expeditions and climbed the North Face of Kangchenjunga on the 1989 American Kangchenjunga Expedition. He has guided on Mt.






Rainier for over 30 years and has led countless trips to Alaska, Mexico, South America, Russia, Africa, Asia and Antarctica. In May 2002, Phil and his wife, Susan, reached the summit of Mt. Everest making them the first couple ever to successfully complete the seven summits together. It also made Phil the first person to climb the Seven Summits twice. Phil is a partner at International Mountain Guides, a Certified Alpine Guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and a member of the American Alpine Club. Phil hand selects IMG guides to lead each expedition whom he feels will carry on the high standards that he has held himself to over the years. You can expect to have world-class guides who have plentiful international climbing experience, medical certifications and are all around great leaders. OUR GUIDES At International Mountain Guides we have some of the most qualified and experienced guides in the world. They are all extremely enjoyable to work with and lead expeditions adhering to the highest American and International guiding standards. We only hire guides that we have complete trust in. Most of our guides have long resumes of certifications beyond their even longer resumes of high-altitude climbing experience. They are an integral part of our company and continued success on Aconcagua. REFERENCES Joining a high-altitude expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before elsewhere in the world, and because your experience was good, you’ve decided to join us again. For those of you who haven’t climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past customers. We are happy to provide you with a complete list of references. IMG’s PHILOSOPHY Our goal is to minimize risk while helping as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the personnel and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premier international climbing company and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own highest standards. If you would like to join a world class team on Aconcagua, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our team. Our goal has always been to send our clients away with fond memories of and arduous but enjoyable expedition. Foremost, our concern while on the mountain is always minimizing risk, and we go out of our way to take all the necessary precautions to be able to deal with any situation that may occur while on the expedition. Our other main goal is to give our clients every reasonable chance of summiting. To achieve this second goal, we have chosen a slightly slower on-mountain schedule which allows all team members to acclimatize fully and naturally. We have inserted a few rest days into the itinerary which allows us to acclimatize naturally. We also have scheduled extra summit contingency days to give us more room to deal with inclement weather. The pursuit of these goals has allowed us an impeccable safety record and a success rate that is well above the average of other guided and non-guided mountain groups.

“I want to write to thank you for the great Aconcagua trip. It was the best climbing I ever had, both in terms of sheer pleasure, good companionship and as a learning experience...”

—John N.

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IMG climber nearing the summit of Aconcagua (Luke Reilly)

DATES: Dec 12, 2020 - Jan 3, 2021 (led by Jonathan Schrock) Jan 2-24, 2021 (led by Nickel Wood) Jan 23 - Feb 14, 2021 (led by Rikki Dunn) Feb 6-28, 2021 (led by Robert Jantzen)

LANDCOST: $5,750 US (plus $800-900 permit fee, depending on season) With a $1000 application fee required to confirm a reservation. Final payment must be received NO LATER than 90 days prior to the departure of the trip. Failure to do so may result in the loss of your reservation.

Landcost includes: • Guide fees • Double accommodations in hotels (3 total nights in

Mendoza, 1 in Penitentes) • Shared accommodations in tents • Group transportation • Group equipment including stoves and fuel, ropes, cooking gear, group first aid kit,

technical climbing equipment, radios, etc. • Mule support for Plaza Argentina approach and final exit day • One shared porter from C1, C2, and C3 to carry down group garbage and human

waste. • Meals while climbing except for snack items. Check out what guides prefer to eat in

the mountains: guide snack tips. Mendoza has a wide variety of food shopping options but bring your favorite items from home.

Landcost does not included: • International airfare including airport taxes • Aconcagua climbing permit (2018/2019 season estimated to be $900) • Meals while not climbing • Airport transfers in Mendoza • Personal porters • Personal clothing and climbing equipment included in the Aconcagua gear list. • REQUIRED Insurance: IMG requires that all international trip participants purchase

Travel Insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation, repatriation and medical expenses for the duration of their IMG program. Trip Cancellation Insurance is strongly recommended. Trekking and mountaineering programs are true "adventure travel."

• Guide gratuities

CANCELLATION/REFUNDS Cancellation and refund policies are discussed in the General Terms and Conditions sheet that was included in the sign-up documents package. We encourage you to read that information carefully. Business realities force us to strictly adhere to the conditions outlined in that document. We highly recommend purchasing Trip Cancellation Insurance to cover the various things that can interfere with your plans before or during your trip.



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A quiet night at Casa de Piedras (Rob Jantzen)

CLIMBING SKILLS Prior knowledge of ice axe arrest, cramponing and rope team travel is required. Past experience with cold weather camping, multi-day expeditions and some altitude experience is also quite helpful. This climb is not overly difficult technically but does require excellent physical conditioning and the ability to carry a heavy mountaineering pack. CONDITIONING You cannot over train for high altitude climbing. Concentrate on your heart, legs and lungs. If you are in a position to do any hiking or climbing at higher elevations, do so. An aerobic program of running hills, stair climbing, bicycling, etc. plus a conditioning program for quad, glute, and calf muscles is necessary. You will be better prepared, increase your chances of success and enjoy the trip more if you are properly prepared. Summit day on Aconcagua is as or more demanding physically than the summit day on Denali. EQUIPMENT The enclosed Equipment List is for your guidance. Most items are required, a few are optional. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand what its function is before you make any substitutions. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled after years of Aconcagua experience. If you have questions, please call. FOOD Breakfast, lunch and dinner will be provided to climbers for the first six days on the mountain, as well as the last two days after our summit attempt. While climbing above basecamp, IMG will provide breakfast and dinners and we ask each team member to bring his/her own snack food for in between these meals. The common phrase in the mountains is, “lunch starts after breakfast, and finishes right before dinner.” These snacks will be used during the hours on the trail and summit day. You should plan on bringing 8-10 days’ worth of snacks at about one pound per day. Hot drinks will be offered during group breakfasts and dinners which will include cocoa, tea, cider, coffee etc. Starbucks Via packets have become very popular in the mountains and if you’re a big coffee drinker make sure to throw a few in. Many food items will be brought down from the States, while other foods will be purchased in Argentina. Lower mountain menus, in particular, will be nicely supplemented with local foods. We will be accompanied on the trek into basecamp by local Gauchos (cowboys) who will prepare us a traditional Argentine Asado (bbq) of meats and vegetables over an open flame for our two nights in the Vacas Valley. Although Argentina is known for their beef, the Gauchos can prepare amazing vegetarian options as well with eggplants and squash. Individuals will be responsible for paying for their restaurant meals before and after our time on the mountain.






Sunrise on summit day

(Luke Reilly) Mules carrying loads to BC

(Luke Reilly) Horcones Valley

(Luke Reilly) WEATHER Aconcagua is a mountain of extremes. Historically, the best weather windows for an ascent of Aconcagua are December through February. Extremely hot weather can be expected on the approach, in the arid high-desert climate of the Vacas Valley as well as the final walk out in the Horocones Valley after the climb. As the group ascends higher on the mountain, very cold and windy weather should be expected. Chill factors high on the mountain can be as cold as those encountered on Denali. Our required equipment list reflects these extremes which will allow the team to show up prepared and ready for all conditions. MEDICAL INFORMATION Please consult with your physician regarding the immunizations and the drugs which are mentioned in the gear list. It is always nice to have a physician in the group, but we cannot guarantee one’s presence. Oxygen will not be available at any time during the expedition. Each team member must bring their own personal first aid kit containing frequently used items (see equipment list) and we will supply the group first aid kit. Each member should also bring a small bottle of iodine crystals or tablets for water purification. Steri-pens can be useful for the trek into basecamp but are not worth the extra weight higher on the mountain and should be left at basecamp. Additionally, each participant is responsible for providing his/her own medical insurance. None is provided for you. Please honestly inform us of any allergies or chronic medical problems on the Medical Information Form that was part of the sign-up forms package from the website. IMMUNIZATIONS No immunizations are currently required for entry into Chile or Argentina. Please consult your local health department for their recommendations. We do recommend that you consider the following: Tetanus/Diphtheria: There is no natural immunity to the tetanus toxin and since it is found

throughout the world, immunization is a universal recommendation regardless of age. A combined tetanus/diphtheria booster is available and good for 10 years.

Hepatitis Vaccine: New vaccines are available for both hepatitis A and B.

“I had the time of my life on Aconcagua. The trip was absolutely incredible two weeks that I will treasure for the rest of my life...”

—Nicky M.








PASSPORTS If you do not already have a passport, or if your current passport is due to expire within 6 months of the start date of the expedition, you must obtain a new one. A CURRENT PASSPORT IS REQUIRED FOR ENTRY INTO CHILE AND ARGENTINA. Also, if your passport is ‘well-traveled’, make sure there are blank pages available. Passport information is available from your main post office. We also suggest that you carry a photocopy of the front pages of your passport and a couple of extra passport photos. This simplifies replacement if a passport is lost. Carry these in a place separate from your passport. VISA INFORMATION Entry into Chile and Argentina no longer requires an advance visa. You will only be asked to fill out an embarkation/disembarkation card. Chile does have a fee for their entrance cards which is paid in Santiago and is currently $100. However, you will be in transit while you are in Chile and therefore are not required to pay this fee unless you plan to leave the airport. An embarkation card and your passport are required for entry into Argentina. In years past, US, Australian and Canadian citizens traveling to Argentina were required to pay a $160 reciprocity fee. As of January 1st, 2018, this reciprocity fee has been waived by the Argentine National Immigration Agency and no fee is required. Again, please make sure your passport is current. PACKING AND TRAVELING SUGGESTIONS Most of us will pack our gear in two duffle bags. Put your climbing pack in one of these bags. Most airlines limit checked luggage to two pieces each weighing no more than 50 lbs, depending on the airline. Use zip ties or TSA-approved locks to close the zipper tabs on your bags to prevent any pilfering. These are nice for your peace of mind. In addition to these two bags, it’s nice to use a small backpack as your carry-on. Try to pick a carry-on that can also be used as your day pack for the 3-day trek into basecamp and the trek out at the end of the trip. Mules will carry all of our equipment to basecamp, so this backpack should be large enough to carry items similar to what you would bring for a day hike. We also suggest that you purchase one of the many light money belts that are available or get one of the pouches that you can hang around your neck and place inside your shirt. This is a little safer way to carry your money and travel documents. Get to the airport early and make sure your luggage gets checked through to the correct destination. Also, make sure that your flight connections aren’t too tight. Lost luggage is a pain. Try to keep the number of connections to a minimum when you are making travel plans and use the same airline as much as possible. Leave expensive jewelry and watches at home. We would like everyone to have a wrist watch with an alarm along, they are quite handy. It’s convenient to have a pen with you for filling in travel forms. Although we will be wearing mountain clothing for the bulk of the expedition, bring along some casual clothing and nicer attire for meals out in Mendoza. Mendoza can be VERY warm so plan accordingly for the time spent there before and after our climb. Our accommodations in Mendoza have a pool, so don’t forget a swim suit and flip-flops.






INSURANCE AND TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS We invest in insurance coverage for commercial liability and medical and disability insurance for our employees while participating on our programs. We cannot insure you for your personal needs, but we do expect you to be as fiscally responsible as we are. We require that you insure yourself against potentially expensive difficulties that may arise. First, Trip Cancellation Insurance may provide financial relief should you be forced to withdraw from the program before it even happens. Next, make sure you have adequate Travel Insurance for coverage should you have a problem during the trip. Medical care and evacuation in remote locations can be expensive. For more information, please see our page on cancellation, rescue/repatriation insurance or contact the IMG Office. Seats can sometimes be in short supply to South America and flight schedules can change frequently. Because of this, we encourage you to make your reservations early. You can fly on Lan Chile from MIA or LAX to Santiago and then with Lan Chile from Santiago to Mendoza. International Mountain Guides has worked for many years with Ms. Pirjo Dehart and her staff at CTT Destinations to provide professional travel service for participants in our programs. We urge you to contact CTT Destinations at 800/909-6647 or [email protected] for help with your plans. The group will meet together officially on Day 2 of the trip itinerary at our hotel in Mendoza. Flight arrivals in Mendoza tend to be spread out which makes organizing a group shuttle next to impossible. For this reason, it’s best to just grab a taxi upon your arrival in Mendoza and head to the hotel where you will be greeted by your lead guide. Taxi drivers will except USD and you can exchange your currency easily once you reach the hotel. Our guides arrive in Argentina one day before the group to take care of last-minute shopping and gear prep. Remember, you are responsible for making all of your own flight arrangements. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION Cash should be carried in the form of U.S. dollars. Well-known credit cards are also accepted at better business establishments throughout the world. Plan to take about $500 for spending money. This is likely more than you’ll spend but it’s always nice to have extra dollars. You will also need to bring cash to pay for the Aconcagua permit that we will acquire in Mendoza prior to our expedition. The permit price for peak season in 2017/2018 was close to $900USD. We will let you know the expected permit fee for the 2018/2019 season when it becomes available to us. Bring crisp $100 bills to pay for your permit. Also, remember that final payment must be received no later than 90 days prior to the departure date of the trip and your Physicians Certificate (form 5) must be received 60 days prior to the departure of the trip. All checks should be made payable to International Mountain Guides and sent to our Ashford office. Wire transfer information will be provided for international climbers. We hope all this information will be helpful. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

“I think the route is an excellent way to experience all this great mountain has to offer. I had very high expectations for this adventure. And this experience lived up to those expectations in every way!” —Doug I.

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A rest day at Camp II (Rob Jantzen)

Aconcagua Itinerary – False Polish Guanacos Variation Route Most flights from the United States to Chile depart in the evening and fly through the night, this is considered Day 1 of the program. Day 2 consists of a short flight from Santiago over the Andes to the quaint town of Mendoza where the expedition will commence at the hotel. We will spend the afternoon in Mendoza doing gear checks and last-minute food shopping for the climb.

Once all preparations have been made and permits have been acquired in Mendoza, the group will travel to a small ski resort called Penitentes that is close to the starting point of our trek to basecamp. Mules will be hired to carry gear and food to base camp and members will carry only moderate loads to base camp. The approach takes three days. From here, we’ll use standard Denali tactics of climbing high and sleeping low on our attempt on Aconcagua. Several rest days are included. Following the climb, we’ll travel back to Mendoza where we’ll enjoy a celebratory team dinner, get some rest and be ready to fly home the next day. Day 01 Depart the United States, this is the date listed as the start date of your program. Day 02 Arrive in Santiago, fly to Mendoza. Hotel night included. Day 03 Additional day in Mendoza to secure the permit, pack and enjoy Mendoza. Day 04 Early departure for Los Penitentes. Day spent packing loads, resting and getting ready to start

our approach. Day 05 Drive to Punta del Vacas and begin approach march. Our first night on the trail will be at

Pampa de Leñas. Day 06 Continue approach march and spend the night at Casa de Piedras. Day 07 Reach the Plaza Argentina basecamp (13,800’). Day 08 Rest day at Plaza Argentina. Day 09 Carry to Camp I (16,372’). Day 10 Move to Camp I Day 11 Carry to Camp II(17,953’) via the Ameghino col. Day 12 Move to Camp II Day 13 Carry to Camp III/Cholera (19,587’) Day 14 Rest/acclimatization day at Camp II Day 15 Move to High Camp/Cholera Day 16 1st Potential summit day. Spend night at High Camp after summit. Day 17 Contingency Summit Day Day 18 Contingency Summit Day Day 19 Descend to Plaza de Mulas base camp (Normal Route) from High Camp Day 20 Hike out from Plaza de Mulas base camp to Penitentes Day 21 Drive from Penitentes to Mendoza and go out for a farewell dinner Day 22 Fly from Mendoza, Argentina Day 23 Arrive home Please Note: This is a probable but tentative itinerary. Our exact schedule may change depending on factors including weather and group ability.






Aconcagua Required Equipment List -- Please Read Carefully Item Examples/Notes Internal frame mountaineering backpack Minimum 80L 2 duffel bags Patagonia Black Hole, 120L Small carry-on/travel bag Black Dimaond Blitz 28 Ice Axe (60-70 cm) Petzl Glacier or Black Diamond Raven Crampons Petzl Vasak or Grivel G12’s Adjustable ski poles Black Diamond Expedition 3 Climbing Harness Petzl Altitude or Black Diamond Couloir Climbing Helmet Black Diamond Half Dome 1 locking and 1 non-locking carabiner Petzl Attache and Spirit Sleeping bag rated between 0F and -20F Feathered Friends Widgeon EX -10F Inflatable sleeping pad Therm-a-rest Neoair X-Therm Closed cell foam pad Therm-a-rest Z-Lite Double climbing boots La Sportiva Spantik or Baruntse Gaiters OR Crocodiles Light hiking shoes or boots La Sportiva Lycan GTX Sandals for river wading Chaco Classic 3 sets of wool climbing socks Smartwool PhD Outdoor Mountaineer 3 sets of light hiking socks Smartwool PhD Outdoor Light Mini Light hiking shirt OR Echo Tee Light hiking shorts and pants OR Equinox (men) or Ferrosi (women) 4 Pairs of synthetic underwear Dealer’s choice 2 sports bras (ladies) Patagonia Switchback Sports Bra Synthetic base layer for legs (long underwear)

OR Alpine Onset

Soft-shell climbing pants OR Cirque Waterproof Gore-Tex pants with full-length leg zippers

OR Furio

Insulated climbing pants Black Diamond Stance Belay 2 Synthetic upper body base layers OR Echo Hoody 1 or 2 medium weight insulating layers OR Uberlayer Soft-shell jacket OR Ferrosi Summit Insulated parka Feathered Friends Khumbu or similar Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket OR Optimizer Wool/fleece beanie hat that fits under your helmet

OR Booster Beanie

Light weight gloves OR Stormtracker Medium weight gloves OR Extravert Heavy weight gloves OR Alti Mitt or Black Diamond Guide Glove 3 Buffs Buff Original Sun hat OR Advocate Trucker Glacier glasses Julbo Explorer 2.0 Goggles Smith I/O Sunscreen and lip balm (at least 30 spf) Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch 2 wide-mouth Nalgene water bottles 1L bottles 2 water bottle insulating covers Forty Below Bottle Boot Thermos Hydroflask Pee bottle An old Gatorade bottle works well



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Female Urination Device Go Girl Plastic cup, bowl and spoon Lightweight and durable Headlamp with extra batteries Petzl Actik Camera Keep it light, and bring spare batteries Toiletries Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hand

sanitizer, toilet paper, Dr. Bronners soap Ear plugs Personal first aid kit:

• High altitude and travel medications: -Acetazolamide (14 tablets @ 125mg) -Dexamethasone (4 tablets @ 4mg) -Nifedipine (2 tablets @ 30mg) -Azithromycin (2 regimens)

• Aspirin • Antacids • Imodium • Moleskin or second skin for blisters • One roll of athletic tape • Band-aids

Consult with your doctor to acquire medications and to complete Form 5 in the application package.

Iodine for water purification Potable Aqua Pocket knife Victorinox Swiss Army Wenger Small travel towel REI Multi Towel Lite 5 Large trash compactor bags Hefty Steel Sacks Alarm wrist watch Treat yourself to a watch with an altimeter,

Suunto Vector Casual clothes Make sure to bring some comfortable

clothes for hanging out and going out to dinner. Leave the black tie/dress at home, but classier attire is appropriate at some of the meals we will be having in Mendoza. Don’t forget a bathing suit and flip flops.

“Phil, you did a great job at providing superb leadership, and it's only in hindsight that I realized how much I did learn in the several days that we all worked together. Your concern for safety and the well-being of the group was certainly expressed succinctly and in the end it paid dividends. But, what I particularly liked was your strong emphasis on the fact that we participate together as a team up to the top and back down. We succeeded, and in large part I think, it's due to the fact that you emphasized that we all do it together... ”

—Todd H.

“The professionalism demonstrated by IMG's guides as well as the high standards that they hold their clients up to maximized our chances of reaching the summit...”

—Greg Y.





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