colors for good magazine

A Magazine About the Rest of the World // A Guide to the Rest of Africa // Fall 2010 // Created for GOOD Magazine

\ Save Fish & Buy Necklaces a Trek on a Pony s Soccer for Peace d Use Camel Radar f Dance with the Dead g Internet Radio h Our Largest Exibition j Build an Urban Tent k Swag to Sega l Sandboard Away ; Catch a Wedding ' Spot Some Cheetas z Climb for Carvings x Become a Nollywood Star c Gawk at Gorillas v Take a Hike, Bub b Sing in Wolof n Wear Heavy Make-up m Hitchhike a New HIghway , Pick Up a Passport . Watch for Whales / Play Dirt Bottle ! That’s Some Sexy Beer @ Read Social Cartoons # Buy Dried Bats $ Behold the Bird Race % Spend High-Tech Cash ^ Make a Football & Learn to Eat Fried Worms

1 The Desert Marathon 2 Sneak Across Borders 3 Voodoo on Display 4 Meet Miss HIV, Stigma-Free 5 Catch a Film Festival 6 Forgiveness Radio 7 Preserving Pygmies 8 An African Island Jam 9 Drinking Bananas 0 Cure Your Cold - Find Turtles, Not Lepers = Strut Like a Sapeur q Christmas in May w Taste the Saltiest Water e Rap Like an Egyptian r Eat Monkeys (or Chicken) t Buy Recycled... Everything y Plant a Tree u Hop to a Hip Hop Festival i Rub Termites on Your Face o Get Buried in a Fish p Wordsmith with the Best [ Bissau Beats ] See the Giant Lady

AFRICA MON AMOUR 53 UNDERREPORTED, AWESOME THINGS TO TRY, SEE, DO, HEAR, EAT & LEARN ABOUT IN AFRICA’S 53 COUNTRIES

www.colorsmagazine.com www.good.isAFRICA MON AMOUR 53 UNDERREPORTED, AWESOME THINGS TO TRY, SEE, DO, HEAR, EAT & LEARN ABOUT IN AFRICA’S 53 COUNTRIES 21

AFRICA MON AMOUR FRESH OFF A WORLD CUP CRAZE, THE WORLD IS BLOWING VUVUZELAS AND SINGING K’NAAN. BUT WHAT ELSE IS GOING ON IN AFRICA? WELL, A LOT, AND TONS OF IT IS PRETTY AWESOME.

TAKE AN UNCANNY TRIP WITH US AND DISCOVER WHAT'S HIP, MOVING, AND FUNKY ON THIS INNOVATIVE CONTINENT. LEARN ABOUT LOCAL ARTISTS, ACTIVITIES, STREET SNACKS, FESTIVALS AND MORE. THROUGH OUR NETWORK OF CORRESPONDENTS, PHOTOGRAPHERS AND TRAVELERS, WE BRING YOU THIS MINI GUIDE, HIGHLIGHTING JUST A FEW OF THE INGENIOUS THINGS GOING ON AFRICA. HERE WE GO!

53STOPS & COUNTRIES


1 The Desert Marathon 2 Sneak Across Borders 3 Voodoo on Display 4 Meet Miss HIV, Stigma-Free 5 Catch a Film Festival 6 Forgiveness Radio 7 Preserving Pygmies 8 An African Island Jam 9 Drinking Bananas 0 Cure Your Cold - Find Turtles, Not Lepers = Strut Like a Sapeur q Christmas in May w Taste the Saltiest Water

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6AngolaApplying for a visa for Angola should take 9 days, but in reality it can take several weeks—and you still might not be granted one. If you’re in a rush, just try to cross illegally from Botswana. Head towards Ruacana, Namibia. Before you get to Ruacana, follow signs for the Angolan border and Ruacana Falls. At the Namibian border post (Angolan Border post on your right) tell border guards you’re going to Ruacana Falls. When they raise the barrier, drive until you get to a car park. Get out and follow the path (there’s a fence on your left). Walk up the hill. On your right you’ll see a low wire. Step over it and you’re in Angola.

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6Burkina FasoEvery two years (the odd-numbered ones) over half a million people descend on Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso’s capital, for the Pan-African Film and Television Festival (FESPACO). The festival, which has been running since 1969, is one of Africa’s most important. Ouagadougou also boasts more cinemas than any other West African city. The next festival will be held from February 26 to March 5, 2011.

www.fespaco.bf

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6BeninOuidah, Benin, is the spiritual center of voodoo. The Musée d’Histoire d’Ouidah links the history of the religion to the slave trade with an exhibition of artifacts and pictures. It’s open every day from 8am to 12:30pm and then again from 3pm to 6:30pm. The gift shop sells local folk art, including sculptures, textiles, and puppets. There’s also an annual Voodoo Festival held on 10 January where devotees of the cult of 'vodouns', ('spirits' in the Fon language) continue to practice the spells, chants, and mystic divinations of their faith.

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6BurundiIn 2002, a group of journalists in conflict-ridden Burundi founded Radio Isanganiro as a peace building initiative. The station aims to offer clear, objective reporting by a multi-ethnic staff. It encourages listener interaction with phone-in programs as well as programs like Forgive Me, in which listeners can express regret for past actions. The broadcasts can be heard on the radio and Internet in several languages, including French, Swahili, and Kirundi.

www.isanganiro.org

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6AlgeriaFor the last 34 years, the Saharawi people have lived in refugee camps in Tindouf, Algeria, displaced by land disputes from their native Western Sahara across the border. The Sahara Marathon, held each year in Algeria, is an international sporting event to help the Saharawi people raise awareness and financial support. In addition to the race there are other events, including a children’s marathon

www.saharamarathon.org

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6BotswanaNearly 70% of HIV-infected people in the world live and die in Sub-Saharan Africa. The Miss HIV Stigma Free Pageant is held each year in Botswana to raise awareness of the disease and reduce the stigma attached to being HIV positive. Botswana was the first country to hold such a pageant and there are now similar events in Uganda, Nepal, and Russia. Miss HIV the film follows two women who enter the pageant.

www.misshiv.com

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6CameroonAsk an anthropologist and you’ll be told that a pygmy is any ethnic group in which adult males are under 150 centimeters tall. While there are pygmy communities in various parts of Asia, the best known are those in central Africa. Fondaf Bipindi works with Bagyeli pygmies in Bipindi, Cameroon, to help preserve their culture and develop local education and healthcare systems. The village of Bipindi needs volunteers and donations.

Fondaf Bipindi B.P. Box 8358, Yaounde, Cameroon Tel. +237 903380

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6C.A.R.In the Central African Republic banana wine is a popular usually homemade beverage sold on the side of the road. To make banana wine you’ll need ripe bananas, millet, Rauvolfia Caffra bark extract and water. Peel bananas, sdd to water, and boil. Cool mixture in clay pots for up to 5 days. Add more water and filter. Add millet porridge (germinate grain, grind into flour, cook with water). Add bark extract (washed, cut, boiled, filtered). Add to banana mixture 12 hours before drinking. Enjoy.

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6CongoSapeurs are Congolese men who believe strongly in the importance of fashion. There are some basic rules to follow: always look elegant, don’t wear more than three colors at a time, and add accessories like walking sticks and cigars. In the '80s they formed an official organization: Société des Ambienceurs et des Personnes Elégants. If you need a fancy outfit while in the Congo, find a sapeur—many rent out their luxury clothing to make ends meet and purchase new clothes. A designer suit costs about $25 per day.

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6Chad Karkanji, a plant-based beverage popular in Chad, is said to help cure cold and flu symptoms. To make your own, you’ll need hibiscus flowers, sugar, ginger root or cinnamon, and cloves. Get a saucepan and fill it with water. Add flowers and ginger or cinnamon. Boil, then reduce heat. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add sugar and simmer for 5 more minutes. Serve hot or cold.

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6D.R.C.For the roughly 5.5 million followers of the Kimbanguist church, instead of December 25, Christmas falls on May 25. Founded in 1921, this branch of Christianity is largely puritanical and rejects witchcraft, alcohol, and polygamy. Head to Kinshasa, the capital of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, on May 25 for a massive celebration. For more information check online.

www.kimbanguisme.net

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6Cape Verde When the full moon rises over São Vicente in August each year, folks gather for the Festival de Música da Baía das Gatas. One of Africa’s largest music festivals, since 1983 the weekend-long beachside celebration has attracted both local and international talent. Check your calendar and head to Baía das Gatas or find out more online.

www.cmsv.cv

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6Comoros The tiny island of Chissioua Ouénéfou, off the coast of Mohéli, used to be a leper colony. Today it’s a marine reserve where visitors can see the endangered green sea turtle. Getting to the island is a bit tricky: catch a plane or boat to Fomboni, Mohéli. Then take a taxi-brousse from Fomboni to Nioumachoua (you’re still on Mohéli). Now find someone who can take you across to Chissioua Ouénéfou and negotiate the fee. Good luck!

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6Djibouti For the many of us who are avid fans of geographical depressions, a visit to the lowest point in Africa (and the third lowest in the world) is highly recommended. Lac Assal is 156 meters below sea level and boasts the saltiest water in the world—making any swimmers' eyes sting. The roads are bad so you’ll need a 4-wheel drive and a lot of driving experience. The lake is off limits during the summer, though, as temperatures breach 122 degrees Fahrenheit and can melt your car’s tires. On the way one can see tectonic plates meet at the Devil’s Cauldron.

YOU ARE HEREA – D 1–1453STOPS & COUNTRIES

≥ Africa has 14% of the world's population, over one billion people.

≥ About 44% of the African population is under 15 years old, making it the youngest population in the world.

≥ Over 1,000 languages are spoken throughout the African continent, meaning there's about one language for every one million people.

WHAT TO DO?


90% OF ALL VUVUZELAS ARE MADE IN CHINAThis one's not. It's an authentic, portable, three-piece noisemaker direct from South Africa. Get one for your next sporting event. Who cares if it's not the World Cup?

www.vuvuzelas.comx

THESE ARE MY TWO TOP SELLING DVDSShopkeeper Speaking about Nollywood films Lagos, Nigeria


THERE IS MORE TO AFRICA THAN SAFARI AND CIVIL WAR… IT'S WHERE DANCE MUSIC BEGAN!Xander Ferreira Founding member of Gazelle South Africa

Combining funk, reggae, disco, '80s electropop and traditional African melodies, the band Gazelle cranks out some good sh%t. Dubbed LIMPOP, their genre of authentic Afrikan elektronic dance music takes its name from South Africa’s Limpopo Province, where Xander Ferreira grew up.

www.yogazelle.com

Photo: Yann Gross For Colors 76: Teenagers Photo: Chris Saunders

ANYONE IS WELCOME TO JOIN THE SKATEBOARD UNION Douglas Member of the Skateboard Union Kampala, Uganda

Rumor has is that this is the first skateboard ramp in East Africa.Jackson Mubiri, President of the Uganda Skateboard Union, started building ramps three years ago. The idea is to bring the sport into schools, and anyone is welcome to join. “We want to challenge more kids and have a national team,” says Douglas, 20, Kampala, Uganda.


53STOPS & COUNTRIES

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6Equatorial GuineaMonkey used to be a popular food in Equatorial Guinea but now it’s illegal. That doesn’t mean you can’t buy it, just that it’s too expensive for most people. Try kansiyé, a popular chicken (or other meat) stew in a peanut butter sauce instead. Mix peanut butter, garlic, thyme, ground cloves, onion, tomato sauce, salt and pepper and cook with meat.

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6GabonHip hop is so popular in Gabon that it was used in the 2009 presidential election campaign. So it’s fitting that each year hip hop artists descend upon Libreville, Gabon, for the Gabao Hip Hop Festival. The event is organized by the cultural association Afric’Action, which operates in several African nations including Gabon, Chad and Cameroon. For more information contact Afric’Action.

Afric’Action BP 14689 Libreville. Tel.+241 713583 www.festivalgabao.com

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6EritreaIf you’re in Asmara, Eritrea, head downtown to the Medebar market, which has an entire area devoted to craftsmen making recycled goods. Watch artisans make sandals out of used tires, buckets out of scrap corrugated iron and countless other objects fashioned from trash and human ingenuity.

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6GambiaTermite mounds are made from chewed wood, saliva, feces and soil. There are lots of termites in the Gambia and mounds up to two meters are a common feature of the landscape. They’re a problem when they infest houses because mounds are very hard and require hacking at to break. On the upside, termite mound clay is a mosquito repellent. Simply rub on your skin and enjoy a mosquito-free walk through the Gambian countryside.

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6EgyptPrincess Emmanuelle (formerly Emmanuelle Amira) claims to be Egypt’s first female rap artist. about love, war, peace and pain and has released several albums. She is just one of the rising stars of Egypt’s underground music culture, centered at the Sawy Center on Zamlek Island in Cairo. The center houses countless performances each year as well as 30 festivals. Find out what’s on. www.culturewheel.com

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6EthiopiaIn the last 50 years Ethiopia has lost 98% of its forests. The Ethiopian Heritage Trust is working to reforest areas of the Entoto mountain range with eucalyptus trees. The organization’s volunteers have planted almost 200,000 trees in the area over the last year. To volunteer or offer a donation contact The Ethiopian Heritage Trust.

The Ethiopian Heritage Trust PO Box 12014, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Tel. +251 1 158 802 ethiopiaheritagetrust.org

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6Ghana“As you were in life, you shall be in death,” says Paa Joe, a carpenter from Accra, Ghana, who will construct a personalized casket for you in a day. One of his finest coffins was in the form of a large sardine, built for the village fisherman. Fixed price for any coffin: US$1,200. To order or to apply for an apprenticeship in his workshop, send your CV.

Paa Joe Carpentry Works PO Box 71 Teshie, Accra, Ghana.

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6Guinea-Bissau There are around 10 ethnic groups who call Guinea-Bissau home. During Carnival, the country’s biggest celebration, each group showcases the best of its culture. Costume materials include leaves, shells and cow horns. Although the four day long party precedes Lent, it doesn’t have much to do with the Catholic festivity since 90% of the population follows other religious beliefs. The costumes (a prize is awarded for the best) are great, but the music is even better.

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6LesothoThere are about 100,000 Basotho ponies in Lesotho, used by citizens to navigate the country’s very rugged terrain. Tourists also use them for trekking, as a pony is much better than a 4-wheel drive. Just 37 miles from the capital Maseru, Malealea Lodge offers the chance to go pony trekking and supports the local community through various educational and HIV projects.

www.malealea.co.ls

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6Ivory Coast Covering an area of 30,000 square meters in the country’s administrative capital, Yamoussoukra, the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace is the largest church in the world. It looks a lot like the Vatican’s Basilica of Saint Peter. The church was built at a cost of US$300 million in the late '80s and is lavishly furnished with Italian marble and French stained glass. Look for the tall white building—you can see it from just about anywhere in the city.

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6LiberiaAfter 14 years of civil war, in June 2004 Liberia hosted its first soccer match in the national stadium, where some 14,000 displaced people lived during the conflict. Although the war ended in 2003, it took a while for authorities to prep the stadium for a match. Find out when the next match is on.

www.liberiansoccer.com

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6GuineaThere are around 6,900 living languages in the world. French is the official language of Guinea but Susu, Mandinka and Pular are also widely spoken. The Festival des Arts du Conte Kiini Afrika celebrates the art of oration and is usually held in the last week of April in various locations throughout the country, during which wordsmiths of many kinds can be found roaming the streets. To take part or just turn up contact the tourist board.

www.guinee.gov.gn

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6Kenya150 people regularly comb the beaches in Kenya’s Lamu area collecting waste (flip-flops, tires and plastic) that has washed up on shore, which is then recycled and used to make things like bags and jewelry. This type of waste is a threat to marine life, so collectors are both cleaning up and earning an income. So far they’ve collected over 132,000 pounds, or 175,000 flip-flops. Buy items online, send in your old flip flops or volunteer.

Uniqueco Designs P.O. Box 15565, Nairobi 00503, Kenya Tel. +254 202700534 www.uniqueco-designs.com

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6LibyaThere are thousands of feral camels in rural Libya. The camels and the bad roads mean that driving at night is extremely dangerous—and Libyans have a penchant for speeding. Car accidents are the country's number one cause of death. If you were allowed to travel independently in the country, you could rent a car with camel-sensing radar. Since you’re not (you need a guide with you at all times), make sure they take this optional extra—one less road hazard.

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e Rap Like an Egyptian r Eat Monkeys (or Chicken) t Buy Recycled... Everything y Plant a Tree u Hop to a Hip Hop Festival i Rub Termites on Your Face o Get Buried in a Fish p Wordsmith with the Best [ Bissau Beats ] See the Giant Lady \ Save Fish & Buy Necklaces a Trek on a Pony s Soccer for Peace d Use Camel Radar

≥ Somalia has recently had its first ever debit card introduced. Somalis can use it at over 250 locations.

≥ In many African countries, land-mine detection rats are used to find forgotten mines from past conflicts.

≥ A giant crack in the Ethiopian desert is expected to become a new ocean. The crack opened in 2005 and is up to 20 feet in some spots!

YOU ARE HERE

WHAT TO DO?

www.colorsmagazine.com www.good.isAFRICA MON AMOUR 53 UNDERREPORTED, AWESOME THINGS TO TRY, SEE, DO, HEAR, EAT & LEARN ABOUT IN AFRICA’S 53 COUNTRIES =-

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CLOTHES ARE THE WEAPONSHéctor Mediavilla Sabaté Speaking about Congolese Sapeurs Democratic Republic of the Congo

Photo: Hector Mediavilla Sabate For Colors 64: Lust

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BUILD CARS OUT OF ANYTHINGRecycled toy vehicles are a common site in Africa, and fashioning them is regarded as a favorite pastime in many countries. This toy car, made by a child in Mozambique, is crafted from four canned meat containers and an old oil bottle.

WHY PAY FOR A SOCCER BALL? Make your own jula ball! Stick some sponges, paper or cloth into a plastic bag and shape it into a ball. Wrap cord around the ball, dividing it into quarters and securing the cord with a backward stitch each time the lines cross. Repeat this about 20 times. Tie the chord off, cut off the loose ends, and go play!

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53STOPS & COUNTRIES YOU ARE HERE

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6Malawi42% of people in Malawi are illiterate, making radio very important for the spread of information. In 2006, Chimwemwe Ncozana founded Radio Yako, the first Internet radio station in the country. The radio is non-profit and non-commercial so donations are accepted. www.radioyako.com

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6MauritiusSega is the national music and dance form of Mauritius. To dance, grab a partner. The men stand on the dance floor. Girls wiggle towards them waving a handkerchief as an invitation to dance. Then, at some point in every Sega song, the singer will say “en bas” (down): Bend your knees, don’t move your feet, and energetically move the rest of your body to the rhythm. Clothing tip for the women: no mini-skirts (you’ll end up showing off more than your dancing skills).

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6MaliRencontres de Bamako, the African Photography Biennial and the largest photo exhibition on the continent, takes place in Mali’s capital Bamako. The last exhibition focused on borders and explored themes of sexuality, albinism, and civil war. Featured photographers included Pieter Hugo, Karel Prinsloo, and Baudouin Mouanda. For information about the next exhibition check online.

www.rencontres-bamako.com

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6Morocco Sand dunes can move up to 100 meters per year (and by the way you can also find them on Venus and Mars). Erg Chebbi, near Merzouga, boasts Morocco’s biggest sand dunes, which can reach 150 meters in height. Take a ride on a camel, a quad, or try your hand at sand boarding. Everything you need is available for hire.

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6MadagascarMadagascan corpses are laid in their tombs in woven straw mats. After seven years, relatives dig them up for famadihana, the turning of the bones ritual. The corpse is the guest of honor at a huge party that lasts a few days. There is feasting, drinking and dancing… with the corpse. The old mat is believed to have special fertility powers: pieces are torn off by young women who hope it will bring them many children. These rituals take place around the country from June to November.

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6MauritaniaThe khaima is a tent traditionally used by the Moors, the nomadic people of Mauritania. They are found in urban and rural areas as housing, restaurants and tourist accommodations. To build your own you’ll need a large rectangle of hand-woven wool (camel or sheep) up to 12 meters long and some poles. The innermost layer is often made of various fabrics giving the ceiling a pleasing patchwork effect. Sleep in one at Bab Sahara.

Bab Sahara BP 59 Atar, Mauritania Tel. +222 6473966 www.bab-sahara.com

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6MozambiqueThe average age of a bride in Mozambique is 20.3 years. To see a wedding in Maputo, head over to the office where civil weddings are celebrated on Avenue Julius Nyerere. It’s the flamboyant white building with pillars. Stand outside on a Saturday morning and wait for the couples to arrive.

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6Niger The largest ancient rock carvings (petroglyphs) in the world can be found in Dabous, Niger. Thought to be around 10,000 years old, these carvings of two life-size giraffes were probably made in the sandstone with flint implements. The biggest of the giraffes is over five meters tall. They can’t be seen from the ground—you need to climb onto the higher rock and look down.

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6Sao Tome & PrincipeThe highest point in the country, at 2,024 meters above sea level, is the Pico de Sao Tome on Sao Tome. Climbing all the way to the top takes between two and three days. The hike takes you through a tropical jungle in which there are 100 plants unique to the island. There is also unique fauna, including 15 types of birds. A guide is recommended.

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6Nigeria Nigeria’s film industry is worth around $250 million annually and generates well over 500 films a year. Nollywood prefers to shoot films on location rather than in studios, however there is one large studio—Studio Tinapa in Calabar—and it’s open to the public. You can get there by car, boat, or helicopter: tinapa.com.ng. Find out more about Nollywood by watching the documentary This is Nollywood. www.thisisnollywood.com

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6SenegalMaster Nomila (previously Lamine Gueye) is one of the few rappers to sing in Wolof, a language spoken by over three million people in West Africa. Although Senegal has a large number of hip hop and rap artists (around 5,000), only a handful have been successful. See some local hip hop or take part in a workshop at the Complexe Culturel Yengoulene. Complexe Culturel Yengoulene Nord Foire 7+8, B.P. F 13060, Dakar Yoff / Senegal Tel.: +221 338207626 www.yengoulene.com

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6NamibiaAlthough Namibia doesn’t have many conservation areas, it is the only country whose constitution provides for environmental protection. Article 95 of the constitution states that there should be “utilization of living natural resources on a sustainable basis for the benefit of all Namibians, both present and future.” Feel constitutional and visit the Namib Huib Plateau Park where you can see 31 species of animal, including cheetahs and spotted hyenas.

www.huibpark.com

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6RwandaThere are only 600 mountain gorillas (Gorilla gorilla beringei) left in the area around the Virunga volcanoes. To see them you’ll need a permit from the Office Rwandaise du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux. Permits are limited; only 120 visitors are admitted each day. While you’re there, check out Dian Fossey’s grave. The US zoologist responsible for saving the species from extinction was killed by poachers angered by her conservation efforts.

www.rwandatourism.com

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6SeychellesThe Coco de Mer tree produces the heaviest seeds in the world, weighing in at an average of 44 pounds each. It only grows in Praslin and Curieuse—two islands of the Seychelles—and is used as an ingredient in cosmetics. To see the tree, enter the Valle de Mai, a UNESCO world heritage site on Praslin. If you’re very lucky you might also see the endangered Seychelles Black Parrot. Take a ferry from Mahe to Praslin, then a taxi to the park.

M – S 29 – 42

f Dance with the Dead g Internet Radio h Our Largest Exibition j Build an Urban Tent k Swag to Sega l Sandboard Away ; Catch a Wedding ' Spot Some Cheetahs z Climb for Carvings x Become a Nollywood Star c Gawk at Gorillas v Take a Hike, Bub b Sing in Wolof n Wear Heavy Make-up

WHAT TO DO?

≥ SEACOM, an 8,500 mile undersea fiber-optic cable, recently connected much of Africa to the Internet.

≥ As of March 2010, Nigeria had over 1.2 million Facebook users, making it among the top three most visited websites by Nigerians.

≥ The Rwandan government has launched a broadband (WiBro) facility in the capital Kigali to make it Africa’s first "hot spot" capital.

www.colorsmagazine.com www.good.isAFRICA MON AMOUR 53 UNDERREPORTED, AWESOME THINGS TO TRY, SEE, DO, HEAR, EAT & LEARN ABOUT IN AFRICA’S 53 COUNTRIES yt

THIS PHOTO SPEAKS FOR ITSELF90% of Zimbabwean adults are literate, one of the highest percentages in Africa. But for much of the past decade there has been a ban on private newspapers, and The Zimbabwean was founded in 2005 after journalists who criticized the government were driven into exile. In response, in 2008 the government imposed a 55% luxury import duty on all newspapers produced outside the country, making The Zimbabwean unaffordable to the average citizen. The paper’s 2009 "Trillion Dollar Campaign" uses Zimbabwe’s trillion dollar note, which given the country’s highly devalued currency is cheaper than paper, to promote freedom of speech.

www.thezimbabwean.co.uk

Campaign: TBWA Hunt Lascaris, Johannesburg; Art Directors: Shelley Smoler & Nadja Lossgott; Copywriter: Raphael Basckin; Creative Director: Nicholas Hulley; Executive Creative Director: Damon Stapleton, Photographers: Chloe Coetsee, Des Ellis, & Michael Meyersfeld

I LIKE TO WEAR SKIRTSThumelo Nthekenyane Member of Smarteez fashion crew Soweto, South Africa

The Smarteez are a crew of fashionistas in Soweto, South Africa. Morphing vintage with futuristic, their trademarks include self-tailored tops, grandpa's bowties, vintage pants, huge nerdish goggles called stunners, World War II waistcoats and colorful socks pulled up knee-high.

Photo: Chris Saunders For Colors 76: Teenagers

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FOR THOSE TRYING TO GET RICH OR BRING BACK A LOST LOVER, THE LOA AWAITThe Loa, meaning ‘Divine Spirits’, are voodoo spirits embodied by a doll. This one was made in a market in the tiny southern African nation of Lesotho.

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THIS CAN CURE EVERYTHINGMaybe that's an exaggeration. We're not really sure. This herbal remedy supposedly cures pretty much everything. The laundry list of fixable ailments can be found on the back of the bottle.

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53STOPS & COUNTRIES

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6SomaliaEnjoy the fastest citizenship process on earth. Head to the market in almost any Somali town and ask where you can buy a passport. As Somalia has not had an effective central government in control of the country since 1991, passports are a free-for-all game. Last we checked all it took was about $35 and after a few minutes, you’re a Somali citizen. There’s no better souvenir than that!

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6SwazilandMarulas are round, yellow fruits that grow in southern Africa and are rich in vitamin C. The fruits are also thought to boost sex drive and fertility. A beer and liquer are both made from Marulas. The Marula Festival kicks off each year in mid-February at Ebuhleni. The royal family takes part and there’s a lot of singing, dancing, and drinking of buganu (marula beer).

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6South AfricaHermanus is the best place in the world to see whales from land. During whale season (June to November) you can see southern right whales who come to the area to breed. If you have trouble spotting the whales, don’t worry, the town has a whale crier. Whenever Pasika Noboba sees a whale he blows on a horn to let everyone know. There is also a festival featuring music and whale-watching events. To find out more, go online.

www.whalefestival.co.za

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6TanzaniaCheck out the cartoons by Tanzanian cartoonist Gado (Godfrey Mwampembwa). His cartoons aren’t just amusing, they look at social, cultural and political issues. Regularly published in international publications including Courier International and New African, he’s an advocate for free expression. He has published three collections: Abunuwasi, Democrazy!, The End of an Error and The beginning of a New One. See his work online. www.gado.co.ke

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6Sierra LeoneTry hitchhiking, western Africa style, along the newly built $54 million Masiaka-Bo Highway. The road, which opened in May 2010 and connects Freetown with the southeastern part of the country, boasts footpaths for your traveling delight. But don't do that dorky American thing where you stand there looking desperate with your thumb in the air. Nope, in these parts hitchhiking etiquette is much more lax: Just stand there, arm extended and with your palm lazily hanging down. Soon you'll be cruising for free at 80 km/h on Africa's chic new thoroughfare.

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6SudanIf you’ve got an old soda bottle, a pole, and a piece of string, you’ve got hours of entertainment lined up. Fill the bottle with some dirt. Tie one end of the string around the top of the bottle and the other to the pole. Players stand opposite each other and hit the bottle to each other using their hands—a popular game to play during breaks at school.

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6TogoIf you want to see dried monkeys, bats, and crocodiles, head over to Lome’s Fetish and Voodoo market, the largest in the world. Guides will help you follow in the footsteps of traditional healers who scour the market for ingredients. The admission fee is variable, so haggle. Consultations and souvenirs are also available.

% 6Uganda

By law, Ugandan banknotes can’t portray leaders. In May 2010 a new set was released. The 50,000-shilling note features shields, the 10,000 pots, and the 2,000 a neck ornament (this is the first time a note of this denomination has been printed). When spending your Ugandan shillings you will be reassured to know they’re the first African currency with SPARK (an ultra-modern optical security feature).

6ZambiaFootballs are made from available materials in Zambia—usually rags, paper, or packaging materials—stuffed in a plastic bag and bound with string. A store-bought regulation ball would cost US$40, or one month of the average worker’s wages.

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6TunisiaYou need to be older than 18 to own a falcon in El Haouaria, where almost every family trains falcons or sparrow hawks for hunting. Each year the city hosts the Festival of the Sparrow Hawk in May or June. Bird trainers congregate for the four-day event to compete for the title of fastest bird.

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6ZimbabweMopane worms are a cheap and excellent source of protein (they’re around 60% protein). They can be fried or boiled when fresh. Since they can only be harvested for three weeks each year, most are dried for later use. They can be served with atchar (a chili sauce). Available at markets and roadside stands.

And that's it! All 53! We hope you enjoyed accompanying us though this unique journey. Discover other extraordinary things happening in the world and share your own online at colorsmagazine.com.

S –Z 43 – 53

m Hitchhike a New Highway , Pick Up a Passport . Watch for Whales / Play Dirt Bottle ! That’s Some Sexy Beer @ Read Social Cartoons # Buy Dried Bats $ Behold the Bird Race % Spend High-Tech Cash ^ Make a Football & Learn to Eat Fried Worms

Who We Are & Where We're From

YOU ARE HERE

≥ Mobile phone use is growing faster in Africa than anywhere else in the world. There are over 53 million mobile phone users on the continent, and Uganda has become the first African country with more mobiles than land line telephones.

≥ Sierra Leone's first hydro-power dam, almost 40 years in the making, was switched on in late 2009. It provides enough stable electricity to supply all of Sierra Leone, with some leftover energy for export.

≥ The Gautrain, Africa's first high- speed rail line, launched in South Africa in June, 2010.

Colors Creative Director Erik Ravelo Kiré, Havana

Art Director & Designer Joshua Levi, New York City

Writers Carlos Mustienes, Madrid Giuliana Rando, Wollongong Benjamin Joffe-Walt, Johannesburg Joshua Levi, New York City

Photo Editors Chris Saunders, Johannesburg Mauro Bedoni, Padova

Project Manager Giulia DeMeo, Venice

Concept Chris Saunders, Johannesburg Joshua Levi, New York City Carlos Mustienes, Madrid

Thank You Anna Grassi Barbara Soalheiro Angela Quintavalle Erica Fusaro Phoebe Mutetsi Safeeyah Kharsany C.M. Koseman Jonah Goodman Juan Pablo Gallón Salazar Cameron SInclair & Co. @ Architecture for Humanity Bill Zimmerman @ www.27months.com Smarteez: Kepi & Thumelo

Special Thank You Zach Frechette & Co. @ Good Magazine

Very Special Thank You Laura Pollini

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COLORS IS A MAGAZINE ABOUT THE REST OF THE WORLDUsing conceptual design, visual language, and creative writing, COLORS' themes range between the serious, such as ecology, violence, monoculture and HIV to the outright frivolous, such as shopping, fashion, and toys.

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